Due to the variety of layouts and operational conditions of country real estate, in each case, individual ventilation in a private house is designed with your own hands. The scheme must ensure the minimum permissible air exchange rate. In a kitchen with a four-burner stove, used air must be replaced with new air at an intensity of 90 cubic meters every hour. In living rooms, 30 cubic meters per person is enough, or air exchange three times per hour of the entire volume. Read more in this material.
Country cottage ventilation diagram
To reduce the operating budget, natural ventilation is usually used in a private house with your own hands, the diagram of which is presented below. The principle of air exchange in it is as follows:
- street air enters the premises through the cracks of window blocks;
- heats up and moves naturally under the doors to the bathroom and kitchen;
- in functional rooms (kitchen + bathroom), ventilation ducts are installed inside the main walls, through which waste air masses are removed due to natural draft.
Such a do-it-yourself ventilation scheme in a private house has significant drawbacks:
- modern window units (double-glazed windows inside a PVC profile) are absolutely sealed;
- To improve the sound insulation of rooms, undercutting of door panels is not used, which disrupts the exchange inside the premises.
Therefore, supply valves are used, embedded in window blocks, or ventilation of rooms with open transoms and vents. Sometimes it is advisable to install supply fans or heat exchangers into external walls.
If standard ventilation ducts do not provide sufficient draft, do-it-yourself exhaust ventilation is used in a private house, the diagram of which is also available below. The main disadvantage of forced ventilation systems is their energy dependence.
Helpful information! Axial and centrifugal fans installed inside ventilation ducts and permanent external walls are electrically driven. Power outages can only be compensated for by expensive generators, batteries or UPS (uninterruptible power supply) sources.
General information about organizing ventilation in the house (video)
Related article:
In a separate publication we will talk about the principles of organizing high-quality ventilation in an apartment and the correct selection of equipment.
System composition, step-by-step installation
It will help when designing ventilation in a private house with your own hands, a diagram and preparation of a set of drawings with floor plans. The main element of any ventilation system is the air duct:
- ventilation duct - made only inside brick walls;
- box - made of steel sheet, polymer materials, ceramics, concrete products.
Exhaust air ducts have the maximum cross-section. For example, for a single air exchange in a cottage of 300 square meters with natural air exchange, you will need a pipe with a diameter of 35 cm or a channel 40 x 25 cm. Such structures can be made without problems inside brickwork.
If the house is built from other structural materials, problems automatically arise with the placement and decoration of pipes or boxes of such large sizes. Therefore, the cross-section of the air duct is reduced, forced ventilation is designed in a private house (the diagram can also be done with your own hands without problems when studying the basic requirements of regulatory documentation).
How to organize ventilation?
To renew air masses in a private house, supply ventilation is first used. It’s not difficult to draw up a diagram with your own hands, once you understand the layout and features of your home. There are several types of ventilation that are not equally beneficial for the microclimate of interiors:
- the door + windows are open – the air is renewed within 5 minutes, but harmful drafts are formed;
- a transom or window is slightly open - complete replacement of exhaust air masses with new ones occurs in 40-60 minutes, but the slopes and window blocks cool down, and condensation may form;
- windows are open - this option is the best, since in 10 minutes the structures do not have time to cool down, the air in the room is completely renewed.
But it is extremely inconvenient for residents to ventilate every hour. Therefore, a saving solution if you do not want to install a full-fledged air supply system are wall/window valves.
Ensuring inflow
Window valves come in several varieties. To install some models, it is necessary to mill an oval slot in the PVC profile in use. This is reflected in the strength of the window block (the profile is reinforced with foil, inside of which it is not recommended to make large holes), and sound insulation.
Slot valves of the overhead type are more convenient to install. To do this, it is enough to remove the seal in a separate area (usually the upper part of the transom) and screw on the valve body.
In high-performance modifications of supply-type valves, the external air intake is connected to the internal adjustment mechanism by a telescopic chamber. The valve element, installed indoors, has a filter, outlet nozzles, and a labyrinthine duct system.
Helpful information! All supply-type window valves are non-volatile. They will not work in buildings with leaky door and window units, or in the absence of 2 cm gaps under the interior door leaves.
The capacity of window valves is usually sufficient for residential premises. However, in kitchens with 4-burner gas stoves and ovens, these devices cannot provide the required air exchange for these rooms. Therefore, wall valves are installed with the following design:
Related article:
Such a device can sometimes be a real salvation from stuffiness and poor microclimate. Let's take a better look at the nuances of its selection and installation.
Conventional valves are mounted above the registers so that the winter air is warmed by rising convection currents. The recuperators use a “pipe in pipe” scheme, so the incoming masses are warmed by the outgoing flows. They are installed in any convenient place, regardless of the location of the batteries or walls.
More complex are ventilation systems using. Boxes or pipes are passed inside the spaces of suspended/stretch ceilings, releasing pipes in separate areas of the room.
Helpful advice! When organizing forced inflow by fans, the built-in ventilation ducts of a natural ventilation system are guaranteed to be unable to cope with the removal of large volumes of exhaust “dirty” air. Therefore, it will be necessary to install exhaust fans inside them.
If supply ventilation in a private house is built with your own hands, the diagram is no less important than calculating the cross-section of the air ducts. The main recommendations for the home handyman are:
- hoods are installed in the “dirtiest” rooms (high humidity, odors, thermal radiation);
- air flow must be organized from the furthest room in relation to the kitchen and bathroom;
- For this purpose, grilles or slots in the door panels or under them are used.
Do-it-yourself forced supply ventilation in a private house, the diagram and composition of which is given below, consists of complex elements:
- Comfort of living when the electrical equipment is turned on is ensured by a noise suppressor (muffler);
- circulation is created by a fan;
- the intake air is heated by a heater;
- filters purify the street air;
- valves regulate the flow;
- the distribution of masses within the system is carried out by diffusers and grilles.
Recuperators are responsible for energy saving and reduction of heat loss, but are effective up to certain outdoor temperatures. Therefore, in cold weather, air heaters are additionally turned on. In summer, recuperators operate in air conditioning mode by default, reducing the load on the cottage's climate control equipment.
Related article:
What is this device? How does it work? What are its advantages? Is it difficult to install it yourself? We will answer these and other questions in a special publication. Read!
With a large working area of a country home, air exchange can reach 600-800 cubic meters every hour. Powerful, large equipment requires space for placement and maintenance. Therefore, either special rooms inside the house, underground, or an unused attic are used.
Helpful information! The minimum flow resistance is observed in tubular air ducts. But rectangular ventilation ducts are easier to attach to supporting structures and camouflage under false panels and ceilings. Flexible corrugated pipes are used in short sections where several complex bends are required.
Thus, a home craftsman can design and install natural and forced ventilation systems in a country home on his own without the involvement of specialists. This will provide a comfortable microclimate and reduce illness among family members, but will require knowledge of regulatory documentation and construction skills.
