In today's article we will talk about proper daylily care. Very often there is a tendency that the more beautiful the plant looks, the more difficult it is to care for it, but the beautiful daylily flower is a wonderful exception to the rule. It is not picky and quite easy to care for, especially if you initially plant it in a suitable place.
Suitable place to plant daylilies
Daylilies need plenty of sunlight. If you plant a flower in shade or partial shade, then most likely it will not bloom. Therefore, when choosing a suitable place for planting, first of all pay attention to the illumination of the area.
Also, when choosing a location, you need to take into account the composition of the soil; as a rule, it is rich loam. The daylily bush should be planted on a hill, but if the garden has excellent drainage, this is not necessary. In such soil, one can expect abundant and long-lasting flowering from the plant; in all other soils, daylily flowering will be much poorer and shorter lasting.
Advice: When choosing a suitable place, you need to take into account that this plant needs a lot of space, about 1 meter in diameter.
Optimal watering
The root system of the flower goes quite deep, thanks to which it easily saturates the plant with water when it is needed. You need to water rarely, but generously, and this should be done at a time when the sun is hiding or has not yet come out; early morning or late evening are perfect for watering.
Advice: You cannot water a daylily flower with rain, when moisture gets on the leaves and flowers; it is better to direct a watering can or hose under the root of the plant, then there will be less harm to the flower from such irrigation.
Advice: If the summer turns out to be quite rainy, then the daylily does not need to be watered at all; the soil needs to be moistened only during periods of drought. 
Necessary fertilizers for daylilies
The decorative quality of daylilies depends on the quantity and quality of fertilizers, so the plant needs feeding. The most important are two feedings: the first is spring, which is carried out before flowering with complex mineral fertilizers, and the second is immediately after flowering, it helps to lay the required number of buds for the next year.
Mineral fertilizers are scattered between the bushes of the plant, after which you need to water the flowers, as mentioned above, this must be done carefully so that water does not get on the flowers and petals.
Advice: Excessive amounts of fertilizer are dangerous for daylilies, therefore, if you do not know the exact proportions, then it is better to under-apply than to add too much fertilizer.
Advice: If you want to extend the flowering time of daylily, try immediately removing flowers that have bloomed, since the plant spends a lot of energy on forming seeds.
Transplanting a daylily to a new place
Daylily is not one of those plants that needs to be transplanted to a new place every 2-3 years; it can remain in the old place for quite a long time, but if the plant is mature, then you can divide the bush and plant parts of the flower as independent plants. When replanting, it is very important to pour fertilizer - peat and compost - into the dug hole, then the flower will have enough strength to bloom abundantly in the same year.
Advice: When replanting, the roots should be washed with water and carefully examined; all rotten or damaged roots should be cut off, then treated with ash and only then planted in a new hole. 
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Daylily propagation methods
Propagation by seeds
Seeds are sown in late autumn or early spring, their germination rate is quite good, although flowers should not be expected earlier than after 2-3 years.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
This method can be used in the spring; a plant that is 5-6 years old is dug up and divided into several parts by hand or with a knife, after which it is treated with ash. The new plant is planted in a suitable place, after which it is watered abundantly.
In recent years, interest in daylilies has grown due to the fact that a stream of new, previously unknown varieties with simple or double flowers of various shapes and colors has poured into Russia. More than 50 thousand varieties of daylilies have already been created in the world. Of course, all of them are available to our amateur flower growers.
In this regard, a huge number of questions arise about caring for daylilies in the garden. In the material presented you will find answers to the main questions about this beautiful flower.
In the garden, daylilies look good in any variety: in single and group plantings, in compositions with other plants, especially tall perennials, ornamental shrubs and conifers. And the best place is near water: a stream, a decorative pond, a well, or just a water tap.
Daylily or red daylily- a perennial herbaceous plant growing along forest edges and among shrubs. It has thick cord-like roots, often fleshy and thickened, thanks to which the plant resists severe drought. Numerous basal narrow (1-3 cm) sword-shaped leaves reach a length of 1 m, but can also be small (30 cm). The leaves are green in color, but there are also variegated forms with longitudinal white or yellow stripes.
Look at the photo of the daylily, the description of which is presented above:
Durable leafless peduncles rise to the level of the leaves or above up to 100 cm and bear from 10 to 40 flowers in a paniculate or capitate inflorescence. The flower is funnel-shaped, consists of six petals in two circles, the three inner petals are usually wide, with a wavy edge. The peculiarity of daylily flowers is their short life: each flower blooms for only one day.
Daylilies are distinguished by the length of the peduncle: low - up to 30 cm, medium - 30-60 cm, semi-high - 60-90 cm and high - over 90 cm. The color of flowers can be one-color, two-color, with a border or an eye, from light yellow to wine-red with various shades orange, pink, purple.
