Electric kettle status indicator. We independently repair the electric kettle Drawing of the connection of wires in the electric kettle

09.02.202127.05.2017

Illumination circuits for electrical switches. There are backlit switches on sale, but rarely will anyone come together to replace an already installed one without backlighting and still serviceable. However, it is not at all difficult

Illumination circuits for electrical switches.

There are backlit switches on sale, but rarely will anyone come together to replace an already installed one without backlighting and still serviceable. However, it is not at all difficult to modify any switch with your own hands by installing a backlight on an LED or a neon lamp in it.

Backlit wall switches are no different in design and also connect to the wiring like conventional switches.

Having spent half an hour of time, those who want to improve the comfort of nightlife will be able to supplement the switches in their apartment with lighting on their own, even without the skills of an electrician. Read how to do this below and you will succeed. You can equip the switch with lighting in three simple ways. The circuit differs not only in the package, but also in the technical characteristics. For example, an LED circuit may not work if the luminaire contains LED bulbs. And energy saving lamps may flicker or glow dimly in the dark. Let's consider in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of the schemes.

Switch illumination circuit based on LED and resistance.

Currently, the switches for the backlight are installed, as a rule, LEDs included in the switch according to the electrical diagram below.

When the switch is in the "OFF" position, the current passes through the resistance R1, then through the LED VD2, which is on. The VD1 diode protects VD2 from reverse voltage breakdown. R1 of any type with power more than 1 W, rated from 100 to 150 kOhm. With the R1 rating indicated in the diagram, the current flows about 3 mA, which is quite enough for a clearly visible glow in the dark. If the glow of the LED is insufficient, then the resistance value must be reduced. VD1 of any type, VD2 of any type and color of light. In order to understand the theory and independently calculate the magnitude and power of the resistor, you need to read the article "The Law of Current Strength".

The lighting circuit of the switch on the LED can be installed if incandescent bulbs are used in the luminaire. If there are compact fluorescent (energy-saving) ones, then it is possible that in the dark you may notice their faint glow or flickering. If LED bulbs are installed in the luminaire, then the backlight made according to this scheme may not even work, since the resistance of the LED bulb is very high and a current of sufficient strength for the LED to glow may not be generated. In the dark, the LED light may glow slightly. The circuit is very simple, but it has a big drawback, it consumes a lot of electricity, about 1 kWh per month. This is how the assembled circuit looks like.

It remains only to connect the ends that look down to the terminals of the switch. If you did not make mistakes during installation, the circuit will work immediately. I specially posted a photo on twists for those who do not have the ability to solder the connections with a soldering iron. For reliability and safety, you still need to solder the twists and cover the bare wires and a resistor with electrical tape.

Lighting circuit of the switch on the LED and the capacitor.

To increase the efficiency of the backlight in the switch, you can install an additional capacitor in the electrical circuit, while reducing the value of the resistor R1 to 100 ohms.

This circuit differs from the above by using a capacitor C1 as a current-limiting element instead of a resistor. R1 here performs the function of limiting the capacitor charging current. Resistance R1 can be used from 100 to 500 Ohm with power from 0.25 W. Instead of a simple diode VD1, you can install an LED, the same as VD2. The efficiency of the circuit will not change, and both LEDs will shine at once with the same brightness.

The advantage of the circuit with a capacitor is low power consumption, about 0.05 kWh per month. The disadvantages of the circuit are the same as those presented above and, in addition, large overall dimensions.

Illumination circuit of the switch on a neon lamp (neon)

The lighting circuit of the switch on a neon lamp (neon) is devoid of the drawbacks inherent in the above-presented LED lighting circuits. This switch illumination scheme is suitable for chandelier switches and any other types of lamps, with both incandescent bulbs and energy-saving fluorescent and LED lamps installed in them.

When the switch is open, current flows through the resistance R1, the HG1 discharge lamp and it lights up. R1 of any type with power more than 0.25 W, nominal from 0.5 to 1.0 MΩ.

In the photo you can see the assembled circuit of the switch illumination, which cannot be simpler. It is enough to turn on the resistor in series with a neon lamp of any type and the circuit is ready.

Where to get a neon light.

