Masonry of a house made of aerated concrete. How to build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands? Insulation and waterproofing

Regular readers of our portal are well aware that as part of the project we are building a modern and energy-efficient house made of aerated concrete. After completion of the so-called work. “zero cycle”, which you can find in, we moved on to the next most important stage - laying aerated concrete walls.

The purpose of this material is to go beyond and, with the help of experts, tell you how to properly build a house from aerated concrete. In a master class format, professional builders will share with you the secrets of their craft. Namely:

  • What tools are needed to build a house from aerated concrete blocks.
  • How to lay the first row of masonry correctly.
  • What to make jumpers and armored belts from.

Tools needed to build a house from aerated concrete

One of the key features of aerated concrete is the ease of processing blocks. Aerated concrete can be sawed, grinded, sanded, tapped, with an inexpensive set of simple hand tools in your arsenal. At the same time, when choosing a tool, you should remember that the quality and speed of work largely depend on its characteristics.

The minimum set includes:

  • Trowel. Using this tool, an adhesive composition is evenly applied to the surface of aerated concrete blocks. The trowel ensures strict rationing of the mixture, which guarantees fine joints of the masonry. For convenience, speed and quality of work, the width of the working part of the trowel should correspond to the thickness of the aerated concrete block.

  • Saw on aerated concrete. A saw for aerated concrete blocks is a hand tool - a hacksaw, which differs from a saw for wood in the thickness of the blade and the shape of the saw teeth.

Using a saw, you can cut an aerated concrete block in half, cut additional elements from the blocks, and make the necessary technological protrusions in the block.

  • Mallet. A rubber hammer allows you to upset and level the stacked blocks vertically and horizontally without damaging their surface.

  • Planer for aerated concrete. This is a special tool necessary for grinding down small irregularities and height differences in aerated concrete.

The saw blades are fixed in the working part (sole) of the plane. Due to the multidirectional position of the teeth, the tool grinds down the surface of the aerated concrete block without leaving deep grooves on it.

  • Sanding board. The tool allows you to sand roughness on the surface of aerated concrete or rub the surface after using a plane.

  • Bubble level. The tool is necessary to control the geometry of the masonry (the evenness of the plane of the laid blocks) both horizontally and vertically. The optimal length of the bubble level is from 600 to 800 mm.

  • Wall chaser. The tool is used for quickly making grooves for laying reinforcement (reinforcing masonry under window openings), as well as for cutting cable channels for laying utility routes, for example, electrical wiring.

In addition to the above tools, to build a house from aerated concrete you will need:

  • Spatula - it is necessary to remove excess mortar from the seams and grout the surface of the blocks from dirt and chips.
  • Scrub brush - with its help All dust must be removed from the blocks, remaining after grinding and grouting surfaces.
  • A square, which is used to mark places for sawing blocks with a saw on aerated concrete.
  • Marking construction lace mooring.

How to correctly lay the first row of aerated concrete blocks

The most important stage in the construction of an aerated concrete house is correct laying of the first row of aerated concrete blocks, because from this depends entirely on the correct geometry overlying rows. The work is divided into a number of sequential steps, the first of which is the placement of waterproofing on the foundation.

Waterproofing material can be pasted, coated or rolled. Practice shows that the most technologically advanced in use is roll waterproofing, which is simply rolled out on the surface of the foundation.

Waterproofing is necessary to prevent capillary rise of moisture from the foundation into load-bearing walls.

Laying aerated concrete walls begins with laying corner blocks, but before that it is necessary to make markings in order to align the contours of the walls in accordance with the project.

To do this, stakes (so-called cast-offs) are driven into the ground at the corners of the foundation and a marking cord is attached to them with screws.

The laces at the corners should intersect at right angles. To check the geometry, the width, length and diagonals are measured (they must be equal).

Important: installation of cast-off is required. If you try to measure the geometry of the walls using blocks placed in the corners, they may move during the measurement process, and the result will be inaccurate.

One of the most common mistakes when installing cast-offs is the installation of pallets with blocks inside the perimeter of the foundation, for example, placing aerated concrete on a slab. As a result, it is impossible to accurately measure the diagonals.

After the waterproofing has been installed and the contours of the building have been stripped, we proceed to the second stage - measuring the difference in height of the foundation. To do this, you can use an optical or laser level, or get by with a regular hydraulic level.

The difference in foundation heights (between the highest point and the lowest) should not exceed 30-40 mm. If the height difference is greater, then it is necessary to level the foundation plane using a concrete mixture.