When do daylilies bloom: flowering dates
When do daylilies bloom in your garden?– It’s hard to take your eyes off these beautiful flowers. Daylily flowers are large, often funnel-shaped, but retain their decorative effect for only one day. They open early in the morning and fade in the evening. This feature is reflected in the botanical name of the plant, which comes from the Greek words hemera - day and callos - beauty.
Recently, varieties with an extended flowering period have appeared. The diameter of the flowers ranges from 7 cm in miniature varieties to 20 cm in giganticaceae. One adult bush of modern varieties can have up to 50 flowers, which bloom and fade gradually over almost a month and a half.
To varieties of daylilies that bloom all summer– include long-growing daylilies of the Stella de Orr variety. They bloom for almost four months - from June to September.
When you evaluate the decorative properties of different varieties, remember that a small plot with one rosette of leaves is unlikely to bloom luxuriantly in the next season after planting. You need to be patient and wait 2-3 years.
Hybrid daylily unites more than 40 thousand varieties of complex origin. Plants bloom profusely and for a long time from mid-July to early September, on average the number of flowers per plant varies from 100 to 200 pieces.
How to properly plant and care for daylilies (with video)
Planting daylilies and caring for them in the open ground primarily involves choosing the right place for growing. It should be well lit. Daylilies can grow in partial shade, but in our climate they bloom fully only in sunny areas. When shaded, plants either refuse to bloom at all or produce a small number of small flowers. Often, a daylily that previously bloomed beautifully changes its habits when it finds itself under the canopy of an overgrown tree or a new building.
Daylilies are planted at a distance of 60-70 cm, and large varieties even at a distance of 1 m from each other, as they grow over time.
Look at the photo of planting daylilies and caring for them, where this process is demonstrated:
Another common mistake- excessive deepening of the root collar. It is known that daylilies planted to a depth of more than 3 cm bloom worse. If you try really hard and pour a layer of soil 8-10 cm thick over the root collar, the bush may completely refuse to bloom. To avoid these troubles, it is advisable to check the planting depth every spring and, if necessary, rake the soil from the base of the bushes, and sometimes even lift or replant the plants.
You need to know how to care for daylilies, because... the health and strength of flowering depends on this. Daylily does not require special care. In dry weather, like most plants, it requires watering. The rhizomes grow upward, so from time to time it is necessary to add soil to the bushes. Daylilies overwinter without shelter. They grow in one place for 7-8 years or more.
The flowers will be larger if the plants receive enough moisture. Watering is especially important in spring, early summer and during flowering. Instead of watering little and often, it is better to do it every week or even once every 2 weeks, but generously. Mulching with compost will help retain moisture. The soil at a depth of 8-10 cm should be constantly slightly moist, then the daylilies will feel comfortable and enjoy good flowering.
Don't forget to pick off wilted flowers. Plants that do not have to spend energy on producing seeds will demonstrate their splendor to the fullest.
Watch a video about daylilies, where experienced gardeners share tips and tricks for proper care:
When to plant daylilies: optimal timing
When to plant daylilies– this is the question all novice gardeners ask. The survival rate and flowering of the plant depends on the choice of the optimal planting date.
In central Russia, it is best to plant or transplant daylilies in May or August. Resist the temptation to buy cheap daylilies in late September or October. A plant planted late may not have time to take root before frost; it will either die in the winter or be sick for a long time next summer.
The plant is propagated by dividing the bush during spring regrowth. For breeding purposes, daylilies are propagated by seeds, but in this case the seedlings will bloom only for 3-4 years.
When and how to feed daylilies- This is a question many gardeners ask. It is necessary to feed these flowers, because the growth and flowering of daylilies depends on proper feeding.
Excess nitrogen fertilizer is undesirable; it causes excessive growth of greenery to the detriment of flowering. Daylilies grown in fertile soil produce more flower stalks with numerous buds, and their flowers are larger.
Before planting daylilies, sand, drainage materials, and peat must be added to heavy clay soils. Poor sandy soils can be improved with humus and peat. When planting, be sure to add complete mineral fertilizer and ash. If necessary - on acidic soils - lime.
Regular application of complex mineral fertilizer at a dose of 50-100 g/m2 will help increase the number of buds on peduncles. Typically, daylilies are fed twice: in early spring and immediately after flowering. It is not recommended to use fertilizers with a high nitrogen content for the first time. This can lead to increased leaf growth at the expense of flowering. Feeding after flowering plays an important role: it influences the formation of new buds and ensures maximum effect next year.
Why does daylily not bloom and what to do to make it bloom?
