When and how to plant bulbs correctly? Do I need to replant them and how often? How to dig up and store the bulbs? Can tulips and hyacinths be planted from containers in a flower garden? We answer exciting questions about planting and growing bulbous flowers
Spring bulbs decorate the garden long before other flowers bloom on the beds, autumn and summer. Flowers that have grown from bulbs are attractive for their beauty, unusual shape and color of inflorescences. It is not so difficult to grow them in your flower garden.
Once the roots of the "Ruby Giant" have established themselves, their flowers will appear from year to year, seemingly endlessly. This early blooming crocus is one of the best for naturalization in grass. Growing up to 4-6 inches in height, this beauty is easily naturalized and will return year after year! Perhaps almost as useful as Narcissus is snowflakes. It has 4 to 8 white, nodded, bell-shaped flowers with greenish tepals hanging from each long, fairly sturdy flower stem. The ensemble is beautifully complemented by clusters of dark herbaceous green leaves.
We answer the most common questions that beginner flower growers have while growing these plants.
1. When to plant bulbs?
Planting time is the key to growing bulb flowers. Of course, you are well aware that spring bulbs are planted in autumn, and summer and autumn ones in spring. But it is not only the season that matters, but also the specific month of planting. So, for example, both Galanthus and Crocus bloom in early spring, but the first is planted in the ground from July to September, and the second - from September to early November.
Narcissus "Ice Spells"
As an added bonus, the flowers are softly chocolate-flavored! This classic daffodil cultivar is very prolific and excellent for daring plantings in the grass. A fast plant, it naturalizes well. Great for cut flowers.
Narcissus Salome
Multiple laureate Narcissa "Salome" is an elegant daffodil with very large flowers, up to 3 inches across, combining creamy petals around a yellow cup of primrose, softly fading to peach pink. Great for cut flowers, Salome blooms in the garden from early morning until mid-spring.In any case, the universal rule states that bulbous plants should never be planted in frozen ground.
How well the plant takes root, and in general whether it blooms, depends on whether you correctly observe the timing of planting the bulbs. H
2. How deep to plant bulbs?
Another important question. Bury the bulb too deep - the plant may not reach the surface at all. Insufficient depth - the bulb can dry out or get sunburn and die.
Narcissus "Tete tete"
This daffodil naturalizes well and will grow over time. A great way to add the sea of blue color into a rock garden or border front. It is one of the most winter hardy cuttings and can be found in the hardy zone. It is also one of the best bulbous plants for naturalization!
Tulipa the Orange Emperor
Blooming beautifully in early to mid-spring, the award-winning Orange Emperor is a glowing orange tulip with large, wide petals, a yellow yellow base and black anthers. Enjoying a sturdy stem, it will withstand strong winds and float gracefully over its graceful sword-like foliage. This is a perfect colorful focal point in a spring garden.
The smaller the tuber or bulb, the closer to the surface of the earth they are planted. Small-bulbous, for example, are most often buried by 5-10 cm, flowers with a large bulb or corm - by 15-20 cm. When planting some exotic summer-flowering plants (amaryllis, hymenokallis, etc., the upper part of the bulb is left on the surface.
The outstanding, award-winning Spring Green tulip is a truly extraordinary tulip with its amazing ivory flowers and soft green plumage. Fresh, sturdy and reliable, its overall flower form is covered in cubes up to about 3 inches across. It grows with a strong, upright stem that is resistant to wind. Spring flowering bulbs offer a robust colorful display when you need it most and require very little effort. From which end up, before you feed, here are some tips for planting spring bulbs.
Most often, gardeners use this rule: the planting depth is equal to the height of the bulb, multiplied by three.
3. At what distance should the bulbs be planted?
Some bulbs do well in group plantings. For example, a miniature crocus is definitely not a warrior in the field. But there are among the bulbous and real "introverts" who prefer solitude. For example, krinums, amaryllis, lilies are planted at a distance of 20-40 cm from each other.
