How to lay a brick foundation with your own hands. How to make a brick foundation

The brick foundation is a prefabricated structure erected on dry and stable soils with a low groundwater level for one-story and light buildings. It does not tolerate the effects of frost heaving and has average strength and durability, its estimated service life is 25 years, when using high quality products - no more than 50. The advantages include the ability to create a tape of any shape and repair when a separate section is destroyed, a good combination of rigidity material and flexibility of the system and the absence of the need to use special equipment, with the use of competent guidance, all work can be done by yourself.

The laying of a monolithic slab in this case is not suitable; when choosing a brick, you can build a columnar or tape base of a deep or shallow foundation. The first variety is considered almost a classic, from small-piece material it is easiest to create square or rectangular supports for light extensions, verandas, baths and sheds. The advantages of this option include low costs and the ability to place columns in any desired place, the disadvantages are high soil requirements, weight limit, lack of a basement, basement and blind area.

The strip foundation is selected only according to the results of the analysis of the soil; with a strong risk of frost heaving, it is laid below the freezing level; with a high GWL, it is better to refuse it. The standard scheme includes sand and concrete pads, a tape directly under all supporting structures with backfilling around and a mandatory blind area. In the house you can make a basement or basement.

The choice of masonry material

Taking into account the expected weight and moisture loads, white silicate and red slotted types are not suitable for the construction of the base of the building. Used products can only be used if they are of good quality, namely, the whole shape, the absence of cracks and chips and acceptable resistance to moisture. From the fight or individual parts, you can only make a backfill under the sole.

Given these requirements, red solid brick fired at high temperatures (but not refractory) with a strength grade within M150-M300, frost resistance of 35 cycles and above, and water absorption of not more than 20% has suitable characteristics. The best performance is observed for clinker, but due to its high cost, its use is not economically feasible. The ideal option is to buy a burnt batch of an ordinary solid block.

Technology nuances

When building a brick foundation with your own hands, measures are taken to remove moisture from it and strengthen the masonry. The mandatory conditions include backfilling and tamping of a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 15 cm, waterproofing and replacing part of the soil around the structures with fine gravel or broken materials. When arranging the tape around the entire perimeter of the building, it is recommended to fill in a concrete blind area, ideally insulated with foam.

The frequency of reinforcement depends on the expected loads. The minimum diameter of the longitudinal rods is 6-8 mm, approaching corners or breaks is 30 mm.

When erecting a shallow tape, at least 2 belts with double rods, securely closed with mortar, should be made, the thickness of the seams in such rows will increase to 20 cm. Due to the high risk of corrosion, preference is given to composite rather than metal reinforcement. The recessed bases are additionally reinforced with a mesh. When in doubt about their abilities, laying and reinforcement are trusted by specialists.

When choosing waterproofing, polymer grades are preferred as more durable; when doing work on your own, it is worth spending money on a sprayed grade. Protection of columnar supports or tape is carried out without exception, but not earlier than after the removal of building moisture from the mixture. Backfilling is carried out carefully, avoiding damage to the waterproofing layer, after holding the time specified in the instructions for mastics, glue for roofing material or primer. At this stage, only fine-grained materials are used.

Each row is checked for deviation from the level, the allowable limit is 2 mm per 1 running meter. The solution is mixed on the basis of Portland cement at least M400 in proportion with quartz sand 1:3. Difficulties in building such a foundation with your own hands arise when controlling the thickness of the seams; for inexperienced workers, the masonry will be uneven. On the underground part of the structure, the simplest grouting method is chosen - the composition completely fills the space between adjacent products, all protruding excesses are removed with a trowel, the seam is slightly rubbed with a brush. In the basement, about 10-15 mm are left empty in order to simplify the finish.