How to properly ventilate your home (video)
From time immemorial, houses were built without ventilation. It was important to wall up all the cracks through which drafts, dampness, rodents and insects could seep in. In our twenty-first century, we have succeeded so much in this that the situation has changed radically. Impenetrable walls and modern ones do not leave the cold a single chance. But at the same time, the quality of the air is lost - it becomes damper, or vice versa - dry, or there is simply not enough of it. Ventilation helps only for a short time. One way or another, owners of country real estate, accustomed to solving problems on their own, have a question: how to make a hood in a private house with your own hands.
Technical standards
According to the current legislation, everything is divided into two types - these are garden buildings and the so-called individual housing construction projects (abbreviated as IHC). The first are intended for seasonal residence, the second - for permanent residence. In the first case, there are very few rules and they mainly concern the location of buildings and changes in their status, leaving many technical aspects unattended. In the second, standards for residential premises apply.
For garden houses
In this case, the law does not oblige the establishment of any communications. However, such a need arises when condensation appears on the walls and becomes... Another indicator is the smell of dampness and decaying organic materials from which the structure is built. Wooden buildings are least susceptible to such misfortunes. When constructing block or, you should seriously think about how they will be ventilated.
In hot summer weather, the windows are usually open, but in cold weather, the heat from the stove can cause a headache, and the inevitable burst of ventilation will lead to the need to urgently add more firewood. The problem makes itself felt when the temperature drops below zero. If the building is sufficiently insulated so that it can be lived in in winter, all technical recommendations for construction suitable for a residential building are suitable for it.
For individual housing construction
A number of restrictions are introduced by the Government of the Russian Federation Decree No. 47 “On approval of the Regulations on recognizing premises as residential” and sanitary rules SP 60.13330.2012:
- It is not allowed to install ventilation ducts at a distance of less than 10 cm from the electrical wiring and;
- It is strictly forbidden to combine air ducts of kitchens and bathrooms, as well as other non-residential areas with residential ones. The latter include bedrooms, children's rooms and living rooms;
- It is impossible to design systems in which outflow from one apartment to another is possible if there are two or more apartments in the building.
It also says that each square meter must comply with current sanitary standards for multiplicity. This term refers to the ratio of the volume of air masses to the space they pass through per unit time. According to this parameter, the sanitary rules SP 55.13330.2016 establish the minimum operating productivity. In the bedroom and living room, oxygen must be completely renewed every hour, in the kitchen an hourly influx of 60 m3 is required, in the bathroom and non-residential rooms - from 25 m3 per hour. When the fans are turned off or in the absence of people, a multiplicity of 20% of the room volume per hour is allowed.
How to properly make a hood in a private house
There are two types of ventilation systems:
- natural - circulation occurs due to the pressure difference at the bottom of the air duct and at the top;
- forced - the flow is driven by rotating blades.
For garden buildings
The first option is ineffective and is used for small buildings intended for living in the warm season. In this case, the inflow is carried out thanks to wall or window valves, as well as flow grilles installed on the doors. The traditional solution is with a chimney. If it is not there, you can run a pipe from the ceiling to the roof, placing it at the maximum distance from windows and doors so as not to release fresh oxygen outside. It is better to make a canopy for it on the roof to prevent it from raining, and close it with a valve in the room in case the cold weather comes. The diameter can be taken up to 20 cm, but 5 cm will be enough.
The height should be at least 3 m - otherwise there will be no traction. According to SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10, the pipe should not protrude more than 1 m above the roof.
Instead of a pipe - plastic or metal - you can use a hose made of polyester or aluminum foil. It is not necessary to remove the upper part through. To ensure a pressure difference, it will be enough to make an exit under the roof slope, covering it with a mesh. The ventilation duct is embedded in the wall during its construction, or mounted next to it.
In order not to spoil the waterproofing of walls and ceilings, it is better to use special couplings that protect it from moisture penetration. They are easy to find in the store or make yourself.
It is better to place the shaft vertically. The more horizontal sections and bends, the lower the efficiency.
A rectangular elongated channel can be laid inside, but such a cross-section does not provide effective operation, unlike a round one. In addition, walls suitable for internal laying must have significant thickness.
For residential buildings
The most convenient way would be to install forced ventilation. It is suitable for all rooms and allows you to perfectly cope with the task. To get acquainted with its structure in detail, let's consider how it is used in large rooms with a heating system and a large number of rooms.
In a spacious living room there is no particular need to install a forced ventilation system. Its shortage becomes noticeable with an area of less than 10 m2 per person. The diameter of the channel does not play a significant role when it is turned on, but when it is turned off, the flow begins to circulate naturally, and here the throughput of the hose or pipe becomes important. To understand what the diameter of the channel should be, first ask to calculate the total consumption using the formula L=S x H x N, where
- S is the area of the room;
- H - ceiling height;
- N - multiplicity.
Let's take as an example a bedroom of 18 m2. let it be equal to 3 m. As we already know, the air mass in living rooms is updated once an hour. Substituting the values into the formula, we get a volume of 54 m 3 /hour.
Now let's move on to calculating the channel area using the formula F=L/3600 x v, where V is the flow velocity. When the equipment is turned off, it is from 0.5 to 1.5 m/sec. Let's take its average value equal to 1 m/sec.
For, as for all living rooms, one channel is enough. So, the required value will be 0.015 m2. Now it will be easy to find out the diameter. We all learned this formula in school:
S=π⋅r2. The radius squared will be 0.015/3.14=0.004777, and the diameter will be 0.14 m.
Now all that remains is to select a suitable standard pipe. We are quite satisfied with a cross section of 0.15 m.
The above calculation must be carried out for each of the premises separately, taking into account their features, which we discussed above. An option is possible in which two have exits into one shaft. In this case, you will need to calculate the total air duct by adding their parameters.
According to sanitary and technical requirements, the inner walls of the channels must be smooth. The ventilation riser must be equipped with an opening hatch, allowing inspection and cleaning. When installing ventilation grilles not in the ceiling, but in the upper part of the wall, they should be positioned as high as possible to avoid “dead” zones at the very top. There should be no more than 15 cm to the ceiling.
If the building did not have a ventilation shaft, it does not have to be completely reconstructed to find its optimal position. The best solution would be to attach it to the side and insulate it well. The warm flow will rise much faster than the cold one.
In a private house, it is done in two ventilation ducts at once - one common, the other in the slab area. They should not be combined, since the flow from the second has significant pressure. It will seep into the kitchen from the common area.
The hood for an electric stove is placed at a height of 70 cm above the work surface, for a gas stove - at a height of 80 cm, depending on the power and size, taking into account the volume of the room. Power is calculated using the formula P = S x H x 12, where
- S - room area
- H is its height.
Usually the air duct is directed not upward, but to the side, which is why the power drops by 25%. These percentages must be taken into account when choosing equipment power.
