Pepper formation. How to form a pepper bush: instructions for beginners and common mistakes

Growing peppers in a greenhouse is different from growing the plant in open ground. The greenhouse creates ideal conditions for the rapid growth of bushes, but the lush foliage absorbs all the nutrients from the soil, which has a bad effect on the size and taste of the fruit, so the question arises about the need to trim the plants in order to reduce the number of leaves and shoots. Read more about whether it is necessary to form pepper bushes in a greenhouse, the basic rules and techniques of this procedure, as well as step-by-step instructions for how to form plants - later in the article.

Why do you need to shape peppers?

Beginning farmers often underestimate the importance of forming a sweet pepper bush and do not pay enough attention to this procedure, cutting off only dried leaves and shoots.

Did you know? Eating bell pepper stimulates the formation of endorphins in the blood, which are called “hormones of happiness.”

• Proper formation of pepper bushes helps achieve the following goals:
• removal of barren shoots without ovaries, on the cultivation of which the plant wastes energy;
• removing excess inflorescences and ovaries - helps to avoid overloading the plant;
• guarantee of uniform ripening of the crop;
• improving foliage breathability;
• free penetration of sunlight to all fruits and parts of the bush;
• good commercial characteristics of ripened fruits;
• reducing the risk of diseases and pests;
• neat appearance of plants.

There are many different varieties of peppers, differing in the size of the bushes. And if low-growing varieties do not have too lush green mass, then tall ones can reach a height of 2 m and have dense foliage.

The need for plant formation is determined depending on its height:

• low growing varieties, having a height of up to 50 cm, can be grown without formation, provided that they are not planted too close to each other. If the plants are planted densely enough, then you need to trim off excess shoots and leaves to improve air access to the roots and provide lighting to all ripening fruits;
• medium-growing varieties peppers grow to a height of about 1 m and require pruning of the lower barren shoots, which in vain draw juices from the plant. It is also recommended to get rid of some leaves so that the thick green crown does not shade the fruit from the light;
• tall varieties bell peppers grow up to 2 m and require mandatory shaping. They need to be grown in 1–3 stems, promptly removing stepsons, excess shoots and leaves, as well as stopping the growth of the main branches at the stage of ripening of the formed fruits.

When to form a bush

Typically, peppers are grown from seedlings and then transplanted into a greenhouse. But the formation of the plant must begin even before it is transplanted into the greenhouse. Typically, a seedling begins to branch after it reaches a height of 15–20 cm.

Important! When planting pepper seedlings in a greenhouse of 1 sq. m area can be no more than 5–6 plants. At the same time, there should be free space around the seedlings to increase their volume by 2–3 branches.

At this stage, the first formation of the sprout is carried out. Further formation is carried out according to the rules described later in the article.

Basic rules for forming a bush

The formation of a pepper bush is carried out gradually. It consists of several important steps and takes time. Let's take a closer look at the basic rules for plant formation.

1. Removing the crown bud. It is carried out at the stage of seedling growth, when the stem of the seedling branches into 2 separate powerful shoots. In this case, a bud is formed between these branches, which is called a crown bud. In order for the seedling to continue to actively grow and branch, the crown bud should not bloom, so it is removed. If you plan to use seeds obtained independently to grow sweet peppers next year, then the crown bud is left on 1–2 plants, since it produces the highest quality seeds for planting.
2. Trimming excess shoots. In the process of further growth, the main stem begins to branch. In the fork on which the crown bud was removed, several new shoots are formed. Of these, 2–3 of the most powerful ones are selected, and the tops of the remaining shoots are cut off.
3. Trimming lower leaves and barren shoots. Under the first fork on the main stem, side shoots and leaves begin to grow. Such shoots are called sterile and are pruned. Too many leaves shade the fruit and can slow down their ripening, so they are also removed. It is equally important to trim damaged, dried and disease-affected leaves, since from them the infection can spread to the entire bush.
4. Pinching the tops of the stems of the first order. It is carried out after about 15–20 fruits have formed on the branches. In this case, further growth of the main shoots will not increase the total amount of harvest, but will only take away the plant’s strength, so the tops of such shoots are pinched so that the resulting fruits grow large, sweet and can ripen on time.

Did you know? Bell pepper is actively used in cosmetology for the production of anti-aging face masks and hair care products.

Formation methods with step-by-step instructions

Under ideal conditions in a polycarbonate greenhouse, pepper bushes begin to grow actively. In order not to overload them with a large green mass and at the same time not to cause them stress by excessive pruning, you need to form the bush correctly. Most often, peppers in a greenhouse are grown with 1, 2 or 3 stems. The method of formation depends on how many plants are placed in the greenhouse.

In one stem

This method of formation is used when the plants are planted very close to each other and there is not enough space in the greenhouse to grow voluminous bushes.

Step-by-step instructions for forming a pepper into one stem are presented below:

1. The formation of a bush begins at the stage when the main stem of the plant branches into several side shoots.
2. Remove any side shoots that begin to form as offshoots from the main stem. You should end up with a straight bush with one straight stem on which leaves and flower clusters grow.
3. If during the process of plant growth, forks form again on the main stem, then they are carefully cut off, leaving only the flower bud and 1-2 leaves above it.
4. When 10–12 fruits form on the bush, you need to pinch out the top growing point on the stem. This will ensure the ripening of the formed fruits, and also stop the growth of the plant in height.

In two stems

This method of forming peppers is the most common and allows you to get a neat V-shaped plant that holds at least 20 large fruits.

Let's look at the step-by-step instructions for forming a pepper into two stems:

1. This formation must begin at the stage when the main stem of the plant branches into several side shoots.
2. Trim off all side shoots extending from the main stem, except for the very first shoot. You should get a bush with two stems of the first order.
3. When branches of several shoots begin to form on the shoots of the first order, leave one of the strongest ones and cut off the rest above the level of the first flower bud and one leaf.
4. Repeat the steps from the previous paragraph for shoots of the second, third order, and so on until about 20 ovaries are formed on the bush.
5. Pinching the tops of the two main shoots of the first order. This will help stop the growth of the plant in height and ensure the ripening of the resulting fruits.

Three stems

Pepper bushes, which are grown in three stems, take up quite a lot of space in the greenhouse, but produce a larger yield of fruits with good commercial characteristics.

Important! This method of forming a bush helps to achieve the best lighting for all peppers, as a result of which the crop ripens faster.

A step-by-step algorithm for forming a pepper bush into three stems is described below:

1. The formation of a bush begins at the moment when the main stem of the plant branches into several side shoots.
2. If the main stem immediately splits into 3-4 strong shoots, then only 3 branches are left, and the extra shoots are pinched out.
3. If at a fork the stem branches only into 2 parts, then the formed branches of the first order are not cut off and wait until the next strong shoot appears, extending from the main stem.
4. After the 3 main strong branches of the first order are selected, forks also begin to form on them. At each fork, only the strongest shoot is left, and the rest are pinched. When pruning excess branches, only the first flower bud and a couple of leaves above it are left.
5. Repeat the steps from the previous paragraph for shoots of the third order and so on until about 25 fruits are formed on the bush.
6. Pinching the tops of the three main branches of the first order. This helps stop the plant from growing in height and ensures the ripening of the resulting fruits.

