Do-it-yourself stove from a gas cylinder - step-by-step instructions. Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove made from a gas cylinder From two gas cylinders

But really, everything ingenious is simple: a rim with spokes and an axle in the middle is the wheel, stretched fabric is a canopy from the rain, and a metal cylinder and several sections of corners and pipes complete the appearance of a bubafonya stove made from a gas cylinder.

The design drawing will be presented in the article below.

What is bubafonya

The transition to new technologies, the use of modern types of energy, scientific and technological progress, all of this, as practice shows, is gradually becoming part of everyday life, but as the same practice shows, it is not always rational to install an electric convector or install a gas one to solve the problem of heating a garage or warehouse heating.

It’s easier, more reliable and cheaper to use an old, proven resource - firewood, coal or even industrial waste, such as sawdust or shavings, in order to ensure uniform maintenance of heat in the room for at least 6-12 hours.

You can make a long-burning stove with fairly good heat transfer rates and at the same time not as voracious as traditional potbelly stoves and bulky like Burelyans, omnivorous and cheap in terms of manufacturing costs, using the bubafoni project from a gas cylinder as a basis.

The areas of application of such a heating stove are simply enormous, from garages and workshops to cabins and shift shelters, especially since the size of a 50-liter household gas cylinder can guarantee fuel combustion for at least 8 hours at full load and the air supply damper is open as much as possible.

You can purchase block containers (metal cabins) on the website - https://bitovka50.ru/blok-konteynery/. Bubafonya, as one of the options for long-burning stoves, allows you to make one fuel fill for 16-24 hours, it does not require much attention, since combustion takes place in a hermetically sealed space, and does not have a traditional ash pan, so the risk of a fire from a spark running out in this case is minimal .

On the other hand, a bottle from a gas cylinder is extremely inconvenient for removing combustion residues; this will have to be done through the top cover. Another not entirely pleasant point for this type of stove is the relatively low heat transfer compared to other stoves, so it will not be possible to heat the room quickly.

Design and principle of operation

The basis of the bubafoni design is a gas cylinder, inside of which the combustion process of wood fuel takes place. A special feature of this process is the principle of prirolysis - the decomposition of wood under the influence of temperature into flammable gases, which subsequently burn to form heat.

Wood combustion occurs in several stages, at the first stage, the fire heats the fuel, burning out flammable substances, and after overcoming the limit of 300 degrees, the wood begins to decompose into simple substances and combustion of pyrolysis gases occurs. The second stage of combustion is the most efficient, since the combustion temperature of the gases is about 700 degrees.

The possibility of obtaining gas combustion products and their efficient combustion in a furnace is achieved by dividing the internal chamber into two parts. The lower part, filled with firewood, produces the initial ignition and heating, but the upper part, separated from the lower part by a press with a guide air duct, is gradually filled with wood decomposition products, which begin to burn. A massive press gradually pushes the fuel down, thus facilitating the efficient process of firewood decomposition.

The smoke is finally discharged outside through a chimney, the opening of which is located in the upper part of the furnace, and the air supply to the combustion chamber is carried out through an air duct, which forms a single structure with the press. The air supply to the firebox is regulated by setting the damper gap in the upper part of the air duct.

History of the creation of a pyrolysis furnace

The history of the creation of this invention can be interpreted in different ways; on the one hand, it is a successful reworking of the idea of ​​an industrial design of a pyrolysis boiler, on the other hand, it is a wonderful use of scrap materials to create a new type of wood-burning stoves.

And although many argue that this is still the idea of ​​​​the industrial Lithuanian boiler Stropuva, ​​the fact remains that Bubafon still comes from Srednekolymsk.

We do it ourselves (step-by-step description of the process)

Like all ingenious things, the bubafonya stove made from a gas cylinder is a fairly simple design, the manufacture of which will require the ability to work with a welding machine and a little free time.

The main design is a gas cylinder with a capacity of 50 liters, this is the smallest cylinder in volume from which a normal stove can come out; cylinders of a smaller volume simply should not be taken into account, since the efficiency of their use is extremely low.

Note: You can use a gas cylinder as a stove body only after the remaining gas has been removed from it, otherwise, when you try to cut the cylinder, the remaining gas may ignite and an explosion may occur.

Preparation of the cylinder and all parts consists of selecting the required size of metal blanks and cleaning them from rust, oil stains and paint residues.

For ease of use, the cylinder is cut along the circumference at the top. The cut should be as smooth as possible and not have any distortions. It is best to make the cut along the weld line of the top of the cylinder. In the cut off cover, the valve is removed and the guide hole is reinforced with a larger diameter pipe.

Legs are welded to the cylinder in such a way that the lower part of the cylinder is raised above the floor level by 20-25 cm. The legs are made from a thick corner of 30*30 or 40*40 mm.

A hole is made on the side at a distance of 50 mm from the upper edge of the body and a pipe 400-450 mm long with a diameter of 120-150 mm is welded at an angle of 90 degrees. It is advisable to make the chimney from a thick-walled pipe.

Considering that the diameter of the cylinder is 300 mm, a disk with a diameter of 270-280 mm with a hole in the middle of 80-100 mm is cut out of metal 8-10 mm thick. A pipe with a diameter of 80-100 mm and a length of 1200-1400 mm is welded to this hole exactly at an angle of 90 degrees. This is an air supply pipe; a plate valve is welded at the top of the pipe to adjust the air supply hole.

From the bottom of the press, in order to distribute air evenly throughout the volume of the combustion chamber, metal strips, corners or a “U”-shaped profile are welded so that the rays go from the center to the edges. To ensure that the air spreads evenly and only the central part of the fuel load does not burn out, a plate 8-10 mm thick with a diameter of 200-250 mm is welded to the center over the corners.

The furnace is installed on a rigid, solid base; if the furnace is planned to be used as stationary equipment, it is recommended to weld the handles only to the furnace lid. If you plan to move the stove from time to time, it is advisable to install handles on the body.

Despite the fact that the stove does not make any special demands on the quality of the fuel, it is still necessary to dry it before adding firewood; dry firewood, even of a smaller volume, produces heat longer than wet wood.

It is important to know that while the boiler is operating, the fuel supply can be periodically replenished. But it is impossible to stop its operation or turn it off until all the firewood is completely burned.

Despite all the positive qualities, the stove has a significant drawback: it heats the required room temperature too slowly. It is very difficult to achieve a large flame in the shortest possible time.

Based on this, the most correct way to increase efficiency is to use additional technical solutions that help increase the process of heating the volume of air in the room.

The only effective method to increase the heating rate is the need to install an additional casing made of corrugated or flat metal on the body 2-3 cm from it to create an effect when cold air, heating up between the body and the casing, rises, creating a significant air shelf.

Today, among all the popular models of wood-burning stoves, the Bubofonya stove is the only effective means of real savings and efficient use of resources. Moreover, such a stove can be assembled using minimal investments.

How to make a long-burning stove, see the instructions in the following video:

The Bubafonya stove is a long-burning stove. The operating principle is based on the slow burning of one fuel pack. Combustion in this design does not occur as in traditional ones - in the entire volume of the fuel chamber, but goes from top to bottom, which allows you to achieve a long operating time from one load of firewood or other solid combustible materials.

This combustion is due to the design features. Air is supplied to the upper part of the firebox in small quantities, in the center of the filling through special holes in the middle of the piston, and exhaust gases are discharged from its edges in a gap with the walls of the fuel chamber.

The air supply is regulated by a damper installed at the upper end of the supply pipe. Optionally, the stove can be equipped with an additional damper at the exhaust gas outlet for more convenient adjustment of the draft force. As the fuel burns, the piston moves down the chamber, pressing down the combustible materials, this prevents the fuel from burning throughout the entire volume of the firebox and combustion occurs at a very slow pace.

With minimal air leaks, the stove goes into smoldering mode. Burning in some versions reaches sixty hours or more. The peculiarity of “Bubafoni” is that everyone can choose the optimal design option that is necessary for them. This stove has many upgrades and additions.

Advantages:

Flaws:

• Impossibility of working on low-quality sintered coal.
• The need to use fuel of approximately the same moisture content in one load to avoid the piston hanging in the firebox.
• Low thermal power in very long burning mode.
• Impossibility of reloading fuel until complete extinction.
• Difficulty cleaning from combustion products (Solved by additional upgrades).
• Formation of a large amount of condensate in the chimney during operation.
• Low heat transfer area in the basic design.
• The need to have some ignition skills to avoid smoking.
• Low service life of models with a firebox made of thin-walled metal.

Bubafonya from a barrel

Most often, barrels or cylinders are used as the basis for making a stove. Options made from ordinary gas cylinders have the longest service life due to the thickness of the walls.

Such a stove can withstand difficult temperature conditions of use longer and does not burn out. Instead of a cylinder, you can use any pipe with a wall thickness of more than one and a half millimeters.

Various steel barrels are excellent for making Bubafoni. An important point is that the seam of the barrel must be welded and in no case soldered. Soldering does not withstand high temperatures and inevitably breaks down after the first use.

Two-hundred-liter barrels of fuel and lubricants are best suited. It’s even better if this barrel is from the times of the Soviet Union - the walls of such containers are much thicker than modern ones, and the quality of the steel itself is higher.

Before making your sample, you should decide on the size and basis for the future stove based on what needs to be heated, in what climate zone the heated room is located, what temperature needs to be maintained in the room.