Additional tips for displaying a large lamp
Small bulbs are cheaper and will have fewer or fewer flowers, but if you can be patient, they will mature in 3-4 years. Most flowering bulbs are preferred, but it can be almost anywhere in the spring before the trees float out. So don't lose sight of what seems to be perfect, simply because it's a little shady in the fall. In areas with cold winters, you can plant bulbs as long as the soil is soft enough to dig a hole. In areas without winter freezing, you may need to purchase pre-chilled bulbs, but you do not need to plant the bulbs until early spring. Take with the pointed side up. You may even be able to see some shriveled roots on. If you really can't tell, don't worry about it. Stock will find it in its own way, sooner or later. You can hedge your bets and land them sideways. Mix some or superphosphates into the soil at the bottom of the hole during planting to encourage strong root growth. You can mix in some water-soluble fertilizers as well, but this is not necessary if you already have one. If rodents tend to eat your bulbs, you can try sprinkling red pepper into the planting hole. A safer method is to plant your bulbs in a tissue cage. Take it easy on yourself and make the cage large enough to plant at least a dozen bulbs. Or you can do it very lightly on yourself and stick with the daffodils, which rodents and most other animals avoid. Replace the soil on top of the bulbs. Water the bulbs after planting to help settle and close air pockets. Through fall and winter, you only need to worry about watering the bulbs if you have a particularly dry season. Come spring, you should be rewarded for all your efforts. To get a natural effect, either dig a large area, fill a few bulbs at once, or simply throw the bulbs in the air and dig holes and plant where they fall. Share your plants: so you don't get in the way of the bulbs by trying to plant something in the same spot, mark where and what you plant. Spring Care: When your bulbs are finished blooming, cut the flower stems to ground level. It may get ugly, but let the foliage of your flowering bulbs die off naturally. This time the lamp needs photosynthesis and food storage for next year's flower production. More on here: Many bulbs spread and enlarge making the initial planting crowded. If your bulbs aren't blooming as well as they used to, they probably are. If you want to move or split flowering bulbs, the safest time is when they enter their dormant period. This usually happens immediately after the foliage has completely died off. Peace is brief, although nothing is happening above the ground, so don't put off this task.
- Start by choosing healthy bulbs.
- Avoid bulbs that are withered, spongy, or moldy.
- In general, the larger the lamp for its type, the more colors.
- Choose a suitable location.
- Choose a spot that is well-drained to prevent rotting.
- To a depth of about 3 times their diameter.
- For, it's about 6-8 inches.
- Smaller bulbs can be planted 3-4 inches deep and so on.
- Roots and stems grow, but rodents cannot reach the bulbs.
- For a natural effect: Bulbs look best in lumps or drifts.
- You will be surprised how well it works.
- Resist the temptation to cut it off while it is still green but flexible.
So that the plants are not crowded in the flower bed, it is necessary to clearly maintain the recommended distance between them. On average, the distance between large bulbs or corms should be at least 5 cm.
4. Which side to bury the bulbs?
Naturally, the bulbs, tubers and corms are buried with the bottom, from which the roots grow, down, and the top, from which the sprout appears, up. It would seem nothing complicated. But in the case of small-bulbous flowers, it is often difficult to determine which is the top and which is the bottom.
Small powertrains are perfect for those looking to head out to the colorful spring garden as early as possible. The vibrant blooms of the flowers make daffodils, tulips and many other early blooms an excellent remedy for winter blues. Onion flowers contribute to the fact that we can already spot flowering plants if they look rather dull on the outside. Early breeders such as crocuses, pre-spring anemones or dwarf irises evoke the joyful feeling that winter has lost its vigor.
Flowering plants flowering - fast and easy
Snowdrops and winter flowers bloom even when it's cold and cold and spring is still far away. Planting flower bulbs is quite simple: they bring energy to the shoot and to the flower because the nutrients are stored in their interior. Planting depth is usually indicated on the package and only a small scrap is needed for planting.
What to do in such a situation? It is best to lay the onion on its side. So she will still find her way to a place in the sun. But if you plant it upside down, you won't have to count on seedlings.
5. How to feed bulbs?
Florists' advice on feeding bulbous plants varies.
Some add bone meal or a complex fertilizer of prolonged action immediately to the planting pit. Others add rotted compost or manure during flowering. Still others feed the bulbous with complex potassium-phosphorus fertilizer in early spring.
Grown in pots, boxes, or tubs, many flower bulbs also adorn the balcony, terrace, or entrance of a home. One aspect is very important, so that the flower bulbs in the garden as well as in the vessels can develop optimally: since they cannot tolerate tricks, excess flooding or rainwater should flow well.