Scheme of pepper formation into one, two and three stems:

Basic Techniques

To properly form a pepper bush, three main techniques are used: pinching, pruning leaves and pinching stems. Each of these procedures must be carried out according to certain rules, which will be described later in the article.

For clarity, consider a diagram of the structure of a pepper bush grown in a greenhouse (see figure):

1 - main stem of the bush; 2 - shoots of the first order; 3 - second order branches; 4 - skeletal shoots.

Black horizontal strokes indicate places where shoots are pinched. Let's take a closer look at the basic techniques for plant formation.

Stepsoning

This technique involves removing stepsons - small lateral processes that form in the axils of the leaves during the growth and branching of the stem and shoots. They take away the strength from the plant that is needed to produce a large number of large and beautiful fruits.

• removal of stepchildren should be carried out only after the plant reaches a height of 30 cm and its main branches are sufficiently strong;
• all small side shoots that appeared under the branching point on the main stem must be removed;
• when removing stepsons, it is recommended to leave stumps about 3 mm high so that the plant is not exposed to diseases or attack by pests;
• pinching of plants is carried out early in the morning, and after the procedure the ground around the bush is loosened and watered;
• Stepchildren can only be removed with sharp and disinfected instruments.

Topping

The key to a bountiful harvest is not only a large number of fruit ovaries, but also their timely and complete ripening. With uncontrolled growth of shoots, numerous ovaries can form, but they will only draw juices from the bush and will not be able to produce a full harvest. To avoid this, carry out the procedure of pinching the shoots.

The basic rules for pinching peppers are described below:

• when the main stem of the plant branches into several parts, they are pinched, leaving only 2–3 of the most developed stems, which form the skeleton of the bush;
• when another branch of several shoots forms on the skeletal branches of the plant, only the most developed of them is left, and the rest are pinched;
• when further branches of several shoots form on second-order shoots, you need to leave only the strongest of them, and cut off the rest above the flower bud;
• after a sufficient number of fruit ovaries have formed on the bush, the growth points on all main shoots are pinched;
• The last pinching of the stems should be done no later than 1 month before the end of fruiting of the bush.

Typically, it is recommended to leave about 20–25 fruit ovaries on one pepper bush.

Trimming

In order for the ovaries formed on the bush to turn into large fruits and ripen on time, they need to be provided with good access to light and air. For this purpose, unnecessary leaves are trimmed, which shade the plants too much and take away excess nutrients from them.

Did you know? On the territory of Russia, bell pepper appeared in the XYI–XYII centuries. At that time it was grown only as an ornamental plant.

This procedure must be performed according to the following rules:

• all dried and damaged leaves must be removed;
• pruning of green leaves should be carried out only on healthy bushes, since after this procedure the plants are more susceptible to disease and attack by possible pests;
• leaves on the main stem can be removed after the peppers on the first order shoots have reached the stage of technical ripeness;
• no more than 2 sheets can be removed per trimming;
• when the peppers of the second cluster have reached technical ripeness, you can pick off the leaves located under it, and so on;
• when trimming excess leaves, you need to ensure that 1–2 leaves remain on the stem above each ovary or fruit, since they provide nutrition to the fruit;
• The last pruning of the leaves is done 1.5 months before all the fruits are fully ripened.

Video: How to shape peppers in a greenhouse

Aftercare

In order for the farmer to have a good harvest of sweet peppers at the end of the season, in addition to proper formation, the bushes need to be provided with the necessary care.

The basic rules for caring for peppers in a greenhouse are listed below:

• watering as needed, but at least once every 5–7 days. Water for irrigation should be warm, about 2 liters are consumed per plant;
• ventilation of the greenhouse to reduce humidity levels and prevent condensation;
• feeding plants with mineral fertilizer complexes after transplanting seedlings, before flowering and at the stage of fruit formation;
• loosening the top layer of soil around the bushes to improve air permeability;
• protecting plants from direct sunlight in hot weather (above +30°C);
• tying side shoots to installed supports to balance the plants.

Important! In hot weather, pepper bushes need to be watered at least 2 times a week.

If you adhere to all the rules for forming a bush described above, you can get a bountiful harvest of pepper with high commercial qualities.

But to ensure that pruning and pinching shoots do not harm the plant, you need to follow a few more recommendations:

1. Only healthy plants can be formed; diseased bushes may die as a result of this procedure.
2. Pruning of all shoots and leaves is carried out with sharp instruments, disinfected in a solution of any antiseptic.
3. It is impossible to form pepper bushes in a greenhouse during extreme heat - the lush green mass helps protect the stem from burning out.
4. The pruning and pinching procedure is best done early in the morning, when there is no scorching sun rays.
5. Plants that have not reached a height of 20 cm should not be grown, as pruning can lead to the death of the young plant.
6. If the pepper bushes in the greenhouse are planted very far from each other and the leaves do not touch, then the green mass is not pruned.

The procedure for forming pepper bushes requires time, patience and some effort from the farmer. But if you carry out pruning and pinching taking into account all the recommendations described, then at the end of the season the plants will definitely delight you with an excellent harvest of tasty and beautiful peppers.

A well-formed pepper bush will delight the owner with a lush appearance and a rich, mouth-watering harvest.

The process of pepper formation depends on the characteristics of its variety:

• On tall varieties, pinching and trimming of excess shoots is done.
• For medium-sized varieties of pepper, formation will consist of removing the lower and barren side shoots. This will improve plant lighting and air circulation.
• Low-growing, dwarf types of peppers do not need shaping at all, they are already good. Or it is enough to cut out weak, sterile and inward-growing shoots.

You should pinch out excess shoots very carefully, neatly and competently, carefully following all the rules:

1. Removing flower crown buds. As soon as the main stem of the plant reaches a height of 20-25 cm, it begins to branch. At the site of the branches, a flower bud is formed. It is this that should be removed as early as possible so that the branching process proceeds correctly.
2. Pinching out unnecessary shoots. An ideal pepper should consist of a stem and 2-3 strong shoots that come from the fork of the crown bud. It would be advisable to remove all other shoots and branches. They are removed by cutting off the top or growing point.
3. Removing excess shoots and lower leaves. While growing peppers in a greenhouse, periodically inspect your pet for the growth of barren (empty) shoots. They need to be removed. Most often, unnecessary branches are formed just below the branching of the main stem of the pepper. In this area we should also destroy all the leaves that shade the planting and impair pollination.
4. Pinching skeletal branches. This procedure should be carried out after collecting a sufficient number of fruits, this will speed up the ripening of the rest of the crop. All growth points located on the main stems of the pepper should be pinched. After the procedure, the growth of the pepper stops, and all the energy of the plant is spent on feeding the ripening fruits.