The third stage is laying corner blocks. Very it is important to lay corner blocks with millimeter accuracy. If you do not follow this rule and lay blocks with a height difference of even 2-3 mm, then as the walls are erected and errors accumulate at the finish, we will get a significant discrepancy in the level of the upper rows of masonry.

Vitaly Bykov

Unlike the foundation, where height differences may occur, aerated concrete blocks have high geometric accuracy. The manufacturing accuracy of an aerated concrete block is + - 1-2 mm. Because the foundation plane can vary by centimeters, we need to lay the first row of blocks in such a way as to level out this error and bring the entire row to 0 on the horizon. To do this, the first row of blocks is laid on a cement-sand mortar (cement-sand mortar) with a thickness of 2 to 5 cm. Moreover, the thickness of the mixture can vary depending on the unevenness of the foundation.

Having measured the difference in the heights of the foundation, we found the highest point from which we begin laying the corner blocks on the central substation. The intersection of the lace shows the location of the corner blocks. When laying the blocks on the DSP, they are pressed down with a rubber mallet.

The horizontality of the stacked blocks is controlled using a bubble level. Only after the corner stones have been accurately positioned and the mortar has set can you begin to fill the entire first row with aerated concrete.

After laying the corner blocks, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical deviations again. We are guided by the rule: “it’s better to try everything on seven times than to make a mistake once.”

To continue laying the first row, you need to wait until the DSP sets under the laid corner blocks. This may take 6-8 hours. If you start laying earlier, the corner blocks may move.

The laying of the remaining blocks is carried out along a stretched cord. At the same time, make sure that the blocks do not pull on the lace. It is optimal when a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the block and the tensioned thread. Otherwise, a displaced lace will lead to deviation of the entire row.

If the distance between the corner blocks exceeds 10 meters, then between them, so that the lace does not sag, a third is laid - an intermediate block, to which the thread clings.

Important: masonry on the central fiber structure is allowed only for the installation of the first row of aerated concrete blocks, which are in direct contact with the foundation. In the future, all work is carried out using a special adhesive for aerated concrete, which ensures a thin joint of the masonry of 1-3 mm and thereby minimizes cold bridges.

Before installing an aerated concrete block, it needs to be prepared. To do this, take a spatula and remove dirt from the block, brush off the dust with a brush.

Apply glue to the vertical seams using a trowel.

We install the block without connecting it to the already laid one. We level the block using a building level and, only after the block is leveled horizontally, we join it with the previous one, pushing it down with a mallet to get a single horizontal plane.

To fill the gap between the sides, into which a whole block cannot be laid, we cut out an additional block using an aerated concrete hacksaw.

The additional block is also placed on the DSP, and the ends are coated with glue.

As a result, we have an absolutely flat horizontal surface of the first row, in which the top is set to 0, and the difference is eliminated due to the DSP layer.

To begin laying the second row, you need to wait until the cement-sand mixture hardens and gains strength. This takes 6-8 hours. If the thickness of the CPS is more than 2 cm and under unfavorable weather conditions (dampness, rain, low temperatures), it may take 24 hours for the mixture to dry completely.

Vitaly Bykov

Careful preparation of the first row ensures high laying speed and accurate geometry of all subsequent rows.

Before laying the second row, the surface of the first row of blocks is prepared (leveled) using an aerated concrete planer and a sanding board. The plane grinds down uneven areas at the joints of the blocks.

Sanding with a sanding board in a circular motion gives the blocks a final horizontal surface. Due to the abrasive, small circular grooves remain on the block, which ensures better adhesion of the adhesive composition to the aerated concrete.

Laying load-bearing and non-load-bearing partitions, manufacturing lintels and armored belts

Load-bearing partitions are laid when laying the first row. Non-load-bearing walls (partitions) can be installed after the load-bearing walls have been erected.

Non-load-bearing partitions are attached to load-bearing walls using flexible special metal connections. Bonds are established after applying the adhesive composition by pressing into the composition. Flexible connections for aerated concrete are made of stainless steel. They have perforation, which ensures better adhesion of ties in the masonry.

Bandaging of load-bearing walls and load-bearing partitions is carried out over the entire width of the block (wall thickness) through 1 row.

The depth of the vertical (die) ligation of blocks in the wall should be at least 125 mm.

Important: to lay aerated concrete on a thin adhesive joint, use a trowel. Before laying, the blocks must be dust-free.