For an ordinary potbelly stove, the square-cube law applies. The same applies to Bubafon. The essence of the law regarding stoves is that the size of the fuel chamber of a stove should only be increased to a certain size.

A further increase will lead to excessive fuel consumption, since the surface area giving off heat increases in the square, but the volume of the combustion chamber will increase in the cube, i.e., much more fuel will need to be loaded, and the heat will be received disproportionately to the increase in the load.

For “Bubafoni” this law applies only in terms of diameter; any height can be made. It depends on how much continuous operation time is required and is not related to power. To maintain a comfortable temperature in winter in utility rooms, change houses, greenhouses, garages, from eighty to one hundred and fifty, two hundred watts per square meter of room area is required.

If the ceiling height is non-standard, then you should proceed from the volume of air heated by the stove. In this case, thirty - sixty, eighty watts of thermal energy should be allocated per cubic meter. The volume of air is calculated simply - you need to multiply the area of ​​​​the room by its height in meters.

The more insulated the walls, ceiling and windows of a building are, the lower the furnace required and the less burning intensity. The power of the unit can be calculated using the formula e=M*e, where M is the mass of the fuel loaded, and e is the specific thermal output of the type of fuel being loaded.

To make Bubafoni you will need the following tools:

And materials:

• Barrel or cylinders, or sheet steel with a thickness of at least one and a half millimeters.
• Pipes of various diameters.
• Channels or angles made of steel.
• Mineral wool (optional).
• Ball-type condensate drain valve.

Making “Bubafoni” should begin with choosing a base. The most common option is cylinders and barrels. Below we will consider an example of assembling a device from a propane cylinder:

"Bubafonya" can be subjected to various upgrades:

• To increase heat transfer, you can weld ribs of any size and shape to the furnace body.
• To improve convective heat transfer You can wrap the body with a profiled sheet.
• To reduce condensation, insulate the vertical section of the chimney with mineral wool.
• Instead of the adjusting cap, you can install round magnet of suitable size.
• To organize air intake from the street, you can put a corrugated air duct on the supply pipe and lead it into a hole in the wall of the building. The corrugation should not interfere with the free movement of the piston in the chamber.

This stove can be equipped with a water jacket and connected to radiators. To do this, you need to weld a sealed casing to the full height of the body and cut into it two inch pipes for water distribution fittings. The casing should be made with a gap of 4-8 centimeters to the furnace wall. The difference in the height of the exit and return should be at least forty centimeters.

Furnace fuel

Almost any solid fuel is suitable for Bubafoni:

• Standard firewood or logs.
• Fuel and .
• High-quality coal that does not form caking combustion products.
• Waste fiberboard and chipboard.
• Brushwood, straw.

When firing a furnace, preference should be given to less ash fuel. This will allow you to clean the unit less frequently and will help avoid the piston getting stuck in the firebox during the combustion process.

This is what “Bubafonya” looks like from the inside when the fuel in it is smoldering

Operating rules

In order to light the stove, perform the following operations:

1. Load the chamber with fuel just below the bottom edge of the chimney.
2. Place sawdust or wood chips and paper in the upper part. You can add a small amount of used motor oil or special lighter fluid.
3. Light the top layer.
4. Place the piston into the firebox.
5. Close the lid.
6. After making sure that the combustion process has started, adjust the air supply depending on the required power.

In case of attenuation, you need to repeat the procedure. The stove should be cleaned when a layer of ash accumulates more than twenty-five centimeters.

• Do not use volatile liquids (gasoline, ether, alcohol, etc.) for ignition.
• If the fuel has different moisture content, it should be sorted to avoid piston jamming.
• When the required room temperature is reached, the air supply should be reduced to save fuel.

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A stove made from a gas cylinder will turn out to be more economical and efficient than manufacturing equal in complexity from other available materials. The shape of the gas cylinder itself will help. The quality of a stove is largely determined by its firebox. The ideal firebox in all respects is spherical. Considering that the firebox must have at least 2 openings - an inlet, for loading fuel and supplying air, and an outlet, for the release of exhaust gases into the chimney, the optimal shape of the firebox is not a very long and narrow cylinder with rounded ends, and that’s what the cylinder is. Its shape is chosen based on the need to maintain greater pressure with minimal metal consumption, but the result is the same.

What kind of stove can be made from a cylinder?

Since the shape of the firebox is optimized on the most general basis, then stoves made from cylinders can be very different - from flaming combustion to sophisticated designs, from which even an experienced heating engineer, as they say, turns his eyes back. This article examines several furnaces, arranged in increasing order of manufacturing complexity; their purpose is also taken into account:

• for residential premises.
• Heating systems for non-residential premises.
• Summer cooking.
• Universal small-sized portable emergency; stove just in case.

The need to minimize the cost of additional materials and the ability to make a stove with your own hands without complex tools and/or technological operations are also taken into account. Of course, a prerequisite is sufficient convenience and safety of use. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give recommendations on the legalization of homemade stoves: fire regulations for them are very strict. Here everyone needs to resolve the issue on the spot, as best they can. Or don’t decide at all: building stoves yourself is not prohibited anywhere, but possible consequences will fall entirely on the author/owner.

Note: the requirement of maximum simplicity and low cost does not apply to the rocket stove described at the end. However, this stove not only heats a large room using wood chips, but also allows you to get a real warm bed at home without building a brick stove. And the costs of materials and labor required are several times less.

Which cylinder should I look for?

First of all: the stove requires an all-metal cylinder. Composite explosion-proof ones are not suitable, they are not heat-resistant. A 5-liter household cylinder (item 1 in the figure) is definitely not suitable for the main part of the stove: it’s too small. The ratio of its surface to volume will give such heat loss that it will not be possible to completely burn any fuel. Making additional thermal insulation is not worth the trouble. The complexity of the work, the cost of materials, the dimensions and weight of the furnace will increase so much that all the work loses its meaning.

Note: The only possible use of a 5-liter cylinder is a fuel tank for a liquid fuel stove. Two of these will be discussed below.

12 and 27 liter cylinders (items 2 and 3) allow you to make a stove just in case, which can also be stored in the pantry of a city apartment. From a 12-liter one as a stove you can remove a thermal power of 2-3 kW, and from a 27-liter one – 5-7 kW.

The best preparation for the stove is the most common 50-liter propane cylinder with a diameter of 300 mm and a height of 850 mm (item 4). Its volume is already sufficient for efficient combustion of any fuel by any known method, and its weight and dimensions do not yet complicate the work. In addition, there are many such cylinders in use that are still in good working order, but have exhausted their service life according to the specifications; they can be bought inexpensively. Most of the stoves described below are made from just such cylinders.

Note: if you have a choice, you should use a cylinder with a valve rather than a valve. The valve makes an excellent stove power regulator by supplying air (air throttle).

As for the common 40-liter cylinders for industrial gases (item 5) with a caliber of 240 mm, they are poorly suited for the furnace: although the walls of thick durable metal will ensure the durability of the furnace, the cylinders themselves are too narrow, heavy and bulky. A good powerful stove, up to 100 kW or more, could be made from a 12- or 18-inch professional cylinder, but they are rare, expensive, and not every healthy man can shoulder such an empty one.

In principle, it would be possible to make camp stoves from small 2-10 liter industrial cylinders, but again, the metal is thick, durable, difficult to work with, and the stove itself will be too heavy. There are, however, in the population of small special balloons some exotic individuals that make excellent ones; We will talk about them later.

From simple to complex: balloon stove

You probably guessed even earlier that the simplest homemade stove from a gas cylinder is an emergency backup stove, 12 or 27 liters. You can use a 50-liter stove on it, but such a stove will no longer fit in a city pantry. A balloon potbelly stove will not be able to regularly heat several generations: the relatively thin metal of the body of a household cylinder will burn out. But it’s quite possible to heat a shed with it from time to time or to stay on it until it’s warm.

The design is extremely simple, see fig. Of the purchased components, you only need a firebox door or a monoblock from the furnace/blower chamber. Here, the theoretically optimal shape of a thick, curly cylinder works best: a cylinder potbelly stove does not need a grate with an ash pan, or any internal partitions. One thing that is necessary, like any potbelly stove, for good heat transfer is a horizontal chimney elbow made of a metal pipe with a length of 2-2.5 m.

Note: the chimney diameter of a 12-liter potbelly stove is 60 mm, a 27-liter stove is 80 mm, a 50-liter stove is 100-120 mm.

Balloon cooking

Gas cylinders make good grills. They also burn fuel, but these are no longer ovens, but culinary technological equipment, and quite a lot has been written about it. Therefore, we will not dwell further on gas-cylinder cooking. However, those interested, as they say, without leaving the cash register, to find out how to make a barbecue grill from a cylinder yourself, can watch the video:

About pyrolysis

In all of the following designs of cylinder stoves, pyrolysis is used to one degree or another - decomposition under the influence of high temperature of heavy organic compounds into light, volatile and flammable ones. Pyrolysis allows you to burn everything that, in principle, can burn, completely - down to carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is hardly possible to build a furnace with an efficiency of more than 70% without pyrolysis.

One of the main parameters of the pyrolysis process that must be taken into account when developing a furnace is the degree of its complexity. Simply put, this is the number of thermochemical reactions required to break the original complex and heavy molecules into those capable of burning to completion.

Pyrolysis of heavy flammable liquids (eg used motor oil) usually occurs in 2-3 stages. Wood fuel breaks down into easily combustible gases in a multi-stage process, and its complete pyrolysis requires 5-6 times more time than in a liquid fuel stove.