Which pepper does not require shaping?

There is no need to form the following low-growing, weakly branching pepper varieties and hybrids.

• Low-branching pepper varieties: Florida, Barguzin, Topolin, Zodiac, Alyosha Popovich, Bagration, Lumina (Belozerka), Dobryak, Victoria, Bogatyr, Ilya Muromets, Lastochka, Gift of Moldova, Dobrynya Nikitich and others.
• Low-branching pepper hybrids: Pinocchio F1, Claudio F1, Othello F1, Goodwin F1, Gemini F1, Maxim F1, Mercury F1 and others.

Growing peppers in a greenhouse

When transferred to a greenhouse, the pepper is planted so that it remains possible to increase the volume of the bush by 2-3 branches. The planting scheme for varieties and hybrids with high bushiness can be 40-50x70-80, i.e. 2-5 or 3-6 pieces per sq. m. If the bushiness is average, then per sq. m planted from 6 to 8 pepper bushes.

The formation of a pepper bush involves pinching, removing excess barren shoots and pruning. After planting and establishment, the bushes are inspected to ensure they are healthy and pest-free. Barren lower shoots and leaves located on the trunk up to the first fork are removed, providing the bushes with normal ventilation and lighting.

The pepper branches formed after branching are called lateral branches. These are branches of the first order, or skeletal. Each side branch first grows from a central stem, which has leaves. At the base of the petioles of these leaves (in the axil) shoots appear. These are stepchildren. They are removed by pinching.

How to properly form peppers in open ground

When growing peppers in open ground, only tall varieties and hybrids can be formed. In medium-sized plants, sterile fattening shoots, lower shoots and stepsons must be removed to provide the bush with normal lighting and ventilation. Low-growing varieties of pepper do not need shaping. Crooked, broken shoots that grow inwards must be removed. On medium- and low-growing pepper bushes, pinching of the central shoots is carried out to enhance lateral branching. The total number of fruitful shoots of pepper does not exceed 4-6, and the number of fruits, depending on the variety, is 15-25.

Tall plants when grown in open ground must be loaded with side shoots. To force the plant to bush, pinch the top of the main stems at a level of 25-30 cm from the soil level and remove the crown buds. The basis of the pepper bush will be 4-5 skeletal shoots of the first order. The rest are deleted.

The rest of the formation process involves pinching off excess shoots. Leave 3-5 of the strongest shoots formed from the fork of the shoot. At each next branch of the bush, approximately the same number of shoots is left, the rest are removed. It turns out to be a lush bush. When a sufficient number of fruits are formed on the pepper bush, the skeletal branches are pinched or the tops are cut off. Pepper fruits left on the bush will rapidly gain mass, and new ones will stop setting. The energy of growth processes will switch to the ripening of already formed fruits. During this period, new leaves and shoots will continue to grow.

Pinching and removing pepper leaves will provide comfortable conditions for the crop. During the entire growing season of sweet peppers, weather conditions must be taken into account. If the summer is dry, then it is better not to remove the lower leaves. They will cover the soil from excessive heating. In damp and rainy summers, on the contrary, the lower part of the bush needs to be exposed (mainly at the level of the trunk) so that excess moisture does not stagnate, causing fungal and bacterial diseases.

Formation of a pepper bush, video

If you still have any questions about the formation of sweet and bitter peppers, write them in the comments.

Many people believe that caring for bell peppers comes down to regular watering, feeding and protection from diseases and pests. However, there is another measure that can significantly increase the yield of a vegetable - the formation of a bush. Read on to learn how to do this correctly.

Forming a bush is an effective technique for increasing productivity and size of bell pepper fruits. With the help of formation, the ground volume of the pepper bush is regulated.

Some gardeners ignore this measure, believing that provided favorable conditions are provided, the vegetable will produce a good harvest. However, this is not true for all varieties. Some cannot cope with a large number of fruits on a bush and grow uncontrollably, spending energy on the growth of branches rather than on the fruits, which negatively affects the yield. In addition, the overgrown mass becomes a breeding ground for diseases and pests.

Variety value

The formation of pepper is an obligatory stage of caring for tall varieties and hybrids of this culture, those whose height reaches 1-1.2 m, for example, Hercules, Apollo, .

It is not necessary to form medium-sized(Anastasia, Greek, Sweet Dragon, Bagel, etc.) and low-growing varieties (Boneta, Timoshka, Fakir, etc.).

Stages and rules of bush formation

Forming a pepper is not a one-time process of pinching or trimming shoots., and the event consists of several stages.

During the seedling period

Formation begins when the seedling reaches a height of 15-20 cm. As a rule, during this period, the bell pepper sprout divides into two branches, and a bud appears in the middle, which is called the crown. This bud is removed to allow the shoot to continue branching. In the future, fruits will form on each branch, increasing the yield.

In the greenhouse

When planting seedlings in a greenhouse, take into account that the bush should increase in volume by 2-3 branches. Varieties with high bushiness are planted in 3-6 pieces. per 1 sq. m. If bushiness is average - 6-8 bushes per 1 sq. m. At this stage, the pepper is pinched, trimmed, and barren shoots are removed.

Attention! When the bushes take root, they are carefully inspected to identify possible diseases and pest damage. The formation process affects only healthy plants.

First of all, the skeletal branches (first order branches) are determined.. They begin their growth immediately after the central shoot branches. The shoots from the leaf axils are called stepsons. They are removed by pinching.

Skeletal branches of the first order are divided into shoots of the second order- as a rule, there are two of them. Of these, you need to choose the stronger one - it will also be skeletal. Its function is to support the shoots located above. The weaker shoot of the second order is removed, leaving the leaf and fruit.

Skeletal shoots of the second order are divided into shoots of the third order. They are dealt with in the same way: a more developed skeletal branch is selected, the rest are removed by pinching.

Over time, new shoots and leaves are formed on each skeletal shoot. They must be removed gradually (no more than two leaves per day). First of all, the leaves that shade the ovaries are torn off.

All the above procedures are repeated until the plant reaches a height of 1-1.2 m. Then the top of the bush is trimmed to stop growth and redirect all nutrients to the developing fruits. About a month and a half before the end of the harvest, the tops of all skeletal branches are cut off for the same purpose.

If you strictly follow the instructions, the result will be obvious.: 20-25 thick-walled peppers on each formed bush. Unformed plants will have many ovaries and small fruits.

In the open ground

When grown in open ground, only tall varieties of pepper are formed. In medium-sized trees, only the sterile and lower shoots and stepchildren are removed. Low-growing peppers do not need shaping.