There may be several reasons why the daylily does not bloom in your garden, and it is not always due to poor care. Poor flowering of daylilies is often caused by poor choice of variety, so when purchasing, you should try to get the most detailed information from the seller. For example, evergreen varieties developed in warm areas of the United States may not survive our winter. Surviving plants sometimes struggle to recover until late summer, when it is too late to bloom.
The answer to the question why daylily does not bloom and what to do to make it bloom lies in one simple thing. Pay attention to flowering times. Our summer is short, and some late-flowering varieties do not have time to bloom. It is better to purchase daylilies with early, medium or, in extreme cases, medium-late flowering period. The ability of these plants to undergo remontant flowering, when after short periods of rest the bushes are again covered with flowers, also depends on climatic conditions. In central Russia, repeated flowering of many remontant varieties can be observed only in rare cases.
Many people have seen large perennial clumps of daylilies. They continue to bloom, but their flower stalks usually become lower and their flowers smaller. You can restore its former beauty by dividing overgrown bushes in a timely manner. It is better to do this every 5-6 years. Delenki with 3-4 rosettes of leaves bloom the next season.
Flower growers without experience are better off starting with dormant daylilies, whose foliage dies off for the winter - they are reliable and hardy. If you are faced with a choice between ordinary diploid and artificially obtained tetraploid (with an increased number of chromosomes) daylilies, then keep in mind that the latter are distinguished by larger and brighter flowers, but, as a rule, grow more slowly.
Why do daylily leaves turn yellow and what to do about it?
There may be several reasons why daylily leaves turn yellow: plant damage by various diseases and improper growing conditions. Let's talk about the second option in more detail.
Daylilies are unpretentious, they can grow in partial shade and even in the shade, but only with good lighting will they bloom for a long time and profusely. Sunlight is especially important during the midday hours. Cultivated garden soils without stagnant water are suitable for cultivation.
Daylilies are considered unpretentious, hardy plants that do not require careful care. It is assumed that they can grow and bloom for many years without transplanting or sheltering for the winter. However, new foreign varieties are not always as undemanding.
The answer to the question of why daylily leaves turn yellow and what to do about this problem lies in choosing a place to plant this flower. Daylilies are quite peaceful and get along well in mixborders with other perennials. But proximity to trees and large shrubs has a bad effect on their condition and flowering. The aggressive root system of tall competitors quickly takes away moisture and nutrients from daylilies.
Daylilies are able to survive in a wide variety of conditions, but only in loose, loamy, well-drained soil rich in organic matter do they appear in all their splendor. They grow best in a neutral or slightly acidic environment.
Low, swampy areas where water stagnates for a long time after rains are completely unsuitable for planting varietal daylilies. In such places, you can try planting plants on raised beds.
In conclusion, look at a selection of photos of daylily flowers in the garden, where they are presented in single and group plantings:
In its natural habitat, daylily is a rather unpretentious flower, but an artificially grown plant is quite vulnerable to diseases and pests.
Main causes of illnesses
Causes of daylily disease can be:
- bacteria;
- fungi;
- viruses;
- nematodes;
- ecological problems;
- insect pests.
A sharp deterioration in the condition of the plant over several days most likely indicates a viral or bacterial origin. To protect other crops, diseased plants must be destroyed immediately.
Slow deterioration of the plant's condition can be caused by environmental problems or fungal diseases.
Visual inspection of plants and correlation with the description of diseased plants will help make the correct diagnosis and plan treatment of the disease.
Common diseases
Finding out the specific cause can be quite difficult, since an unhealthy appearance can be the result of several diseases. But any disease is much easier to prevent than to eliminate.
Root collar rot
One of the most common diseases is root collar rot. Infection occurs with the help of pests or due to poor air circulation in the soil. The cause of the disease can also be excessively deep planting and freezing of the roots. Quite often, the disease manifests itself with yellowed leaves.
For treatment, it is necessary to reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizers, avoid water retention when watering, and slightly dry the root part of the daylily before planting it in the ground.
Sometimes the disease is not limited to yellowing of the leaves, but takes on a more severe form, expressed by the appearance of rotting roots and a softened stem in the lower part of the plant. In this case, the daylily should be dug up immediately. After which you need to remove the damaged areas and treat the cut areas with a disinfectant. For this, a strong solution of potassium permanganate is suitable, in which the root and the diseased part of the stem are placed for 20 minutes. After disinfection, the culture is carefully dried in the shade in the open air. This should be done for 2-3 days until the sore spots dry out and become hard.
The cured flower should be planted in a different place, since infectious agents may remain in the same place.