Vitaly Bykov

In order for the adhesive composition to completely fill the vertical seam, the end of the block is coated with the mixture not over the entire surface, but not reaching 1-2 cm to the bottom. The stacked block is placed on its edge at an angle to the installed one and only after that is lowered down. As a result: the glue in the vertical seam is evenly distributed over the entire surface. If you apply glue to the entire end, then when the block is lowered, the excess glue will be squeezed out, and the thickness of the vertical seam in the lower part will increase.

When constructing window sill openings one row before creating the opening, it is necessary to reinforce the masonry. To do this, the masonry is grooved (the size of the groove is 40x40 mm), reinforcement with a diameter of at least 8 mm is placed in the groove, and the groove is then filled with DSP.

The Mechtaevo company carries out turnkey construction of aerated concrete houses according to its own individual projects, developed based on the customer’s wishes. We use our practical experience and modern technologies to build reliable, warm and comfortable suburban housing.

For the construction of houses from aerated concrete blocks, material from the German manufacturer Xella is used. This product is characterized by the following indicators:

    thermal conductivity does not exceed 0.12 W/m°C;

    noise level is reduced to 50 dB;

    frost resistance F100, at least 25 cycles;

    the blocks can withstand the load during the construction of buildings up to 3 floors high, strength class B 2.5 and B 3.5;

    belong to non-combustible materials;

    chemically stable;

    are not subject to rotting and aging.

The high quality of aerated blocks, reasonable price and strict adherence to construction technology allows the company to build houses in 90-180 days, depending on the complexity of the project and the scope of additional work.

A beautiful turnkey aerated concrete house from Mechtaevo

The construction of a house from an aerated block begins with engineering and geological surveys on the site. Using these indicators, you can determine what kind of foundation is needed for the future cottage. The main advantage of aerated concrete is its low weight, which means that suburban housing can be built in places with weak bearing properties of the soil.

In parallel with geosurveys, the project is agreed upon with the customer. Here we give complete freedom of choice: you can choose one of the proposed options for a turnkey aerated concrete house or come to us with your sketch, photograph, or simply express your idea orally. Our architects have the knowledge and experience to bring any buyer's vision to life. And the simplicity of processing aerated blocks allows you to solve even a complex design problem.

After approval, we begin building a house from aerated concrete. The work is carried out according to schedule, at any stage the customer can personally check the condition of the object. If you have any questions or additional requests, you can always contact your personal manager or foreman.

Qualified Mechtaevo teams perform all types of plumbing, electrical and finishing work. We are also ready to provide services for the purchase and delivery of materials for the interior decoration of a house made of aerated blocks. To create a unified style on the site, landscape designers - our partners - are at your service.

Many people, living in small apartments, dream of building their own home. Gradually accumulating financial resources, they come to the idea of ​​starting construction. This is a responsible decision. How to start accomplishing the task? Which material should you prefer? We recommend building a house from aerated block. This will reduce the estimated cost and also significantly simplify the construction process. The characteristics of aerated block are superior to traditional brick and wood, ensuring the stability and durability of a private home.

DIY aerated concrete house: construction features

We are preparing to build a house from aerated concrete blocks - we are studying the standards

When thinking about how to build a house from aerated block, you need to study the regulatory framework:

  • provisions of state standards;
  • requirements of building codes and regulations.

Regulatory documents contain technical information related to the construction of a gas-block house:

  • technical requirements for cellular concrete used as the main building material;
  • requirements for the design and construction of building walls made of porous concrete blocks;
  • characteristics of steel reinforcement used to increase the strength of gas-block walls;
  • recommendations for constructing the foundation of a building to ensure the stability of the structure.

The standards also contain requirements for thermal insulation, noise protection, as well as a set of other issues inextricably linked with the construction of an aerated concrete house. Building houses with your own hands from aerated concrete requires studying the standards.

Aerated block house - advantages and disadvantages


Construction of a house from aerated concrete

Aerated concrete blocks, successfully competing with other building materials, have a number of advantages and, at the same time, have weaknesses. The properties of aerated concrete influence construction technology, as well as the operational characteristics of an aerated concrete building.

Let's consider the main advantages of the material:


Thanks to this set of advantages, many developers build houses with their own hands from aerated concrete. Along with the advantages of aerated blocks, there is a drawback - the ability of an unprotected cellular mass to absorb moisture. Increased humidity of aerated concrete material causes the development of mold and causes freezing.

Having studied the properties of the material, we can conclude that aerated concrete blocks are a good option for building a private house.

We are planning to build a house from aerated concrete with our own hands - where to start work

Before starting construction work, it is necessary to carry out geodetic studies and determine:

  • soil characteristics;
  • ground water level;
  • freezing depth.