If desired, pinch out the central shoots of medium-growing and low-growing varieties to enhance lateral branching.

Reference. Tall species should also be strengthened with lateral branches. To achieve this, the central stems are pinched at a height of 25-30 cm from the soil. The basis of the bush should be no more than five skeletal shoots, the rest should be removed.

The next stages of bush formation involve pinching off excess shoots. From each branch no more than five of the strongest shoots are left. The result is a voluminous bush. When a sufficient number of fruits appear on it, the shoots are pinched or trimmed. The nutrients will be used for further growth of fruits, not branches.

The right tool

To shape the pepper you need standard equipment- garden scissors (secateurs) or knife. The tool must be well sharpened and disinfected with any product containing alcohol or chlorine.

How to form a bush correctly: step-by-step instructions

Only healthy bushes are formed. Clean instruments are used for the procedure to prevent contamination of the seedlings. Formation is the process of selecting a suitable variety or hybrid (only tall ones are used, since when ripe they give a rich harvest of large fruits), followed by planting in a greenhouse or open ground and carrying out pinching, pruning, and pinching procedures.

The formation of a pepper bush consists of several stages. Let's look at each in detail.

Removing the crown bud

The first stage of the formation of the future bush- removal of the crown bud. This must be done when the seedling reaches a height of 15-20 cm. The action ensures proper branching of the plant and also promotes the flow of nutrients to the ovaries.

Removing excess and fruitless shoots

The formation of the pepper bush continues when it grows 10-12 leaves. At this point, excess branches are removed, leaving only skeletal shoots. A similar procedure is carried out with all newly appeared branches.

Over time on the plant empty shoots appear located just below the branching point main shoot. They get rid of them. Leaves that block the light and do not take part in the plant’s nutrition are also removed. The ideal ratio is two leaves per fruit, the remaining leaves are considered redundant.

Dying leaves must also be removed., as they can provoke the development of the disease.

Topping

This stage begins when fruits are formed on the bush.. Proper main branches will speed up fruit growth. Pinching (pinching) is the removal of the tip of the shoot. As fruits form on the bush, the growth points on the skeletal branches are pinched. This allows the plant to concentrate all its energy on fruit development.

Reference. The procedure is also carried out as the shoots grow. In the active growth stage, pinch the tops once every two weeks, and in the dormant stage, once a month is sufficient.

Stepsoning

After carrying out all the above procedures, carry out- remove the stepsons formed in the internodes and barren buds.

Common Mistakes

Common Mistake- pinching bushes located at a distance of more than 20 cm from each other. With such sparsely planted bushes, the green mass is left.

Reference. Many gardeners are in a hurry to remove new leaves and shoots. This is also a mistake. No more than two leaves are removed per day. Otherwise, the plant will experience severe stress and may die.

Insufficient attention of the vegetable grower to disinfection of tools, which is used for pinching and pruning, can cause the plant to become infected. Disinfect instruments with alcohol and chlorine-containing preparations.

Another common mistake- pinching and pinching in wet and rainy weather, which again increases the risk of infection. The procedures are carried out in dry weather so that the sections dry faster.

Many gardeners leave a large number of ovaries on the plant., mistakenly believing that fruits are formed from them. In fact, in this case the plant spends energy on developing unnecessary areas.

Is it possible and necessary to pick off the lower leaves?

It is possible, and in some cases necessary, to pick off the lower leaves of the pepper bush.. The feasibility of this measure largely depends on weather conditions. So, in hot and dry weather, the lower leaves are not removed, as they protect the soil from drying out. The sun's rays will quickly destroy a plant without leaves.

If the weather is wet, the lower part of the pepper bush is exposed, since excess moisture accumulates in the leaves, which, in turn, provokes the development of bacterial and fungal infections.

Conclusion

So, when growing peppers, you should not completely rely on nature. The formation of a bush is a necessary measure that greatly facilitates the process of growth and development of the crop. Proper formation of the bush allows you to get a good harvest of large, tasty peppers.

Owners of summer cottages love to show their less fortunate neighbors large and bright fruits, berries and vegetables from their garden. And this is not boasting, but the well-deserved pride of people who have managed to comprehend the tricks of “garden universities.” The cultivation of each fruit and vegetable is subject to its own laws and rules. Today I would like to tell you how to form a pepper bush to get the maximum yield.

Shaping peppers is a reliable way to increase its yield

The need to form varietal bushes

To get a good harvest of sweet peppers, you must first choose the right variety. The main selection criterion is climatic conditions. The gardener can choose the following options:

• Ultra-early varieties that reach technical ripeness in less than 100 days.
• Early pepper, capable of entering the stage of technical ripeness in 100-120 days.
• Mid-early varieties, which require up to 135 days to ripen.
• Late – ripening 140-150 days.
• Very late varieties that reach technical ripeness in 150 days or more.

The estimated height of the plants plays an important role in the selection of varieties. There is the following gradation:

• Bushes whose height is no more than 50 cm are considered low-growing.
• Medium-sized ones can reach 100 cm.
• Tall - up to 200 cm.

Sweet peppers of tall varieties need to form a bush. If you do not pay enough attention to this issue or form the cap incorrectly, then you can forget about a high yield.

Tall peppers need shaping

Step-by-step formation of a bush

The stages of pepper formation can only be considered for completely healthy bushes. It is very important to carry out all manipulations with a sharp and clean instrument so as not to infect the plants with various diseases. A tall variety is formed in four stages. During the season, the bushes are tied up and freed from damaged and dried leaves.

Stage one - crown bud

Pepper seedlings are single-stemmed, but when they grow to 17-20 cm, the plant begins to branch. At the point where the branches form, the formation of the first flower begins. The name crown bud is firmly attached to it. The first stage of bush formation is that this bud should be destroyed. This simple action will allow the culture to develop better.

Sometimes a plant grows several crown buds. In this case, it is necessary to remove all the flowers that have formed so that the plant can branch well.

The manipulation is carried out even if the seedlings have set crown buds before being planted in the ground.

The first buds should be removed

Stage two - cutting off excess

When the plant grows 10-12 leaves, the second stage of formation begins. Peppers need to be rid of excess branches. The plant is left with 2, maximum 3 shoots formed from the fork of the crown bud. Excess, weaker branches are shortened without regret, removing the apical point of growth.

The remaining branches are shoots of the first order, the so-called skeletal ones. They will form the basis of an adult bush.

Next, the plants are observed, noting the branching of skeletal vines. A fork with a bud appears on each skeletal lash. Of all the new shoots, you need to choose the strongest one, and pinch off the rest above the first leaf. This will provide nutrients to the pepper ovaries.

The operation is repeated every time the bush branches. All weak shoots will weaken the plant as a whole, so they must be removed. At each branch a flower bud will form, in which the pepper will set. But all the buds that appear in the internodes should be removed. Normal for a tall plant is 17-25 ovaries.