Laying a columnar base

The cross section and shape of the supports are selected taking into account the design area of ​​the building: for a light one-story building, a square of 38 × 38 cm is enough (provided that products of a standard size and half-brick masonry are used), if necessary, they are made rectangular (38 × 51). To support the partitions, 23 × 38 cm is enough, when erecting a two-story house - at least 51 × 51. Brick foundation supports are placed at all corners of the building, including outlets for internal walls and along the perimeter of all capital structures with a step of no more than 2 m. After drawing up the diagram, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe supports is checked taking into account the expected weight loads and bearing capacity of the soil.

Construction work is carried out in the following sequence:

• On a leveled area, marking is carried out with checking the diagonal of each support, stakes are hammered in the corners, the boundary of the outer perimeter of the columnar foundation is indicated by a tightly stretched rope.
• Pits are dug, taking into account the selected size of the supports and the margin for filling and the need to lay the pillow.
• The bottom is leveled and covered with a 10-15 cm layer of sand with careful compaction and 10 cm of crushed stone.
• The flooring of waterproofing materials is carried out - at least 2 layers.
• A piece of durable plastic or wire mesh with a rod diameter of 3-5 mm is placed on top of the roofing material and 10 cm of lean concrete is poured. It is allowed to start laying no earlier than 3 days later.
• Support assembly: products are placed with dressing on the DSP and reinforcement of rows every 30 cm (a mesh with a wire diameter of 5-6 mm is left in the seam of every fourth). The columns are brought out 20 cm above the zero mark, reinforcement is laid in the cavity formed inside (if any) and concrete is poured.
• At the end of the work and the solution dries, waterproofing is started, the red brick columns are easiest to cover with a sprayed primer or coat with hot bituminous mastics, in extreme cases they are wrapped with roofing material.
• The level is checked, all supports must be placed in the same plane.
• After the final set of strength, backfilling is performed, it is recommended to replace the soil with crushed stone, blast-furnace slag or broken building materials.

Step-by-step instructions for building a brick strip on your own

At the preparatory stage, the width and depth of the foundation are checked, the amount of reinforcement, mortar and masonry products is calculated, marking and earthworks are carried out. The dimensions of the trench are selected with a margin.

Stages include:

• Careful leveling of the bottom of the trench and backfilling with sand. The minimum thickness of the cushion under the strip base after ramming of bulk materials is 15 cm. In the absence of a vibrating plate, the sand is compacted with water.
• Waterproofing flooring with edges set on future walls.
• Pouring reinforced concrete cushion, suspension of work for 2-3 days. This item is optional, but if there is any doubt about the ground, it is better to do it.
• Masonry - starting from the corners, according to a pre-selected scheme, with dressing of products on each row and reinforcement after 2-3. The seams are cleaned of excess immediately, the strip foundation is left until cured for 2-3 weeks.
• Insulation of walls from moisture with rolled or sprayed types, including part of the basement.
• Backfilling the trench with small gravel, arranging the blind area.

Regardless of the type of brick foundation, it is allowed to start erecting load-bearing walls only after the masonry mortar has hardened, the installation of blocks or other materials is carried out after waterproofing the upper part of the pillars or tape. The final stage is carried out after the complete removal of building moisture from the masonry. With a high risk of frost heaving, the feasibility of insulating structures with foam is evaluated.

When planning the construction of a structure on a backyard territory, each owner acquires raw materials based on his capabilities, the functional purpose of the structure. But the main criterion is the long service life and reliability of the future building.

A brick foundation is an affordable option that you can build yourself. Although its installation will require a lot of effort, time and patience, the result will be impressive.

Let us consider in more detail the aspects of creating such a foundation.

Thematic material:

All the pros and cons of a brick base

Among the main advantages of such a foundation, it is worth highlighting:

1. Formwork installation is not required.
2. Possibility of laying by hand.
3. Choice of tape shapes.
4. Reducing the consumption of concrete, which means saving money.
5. Compatibility with other types of materials.
6. Easily repairable.
7. No need to involve special equipment, a team of workers.
8. Good level of thermal insulation.
9. If you perform high-quality waterproofing, then in terms of service life it will not be inferior to a concrete tape or monolith.

