Painting bicycle wheels. How to paint a bicycle frame at home

With your favorite bike, time flies by. With frequent trips, it is sometimes not possible to see how the bicycle gradually loses its attractiveness: it becomes dull, becomes covered with small scratches, chips and even rust. All this has a negative impact not only on the appearance of the frame, but also on its service life: pipes that are susceptible to corrosion due to scratches will not last long.

If an old bicycle is “retired” forever, then there is no point in extending its service life. But many cyclists do not want to abandon their comrades and resort to complete or partial renewal.

One of these includes eliminating defects, painting and varnishing the frame. Spray painting has become widespread, and for good reason. You won't be able to apply an even layer of paint to the frame pipes with a regular brush. Due to its ease and speed, this method has found active independent use. How to paint a bicycle using a spray can at home will be discussed in this short article.

Disassembling the bike and preparing the frame

So, we found out that the color of a bicycle is determined by its frame. You will also have to paint the fork and possibly the trunk. Before painting you need to completely disassemble the bike:

1. Remove all overhangs: brakes, shock absorbers, etc.
2. Remove the front wheel from the fork dropouts and the fender (if equipped).
3. Unscrew the steering wheel from the fork.
4. Remove the trunk.
5. Remove the rear wheel and fender.

When only the bare frame remains, remove the fork from the front pipe.

Preparatory stages:

1. Removing the old paint layer.
2. Smoothing out irregularities.
3. Degreasing the metal surface.

What is necessary? Old paint is removed with a solvent. Using a clean rag soaked in it, we carefully go through all the pipes and especially along the welding joints. You may have to repeat the procedure. This depends on the thickness of the factory paint layer. After cleaning, the frame is thoroughly wiped with a dry soft cloth. If light stains remain, it is not recommended to wet the surfaces with water; it is better to go over it again with a solvent.

The next stage is sanding. All small scratches, chips and corrosion areas are removed with sandpaper. Depending on the depth of the scratches, the grit of the sandpaper is selected: 240 sandpaper will cope with small defects; 80 sandpaper will be suitable for removing chips and rust.

“Sanding” cleaning from unevenness

Removing greasy stains– also a necessary procedure to properly paint the frame and fork of a bicycle. Fat content reduces the adhesion of primer and paint to the metal, which is why the paint can fall off very quickly. To prevent this from happening, be sure to use a degreasing agent, such as white spirit.

The cleaned frame of the bike can be primed

Priming surfaces for painting

The finished frame and fork are freely placed or suspended. The second option is more convenient; there will definitely be no unprimed areas left. Work should be carried out in well-ventilated areas. If you will be painting at home, then this will be a canopy or utility room in a private house and a balcony in an apartment. The parts need to be hung firmly and at the same time freely, so that it is easy to apply the primer. You need to take care in advance that the composition and paint do not get into the wrong places, as well as about your own safety: prepare gloves, a mask and goggles.

We buy a can of primer in the store and evenly distribute the composition over the surfaces of the parts to be painted: frame, fork, trunk. The optimal number of layers to be applied is 3. Before applying the next portion, you need to wait for the first layer to dry.

When all the primer has been applied, the parts are left for a day. The area where priming and painting is carried out should not be too humid and there should be no source of open flame. After a 24-hour break, the primer is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper (from 400 to 600) in places where the layer thickens. The bike is now completely ready for paint.

Applying paint using a spray can

Using a disposable spray can is very simple, so there are usually few questions about this type of work. However, there are several rules to achieve better results. Following these simple recommendations will help you paint quickly and at the same time correctly:

• apply paint gradually, in a thin layer;
• keep the sprayer at a distance;
• paint from top to bottom;
• Avoid using too much paint.

The recommended number of layers is up to three. A lack of paint will cause it to wear out quickly, and too much paint will cause cracking and chipping. We make sure to let each layer dry, and only then do we begin applying the next one. Fully painted parts should be cured for 1 to 2 days.