Weak shoots should be removed

The third stage - fruitless shoots

The pepper bush continues to develop even after the grower has removed all the extra shoots, leaving the required number of ovaries. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically look around the pepper beds, identifying empty shoots. They appear slightly below the place where the main stem has branched.

In addition to the extra branches, at this stage the leaves are cut off, creating extra shadow and not participating in the nutrition of the ovaries. In addition, all damaged leaves are removed from the bush to avoid the development of plant diseases.

If the owner of the plot took pity on the garden bed and did not remove the excess leaves in time, then the fruit will not appear in place of abundant flowering, and the yield of peppers will noticeably decrease.

Trimming excess leaves occurs according to the following scheme:

• As soon as the fruits of the lower cluster have entered the stage of technical ripeness, the leaves of the main stem are pruned, but they are not cut off all at once, but 2 pieces at a time.
• The next removal of leaves is performed after the appearance of the second cluster of peppers.
• Similar actions are performed in relation to all ripening fruits. The last harvest of foliage is carried out no later than a month and a half before all the peppers are fully ripened.

The bed is left untouched for a month and a half until the harvest is complete. Plants need rest.

Pepper leaves should not shade the fruits

The fourth stage - pinching the buds

To form large and sweet fruits, the plant will need strength, which may be wasted on maintaining new ovaries. Many inexperienced gardeners make the same mistake: they leave more ovaries than the plant can feed. As you remember, no more than 25 flowers can be left on one bush (most often 15-17 of them are formed, and the rest are mercilessly cut off). Flowers appearing at a later stage will not increase the yield, but will weaken the already formed fruits. This means that it is necessary to complete the fourth stage of forming a pepper bush - pinch out all the growing points on the main branches after a sufficient number of ovaries have been formed. Thus, the plant will be able to direct all the juices and forces to the growth of fruits.

There should be no more than 15-17 ovaries on a sweet pepper bush

Is it necessary to develop medium-growing and low-growing varieties?

If the gardener’s choice fell on short or medium-sized varieties of pepper, then he will not have to devote so much time to the formation of bushes. For plants up to 100 cm in height, it is enough to simply remove barren shoots so that they do not waste energy on “parasites”. And then remove excess leaves to improve the illumination of the ovary.

Pinching and pruning of excess shoots is not necessary for low and medium varieties. Dwarf varieties undergo minimal shaping only if the seedlings are planted too densely.

Tall pepper varieties can produce a higher yield, but will require more time and attention from the owner. It will be necessary to think over a scheme for planting seedlings and design trellises for tying up skeletal shoots (and each skeletal shoot will have to be tied up separately). The distance for planting seedlings of a tall variety should be at least 40 cm, and the row spacing should be 65-70 cm. However, if the plants were properly cared for during the gardening season, then you can be deservedly proud of the harvest.

Hello!

Finally, I got around to sitting down at the keyboard and I want to talk about the formation of a pepper bush. The harvest largely depends on the correct formation of the pepper bush. If everything is done correctly, then you are guaranteed a good harvest.

But first, a little about the fruits and characteristics of growing sweet peppers. Sweet pepper fruits can be harvested in the phase of technical or biological ripeness. Fruits that have reached the size corresponding to the selected variety or hybrid and have a peppery aroma are technical ripeness. And later, when the pepper fruits acquire the color corresponding to a given variety or hybrid, then this will already be biological ripeness.

Many gardeners cannot wait for biological ripeness, especially if the pepper is grown in open ground. After all, it depends on such important factors as heat and light. If the fruits are kept until they are fully ripe, the overall yield is reduced by almost a third compared to harvesting at the onset of technical ripeness.

You should know that during harvesting the fruits are plucked together with the stalk and it is important to carry out harvesting regularly, since this will give more nutrition to all the fruits remaining on the plant, which ultimately increases the yield.

Sometimes it happens that flowers and ovaries fall off. This happens with irregular watering, sudden changes in air temperature, lack of light, .... If the air temperature is below 15 degrees or above 30 degrees, then the moisture reserves in the soil decrease sharply and the leaves intensively evaporate moisture. This leads to dehydration of the buds and ovaries and they fall off.

In cold weather, insufficient illumination greatly affects, which is the reason for the fall of buds and ovaries.

Usually the formation of a pepper bush is carried out in two stems as shown in the figure.

At the very beginning of its development, the plant develops as a single stem. Then, at the point where the side shoots branch, a crown bud is formed. In order for the plant to develop better, the crown bud is removed.

From the side shoots of the first and second order, select the two strongest shoots (if the plant is formed into two stems). These will create the skeleton of the plant. The remaining shoots need to be pinched.

When the skeletal shoots begin to branch, forming a “fork,” at each such branching, the strongest shoot is left, and the weak one is pinched after the first leaf. We do the same with all subsequent “forks”.

In addition, you need to regularly remove all fruitless shoots that form below the branching point of the main stem. The branches are tied up, each separately, and periodically twisted around a support or twine.

In addition to the article, I will provide a short video.

Good luck to you!

1. Simple pepper preparations.
2. We make homemade pepper preparations.
3. Pepper preparations with vegetables.

• increasing the level of immunity;
• maintaining visual acuity;

• give a high yield;

The best predecessors of pepper:

Fertilizers and their compositions

The widespread cultivation of pepper in open ground in areas with mild climates is common because most varieties of this vegetable are extremely beneficial for our body. This natural low-calorie product has a beneficial effect on human health. He helps:

• strengthening human protection against colds;
• increasing the level of immunity;
• stable functioning of the cardiovascular system and reducing the risk of stroke;
• improving appetite and normalizing the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract and pancreas;
• lifting your mood and fighting insomnia;
• improving the condition of nails, bones, hair and skin;
• maintaining visual acuity;
• reducing the harmful effects of tobacco products;
• reducing the risk of cancer;
• normalization of metabolism and increased intelligence.

Vegetable pepper, which is grown in our gardens, belongs to plants of the nightshade family. It is a relative of tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. Two types of pepper are widely used:

• the sweet Bulgarian variety is especially popular among city dwellers;
• semi-bitter varieties are loved in rural areas.

Heat-loving sweet peppers are an invaluable storehouse of vitamins. Varieties of bell pepper delight summer residents with their bright colors, excellent taste, juiciness, and rich harvest. Its high-vitamin fruits are eaten raw in salads and stuffed with meat, mushrooms, vegetables or cereals. Bell peppers are baked in the oven or on a charcoal barbecue.

Semi-bitter pepper is considered a national Russian dish. It is salted, pickled and stored for the winter. In this article we will talk about sweet varieties of bell peppers.