But it is worth considering the cons:

1. Great labor intensity of work. Hand laying bricks takes a lot of time and effort.
2. Mandatory reinforcement required. Otherwise, its service life is reduced significantly.
3. Brick has a high level of hygroscopicity. Due to this, its frost resistance is reduced.

In addition, this type of foundation can only be built on a stable piece of land with a low level of groundwater.

In some cases, it can be installed on moving soil, but on condition that a reinforced concrete foundation is prepared under the bottom.

For which buildings can or cannot be used

Depending on the complexity of the design, a columnar or tape type is used.

It is impossible to lay such a foundation under two-story, three-story houses, where the walls will be made of brick or monolithic concrete.

There are no restrictions on the choice of material for cladding the facade of a building.

Choosing the right types of bricks

Best suited red burnt full-bodied (ceramic). If we are talking about the construction of a furnace, then fireclay (refractory).

Most often, these types of raw materials are taken, because they:

• have a clay base;
• resistant to moisture;
• durable;
• durable.

They have no obvious shortcomings.

But it is important to pay attention to the quality of the purchased material. If the raw material is burnt out or has not survived the allotted time, it will take on a dull scarlet color and will be with concave edges, and will begin to crumble over time, which will lead to the destruction of the foundation belt.

Clinker is suitable for facade cladding. It is resistant to any manifestations of the external environment, has been serving for decades, but its price is quite high.

White silicate brick should be used exclusively for finishing the basement of buildings made of block, wood. Despite its strength, it has a high hygroscopicity, a low level of frost resistance. The situation is the same with the red hollow.

If you lay the base of silicate, then under the influence of moisture, after a few years, individual sections will begin to crack.

Sizes, brands

The required type of raw material must necessarily meet the following requirements:

• be whole, without voids;
• frost resistance level - from 35 cycles and above;
• water absorption - no more than 16%;
• compression density - 1600 kg / m 3.

Ceramics should be used brands: M150, M200, M250.

Suitable brick sizes:

• 25*12*6.5 cm - single;
• 28.8*13.8*6.5 cm - modular;
• 25*12*8.8cm;
• 28.8*13.8*8.8 cm.

We calculate the required amount of material

Initially, a drawing of the future structure is developed, which takes into account:

• land type;
• what material will the walls and ceilings be made of;
• the presence of a basement or attic;
• floor area of ​​the building.

And already based on the load on the foundation, determine its shape (tape or pillars), width, depth, amount of material.

When calculating the material for a columnar foundation made of bricks, it is important not to forget about the cross-sectional dimensions of the supports. Correctly make them square with an edge of 38 cm or rectangular, 38 * 51 cm in size.

We create a brick foundation with our own hands

Having determined the purpose of the building, they decide on the construction of a tape or pillars.

But in any of the options, waterproofing is required. For this, the old proven bitumen, rolled roofing material is well suited. For additional protection against moisture, they dig a trench and lay a drainage pipe in it.

Consider step-by-step instructions for creating each type of brick foundation.

Stages of construction of a columnar base

Its strength is sufficient for light structures:

• small country houses from a felling;
• plank hozblokov;
• summer shower and toilet;
• gazebos.

It is easy to lay out such a foundation yourself, armed with guidance from experienced builders. Its price is affordable, but the blind area does not need to be done.

1. For a one-story frame house, pillars with dimensions of 38 * 51 or 38 * 38 cm are enough.
2. If this is a summer kitchen with an attic, then the dimensions of the supports are increased to 51 * 51 cm.
3. Cement grades M400, M500 are best suited for mixing the mortar.
4. The bottom of the pits must be leveled, rammed and geotextiles laid. It will become an obstacle to the penetration of moisture into the foundation, will not allow sand to go into the ground, and weeds will grow.
5. From above, a pillow is formed from crushed stone and sand, roofing material is laid.
6. After that, the laying of pillars begins in a proven old-fashioned way.
7. Every 4 rows, it is recommended to strengthen the supports with a layer of wire mesh.
8. To ensure that all columns are in the same plane, each lined row should be checked with a building level.