Since the exhaust gases move from the combustion source into the chimney under the influence of draft, pyrolysis ends at some distance from the firebox. For oil furnaces it is insignificant, about 10-15 cm, and in them pyrolysis can be combined in space with afterburning of pyrolysis gases. This condition is also true for coal stoves; volatile components of coal are released and disintegrate easily.

For complete pyrolysis of wood fuel, a gas-flame path length of about 1 m is required, and in its space it is necessary to distinguish, physically or implicitly, 3 zones (chambers): the firebox itself (gasifier), where the fuel burns and primary pyrolysis gases are released, a secondary gasifier (reactor ) with a supply of secondary air (secondary air), where pyrolysis is completely completed, and an afterburner, also with a secondary supply, where light gases are completely burned. These conditions must be taken into account when designing a wood stove.

Oil garage

The next most difficult, costly and labor-intensive method is from a balloon. This product is in great demand: you can heat a garage with such a stove for nothing, but there is no large-scale production, firemen prohibit it. Let us briefly recall the principle of its operation.

The oil burns quietly in the fuel tank; air is supplied here in doses using an air throttle. Here the heat of its combustion goes mainly to evaporation. The vapors rise into a vertical gasification column, or reactor. The reactor walls are perforated; outside air flows freely through the holes. the pressure in the entire furnace duct due to the draft of the chimney is lower than atmospheric.

The influx of air sharply increases the combustion of oil vapors, the temperature rises and pyrolysis begins. The pyrolysis products also begin to burn, causing the temperature to rise even more; in the middle part of the reactor it can reach 1300 degrees. At this temperature, nitrogen oxides are formed in noticeable quantities. Nitrogen oxidation is an endothermic reaction; it consumes a significant part of the fuel energy. However, nitrogen oxidation is useful in this case: it protects the furnace from overheating and explosion; The rate of formation of nitrogen oxides increases sharply with increasing temperature, according to a power law.

In the upper part of the reactor, the pyrolysis gases have almost burned out and there is a large excess of air. For complete afterburning in the column, it would have to be made several meters high and solid, without perforation, but then the nitrogen oxides would have passed the peak of their temperature instability and carried a noticeable share of the fuel energy into the pipe. To avoid this, gases from the reactor are released into an afterburner or afterburner.

The afterburner is divided approximately in half by an incomplete partition. Directly in front of it, pyrolysis gases burn out, maintaining a temperature that prevents the stabilization of nitrogen oxides. Behind the partition, all the oxygen in the air is already consumed, but the temperature here is still above 700 degrees. Now nitrogen oxides decompose with the release of energy back into nitrogen and oxygen, which is used for afterburning of the remaining pyrolysis gases; the energy release of these 2 processes maintains an approximately constant temperature in the afterburner.

The outlet to the chimney from the afterburner is located away from the partition, but it is enough to move it 15-20 cm away from it: thermochemical reactions in oil gases proceed quickly. Already completely burnt gases with a temperature of about 400 degrees go into the chimney, which ensures the efficiency of the furnace up to 80% and higher.

Typically, for furnaces used for exhaust from cylinders, a 50-liter propane bottle is used, cut in a ratio of 2:1, a third goes to the tank, and 2/3 to the afterburner, pos. 1 in Fig. From such a stove you can remove up to 30 kW of heat, but there are also plenty of emergencies with a serious outcome from them.

However, the magazine “Behind the Wheel” has long ago published the design of a garage furnace for working off with a power of 5-7 kW with a reservoir from a 5-liter cylinder. With such a low power, it was possible to combine the reactor with the afterburner into a single fully functional column:

1. In the lower cone of the column, the gases expand and the temperature drops to a value sufficient for pyrolysis, but almost eliminating nitrogen oxidation.
2. The perforation of the column is rare and the air flow through it is in slight excess.
3. In the upper cone, the gases are again retained for a time sufficient for complete combustion at a power of up to approximately 8 kW.

Nitrogen oxides are still formed in this furnace, but in negligible quantities, ensuring only automatic adjustment of the furnace mode. Operational power control is ensured by a rotary valve on the filling neck, which is also an air throttle.

This furnace can be significantly improved if there is a 10 or 12 liter industrial cylinder with a caliber of 150 mm and a height of 800/900 mm. These most often sell helium for inflating balloons. The profitability of the balloon business reaches 400%, but it most often takes place on temporary promotions, and the shelf life of a balloon filled with helium is limited and short: helium is the second record holder after hydrogen for diffusion speed. Therefore, completely serviceable helium cylinders are often sold cheaply.

Note: We do not recommend trying to run a helium business alone. All over the world, the flower and holiday mafia has firmly laid its paw on him, which, they say, even Cosa Nostra bypasses.

The design of a “helium-propane” 2-cylinder furnace for mining is shown in pos. 4. The thick walls of the cylinder distribute heat more evenly along its height, and the dome at the top and the narrow, 60-80 mm outlet into the chimney trap gases more effectively than a cone. Therefore, the perforation of the column and, accordingly, the air flow can be increased, obtaining a power of 10-12 kW. A maximum filling of 3.5 liters is enough for 3-4 hours of operation at full power.

At the same time, you can improve the fuel-air system. A standard cylinder valve is perfect for the throttle; you just need to extend it from the inside with a thin-walled steel tube, pos. 4a. You can simply screw it, as hard as you can, onto the part of the fitting protruding inward: the landing thread on it is tapered, so it will grab tightly.

It is better to make the filling fitting retractable and sliding in the neck, pos. 4b. Through the extended fitting, the stove is ignited and the fuel level is monitored. And when retracted, you can relatively safely add oil while the oven is running.

If the stove is constantly heated, then it is still advisable to remember about sappers, for whom the most dangerous is not the first, but some N-th mine. You can completely guarantee against an emergency with a stove by arranging a fuel supply from a separate feed tank or just a feeder, pos. 5. The height of the feeder should not exceed the maximum permissible fuel level in the tank (for a 5-liter tank this is approximately 2/3 of its height), and the feeder must be located at least 0.5 m from the stove. This way you can control the fuel level and refuel the stove as you please. In addition, the volume of the feeder can be any, only its height is limited, so it is quite possible to adapt a tank for it with refilling for a day or more.

"Long" stoves

In this case, this metaphor does not mean stoves made from recumbent industrial cylinders, but from ordinary 50-liter wood fuel stoves. In the long-term burning mode, wood undergoes pyrolysis, which greatly increases the efficiency and duration of heat transfer of stoves. The fuel in them (from dry sawdust and weeds to fragments of antique furniture) burns in a thin layer from the surface, which is why “long” stoves are sometimes called surface burning stoves.

Pyrolysis can occur either in a physically limited separate volume with subsequent combustion of the pyrolysis gases in an afterburner (these are furnaces with separate combustion), or the pyrogen gases immediately evaporate into a large, well-heated buffer chamber, where pyrolysis is completed and the pyrogen gases burn, these are co-combustion furnaces. To ensure high efficiency of both, it is highly desirable to heat the air entering the pyrolysis zone.

Bubafonya

An example of a long-burning furnace with separate combustion is the widely known one. In it, pyrolysis is concentrated under the “pancake” oppression. The diagram of the bubafoni device is shown in Fig. on right; As the fuel burns, the air duct with the pancake moves down. Much has already been written in detail about the operating principles and features of making bubafons, so we will only note the following:

• The efficiency of a homemade bubafon can exceed 85%, and the duration of heat transfer from one load of fuel can reach a day.
• Fuel for bubafoni needs to be room-dry with a humidity of up to 12%
• It is permissible to add fuel to the bubafon while moving, but you cannot stop it; for maintenance/repair work you need to wait until the load is completely burned out.
• The diameter of a 50-liter bottle of 300 mm is the minimum acceptable for bubafoni, so this stove must be made from it carefully and with a full understanding of the matter.

Bubafonya is a very economical stove and is well suited for heating garages and households. premises. Its design is simple and can be made at home. On the trail. rice. The main stages of the working process and dimensions are shown specifically for balloon bubafoni with a power of up to 5-6 kW. You just need to add that the gaps for air supply between the root (closest to the air duct) ends of the blades must be kept the same. When welding, instead of a jig, it is convenient to use suitable scraps of metal - pieces of rod, etc. The blades are first grabbed from the outside, and then, after removing the “conductors,” they are cooked to the end.

Note: The power of the bubafoni can be adjusted within a wide range, up to 10 times, but only manually, because The air throttle can only be installed at the upper end of the air duct, which is movable.

Slobozhanka

The Slobozhanka combined combustion furnace is even simpler in design and not inferior to the Bubafon in terms of parameters, diagram in Fig. on right. But it’s hardly worth making a slobozhanka from a balloon, because its minimum permissible diameter is about 500 mm and a balloon slobozhanka will not show good efficiency. In addition, all Slobozhanka stoves have very serious disadvantages:

Construction of the Slobozhanka stove

1. Extremely toxic gases accumulate under the roof of the stove; if you open the stove lid while moving, you can be poisoned to death.
2. There is no way to stop the Slobozhanka: if you close the throttle, the stove will pull air back through the chimney before choking. The pressure in the furnace will exceed atmospheric pressure and the toxic mixture will come out.
3. A hard, dense carbon deposit settles on the hearth or grate of the furnace, as in all “long” furnaces. After about a year (this is with good fuel), it grows to the mouth of the air duct, and it is difficult to knock it down and in easily accessible places.

