Perennial dahlias are incredibly spectacular - spreading and tall, bright in color. These flowers bring gardens to life in the fall. Dahlias are grown both tall from 60 cm to 1.2 m, and dwarf ones. Dwarf dahlia with small inflorescences is good in rock gardens, containers,. Rooted cuttings or sprouted root tubers are planted at the end of May. In autumn, the faded shoots are cut off, and the root tubers are dug up and stored. Let's talk about when to remove dahlias and what to do with them next.
Dahlias in the fall what to do
Preparation for winter begins with digging. Digging dahlias in the fall is a very responsible matter, since their safety during the winter depends on the correctness and timeliness of the digging and processing of root tubers.
When to dig dahlias for the winter - If leaves and stems are nailed by frost, dig up the dahlias immediately. Otherwise, large buds near the root collar may start to grow and root tubers will begin to deplete, which, as a result, will be poorly stored.
How to dig dahlias in the fall
Harvesting dahlias in the fall starts with getting rid of them. Then cut the stem slightly below the hilling level with the pruning shears. The part of the stem remaining on the root tubers should not be damaged by frost.
Around the dahlia bush, within a radius of 20 cm from the stem, dig a trench deep with a shovel's bayonet with a shovel and carefully pry the root tubers. During all the operations, do not forget that the dahlia root tubers are very fragile and weakly attached to the root collar. In no case should you pull on the stem, as the root tubers can come off. Those who have torn off will have to be thrown away. There is no point in preserving them, since they lack kidneys.
Take root tubers in your hands, clean them from the ground, cut off small roots and then wash them with a gentle stream from a hose or under a tap. Some connoisseurs prefer to divide the dahlia root tubers immediately after digging them in the fall. But .
At the time of cutting the stem during digging, an infection is often introduced, from the cut, the disease begins to spread through the juicy tissues of the hemp downward and reaches the root tuber. It is fashionable not to notice this rot, since no changes are visible on the outer fabrics. Some growers recommend scraping the juicy hemp tissue above the root collar with a knife. Hemp tissue then quickly dries up, corks, and thus the conditions for the development of rot disappear.
Large buds near the root collar also become a source of infection. They usually rot in storage. After washing the root tubers, break these buds to the base. After that, check if there is water in the lower cavity of the hemp, located above the root collar, for which you pierce it with an awl and tilt it.
If this water is not drained, the root tubers will begin to rot. Then, for disinfection, immerse the root tubers in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Then powder the wounds with crushed charcoal or sulfur. The name of the variety can be written directly on the root tuber.
Dahlias need to be dried for the winter. To dry, bring the root tubers for 15 - 20 days in a cool, frost-free room with a temperature of 5 - 10 degrees and an air humidity of 85 - 90%.
In no case should you dry them in a warm room at room temperature. Under these conditions, the dahlia tubers immediately begin to evaporate a large amount of moisture, and even if they are later transferred to a cool place, this process will continue, the root tubers will dry out to a mummified state and will no longer be revived.
This is a great art and not everyone succeeds. We share our experience in storing dahlia tubers for the winter. We hope you will find them useful.
Dahlia tubers are afraid of frost and can die if left in the ground for the winter. In order for the plant to please you with lush flowering next year, it must be dug up in time and placed in suitable conditions. Consider how to prepare dahlias for winter.
In early fall, caring for dahlias should include removing the lower leaves and hilling. The first accelerates the ripening of tubers, the second protects them from frost. Examine the bushes: the infected should be dug up along with a clod of earth and burned. Such work is carried out in early autumn, before the onset of cold weather.
The tubers are dug out after the first severe frosts, focusing on wilted and darkened foliage. The exact time depends on the region. In the Urals, this is the beginning of October, in the Moscow region - approximately its middle. However, if the cold began too early, you can cut off the withered stems at a distance of about 15 cm from the ground, to a healthy area, and keep the rhizomes in the ground for another 2-3 weeks so that they mature. On the remains of the stems, you need to immediately attach tags with the names of varieties.
If the aboveground part of the plant is completely frozen, the tubers need to be dug up within three days.