Fascinating development of flower bulbs
Flower bulbs are also suitable for inexperienced gardeners because they bloom quickly and reliably and are therefore unpretentious and uncomplicated. Tulips, daffodils and juices are always a special experience, also for children, because it's amazing how beautiful flowers come out of a rather unimpressive colored onion in spring.
Be that as it may, all these agricultural practices give good results. It only remains to choose the option that is most convenient for you.
6. When to transplant bulbs?
Bulbous plants cannot grow in one place forever - after several seasons, their appearance deteriorates markedly, they may stop blooming. To bring the plant back to life, you need to transplant it to a new place.
It looks like a little miracle, and it's fascinating to watch the development of plants. The best way to do this is to grow flower bulbs not only in the garden, but also in pots near the house or on the balcony. Then its development from the first tender green to the flowering plant can be observed even from the warm living room.
Whether in a pot or in a garden, flower bulbs also offer many opportunities to experiment with their abundance of flowers or use them in a targeted way. With a wide variety of varieties, it is easy to apply colorful bed gardens or colorful miniature potted gardens. First of all, the assortment of tulips offers a huge number of flowers, as well as varieties, the flowers of which are multi-colored. There are even tulips whose flowers are partially green. Daffodils also surprise with their variety, because in addition to varieties with flowers in a wide variety of gel tones, there are also those with white or bicolor flowers.
Small-bulbous (muscari, white flower, chionodox, pushkinia, etc.) are transplanted every 5-8 years. Crocuses and daffodils should change their "registration" every 3-5 years. The frequency of transplanting tulips depends on their "pedigree": it is enough to transplant wild-growing ones after 3-5 years, but "purebred" varietal tulips are transplanted annually.
Some wild bulbous, for example, galanthuses, do not tolerate transplanting well, so it is undesirable to dig them out.
For this reason, many wonderful color combinations can be made with on-tone flower ensembles, such as harmonious purple tones, using contrasting compositions such as white and pink, in fun and colorful blends with many different colors. It is important that the flowering season of the selected varieties coincides. Anyone not sure can also use ready-to-use color mixes. They were collected by experts and offer the advantage that the varieties they contain will certainly all bloom at the same time.
The variety of onions delights researchers not only because there are always new breeds. Some species are amazing, for example with flowers that look completely atypical, such as the dwarf petal with its beautiful white and yellow flower stars.
7. When to dig the bulbs?
If you are faced with the need to transplant bulbous flowers, it is important to correctly determine the moment when they can be dug up.
A prerequisite is that the aboveground part of the plants must completely wither. After the end of flowering, gradually stop watering the bulbs and wait until the leaves and stems completely die off. When the plant turns yellow, it means it has finally stopped growing and is ready to be dug up. Until this moment, it is impossible to cut off, cut off, bend to the ground the aerial part of the bulbous ones - this weakens the bulbs.
There are also tulips that smell delicate, others have flowers that look like they were painted with a paintbrush. The early blooming of many onion flowers is a valuable strategy for species conservation as well as wintering in the soil: flower bulbs and tubers are underground storage facilities in which plants are well protected on Earth during the cold season. Due to the early flowering period, onion flowers can use all the sunlight in front of the summer green shrub, and the leaves are shady soil.
How to store the bulbs before planting?
This early development offers blue and co-nature advantages over the rest of the plant life: due to early flowering and attractive flowers, they have less competition with pollination. Thus, their chances are better to form seeds for the conservation of the species.
If the sight of withered, yellowed foliage does not inspire you, and your hand still reaches for garden shears, try planting bulbs in mixborders or containers with perennial or annual flowers next season. Then the wilting of spring primroses will not be so striking.
It is also important to consider that the digging is carried out only in dry weather. If the bulbs are removed from damp soil, they can rot during storage.
8. How to store bulbs before planting?
First of all, immediately after you have dug up the bulbs, you need to sort them out and discard all diseased and damaged specimens.
After that, the bulbs are washed under running water and immersed in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate or Fundazole for 20-30 minutes.
Next, the bulbs are dried in the fresh air, having previously covered them with tulle or gauze so that insects cannot lay eggs on them. Then the bulbs are laid out in a single layer in boxes or baskets, where they will be stored.
The bulbs must be dormant between digging and planting. To do this, you must constantly maintain the recommended storage conditions.
For 3-5 days, the boxes are transferred to the house or placed in any warm, dry room with a temperature of 20-25 ° C. After that, the bulbs should be stored in a well ventilated room with a temperature of 17-20 ° C and a humidity of 60-70%.