Painting the frame

Acrylic paints in spray cans are best suited for bicycles. They lay down easier and set faster. The color scheme in stores is presented to suit every taste, the main thing is to think about the shade in advance. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to get by with just one can, so it’s recommended to take two or three at once. Is it necessary to sand dry paint? In principle, if it was distributed evenly and accurately, then it is not necessary. Small smudges are removed with fine-grain sandpaper. We pre-wet it in water so as not to leave even a small scratch.

Finishing touches: drawings and varnishing

Some will not limit themselves to a monochromatic coloring of their two-wheeled friend, and rightly so. Emblems and symbols will give the bike its own originality, and it will look more elegant. You can use stickers as a simple option, but paint-applied labels look much more reliable and beautiful.

Additional elements are created using stencils - special self-adhesive films with free cut out designs. There are various options on sale: stripes, patterns, figures, letters, etc. If you wish and have a penchant for creativity, you can cut out stencils yourself from simple sheets of adhesive film.

Film with a pattern for dyeing

Important: when gluing stencils, you must make sure that the base paint has already dried, otherwise when removing the film it will peel off or smudge, and you will have to redo everything all over again!

The procedure for creating patterns is simple. You need to do the following:

1. Attach the stencil tightly to the frame tube or fork.
2. Using a spray can, spray paint onto the stencil.
3. Wait until completely dry.
4. Peel the film from the surface. The drawing is ready!

When spraying, it is allowed for the paint to extend onto the film itself - the design will have smoother edges. We make sure that it does not flow beyond the stencil. To be on the safe side, you can additionally cover the surface with a simple film along the edges of the painting area.

And finally, the last stage is applying varnish to the surface. It’s not hard to guess that varnish must be bought in cans, just like paint and primer. The protective coating must be applied in the same way as layers of paint, the number of layers is one or two. Do not leave unvarnished areas free, otherwise the paint in these areas will begin to age faster. There is an opinion that varnishing is a waste of time. This is debatable, since the varnished surface not only looks more beautiful, but also lasts much longer.

Spray painting is an easy and effective way to update your bike without professional painting skills. One time is enough to remember how and what is done to gain invaluable experience in this area.

You may be familiar with the situation when you decide to buy a bike at a discount, but you don’t like the color or the paint has started to fall off (if you bought a used bike). Or you want to give your bike an unusual coloring. In this article we will tell you...

Step 1

Remove all parts that do not need to be painted. Cover the bolts with masking tape or remove them (however, remember where they are from and never lose them).

• We also advise you to exercise caution when disassembling your bike. Especially if you are working in the area of ​​the steering column. You need to remember how all the parts are located on the bike, so that you can assemble it correctly. The bearings also need to be removed, but since this is extremely difficult to do without the necessary tools, we advise you to contact a workshop where they will remove them for you at a reasonable price.
• We also recommend purchasing special lubricant.

Step 2

Clean your bike of grease. You can use special grease removers.

Step 3

Remove any remaining paint with sandpaper.

• If the bike has a carbon fiber frame, try not to sand it down. You may even have to leave some areas with the old paint.
• If your bike has dents, now is the time to get them covered. Use primer to create a smooth surface. Then sand the area and brush off the dust.

Step 4

Hang your bike by the head tube to prevent paint from clogging the bottom bracket. You can just tie it with a clothesline. Choose your painting location carefully, as you will need to move around to paint all the parts. The bike should be hung in a well-ventilated area with good lighting. The latter will help ensure that you apply the paint evenly.

Step 5

Apply a thin coat of primer to the surface to obtain good coverage. Spray at a distance of 20 cm from the surface. You should start by painting the area next to the joints and carriage, since they are the most difficult to paint due to the likelihood of smudges. After applying the paint, wait approximately 15 minutes. It's okay if you didn't paint the entire frame because you'll be covering it in multiple layers.