A beautiful stranger

Most other homemade “long” stoves are no better, but more complicated than bubafoni. But there is one, almost purely pyrolysis stove (which is rare with wood), worthy of attention; its drawing is shown in Fig. In addition, this stove is also a hopper stove, which is also rare for wood stoves.

According to the principle of operation, the “stranger” is a simplified and truncated rocket stove, about which see next. section The retention of pyrogases in the afterburner under the hob is achieved by a diaphragm in the chimney, in exactly the same way as washers distribute coolant from the heating main to consumers. In the furnace business, such a constructive technique is rare, because any weakening of draft deteriorates the quality of the stove, but in this case the creators turned evil into good.

How? Power limitation: this is an exclusively summer-country cooking stove. It’s only enough for cooking, although you can squeeze several times more out of a 50-liter bottle. But the “stranger” works on any flammable garbage that can be pushed into the bunker; best of all - on fairly long chips, branches and dry stems, and it is much more economical, cheaper, simpler and lighter than the simplest brick slab. A foundation here, of course, is not needed, and a chimney with a height of 1.5-2 m is sufficient. The furnace is ignited from the top, through the neck of the gasifier or the loading hatch, using a flammable liquid.

The authors of the “stranger” cannot be denied knowledge of heating engineering, but with metal they were a little too clever: separate, and even removable gasifiers under the stoves and vault (the bottom-grate and partition in the original) are simply not needed here. The bottom can be the bottom of the 50-liter cylinder itself with the same 20-mm hole in the center, and the ash pan can be placed in its skirt. The outlet pipe of the gasifier is welded onto the dome of the cylinder, and the afterburner can be made from a piece of 300 mm pipe or sheet metal. In this case, it is quite possible to clean the stove through the fuel bunker and the gasifier outlet.

The crown of creation, or...

Emela never dreamed of it

The crown of balloon-stove creativity is, without a doubt, the rocket stove, see fig. But not only and not so much because doing it according to all the rules requires considerable (albeit uncomplicated) work, attention, ingenuity and accuracy. The main thing is that the rocket stove was purposely created for a 50-liter bottle, although most often it is made from a barrel. Not only the shape, but also the dimensions of a 50-liter propane cylinder are optimal for this stove: if a rocket from a barrel heats a horizontal section of the chimney in a stove bench (hog) up to 6 m long, then a balloon one, with a drum capacity four times smaller (see below for details) - up to 4 m. It’s unlikely that anyone will need a bed of this length, but the rocket hog can be made from thin-walled metal corrugation, laying it in a wave-like pattern in the mass of the bed. This, of course, will greatly increase both the efficiency of heating the room and the duration of heat transfer after heating, which can reach 12 hours.

The advantages of a rocket stove do not end there:

• This is a stove that not only burns long, but also continuously burns. Additional fuel can be added while the furnace is running without restrictions.
• The rocket stove can also be stopped and re-ignited without restrictions, and the ignition itself is simply simple: with paper, straw or shavings, like a fire.
• The rocket stove breathes, just like .
• Unlike brick stoves, a rocket stove is almost insensitive to long breaks in the firebox during the cold season.
• Acceleration of a newly built or standing rocket stove is also simple: heating with paper, shavings or straw until the stove becomes warm to the touch.
• The foundation of the rocket furnace is not needed: although its weight is under a ton, the support area is large and the load from the furnace on the floor does not exceed the permissible 250 kg per square meter according to SNiP. m.

The rocket stove has only 2 disadvantages, and, as they say, not fatal. Firstly, after kindling and, possibly, during the combustion process, it is necessary to set the stove mode by adjusting the air supply. If the stove makes a loud noise, this does not mean that it heats better. On the contrary, in this mode the gas-air path quickly becomes overgrown with carbon deposits; A correctly heated stove whispers quietly.

Secondly, the furnace power is regulated only by the amount of fuel loading. On-line power adjustment is generally impossible; Only the oven mode is set by air supply. While driving, you can not only add more fuel to increase power, but also pull out individual smoldering chips with tongs and immediately extinguish them, but this is a fire hazard.

Note: if “at a whisper” the stove seems to be heating weakly, it doesn’t matter, wait until the heat goes into the battery. The oven will release it later, cooling down after heating. If you need to quickly warm up, without thinking about fuel consumption yet, open the air until it starts to hum. It is not advisable to bring it to a loud roar; the carbon deposits inside will settle heavily.

How does a rocket work?

The design and principle of operation of a rocket stove. Here we recall the most important things.

The idea of ​​a rocket furnace “on fingers” is as follows: imagine 2 physically connected processes with an efficiency of less than 100%; Let's say 90% each. For the 2nd to occur, the products of the 1st are needed. If they are launched together at once, then due to mutual interference caused by entropy, the final efficiency will not exceed 65%. And if you “scroll” the 1st one first, save its results somewhere and then run the 2nd one on them, then the maximum overall efficiency will be slightly more than 80%.

In the most general sense, this is a universal law. It is thanks to him that the market economy, with all its cumbersome and gluttonous financial, administrative and power superstructures, turns out to be more effective than a natural economy. In a rocket stove, this law is technically implemented by the sequential inclusion of 2 stoves, one that generates heat and one that stores and heats.

The stove-generator consists of (see Fig.) a blower 1a with an air supply regulator (it sets the stove into operation), a fuel hopper 1b with a blind lid, a channel for supplying secondary air 1b to ensure complete combustion of the fuel, a flame pipe (fire pipe) 1d and internal or primary chimney - riser - 1d. The fire duct cannot be made too short or long: it must, on the one hand, heat the secondary air well, without which complete combustion of wood pyro-gases cannot be achieved. On the other hand, in a fire pipeline that is too long, the gases themselves will cool down and pyrolysis will not reach completion. The entire generating stove is securely wrapped in high-quality thermal insulation with the lowest possible heat capacity. All that is required of the primary furnace is to completely burn the fuel and release a stream of burnt hot gases from the riser.

Note: from an efficiency point of view, the optimal internal diameter of the riser is 70 mm. But if you want to achieve maximum furnace power, then you need a riser pipe with a diameter of 100 mm; then its shell needs not 150, but 200 mm. In this case, the efficiency decreases slightly. Further, when describing the technology for constructing the furnace, the dimensions are given for both cases.

The basis of the heating and storage part of the furnace is a high-capacity heat accumulator, but it is impossible to immediately release gases from the riser into it, their temperature is about 1000 degrees. There are good heat-resistant heat-storing materials, but they are very expensive, so the authors of the rocket stove used adobe as a storage device. Its heat capacity is enormous, but it is not heat resistant, so the secondary furnace must start with a high-grade to mid-grade heat converter, with temperatures up to 300 degrees. In addition, part of the primary heat must be released into the room immediately to compensate for current heat losses.

All these functions are performed by the furnace drum, and a 50-liter cylinder will be used for it. Gases from the riser enter under the cover of the drum 2a with the cooking surface 2b. The drum is thin-walled metal, it transfers heat well into the room. Having rolled under the lid, the gases enter the annular lowering of the drum between its tube 2g and the metal shell of the riser insulation 2v. Under the drum 2d is also metal; the metal does not allow flue gases into the insulation of the primary furnace.

The fact is that inexpensive and high-quality insulating materials are porous. Let flue gases flow into them - their pores will be drawn in, they will quickly become clogged with fumes, and all the insulation, and with it the efficiency of the furnace, will go down the drain. Adobe is also porous and is also very easily spoiled by carbon deposits. Therefore, the primary task when building a rocket stove is to ensure complete tightness of the gas and smoke duct.

In the drum, approximately 1/3 of its height from the top, the gases have already cooled enough to transfer their heat to the storage tank. From this height to the bottom, the lining (coating) of the entire stove with adobe begins. In the drum, the flue gases release, outward and into the storage tank, approximately half of the heat generated by the generator, but it is too early to transfer them to the heat exchanger: from the drum, through its outlet, 2e gases enter the secondary ash pan 3a with a sealed cleaning door 3b, and then into a long horizontal section of the chimney (hog) 4. From the hog, the gases that have almost completely given up heat to the adobe bed are released into a regular external chimney.

Why is a secondary ash pan needed? The gases coming out of the drum are not very hot and are already chemically neutral, because burned out to the end. But they still contain a small amount of solid suspension; mainly microparticles of mineral components of wood. And the hog, as mentioned above, is made of thin metal fiber and is also laid with twists, and this entire pipe is tightly walled up, so it is impossible to clean the hog. If you let dirty gases into it, the gap will soon become overgrown with soot and the bed will have to be broken. And in the secondary ash pan, the suspension settles. Once or twice a year it will have to be raked out, but the stove will now last for many years.

So now we know enough to start building a rocket stove. That's what we'll do.

Building a rocket

First, we need to stock up on 5 types of linings. However, their components are either inexpensive or just lying around, and it’s not difficult to prepare the mixtures yourself:

1. 5a - the most common adobe: clay, thoroughly mixed with finely chopped straw and mixed with water until the dough becomes thick. Because the bed was not blown or saklya, except for its weight it is not loaded with anything and is located indoors, the quality of the clay does not matter much, you can take a self-dug gully one.
2. 5b – main heat insulator. Medium-fat oven clay in half with crushed stone from light fireclay bricks ШЛ. Water until the dough becomes thick.
3. 5v – heat-resistant, gas-tight, mechanically strong coating. Regular fireclay sand with oven clay 1:1 by volume. Water until it reaches the consistency of plasticine.
4. 5g – self-dug sand, river or ravine, or very thin sandy loam. No washing or calcination is needed; just sift through a 3 mm sieve.
5. 5d – medium-fat oven clay.