It is better to install the outlet valve in the wall. It would be easier to install a window plug for it with a hole for exhaust gases to escape, but this solution will worsen the insolation and appearance of the facade. A hole can be made in masonry, concrete or wood using a diamond bit. Often, rectangular rather than round channels are used, which saves some space, but in this case the efficiency is reduced.
It is advisable to choose boxes made of metal, since they are easier to clean from grease and are less susceptible to deformation when exposed to high temperatures. The best option is steel. If corrugated aluminum is used, the pipe must be straightened as much as possible.
In a private house, a hood in the wall does not require approval, unless it is a historical object and is not under state protection.
Selecting forced ventilation
The simplest solution is to install a supply fan. It must be installed in a separate channel so that the flow under pressure does not escape into other rooms during its operation, but is discharged directly to the roof. For optimal operation, you will need inlet valves on doors, windows or walls - after all, to ensure outflow, you need inflow.
If the flow needs to be heated, you should give preference to an installation with a built-in heater or a recuperator. This device consists of thin metal plates that transmit temperature well. Warm air at the outlet enters every second gap between the plates, and fresh air moves towards it through the remaining channels, receiving heat from the walls.
In the attic you can place a central hood into which all the air ducts converge. They operate quite quietly, but it is advisable to place them away from the bedroom.
The attic space allows you to place more complex fixtures. Recently, energy-saving systems with rotary heat exchangers have become widespread. Such devices easily fit even under a flat roof - their height varies from 25 to 45 cm.
- Material prepared by: Artem Filimonov
A ventilation duct in a private house is the only way to get fresh air in a living space. The air flow must be constant so that each family member can remain healthy. Creating ventilation is not difficult, but choosing one of the options is not easy. The house diagram will help in this matter, because the future hood will depend on the structure itself. And it will provide the residents of the house with protection from mold, fungi, and dampness.
Types of ventilation in a private house
Installing ventilation in a private house will become an integral part of the building. Construction experts say that this particular work requires a lot of effort. In a private house you can create two options for exhaust systems:
- exhaust ventilation;
- supply and exhaust.
Exhaust ventilation will allow the air inside the room to freely flow out through forced intervention, and fresh air will flow through the ducts naturally.
The supply and exhaust circuit implies a forced discharge and influx of fresh air into the house. This scheme is much more difficult to implement, the prices for the elements are more expensive, and therefore it is rarely used in the construction of small private houses.
In turn, each of the proposed ventilation systems can be divided into centralized exhaust and decentralized. In the first case, a special ventilation unit is used. With its help, air circulates in the room. The second option involves the placement of several units throughout the system. Each of them works independently of the others and is installed in every room of the house.
Natural ventilation and its disadvantages
A private house may have a system such as natural ventilation. It is not always possible to create it with your own hands in a complete form. This issue arose acutely when most people began to use plastic windows and insulation for walls. The situation gave rise to numerous problems– increased dampness, the formation of fungus and mold in the house. Such problems did not arise when old windows were used, because they let fresh air through the cracks. The draft created the necessary conditions to reduce dampness in the corners of a private house.
This ventilation system uses the operating principle of vertical channels. They are installed indoors at one end, and the other is brought out just above the roof of the house. Since the air in the room is warmer than that around the room, it is pushed into the exhaust duct and contributes to the intake of a new portion of air from the outside space. This ventilation system involves many factors that are beyond human control - ambient temperature, wind, and you can make the channel cross-section with your own hands to the desired diameter.
If you turn to construction specialists, they claim that such a ventilation system for a private house will only work if the temperature of the external space is equal to no higher than 12 degrees on the Celsius scale. If it gets hotter, the hood starts to work much worse.
This situation may seem ideal for the winter season, but there is a special drawback that cannot be ignored. Since the temperature difference in the house and outside is quite noticeable, the ventilation system begins to work faster. The heat that has accumulated in the house during the day literally flies down the drain. Therefore, residents of private houses spend more resources on heating their premises than required under normal conditions.
The ventilation scheme for a private house involves the creation of such channels in the bathrooms. Often such hoods can be seen in the kitchen, basement and a number of other rooms where it is necessary to carry out a large outflow of air from the room. Particular attention should be paid to rooms that are located in a private house below ground level. Radon gas often forms in them. To reduce its quantity, it is recommended to build powerful ventilation duct.
The same experts say that sometimes these measures are not enough. In this case, the rationality of the system is completely lost. This is what people use, who can open the window at any time, create a strong air flow in the rooms and quickly ventilate the house. Only one nuance is lost - such a ventilation system is unacceptable, as it puts all residents of the room at risk of disease.
As a result, there are significant drawbacks - ventilation in a private house of this type implies uncontrolled air flows, and also does not allow regulating the outflow and inflow.
Options for improving natural ventilation
You can always improve the effect of natural ventilation in a private home, even with your own hands. For this purpose it is necessary use a special valve. It is customary to install it at the entrance to the channel located indoors. This device is equipped with automation that responds to humidity. If an increase in the indicator is observed in the room, the automatic relay is activated and the valve opens the channel more. Otherwise, it closes. The sensitive element is a sensor that is mounted outside the house and receives an ambient temperature signal.
When the cold season comes, the valve must be closed with your own hands. This nuance will reduce the entry of cold air into the house through the ventilation duct. Unfortunately, even this control option is not able to hide all the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system.
Forced ventilation It can also be installed in a private home using another valid method. This option will be much cheaper than the previous one, but it will require more effort to maintain it. This involves installing special grilles with valves on the air inflow and outflow channels. Moreover, the latter are controlled exclusively manually. Adjustment is carried out when the ambient temperature changes. It is recommended to change the position of the ventilation valve at least once a season.
The latest option for improving the natural ventilation system is to install special fans on the ducts. A similar type of exhaust hood system can be seen in the kitchen. The only downside is what happens destabilization of the entire ventilation system. In other words, air may start coming from a duct in a pantry or back room.
Forced ventilation in a private house
This ventilation option can only be considered if a sufficient amount of fresh air enters the private house. The disadvantage of the hood is the difficulty of dismantling it, which may be needed for a variety of reasons.
A secondary problem is the reduction in channel performance. At this moment, a decrease in circulation is observed. The room is left without the required amount of fresh air. It is recommended to install such ventilation in the basement or basement, where the risk of dampness is much higher than in other parts of a private residential building. Experience shows that there are no problems with installation and adjustment of proper air outflow and inflow. This procedure can be done with your own hands in a short period of time.
Do not forget that the hood diagram may also imply presence of fans. These devices are able to regulate the flow of fresh air. Any owner can install them with his own hands.
Supply ventilation in the house
One of the problems of a private home is the lack of fresh air. Therefore, its supply should be forced. You can achieve the desired result using a special device called supply valve. In addition to the main function, it is able to provide:
- minimizing noise from the outside world that enters a private home;
- air filtration;
- thermal insulation of the body, which reduces the likelihood of freezing, as well as the creation of condensation;
- You can regulate the operation of the device with your own hands.