• Make sure to choose the right primer as the color of the frame will be directly affected by it. We recommend purchasing an anti-corrosion primer.
• If your bike has an aluminum frame, you may need to purchase a special primer, as these frames may develop uneven surfaces due to the nature of the metal.
• When coating your bike with primer, you must wear safety glasses and a respirator to prevent paint from getting into your face and eyes. Also wear gloves as some paints can be harmful to your skin.

Step 6

Leave the frame to dry for 24 hours. It is advisable to leave it to dry in the same place where you painted it. If this is not possible, carefully place it on newspapers and do not touch it, as this may cause the paint to come off.

Step 7

Sand with 6-H sandpaper (P220). You need to achieve a smooth surface.

Step 8

Apply another coat of paint. Clean the dirt off your bike again. Now apply the paint in the same way as the primer, checking the thinness of the layer until the painting is finished. If you want to paint the frame in several colors, simply apply 3-4 layers of paint in light colors, then designate the areas where that particular color will be. After that, paint the frame a different color, but darker.

Step 9

Polish with M14 sandpaper (P1200). It is recommended to sand with water as this prevents clogging of the sandpaper. It is also recommended to use Windex (or other glass cleaning products). Spray onto the surface and then sand. The main thing is to keep the surface damp while polishing. You need to achieve a matte finish so that the varnish adheres to the surface. Varnish is needed to add shine.

Step 10

Apply tags (optional). If you then varnish the stickers, they will last much longer. However, the tags should be as thin as possible. If you think about it, you can buy them in almost any online store.

Factory bicycle paint sooner or later loses its shine, and often acquires “life scars”: chips, scratches, rust deposits. Returning your favorite vehicle to its former shine and shine or radically changing its design at your own discretion - every cyclist can do all this with his own hands and at home.

What is necessary

To paint your iron friend you will need not only aerosol car paint of a suitable shade, but also other consumables and tools:

• Screwdriver, wrenches of different sizes;
• Putty or mastic;
• Primer;
• Sanding paper with grit 80, 220 and 1200;
• Degreaser or special car wipe;
• Brush, spray;
• Masking tape;
• Rag, sponge;
• Respirator, gloves, safety glasses.

For colorful work, it is better to choose a spacious, ventilated, illuminated room or an outdoor place protected from direct sunlight. It is advisable to hang the frame and other parts of the bicycle on a wire or clothesline so as not to leave unpainted areas.

The required number of cylinders with paints and varnishes is calculated individually. Based on the calculation that a standard bicycle requires 2-3 aerosols of paint, primer and varnish.

Painting stages

The whole process can be divided into several stages: preparatory, disassembling, sanding, painting and final.

Each step is important, so let's look at them in more detail.

General preparation

The first stage includes all the preparatory actions: thinking about the future design, purchasing consumables, searching for the necessary tools. Particular attention is paid to safety. So, if possible, wear an apron, gloves, a respirator, goggles, and the work area is covered with film or old newspapers.

Disassembling the bike

Before painting the bike, it is disassembled and all parts and spare parts that do not need updating are removed. This is done as carefully and consistently as possible so as not to deform or break anything. For non-professionals, it is better to seek help from specialists or available instructions.

Preparing the surface

Anything that is not planned to be painted, for example, logos, inscriptions, drawings, must be carefully and accurately sealed with tape. Threaded areas are protected in a similar way.

1. The surface is degreased with a special product (White spirit) or a universal car wipe.
2. Use P80 grit paper to remove the old coating (for carbon frames the use of sandpaper is prohibited).
3. Using putty or mastic, all unevenness, damage, corrosion and dents are eliminated.
4. After drying, the smooth surface is sanded again and cleaned of dust.
5. A thin (about 5 mm) layer of corrosion-resistant primer is applied. It is taken into account that the final shade depends on the color of the primer.

It is important to choose the correct consistency of the primer, which ideally should completely drain from the brush. A solution that is too thick is diluted with a solvent, and a liquid solution is added to the mixture. To cover hard-to-reach areas as much as possible, the bicycle frame is suspended from the ceiling and treated with an air gun.