Video: "Preparing dahlias for winter"
The video clearly demonstrates the process of digging up a bush and cleaning the rhizome from useless and diseased areas.
How to properly dig
It is advisable to dig dahlias on a dry sunny day. If the stems have not yet been removed, cut the top of the bush 40 cm from the ground. Use a small spatula to dig in the bush to a depth of about 25 cm. Do this carefully so as not to damage the tubers. Then roll the pitchfork deeper, pry the bush and pull the underground part out.
Purification from soil
Now let's look at how to prepare dug dahlia tubers for winter storage.
Gently shake the soil off the rhizomes, wash them, dry in the shade and inspect.
Too dark and bumpy tubers can be thrown away - they are old and will not give new buds. Also remove damaged areas and small, loose appendages. As a result, only strong and dense tubers with renewal buds should remain.
Cut thin roots completely with pruning shears, long and thick ones cut in half.
Cut the trunk as short as possible so that it does not rot. Some gardeners recommend scraping the soft green tissue off of it.
Dividing tubers
Rhizomes are divided in autumn or spring. Each method has its own pros and cons. In the fall, it is more difficult to notice the buds, on the other hand, during the winter the planting material coarsens and during the spring separation it can be harmed. For example, we will consider the autumn method.
The step-by-step instruction looks like this:
- Disinfect a sharp knife, such as rubbing it with alcohol or holding it over a fire. You need to repeat the procedure after each root: if one of them is infected, the juice remaining on the blade can infect the rest of the planting material.
- Use a knife to split the stump remaining from the stem and gently pull the rhizome in different directions to split it in two.
- Repeat the process to get four plots. Each of them should have tubers with buds and a fragment of the neck of the stem. If the rhizome is small or you are performing such an operation for the first time, it is advisable to stop at this. If you already have the skills, a large rhizome with a large number of tubers can be divided into 6-8 parts.
- Trim the tips of the large tubers. If the cut is dark or rusty in color, it indicates an infection. If this is the case, cut off the tuber sections until you reach completely light colored tissues. Remember to disinfect the knife every time to avoid infecting the healthy area. If in the end less than a third of the tuber remains, separate and discard it.
- If there are especially large buds near the root collar, remove them - in winter they often rot, which causes the entire plot to disappear.
- Powder the cuts with crushed charcoal.
It is better not to separate small rhizomes with thin necks.
Tuber marking
If you are growing more than one variety of dahlias, the preparation of tubers for the winter should include marking. Attach a variety tag to each plot. It makes sense to mark especially strong plants - in the spring they can be used for cuttings.
You can also arrange plots of different varieties in separate boxes.
How to dry
It is advisable to disinfect the tubers by immersing them in a solution of potassium permanganate for about 30 minutes or in a fungicide for 15 minutes. Then they should be laid out to dry for 5-6 days in a well-ventilated cool room. In dry and sunny weather they can be dried on the veranda. The stems should be facing down.
If the tubers are exposed to heat, too much moisture will evaporate from them, and as a result they will die. Kidneys may also awaken, which will rot in winter.
The method of treating tubers with paraffin before storage
There are several “recipes” for treating the roots before storage. One of the most effective ways to prepare them for winter is to coat them with paraffin wax.
To give your plots this protection, melt one or more candles in a water bath. You can use a double-bottomed scoop or mug. It is undesirable to melt paraffin in boiling water - you can burn your hands and scald the roots.
When the candles are melted, quickly dip each plot in paraffin. Planting material can be packaged for storage immediately after the procedure.
Remove the protective layer before planting.
How to store it correctly
In the basement or closet where the tubers are stored, the air humidity should be about 70-80% and the temperature + 2 ... + 5 ° C.
A veranda or unheated balcony is less suitable: if it freezes, the planting material will deteriorate. If there are few tubers, they can be placed in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment.
Garden soil can be used as a covering substrate. In this case, the tubers are laid in one layer. The stems must remain open.
Lighter and more breathable substrate options:
- sand;
- vermiculite;
- perlite;
- peat;
- sawdust.
They can be used individually or mixed with each other. In this case, the planting material can be laid in several layers.