Based on the survey results, a building design is developed, documents are prepared, and a permit for construction work is issued. You can use a standard project for the construction of a private house or order the development from professional designers.


Do-it-yourself armored belt for aerated concrete

The standard project contains:

  • floor plans with sections;
  • foundation drawings;
  • documentation for the truss structure;
  • strength calculations;
  • material consumption standards.

The design documentation also contains information on the implementation of finishing activities.

How to bind masonry when building a house with your own hands from aerated concrete

The construction of the walls of a gas-block building is carried out using the following compositions:

  • cement mortar;
  • special glue.

Developers are faced with the question of what is best to use for laying blocks. After all, each composition has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of using glue:


Disadvantages of the adhesive mixture:

  • release of toxins when drying;
  • increased cost compared to cement mortar.

Advantages of using cement mixture:

  • ease of preparation;
  • affordable price.

Weak sides:

  • height differences when laying blocks;
  • increased solution consumption;
  • formation of cold bridges after hardening.

After analyzing the structure of aerated concrete, you can make the right decision - use glue. After all, blocks are characterized by increased porosity and hygroscopicity. The cellular mass quickly absorbs moisture that is present in the cement mortar. As a result, the cement composition loses its working properties, worsening the strength of the masonry. The adhesive mixture is free from these disadvantages. It is applied in a thin layer, which helps to save the binder composition.


Concrete mix for aerated concrete

We build a house with our own hands from aerated blocks - preparatory activities

The construction of a block structure is preceded by preparatory work:

  • supply of electrical energy to the work area;
  • preparing a place for storing gas blocks;
  • organizing a warehouse for building materials and tools;
  • delivery of equipment, inventory, building materials to the site;
  • studying the design features of the future building;
  • familiarization with work methods;
  • organizing safe working conditions on site.

When carrying out preparatory work, the requirements of the project, as well as temperature conditions, should be taken into account. In the hot season at temperatures above 25 ºC, water will be required to constantly wet the surface of the blocks.

We are going to build a house from aerated block with our own hands - we are preparing tools and equipment

The list of materials is limited to three items.


Laying foam concrete blocks

Will be required:

  • gas blocks;
  • glue;
  • fittings

A tool is also required:

  • drill equipped with a mixing attachment;
  • container for preparing glue;
  • “grinder” or metal saw for cutting reinforcement;
  • wall chaser for making grooves for reinforcement;
  • brush for cleaning grooves and surfaces from dust;
  • a rubber mallet designed for pressing blocks;
  • an aerated concrete plane or grater, which speeds up the leveling of the surface;
  • a file that allows you to adjust the size of the block;
  • flat and notched spatulas for grouting and applying glue;
  • cord, level and plumb line to control the quality of masonry.

To remove minor irregularities, you will also need a sanding board.

Do-it-yourself house construction from aerated concrete - work technology


Foundation for a house made of aerated concrete

When building a house with your own hands from aerated blocks, it is important to follow the given sequence of technological operations:

  1. Determine the need for materials. Dividing the total area of ​​the walls (without openings) by the area of ​​the side surface of the block, we obtain the required amount of material, which should be multiplied by a safety factor of 1.05–1.1 and rounded towards a larger value.
  2. Select the type of base. When choosing between a monolithic and a strip base, you should give preference to a strip base. You should dig a trench according to the markings, install the formwork, fill in the gravel bed, place the reinforcement cage in the formwork and fill it with concrete.
  3. Construct the basement of the building. The plinth can be a continuation of the concrete foundation, rising 0.5–0.6 m above the zero level, or it can be constructed of brick laid in four rows on a waterproofed surface of the foundation base.
  4. Build an aerated concrete box. Lay the first row of gas blocks, starting from the corners, check the horizontal level. Cut a groove in the center of the bottom row, clean it and lay the reinforcement. Lay the next rows on the adhesive mixture, making reinforcement every 5 rows.
  5. Reinforce the masonry in the area of ​​the openings with reinforcement. Reinforce the openings intended for mounting window frames and door frames with a steel profile in the upper part. When installing corners, provide a supporting surface on each side of the opening of at least 15 cm.
  6. Build an armored belt and install an interfloor ceiling. To fill the reinforced belt, secure the formwork elements at the top level of the masonry, lay the reinforcement grid and fill with concrete. Floors can be made of wood, as well as aerated concrete slabs and hollow-core panels.
  7. Install the roof structure. To do this, assemble a truss, secure the sheathing, and attach a waterproofing coating to it. All that remains is to install the roofing covering, for which many modern materials can be used.