All primed parts are left to dry overnight in a suspended state or carefully placed on dry newspapers.

After 24 hours, the dry surface is wetted and carefully sanded with P220 paper.

Let's start painting

Direct work with the paint can is the most important and painstaking stage. The first step is to carefully read these instructions and protect your skin from the toxicity of the paint.

The paint is sprayed evenly until a uniform coating is formed. If the design of the bike involves an ornament of several shades, then first the lightest of them is applied in 3-4 layers, which, after drying, is sealed with tape. Then the coating is done in a similar way with other colors, ending with the darkest tone.

Using masking tape you can not only make geometric patterns, but also any other ornaments. To do this you need to use your imagination and scissors.

Some experts note that it is better to paint a bike using the powder method, which is more reliable, durable and resistant to negative environmental influences.

If necessary, other parts of the bicycle are also painted: handlebars, forks, wheels, pedals.

Final processing

The final steps include sanding the frame again with the highest grit paper possible and keeping the surface wet.

Before varnishing, the vehicle is optionally decorated with labels, emblems or other suitable decorative elements. Also, if you have talent, you can paint the surface with a bright contrasting color or use a stencil.

The end result is fixed with 2-3 layers of varnish, which is sprayed at a distance of 5-10 cm to avoid the appearance of roughness and unevenness. It is worth noting that only matte paints need to be varnished, so find out in advance whether it contains varnish.

A freshly painted bike needs to dry completely, which takes about a week on average. Previously, assembling an iron friend was risky: uncured paint and varnish are easily damaged.

The strength of the coating is checked by lightly moving a blunt knife, the sliding of which means complete drying.

The following recommendations and tips will help make your work easier and reduce risks:

• Use paints and varnishes from the same manufacturer to avoid causing a possible negative chemical reaction;
• Accurately calculate the required volume of consumables, or better yet, purchase cans for future use in order to carry out local “repairs” in the future;
• If the old coating cannot be removed with sandpaper, use a wire brush on a drill or an angle grinder with wire bristles. A thermal hair dryer and spatula are also suitable for this purpose;
• It is easier to defeat rust with special anti-corrosion substances and products;
• Old stickers can only be removed with sandpaper, since the solvent only causes the glue to smudge;
• Wet sanding will give the frame a matte finish if you keep the surface damp with glass cleaner during the process.
• When assembling the bike after painting, lubricate the bearings, internal mechanisms, and springs to increase their wear resistance.

You can update your bicycle transport both in the showroom and in your home workshop. At the same time, the second option is more economical, more interesting, and more productive. Only by painting yourself will you be able to fully control the process, evaluate the quality of materials and realize your dreams in an individual design.

The main thing is not to deviate from the proposed algorithm, listen to the recommendations and not be lazy. Then your freshly painted bike will delight you for a long time and cause the envy of your neighbors.

The article is dedicated to those who have already stripped the frame so much that they are ashamed to go outside and to those who simply like to experiment without being afraid to pick up a tool.

A little about the paint and varnish material:

1. white spirit is used for degreasing, any other will do (sold at any hardware store);
2. solvent (it is better to buy at auto markets), depends on the paint, but is approximately distributed as follows: 646, 648,649,650 - in principle suitable for any car paints, but I advise using 650. 647 - for nitro enamels;
3. 3-primer, used to prepare the surface for painting (the paint adheres to it much better; the primer fills in small irregularities; the surface turns out to be mirror-like);
4. dye;

I don’t think it’s worth saying that first of all it would be a good idea to remove everything from the frame.

Stage 1. Preparing the frame for painting.

It consists of sanding the frame until all irregularities (scratches, possibly stickers) are completely smoothed out. You can sand out completely, you can only sand out uneven areas, in both cases you need to sand out extremely carefully, otherwise you will end up with very unpleasant holes and unevenness. We select the sandpaper depending on the depth of the scratches, but in no case should it leave deep scratches on the frame or paint. You can use paint removers (sold in car stores, cost about 50 rubles a tube), but then clean the surface thoroughly, otherwise all your work will swell, literally. Do not try to use a hair dryer to remove paint; you may damage the frame.