Each ventilation duct for a home will require additional installation of this device. In extreme cases, you can get by with one valve, provided there is centralized ventilation.
The functioning of the valve depends on the temperature difference between the room and the outside world. During the operation of forced exhaust, adjustment is carried out manually.
Supply and exhaust circuit with installation of a recuperator
If a supply and exhaust ventilation system is used in a private house, improve its performance possible by installing a recuperator. The device heats the air supplied to the premises. The principle of operation is to heat the air through the air that is removed from the house. However, the system does not mix them. In the summer, you can install the reverse process in the house. The air entering through the forced ventilation duct can be cooled.
This technique deservedly leads among the most diverse options for hoods around the world. According to experts, this scheme has the future, which allows you to manage energy-saving technologies. The cost of this system is high. If you use it constantly, then after a short period of time it will fully recoup the costs.
Creating ventilation in a private house with your own hands
The time has come when all the elements of the ventilation puzzle in a private home are assembled. Selected specific exhaust system, the material has been purchased and all that remains is to install all the elements correctly. The first step is to understand what calculations should be made before installing ventilation. One of them is to calculate the required amount of fresh air. This parameter will be needed when installing channels, as well as when selecting additional equipment.
Calculation of ventilation by area of the house
This calculation is carried out in order to obtain accurate data on air exchange. It is necessary to take into account all the nuances that may affect the result:
Choosing an air duct cross-section for a private house
When it becomes necessary to select the diameter of the ventilation duct, The following system is used:
- the minimum channel diameter should not be lower than 150 millimeters;
- under ideal conditions (vertical installation of the channel, length 3 meters), this diameter allows you to obtain 30 cubic meters of air per hour;
- when it is necessary to increase the air flow, the length and cross-section of the selected channel increases;
- on the same floor of the house, the length of the exhaust ducts should be the same. In this way, you can achieve uniform distribution of air throughout the house;
- The diameter of the ventilation ducts is set to the same for ease of installation of the ventilation system.
Ventilation system in a wooden private house
The peculiarity of creating a hood in wooden houses is that the material independently allows air into the room. That is why such buildings are recommended additionally seal. This is achieved through plastic windows, installation of special insulation, and windproof film. That is why it is necessary to install a special ventilation duct, since the natural flow of fresh air is significantly reduced.
A properly installed ventilation system is the key to comfortable living in a home. Fresh air, optimal humidity and the absence of unpleasant odors are its main tasks. Today we will talk about how to install the system yourself. , a diagram that is optimally suited for each room, and recommendations from professionals - all this is in our material.
Read in the article:
Why are ventilation systems needed in a private home?
For those who still doubt whether installing ventilation in a private house is necessary, we will give a simple example. Breathable air contains about 60 percent oxygen. The remaining 40 are gases that either have no effect on the body or cause harm to it. Our body consumes oxygen from the air and returns carbon dioxide to the atmosphere.
In addition, in a room with insufficient air circulation, harmful bacteria and viruses actively multiply.
Many parents, who wrap up their children too zealously and close all the windows and vents, cannot understand why their child, nevertheless, is constantly sick. The answer is simple - in the stuffy atmosphere of a sealed room, pathogenic organisms feel excellent and successfully attack their prey. They take as their allies the smallest particles of dust, which freely enter the tissues of the lungs and nasopharynx and settle there, causing a cough and a constant runny nose.
Sometimes diseases take a chronic form. But installing ventilation in a private home will help solve all these problems, and the entire structure will cost much less than a full set of medications for treating family members.
In addition to harm to humans, the tightness of premises also causes damage to the structure itself. The lack of normal air exchange leads to the growth of mold and mildew, the destruction of all natural finishing materials and walls. Excessive moisture affects the plaster, which cracks and peels off from the base. Ventilation projects for private houses provide for the specific purpose of each room and create the necessary microclimate in the bathroom, kitchen, boiler room and living rooms.
Types of ventilation systems
According to the basic principle of operation, ventilation systems can be divided into three types:
| View | Description |
|---|---|
| Active | This system works using electrical appliances - fans. The flow of air flows is carried out naturally through channels protected from dust, insects and rodents. The waste streams are removed by exhaust fans. All ventilation ducts are combined into one common pipe. This design is not difficult to install, but does require energy costs. |
| Passive | This version of the ventilation system does not need to be connected to the mains and works due to the natural movement of air flow. Such a system will require the installation of several ventilation ducts in each room of the building. |
| Supply and exhaust | A system that combines the advantages of natural and active ventilation. The incoming air duct is equipped with a filter and a fan that draws in air from the street, and the outgoing air duct is equipped with an exhaust device. This is an economical system; it is enough to install one such device in a room. |
Let's take a closer look at the design principles of each of these systems.
Natural ventilation device in a private house
Installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands should be considered at the stage of designing the house. During the construction of walls, ventilation shafts are laid or pipes are fixed if the house is not made of brick. The system works effectively due to the difference in air pressure and temperature inside and outside the building. Advantages and disadvantages of the system:
For natural air exchange, the diameter of the air duct must be at least 13 centimeters. The installation holes are located under the ceiling.
An approximate diagram of natural ventilation in a private house:
The optimal option is one in which a common air duct is located inside the central wall, to which ventilation ducts from all rooms are connected.
Ask a specialist“The fewer horizontal bends in the system, the more efficient it works.”
Another important point is that the exhaust pipe must be sufficiently insulated. If it is made of brick, then the recommended thickness of the masonry is two and a half bricks. Metal and plastic hoods are insulated with mineral wool. This is necessary so that on frosty days the air duct does not cool down and continues to operate effectively.
The height of the ventilation duct is selected relative to the height of the ridge. To determine the dimensions of the pipe, you need to draw a horizontal line from the ridge, and then another straight line with a rise of 10 degrees. The top point will be the desired value.
Important! The natural ventilation channel for a fireplace or gas boiler must be larger than usual, at least 13 by 26 centimeters. Its masonry is made as airtight as possible.
Features of forced ventilation in a private house
Equipment for forced air exchange is in most cases located in the attic. But there are cases when forced ventilation is installed in the basement of a private house. Usually one powerful device is installed, which will provide exhaust throughout the entire system or be placed in each air duct. In this case, the influx of fresh atmosphere is carried out through windows and vents.
Advice! If doorways in rooms are equipped with baseboards, they should have grilles for unimpeded air penetration.
The system requires installation of additional equipment:
- protective grilles and nets against insects and rodents;
- filters that trap dust, pollen and other allergens;
- cold air flow control valves;
- exhaust fans;
- material that absorbs vibration and sounds;
- air heaters (work in winter);
- air ducts;
- automation units for system control.