Cultivated pepper pleases gardeners with a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors of fruits. But the bushes themselves vary in height: from two-meter giants to dwarf plants of 25–30 cm. There are varieties with small pods, and others with huge fleshy peppers, weighing 350–400 grams. The appearance of the fruit is replete with round, ball-like, cone-shaped, square and other shapes. The thickness of the pulp varies: in some varieties it is very thin (0.1 mm), in others it is quite thick (about 10 mm).

Many varieties of bell pepper seeds have been developed that can satisfy the wishes of the most demanding summer resident. There are many criteria for selection: the shape and color of the fruit, the timing of ripening, and agricultural cultivation techniques. Pepper is loved by those gardeners who like to decorate their garden with decorative beds. There are varieties and hybrids for indoor cultivation on balconies and window sills in containers.

It is important to know one feature: seeds of varieties can be prepared by gardeners themselves, and seeds of hybrids can only be purchased (they do not inherit varietal characteristics). Therefore, you need to carefully study the labels on the seed packaging. If there is a designation F1, this is a first generation hybrid, seeds from the fruits of which should not be taken. Hybrids have many advantages:

• give a high yield;
• the fruits are large in size and have good taste;
• more resistant to various diseases compared to varietal peppers.

The most famous hybrids: yellow sweet Gemini F1, Alyonushka F1, Claudio F1, Orange Miracle F1, Patricia F1, Atlantic F1, Santia F1 and others. Popular pepper varieties tested by many gardeners: California Miracle, Hercules, Kakadu, Tenderness, Gift of Moldova, Bogatyr and others.

The cultivated plant belongs to the annual subshrub. A powerful herbaceous stem is decorated with simple leaves. They are attached to it using petioles. The color of the leaves is green, olive, dark green. Pepper roots grow with strong branching. Many adventitious roots are formed on the sides. The main part of the roots grows in the layer closest to the surface of the earth. When damaged, the root system of peppers does not recover well. For this reason, seedlings do not pick.

Flowers in peppers form after the start of germination in 40–60 days. They close at night and open in the morning. In good weather - from six to ten o'clock. Pepper flowers partially self-pollinate. When there are a large number of bees, wasps, and bumblebees, cross-pollination occurs. An interesting detail: when the beds with sweet and bitter varieties of peppers are located next to each other, cross-pollination occurs. If pollen from a hot pepper gets on a sweet pepper flower, the taste from sweet will become spicy. Therefore, close placement of beds with spicy and sweet varieties is not recommended.

Growing peppers in open ground and in a greenhouse

Peppers have several features that distinguish them from traditional vegetable crops. These include:

• love of warm, even hot weather;
• weak root system, which does not recover well when damaged - therefore, seedlings are not picked;
• slow growth at the initial stage, therefore in the northern hemisphere it ripens only when seedlings are grown and planted under a film that protects from lowering spring temperatures and winds.

Pepper does not tolerate cold weather, so it feels comfortable in open ground only in the southern regions of Russia. But with the advent of modern non-woven covering material, heat-loving plants began to be grown in northern latitudes. Here, for example, is a non-woven material made of polypropylene produced using Spunbond technology. It has a structure that allows rain, air, and sun rays to pass through. The result is excellent - the pepper feels great in the created microclimate, demonstrating confident growth and delighting the owners with a bountiful harvest.

In open ground, pepper beds should be located in sunny, not windy areas. A good place is considered to be the land adjacent to the southern walls of garden buildings. In the absence of protection from the winds, it is created from tall plants, fences or covering materials. Experts advise growing different varieties of peppers for open ground in the garden. The main condition is that the beds of sweet and semi-bitter varieties should be located no closer than 2 meters to each other so that self-pollination does not occur.

The best predecessors of pepper:

• pumpkin plants (cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, zucchini);
• representatives of the cabbage family (all types);
• legumes (beans, green peas, beans);
• table root vegetables (carrots, beets, celery, radishes, etc.).

Fertilizers and their compositions

• Before the first fruits appear, it is advisable to feed the bell pepper 2-3 times.
• The first nitrogen fertilizing is done 10–12 days after planting seedlings in open ground using slurry. To do this, dilute 1 liter of mullein in 12 liters of water.
• At the beginning of the formation of buds, a second potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is done: a growth stimulator (2.5 grams of potassium humate) and two tablespoons of double superphosphate are added to 10 liters of water.
• The third feeding is carried out during the formation of the ovaries: two tablespoons of double superphosphate and a glass of wood ash are mixed in 10 liters of water.

Growing tall varieties of peppers in a heated greenhouse involves forming bushes with two stems. It consists of several stages and periodic removal of wilted leaves to improve ventilation and lighting of the plants. At the first stage, the first crown bud is removed, which is formed right at the initial fork of the branches. The goal is to improve the formation and further branching of the bush.

At the second stage, they get rid of excess shoots, creating bushes with two stems. To do this, the most powerful (they are called skeletal) processes on the first branch are preserved. The rest are stopped in development, that is, the top is removed. This technique is called pinching. As the skeletal shoots grow and branch, only the most developed shoots are left, and the rest are pinched into one fruit and one leaf above it. The leaf is needed to nourish the ovary, which hangs underneath it. When new forks appear, they do the same thing: the frail shoots are pinched off above the first leaf. Each branch produces flower buds that develop into fruit ovaries. They are left, and the flowers on the stems between the nodes are removed. One bush is formed for 15–25 peppers.

At the third stage, they get rid of shoots that will not bear fruit and the lower leaves. At the same time, you should get rid of all damaged and wilted leaves. It is important to know that the appearance of ovaries, the growth of peppers and their ripening largely depend on good lighting. This requirement especially applies to greenhouses. If the bush is not sufficiently lit, then even with the abundant appearance of flowers, there may be no fruit ovaries at all.

Each shoot is tied with a cord to the trellis and is constantly pulled up as the plant grows. 45 days before the end of the growing season, the tops of all skeletal stems are pinched. In open ground and cold greenhouses, the pepper bush plant forms three stems. Low-growing varieties are tied to pegs.

Growing pepper in order to obtain a rich harvest implies strict implementation of all agrotechnical practices. If the fertile layer near the roots of the pepper bush lacks moisture, this will lead to a decrease in the height of the stems, the weight of each fruit and the yield as a whole. If there is poor lighting in greenhouses, the stems will stretch, and the beginning of the formation of flowers and fruit ovaries will be delayed.

How to form pepper bushes

In the open ground

In the greenhouse

Rules for forming bushes

How to form pepper bushes

The formation of pepper consists of alternating stages of removing excess sprouts. It is a mistake to consider formation as a one-time procedure for trimming the lower leaves. The order of formation of greenhouse and ground peppers varies.

In the open ground

On the main trunk of the bush, in the first fork, flower ovaries are formed. This is the crown bud. After removing the crown flower, the branching is more regular. The ovaries that form above the first fork receive more nutrients.