9. What to do if the bulbs sprouted during the frost?
If spring has not yet arrived, and the first sprouts of flowers have appeared from under the layer of snow, do not panic - everything is going according to plan! Many bulbous primroses (snowdrops, erantis, crocuses) often bloom at the end of winter.
They do not need to be additionally insulated. Spring bulbs are distinguished by excellent resistance to low temperatures, and they are not afraid of frost. But additional shelter can only do harm: during the spring melting of snow, mulch will retain water, and bulbous, as you know, do not like waterlogging very much.
One of the few bulbous plants that thrives on wet soils is camassia.
10. Is it possible to plant bulbs from containers in the garden?
If you bought expelled tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses or muscari in containers in the spring, you can transfer them to your flower garden, but only if certain conditions are met.
It is important to consider that such flowers were forced to bloom ahead of time artificially. Therefore, by the end of flowering, they are strongly weakened and need increased care.
In expelled flowers, wilted inflorescences are removed, and leaves and peduncles are allowed to turn yellow and wither on their own.
To strengthen the bulbs, feed them with liquid complex potash-phosphorus fertilizer, making the solution 2 times less concentrated than recommended in the instructions. Water the flowers when the potted soil dries out to a depth of 2.5 cm.
When the risk of recurrent spring frosts subsides, transplant the plants into open ground to the same depth to which they were planted in containers. The aerial part does not need to be removed.
Perhaps the next year the bulbous ones will not bloom, but in the third year they will most likely delight you with lush flowering. Worth a try, anyway.
11. Why didn't the bulbs bloom?
There may be several reasons why bulbous plants did not bloom. We have already described some of them above.
1. Flowers need replanting. Perhaps you have not transplanted bulbous for a long time, or the flowers have grown a lot and they are simply cramped. Return to # 6 and follow the transfer directions.
2. You have transplanted bulbs from containers. As we explained above, bulbous plants do not always bloom the next year after distillation.
3. Bulbous plants grow in the shade. Most bulbous flowers need good lighting for good growth and beautiful flowering. Perhaps the reason lies in the fact that the planting is shaded by a large tree or shrub.
4. Plants lack nutrients. Probably, the soil on your site is poor, and without feeding the flowers are starving.
We hope we were able to answer the most common questions regarding planting and storing bulbous flowers. If you still have questions, do not hesitate to ask them in the comments to this article or on our forum.
The owners of summer cottages pay special attention to the cultivation of bulbous flowers. Basically, these are perennial plants, so it is important to provide them with a comfortable wintering so that in early spring the primroses will delight you with a riot of colors. Before tending your bulbous plants, take note of the advice from experienced gardeners on this page. You will learn how to feed the bulbs, how to propagate them correctly, and fight diseases and pests.
Most primroses are bulbous plants. They bloom all spring, and in the summer their aerial part dies off. By autumn, new shoots are formed underground. In this state, the bulbs hibernate in their reliable underground shelter, and in early spring they start growing, making their way through the thawed surface.
How to plant bulbous flowers
Bulbs are usually planted in late summer - early autumn, when the bulbs are dormant. If autumn is warm, planting can be done in October-November. The main thing is that when planting flowers, the bulbs that spent their first winter underground, get stronger, take root, gain strength for the formation of the first shoots. In the first year, buds can be set on the plant, but it is recommended to pinch them off to strengthen the stems and foliage.
In the spring, it is permissible to plant some bulbous plants and transplant flowering bushes. However, this can only be done if you have sufficient experience and knowledge about a particular type of primroses. Some of them tolerate transplanting well in spring, for example, adonis, while others, such as white flowers, do not like to be disturbed when in bloom.
Before planting bulbous plants, be sure to pay attention to their condition. The bulbs should not be dry or rotten - it is almost impossible to fix these defects. Roots and shoots are allowed, but they should be very small.
There may be damages on the upper scales, but only healed ones - dried and treated with agents from fungus and mold. The bottom of the bulb and renewal buds must be intact, without defects.
The bulbs are planted immediately after purchase. The bulbs of some varieties of primroses dug out on the site are allowed to be stored, but not more than 2-3 weeks. But before planting the bulbous flowers of daffodils, they must be kept in a cool place throughout the winter.