Leaf striping - streak
Leaf streaking is classified as a fungal disease. In this case, yellow streaks appear in the center of the leaves, which subsequently acquire a reddish-brown color. The plant does not die, but the diseased leaves fall off. The source of the disease can also be insects, it can also be the result of unfavorable weather conditions or a consequence of violating the rules of caring for the plant.
Sometimes treatment is carried out by treating the plant with fungicidal preparations with the concomitant removal of the affected leaf blades.
Rust
Fungal diseases also include the appearance of so-called rust on buds and leaves. It looks like yellow-orange pustules. The daylily does not die, but its growth slows down and it stops blooming.
Fungal spores are transmitted by air. They take root very well on valerian plants. For this reason, they should not be planted next to daylilies.
At the moment, no methods have been identified to combat the developed disease, so much attention should be paid to preventive measures to prevent the disease.
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is manifested by a change in the color of foliage. Instead of a healthy green color, it takes on a pale yellow color. The reason for these changes is a lack of chlorophyll. Yellowing can be focal or widespread throughout the entire leaf blade. The plant may completely die from this. Chlorosis should not be confused with the natural yellowing of old leaves.
The cause of the disease can be soil oversaturated with lime with a lack of iron content with a certain alkaline reaction, which impedes the movement of mineral salts. Daylilies can also develop chlorosis due to malnutrition of the root system, excess or lack of moisture, soil hypothermia, toxic substances (herbicides), and insects.
Chlorosis can also occur due to infection. In this case, the spots on the leaves are colorless. As experienced flower growers say, this disease also develops when the roots are injured during transplantation, failure to comply with the deadlines for digging up the crop, or planting in heavy, water-saturated soil, especially when it is pre-flavored with manure.
To combat a disease, you need to understand its source. Perhaps getting rid of the problem by slightly acidifying the soil or enriching it with iron preparations. Removing excess moisture and killing insect pests can also help.
Spraying the plant with Ferovit, which contains nitrogen and iron chelate, helps with chlorosis.
Dangerous pests - daylily mosquitoes and thrips - lay their larvae in the buds, after which the buds stop growing in length, expand and become deformed.
Disease Prevention
Reduce the risk of disease Following simple rules will help:
- timely removal of faded buds and yellowed leaves at the tips;
- cutting off underdeveloped shoots;
- destruction of weeds in the near-stem zone;
- sparse planting of crops;
- periodic disinfection of garden tools;
- destruction of plants with signs of viral diseases;
- optimal application of nitrogen fertilizing;
- watering under the stem and not on the foliage.
Non-communicable problems
When daylily leaves turn yellow and their tips dry out, this may not be the cause of infections. For example, as the fan divides, the leaves begin to crack, age and die. Because of this, they acquire a yellow color. Frost-damaged leaves may also turn yellow.
Other problems not related to daylily diseases include:
- uneven flower coloring;
- horizontal or vertical rupture of the stem or its cracking;
- grassing;
- premature, too early opening of the flower;
- insufficient saturation of the sepals with floral pigment.
These problems can arise due to temperature disturbances, irregular watering, unbalanced feeding, and even due to stressful situations to which this plant reacts painfully.
If you follow simple rules for caring for the plant and carrying out the necessary preventive measures, the daylily will fully reveal its pristine beauty and will delight you with its gorgeous blooms and healthy greenery for many years in the summer.
See below for proper daylily care.
We are accustomed to the idea that daylilies are unpretentious, drought-resistant, and not susceptible to diseases and pests. I often hear the words of the famous Czech writer and botanist Karel Capek quoted, who called the daylily “the flower of an intelligent lazy person.” These words can fully be attributed to the species of daylilies. They will grow just fine without us.
“set it and forget it” interventions. But if we want to grow in
modern hybrid varieties in your gardens, you will have to work hard. By the way, Capek died in 1938 and never saw modern hybrid daylilies. So we forget his words and take care of our pets with even greater zeal and diligence.
As is known, a strong and healthy plant located in
favorable conditions, able to resist diseases and pests. Species daylilies have good natural resistance, but modern hybrids are more vulnerable, and when grown in unfavorable conditions they can become susceptible to diseases. If a plant experiences stress, its immunity decreases and, as a result, its ability to resist colonization and infection by harmful organisms is lost. In addition, growing a monoculture increases the risk of diseases and pests by almost 5 times. That's why most
The main and important measure for the prevention of daylily diseases is
correct agricultural technology.
One of the most common diseases of daylilies in our gardens is LEAF STREAK - LEAF STREAK.
You can come to this conclusion by looking at photographs of daylilies from different gardens. Signs of this disease are often visible on
So, let's figure out what kind of LEAF STREAK disease this is,
which not only spoils the appearance of the daylily bush, reducing its
decorative, but can also cause its death. After all, as you know, plant leaves participate in photosynthesis. With severe development of the disease, the leaf dies, and as a result, the death of the plant is possible.