An important feature worth considering is that the supports under the bearing walls are made much thinner, about 25 * 38 cm.

Ribbon erection

The choice in favor of this foundation is possible if it is planned to build a building with a basement, a basement, an attic on the roof. Walls can be built of stone, reinforced concrete.

According to the reviews of the masters, the tape is a reliable foundation not only on solid ground, but also on sandy, heaving loam. The main thing is to perform high-quality reinforcement.

Pouring the foundation of broken bricks

Parts of bricks sometimes remain from old buildings, which can also be used as auxiliary material when pouring the foundation. But even here it is suitable only for the base for small structures such as a bathhouse, a barn or a gazebo.

It is not worth believing that a reliable tape, a monolith for a house, will be obtained from this raw material. Even if a good layer of mortar is poured, the rubble stone will not withstand such a load.

Brick battle is an additive to concrete instead of crushed stone. Therefore, we advise you to familiarize yourself with some of the subtleties of its application:

1. Raw materials should be beaten until small and uniform pieces are obtained.
2. The material must be placed closer to the center of the foundation.
3. It is worth using only parts of ceramic solid bricks.
4. For 1 m 3 of the base, ½ battle will be required.
5. The layer of concrete mortar should be 2 cm higher than the level of the coated rubble.

Choosing brick as the main material for the foundation, you will get a reliable foundation that you can make yourself, saving on the services of builders.

Such an option as a brick foundation has long been a thing of the past. But, nevertheless, there are people who still use this technology in construction. There are many prejudices about the construction of such a nominal version of the foundation for a brick house. Fears are mainly related to situations that arise during operation. Many users have encountered a problem when, after a period of time, the foundation cracked. The process is often connected with the fact that the developers did not think about the need to use such an option, did not take into account the weight of the structure. It is important to understand for what purposes such a case is best suited.

When is a foundation needed?

The first thing you need to figure out is for which cases it is optimal to use a brick for the foundation. Let, from a technical point of view, such an option is applicable for any structures, in practice it is used exclusively for one-story buildings of low weight. Building a huge two-story brick house on a similar white foundation is not recommended. But for an extension or for the construction of a small bathhouse, a veranda or a modest white summer house, the material is suitable. The brick foundation is distinguished by a set of certain positive and negative points that are important to consider in the process of preparing for the work. In addition to the main material, the brand of concrete, the type of soil and the insulation used in the work play an important role.

Brick is suitable for decorating strip and column bases: the main thing is to prepare a reliable base.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages

Cracks in the base of this type can be repaired without much effort and expense.

• Installation without the use of formwork. It is a significant economic advantage. The advantages are that no concrete is required to be poured into the formwork; therefore, time and money are not wasted on the design of such an element.
• There is no need for large-scale concrete work.
• Bookmarking flexibility. If damage occurs (if there is a crack in the foundation), the problem is fixed locally.
• The ability to choose and make a tape base in any shape, to insulate the structure additionally.

Disadvantages of a brick foundation

• Short service life. The disadvantages are that, in comparison with a strip concrete foundation, white or red brick loses in this regard.
• Large masonry volume. The blind area around the house is formed for a long period of time.
• Weak design. As an additional reinforcement, it is necessary to use reinforcement bars.
• Soil incompatibility. It is recommended to use a brick foundation in places remote from the flow of groundwater.
• High hygroscopicity. Brick is the material that quickly absorbs moisture in the ground, the finished structure is gradually destroyed.

What material is used?

Burnt red brick is the ideal material for this job.

If you are laying a brick foundation with your own hands, it is important to know which material is by no means suitable for such purposes. In this case, silicate brick is completely unsuitable for work. The above-ground part for the base is laid out in a white block. In order to arrange an underground brick foundation, high-quality burnt red brick is used, which is the least susceptible to moisture. The use of low-quality broken bricks is not allowed - the entire result of the work will come to naught.