Some clarifications. It is better to introduce grass straw into adobe (meadow grass hay), with it the strength, which we do not really need, will be lower, but the heat capacity will also be greater. As for the recipes for making adobe, choose any suitable one; for a rocket stove it is not important. You can do it as in the video below, but we don’t need to build the entire house.

Video: making adobe

Mixture 5b requires crushed stone (not sand!) and only SHL. Other fireclays (ShM, ShV, etc.) are themselves good heat accumulators; it’s not for nothing that stove fireboxes are made from them. But in this case, a large heat capacity will only do harm. It is advisable to add more crushed stone, as long as the clay glues it together.

The purpose of the 5v mixture is to extend the life of the stove. All the metal structures in it are steel with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm, so it is necessary for the rocket to “fly” properly. But in the heat path, thin metal will quickly burn. However, by that time the 5B coating will have been fired, and over time, sections of steel pipes will spontaneously be replaced by ceramic ones. True, then the stove will have to be cleaned carefully (the riser, although slowly, still becomes overgrown with carbon deposits), after all, it is fragile.

5g contains a fairly large admixture of alumina. It is undesirable in construction sand, so it is discarded. But alumina is just right for the lining of the riser: the heat capacity of the mixture is minimal, and when sintered, it will also gain some strength. And they get the raw materials for free.

Note: The riser can also be lined with composition 5b, but, firstly, it costs money. Secondly, the work will take a lot of time - you will have to line it in layers, with the previous layer completely drying, otherwise the coating in the shell will dry for an inordinately long time and the inside will certainly crack.

Stage 0

First you need to make a bed for the stove, see fig. – a durable wooden trestle bed of the required configuration. Its frame is made of intersecting quarter-mortise logs (beam 100x100 mm) with a mesh of at least 600x900 mm under the stove and at least 600x1200 mm under the stove bench itself. The oblong cells of the frame are oriented along the bed. The curved edges of the frame are brought to the contour using scraps of timber and boards.

Note: There is no need to raise the bed any higher; taking into account the power of the lining of the bed, it will be convenient.

The frame is covered with 40 mm tongue and groove boards. The joints of the deck boards should be oriented perpendicular to the long sides of the frame cells. The ends of the beams and boards protruding beyond the desired contour of the bench are sawn to shape immediately, but its outer contour remains free for now; it will be lined with plasterboard, etc. upon completion of the furnace construction.

Before assembly, parts are first impregnated with biocide, and the entire structure is impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion. The frame parts are fastened at the crosshairs with diagonal pairs of 6x90 mm confirmats, and the flooring boards are attached to the frame with longitudinal pairs of 6x60 mm confirmats, a pair in a board for each longitudinal joist.

Then, at the place where the stove is permanently installed, 4 mm mineral cardboard is laid on the floor with some margin for cutting along the contour, and the place above which the stove itself will be is additionally covered with a sheet of roofing iron; it needs to be cut to shape in advance, taking into account that the offset before the furnace fire must be at least 100 mm, this is enough for a rocket.

Now the bed is moved to its place. An exit to the outer chimney is immediately arranged, somewhere at the rear edge of the bed. Its lower edge should be 70-90 mm above level A of the furnace lining (see figure with the main diagram), i.e. 120-140 mm from the level of the bed flooring.

Stage 1

On the bed along the entire contour, a strong formwork of height A is made, according to the basic layout of the furnace (40-50 mm), with a smooth top edge. If the bed is adjacent to the wall, the formwork is brought up to the walls, and the level of its top is beaten along them with a cord. Then the formwork is filled with adobe and its surface is smoothed with a polish - a flat, smooth board with a rounded corner. If the formwork is incomplete and it is inconvenient to guide the far end of the glaze along the mark, you can still lean beacons made of strips of plywood against the walls; they are removed when the adobe dries, and the cracks are filled in.

Stage 2

While level A is drying, let's start making a drum from a cylinder, see fig. First, cut off its top so that a hole with a diameter of 200-220 mm is obtained (don’t forget to vent the remaining gas!), It is covered with a steel round 3-4 mm thick, this will be the hob. Then they make a cut 40-50 mm below the top welding seam of the cylinder, this is almost the lid.

A thin sheet metal skirt is welded to the lid. Its side seam also needs to be welded; it will take the skirt away from the seam connection. Cook at a direct current of 60 A with a 2-mm electrode. I must say that holding the arc in this mode is quite difficult; you need to be a fairly experienced welder. After installing the skirt, holes are drilled in it for M4-M5 bolts, 3-6 holes. evenly around the circumference, 20-25 mm from the bottom edge.

The third cut of the balloon is below the bottom seam, where the tube begins to turn into a rounded bottom. There is no need to remove the remnants of the balloon skirt, as this will only hold it more firmly in the stove. Now at the bottom of the tube we make a cutout for its outlet in the form of a horizontally elongated rectangle. Its height is 70 mm, and its width depends on the chosen riser pipe, see the inset at the top right of the main diagram.

The next operation is laying the sealing gasket. It requires a braided asbestos cord; woven shaggy twine is not suitable. The cord is glued with superglue or, better, “Moment”. Then the glue, of course, will burn out, but the gasket will stick to the residue, especially since the cover will have to be removed once a year, not every year.

Having laid the gasket, immediately, as soon as the glue has set, we put on the lid and place a load of 2-3 kg on it. Under load, we mark the location of the hole in the tube. After removing the cover, drill and tap the thread. Now we insert the tube into the inverted lid and measure the depth of the drum, this is necessary to clarify the height of the riser pipe. We separate the lid from the tube so that the gasket is not soaked through with glue and the cord does not lose its elasticity, stage 2 is completed.

Stage 3

Level A will take a week or two to dry, and during this time we will work on the combustion part of the furnace. Parts 1a, 1b and 1d from professional pipe 150x150 mm; 1D riser pipe is round. When marking workpieces, you must observe the distance indicated on the main diagram from the rear edge of the hopper, when viewed from the side of the blower, to the front edge of the drum. Within the specified limits, it is arbitrary, based on the location of the furnace and its design. The forward movement of the blower is also arbitrary, but, of course, within reasonable limits. There is no need to push the blower under the bunker either, the valve will be hot. The best option is to cut the blower flush with the front edge of the bunker, as in the diagram.

After cutting out the holes for the bunker and riser pipe, the first step is to weld in the partition of the secondary air channel 1b, at a height of 30 mm from the bottom of the firebox. A full seam is not needed, 2 clamps through the not yet welded rear end of the firebox, 2-4 through the hole for the hopper and 2 through the ash pan are enough. Material – sheet steel 1.5-2.5 mm.

Note: The tilt angle of the bunker can be within 45-90 degrees from the horizontal. But when tilted at 45 degrees, rough wood chips can get stuck, and if the bunker is vertical, then when adding fuel, your hand ends up dangerously close to the hot drum. Therefore, a slope of 60 degrees was chosen.

The rear edge of the air baffle should be flush with the front edge of the riser pipe hole. Its front edge should protrude outward by 20-25 mm. This shelf is needed to avoid littering when cleaning the stove: this design does not allow the use of a grate with a retractable ash pan, and the ash will have to be scraped into a tray; its edge is slipped under the shelf. However, the rocket furnace produces nothing but ash.

It is better to make the blower valve with a vertical stroke in grooves with flat springs; a rotary door will not ensure proper smooth adjustment of the furnace mode, and a throttle with a rotary damper is more difficult to make. The hopper lid is bent from galvanized steel. There is no need for complete tightness here, as long as it fits tightly.

When the combustion metal structure is ready (don’t forget to weld the riser pipe and weld the back of the flame pipe!), it is lined with a 5B compound in a layer of 10-12 mm, as shown in the diagram. Continuous coating is given only along the bottom. The top and sides of the blower from its front edge to the hopper are left free. Having been lined, they are placed to dry.

Dry by putting the blower part on the pole. At first, they inspect it regularly: if the coating slips, it is removed and a new portion is made from richer clay and with less water. Do not rely on chance, this is a responsible operation!

Stage 4

The combustion part will dry out soon (2-3 days), and during this time it is quite possible to make formwork for insulation and lay its bottom layer, because Level A adobe has already dried enough to hold a small amount of weight. The design of the formwork is clear from Fig. The meaning of what is marked in red will become clear later. Formwork is made from boards or plywood 20-25 mm thick. There is no need to firmly fasten the parts, because... the formwork will then have to be dismantled. Thin wire brackets on the outside at the corners are sufficient; You can just cover it with tape.

The formwork is put in place with the outer edge of the front plank level with the edge of the bed and exactly along the axis of the future stove. You need to install it carefully, with measurements, otherwise the parts of the stove will not fit together later. You can prevent accidental displacement with thin pointed pegs, sticking them into the adobe from the outside. The beacons along which the bottom layer of insulation will be aligned are made of any material, but their height must be exactly equal to that of the front formwork strip.

Stage 5

The formwork is filled with mixture 5b to level B. The filling surface is leveled with a glaze along the beacons and the front strip.

Stage 6

While the insulating pad dries out and the combustion part dries out, we make the shell of the riser and under the drum. With the shell, everything is simple: either a piece of pipe, or we bend it from a thin (1-2 mm) sheet. Both, of course, are made of steel. If the shell is made of sheet metal, the seam can be folded; a perfect circle is not necessary.