LEAF STREAK - A FUNGAL DISEASE that affects leaves
daylilies. The disease is caused by the fungus Aureobasidium microstictum. Disease
appears in warm and humid weather.
Moreover, varieties differ in their susceptibility to this disease.
SYMPTOMS:
Initially, the disease appears as yellowing of the tips of the leaves and spreads along the central vein of the leaf. Then
Reddish-brown spots are formed surrounded by yellow halos. Damaged areas may coalesce and spread across the leaf in stripes, and complete leaf dieback may occur as the disease progresses. The fungal spores overwinter in fallen leaves and stems at the base and can again infect new shoots in the spring. We often argue about whether it is worth pruning daylilies in winter. All flower growers have different opinions on this matter. But, in my opinion, the less foliage we leave, the less likely the daylily will become infected in the spring. And, of course, if in the previous
summer, some diseases of daylilies were recorded in the garden, spend
preventive treatment of daylilies in spring!
PREVENTION
You can use FITOSPORIN M - a microbiological preparation intended to protect plants from a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases. We process the plant and water the soil. Two treatments are usually sufficient.
Now on sale there are more modern drugs of similar action ALIRIN - against fungal diseases and GAMAIR - against bacterial diseases.
It is difficult for a non-specialist to discern what disease the plant had. Therefore, it is better to use both drugs simultaneously.
First treatment: 1 tablet of Alirin and Gamaira per 1 liter of water (1+1 scheme for 1 liter). Second treatment after 7-10 days. Scheme 2+2 for 1 l.
If, nevertheless, favorable conditions have developed for the occurrence of this disease, then AT THE FIRST SIGNS:
REMOVE (cut) INFECTED LEAVES partially (with a reserve) or completely. In most cases, such measures are sufficient to slow the spread of the disease. Disputes fly badly. If the leaves are dry, the disease does not spread. Therefore, to prevent this disease, it is necessary to minimize irrigation by sprinkling. At low humidity and air temperatures above 30 degrees, the development of the disease stops. Infected leaves should not be composted; it is better to burn or bury them.
WE CARRY OUT TREATMENT WITH FUNGICIDES. American experts recommend drugs to combat this disease. Unfortunately, we don't have them for sale. However, knowing the active substance of these drugs - MANCOZEB and THIOPHANATE METHYL - you can easily find analogues in our stores.
The active ingredient Mancozeb is contained in:
RIDOMIL-GOLD,
KURZAT M,
DITAN M-45,
PROFIT SP.
The active ingredient methyl thiophanate is contained in:
TOPSIN M (most effective during preventive treatment, before the development of the pathogen).
After finishing work with infected leaves, tools and hands must be disinfected! Can be used to disinfect instruments
alcohol, vodka, potassium permanganate (dark solution), Whiteness (rinse with water after it).
If you have additional information about this disease, please share. After all, our joint experience will help us grow beautiful and healthy
daylilies!
We are accustomed to the idea that daylilies are unpretentious, drought-resistant, and not susceptible to diseases and pests. I often hear the words of the famous Czech writer and botanist Karel Capek quoted, who called the daylily “the flower of an intelligent lazy person.” These words can fully be attributed to the species of daylilies. They will grow well without our intervention according to the “plant and forget” principle. But if we want to grow modern hybrid varieties in our gardens, we will have to work hard. By the way, Capek died in 1938 and never saw modern hybrid daylilies. So we forget his words and take care of our pets with even greater zeal and diligence.
As you know, a strong and healthy plant, located in favorable conditions, is able to resist diseases and pests. Species daylilies have good natural resistance, but modern hybrids are more vulnerable, and when grown in unfavorable conditions they can become susceptible to diseases. If a plant experiences stress, its immunity decreases and, as a result, its ability to resist colonization and infection by harmful organisms is lost. In addition, growing a monoculture increases the risk of diseases and pests by almost 5 times. That is why the most important and important measure for the prevention of daylily diseases is correct agricultural technology.
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SYMPTOMS:
Initially, the disease appears as yellowing of the tips of the leaves and spreads along the central vein of the leaf. Reddish-brown spots then form, surrounded by yellow halos. Damaged areas may coalesce and spread across the leaf in stripes, and complete leaf dieback may occur as the disease progresses. The fungal spores overwinter in fallen leaves and stems at the base and can again infect new shoots in the spring. We often argue about whether it is worth pruning daylilies in winter. All flower growers have different opinions on this matter. But, in my opinion, the less foliage we leave, the less likely the daylily will become infected in the spring. And, of course, if any diseases of daylilies were recorded in the garden last summer, carry out preventive treatment of daylilies in the spring!