Also at this stage, using cold welding (see fig.) (price 30 rubles per forging) you can eliminate (eliminate from the point of view of appearance) particularly large scratches, dents, or simply embellish something. For example, I eliminated sharp transitions on Kharkov bicycles, since the frame is not welded, but the links are simply inserted into each other. When working with xc, I do not recommend putting too much on the frame, as it is quite difficult to process (process with rough sandpaper or a knife).

Stage 2. Preparing the surface of the frame directly for painting.

I can’t call this stage mandatory, since if you don’t prime, nothing dangerous will happen (in 50% of cases), but I’ll list the reasons why it still needs to be done:

1. paint adheres to the primer much better than to the frame (both in terms of quality and in terms of chemical interaction), it’s not for nothing that primer was invented in the first place;
2. using soil it is very easy to achieve an ideal surface, which will naturally have a positive effect on the final result;
3. It’s worth considering that many paints may simply not adhere (for example, the effect may be that the paint curls up in droplets on the frame) on a “bare” frame;
4. if you have not completely sanded the frame, then primer is required, since your previous paint and the new one may have different bases, and they may begin to react with each other, and the primer will act as a kind of “adapter”;
5. a primed frame is more resistant to corrosion;

Next, you need to decide on the priming method: Unlike paint, here you can paint equally well, both from a spray can and from a spray bottle. In both cases, I recommend using Fitter primer; it is relatively cheap, and the quality is slightly inferior to more expensive primers (price 1 kg, 200 rubles; a can, about 100-200 rubles):

But still, the cans have one significant drawback: for priming it is advisable to use thick soil (so that all the unevenness is filled in), and the can, as a rule, due to the low pressure, contains liquid, therefore, instead of one “thick” layer, you will have to put several “ liquid."

If you decide to take it for bottling, you will need:

Progress:

1. place the frame in a ventilated area (for example: balcony, garage...);
2. thoroughly degrease the frame (for example, with white spirit);
3. if it’s a spray can: shake the can and carefully apply in small strokes, at a distance of about 15-25cm from the frame)

   If using a spray bottle: dilute the primer in the proportion indicated on the can (as a rule, all primers come in 3 components: the base is the primer itself, hardener, solvent - purchased separately), add solvent to the desired thickness (take a stick, dip it into the soil, if the primer is light drips down without leaving droplets on the stick, then everything is fine; if there is a drop left at the end of the stick, add solvent). Try painting on anything: if the surface shows through the primer, add a little base (that is, the primer itself); if droplets or scraps of paint fly out of the sprayer, add solvent. Paint the same way as with a spray can. If smudges have formed, then at this stage it is not a problem, but it is unacceptable when covering with paint. And try not to go through the same place more than 2-3 times.

4. let it dry for about a day at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees, if the temperature is lower, let it dry longer;
5. if necessary, add another layer (if the previous one was too liquid, or if there are small irregularities on the frame);
6. Using fine sandpaper (about 200 grit), lightly sand until the surface is perfect (good primers, for example Fitter, are very easy to sand);

Stage 3. Painting.

The last is the most difficult and painful stage. The hard part is choosing paint. I'll tell you about the most common types of machine paint. Let me make a reservation that I have been using exclusively acrylic paints for a long time.

There are a number of disadvantages to consider when painting.

1. almost all colors look good only on a white surface (this means that first you will need to paint with white paint, and only then with the color of your choice)
2. if you want to make a transition: firstly, put dark paint on light (although not always, but if you haven’t painted before, it’s better to do this)
3. When painting, the thicker the layer, the richer the color, but in no case do not add too much. Remember the golden rule when painting, especially if you are painting for the first time - “it’s better to under-water than over-water.” But if a drip does appear, remove the frame and turn the back drip to the side; as soon as it drips in the other direction, turn it back, and so on several times until the paint sets a little.