How to calculate materials?

The amount of materials needed is calculated in accordance with the work plan. Step-by-step instructions, as a rule, contain data on the approximate necessary stock of funds for laying the foundation. Approximately 400 bricks are used in one cubic meter of masonry. To calculate the approximate amount of material, multiply the estimated volume of the structure by 1 cu. m work. In addition, brick formwork involves the use of cement, insulation and reinforcing material.

Additional paint may be needed to paint the base.

Step by step installation instructions

Tape

An additional measure during construction is a pillow of sand.

This option is able to withstand a more serious load, up to a small wooden house. The strip foundation made of brick is shallow and deep. The second method is used in the case of taking into account the depth of soil freezing. The main work is carried out in areas with heaving soil (the most suitable option), in addition, it is recommended to additionally sprinkle the area with sand and gravel so that in the future there will be no situations with structural deformation and the house will not be led to the side.

Preparation

At the preparatory stages, there are the same actions as in the case of a columnar foundation. A trench about 1 m wide is dug along the entire perimeter of the project. The dimensions of the annex are agreed in advance. If processes of high occurrence of the groundwater level are observed in the area or the soil itself is excessively wet, the width of the proposed pit should be 1 m larger than the building itself (a necessary condition for drainage). The procedure ends with the fact that the bottom is strewn with sand, water is poured, and then it is compacted.

As a rule, professionals lay bricks, however, having delved into the simple technology of laying bricks on the foundation, you can handle it yourself. It should be taken into account that this hard and difficult work requiring precision and skill.

First brickwork advice- after pouring the foundation, you need to wait at least two days before laying the first brick. In this case, the foundation will get stronger and withstand the weight of the bricks. When doing work, it is important that the rows are even and the corners are properly tied.

The secrets of bricklaying are known to few people - mankind has been fiddling with bricks for five or six thousand years. However, let us remember that "it is not the gods who burn the pots."

Why are bricks laid on the foundation?

Brick laying on the foundation is made for formation of a plinth enclosing the underground space. The stability of the building is significantly increased by the construction of the plinth.

brick plinth

The best material for building a plinth is a red brick. Above the ground level (at a height of 15 cm), special ventilation holes should be provided, which are placed in an amount of at least one for every 3 meters and are covered with a special metal mesh or dampers. The device of the basement is a complex and responsible task. The basement and foundation are the basis of strength, strength, and reliability of the house.

Correct laying of the base

The technology for the correct laying of bricks on the foundation begins with setting the correct angles. The first row is installed without mortar along the width of the base. The level needs to be constantly monitored. You have to measure the sides, making sure that the structure is absolutely even.

The maximum allowable discrepancy is 2 cm, since such an error can still be corrected with subsequent actions.

Having measured the sides, you can mount the base itself using a brick with a solution of sand and cement. Solution we do this: one part of cement, three parts of sand, water in an amount sufficient for a thick, plastic consistency of the solution.

Minimum basement wall width should be 380 mm - with foam insulation, or 500 mm - without insulation. The height of the foundation required for the construction of the basement is 30-40 cm. This height of the base of the house allows you to build a high, beautiful basement, where you can subsequently place a utility room or boiler room.

For the construction of the base, a whole brick, or its halves, is used. It is worth paying special attention to the brick binding of the corners, since they carry the entire load.

How to lay a brick on the foundation

Should be prepared in advance tools:

• trowel (or trowel) for spreading the mortar, removing excess mortar, leveling;
• mason's hammer for splitting bricks into pieces of the desired size;
• a plumb line checks the verticality of the masonry;
• the cord helps to lay out rows in straight lines, to observe one height indicator;
• ordering marks the rows according to the thickness of the seam and brick;
• a wooden rule checks the quality of the outer surface;
• shovel;
• container for mixing the solution (or concrete mixer).

First we lay the roofing material for insulation cleaned foundation from moisture. You can go two ways.