PREVENTION
Preventive treatment in the Moscow region can begin on May 15, just at this time daylilies have already begun to actively grow.
You can use FITOSPORIN M - a microbiological preparation intended to protect plants from a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases. We process the plant and water the soil. Two treatments are usually sufficient. Interval - 7-10 days.
Now on sale there are more modern drugs with a similar effect ALIRIN - against fungal diseases and GAMAIR - against bacterial diseases. It is difficult for a non-specialist to distinguish what disease the plant had. Therefore, it is better to use both drugs simultaneously.
First treatment: 1 tablet of Alirin and Gamaira per 1 liter of water (1+1 scheme for 1 liter).
Second treatment after 7-10 days. Scheme 2+2 for 1 l.
If, nevertheless, favorable conditions have developed for the occurrence of this disease, then
AT THE FIRST SIGNS:
- DELETE(cut) INFECTED LEAVES partially (with a reserve) or completely. In most cases, such measures are sufficient to slow the spread of the disease. Disputes fly badly. If the leaves are dry, the disease does not spread. Therefore, to prevent this disease, it is necessary to minimize irrigation by sprinkling. At low humidity and air temperatures above 30 degrees, the development of the disease stops. Infected leaves should not be composted; it is better to burn or bury them.
- WE TREAT WITH FUNGICIDES. American experts recommend drugs to combat this disease. Unfortunately, we don't have them for sale. However, knowing the active substance of these drugs - MANCOZEB and THIOPHANATE METHYL - you can easily find analogues in our stores.
The active ingredient Mancozeb is contained in: RIDOMIL-GOLD, KURZAT M, DITAN M-45, PROFIT SP. The active ingredient methyl thiophanate is contained in: TOPSIN M (most effective during preventive treatment, before the development of the pathogen).
On the Internet you can find recommendations for treating plants against this disease with Fundazol, Skor, and Copper-containing preparations. I can't say anything. Didn't use it.
After finishing work with infected leaves, tools and hands must be disinfected! To disinfect instruments, you can use alcohol, vodka, potassium permanganate (dark solution), white (rinse with water afterwards).
There is probably not a single gardener who does not know about daylilies. They can be seen both in grandmother’s front gardens and in modern gardens. They say about it: “the flower of an intelligent lazy person,” “planted and forgotten.” Flower growers tell each other myths that if daylilies are fed, they will not bloom. This is all wrong!
The original appearance of the daylily has changed beyond recognition. Modern hybrids require more careful attention, but they will not cause great difficulties. In a short growing season, they should grow green mass, form flower stalks, bloom with gorgeous flowers and set seeds (if pollination has taken place). And our winters! This is a huge stress for hybrid varieties.
The fact is that most modern hybrids come from the southern states of America. In a word, these overseas sissies simply need our help so that they can fully reveal all their gardening qualities in the difficult conditions of Central Russia. With just six right steps, you can grow this beautiful perennial in your gardens without much effort.
Step 1 - choosing a landing site
Some gardeners claim that daylilies will grow well in partial shade and even shade. Of course, such a place is suitable for species of daylilies, which naturally grow on forest edges and among shrubs. But if we are talking about modern hybrids, then in our climate only in the sun will they be able to fully demonstrate all their garden qualities. Hybrid daylilies should receive sunbathing for at least 6 hours a day. However, it should be remembered that when planted in the sun, dark-colored varieties and varieties with dark, almost black eyes burn and acquire a characteristic shine of the petals. Almost white varieties are best planted in full sun. In this case, the barely noticeable shades of pink, yellow, and melon color present in the color of such varieties fade in the sun, and the daylily becomes almost white.
Step 2 - landing
Daylilies prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5-7. On strongly acidic and alkaline soils they will be suppressed.
The best time for planting new daylilies and dividing old bushes is spring, as well as the end of August - beginning of September. At later dates, there is a possibility of the plant dying in winter, because It takes about a month for daylilies to take root. When planting in autumn, you can play it safe and make a hillock with earth or leaf humus, pouring a mound 10-15 cm high on the base of the plant. In the spring, remove the hillock. It is better not to use peat and sand.
If the need arises, daylilies, even flowering bushes, can be replanted throughout the summer season. After transplanting, it is better to shade the plant.
If you have nutritious garden soil on your site, then to plant a daylily it is enough to dig a hole large enough for the roots of the plant to fit freely in it. On heavy soils, make a planting hole twice as large as the root system and fill it with pre-prepared soil. To improve the mechanical composition of heavy loams, they need to be mixed with high-moor neutral peat and sand in a ratio of 3:2:1. Add leaf humus and compost.