Winter care of tubers consists in their regular inspection, at least once a month. If you notice rotten or frostbite areas, they should be removed immediately and the remainder treated with an antiseptic. Adjust the indoor climate as needed.
Careful preparation and proper storage will help the tubers easily endure wintering, and in the next season you will be rewarded with abundant and lush flowering.
Thorough preparation of dahlias for winter is a prerequisite for their well-being and, accordingly, lush flowering for the next year. Good storage of tubers is also very important, although in this respect every gardener has many secrets of his own. So, let's take a look at five basic rules that must be followed in order for your flowers to winter successfully.
The optimal storage regime for dahlia tubers implies a temperature of +3 ... 5 degrees and an air humidity of 60 to 70%, subject to good ventilation.
A good option is to lay the tubers on a layer of peat in a wooden container and then sprinkle them with peat chips. Peat can also be replaced with sand or sawdust (preferably from conifers). In this case, the tubers are placed so that only stumps peep out of the sand / sawdust, which are sprinkled with quicklime a little. If the tubers show signs of wilting, the insulating material should be slightly moistened. And dahlias are allowed to be layered with plain paper (in the absence of peat and other substances).
If you do not have the opportunity to store dahlia rhizomes in the cellar, in winter they can also be kept in a city apartment in its coolest place (for example, not far from the balcony door, or on a glazed balcony). In this regard, the tubers are best placed in plastic bags filled with dry peat and tied tightly. It makes sense to hide the planting material of the most valuable varieties in the vegetable section of the refrigerator.
In order for tubers lying in a damp and warm room to spoil less, they must first be waxed. Dissolve the paraffin in a wide bowl over low heat (water bath). Its temperature should not be higher than +60 degrees. Tubers are alternately immersed in molten paraffin for 1 to 5 seconds or poured from a cup on top. The stripped area on the stump and the cut must be free of paraffin wax so that it does not interfere with tuber respiration. Then they are shifted with peat and removed to a storage room.
In winter, the tubers must be regularly sorted out, inspected and cut out for decayed areas. These are the main stages of preparing dahlias for winter and the rules for their storage.
In what time frame and how best to dig dahlias is well described in the video.
Dahlia is one of the most beautiful flowers that are grown in our gardens. It is remarkable in that it has a variety of colors and colors. And there are a great many varieties of this amazing flower. It got its name in honor of the botanist Johann Georgi, who was engaged in the cultivation and breeding of dahlias. The main task of the gardener in the autumn is to properly prepare the rhizomes for wintering. This is a very important moment so that healthy and beautiful flowers will turn out from the tubers next season.
Autumn care for dahlias is:
- in harvesting fallen leaves;
- loosening the earth;
- proper watering.
If you paid due attention to a flower bed with dahlias during the summer season, autumn care will make the task easier. The first step is to remove fallen petals, leaves and other debris around the flowers. This is necessary in order to avoid the accumulation of pests that are preparing for wintering and infections. After that, carefully examine your bushes. Sick and dried flowers need to be dug up and burned. This will prevent the spread of infectious diseases to other flowers. When the dahlia is watered, it stores moisture at the bottom of the stem. This helps him survive the drought. To avoid decay of the root collar during storage, you must stop watering two weeks before digging up the roots.
Dahlias reproduce by dividing the roots. You can plant dahlias in the spring with seeds, by the fall they will develop good tubers.
In our climate, dahlias are annual flowers if the roots are not dug up and stored properly. Before you start digging, you need to wait for the cold weather, when the leaves on the stems freeze a little. This will harden the flowers and provide immunity.
Preparation of dahlias for wintering, autumn agricultural technology
The main danger for dahlias in autumn is the onset of frost. Despite the fact that you need to dig them up when the autumn cold weather sets in, a shelter at night will help preserve the tubers of the plant. Cover the dahlias with spunbond at night. If it is not possible to do this every day, you can leave the shelter for a week.
The dahlia bush is wrapped completely with one layer of material. The shelter is not made tightly so as not to damage the flowers.
Top dressing plays an important role in the care of dahlias. They are fertilized during the summer at intervals of 10 days. The last feeding is done after the dahlias have faded. Flowers are fed with potassium sulfate - 30 grams per bucket of water.