Naturally, the question of spray can or sprayer arises again:

Why puller:

1. The quality of the paint is an order of magnitude higher, and so is the price;
2. the ability to choose a color depends only on your imagination;
3. buy the right amount of paint (for example, you decided to make the tips of the feathers a different color (relative to the frame), instead of buying a whole can, you buy 20g of paint);

Why spray can:

1. the most important thing is ease of use;
2. saving time;
3. saving money, accordingly this will affect the quality (in most cases);

Progress:

1. wipe the frame very well with white spirit; if you spray paint steps 2 and 3, you can skip them
2. dilute the paint (that is, if there is a hardener, add a hardener), “regulate” the density in the same way as in the soil;
3. wash the airbrush with solvent; if you paint it white, make sure that the airbrush is perfectly clean (otherwise the white paint may acquire tints)
4. apply the paint in small strokes, trying not to go over one place more than 2 times, make sure that the spray gun (spray can) when painting is always at the same distance from the frame and is perpendicular to it (so that the paint is applied in equal layers);
5. if necessary, apply other layers of paint
6. if you paint, for example, with nitro-metallic, varnish (in general, you need to varnish if the paint requires it, but it just doesn’t do anything, naturally it depends on the paint, for example, this is not required for acrylic)
7. let it dry for several days (even if the paint has dried in a few hours)

Comments on the article

avalanche

“almost all colors look good only on a white surface (this means that first you will need to paint with white paint, and only then with the color you have chosen)” - it is always better to put paint on the primer, so to make the process easier and cheaper, we buy white primer accordingly, maybe black. As I noticed, if the paint was applied to a white primer, the color turned out lighter and brighter, when applied to black it was darker and deeper. I used black and was pleased! I painted it with metallic and under varnish - it turned out awesome, the color shimmers in the sun, shine!! I advise you to first try the paint on different surfaces, for example, I tried mine on white and it turned out to suck! I thought the paint wasn’t very good, but I tested it on black and it turned out awesome!

ARMAGEDDON

super...can you teach me something else? =)

ZAYCHEGG

Thanks a lot

ballio

Great prices. Standard paint costs $100-150 per kg and is sold exclusively in whole cans, where the author saw 20 grams, who knows. MIXON primer, for example, dries in an apartment for up to 2 days. Apply at least 2 layers. The paint dries from 2 weeks to 2 months, depending on the ambient temperature. Each layer of paint is sanded with sandpaper from 2000 to 5000, depending on the “softness” of the acrylic. Let the layer dry for 24 hours, then sand gloss, remove the smudges), then another layer. The last layer, in theory, should be perfect and without smudges, but if not, then we polish it and then polish it with a special wheel for an angle grinder and polish. I repainted a bunch of things this way and it’s fine. I even painted the connecting rods white.

vvs

"Cool prices. Normal paint costs $100-150 per kg and is sold exclusively in whole cans, where the author saw 20 grams, who the hell knows. MIXON primer, for example, dries in an apartment for up to 2 days. Apply at least 2 layers. The paint dries from 2 weeks to 2 months, depending on the ambient temperature. Each layer of paint is sanded with sandpaper from 2000 to 5000, depending on the “softness” of the acrylic. Let the layer dry for 24 hours, then sand (knock down the gloss, remove smudges), then again layer. The last layer, in theory, should be perfect and without smudges, but if not, then we chug it and then polish it with a special wheel for an angle grinder and polish. I repainted a bunch of everything this way and it’s fine. I even painted the connecting rods white.” and now let’s look at it in order, so that you don’t confuse people with incorrect information;

vvs

"normal paint starts at an average of $80 per kg; is sold on tap in any painting shop (paint sub-shop), as well as in many stores; any quantity can be poured; normal primer, for example, inexpensive Novol, dries for several hours - ideal for sanding; and yes - it applies beautifully in one coat; the same wonderful acrylic paint dries in about 24-48 hours and then sands and polishes wonderfully; two months??? maybe they forgot to give you a hardener?)))) let's move on - what are you smelling there? I don’t know, especially with such small sandpapers) I’m even wondering where you found the 5000 sandpaper))) for grinding a pair in an internal combustion engine, and then it’s larger; several layers are also interesting, why; we waste extra material and money - well, it’s possible in principle; we polish - Yes, the idea is correct, but not for everyone and not with a grinder - it is not suitable for this; either with pens - or with a polishing machine;

This article is relevant for owners of used bicycles. Many experienced cyclists will say that it is necessary to paint your steel horse in winter or, in extreme cases, in early spring.