Neon discharge lamps (neons) are presented in a wide range and you can use any available one. Notice that on the left in the photo there is a gas-discharge lamp with a 200 kΩ resistor taken out of a broken switch of the computer extension cord, which is also called the Pilot. It can be successfully installed in any switch without the additional hassle of finding accessories. The same light bulbs with a resistor are installed in electric kettles and other electrical appliances to indicate the on state. In the center of the photo there was unexpectedly MTX-90 Small-Size Thyratron (triode) with Cold Cathode. To be fair, I will say that the MTX-90 thyratron has been shining in my sconce for more than a dozen years.

Neon bulbs (neons) surround us almost everywhere. Are you surprised? All the old fluorescent lights use a starter, this is a real neon bulb housed in a cylindrical body. To remove it from the luminaire body, you need to turn the cylinder slightly counterclockwise. There are as many starters as there are fluorescent lamps in the lamp. In the starter, a capacitor is still connected in parallel to the neon light; it serves to suppress interference and is not needed in the manufacture of the indicator.

If the starter is taken from an old lamp, before using the neon bulb, do not be too lazy to check it. It is necessary to connect the light bulb according to the above scheme before installation. It is better to take neon from a new starter, since in old glass of the bulb of a light bulb from the inside, as a rule, is covered with a dark coating and the glow will be less visible. The light from the starter can be successfully used when making the phase indicator on your own.

A ready-made lighting kit for installation in a wall switch can be taken from a faulty modern electric kettle. As a rule, most models have a water heating indicator. The indicator is a neon lamp, with which a current-limiting resistor is connected in series and this circuit is connected in parallel to the heating element. If a faulty electric kettle is lying around in your household, then a neon light bulb with a resistor can be removed from it and installed in the switch.

The photo shows three neon lights from electric kettles. As you can see, they shine quite brightly, so in the dark they will be visible in the switch from a long distance.

If you look closely at the insulating tubes put on the places where the neon lamp leads to the wires, you will notice a thickening on one of the tubes. There is a current-limiting resistor in this place. If you cut the tube lengthwise, a picture will open, as in this photo.

Step-by-step instructions for installing into the backlight switch.

Turn off the power supply when working on the switch!

Neon bulbs come with and without a base, where the terminals come directly from the glass bulb. Therefore, the method of their installation is somewhat different.

Installing a neon bulb with pigtails in the switch.

As a rule, the length of the leads of a neon lamp (neon) or LED is not enough for direct connection to the switch terminals and therefore they must be extended with a piece of copper wire. For these purposes, both single-core and stranded wire of any section are suitable. It is best to solder the wire to the lead.

Before soldering, the terminals of the neon lamp and the ends of the conductor must be cleaned of oxides and tinned with a soldering iron with solder. Then adhere to a length of at least 5 mm and solder.

Then the place of soldering and the output of the neon lamp must be insulated by putting an insulating tube on them. You can simply wind a couple of turns of duct tape.

For the convenience of soldering, the end of the soldered conductor is formed into a ring using round-nose pliers and fixed to the switch terminal.

Wall switch keys or covers are usually made of white plastic and light from a neon (neon) or LED light will pass through them well. It is enough to make the switch key visible in the dark. Therefore, it is not necessary to drill a hole in the switch against the backlight installation location.

An insulating tube is also put on the soldered resistor or insulated with insulating tape. The end of the terminal is formed into a ring and attached to the second terminal of the switch.

The switch illumination circuit is mounted, the switch is connected to the wiring, it remains only to install the key and the work can be considered complete.

Installation of a neon lamp with a base in the switch.

It is impractical to use a lamp holder, since the service life of a neon lamp (neon) is longer than the service life of the switch, and there is little space in the box. Therefore, it is more advisable to attach the base to the circuit using soldering.

To do this, you need to remove the insulation from the wires, tin the bare ends and make small loops. Then solder to the soldering points of the light bulb terminals on the base.

A resistor is soldered to the wire extending from the central contact of the base at a distance of 2-3 cm. The terminals of the resistor must be shortened and made at the ends of the loop for the wire. A wire is also soldered to the second terminal of the resistor.

The threaded part of the base and the resistor must be insulated. This can be done using heat shrink tubing, insulating tape, or the method I suggest.

Many good polyvinyl chloride (PVC) tubing, which is often used to insulate wires. To prevent a piece of tube (cambric) from slipping, the inner diameters should be slightly less than the insulated solder. There are always difficulties in finding a suitable diameter cambric.

But if the cambric is held for 15 minutes in acetone, then it becomes elastic and can be easily put on a part that exceeds its inner diameter by one and a half times. So I isolated light bulbs in the distant past in a homemade Christmas garland.