First way- completely lay out the first row, and then the corners. In this case, the angle should always be a few bricks above the walls. We check the observance of the straightness of the corners, the verticality of the masonry with a level, a square, a plumb line.

Second way consists in the initial removal of all corners, after which the walls are laid. Angles are checked using the same tools. You need to correct irregularities by tapping on incorrectly lying bricks with a hammer. The stage ends with tying a cord for a guide in the corners. Now you can start the main part of the work.

Masonry technology is simple:

• lay out and level with a trowel the width of the mortar to one and a half centimeters;
• lay the brick, slightly pressing it down to evenly distribute the binder mixture;
• gently tapping with a hammer, align the stone, observing the line indicated by the cord;
• collect excess mortar with a trowel, fill the vertical seam between two bricks.

Some experienced builders pre-apply a small amount of bonding mixture to the side face of the brick to bond with the adjacent one.

Must always be remembered about control over verticality, straightness of lines and thickness of seams.

Leveling the foundation with brickwork

The load-bearing walls of the building rest on the foundation. The secret of a structure's stability lies in the evenness of each of its four surfaces. To align the bottom plane of the foundation, you will need such tools:

• shovel;
• construction plumb;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• capacity for cement mortar;
• Master OK.

The creation of a perfectly flat lower plane of the foundation masonry at the bottom of the trench begins with the construction of a sand cushion. The lower plane is not visible, but its irregularities can lead to problems in the operation of the building. It will not be possible to align the uneven lower plane later, it is necessary to immediately make it perfectly even.

Qualitatively manufactured formwork allows you to get smooth inner and outer surfaces. However, there are times when the foundation does not turn out to be even, despite the fulfillment of all the rules for the formwork.

How to level the foundation with a brick? Methods for leveling the surface of the base

1. Installing a new formwork and pouring concrete mortar allows you to cope with significant surface irregularities.
2. Brick lining is relevant for eliminating minor defects in the base.
3. Close-fitting with mesh netting, fixed with a thick layer of plaster.
4. Covering with a layer of additional thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool) hides small irregularities.

Methods for leveling the upper plane of the foundation

More often, it is the upper plane of the base that sins with unevenness. Since walls are built from it, perfect evenness is required. To obtain a smooth surface, constantly use a water level. The hydraulic level checks, first of all, the corners, then the perimeter of the base. It should be remembered that only a bubble-free water level gives correct measurements. Finishing the masonry, a liquid cement mortar should be used, which will level the surface over the entire area.

You can correct a small difference, for example, 2 cm, relative to zero with brickwork if you change the thickness of the horizontal seam. SNiP sets standards to the thickness of the horizontal seam - the maximum value should not exceed 12 mm, with a tolerance of +3, -2 mm. A deviation of up to 15 mm from the horizontal per 10 m of masonry is allowed. Such a deviation is eliminated by laying the next row of bricks.

Correction of the foundation of an already finished building- a complex procedure that requires the intervention of qualified specialists. In this case, it is better not to take risks and turn to professionals.

As a theater begins with a hanger, so a house begins with a foundation. Modern construction technologies offer various ways of its construction. One of them is a brick foundation: the technology is old, somewhat forgotten, but quite relevant. How to make such a foundation reliable and durable?

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick foundation

Like all other types of foundations, brick has its pros and cons.

Benefits of a brick foundation

Disadvantages of a brick foundation

In what cases can a brick foundation be used

Only small one-story buildings can be built on a brick foundation: cottages, baths, summer kitchens. At the same time, it is important to be sure of the reliability of the soil. It is necessary to choose dry, stable (low-heaving) soils. On unstable soils, the foundation is reinforced with reinforcement.

The choice of brick for the foundation

For a brick foundation, apply:

Do not use white silicate, refractory and red slotted bricks. Silicate and refractory are not resistant to moisture, and crevice is not strong enough.

The material consumption is affected by the size, type, volume of the foundation and its depth. To calculate the number of bricks, it is necessary to multiply the volume of the base by the number of bricks in one m 3 of masonry. This is an average of 460 pieces.