This is not an entirely simple matter if you want to do it efficiently and at a professional level. At home, when painting with your own hands, you may need a special heat chamber or, at worst, a hairdryer and equipment - a spray gun or an airbrush. You can paint from spray cans, but the quality will suffer. Let's look at everything step by step.

So, painting at home is possible, and according to many bicycle owners, it is necessary. Because you will be preparing and painting a bicycle for yourself, the quality of work with proper handling of materials and tools will be much higher than in professional workshops.

The first thing many cyclists face is choosing a color. Of course, this event is purely individual, but most cyclists adhere to unspoken rules. Eg, Most self-respecting bikers would never paint the main elements of their bike metallic. Even if you want to stand out from the crowd, paint your bike a custom color rather than a metallic one. In addition, do not forget that painting a bicycle should be carried out in three stages, as a rule. The first step is to paint the frame, the second is the elements - feathers, fenders, and the third is the painting of various small elements of the bicycle. Before painting, the bike itself must be disassembled and each part painted separately. Remember, you're not only adding pristine beauty to your bike, but you're also fighting off corrosion.

Now regarding the choice of material. When painting a bicycle at home with your own hands, you can use nitro-enamel, alkyd or acrylic paints. Each type of paint is good in its own way and also has its own characteristics of use and disadvantages. But before painting, it is necessary to prime all elements that will be painted. Of course, priming is not necessary, but a person who will subsequently paint his bike with expensive paint should always do a preliminary priming if he really wants to achieve quality.

In most cases, you can use nitro primers; aerosol cans are the best option. However, if you subsequently use very expensive paint, then it is worth using a multi-component primer. If your bike, or rather its elements, have dents and cracks, then you should putty them.

Now let's look at paint. So, the first one, the most affordable in terms of price and technology of application, is nitro paint. It is characterized by fast drying time and ease of painting. However, the disadvantages include low resistance to mechanical and chemical influences. In addition, the surfaces of parts painted with nitro paint will have a low shine. Another advantage of these paints is the wide range of colors. Experienced bikers believe that this type of paint is simply irreplaceable for local painting of bicycle elements.
The next paint is acrylic. Its good quality is its more resistant resistance to mechanical damage and fast drying time. But they are more expensive and their surface is still susceptible to chemical attack..

And finally, the most expensive, but the highest quality type of paint is alkyd. Such paints have high coating strength, hold color well and are resistant to chemical influences. However, there is one drawback: the color range of such paints does not have a wide choice, but the main set of colors is available for sale.

When tuning many bicycle owners, they also perform external tuning by painting. A striking example of this type is airbrushing the surface of a bicycle (see details in another section of the site)

A bicycle requires painting much more often than a car or motorcycle, since it is prone to falls, the top layer of paint is subject to abrasion by various parts of the body and surrounding objects. Typically, professional painting of bicycle parts is carried out using high-quality enamels with a pre-applied primer. If you neglect expensive brands, then all the work can go down the drain. Therefore, it is very important to try as much as possible to find all the necessary materials: primer, putty, primer, enamel, stripper to remove old paint and solvent.
When everything necessary is prepared, the surface is prepared for painting the bicycle. This process is quite labor intensive, almost90% of all work will go to him. Before painting, the parts are thoroughly washed and inspected. For a durable coating with minor damage, partial paint removal is carried out using a wire sponge, an emery wheel, coarse sandpaper or a metal scraper.