Aerated concrete house - start of construction

At the final stage of construction work, window and door frames are installed, external cladding is performed, and interior improvement work is also carried out.

We build a house with our own hands from aerated concrete - work regulations

The total duration of the construction cycle consists of the duration of individual stages of work:

  • the construction of the foundation will take 15–20 days, but it is advisable to start it a year before the start of construction so that the concrete gains strength;
  • construction of the box of a gas-block house and construction of internal partitions will take 3–6 weeks;
  • constructing a rafter structure and attaching roofing material to it will require from 2 to 5 weeks;
  • installation of doors and windows into openings, laying floors and thermal insulation work will take up to one month;
  • for the façade finishing of a foam block structure it will take no more than a week, depending on the materials used;
  • You can install communications inside the building and connect them quickly - within 2 to 4 weeks;
  • The duration of the interior finishing activity depends on the requirements of the owners, as well as the characteristics of the finishing materials used.

If you carry out construction work yourself, the construction of an aerated concrete building will take up to six months. By entrusting the construction work to professionals, you can complete the construction at an accelerated pace within two months. The duration of construction activities is determined by the complexity of the project being implemented, the level of mechanization, the degree of training and the number of construction personnel.

Conclusion

By building a house with your own hands from aerated blocks, you can realize your old dream of having your own home, as well as master the skills of performing construction work and save a lot of money. Aerated concrete blocks have increased performance characteristics that ensure stability, reliability, strength and durability of an aerated concrete building. It’s worth thinking about how to decorate a house with your own hands from aerated concrete to give it an original look.

Building a house from blocks has always aroused the interest of users. The variety of options offered by manufacturers allows you to choose a natural or artificial material that fully meets all the requirements of modern comfort. But it is important to know not only how to build a house from blocks, but also all the quality characteristics of the proposed building material.

Technical parameters of block elements

If you rely on the price and aesthetics of the material, you can also build a house from blocks with your own hands, but no one can tell you how long the building will last. Therefore, you need to rely on the following indicators:

  • Thermal conductivity. The lower the indicator, the higher the energy savings, which means the walls can be thinner;
  • Strength. This means the ability of the material to withstand compressive loads;
  • Frost resistance. Indicated by the number of freezing/thawing cycles without the product losing its exceptional qualities;
  • Volume weight. Determined in kg/1m3, depends on the density of the material and is needed to calculate the strength of the supporting base;
  • Moisture resistance. This is a parameter of hygroscopicity, that is, the moisture absorption of the product - the lower, the better;
  • Vapor permeability. Responsible for the formation of condensation in the room and removal of excess moisture;
  • Fire resistance, fire safety;
  • Soundproofing qualities.

The size range and environmental friendliness of materials are also taken into account without fail. The first indicator is responsible for the variety of elements, which means the ability to translate any forms and projects into reality. The second is for the safety of the product for the health of all residents of the house. And not least of all, the price of the product and the efficiency of building construction play a role in the choice.

Types of block products

All blocks are separated by composition and content. The structural determinant of each element gives the material characteristics that determine the scope of application: internal or external wall panels, foundations, etc. It’s worth starting with blocks for arranging the supporting base.

Foundation blocks

The composition of the FBS block is heavy grade concrete, which is characterized by increased strength and resistance to various types of influences. Most often used when arranging strip foundations and is indicated for heavy massive buildings. However, when planning the basement level, such blocks are also good and are an alternative to a strip base, benefiting in terms of economy and speed of construction.

Important! To increase strength, frame reinforcement is used.

In addition to standard FBS, the following are used:

  • FBV - elements with cutouts, through which it is convenient to lay communications;
  • FBP are hollow block bars used to lighten the weight of a building or to equip load-bearing wall panels. They have improved thermal insulation qualities.

Advice! The use of foundation blocks will require the use of technology, since it is physically impossible to lift some elements yourself.

Creating a block base has many advantages:

  1. Construction of a house regardless of the seasons;
  2. The lack of time for the structure to mature and the possibility of erecting the box immediately upon completion of work with laying the foundation speeds up the construction period;
  3. Reduced workload due to the lack of formwork, reinforcement frame and mixture pouring.

Important! It is allowed to create a block foundation on any soil except heaving soil.

Cellular blocks for building a house: advantages and disadvantages

This type combines three types: aerated concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate blocks. Each material has been successfully used to build a block house, but it is difficult for a non-specialist to determine the characteristic features of the types. Let's look at the fundamental differences.