At the bottom of the planting hole we form a mound and place the daylily on it, carefully straightening the roots in different directions. We begin to fill the soil with soil, squeezing the roots on all sides with our hands, but do not fill the entire hole at once. We spill water, add soil, and compact the soil again. When planting on heavy soils, we deepen the root collar by about 2-3 cm. On sandy soils, the planting depth can be 4-5 cm. You need to add a couple of handfuls of ash to the planting hole. As you know, ash contains important macroelements such as phosphorus and potassium, which are necessary for plants to grow their root systems.
The distance between plants when planting is 60-70 cm. For low-growing border varieties, this distance can be reduced to 30-40 cm. While the clumps of daylilies grow, the free spaces between them can be occupied by annuals or perennials, which can then be easily removed.
In the first year, it is recommended to remove flower stalks from daylilies so that the plants take root faster. However, removing a peduncle completely can provoke the appearance of a new one. On my daylilies I leave a peduncle with 2-3 buds and pluck out the rest. The plant fulfills the “flowering-reproduction” program inherent in it and does not lose much strength.
If the planting material has been stored for a long time, and the roots have dried out and shriveled, then soak them in water for several hours before planting. As soon as the roots swell and are saturated with life-giving moisture, you can begin planting.
Step 3 - watering
Mature daylily bushes have a high degree of drought resistance due to their powerful, deep and branched root system. Its fleshy, thickened roots are able to accumulate a sufficient supply of water. Daylilies need to be watered as needed, depending on weather conditions and the composition of the soil in your garden. Mulching the plantings will retain moisture and reduce the frequency of watering.
During the period of budding and flowering, the need of daylilies for water increases greatly. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely. Sharp fluctuations in soil moisture can often lead to drying out of some of the buds on the peduncle. That is why, during the period of budding and flowering, uniform watering for daylilies is more important than ever.
Daylilies, like other perennials, do not like shallow watering. It is better to water less often, but correctly, saturating the soil with moisture to a depth of 20-30 cm. It is best to water daylilies early in the morning or in the evening. Do not water during the midday heat. The optimal temperature for watering is +20+25 o C. When watering with cold water, the roots of plants experience shock.
Each gardener decides for himself which way to water daylilies - “at the root” or using the “sprinkling” method. There is an opinion that drops of water falling on a daylily flower during rain or watering cause damage and the formation of discolored spots on the petals. In my garden, I sprinkle water my daylilies throughout the night, finishing early in the morning. The soil is evenly wetted, and by the time the flower opens, all the petals have time to dry. There are no spots or damage on high-quality varieties, and if a variety is prone to stains, then this is a drawback of the specific variety, and not the method of watering.
Step 4 - feeding
There are no uniform recommendations regarding feeding daylilies. Mature bushes and freshly planted cuttings need different amounts of nutrients. The mechanical composition of the soil should also be taken into account. Improved loam holds nutrients better, and on sandy soils they are quickly washed out, especially in rainy summers.
For normal growth and development, daylilies need balanced nutrition, which is provided by macro- and microelements. To fertilize daylilies, you can use both organic (mullein, horse manure, herbal infusions) and mineral fertilizers. Each gardener decides for himself what suits him best. You can use long-acting complex mineral fertilizers, which will provide the plant with nutrition throughout the entire growing season, as well as water-soluble complex fertilizers with microelements in chelated form. The latter are quickly absorbed by plants during root feeding, and leaf spraying (foliar feeding) gives results within 3 hours. But, unfortunately, the effect of water-soluble fertilizers does not last long, up to two weeks. Root feeding can be alternated with leaf feeding.
To use fertilizers correctly, it is necessary to understand the effect macro- and microelements have on plants. The three main nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The plant needs them in the first place, since they are consumed in large quantities for growth and life.
An important rule: before feeding plants with liquid and granular fertilizers, they must be watered well. In dry form, the fertilizer should be scattered between the bushes, then embedded in the soil and again shed generously. You need to sprinkle the fertilizer very carefully so that the granules do not fall into the center of the leaf rosette.
To feed daylilies, you can use the standard scheme:
1st feeding - spring, active growth.
This is done when the soil warms up to +6+8 degrees Celsius, at the end of April - beginning of May. Everything depends on weather conditions. Usually, the leaves of daylilies at this time have already grown to a height of 10-15 cm. We use a complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as microelements. Nitrogen will give a good start to growth, and phosphorus and potassium will promote the development of the root system.
2nd feeding - budding period.
To obtain better flowers during this period, you can use fertilizers with less nitrogen, with a shift towards potassium. Also during this period, daylilies need trace elements such as calcium (CaO) and magnesium (MgO).
3 feeding - end of August - beginning of September.