1. Removing fruitless shoots. When ten leaves appear on the young seedling, remove the excess branches. It is advisable to leave no more than three good shoots.
2. Trimming weak branches. To stop the growth of thin, weak shoots, trim off the apical points.
3. Remove the extra shoots - these are all the shoots that have grown above the first leaf.

Carry out pinching regularly. Repeat the entire procedure when the formed bush has branched well. If these manipulations are carried out once, the bush will grow, weaken and will not produce high-quality fruits.

The order of pepper formation in open ground is completed by the stage of removing formed flowers at the internodes. Along with them, be sure to pinch the empty shoots, which are most often located on the branch of the main trunk.

In the greenhouse

Varieties grown in a greenhouse are larger and branchier. This is explained by the growing conditions and special temperature conditions. Therefore, you can’t do without forming a bush.

Be sure to remove the crown bud, trim the side branches and the bottom row of leaves.

First-order shoots are formed when the seedling has at least ten leaves. It is recommended to leave four main shoots. When they grow up, choose a strong pair from them. Remaining shoots should be removed. This pruning begins the formation of a bush in the shape of the letter V. After the procedure, sprouts will begin to branch, which will serve as the basis for branches of the second and subsequent levels.

Agronomists consider the proposed molding scheme to be the most successful. The bush will give a good harvest and will fully develop. All that is required in the future is to control the growth of side shoots, leaves that appear below the first fork of the stem.

The second stage is pinching a flower bud. If this procedure is not done on time, the fruit will begin to ripen, which stimulates the production of a special substance that slows down the growth of other ovaries. The ripening of juicy, healthy fruits will be stopped.

An equally important step is pinching the tops. This is done at the end of plant development. The ovaries should not be removed. Thanks to simple manipulation, fruit ripening is significantly accelerated. The bush will stop growing and send all the beneficial substances to the fruits.

Once every three days, remove buds, leaves, and barren shoots that have grown on the forks of the branches.

Rules for forming bushes

Growing sweet peppers is not as easy as it might seem. It is necessary to decide which formation scheme you will use before planting the seedlings in the ground. After all, correct planting, regularity of future fertilizing, and compliance with mandatory agricultural practices have a direct impact on the growing season of the plant. If you are growing tall varieties, first decide on the material and type of supports for the pepper.

1. More than one crown bud may form on young seedlings.
2. To improve the growth of the entire bush, both flowers are removed.
3. Peppers that are grown in comfortable conditions of a polycarbonate greenhouse with a stable temperature regime, therefore, their growth period, as a rule, is longer. Therefore, on such a plant it would be correct to remove leaves from the main trunk.
4. Do not forget, as part of molding, to cut off diseased, yellowing leaves with defects on the leaf plate.
5. Carry out the last pruning procedure 1.5 months before harvesting the last harvest. The bushes do not need to be disturbed during this period of time.

Recommendations from vegetable growers who have accumulated knowledge through experience will help to correctly carry out the procedure in open ground or a greenhouse. This sequence of pinching will help to obtain a rich harvest. Remember that all the effort invested in caring for the pepper will return to you as a vitamin-rich and healthy harvest.

The influence of weather on pepper planting

The growth of peppers is extremely dependent on the weather. In hot, rainy summers, the stepsons grow extremely actively on the pepper bush, so picking the pepper is a must. Otherwise, due to excessively overgrown shoots, the roots will not be sufficiently supplied with water and sunlight, without which normal metabolism and protein synthesis are impossible.

It is also worth remembering that the bush must be ventilated and blown in order to avoid all kinds of diseases and pests, and lush tops clearly do not contribute to this.

If the summer is dry and cool, the side shoots will not grow as actively, and neglecting pinching will not greatly affect your harvest. Moreover, it is worth considering whether to carry out stepsoning. The fact is that the leaves and side shoots create a shadow for themselves, due to which moisture is retained in the soil and the soil near the root does not dry out. This is very important for pepper; otherwise, you will have to water this crop more often, and this is not always possible.

But, in any case, do not plant the pepper before it has reached 25 centimeters in height.

Also, you should not plant peppers if the plant is sick - this can only harm the pepper and even provoke its death.

In addition, peppers like to grow next to each other and do not tolerate loneliness well. Therefore, if you planted bushes very rarely, you should not plant peppers.

And now we bring to your attention a video on how to pick peppers. Enjoy watching!

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the online publication “AtmAgro. Agroindustrial Bulletin"

Watering peppers

Feeding peppers

Feeding peppers can be:

• organic;
• mineral.

• superphosphate;
• ammonium nitrate;
• potassium sulfate;
• growth stimulants.

Loosening the soil

A rich harvest of juicy peppers can be obtained provided that the roots of the plant receive sufficient oxygen. To do this, the ground under the vegetable must be weeded and loosened with a hoe.

The first loosening of peppers in open ground can be done 2 weeks after planting the seedlings. The top layer of soil is carefully crushed with light movements of a hoe, and the plant stem is dug in with soil.

Pepper responds favorably to hilling. Together with loosening, this procedure can be carried out several times as the soil hardens.

Laying mulch will help reduce the frequency of loosening.

The following are used as organic mulch:

• grass;
• hay;
• straw;
• leaves;
• bark;
• sawdust;
• cut paper;
• cardboard.

Inorganic mulch includes:

• rubber;
• plastic;
• pebbles;
• gravel;
• sand.

Events for gartering peppers

The first green peppers that appear on a vegetable crop load the plant with their weight. This load increases as the fruits ripen.

Pepper stems are fragile and thin. To avoid breakage, they must be tied up in a timely manner.

Features of garter peppers:

• the plant is tied individually with twine to metal or wooden pegs;
• protection from the wind can be provided by planting tall and strong crops, such as cabbage or tomatoes, near pepper seedlings;
• Breakage of the pepper can be avoided by placing artificial fencing, boards or plastic panels up to 30 cm high on the sides of the bed.

Bush formation: pruning activities

Manipulations in the formation of a bush have a beneficial effect on the health of the plant:

• a decorated bush can bear up to 20 peppers;
• the fruits of the stepson plant are large in size, juicy and fleshy;
• the bush becomes more resistant to stem breaking.

The following activities include the formation of pepper:

1. Blinding the first bud.
2. Removing excess leaves.
3. Pruning shoots.
4. Pinching the buds.
5. Stepsonning.

Pinching is the breaking off of unsuitable side shoots that grow from the axils of the leaves.

It is necessary to form a pepper bush observing the following features:

1. Formation begins when the pepper reaches 30 cm in height.
2. The first flowering of pepper must be blinded - carefully break off or cut off the bud.
3. As soon as the crop produces its eighth or ninth leaf, you need to find the 3-4 strongest branches and remove the excess ones.
4. If shoots appear again on the saved stepsons, they need to be broken off.
5. For pepper varieties over 100 cm in height, it is recommended to pinch off the top of the plant so that the bush can direct its energy to the development of the ovaries.
6. For varieties less than 100 cm in height, the formation of a bush is limited to blinding the first bud and pinching the buds.
7. The crop needs to retain 15–17 flowers, and the rest must be removed in order for the plant to cope with growing a quality crop.
8. It is best to carefully break off shoots without ovaries.
9. It is also recommended not to leave yellowed and dried leaves on the plant.