To facilitate the care and growing of bulbous flowers, as well as to protect the bulbs after digging up from damage by mold, fungus and other pathogens, it is useful to treat them with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Reproduction of bulbous flowers and herbaceous plants
Herbaceous bulbous plants can be propagated by seeds, which are harvested in late spring - mid-summer, depending on the type of plant and the date when it starts flowering. It is best to sow seeds immediately after harvest because they cannot withstand long-term storage. As a last resort, you can plant seeds in early fall. It is desirable to sow them in buried boxes or pots, so it is easier to monitor the seedlings.
During the propagation of bulbous flowers in late autumn, winter and spring, the sown seeds are strengthened and gain vitality under the influence of low temperatures, that is, they undergo the so-called stratification. When caring for bulbs in spring and summer, it is advisable to cover the seedlings with foil so that weed seeds do not get here.
In addition, bulbs are propagated by dividing bushes or parts of bulbs. New varieties are often planted with seeds, and it is better to propagate existing plants vegetatively. The fact is that the plants planted with baby bulbs bloom in 1-3 years, and the sown plants bloom only after 4-7 years.
Reproduction of bulbous plants is also possible by self-seeding, but this process usually leads to thickening of the plantings and the formation of daughter shoots. Primroses growing too densely cease to bloom as intensely. Therefore, the planting must be thinned out, regularly planted and replanted. Most often, bulbs do not grow in the same place for more than 3-5 years. Self-seeding can also be beneficial, because in this way the flowers spread over a large area on their own, with almost no effort on the part of the gardener.
Soil for growing bulbs in the garden
The soil for bulbous plants should be fertile, well-drained, with a neutral level of acidity. These conditions are suitable for most primroses, however each plant species has its own preferences.
River sand or humus is usually used as drainage. Drainage will not harm all bulbous plants, because they do not like stagnant moisture, and loose soil evaporates excess liquid faster.
Spring flowers are usually planted in sunny, elevated areas. Good for this are vertical flower beds, rockeries, alpine slides, multi-tiered flower beds. The sooner the snow melts at the primroses planting site, the faster the vegetative period begins and the first delicious buds appear.
When growing bulbs in the garden, drainage of heavy soil is necessary so that water does not stagnate, moisture is quickly absorbed and evaporated.
Bulb flower care: how to feed bulbous
When caring for bulbous flowers, they are fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers. Phosphate fertilizers contribute to more active flowering, potassium strengthens the bulbs.
Foliage develops better when feeding bulbous nitrogenous substances. For this reason, they should not be added in excess, since with abundant foliage, the plant is more susceptible to infection by rot, mold and fungus.
Primroses usually need a lot of moisture during flowering. This is due to the fact that in nature in the places of their natural growth, from where they came to horticultural culture, the earth is moistened in spring due to melting snow and frequent precipitation.
When planting bulbous flowers in spring, especially if the spring is dry, you need to help nature and provide your favorite garden plants with additional moisture. However, bulbous do not like excess moisture, since it leads to the onset of the decay process. For the same reason, you should not plant bulbs in areas with a tendency to stagnate water.
Diseases and pests of bulbous flowers
Rodents and moles. Rodents and moles can seriously harm garden plants. For animals, bulbs become a tasty food in the autumn-winter period. Voles take whole bulbs into their burrows, and they can gnaw them right in the ground. Then the plants germinate, but they turn out to be weak and unviable. Moles can damage or dig up bulbs as they move underground.
The most effective way to keep small animals out of your plants is to set up bait traps. If you do not want to harm hungry animals, use folk remedies.
These pests of bulbous flowers are repelled by plants such as hazel grouse and black root (cinoglossum). Experienced gardeners scare off moles and mice by spraying flower beds with infusion of Valerian officinalis root. You can plant valerian as an ornamental herb.
To protect against rodents, you can try to treat the bulbs with kerosene or Vishnevsky ointment before planting. Frightens off mice with ground red pepper, poured on the soil around the flower garden.
Another effective option is special ultrasonic rodent repellents. In addition, voles will not make burrows in open spaces, therefore, weeds should not be allowed to grow near the flower beds, and it is also necessary to regularly thin out the clumps themselves.
Caterpillars and slugs. Caterpillars of scoop butterflies and underground slugs are no less harmful to bulbous plants. Caterpillars can be harvested from plants by hand, it is best to do this in the fall, before they turn into pupae.