Foam and aerated concrete blocks

Materials vary according to the production method. To form foam, a foaming agent is used, resulting in an element with a closed internal structure, while for gas, a chemical reaction is used to form an open-shaped structure. Making a block can be one of two ways:

  1. Pouring the mixture into a mold made for small-sized elements;
  2. Pouring a monolithic piece and then cutting it into segments.

Foam concrete blocks are inferior to aerated concrete in terms of material shrinkage and increased level of hygroscopicity; moreover, aerated concrete is considered better in terms of thermal insulation qualities.

Technological features of the construction of houses from foam and aerated concrete blocks

The main advantage of the material is that you can build a house yourself. In this case, you don’t need to have a lot of experience. The accuracy of shapes and sizes, the determined class and variety of element options help to select the material for any type of load-bearing structure. The blocks are held together with ordinary cement mortar or adhesive.

Advice! If you buy glue, it is much easier to adjust the shape of the house vertically and horizontally.

Positive and negative qualities of gas and foam concrete blocks:

  • Good permeability of wall structures;
  • High energy saving rates;
  • Sufficient load-bearing capacity of each block;
  • Fire resistance;
  • Environmental friendliness;
  • Durability;
  • Frost resistance.

Important! Autoclaved aerated concrete allows up to 100 defrosting and thawing cycles.

These were the pros and cons:

  1. High hygroscopicity, and if you choose aerated concrete, the higher the density of the material, the higher the absorbency;
  2. Cold bridges reduce energy savings.

It is possible and necessary to build from blocks of this type if you think about the heat and waterproofing. Added to the advantages are overall savings: on materials, foundation construction (the light weight of the blocks reduces the requirements for the load-bearing capacity of the foundation), and the use of specialist services. But the video will show the general process of building a house from blocks.

Gas silicate blocks

A material with a cellular structure with high thermal insulation properties, produced by the autoclave method. It is made from the same raw materials as aerated concrete, but the difference is in the larger proportion of lime. It is this additive that causes controversy about the harmfulness of the product, but people have been whitewashing their houses for many years in a row and use this method to this day without experiencing any particular inconvenience.

Important! The highest load-bearing capacity allows you to build houses up to 5 floors, but the material has low bending strength. Therefore, the requirements for the foundation have been increased: a monolithic foundation will be the best option if you want to build a house from gas silicate correctly and for a long time.

The advantages of gas silicate are not limited to high performance - the material has an extremely low price, and the possibility of arranging a load-bearing wall in one row at latitudes of positive temperatures also adds to the product’s popularity. However, if there are frosts, gas silicate elements need additional insulation. Moreover, it is best to combine the process with waterproofing due to the high absorbency of the blocks.

Advice! When planning to build a house yourself, you should pay attention to the density indicator, especially if it is a two-story building - the best indicator is D 400-D 700. Ideal geometry, durability, frost resistance (up to 100 cycles) and high load-bearing capacity are clear advantages in favor of choosing gas silicate .

Blocks of other types and types

In addition to cellular concrete, manufacturers offer equally convenient and practical materials. Each product has its own advantages and characteristics, and when examined in detail, it is quite possible to find a rational and cost-effective option for the construction of a private building.

  1. Expanded clay concrete. This is baked clay, cement and sand sintered into one element. Being one of the most environmentally friendly materials, blocks can be hollow or solid. The former have high energy-saving characteristics. In addition, there are many more advantages:
  • strength;
  • reduced thermal conductivity coefficient;
  • increased sound insulation characteristics;
  • resistance to humidity and aggressive environmental influences;
  • light weight.
  1. Arbolit. Otherwise called sawdust concrete and is a composition of cement, sand, wood chips and sawdust. Low specific gravity and extremely high thermal insulation rates determined the popularity of the product. It is important that the foundation can be made quite light, and with proper waterproofing, the creation of a house from wood concrete blocks is shown in wet conditions. Another positive point is that it is non-flammable, despite the content of wood elements.

Calculation of the amount of materials for building a house

After choosing the material, it’s time to calculate its quantity. If you contact a company, you don’t have to do this yourself, but it’s still better to do a calculation to make sure the developer is honest. First, you need to convert all indicators into construction volume, that is, m3, which is a unit of sales of materials. After that, find out the volume of one block and determine how many of them are needed per 1 square meter.

Determining the total volume of purchased building material is determined by determining all the dimensions of the future home: height, length, thickness of wall panels. Don’t forget window and door openings in your calculations.

Now divide the clarified total construction volume by the number of block elements, which in total cover 1 square meter - the number will be the amount of material that needs to be purchased.