After the acetone has evaporated, the cambric returns to its original size and tightly fits the lamp base. It is no longer possible to remove the cambric, unless it is re-soaked with acetone. This method of insulation is analogous to a heat-shrinkable tube, only heating is not required.

After carrying out preparatory work, the backlight is placed in the switch box and connected to its contacts.

If the resistance of the resistor turned out to be of higher power, and there is not enough space for its installation, or there is no such at hand, then you can replace it with several resistors of lower power, connecting them in series or in parallel.

When resistors of the same resistance are connected in series, the power dissipated by one resistor will be equal to the calculated power divided by the number of resistors, and their value will decrease and will be equal to the calculated value divided by the number of resistors. For example, the calculation requires a 1 watt 100 kΩ resistor. 1 kΩ \u003d 1000 ohms. This resistor can be replaced with two 0.5 watt 50 kΩ resistors in series.

When resistors of the same resistance are connected in parallel, the power is calculated as when connected in series, and the value of each resistor must be equal to the calculated value multiplied by the number of resistors connected in parallel. For example, to replace one 100K resistor with three, the resistance of each must be 300K.

When installing the circuit, connect the resistor (capacitor) only to the phase conductor of the switch. Since the currents flowing through the circuit elements do not exceed several milliamperes, there are no special requirements for the quality of contacts. If the box with the switch, into which the backlight will be mounted, is metal, then it is necessary to exclude the possibility of touching the conductive conductors of its walls.

It is impossible to spoil anything when installing the backlight in a wall switch, as the luminaire itself is a current limiter. The worst that can happen is the failure of the mounted elements when gross mistakes are made. For example, turn on the LED without a current-limiting resistor, or mistakenly take the resistor value instead of 100 kOhm to take 100 Ohm.

Calculator for calculation.

parameters of the current-limiting resistor.

When self-installing in a backlight switch on an LED or on a neon lamp, it is necessary to determine the value and power of the current-limiting resistance. The calculation can be performed using the formulas, but it is much more convenient to calculate the resistor parameters using a special calculator. It is enough to enter the parameters and get the finished result. The calculator can also be useful for selecting a resistor in a factory-made backlit switch in the event of a resistor failure.

In this article, we will analyze in detail troubleshooting methods and electric kettle repair with common malfunctionslike " does not boil" or " does not turn on". Most teapots in the price category up to 3 - 5 thousand rubles are made, most likely, in China. Therefore, their reliability, as a rule, is at the appropriate level.

The electric kettle, the repair of which will be described below in the article, worked for about 11 months and was out of order. Often people think that if the kettle does not turn on, so burned out heating element (heating element) and the kettle can be thrown away, especially if it is still disk. Spiral heating element it could still be replaced if the reason lay in a faulty heating element, but now such kettles are quite rare.

So, if your kettle suddenly stopped turning on and the warranty period for its operation has ended, then you can safely proceed to diagnosing the malfunction of the electric kettle. Electric kettle malfunctions are different, we will consider here purely electrical faults, that is, we do not consider here mechanical repair of a broken part of the kettle structure, all kinds of water leaks, and similar non-electrical faults.

What do you need to repair an electric kettle?

We need the following tools: a Phillips or flat screwdriver (depending on the type of screws) and a multimeter (tester).

Let's start repairing the electric kettle

The first step is to make sure that the voltage in the household electrical network is 220 volts, really. It is silly and trite at first glance, but this is one of the troubleshooting algorithms. How to determine. It is enough to plug another electrical device into the outlet and check the voltage in the outlet. This is not particularly difficult.
Next, you need to ring the stand from the electric kettle using the tester. We take the tester and ring the circuit in turn from the electrical plug and the socket on the stand from the kettle. On the stand in the socket, you may have 3 conductors, the third is ground, in my case this protective ground electrically connects the kettle body and the side (ground) terminal on the Euro plug. We look at the presence of a circuit using a multimeter and the absence of signs of carbon deposits on the contacts. If the circuit is not broken in the stand (which is a rarity) and there is no carbon deposits, you can proceed to disassemble the electric kettle. Although it would be more correct to immediately measure the resistance on the kettle itself, I believe that the operation performed will not be superfluous and will not take much of your time.