To obtain the desired effect, you should choose a forced air exchange system that is most suitable for your home. Here are some possible options:
| System | Description |
|---|---|
| Combined system | Combines natural and forced air supply. Does not require special maintenance and is easy to install. |
| Forced supply with cooling effect | Installed complete with air conditioner. It is quite expensive and requires regular maintenance. |
| Forced with heated air flow | The system components include recuperators. They use the heat of outgoing flows to warm up incoming air masses. Recuperators are not cheap devices, but they can be assembled with your own hands. |
| Recirculation system | Requires the installation of complex devices that mix outgoing exhaust air flows with the street atmosphere and return them to the house. Installation of such a device should only be carried out by qualified personnel. |
Expert opinion
HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) ASP North-West LLC
Ask a specialist“A large general ventilation unit should be located as far as possible from living rooms. Even very good insulation will not make it silent.”
The main requirement for arranging forced ventilation: air masses must move from residential premises (rooms) to non-residential premises (kitchen, bathroom).
Types of systems and their schemes
It is not easy to draw up a diagram of a ventilation system in a private house. This task requires special knowledge and understanding of the correct placement of air ducts, heat exchangers and fans. The efficiency of air exchange depends on the correct layout.
Ask a specialist“If you do not have experience in designing such systems, entrust this task to professionals. You can carry out the installation on your own, but only a specialist can plan everything correctly.”
Basic rules to follow:
- in the chain of ventilation ducts, non-residential premises should be the last;
- the exhaust pipe must be higher than the roof ridge;
- the dimensions of the air ducts are calculated using special formulas;
- Air ducts must be carefully warmed and soundproofed, otherwise the wind will howl in the house.
Supply ventilation in a private house: operating principle and diagram
The supply air exchange system includes several components: an air duct, fittings and the supply chamber itself. The dimensions of the device are relatively small, and such ventilation will not spoil the external and internal appearance of the house.
Important aspect! Incoming air flows must have a temperature of at least 18 degrees. Such an air flow will not disturb the comfortable atmosphere in the room and will not cause colds or drafts. In the case of forced air supply, elements must be built into the system to heat it to the required temperature. Previously, such devices were installed, but in modern construction they have been replaced by recuperators. The principle of their operation is the heat exchange between incoming and outgoing flows through a system of filters and plates.
In a private house, the forced ventilation system has its own characteristics. Usually in a country house there are many household premises with special functions. Unlike a city apartment, it contains a boiler room, a basement, a residential attic, a swimming pool or bathhouse and other objects necessary for the owners. These rooms have different humidity and temperatures, and combining them with one air exchange system is not easy.
It is for this reason that special requirements are put forward in the house:
- It must be powerful enough to serve the entire house.
- An extensive system must provide for the characteristics of different rooms.
- The home owner must have the ability to remotely or manually control air exchange.
- The design must take into account seasonal temperature changes and heat the house in winter and cool in summer.
Related article:
In the article we will consider in detail the types of structures, the principle of operation, how to choose a place for installation, how to properly install the device with your own hands, useful tips and recommendations from specialists.
Principles of exhaust ventilation in a private home and video instructions for installing the hood
Hoods are used to remove exhaust air. It is especially important to install them in rooms where odors actively spread and an unhealthy atmosphere reigns - in the kitchen, in the boiler room, in the bathroom. To forcefully eliminate air masses, you will need a fairly powerful fan and an exhaust hood directed toward the street.
One hood can be installed on a maximum of two heating devices, but representatives of regulatory authorities have the right to require you to install separate chimneys for each device. It is better to do just that, because we are talking about your safety.
Important! If exhaust ventilation through the walls to the street is installed in the boiler room, it must have a sealed air duct so that combustion products do not penetrate into other ducts and rooms. All seams and joints are additionally treated with sealant. In places where the chimney comes into contact with the roofing material, fire-resistant gaskets are installed to prevent fire.
For forced ventilation of the chimney, a fan with a check valve and a fire-resistant asbestos-cement pipe are used. It is acceptable to use metal pipes.
Important! Under no circumstances should plastic pipes be used for exhaust hood in a boiler room or kitchen; they are not heat-resistant and burn easily, releasing toxic fumes.
Nuances of supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house
It is believed that this principle of organizing air exchange is the most productive. Removal of used air masses and injection of new ones occurs simultaneously.
There are two schemes for supply and exhaust ventilation. In the first case, two air ducts are simply installed in the room under the ceiling. Air enters through one hole, and out through another. Both processes occur with the help of fans. In the second case, the supply flow is located at the bottom of the wall. The fan blows in fresh air, and the exhaust air is removed through the air duct by the ceiling naturally. This system works especially effectively in houses with unusually high ceilings.
We focus on each room - what is needed for ventilation?
As already mentioned, in a private house there are many rooms with different purposes. Their features should be taken into account when planning the ventilation system. Let's take a closer look at each case.
Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen: the main thing is the hood
The kitchen is a hot shop, in which there is always a lot of steam, heat, smoke and odors. If you are preparing a festive dinner for guests or the oven is running at full power, you literally can’t breathe.
Advice! You shouldn’t limit yourself to just a kitchen hood in a private home. It must be combined with a general ventilation system. This will prevent food odors from entering other rooms.
Setting up ventilation in the kitchen is not difficult. Here are some recommendations from practitioners:
- It is better to select the hood body from aluminum.
- The filters in the device above the stove must be cleaned at least two to three times a year.
- It is best to choose a device with adjustable fan speed. This will allow you to use different methods of air purification depending on its pollution.
- You should periodically check the efficiency of the ventilation duct using a burning match or piece of paper. If the flame draws in or paper sticks to the grill, the ventilation is working properly.
- For large kitchens with an area of more than 15 square meters, several exhaust ducts are provided.
Video instructions on how to properly install a hood over the stove:
Installation of ventilation in the toilet and bathroom
The atmosphere of the bathroom and toilet is saturated with bacteria and microbes, which, accumulating in a small space, attack not only the human body, but also finishing materials. After taking a bath, the walls remain damp for a long time, and in the absence of a high-quality exhaust hood, the smell in the toilet is unbearable.
To install bathroom ventilation you will need:
- ventilation shaft that goes to the roof. The ventilation duct must be straight and even; only this shape will allow air flow to move unhindered. Its optimal dimensions are from one to two meters;
- external grille with inclined louvres, which protects the channel from atmospheric moisture;
- internal grille with adjustable flap.
For your information! In the bathroom you can install a natural and forced ventilation system. Forced, of course, is more effective.
Important points in installing ventilation in the toilet of a private house:
- For installation, low-noise devices with a maximum value of 30 decibels are used.
- The ventilation duct is placed opposite the front door. This ensures maximum draft and proper distribution of fresh air.
- All duct equipment is placed at a safe distance from heating devices. Ventilation materials cannot withstand temperatures above fifty degrees, unless it is a specialized device for baths and saunas.