At the beginning of autumn, dahlia's leaves are cut off at the bottom of the stem and periodically spud. Tearing off leaves promotes the maturation of tubers, and hilling saves from frost. Before digging, dahlias are spilled so that the plant is saturated with moisture. Do this two weeks before digging.
When to dig dahlias
The cold days have come, but our dahlias should remain in the soil a little more. The onset of frost in different regions happens in different months. As for the Urals and Siberia, where the climate is rather harsh, you can start digging in September. But you need to focus on the weather forecast. As mentioned above, it is necessary to let the dahlias freeze a little in order to harden them. In the middle lane, the climate is milder, so in September it will be too early to carry out these procedures. In the south of our country, digging is possible in November-December. But, and if you live in hot countries where there are almost no winters, dahlias can overwinter in the ground. In any case, the main reference point is the weather forecast.
If it was not possible to save dahlias from frost, you will see their withered foliage, dig up the roots within three days.
Preparing dahlias for storage
An important stage is the preparation of dahlia rhizomes for storage for the winter. If certain conditions are not met, the roots will die and will not give new flowers in the next season. As soon as the dahlias have caught the frost, we begin to dig up the roots. Do not delay this procedure, as new buds may appear, which will weaken the roots. We cut off the stem, leaving 10 cm. If the dahlia is tied to the support, prune it without untiing it. Otherwise, the stem may break and be left without buds. Attach a tag with the name of the variety and color to each hemp. It is better to dig with a pitchfork, sticking them deeper and a little further from the roots so as not to damage them. You can do it with your hands. To do this, put on gloves, dig out the ground around, try to hook the roots at the very bottom and pull them to the surface.
There is an old root in the dahlia root system. Usually he is larger than the rest and there is a tuberosity on his body. It must be removed as it is prone to rotting and will not bud in the spring. The roots, which are very thin, must also be cut out, since they will dry out during the winter and there will be no sense from them. Rinse the roots under running water and you will see the real picture - damaged or underdeveloped. These roots must be removed.
If the roots are not separated, but planted the whole root head next year, there is no guarantee of good development and the formation of large and lush buds.
We cut off small roots with disinfected scissors or secateurs.
How to process dahlia tubers before storage
Processing dahlia tubers is an important stage in their preservation. If the dahlia tubers are healthy and have not undergone an invasion of pests, as well as numerous infections, they will calmly survive the winter under the conditions described below. Before the rhizomes are laid for storage, they are processed. The most effective way is fungicide treatment.
First of all, sort the dahlia tubers into varieties to further create the color scheme in your flower bed. Soak in any solution for 15 minutes. You can process tubers in solutions of Epin, Fitosporin, Topaz. There is a large assortment on sale, we act according to the instructions. You can use a weak manganese solution.
If the roots do not sink to the bottom of a container of water, but float to the surface, they are not suitable for storage.
Next, you need to dry the roots well. Drying should be done on paper or cardboard. Root marking is the next step. Sign each root - variety name and color. You can apply directly to the root and write the name in full, so that in the future you will not be lost in guessing what kind of variety it is. A chemical pencil is useful for this.
Alternatively, arrange each variety in containers that you have previously signed. You can attach a piece of plastic with the name of the variety or color to each spine.
How to save dahlia tubers:
at home
Each gardener has his own secrets for storing dahlia tubers. It all depends on when you dig up the tubers. The best weather conditions for digging them up are air temperatures from zero to three degrees below zero. Having cleared them from the ground and processed by the methods described above, they are then put into storage in boxes and stored at a temperature of plus 7 degrees. Permissible deviations are plus or minus one degree. The humidity of the ambient air should be between 60 and 80 percent. Dahlia roots can be stored in different ways. For example, they are coated with paraffin. For this, the paraffin is melted in a steam bath and the roots are dipped in it.
Then the tubers are placed in a box and stored there until April at a temperature of 10 to 14 degrees Celsius.
The main task when storing dahlia roots is to provide them with conditions under which their germination will be impossible.
Another way to preserve the roots in winter is in a film or in a plastic bag. To do this, buy peat in a store, put it in a bag or film and wrap it. The main advantage of this method is that the roots do not touch each other. The state of the roots is very easy to check.