Note: there is no need to make a shell below the riser pipe and then use clay (see below) to round the top of the riser. The stove works better if the gases flow into the lower part with a bend.

Under the drum, as can be seen in the diagram, is inclined. This is necessary for better flow turbulence in the secondary ash pan, see below. But if you thought: “Well, now we’ll cut out an ellipse within an ellipse!”, then you’re in vain. With a tilt of 10 degrees, the major axis of the ellipse turns out to be as much as 304.5 mm, but we need a smaller one, 5-7 degrees.

That is, we make the outer diameter of the hearth blank (steel sheet 2-3 mm) 4 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the drum, and the diameter of the cutout for the shell is 3 mm larger than its outer diameter, and it will fit like a native one. After installing the hearth, we will coat the cracks along the outer and inner contours (marked with green circles in the diagram) with 5d clay, bringing the sausages into the fillets simply with your finger.

Stage 7

We check whether level 5B is completely dry. This can be done by temporarily removing the front formwork strip. If not, we take a smoke break (sorry, we are struggling with nicotine. We drink juice.) for a day or two.

If it’s dry, we put the furnace part into the formwork; its coating is probably already dry. It is also necessary to place it exactly along the axis of the furnace, vertically and horizontally, with measurements: the drum and shell should ultimately be concentric plus or minus 2 mm, and the top of the secondary ash pan (see below) fit tightly under the upper edge of the drum outlet. We set the front edge of the blower flush with the outer edge of the formwork and, accordingly, the bed. At the same time, it will protrude from the insulation to the thickness of the formwork board, this is just enough to then smear it with adobe on the outside: the insulation used is effective, but also sensitive to air humidity.

We fix the exposed combustion part with pegs, just like the formwork. Let them remain in the mass of isolation, no big deal. Now we install additional front panels and fill the formwork to the top with mixture 5b, this is where we have reached the level G of the lining. It is no longer necessary to completely level it, so as not to accidentally catch the bunker protruding from the solution. It is enough to iron it with a polish, resting on the edges of the formwork, in the area where the drum is located, marked in pale gray on the formwork diagram. But here you need to level it until smooth.

Stage 8

We dry level G. This is also a responsible operation; you cannot rely on the microclimate of the room and conventional drying by natural evaporation to the outside; the oven will turn out bad and short-lived. It is necessary to create more or less stable conditions inside the drying mass.

This is done with a regular 40-60 W incandescent light bulb. It (turned on, of course) is inserted into the firebox so that the flask is under the riser pipe. You just need to provide some kind of mini trestle for the lamp socket so that the bulb does not touch the metal, otherwise the glass may burst. The top of level D will dry enough to withstand further operations while we make the secondary ash pan, see next.

Note: the light bulb will have to burn continuously for a total of approximately 30 days, taking into account further stages of drying. During this time, the 60-watt one will consume 24x30x0.06 = 43.2 kW/hour of electricity, and the 40-watt one will consume 28.8 kW/hour, which will cost 129 rubles respectively. 60 kopecks and 86 rub. 40 kopecks Whether such an expense is exorbitant is up to you to decide. However, on any side it is better to take 40-watt. Drying will take longer, but it will be of better quality and less sensitive to the quality of the raw materials.

Stage 9

We make a secondary ash pan, or just an ash pan for short, because... There is no primary in this furnace. Here it is similar in appearance to the same unit in the American prototypes of rocket stoves, but differs fundamentally from them.

In the Americans, an almost laminar flow of gases enters the ash pan through the wide outlet of the drum, but here it is twisted for deeper cleaning, see next. stage of the ash pit installation diagram. The cause of the vortices is the rotation of the Earth; more precisely, the Coriolis force caused by it, the same one that spins the water flowing from the bathtub.

Note: military-historical oddities. At the end of World War II, the Nazis developed the V-3, an ultra-long-range multi-chamber cannon with gradual acceleration of the projectile, to shell London. They made adits in the rock and assembled the entire system. And then it turned out that the Germans, famous for their thoroughness... forgot to take into account the rotation of the Earth! All the shells would have missed. So the V-3 never fired, causing only panic in Western intelligence agencies and a wave of myths that has reached this day. Later, Saddam Hussein floated around with the same idea. He was going to shoot from his desert at Berlin, Paris and the same London. His specialists have already calculated everything accurately and conducted successful experiments on small models. But, again, after everything it turned out that all modern technologies are not capable of creating precision-precision gun barrels 200-300 m long. In general, work loves a fool. Even if the fool is smart and knows a lot.

Drawings of the ash pit are shown in Fig. Dimension L is measured from point A (marked in red on the formwork diagram) along the perpendicular (red arrow there) to the edge of the bed. Dimension H is the sum of the heights of the formwork measured locally and the exit window already cut in the drum (70 mm if cut accurately). The bevel of the top of the ash pan back is arbitrary within reasonable limits, as long as it does not later stick out from under the coating of the drum with adobe.

The walled ash pan box is made of thin steel sheet or galvanized steel 0.6-1.2 mm. The front panel (face) is made of steel sheet 4-6 mm, because it can be exposed from the outside and has M5 threaded holes for attaching the cover. The cutout for the chimney bur is along the outer diameter of the existing metal flue; 150-180 mm is suitable for this stove. Its location is arbitrary, you just need to observe dimensions A, B and C on the drawing of the ash pit. All parts except the hog are connected by welding with a continuous seam in the same mode as for the drum cover skirt. For the addition of a hog, see below.

The cover of the cleaning hole measuring 180x180 mm is also made of steel with a thickness of 4-6 mm. The sealing gasket underneath is made of mineral cardboard. Mounting bolts – from M5x8 to M5x15 with hex heads. Bolts with any splines should not be used: the inside of the ash pan becomes overgrown with a thin layer of dense soot. The thickness of its layer will soon stabilize, but the bolts to remove the cover have to be unscrewed with a socket wrench with a crank.

Note: It is not advisable to use a hinged door with a latch - it will not provide a seal forever. You won’t notice it right away, but the stove’s appetite will increase and it will begin to become overgrown with smoke inside. And you have to open the ash pan for cleaning at most once a year if the stove is heated with room-dry wood.

Stage 10

We must assume that while we were fiddling with the ash pan, level G had already dried out. You can check by temporarily removing the formwork wall, as well as level B. If ready, install the drum and ash pan.

Replace the drum tube without the lid. We make sure that it and the riser pipe are concentric, and also that the outlet window is in the right place, see the inset at the top right in the general diagram of the furnace and the diagram in Fig..

We put a little mixture 5b inside the drum and use a spatula to form a wedge from it with an inclination of 5-7 degrees, converging to the outlet window. Now we put it in place under, and press it into the solution with a stick. We select the mortar from the cutout under the shell, otherwise you won’t be able to install the shell; the mortar is on crushed stone. Next, we install the shell, turning it slightly. We coat the gaps along the external and internal contours with 5d clay, as described earlier.

Stage 11

There is no need to wait for the insulation under the floor to dry; we immediately line the riser. We fill the shell layer by layer, 5-7 layers in total, with a 5g compound (home-dug sand or thin sandy loam). We compact each layer with a rolling pin with an even end and spray it with a spray bottle until a crust forms. Not reaching 5-6 cm to the top, we form a plug from 5d clay. When it dries, thin cracks form between it, the pipe and the shell, but that’s okay: when the furnace is fired, they will soon be overgrown with soot from the density and strength of the concrete.

Stage 12

Immediately after installing the drum, install the ash pan; We will close the cleaning hole with a lid later. Installing it is simple: on the lower and large side surfaces we apply a layer of 5d clay 2-3 mm thick. We insert the ash pan into place, press and press down. Then we coat the contour of the drum output window (also known as the input ash pan) on the outside with the same 5d clay. Smear the sausages squeezed inside into fillets with your finger. Don’t lose sight: the edge of the hearth protrudes into the ash pan as a narrow segmental shelf; a fillet must also be formed under it. In general, the transition from the drum to the ash pan must be sealed both inside and outside (green oval on the general diagram of the furnace).

Stage 13

If the level G of the insulation has not yet completely dried, we wait for it to dry. To speed it up, the formwork can already be removed. If yes, we also remove the formwork (drying continues, the light in the firebox is still shining!) and apply insulation with a 5B solution to level B. We apply it without formwork, by hand. Manually, without much precision, we form a semicircular arch at level B.

Stage 14

Without waiting for level B to dry, we make formwork along the contour of the bed, as when forming level A, but already to level D. Now we clarify its value according to measurement data: above the upper edge of the hole for the bur in the ash pan there should be at least 80 mm. It is also undesirable to do more than 120 mm; the heat transfer of the stove after heating will be sluggish. For brevity, we will call the new level G G1.

Stage 15

We fill the new formwork with adobe to the bottom edge of the hole for the bur in the ash pan, on one side. On the other - to the lower edge of the exit to the outer chimney. We level it roughly with our hands, but we need to make sure that there are no dips and, accordingly, U-shaped sections of the hog. If you read carefully at the beginning, you will understand that we will be able to lift the hog from the ash pit to the chimney by 10-30 mm. It is necessary for uniform heating of the bed, but downward sloping areas of the hog are undesirable in any case.