- The power of the ventilation device is selected depending on the intensity of use and the size of the room.
- In the bathroom, it is justified to install motion and air humidity sensors and timers on the fans.
Advice! Before designing an air exchange system in a bathroom, read the requirements of SNiP 01/41/2003. This document describes all the requirements for ventilation in a bathroom in a private house.
Ventilation in the basement of a private house: important points
All owners of country houses are interested in the question: how to make ventilation in the basement of a private house? A workshop, laundry room, and boiler room can be located in the basement of a country house. In the basement, many housewives store homemade canned goods and vegetables for the winter.
Dampness provokes the development of mold and destruction of the walls of the basement and basement. In order to create a normal atmosphere in the basement, it is necessary to provide vents or vents even at the stage of pouring the foundation of the house. They are located on opposite sides of the base. If there are partitions inside the basement space, there should be vents in them too. The vents are located under the ceiling of the basement, at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the ground level and must be equipped with rodent bars, otherwise your winter supplies will not be preserved until serving.
For your information! Another real threat to the basement is an explosion of heating equipment if the boiler room is located in this room. Only high-quality ventilation will prevent the accumulation of dangerous gases in the event of an emergency and prevent the fire from spreading throughout the entire house.
The area of the vents can be easily calculated by dividing the area of the basement by 400. The recommended diameter of one hole is 12 centimeters. And it is worth remembering that the effectiveness of their work will directly depend on the prevailing winds on the site, so they should be positioned accordingly. Among other things, when planning vents, one should take into account the characteristics of groundwater, seasonal temperature changes and the amount of precipitation.
Important! To prevent water from pouring into the vents during a rainstorm, install canopies on them and make an inclined blind area that removes moisture from the foundation.
Important information about boiler room ventilation
The main tasks of ventilation for a gas boiler in a private house:
- regulation of carbon monoxide levels. Even if its percentage exceeds 0.2%, this threatens with serious consequences for the human body, including respiratory arrest;
- preventing the occurrence of reverse draft, in which combustion products enter the room;
- providing the room with the oxygen necessary for breathing. In addition, oxygen is also important for the operation of the boiler, because it is in its presence that combustion processes are possible.
An object with a high level of fire risk must be equipped only with a forced air exchange system. Natural ventilation is not suitable here due to its low efficiency.
In order for the heating device to operate normally, the atmosphere in the room needs to be changed three times per hour. Each chimney is equipped with two openings. The upper one is intended for removing gases, the lower one is for periodic cleaning of soot and soot.
Ask a specialist“Before installing the ventilation duct, study the boiler data sheet. It specifies all the requirements for chimney installation. Calculate the boiler room ventilation taking into account all the recommendations.”
All chimney elements are made of fire-resistant materials. To increase the efficiency of the device, a coaxial chimney with two air ducts is installed on floor-standing boilers.
Proper organization of air ducts in the attic
Unobstructed air exchange will prevent the formation of condensation under the roof. This will extend its service life and save you from the need for constant repairs. In winter, the roof will not be covered with ice, and in summer, good ventilation will prevent it from overheating from the sun's rays.
To properly organize attic ventilation in a private home, use perforated soffits. They look neat and decorative, and in addition, they do not allow insects to pass through. In addition to these elements, roof aerators and ventilated ridges are used.
Advice! If soft roofing material is used for the covering, small gaps are made in the counter-lattice to allow air to penetrate.
In the most difficult areas of the roof with a complex geometric shape, point aeration devices are used.
Some tips from roofing professionals:
- attic ventilation should be protected from dust; it quickly absorbs moisture and adversely affects the insulation of the roof;
- all attic vents must be equipped with protection against birds, insects and fallen leaves;
- ventilation ducts must have the same size along their entire length. Any restriction will adversely affect the efficiency of the system;
- When the roof length is over 10 meters, it is recommended to use forced ventilation of the space under the roof.
How to make ventilation ducts for sewers and cesspools
Many people believe that the main task of cesspool ventilation in a private house is simply to eliminate unpleasant odors. This is only partly true. Proper air exchange promotes rapid decomposition of waste and reduces pressure in the local sewerage pipeline. Excess methane, a product of organic matter decomposition, can lead to fire.
To remove exhaust gases, high risers are installed in the right place. They are installed not only in the country toilet, but also in an autonomous waste processing system - in septic tanks and closed tanks.
Important! The height of the sewer ventilation riser should exceed the height of the roof by at least 70 centimeters, and the riser itself should not be located near windows.
If it is not possible to install a riser above the roof, use ventilation valves that open as the atmosphere becomes thinner. The ventilation duct for sewerage can be made of plastic; ordinary sewer pipes are suitable for this.
Air exchange in the basement and foundation
We have already talked about how to improve air exchange in the basement. But what about foundation ventilation in a private house without a basement? In fact, in this case it is necessary to ensure normal air exchange. It will protect floor joists from rot and prevent the accumulation of harmful gases and dampness under the floor.
To ventilate the basement floor of a private house, the same vents with protective grilles are used. They are laid at the time of pouring the foundation on opposite sides. For this purpose, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes are used. At the time of pouring, they are filled with sand so that they do not deform and the solution does not get inside.
How to ventilate a pool
A swimming pool is a special room in which there will be high humidity and temperature. These conditions dictate special requirements for ventilation of a swimming pool in a private home. Only properly organized air exchange will prevent the growth of fungus, which will like the climate of this room. If its growth is not stopped, the spores will cause severe allergic reactions among home owners, and all finishing materials will be destroyed literally before our eyes.
For your information! Favorable air temperature in the pool is 28-32 degrees Celsius. Permissible humidity is 64 percent.
There should be no draft in the room with the pool; this is important for a comfortable stay in it. A swimming pool is one of the most difficult areas to design. For this reason, it is better to entrust the development of a ventilation scheme to specialists.
How to make ventilation in a private house: calculations and step-by-step installation
To calculate ventilation in private houses, you will need some basic values. These are the parameters of each room, its purpose and performance standards for natural and forced air exchange.
Ventilation ducts for passive air exchange are located vertically and go from each room to the roof. In a living space, the atmosphere must be completely renewed every hour.
Ask a specialist“To calculate forced ventilation, you will need to sum up the required air exchange rates for each room, taking into account its area, and based on the resulting amount, select equipment that will cope with this task.”
For example: a house has three rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom and a boiler room. We calculate the productivity for each room in accordance with its purpose and area:
- kitchen -90 cubic meters per hour;
- bathroom – 50 cubic meters per hour;
- boiler room - 70 cubic meters per hour;
- children's room - 40 cubic meters per hour;
- living room - 120 cubic meters per hour;
- bedroom - 60 cubic meters per hour.
Total - 430 cubic meters per hour for the whole house. Therefore, for the successful operation of the ventilation system, an installation capable of handling such a volume of air will be required. You can install one unit or divide the power according to the needs of each room and install the units separately.