Clay chatter is not a bad way to preserve tubers. First, we treat the dahlias with fungicides (recommendations above). We dilute the clay with water to the consistency of sour cream. We lower the roots into it, and then let it dry and send it for storage.
If you don't have a lot of dahlia roots, you can store them in the refrigerator.
in the cellar
The cellar is an ideal place for storing dahlia roots, as the temperature there corresponds to the conditions under which the roots will not germinate. Prepared rhizomes are laid out in boxes or on shelves, if space permits. Can be sprinkled with coniferous sawdust. It is better to lay out no more than two rows in boxes. In the conditions of the cellar, constant inspection of the roots is necessary, since rodents can damage them. We discard such roots immediately. We also observe whether our rhizomes have rotted.
in the apartment
An apartment is not the most suitable place to store dahlia seed. But, if there is no other way out, it is still necessary to withstand the temperature regime. As we already know, the air temperature should not be allowed above 7 degrees. One of the storage options in apartment conditions is a glazed balcony. Hang a thermometer on the balcony and monitor the temperature. In case of excess, open the window sashes. In winter, in the unheated balcony, you can wrap the roots in a warm blanket. It is also a good way to store it in boxes, which are pre-lined with insulating material, such as cotton wool, straw, felt.
in sawdust
Storing dahlia rhizomes in sawdust is not a very bad way. But the sawdust must be well dried. We take boxes or any containers, pour sawdust, then spread the roots at a short distance from each other. We make sure that the roots do not touch each other. This is necessary so that in case of rotting of one of the roots, the neighboring roots are not infected. Pour a layer of sawdust on top and lay out the next row. You should not lay out more than two rows. Temperature and humidity conditions must comply with the general conditions described above.
in sand
Storing dahlia roots in sand is similar to storing in sawdust. Before laying the rhizomes, the sand must be calcined to avoid infection of the roots with infection. The layout should be the same as in sawdust, i.e., the roots are not in contact with each other, in order to avoid infection with rot. We stand at a temperature of plus seven degrees and a humidity of 60 percent.
Why are dahlia tubers stored with their root collar down?
The root collar plays an important role in the growth and development of any plant, as new buds can form on it. Experienced gardeners advise storing the dahlia tubers with the root collar down to remove excess moisture, this will prevent tubers from rotting. In dahlias, when the roots are kept at a sufficiently low temperature, the buds sleep. In spring, when rhizomes germinate in pots or when planted in open ground, the root collar should not be buried, new shoots will go from it. You can, of course, plant a tuber without a stem, but then the germination process will be increased.
Dahlias, like other flowers, need proper care and storage. Armed with knowledge and relying on your own experience, you can achieve unsurpassed results.
In autumn, there is a danger of damage to dahlias from early frosts. In some areas this can happen as early as late August or the first half of September. But at this time, there may be many more growing, small buds on the dahlia bush. It will be a shame if they get damaged and the flowers don't bloom.
Therefore, it is necessary to take measures to protect dahlias from night autumn frosts. To do this, the bush is simply closed with a spunbond covering material. If you can do it daily, then do so. If you are leaving the dacha for the whole week, then you can hide the dahlias for a few days.
One layer of spunbond is enough to protect the dahlias from frost. Just wrap the entire bush with twine tied around the top. It is not necessary to press the covering material too tightly so as not to damage the flowers and not break the shoots. The lower part can be pressed to the ground with stones.
This way, you can protect your dahlias from early fall frosts.
When to dig dahlias in the fall
Some gardeners rush to dig up dahlias in the fall. They do this when the bushes are still completely green and have a lot of buds and flowers. This should not be done. As long as the plant has healthy foliage, there is an accumulation of nutrients in the root system. Thus, the plant prepares for winter, ripens, and accordingly it will be better to store it later.
The other extreme is when the dahlia is stagnant and severely beaten by frost. This is not good either. Because in this form, the dahlia begins the process of decay at the root collar, which can spread to the tuber.