At this time, daylilies enter a short period of rest. It is necessary to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which stimulate the formation of flower buds for flowering next year, and also increase the resistance of plants to unfavorable winter conditions. You can use an autumn complex fertilizer with a low nitrogen content and a high percentage of phosphorus and potassium. Ash is perfect for autumn feeding. It does not contain nitrogen, but contains about 30 macro- and microelements. Now phosphorus is needed more than ever by those daylilies that were divided. It promotes the formation of the root system and accelerates the survival of plants.
In rainy summers, when nutrients are washed out of the soil especially quickly, you can do foliar feeding - spraying on the leaf. After all, as you know, liquid foliar feeding is several times more effective than root feeding. Foliar feeding can be done only in the morning or evening. For these purposes, you can use a concentrated liquid humatized fertilizer with macro- and microelements, as well as a complex water-soluble fertilizer. You can use infusions of chicken manure, mullein, nettle, horsetail or any fermented herb. It is necessary to spray from the reverse side of the leaf, where the largest number of stomata are located on the leaves, with the help of which plants absorb nutrients.
When caring for daylilies, you can use standard feeding schemes or observe the daylilies, and at the first sign of a lack of any nutrients, provide them with first aid.
How can you tell which nutrients your daylilies are lacking?
If the leaves become smaller, lose their intense green color, growth slows down and the bush blooms poorly - this indicates a lack of nitrogen. If there is a lack of potassium in the soil, the edges of the leaves turn brown. Old leaves turn yellow and die.
Freshly planted daylilies can be fertilized only 7-10 days after planting. If you have fresh, nutritious soil, you don’t need to feed daylilies in the first year.
Whatever methods of feeding daylilies you prefer, always remember that you need to use fertilizers wisely. The most correct decision is to conduct a soil analysis on the site, but usually few people do this. It is better to underfeed daylilies than to overfeed them. Increasing green mass can be detrimental to flowering.
Step 5 - mulching
The use of mulch in flower beds has recently become increasingly popular. It suppresses the growth of weeds, prevents overheating of the soil and plant roots, and reduces the evaporation of moisture from the soil surface. Typically, mulch from pine and larch bark of the middle fraction is used. The latter is more durable. A 60 liter bag is enough to fill 1 square meter. m of flower bed in a layer 5-6 cm thick. If you use mulch in your flower beds, then when feeding daylilies with granular fertilizers, you need to move it away from the bush and make sure that the granules get deep into the soil and not onto the mulch. It is also necessary to remember that as mulch decomposes, it absorbs nutrients from the soil, especially nitrogen. Therefore, when feeding mulched plantings, the amount of nitrogen must be increased. During the season, grass clippings can be used as mulch. It quickly overheats and saturates the soil with nutrients. There is one drawback - the process of overheating the grass occurs quite quickly and it is necessary to frequently renew the mulching layer. There is also a possibility of introducing a large number of weed seeds into the flower garden if flowering plants have been mowed down.
Step 6 - pruning, preparing for winter
Beginner daylily growers are very concerned about the question: when is it better to prune daylilies so that they overwinter well? In autumn or spring? Based on my personal experience, I can say that the timing of pruning in no way affects the quality of wintering daylilies. You can do this at any time. If you decide to prune daylilies in the fall, the most important thing is not to prune too short and too early, otherwise the daylilies will begin to grow again, which is undesirable due to the approaching winter. Usually in October, when the first frosts arrive, daylily leaves are cut to a height of 10-15 cm from ground level. If pruning has been postponed until spring, then as soon as all the snow has melted, you need to quickly remove the soggy and dried leaves. The process of rotting on the leaves can spread to the root collar of the daylily.
Another question that haunts daylily lovers is: what types of daylilies overwinter best? Daylilies of all types winter well in our climate if there is sufficient snow cover. There is no need to carry out any special measures to prepare for winter (protection and shelter) of adult bushes, except for the hilling of new autumn plantings in the first winter. The most important thing is that there are no prolonged thaws in the middle of winter, and that there is enough snow during severe frosts. Dormant varieties sleep during the winter, and evergreen varieties wake up during the thaw period and can begin to grow. In the absence of snow, subsequent frosts can destroy the awakened buds. But it's not all that scary. Usually in the spring, new, replacement buds appear on the root collar, and the daylily successfully grows and even blooms. True, there are also unpleasant situations when the root collar completely rots. Fortunately, this happens quite rarely. Despite all the vicissitudes of our climate, you should not give up growing evergreen daylilies, because among them there are real masterpieces.
In conclusion, I want to say that daylilies will not die without your care. They will grow and even bloom. But if you want modern hybrids to look healthy, well-groomed and delight with abundant flowering, give them a little of your precious time. Believe me, they are worth it.