An example of how to properly make ventilation in a private house in the following video:
Before deciding how to make a hood in a private house, read the standards SNiP 02/31/2001 and ABOK 2/1/2008. They suggest using it to calculate the air exchange rate. The indicators in these documents differ somewhat, so for independent calculations it is better to choose a larger value.
Features of do-it-yourself ventilation schemes in a private house, depending on the specifics of the building design
- If the air exchange system is combined into one, the design of the ventilation system in a private house should provide for the movement of air from “clean” rooms to “dirty” ones. That is, from living rooms to the bathroom, boiler room and kitchen.
- Supply valves are placed in every room where there is no hood.
- If the building has two or more floors, ventilation ducts are placed according to the basic principles.
- Natural ventilation through vents is provided for the basement, basement, and foundation.
- Passive ventilation exhaust ducts are located strictly vertically.
- For uniform draft, the exhaust channels must be of the same length without narrowing or widening.
To minimize heat loss, ventilation shafts are carefully insulated, especially in places where they open onto the street.
Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in the house
Some difficulties may arise during the work. The main problem is the weight of the equipment for forced ventilation. Sometimes one craftsman is not able to lift and install the unit. That is why take care in advance of an assistant and a lifting mechanism that will make the task easier. You can assemble the unit step by step. The structural units are assembled on the ground and installed sequentially according to the diagram. Do-it-yourself supply and exhaust ventilation is installed using some special equipment.
In a frame house the task is greatly simplified. Installing fresh air ventilation with your own hands will only require the use of a stepladder, drill and jigsaw.
Features of installation work
If ventilation in a private house passes through brick walls, it is better to install ventilation ducts during the construction process, so as not to have to deal with labor-intensive and expensive drilling later. Use templates made of cardboard or wood during the laying process so that all air ducts have the same cross-section. Lay out the inside of the air duct with solid bricks, carefully sealing all joints.
To bring the ventilation outlet to the roof of a private house, you can use asbestos-cement pipes. They are connected to the ventilation duct in the wall and carefully secured, cementing the entire structure.
Important! Make sure that the cross-section at the joints of the ventilation duct does not change. To do this, remove excess solution and make sure that the inner surface of the air duct is smooth.
And, of course, do not forget about your own safety while working:
- do not work on the roof in icy or rainy weather;
- if the roof slope is more than 20 degrees, use insurance;
- when drilling walls, use a hidden wiring sensor;
- When using a jigsaw or drill, use protective glasses and gloves.
How to choose pipes for ventilation
When choosing pipes, the following basic requirements should be taken into account:
- section size;
- heat resistance;
- tightness;
- compliance with sanitary standards.
Round pipes are an easily available material with good aerodynamics. Most often, ventilation in a private house is made from sewer pipes. Air ducts with a square and rectangular cross-section are more difficult to find, but you can make them yourself from a stainless steel sheet. It is easier to install such pipes for ventilation in private houses in right angles and under the ceiling.
Now about the pipe material. Galvanized steel air ducts are resistant to corrosion and temperature changes. Stainless steel is suitable for hoods in “hot” rooms – boiler rooms and kitchens. A plastic vent hood is the cheapest option and is ideal for wet areas.
Article
Modern equipment speeds up and facilitates the cooking process, and makes it much more comfortable. The hood in a private house and city apartment has long become an important element of the technical equipment of the kitchen: it protects the entire home from food odors, and the kitchen itself from grease and soot settling on the walls, ceiling and furniture. Installing this device is not particularly difficult even for a beginner, but an experienced owner who is accustomed to equipping a private home with his own hands can easily do it.
In order for a hood in a kitchen in a private home to cope with the load and work efficiently, it is important to take into account not only the size and appearance of the device, but also its technical capabilities. Therefore, carefully read the parameters that will be useful when choosing a specific model.
A hood in a modern kitchen can become the highlight of the interior
- Hood capacity is the volume of air purified per hour. It is calculated simply: multiply the volume of the kitchen (area by height) by 12 (air exchange rate), multiply the resulting number again by 1.3 (minimum reserve coefficient).
Formula for calculating the minimum hood performance
- Dimensions. The area of the air intake should be no less (and ideally several centimeters larger) than the working surface of the stove.
- Noise level. Usually this parameter is indicated for each model separately; all that remains is to correlate the units of measurement with your own feelings.
On a note! 20 decibels are produced by rustling pages, 25-35 are comparable to a loud whisper or the ticking of a wall pendulum, we accept 50 dB during a normal conversation, 80-90 is the noise from a passing motorcycle or a hair dryer turned on, 110 is the operation of a hammer drill or drill, but at 130 dB and above comes the pain limit.
- Operating modes. Modern hoods combine two principles - removing polluted air into the ventilation system and filtering (recirculating) it with its subsequent return to the room.
The principle of operation of flow-through and circulation kitchen hoods
- Lighting and device control. They choose according to their own taste and wallet - there are models with protruding buttons, with a touch panel, with automatic on/off (of course, the more technical “stuffing”, the more expensive the device). But even the simplest device copes with the main purpose of the hood - removing smoke and fumes.
- Hood design. In addition to high-quality air purification, it is important that the device fits into the interior of the kitchen and is in harmony with other appliances.
Touch model of an inclined hood with a high-tech design
In addition to the listed characteristics, one more important point should be taken into account: if power outages and power surges are frequent in the house, buy a device with a built-in or separately connected fuse.
Important! When purchasing a recirculation model, keep in mind that the power of the device should be 30% higher than that of a standard hood, because the device not only extracts, but also recycles air. You will also have to take care of timely (at least twice a year) replacement of filters. But such a hood has a global advantage: it can be installed in a house where access to the ventilation duct is difficult.
Types of hoods - appearance and technical characteristics
Today's household appliances market offers us three main models of hoods. After studying the information about them, you will be able to decide which hood in the kitchen of a private home will be most effective.
Flat (classic) suspended hood
A hanging hood can be hidden in a wall cabinet
The main operating mode is recirculation. It is recommended for small kitchens, as it is the lowest power and simply cannot cope with large volumes of air. An additional disadvantage is the constant (and expensive) replacement of filters - carbon or acrylic. But this design does not require the installation of an additional air duct and can be attached directly to the kitchen cabinet.
Built-in hood
Built-in models are easy to hide
The device fits freely into a hanging cabinet; only the air inlet remains below, most often equipped with an additional retractable panel. Due to this, it is ideally camouflaged and can fit into any interior, but additional installation of an air duct is required, which can be led into the finished ventilation, through a wall or roof. The device itself is not much more powerful than the previous version, but it does a better job of removing smoke and odors due to the forced release of polluted air outside.