Types of brick foundations

There are two main types of brick foundations: strip and columnar.

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is more often used for capital summer cottages.

The strength of the strip foundation allows you to build a reliable foundation for a country house

This type of foundation is a strip (ribbon). It covers the entire perimeter of the building and serves as a support for all the walls of the building. Load-bearing walls require more tape width. The tape base is used in the construction of houses with brick or stone walls and heavy floors, as well as in the arrangement of basements. When performing high-quality reinforcement, such a foundation can be erected on soils with a heterogeneous composition, consisting of sand and heaving loams.

Video: an overview of the types of strip foundations

Column Foundation

Pillar foundations are used for light frame, panel or wooden houses without basements.

A columnar foundation requires less bricks than a strip foundation, but it also withstands significantly less weight.

Brick pillars are installed in the corners of the building and at the intersection of walls and serve as a support for heavy and internal load-bearing partitions. The pillars are connected by strapping beams, which unite their heads. Walls are built on these beams.

Video: brick column foundation

What is the best foundation

In construction practice, both types of foundations are used, however, tape has higher strength characteristics. In addition, it is fundamentally important that moisture does not get into the soil that comes into contact with the brick. And it is easier to do this by applying a strip foundation with drainage and a good blind area.

Brick foundation laying (step by step instructions)

In construction practice, the technology of a strip brick foundation is most often used. Therefore, we dwell on this method in detail:

1. First of all, it is necessary to mark the place where the foundation will be built and carry out earthworks. The trench should be about 20 cm deeper than the ground freezing level, but not lower than 50–70 cm from the ground surface. With an increase in soil moisture, the width of the belt increases.

   Properly prepared trenches look like straight lines and follow the contours of the future building

2. At the bottom of the trench, a sand cushion 20 cm thick is made, moistened and well rammed. The pillow is poured from sand of large fractions.

   The sandy layer at the bottom of the trench must be well compacted.

3. The base is made of concrete. For this, formwork is made. The height of the concrete base is approximately 10 cm. The formwork is made accordingly. The width of the base must be 50% greater than the thickness of the tape. Between the pillow of sand and concrete, waterproofing is made of roofing material.

   The trench is filled with concrete, which serves as the basis for masonry.

4. Laying is done in 3-4 days. Masonry mortar is made from cement and sand, mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 with the addition of waterproofing additives. The foundation is usually laid out two bricks thick.
   

   The laying of a brick foundation is carried out according to a strictly defined pattern, in which the arrangement of bricks is repeated through a row.

5. The foundation is reinforced with reinforcement. It is made between the first and second row, as well as before the last one. It is recommended to use steel or composite reinforcement with a diameter of 6–8 mm or a reinforcing mesh with a diameter of 4–6 mm.

   Brick foundation is best reinforced with reinforcing mesh

6. Further, approximately two weeks later, waterproofing is performed. For brick foundations, it is mandatory and is done both from the outside and from the inside. The easiest and most affordable way of waterproofing - the brick walls of the foundation are coated with bituminous mastic and glued with roofing material:
   
7. The brick foundation is insulated from the outside with foam plastic, foam plastic or polystyrene plates. After that, the trench is covered with sand and gravel, which helps protect the foundation from moisture.

   Brick foundation is insulated with polymeric plate materials

8. Drainage is required in very wet areas. For this, geotextiles are used. It must be laid in a trench at a distance of 0.5-1 meters from the outer wall of the foundation. Next comes a layer of rubble. Perforated pipes are also used to improve drainage. They are laid with a slight slope, covered with rubble and wrapped with the remaining ends of the geotextile. Then everything is covered in layers with sand, compacting each layer. The removal of moisture through pipes occurs in wells or drainage channels.

   The drainage system uses perforated pipes wrapped in geotextile and protected from silting by a layer of gravel.

The technology of building a brick foundation today is quite relevant in summer cottage and homestead construction. Its correct application allows you to build a reliable foundation for many types of light structures on your own.