If everything is in order with the stand for the electric kettle, then, therefore, malfunction is covered in the teapot itself... Here it is appropriate to ring the chain again from the side of the kettle without disassembling it, although it was possible to immediately start dialing from the kettle itself. We take a multimeter and measure the resistance of current-carrying contacts. If the device (multimeter) shows infinity, in other words, an open circuit, proceed to disassembling the kettle.

We disassemble the electric kettle

We turn off the three screws on the bottom cover. There may be 6 self-tapping screws here, it all depends on the specific model of the teapot.

After disassembling the kettle, immediately check, does it work Heating element, for this we measure its resistance using a tester (multimeter). The multimeter shows a value of 172 Ohm, this is in my case, you may have other values, which tells us about serviceability Heating element... If you have endless resistance then you're out of luck Heating element burned out and out of order. Disk heating element cannot be replaced, the spiral heating element can still be changed, it is found on sale. So the heating element is working properly, let's move on.

Let's try to figure out now what is going where. Two red wires parallel to the heating element, this is the power supply to the neon lamp, which signals the inclusion of the kettle. This whole circuit (white wires) goes into the handle of the kettle, where there is a switch and a thermostat at the same time. Since the heating element, as we have seen above, is serviceable, and the kettle itself did not turn on, then with a high degree of probability unjust this same electric kettle switch... In order to get to the switch, you need to disassemble the handle of the electric kettle.

At the handle of the kettle, you must remove the cover, which is attached to the self-tapping screw and latches. Behind this overlay is located switch or in another way it is called thermostat for electric kettle.

Serves to turn the kettle on and off when it boils. Due to the fact that a rather large current flows through these contacts (10A or 2000 W), then contacts here most often get burned... It is enough to ring it with a tester to check whether the switch is working properly or not.

The switch in our case is faulty, let's try to carefully disassemble it to get to the contacts. To do this, move the upper part of the switch to the left and lift it up. Remove the top of the switch and set it aside.

Having fully disassembled switch for kettle, we see carbon deposits on contacts... In the photo, the bottom contact is raised up for clarity.

Carbon deposits on the contacts of the electric kettle switch, the most common malfunction encountered when repair of electric kettles... For removing carbon deposits on contacts switch, you need to clean the contacts with a file or a female nail file. After stripping, you need to immediately ring the circuit with a tester, if the circuit appears to assemble the switch and the kettle in the reverse order.

Sometimes contacts in the switch for the kettle completely burn out, in this case you can try buy a thermostat for a kettle on the Internet, the price is about 200 rubles (excluding shipping costs). If I was buying a thermostat for a kettle, then I would buy one, with free shipping besides.

If you do not understand something in the article, you can watch the whole process of repairing an electric kettle with your own hands in the following video:

LED lighting under the cupboards in the kitchen is ergonomic, beautiful and modern. In this article, we will talk about how to choose the right system elements, what connection schemes are, how to install the tape as an independent element and in a special box (profile).

The choice of LED strip for lighting under cabinets is an interesting, effective and not too difficult decision for a home craftsman. Such additional lighting, undoubtedly, also fulfills aesthetic tasks - it highlights separate functional areas, accentuates decorative elements with color, sets a fashionable, modern tone for kitchen design.

The choice of LED strip

An important characteristic of the LED strip for installation under cabinets in the kitchen is its resistance to water vapor. Insufficient moisture protection can lead to a short circuit, and, therefore, to the risk of fire. When buying a tape, you need to pay attention to the degree of protection of the shell, which is marked with a two-digit number after the Latin letters IP. The first number indicates protection against dust and dirt, mechanical damage. The second number is moisture protection. The security of a device or device is assessed on a scale from 0 to 9 for both parameters.

For tightness (moisture and dust resistance), LED lamps and strips can be marked:

IP33 - open type of conductor, not recommended for kitchens;
IP65 - one-sided tightness of the side on which the electronic elements are located, it is allowed for installation in a humid environment of the kitchen space;
IP67, IP68 - double-sided, complete tape tightness - recommended for installation in the kitchen.

If the selected lamp or LED strip has insufficient security, it is necessary to use a protective cover or special profiles in order to provide an adequate level of security.

In order for the LED strip to give enough light, it is important to choose the right power density, which is characterized by the number of LEDs per running meter. Each type of tape can have a different number of LEDs. This can be determined both visually and by looking at the characteristics of the product.

For decorative purposes, 30 or 60 LEDs per meter are usually sufficient. To fully illuminate the work surface, it is better to choose a tape with 120 or 240 diodes.