Therefore, we must choose the middle ground. Just keep an eye on the condition of the dahlia bush. If it is damaged by night frosts, and it begins to dry out, then after a couple of days you can dig it out. By this time, nothing bad has happened.
How to dig dahlias
If you have planted dahlias correctly since spring, then a wooden stake should remain in the center of the bush (recall that when planting dahlias, a stake is first driven into the planting hole, and then rhizomes are planted). The stems of the plant are tied to this stake. In the fall, all of them must be cut off, and the stake must be pulled out.
Remember that the very value of dahlia is not in the roots, but in those buds that arise on the root collar (the place where the trunk passes into the roots). Therefore, in no case should you pull on the bush when you dig it. Different varieties of dahlias have very thin and fragile necks moving from roots to stems. They will simply break off and there will be nothing left to store. If this happens, then there is no point in storing only the tubers, just throw them away and that's it.
And to prevent this from happening, be sure to cut the stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground before digging. Do this with a regular pruner, but if the stems are too thick (sometimes it happens), you can use a garden saw.
Then use only a pitchfork or a shovel. It is necessary to retreat 30 centimeters from the stem, because the rhizomes diverge to the sides, and they can be damaged. If you work with a pitchfork, the risk of this decreases.
When digging dahlias, step back 25-30 cm from the stem Having dug in from all sides, carefully remove the earthen lump with roots. Do everything without haste, first stir the bush so as not to do unnecessary damage. Pull out a lump of earth with a shovel, and then remove all the soil from the roots with your hands. Afterwards, it is advisable to rinse it with a hose.
However, some growers do not do this, placing the rhizomes of dahlias in containers directly with a lump of earth. They store it in the basement, while the tubers winter well and are stored until spring. But it all depends on the conditions and storage possibilities.
Preparing the dahlia for storage
After digging, all thin roots going in different directions from the tubers must be cut off. This must be done precisely in the fall, so that all these sections heal during storage.
It is good to process dahlia rhizomes in preparations that are specially created for the treatment of rhizomes and tubers (such as "Maxim" or "Hom"). It is necessary to prepare the solution in a large container, and then soak the roots there in accordance with the instructions for the preparation, usually for 5-20 minutes. Then you need to dry everything. 
Storage methods
There are several ways to store dahlias, and each gardener chooses the most suitable and pleasant one for him.
As a rule, either boxes or other spacious containers are used for storage, where the roots will lie freely, with sufficient air.
You can cover dahlias with dry sawdust. Sometimes covered with dry sand, ash. Please note - all named materials must be dry! It is better to let the root dry out a little than become wet and then rot because of this. An overdried dahlia can be restored - soak it in growth stimulants, and it will come to life. But with the decaying one, nothing can be done - just throw it away.
Dug up dahlia tubers Storage conditions
As for storage conditions, dahlias can be removed for the winter in the cellar, but only if the temperature there does not drop below zero. Dahlia roots die even at -1 degrees. Remember this.
You can put the dahlia roots in the basement or underground, but again, if it's not too hot there, not higher than +10 degrees.
Humidity should be high, neither too high nor too low, somewhere around 50-60%.
Dahlia rhizomes can be stored in a box in the cellar Waxing
Some gardeners use a method of storing dahlia roots covered with a layer of paraffin. This method is interesting in that when the roots are dipped in liquid hot paraffin, many pathogens are destroyed. And secondly, the paraffin prevents the rhizomes from drying out.
Paraffin treated roots can be stored even under room conditions. In the spring, you do not need to try to get rid of paraffin, the sprouts will easily germinate through it.
How impossible
In no case should you put dahlias in plastic bags. There they will suffocate and rot.
Should dahlias be divided in autumn
If the rhizome is not divided, but planted in the spring directly in the excavated form, then you will end up with a huge bush. As a result, it will shade itself, and at the same time it will not give more colors, but on the contrary, since the dahlia needs light and sun.
Therefore, the bush must be divided into parts without fail. Some gardeners do this immediately in the fall, but we do not recommend doing this, since the rhizomes will receive too many large wounds, and it will be more difficult for the plant to survive during the winter. Therefore, dividing the root, in our opinion, is best done in the spring before planting.
You can try this and that. And then choose the most suitable option for you.
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