How to build a house from blocks

There are no special tricks in building a house from block elements. The technology is similar to bricklaying, but takes much less time. All processes begin with the arrangement of the foundation, and here you will be pleasantly surprised by the possibility of good savings - block structures have a low specific weight and therefore the foundation can also be made lightweight, the house will stand firmly on shallow, piled foundations (it all depends on the type of soil).

The further stages of construction are also simple:

  1. Arrangement of external load-bearing walls from denser elements. Moreover, the method of laying is no different from laying bricks;
  2. Construction of internal wall partitions, for which a cheaper product with average thermal conductivity is selected;
  3. Roof installation and finishing.

The main thing is that you can build such a house yourself, do not wait for a long period of shrinkage of the structure and almost immediately move into a new home, simultaneously doing the final finishing. Of course, for each type of block you will have to choose a special type of finishing materials due to poor adhesion of standard putties and facings with stone. But such costs are compensated by the overall savings on the foundation and material.

When calculating how much it costs to build a house, you cannot forget about block structures. If the technological subtleties of the choice are followed, a house built from aerated concrete or other block elements will serve excellently for many years and will not be inferior to other products in terms of environmental friendliness, warmth and a pleasant microclimate. And look at the photo, don’t you want to have your own comfortable and excellent home, which is ready not within 2-3 seasons required for “ripening”, shrinkage and other subtleties, but literally in one summer!

Aerated concrete blocks are an excellent material for the construction of a low-rise private cottage. The blocks are quite light and have increased thermal conductivity, which makes the finished building warm and structurally light. That is why a shallow foundation can be installed under it, which makes construction economically profitable. On how to build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands and at the same time achieve excellent, long-lasting results, see our material below with detailed instructions.

Initial stages of work

It is necessary to start building a house from aerated concrete with design. Moreover, design work must be carried out exclusively with the help of a specialist. A professional will take into account the soil characteristics of the site and the climatic conditions of the development area. Thanks to these parameters, it is possible to correctly select the optimal building materials (number, type, density of blocks), as well as calculate the bearing capacity of the foundation.

Important: it is not worth saving at this stage of the work, since there is a risk of making incorrect calculations and getting cracks along the entire perimeter of the house as a result of its operation.

And when performing design work, it is advisable to carefully calculate the thickness of the wall blocks. Because they are the ones who make it possible to provide warmth and an optimal microclimate in the cottage. This is why building houses from aerated concrete with your own hands is so important in Russia.

Foundation and site preparation

Two types of foundations are most often used as the foundation for a gas-block house:

  • Tape shallow. This base has a thickness of 40-70 cm and copes well with the load-bearing load of the finished house, since aerated concrete is light in weight. The foundation can be made of monolithic strip, which is less expensive, or rubble concrete. The second option requires more time and human labor. However, both types of foundations are durable and reliable. The price of a strip frame will be significantly lower than the cost of a slab base.
  • If the soil on the site is heaving, then they arrange it for an aerated concrete house. monolithic slab foundation. This concrete pad is also called a floating foundation. Its peculiarity is that it can maneuver in the soil of the site along with the building, not succumbing to the force of soil pressure during heaving seasons. Thus, the house with your own hands remains safe and sound, regardless of changes in the structure of the soil. A monolithic slab foundation is poured with a concrete mixture over the entire area of ​​the future house and must be reinforced.

Important: all communications must be installed under the slab foundation before pouring it. Otherwise, you will then have to install sewer and water pipes into the walls, and raise the floor using additional joists.

Ground work for the installation of a foundation of one type or another includes digging a trench or pit, thoroughly compacting the soil and the mandatory laying of a sand and gravel cushion. The concrete mixture is poured exclusively into wooden formwork, covered from the inside with sheets of roofing material.

In dry and warm seasons, the foundation takes three to four weeks to dry. The finished foundation must be carefully waterproofed on all sides in order to subsequently begin laying waterproofing material. This will protect the aerated concrete from the penetration of moisture into it from the ground.

After completing all the work, you can begin building the walls of the house.

Let's start laying the walls

For high-quality and correct construction of a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands, you need to prepare tools and the building material itself.

Tip: during production, aerated blocks are placed in batches on wooden pallets and carefully wrapped with film to prevent moisture from accumulating in the material. The gas block is sold in the same form from the warehouse. Therefore, when transporting aerated concrete to a construction site, it is advisable to place the blocks in such a way that they occupy a certain place under the awning. However, it is not recommended to unpack pallets with blocks all at once. It is better to remove the film as blocks are needed.