Protection from diseases and pests

Pepper is a crop that is grown carefully protected from diseases and pests.

The most common diseases and ways to protect against them

Pepper diseases include:

Disease	Causes of the disease	Description	Methods of treatment and protection
Sunburn	direct sunlight; water on the leaves.	the burn area turns pale; the plant dries out.	it is necessary to make a canopy from blackout film.
Blackleg	contaminated soil and working tools; frequent planting of seedlings on the ground; excess moisture in the soil.	darkening of the base of the root; death of the plant.	remove diseased seedlings; treat the soil with 3% copper sulfate.
Alternaria blight	temperature difference; arid soil.	the appearance of dark watery spots; the formation of a fur coating on the leaves.	removal of infected bushes; treatment of plants with a 4% solution of copper oxychloride or 10% Bordeaux mixture.
Gray rot	wet soil;	dark gray spots on young peppers; rotting and death of fruits.	remove rotten fruits; treat with a mixture of equal parts lime and fungicide Rovral; pour with ash or crushed charcoal in a consistency of 1:5.
White rot	excess moisture in the soil; increased nitrogen content in the soil; acidic soil; frequent planting of seedlings in the ground.	the appearance of spots of white fungal spores; the plant turns yellow and dries out.	pull out diseased bushes and burn them; treat the area with copper preparation according to the instructions.
Apical rot	lack of calcium in the soil; excess nitrogen on the site; high humidity.	watery spots on plant leaves; the pepper dries out and dies.	pick affected peppers; spray with lime milk solution; pour 0.3–0.4% calcium chloride.
Verticillium and fusarium wilt	seed infection; contamination of soil or work equipment.	wilting and drying of the lower leaves of pepper; yellowing of the top of the plant; darkening of the vascular bundles of the culture; the plant dies.	pull out and burn all affected bushes; change the place for growing peppers.
Lythracnose	infection of seeds and soil.	seedling growth stops; dark spots on the base of the stem and leaves of the pepper; the fruits become spotted, shrivel and die.	treat the beds with copper oxychloride (water solution 0.4%); spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Late blight	cold; excess moisture.	brown spots on leaves and fruits with a light green edging.	treating the beds with onion and garlic infusion; spraying with Bordeaux mixture.
White spot	infection through seeds; contaminated soil.	light spots with a dark border and dark dots of spores; drying out and death of the bush.	remove and burn diseased bushes; treat the beds with Trichodermin and Fitosporin.
Streak	contamination of seeds, soil, equipment; presence of pest vectors.	plant growth slows down; red pod stripes appear on the upper leaves and fruits.	pepper bushes are pulled out and burned; pest control.
Bacterial cancer	hot weather; high humidity.	brown growing spots with a dense dry crust.	remove and burn diseased plants; treat healthy peppers with copper oxychloride or copper sulfate.
Black bacterial spot	cold snap; excess moisture.	dark spots form on stems and leaves; spots bulge and acquire oily properties; the plant dries out and dies.	remove and burn diseased bushes.
Downy mildew or Peronosporosis	excess moisture; heat.	dots appear that grow to yellow spots; the growth of the bush and fruits slows down.	dig up infected bushes; treat with Kuproxat or Oxychom.
Tobacco mosaic	little light; excess moisture; presence of pests.	the foliage is covered with a bright mosaic pattern; the plant slows down; the fruits become shriveled and covered with yellow spots.	watering with the addition of potassium permanganate; pouring a mixture of iodine and milk in proportions of 1:10.
Brown spot or Cladosporiosis	lack of seedling thinning; frequent planting of seedlings in the ground.	spots on the lower leaves of the bush; drying of the plant and death.	treat the beds with garlic infusion or a solution of 0.2% copper sulfate.

The most dangerous pests and methods of combating them

Pepper pests are:

Pest	Fighting methods
Aphid	treat the beds with infusions of wormwood or yarrow; disinfection with Fosbecid.
Spider mite	drug Fitoverm; drug Actellik.
Greenhouse whitefly	drug Fosbecid.
Wireworm	drug Aktar.
Scoop	traps; pheromones; drug Karate Zeon.
Thrips	sticky traps; drug fitoverm; drug Actellik.
Slugs	quicklime; granular metaldehyde preparation.
Colorado beetle	drug Commander.
Medvedka	plowing and digging beds; loosening and hilling; Medvetox drug.
Khrushchev (chafer beetle) larvae	deep plowing; drug Prestige; drug Aktar.

Watering peppers

The main way to improve the quality of the pepper harvest is to grow the crop, providing it with sufficient water. The vegetable must grow in moist soil.

However, excess water in the soil under the pepper deprives its roots of oxygen. As a result, the leaves of the plant turn yellow, and the vegetable itself gradually withers and dies. Dry soil under the pepper does not allow the plant to form ovaries, and the harvest turns out small and inconspicuous.

Therefore, you should water the pepper following the following recommendations:

• the first watering after planting seedlings in open ground is carried out 2 days later;
• During the period of growth and flowering, the plant is watered on average once a week;
• after the formation of small peppers, water the vegetable 2-3 times a week;
• Sprinkling mulch under the peppers will reduce the frequency of watering and retain moisture.

Mulch is organic and inorganic materials that are placed on the soil for plant health.

Feeding peppers

Fertilizers will help speed up the growth of young pepper seedlings. The vegetable receives its first portion of vitamins and minerals while still being a seedling on the windowsill.

Feeding peppers can be:

• organic;
• mineral.

Options for organic feeding of peppers in open ground:

• infusion of bird droppings on water in a ratio of 1:15;
• infusion of mullein in water in a ratio of 1:10;
• infusion of baker's yeast in water in a ratio of 1:5, diluted 1:10 when watering;
• nettle infusion of water in proportions 1:5;
• weed infusion in water with manure and ash in a ratio of 2:2:1:1.

Weed infusion for pepper is the finely chopped leaf part of weed grass from the garden.

Options for mineral feeding of peppers in open ground:

• superphosphate;
• ammonium nitrate;
• potassium sulfate;
• growth stimulants.

Mineral fertilizing must be applied strictly following the instructions on the manufacturer's packaging.

A few tips on how to properly fertilize peppers in open ground:

• during flowering, it is recommended to water with organic fertilizers to form healthy ovaries;
• the next watering is carried out with mineral fertilizers after the appearance of small peppers.

The video shows growing peppers and feeding options for sweet bell peppers. Filmed by Poleznoe TV channel.