When calculating the illumination, you need to take into account the power consumed by the tape, remembering that, compared to incandescent lamps, the luminous flux of LEDs is about 5 times higher.

Table. Calculation of belt power

The numbers in the tape marking indicate the size of one LED:

SMD-3528 - diodes with dimensions 3.5x2.8 mm;
SMD-5050 - diodes measuring 5.0x5.0 mm.

For monochrome tapes with the specified characteristics, the luminous flux, measured in lumens and which is another characteristic of LEDs, will be the maximum. For polychrome RGB strips, the color of which is set depending on the settings of the regulator or control controller, the total number of crystals in each diode corresponds to a combination of basic colors that do not turn on simultaneously. Consequently, when only part of the crystals that give a certain color are working, the luminous flux will be lower.

The colors of monochrome diodes with their own crystal glow are:

red;
orange;
yellow;
green;
blue;
purple.

The color of monochrome diodes is characterized by a narrow emission spectrum, which should be taken into account when choosing a backlight. The color of objects and, most importantly, products is significantly distorted; they may look different from under natural light or illuminated by fluorescent lamps.

The white monochrome LED is a semiconductor that emits ultraviolet light with a phosphor coating. The principle of operation is similar to the fluorescent lamps familiar to most. The hue can also be from "warm" to "cold" and is indicated in the form of the corresponding glow temperature, measured in Kelvin, as in the usual LED lamps.

The color of the surface of the printed circuit board on which the LEDs are located is usually white, but other colors can be chosen: brown, yellow, black, which will look better on furniture when installed open. For ease of installation, the tape is equipped with an adhesive tape on the back.

Choice of power supply and additional devices

You cannot connect the LED strip to a household outlet - it will immediately burn out. It is designed to operate at a constant current with a voltage of 24 or 12 V, obtained through a suitable pulse converter (power supply). The power of the device must correspond to the total power consumption of all connected tapes. For example, you need to connect three bobbins of 5 m SMD-5050, with a power of 7.2 W / r. m. The total capacity is:

5 m 7.2 W / linear m \u003d 36 W

The power supply is chosen with a margin of 20%, therefore, you will need a device with a power of at least 45 watts.

The block design can be different:

Sealed, compact unit in a plastic case.
Sealed power supply in an aluminum case. Expensive, climate-resistant, often used in outdoor, street lighting.
Open unit in perforated housing. The most dimensional, inexpensive, requires additional protection from direct moisture penetration. There are powerful models - one block is enough for the entire backlight.
Power supply unit. Low power, up to 60 W, does not require installation. Multiple tapes will require separate power supplies.

The kitchen power supply must be moisture resistant or installed in a location protected from moisture. It is desirable that the driver contains overvoltage protection to prolong the life of the LEDs.

It is not recommended to connect LED strips in series, otherwise the wear will be high and the luminosity will be uneven. When connecting several tapes, it is correct to use an amplifier that provides uniform current supply to various sections of the electrical circuit.

If desired, the backlight can be connected via a dimmer - a device that smoothly reduces the power and luminosity of lighting devices. In this way, the backlight can be maintained in "work" and "rest" modes.

PWM controllers are used to control the LED strip, capable of providing the correct ripple current shape to adjust the brightness of the LEDs

Amplifiers and dimmers are matched to the backlight system by current strength.

LED backlight connection diagrams

Basic rules for connecting backlighting elements into the circuit and installation:

respect the polarity;
supply power through a 12 or 24 V power supply unit in accordance with the type of tape and marking, placing it as close as possible to the tape (maximum distance - 10 m);
the tape should not be sharply bent, twisted. It is better to cut and complete the corner by soldering (with care, then insulating the conductive tracks with a heat shrink tube) or a special connector. Soldering, according to the experts, provides contact without electrical losses;
the fewer connections and the thicker the cross-section of the wire, the less electric current losses;
it is better to mount a high-power tape in a profile (box);
connect tape segments longer than 5 m only in parallel;
place the power supply in a ventilated place to protect it from overheating.

The places where the LED strip can be cut are usually shown on the product itself.

Below are the basic connection diagrams for monochrome and RGB tapes.

Diagram of direct connection of the LED strip. Several tapes are connected in parallel to one current source

Connecting the LED strip using a dimmer to adjust the brightness

Several LED strips switched on using a dimmer or PWM controller must be connected using an amplifier

Connection diagram for RGB LED strips

RGB tapes are connected to the controller with four wires, three of which are responsible for one of the colors, the fourth is common. Marking: R - red (red), G - green (green), B - blue (blue). The "V-plus" wire is common. The easiest way to connect is with a connector, but you can also gently solder it. For autonomous connection of the controller and amplifier, sometimes two power supplies are used in the connection scheme.