Stage 16

We stretch the prepared corrugation to its full length. We insert one end of it into the ash pan by 15-20 mm and flare it from the inside with a flat screwdriver through the cleaning door. We coat the outer contour of the hog's input into the ash pan with 5d clay, as already described.

Next, we cover the beginning of the hog, counting from the ash pan, by 15-25 cm with adobe; it will keep the corrugation from being pulled out during the following operations. Now we lay the hog in the bed with bends, but not coming closer than 100 mm to any edge. As you lay, lightly press down, pressing lightly into the adobe. Having laid it, we insert the far end of the corrugation into the exit hole into the chimney and, again, coat the contour with 5d clay.

Stage 17

We manually cover the hog with adobe so that there are no gaps or niches under the bottom of the corrugation. Then we fill the formwork with adobe and smooth its surface with a polish. If the adobe is thick, heavy, and made from oily clay, you can immediately form roundings on the upper corners, see the inset at the bottom right of the main diagram. It is convenient to do this with a strip of galvanized steel, bent to a quarter of a circle with a trough. If the adobe is light, you will have to dust it with a milling cutter or circle around the stone during final finishing.

Stage 18

We constantly put the ash pan and drum lids in place. The light in the firebox is still on, drying out! We attach the drum cover with screws with conical heads: when tightened tightly, they will tightly compress the gasket between the cover and the tube.

Stage 19

We form the adobe coating of the drum, as already said: 1/3 of its top remains free, and counting down from half its height, the adobe layer should be no thinner than 100 mm. As for the rest, as God pleases, here the rocket stove will tolerate any design.

Stage 20

After drying is complete (about 2 weeks), remove the formwork and round off the remaining corners, if necessary. The last operations before kindling are to paint the drum with heat-resistant enamel at 450 degrees (750 degrees is much more expensive), and cover the stove bench with acrylic varnish in 2 layers; 2nd after complete drying of the 1st.

The varnish will not prevent the stove from breathing; the breath will flow through the bed covering. But, firstly, the varnish will prevent the adobe from collecting dust. Secondly, it will protect it from accidental moisture. Thirdly, it will give the stove the noble appearance of glazed clay.

Final stage: rocket launch

In a dry oven, we put the ash valve in the grooves without closing it (the light bulb is no longer there, of course), close the hopper lid and heat it with paper, straw, shavings, etc., all the time feeding fuel through the ash vent. When the bed feels at least a little warmer to the touch, add more light fuel and load the standard fuel into the bunker. Having waited until the stove hums quite loudly, we close the vent “to a whisper.” That's it, the rocket stove with a stove bench is ready! Now - off to the start! That is, in bed.

Finally

There is a direction in balloon-stove creativity that is still being developed only by smokers, and then somehow: the construction of stoves from 2 or more cylinders. And from the point of view of heating engineering, its prospects are quite serious.

Old non-autonomous diving equipment was divided into 2 classes based on the number of helmet attachment points: three-bolt with a soft suit for working at depths of up to 60 m and heavy, hard 12-bolt deep-sea. The profession of a shallow-water diver had a completely official name - three-bolt diver. In this regard, I wonder what hidden meaning the trolls and goblins of the Runet would see in the name, well, let’s say: “Society of Multi-Cylinder Stove Makers”?

When considering possible options for available materials for homemade stove designs, experts came to the conclusion that the most optimal is a used gas cylinder.

The use of practically waste material will significantly reduce the cost of the furnace, and the finished form will facilitate the work.

Cylinder stoves: features of material selection and its capabilities

The operation of any heating device depends on the design of the firebox. Practical data show that a spherical shape is preferable. This requirement is ideally met by the configuration of the internal space of the gas cylinder. Any furnace must have space to supply oxygen necessary to maintain combustion, and holes to remove combustion products. The oblong cylindrical shape of the cylinder in this case is optimal for constructing a heating device at minimal cost.

Thus, the shape of the cylinder and the characteristics of the material from which it is made make it possible to create designs for a variety of furnaces, including complex models. Depending on the purpose, homemade gas cylinder stoves can be used for:

• heating and cooking in the house;
• heating premises not intended for habitation;
• cooking in country conditions at;
• universal purpose;
• emergency heating.

Which cylinder should I look for?

Making a stove from a gas cylinder requires a selective approach, since not each of them is suitable for its properties. If the container is made of composite materials, then its use is dangerous due to the risk of explosion, and their heat resistance is not sufficient. The design of the workpiece must be all-metal and have a certain volume. A flask with a capacity of 5 liters cannot become an effective heating device; a volume of at least 12 or 27 liters is required.

To create a unit capable of efficiently heating a small house, you will need a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters. The geometric dimensions and shape of such tanks make it possible to create heating systems with a minimum amount of waste during fuel combustion. All furnace designs described below are based on just such cylinders. Some of them may be equipped with a valve, others are equipped with a valve. It is preferable to use cylinders with a valve, since it can be used to regulate the air supply to the firebox.

Gas cylinders suitable for making a stove

In industry, cylinders with a volume of 40 liters are used. They have a considerable length with a relatively small diameter, and also have a large mass. These characteristics are far from those required for the manufacture of stoves.

Types of cylinder stoves

Wood-burning stove made from a gas cylinder

By design it is the simplest heating device. It consists of the following main parts: a firebox, inside of which there is a grate, a blower and a chimney.

Potbelly stove

Such a structure can be placed in any place where it is necessary. In this case, a prerequisite is the exhaust of the chimney to the outside. Potbelly stoves are characterized by their fairly compact size and safe operation, as well as the ability to warm up a room in a short time. It is possible to add a hob for cooking to the design.

The main disadvantage of such devices is that the metal burns out, regardless of its thickness, which is associated with the intensity of the combustion process. With regular use of this heat generator, the durability of the potbelly stove is significantly reduced. In connection with this circumstance, it is advisable to use such devices as an alternative or emergency heat source.

Furnace in production

The principle of operation of this gas cylinder stove is to burn in the furnace space under conditions of dosed air supply using a throttle. Thermal energy is spent on the decomposition of fuel, the vapors of which move into the reactor. It has perforations on the walls, which are necessary for the free flow of air from outside. This becomes possible due to the pressure difference.

The supply of oxygen with atmospheric air intensifies the combustion of oil in vapor form and leads to the occurrence of pyrolysis. With the beginning of this process, substances obtained during this process are connected to combustion. As a result, the temperature of the middle part of the furnace is 1300 degrees Celsius, at which nitrogen oxides are formed. The presence of such compounds slightly lowers the temperature, but helps prevent the possibility of an explosion.

Waste oil furnace

The combustion products, which have partially given up their energy, are not discharged into the chimney, but are sent to a chamber where they are re-burned. The design of the afterburner provides for the division of its space using an incomplete partition. In the space in front of the partition, fuel decomposition products burn out at a temperature that does not allow nitrogen oxides to stabilize; behind it, there is a deficiency of oxygen at a fairly high temperature (about 700 degrees Celsius). The presence of such conditions leads to the decomposition of nitrogen oxides with the release of energy, which is spent on the afterburning of combustion products. The energy balance of such processes makes it possible to maintain a stable temperature in the afterburner.

As a result of the pyrolysis process, the exhaust gases have a significant temperature, which is at the level of 400 degrees Celsius. Therefore, for safety reasons, it is necessary to place the chimney at some distance from the partitions.

In most cases, the material for the exhaust furnace is fifty-liter gas cylinders. To make a heating device, the cylinder is cut in a 2:1 ratio. In this case, the part with smaller dimensions serves to create a reservoir, and the part with larger dimensions is the afterburning chamber.

Long burning stoves

The process of wood combustion in such heating units is long-term, which is accompanied by the phenomenon of pyrolysis. This operating principle of the unit allows for increased heat transfer and increased efficiency. The fuel in them does not burn in the form of a flame, but smolders on the surface.

Long-burning stoves can be equipped with:

• separate combustion. For pyrolysis to occur, a limited volume and an afterburning chamber are required;
• combined combustion. Combustion products are sent to a heated buffer chamber to complete pyrolysis.

Bubafonya stove

Bubafonya refers to long-burning stoves in which separate combustion occurs. The place where the pyrolysis process takes place is located under pressure. As the energy carrier burns, the pressure gradually moves downward, thereby increasing the volume of the air duct. The design of such a gas cylinder stove design and the requirements for its operation have some features:

• Efficiency reaches 85%;
• The combustion of one batch of fuel can last up to a day;
• Fuel moisture content should be within 12%;
• It is possible to reload the energy carrier during the combustion process;
• Maintenance and repair of the device while the furnace is running is impossible;

This stove is economical and is quite suitable for heating commercial premises. In addition, power control can be carried out over a wide range using the throttle in manual mode.

Scheme of the furnace operation

Slobozhanka stove

Slobozhanka refers to heating devices in which the combustion process occurs simultaneously. The design of the stove is much simpler than Bubafonya, and the thermal characteristics are not inferior to it.

However, you should not bake Slobozhanka from a gas cylinder. This is due to the fact that to achieve sufficient efficiency, the minimum diameter of the device is required to be at least 500 mm. In addition to this limitation, there are a number of disadvantages:

• During operation of the device, toxic gases are formed, so it is not allowed to open its cover while moving.
• There is no possibility of stopping the furnace operation. Attempts to do this may result in the release of a toxic gas mixture into the room.
• As a result of using the stove, a dense deposit forms, which hardens over time, which significantly complicates the maintenance of the heating device.