Important: pallets with building material can be stacked on top of each other, but no more than two in a row.

For construction work you will need the following tools and materials:

  • The gas block itself is in the right quantity;
  • Adhesive mixture for laying aerated concrete (it is worth knowing that aerated concrete material can also be laid on cement mortar, but glue is still better);
  • Reinforcing rods with a cross section of 8-10 mm (the quantity is calculated when designing the house);
  • Tools for masonry (trowel, mallet, level, cords, etc.).

So, first we prepare the adhesive mixture. It is diluted with water according to the instructions until a homogeneous mass is obtained, reminiscent of thick sour cream in consistency. Subsequently, glue must be applied using a special carriage.

Important: if the house will be built in the cold season, then it is necessary to use a special winter mixture. You can find it in construction stores.

Laying the first row of aerated concrete, like all other rows, begins from the corners of the foundation. This way, it will be possible to set the level for the entire subsequent row of blocks. It is worth knowing that the first row of blocks is always, without exception, produced only with a cement-sand mixture. A control cord is pulled between the laid corner gas blocks and its evenness is leveled by using a building level and adjusting the already installed blocks.

Now you can begin laying the entire row of material until a closed contour is obtained. If at the last point of the belt the parameters of the whole aerated concrete do not fit into the remaining cell, then it can be cut with a hacksaw to the desired parameter and the finishing filling of the first row can be made.

Subsequent rows of gas blocks are laid on the adhesive mixture according to the dressing principle. That is, the upper blocks are displaced relative to the seam of the two lower blocks by about 8-10 cm (example - brickwork). This method of laying is called laying with dressing. A layer of glue is applied to the block, leveled with a carriage and the aerated concrete is mounted in the designated area. At the same time, the building material is pressed well, controlling the level of the masonry.
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Important: if subsequent external finishing of the walls of the house will not be carried out, then you need to take care of the attractiveness of the external seam. To do this, the adhesive mass is simply selected in the seam area using a special gutter. In this case, the finished and dried seams will have to be additionally treated with sealant both outside and inside.

Advice: all rows of walls of the house should be laid out strictly from the corners. This will allow you to achieve ideal evenness of the masonry. The internal walls are laid out parallel to the external ones. For them, you can use blocks up to 20 cm thick.

Reinforcement of aerated concrete walls is a prerequisite for a strong and durable structure. The reinforcement bars are laid in special grooves made in blocks. At the same time, it is worth knowing that the armored belt must be laid on the first row of masonry, then on every fourth row, in places of window and door openings, as well as in places of increased loads.

Important: in the last or penultimate row of masonry in the area of ​​window and door openings, it is necessary to lay a special reinforced ring beam.

Now all that remains is to mount the concrete reinforced belt, which will become a support for the floor slabs. It is installed on external and internal walls. Floor slabs are laid on the dried reinforced belt, which serve as the floor for the second floor (if a two-story house is being built) or the floor of the attic. If you plan to build a second floor, then laying aerated concrete blocks is carried out similarly to the above.

Important: a reinforced concrete belt is not as capable of retaining heat as aerated concrete blocks. Therefore, care should be taken to insulate it. The same armored belt is also erected under the roof of the house. Later, a building system is attached to it.

Roof installation

In order for a house made of aerated concrete to have a finished look with your own hands, all that remains is to mount the roof. Therefore, you should prepare all the rafters, timber for sheathing, waterproofing and thermal insulation material and roofing. For an aerated concrete house, professionals recommend using ondulin, as it is resistant to various mechanical damage and tolerates moisture and temperature changes well.

  • So, first you should install the outer rafters of the roof, which are connected to the ridge beam. After this, all other rafters are installed.
  • A sheet of rough boards is attached to the formed frame, which is covered with heat and on top with waterproofing materials.
  • Roofing material is installed on top of both types of insulation.

Final works

If there is a desire or need (the house is being built in frost-resistant regions), then you can additionally insulate the walls of the building. Insulation will also be relevant if the blocks were laid not with an adhesive mixture, but with a cement-sand mixture.

A built aerated concrete house is usually insulated with sheets of foam plastic or mineral slabs. The final finishing is done with vapor-permeable plaster and water-based paint.

Important: if a decision is made to cover the façade of an aerated block building with bricks, then in order to avoid dampening of the blocks, ventilation gaps should be left in the brickwork. The inside of a house made of aerated concrete blocks is decorated with special plaster, which will not interfere with the breathing of the walls.

Thus, we build a house from aerated concrete with our own hands step by step, following all the recommendations and using the advice of experienced people.

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