Tools and materials for mounting LED strips

For self-installation of the LED strip under kitchen cabinets, you will need:

connection of elements can be done in various ways, and you will need: a soldering iron, solder, rosin and heat shrink tubing, or lugs for wires and crimping for lugs, or connectors;
scissors;
insulating tape, double-sided tape, fasteners;
a tool for cutting holes in furniture for laying wires, for example, a jigsaw;
selected LED strips;
power supply unit and other elements of the electrical circuit, if necessary - dimmer, amplifiers, controller;
box (profile) - when performing the appropriate installation;
cable.

It is important to understand that LEDs still generate heat when they light up. It is directed to the substrate, the base of the diode. In order to prevent overheating of semiconductors, which significantly reduces their service life, it is advisable to glue the tape to a special aluminum profile or a substrate with high thermal conductivity.

Choice of cable cross-section

As a rule, a cable with a cross section of 0.5-2.5 mm 2 is used to install the backlight in the kitchen.

I - current strength, I \u003d P / U or I \u003d U / R (P - power, U - voltage, R - resistance);
ρ - resistivity, for copper cable ρ \u003d 0.0175 Ohm · mm 2 / m;
L is the cable length;
ΔU is the maximum allowable voltage drop between the power supply unit (PSU) and the load (tapes), ΔU \u003d U PSU -UΣ tapes, if the PSU voltage is 12 V and tapes - 12 V, then ΔU is taken in 5-10%, i.e. . 0.6-1.2 V.

The cable cross-section also depends on the length of the wiring, the longer the wire, the less power will be supplied to the light source, which can be seen from the following table:

Length of wires, m	Power allocated to the load, W
	Wire section
	1.5 mm 2	2.5 mm 2	4 mm 2	6 mm 2
0	50,0	50,0	50,0	50
2	45,5	47,2	48,2	48,8
4	41,5	44,6	46,5	47,7
6	38,1	42,3	44,9	46,5
8	35,0	40,1	43,4	45,5
10	32,4	38,1	42,0	44,4

Installation of LED strip under kitchen cabinets

A well-conducted installation is based on thoughtful planning of how to choose, where and which circuit elements to place.

The LED gives a directed beam of light, most often it is a 120 ° sector strictly along the central axis of the semiconductor. Less common are 90 °, 60 ° and 30 ° options. By fixing the tape at the bottom of the hanging cabinet and stepping back from the wall, a very clear strip is formed on the vertical surface, moreover, wavy between light and shadow, which can adversely affect the overall picture.

It is necessary to distribute the light source so that the dividing strip of light and shadow from the backlight falls on a natural boundary, for example, between the edging of the work surface and the wall cladding. In the simplest case, the tape is mounted right next to the wall in order to illuminate it completely. By choosing different options, it is possible to work with the visual "depth" of the work surface to the advantage of the overall design.

Tape with diodes, which have a narrow lighting sector, can be fixed at the very edge under the cabinet so that the wall is not illuminated at all. A universal way to distribute light is to use aluminum profiles with light-diffusing protective films. Even with the height of the profile sides, if desired, you can form the required shape of the illumination spot.

The installation itself, with some skill in working with the instrument, is not very difficult.

We pass the cable to the junction, as inconspicuously as possible, drilling a small diameter hole on the back of the cabinet.
The low wattage LED strip can be mounted directly to the prepared and grease-free surface of the lower part of kitchen cabinets. The tapes of measured length, having an adhesive layer, are simply applied to the selected place and pressed, removing the protective film immediately before installation. If there is no such layer, you will need double-sided tape. To mask the tape, you can shield it with a profile to match the cabinet.
We fix the power supply, we do the electrical wiring, carefully fixing the wires with clips or double-sided tape.
We connect all the elements in the circuit, be sure to check the wiring for a short circuit between the supply wires with a tester, and only then connect to the network. The backlight is ready.

If, due to increased power or for aesthetic reasons, it is planned to install the tape in a profile, then at first it is easier to lay the LED strip in the profile and connect the power leads. After that, using double-sided tape, the profile is fixed to the cabinets. You will have to change the sequence only if the profile is fastened with self-tapping screws screwed in from its inner side.