Rocket stove

The most advanced design of a heating apparatus with a vertical arrangement is the rocket stove. In fact, it is an improvement on the classic potbelly stove and has the following differences:

• Efficiency has been increased by creating a complex trajectory of movement of heated air and combustion products. Moreover, the path of their movement became significantly longer, which made it possible to increase the heated area.
• Additional details have been added to the design. A square pipe is mounted inside the cylinder, which has an outlet at the bottom in the form of a metal container.
• The chimney is supplied from below, and not from the top of the device.

As a result of these improvements, the rocket stove, created from a gas cylinder, acquired a number of advantages:

• The operation of the furnace differs not only in the duration of combustion, but also in its continuity. That is, it is possible to reload fuel during its operation;
• it is possible to stop the stove and ignite at the right time;
• long breaks in work do not affect performance;
• a significant area of ​​support for the structure eliminates the issue of building a foundation.

Rocket stove

The disadvantages include the presence of a peculiar sound during the operation of the furnace, as well as the inability to regulate its progress.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder: manufacturing instructions

The simplest do-it-yourself stove design from a gas cylinder is a potbelly stove. If you follow the recommendations below, making this heating device will not be difficult.

Preparing the balloon

For safety reasons, the gas must first be removed from the container. To do this, open the valve and release the remaining gas. After this, the container must be turned over, which will allow condensation to be removed.
Having made sure that the work is not threatened by gas residues, you can begin to cut out the upper part of the gas tank. Then they proceed to the installation of the grate. To make it, you can use reinforcement or large-diameter wire. The rod is bent so that it takes the shape of a snake. The grate bars are welded to it.

Front end

It is necessary to cut a circle from a sheet of metal, the size of which should correspond to the diameter of the gas cylinder. There are two holes on it. One of them is necessary for loading fuel, and the second is required for organizing the air supply.

Oven door

Hinges are installed on the lid for hanging the door, which it is advisable to purchase in a factory version. It is recommended to cover the perimeter with asbestos-cement cord.

Rear end

To install a chimney in the back of the cylinder, it is necessary to cut a hole whose diameter is equal to the size of the chimney. After this, it should be welded to the furnace body.

To make a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder, you don’t need to spend a lot of money An economical stove made from a propane tank won't cost too much. The main thing is to make the right drawings. And the materials for work will be available materials. So an old cylinder, metal sheets, fittings and pipes are the whole set of necessary products.

• • Efficiency of using a stove from a gas cylinder in a garage
  • The principle of operation of a potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder using wood
  • Types of wood-burning gas cylinder stoves
  • Do-it-yourself stove from a gas cylinder: preparatory work
  • Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a gas cylinder: installation technology
  • Chimney equipment for a gas cylinder boiler
  • How to make a stove from a gas cylinder (video)
  • Examples of a potbelly stove made from gas cylinders (photo)

A potbelly stove made from a gas boiler allows you to burn heat more slowly, processing all the fuel. In this case, you can control the air supply and the combustion process using a special damper. This increases the efficiency and combustion duration. That is why homemade stoves are used in garages, greenhouses, bathhouses, and workshops.

Using a gas cylinder stove you can easily heat a small garage

Advantages of the oven:

1. Easy assembly. Construction can be completed quickly and easily.
2. Independent fuel. The boiler does not require electricity, only solid fuel. In this case, the type of solid fuel does not matter.
3. Small dimensions allow the structure to be placed in any corner of the house.
4. Easy to use. The mechanism is simple, wood burns for a long time and does not require constant monitoring.

But for the stove to work, good ventilation will be required, otherwise the necessary draft will not arise. The heat capacity of the structure is also not encouraging. This is due to the small area of ​​the boiler.

You can increase the heat capacity by equipping a jacket.

Only dry logs should be used for the stove. The disadvantages include the difficulty of cleaning the structure from soot and ash. But the disadvantages are less than the advantages. At the same time, the equipment of the furnace will not be expensive.

The principle of operation of a potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder using wood

The gas cylinder design is a long-burning system. It consists of three main elements: a firebox, a chimney and a blower. The latter is a special channel, which is located at the bottom of the stove. The blower supplies air to the firebox, controlling combustion. This part is equipped with a door to control the oxygen supply. In addition, soot accumulates in the ash pit.

There is a firebox above the ash pit. This element is used to burn fuel. Air enters the chamber through a grille, which is connected to the blower. The firebox is equipped with a door. This is how firewood is loaded into a potbelly stove.

The furnace is ignited with the firebox doors open and the ash pan closed. Unburned parts fall through the grate or fly out through the chimney.

The chimney is an exhaust pipe through which the remaining combustion products exit. A special view is installed in the chimney - a damper. It is used to block the chimney. Thanks to it, you can slow down the combustion process and increase efficiency.

The main principles of operation of a potbelly stove:

1. The blower transports air into the firebox;
2. Firewood or coal is burned in the loading chamber;
3. Combustion products are eliminated through the chimney;
4. You can control the intensity of combustion using a damper;
5. Firewood is placed into the firebox through a special door in the body of the stove.

You can cut the necessary holes in the gas cylinder using a grinder

The blower and firebox are considered the main elements and are mounted directly in the body of the gas cylinder. The chimney can be placed separately. The principle of operation is quite simple, all that remains is to figure out how to correctly design a potbelly stove.

Types of wood-burning gas cylinder stoves

Potbelly stoves are divided according to the installation method into vertical and horizontal. Each type has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. It is important to study each option in detail.

Nuances of installing a horizontal furnace:

1. The construction of such a potbelly stove requires less time;
2. The stove is installed on a metal sheet to avoid fire hazards.

The vertical design is compact. It can be placed in a corner and will not take up much space. The cylinder is installed with the tap down, so the design has its own differences. The door of a vertical potbelly stove is located at the bottom. Less steel will be required for the substrate equipment.

Do-it-yourself stove from a gas cylinder: preparatory work

To create a wood-burning stove from a metal cylinder, you will need to use welding. That is why you should choose a room for work in advance. This should be a well-ventilated room with reliable wiring and constant access to electricity.

You should immediately prepare all the tools for work. You will need a welding machine and a grinder.

The gas cylinder stove should be installed in such a way that it does not come into contact with the lining of the room

The process of making a potbelly stove can last several days. It will be better if the room has a roof. Good sound insulation is welcome, because during work it can be noisy, and this will not please the neighbors.

Materials for creating a potbelly stove:

1. Frame. Can be made from an old propane boiler. It is best to choose a large 50 liter cylinder.
2. In some cases, the stove may be equipped with legs. For this purpose, sections of pipe, fittings, and metal profiles are suitable.
3. Using scraps of rebar you can make potbelly stove handles. A similar handle will be located on the firebox lid.
4. You can make the door yourself or buy a ready-made one from cast material. The stove will require 2 doors: for the firebox and for the vent. The first one should be bigger.

Separately, it is worth taking time to prepare the cylinder. First, you will need to bleed the propane from the tank. The operation is performed outdoors. Open the supply tap and wait until the hissing stops.

Next you will need to rinse the bottle. The main thing is to get rid of the unpleasant odor, which is used by the supplier to detect a leak. Bleach is used for washing, and then the structure is washed with water.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a gas cylinder: installation technology

First, prepare the container for the oven. You should take a 50 liter cylinder. After this, you will need to decide on the design of the potbelly stove: vertical and horizontal.

How to make a horizontal oven:

1. First, the top part with the tap is cut off from the cylinder.
2. 4 legs are welded onto the container. The housing must be placed horizontally.
3. A chimney opening is equipped in the upper part of the cylinder. A bent collar made of steel braid measuring 5 cm is welded onto the round hole.
4. A grating is installed in the internal space at a distance of a fourth of its diameter. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall of the cylinder.
5. Next, a hole is made for the door and a nut with a ball valve is welded.

The finished stove is mounted in a garage or other room on a special steel sheet. There should be enough material to occupy a space 50 cm more from the door. The vertical design has its own characteristics, but the preparatory work is the same.

Before installing a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder, you should watch the training video

The hole for the valve in vertical ovens is made 10 cm larger. Next, a collar is installed on the chimney. The blower is installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the bottom. A firebox is installed above. Grates are installed between the loading hopper and the blower. Finally, install the handles on the doors.

Chimney equipment for a gas cylinder boiler

To operate the stove you will need to have good draft. To do this, the chimney is mounted at a certain height. This place is located above the edge of the grate. You will also need to equip a place to collect moisture. You will also need to remove heat from the chimney.

Heat removal methods:

1. Install the horizontal section, maintaining a slope of 35 degrees. Next, the chimney will need to be turned up and brought out into the street. A heat exchanger is installed on the channel.
2. Warm air can be carried by a pipe that exits the oven at an angle. This increases the efficiency indicator and combustion duration.

By equipping a water jacket on the stove, you can significantly increase the useful properties of the structure. All features and nuances of installation can be seen in special drawings. In this case, the heat exchanger can be equipped on the housing.

Water circulation in the jacket occurs in a forced manner using a pump.

In this case, the diameter of the heat exchanger must be larger than the diameter of the chimney. The open ends of the pipes will have to be welded. When water passes through the shirt, it heats up and transfers heat to the room.

How to make a stove from a gas cylinder (video)

A stove made from an oxygen or gas cylinder is a fairly simple design. You can assemble such a potbelly stove on your own. The main thing is to stock up on a welding machine and a grinder. The installation should be carried out based on calculations and drawings.

Examples of a potbelly stove made from gas cylinders (photo)