If this moment is missed, there will be even more caterpillars next year. To detect caterpillars and stop their active spread, it is necessary to weed the columbaria more often.
Slugs tend to settle in moist, heavy soils. That is why it is so important to loosen the soil on which they grow spring primroses... Before planting the bulbs, almost always a layer of sand is first poured into the hole, which prevents underground slugs from accessing them.
In summer and autumn, after the foliage dies, it is also necessary to ensure that the territory of the flower garden does not undergo stagnation of moisture. Be sure to loosen the soil after heavy rainfall. If slugs begin to threaten the landings, use special remedies for them. For example, you can dig in a plastic bottle half filled with apple juice or beer. The slugs are attracted by the smell emanating from these drinks, they crawl into the bottle, but cannot get out. You just have to throw the bottle away or burn it.
Caterpillars and slugs do not like the pungent smells of spicy herbs, therefore, in the vicinity of flower beds, they will find beds with such green crops as parsley, sage, rosemary, garlic, etc.
Bulbous nematode. The bulb nematode is a dangerous thin, microscopic worm that infects bulbs, less often aerial parts of plants. Transmitted with infected specimens, spreads quickly. Signs of infection are yellow spots on the leaves, dark rings on the cut of the bulb.
The bottom of the bulb is covered with brown streaks. Infected specimens cannot be treated, they must be destroyed immediately.
To prevent infection of especially valuable healthy plants in the case of their proximity to diseased specimens, the bulbs are dug up, soaked in hot water (40-45 ° C) for 2 hours, then planted in another place.
On the site where plants diseased with nematodes grew, bulb flowers are not planted for 4 years. It is better to grow crops that are tolerant to stem and bulbous nematodes here: spinach, carrots, beetroot, cabbage of various types, and cereals. They will help rid the area of \u200b\u200bnematodes.
Viruses. Signs of viral diseases in bulbous are: leaf curling, the appearance of tubercles and pale spots on them. Such plants must be destroyed immediately. If you managed to collect seeds from them before eliminating the infected plants, you can sow them without fear - viruses do not penetrate into them.
Fungus and mold. Infection with bulbous fungal diseases is indicated by dark brown or black spots on the leaves, a fluffy gray bloom on the lower part of the plant.
Fungus and mildew appear in damp conditions and spread from the soil up the stem and leaves of the shrubs. Damaged plant parts must be cut off and burned. Fungicidal agents help against fungus and mold.
Putrid bacteria. Bulbous plants affect different kinds rot. Most often, it is not possible to cure infected flowers, they have to be destroyed.
Since bacterial diseases spread quickly, control measures must be taken immediately when they appear. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to carefully examine the bulbs before planting, rejecting all suspicious specimens.
Healthy plants growing next to diseased plants should be treated with fungicides. It is better to spray these substances next to flowers, without touching green plantings. The best period for using fungicides is when the aerial part of the bulbous plants dies off. To prevent rot from spreading, you should not overmoisten the bulbous ones and drain the soil under them well.
Root rot. Signs - the leaves brighten, dry and wither, the roots soak, stratify, the plants weaken and die. Preventive measures are to increase the acidity of the soil, keep plants dry, reduce watering and fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. The soil should be well drained before planting.
White rot. Signs - the leaves turn yellow at the edges. The bacteria enter the bulbs from the soil. Preventive measures - for planting, use bulbs with whole, strong outer scales.
Black rot.Signs - the stem is damaged at the base, rots and breaks off. The bulbs are covered with black spots and bloom, which is the mycelium of bacteria. Preventive measures - diseased plants should be removed along with a lump of soil and special targeted preparations should be used.
Gray rot.Signs - the leaves at the edges dry out, become covered with a gray bloom, especially at high humidity. The disease spreads to the stem and flowers of the plant, the scales of the bulbs are covered with a pale brown mycelium. Preventive measures - all infected specimens must be quickly destroyed. The adjacent territories are treated with fungicides.
Brown rot. Signs - the edges of the leaves are covered with light spots, which are slightly depressed dried holes. The flowers begin to wither and rot. Prevention measures for this disease of bulbous flowers are the removal of infected plant parts. To combat brown rot, plants are treated with fungicides.
Ash infusion can be used to protect crops from powdery mildew. To do this, 2-3 kg of wood ash is poured into 7 liters of water, boiled for an hour, after which the broth is cooled and filtered.