Dome or fireplace hood
Dome appliances look stylish and modern
The most powerful and modern models. They do not need to be disguised; on the contrary, their design can become a real decoration of the kitchen. They can be used in any location of the stove - in a corner, against a wall or in the middle (island option). The classic outlet of the air duct is upward, to the roof, although you can install an exhaust hood in a private house through the wall.
Important! If the kitchen is large and there are additional heating or cooking appliances, it is necessary to use a really powerful hood. This is especially true for private houses, where, in addition to the stove and oven, there is also a gas/solid fuel boiler in the room.
Installing a built-in hood in the kitchen
Let us consider in detail the installation of a built-in device - the most common model, which is suitable for almost any type of room. To install a hood in a private house with your own hands, the installation diagram involves several stages.
Preparatory work
Proper preparation for installing the hood is the most important stage, which takes the most time.
- We choose a place for the hood, focusing on the location of the stove and the dimensions of the device body.
- We make markings on the wall for fasteners, making sure to use a level. When installed above a gas stove, we place the air intake panel at a height of 75-85 cm; for an electric hob, the distance can be reduced to 65-75 cm.
- Based on the markings, we punch holes and drive dowels into them.
- To embed a hood in a kitchen cabinet, you need to cut a hole in it for the body (usually the bottom or part of it is removed) and for the air exhaust pipe on the back side or roof.
- We calculate the route of the air duct from the hood body to the ventilation outlet. We take into account that the length of the pipe should not exceed 3 m, and we try to keep the number of bends to a minimum.
Important! Each 90-degree turn of the pipe reduces ventilation performance by at least 10%.
- We purchase the equipment necessary for air exhaust, since the hood is sold without it. The most affordable ones are now considered to be plastic pipes (round or flat) or metallized flexible hose - corrugation. For a less experienced installer, the last option will be more convenient - it has fewer swivel joints. True, when open, the corrugation is not very aesthetically pleasing, so you should think about buying a decorative box with which you can close it.
Built-in model duct easily fits inside a regular cabinet
- We prepare the ventilation outlet. When connecting to an existing ventilation system, we simply remove the protective grille and insert a corrugation or pipe inside. If in a wooden house a kitchen hood is installed with an outlet to the street through a wall or ceiling, you need to drill a hole of the required diameter (at least 120 mm) for the air duct. In a building made of brick or aerated concrete blocks, such a drain will be more difficult to make, since there is a high risk of damaging the masonry, so it is better to opt for the option with a ventilation duct.
Output diagram for external ventilation hole
- We install an anti-return valve that will not allow exhaust air to return back into the room. We close the hole from the outside with a ventilation grill.
- We will equip the connection to the power supply. It is better to place the socket behind the hood housing or the air duct pipe, and it must be grounded.
The most difficult stage is completed, the next is the installation of the hood body.
Installing the hood housing
For a built-in hood, you just need to attach the housing (or a cabinet with the appliance box installed in it) to the kitchen wall. To do this, we use a pair of self-tapping screws screwed into prepared dowels. To prevent the body of the hood from resonating during operation, you can glue it to the cabinet using liquid nails. If there are shelves inside the furniture, you need to make holes for the air duct on each of them. Now you can move on to laying an outlet for polluted air.
To correctly make holes in the cabinet, the main thing is to know the diameter of the air duct pipe
Air duct installation
We run the air duct pipe to the installation site of the hood housing above the gas stove. Depending on the materials chosen, this process can occur in different ways.
- In the case of arranging an outlet made of plastic pipes, you need to carefully select all the elements - the pipes themselves, rotary angles and adapters for connecting to the ventilation hole and the hood outlet. We remember that the diameter of the air duct must be the same along its entire length, since contractions and expansions can disrupt the balance of the entire system. By the way, if the length of the pipe is more than a meter, it is worth taking care of additional fastenings. After complete assembly, all joints must be treated with sealant.
The plastic air duct is easily camouflaged
- When choosing corrugated air duct as a pipe, the work is much less. You just need to secure the ends of the sleeve to the ventilation outlet and hood with reinforced tape, ensuring sufficient tension to reduce resistance. However, if you want to preserve the kitchen interior in a single design solution, the corrugation must also be disguised. For example, you can lay it behind the kitchen cabinets, which is very inconvenient. It’s easier to cover it with decorative panels or buy a ready-made communication box.
Corrugated air duct - easy to install, harder to hide
All that remains is to check the functionality of the fully assembled system; to do this, plug the device into a power outlet and press the “start” button.
How to make a duct box
If the ventilation hole is located at a considerable distance from the stove, the corrugation laid through the half-kitchen will disrupt the entire design of the room. And a flat plastic air duct, which is so easy to decorate to match the color of walls or cabinets, may not work in a large room where a powerful hood is required.
Of course, there are exceptions - these are kitchens decorated in high-tech loft style, where corrugations, pipes, wires and other communications become a thematic addition to the interior. If the room is not decorated in an urban spirit, it does not need such decorations. And the simplest and most effective way of decoration would be to cover the space between the upper cabinets and the ceiling with plasterboard.
Important! For the kitchen, moisture-resistant plasterboard is best suited, and ideally with fire-retardant impregnation.
Work algorithm:
- Markings are made along the ceiling for a metal profile frame. The lines are marked using a level, the edge of the cabinets serves as a guide - the future box should completely follow all the bends of the working wall. And the structure itself can be located either on the same level with the cabinets (perfect camouflage is obtained if you choose the color of the plasterboard finish to match the furniture), or protrude above their surface to achieve the effect of a two-level ceiling.
Box made for a two-level ceiling
- The profile is cut into the required fragments and attached to the ceiling and shelves using dowels/screws.
- The structure is strengthened with vertical posts every 80-100 cm.
- Then sheets of plasterboard are cut out, and the frame is sheathed around the perimeter with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 mm (and they need to be screwed in so that the caps are recessed into the material by 0.5-1 mm). Opposite the ventilation hole, you need to make an inspection hatch so that, if necessary, you do not have to disassemble the entire structure. For this area, the drywall is cut exactly to size, but is not fastened with self-tapping screws (you can spot-fix the panel with sealant and then remove it using a construction suction cup or install small doors).
- Now all that remains is to treat the marks from the fasteners and the joints of the sheets with putty to level the surface, and decorate with a finish that matches the interior. This could be wallpaper, tiles, PVC film or other suitable material.
Plasterboard frame for hood
On a note! You can additionally install spotlights in the protruding box - this looks beautiful and will be a convenient help for the housewife, because there is never too much light in the kitchen.
Air duct box with lighting - impressive and functional
Hood installation rules:
Now you know how to properly make a hood in a private home and solve the issue of decorating it. As you can see, the main aspects of installation are not particularly complicated and do not take much time. But it is not always possible to cope with the preparation on your own, especially when it comes to a hood in the wall in a private house. Therefore, to drill an external hole, you will have to rent special equipment or invite professionals who will do everything quickly, cleanly and efficiently.