In the next video, the same wizard as in the previous video gives advice on installing the tape in a box.

Often there is such an unpleasant situation as the failure of the kettle, and at the most inopportune moment. It is possible to take a failed electrical appliance for repair, but it will take time. Also, there may not be free masters and you will have to do even longer without a kettle. Or, perhaps, the cause of the failure could be a minor easily fixable malfunction - then it would be a pity for the funds thrown out for repairs.

In general, why not try to carry out the repair yourself, while saving time and money? In this article, we will provide recommendations that will help determine the malfunction of the electric kettle and, if possible, eliminate it.

Electric circuit and principle of operation of the electric kettle

Most electric kettles, regardless of their cost, have a similar design. For clarity, we present a typical electric kettle diagram:

In order to find a malfunction of an electric kettle, you must understand the principle of its operation. We will briefly describe the principle of operation according to the above diagram, clearly showing all the elements of the diagram. Electricity from the household network flows through the plug and wire to the stand.

Further, the current flows from the stand to the kettle through a special contact part. Directly in the kettle, the grounding conductor is connected to the metal parts of the kettle. Neutral and phase conductors in a special unit are brought out to terminals 1 and 2 (see diagram).

In the same unit there is a thermal protection - a thermal relay. The electrical diagram shows that the thermal relay is in the break in the phase conductor.

Thermal protection serves to protect the kettle from damage if the kettle is turned on without water, or if the kettle lid is open and it works for a long time without turning off automatically. In normal operation, the thermal relay contact is closed. It opens in case of excessive overheating for the above reasons.

The kettle power button allows you to manually turn on and off the kettle, it has a bimetallic plate, which, when a certain temperature is reached, affects the disabling of the button - that is, when the water boils, this button automatically turns off the electric kettle.

In parallel to the conclusions of the heating element of the kettle, an indicator lamp or illumination is connected, depending on the design features of the electric kettle. It can be a regular lamp or LED backlight connected via a power driver.

So, let's start troubleshooting. First of all, you need to make sure that the cause of the kettle's inoperability was not the activation of the above thermal protection. If there was a trigger, then it is necessary to wait until the protection returns to its original state - that is, until the contacts close. If the protection was not triggered, go to troubleshooting.

Do not rush to disassemble the kettle. Very often, the reason why the kettle does not heat up is the lack of contact between the contact elements of the kettle and the stand, or a breakdown in the contact in the supply wire and plug.

Unscrew the screws on the stand and remove the cover. We take a multimeter and check the integrity of the cord from the plug to the contacts. In inexpensive electric kettles, the manufacturer, in order to save money, puts a cord with a cross section that is lower than the permissible for the electric kettle load.

For example, for a kettle with a power of 2 kW, a supply wire with a cross section of 0.75 sq. mm, but in fact there may be an even smaller section. During the operation of the electric kettle, such a wire heats up, which ultimately can lead to its damage or burnout at the point of connection to the plug.

If the continuity has shown a wire breakage, then it is necessary to purchase a new wire with a larger section, which corresponds to the kettle's load. For example, for a 2 kW kettle, a wire with a cross section of 1-1.5 sq. mm. You also need to purchase a new plug - a 16 A euro plug will do.

Regardless of whether this is the reason why the kettle is not working at the moment, you should clean the contacts from carbon deposits and bend them a little, ensuring greater rigidity of contact with the electric kettle.

You should put the stand on the kettle, while paying attention to the contacts - they should bend when installing the kettle on the stand. If the contact does not press, then it is loose and needs to be slightly bent up. It is impossible to bend the contacts strongly, so as not to displace them.

We assemble the stand and check the efficiency of the electric kettle. If the kettle still does not work, then go directly to troubleshooting inside the kettle.

Checking the performance of the electric kettle heating element

A situation is possible when the indicator lamp (backlight) of the kettle is on, but the kettle itself does not heat up. In this case, there are two reasons - the heating element has burned out or the contact at the place of connection to the heating element is broken. Remove the teapot lid by unscrewing a few screws. Certain types of teapots, including the one discussed in this article, in addition to screws, have special grooves that hold the teapot lid.

Without experience in opening electrical appliances, you can damage the electric kettle by adding another one to the existing malfunction. To remove the cover, bend it inward. By inserting screwdrivers into the existing holes - first into holes 1 and 2, then into holes 3 and 4. Bending the cover inward, the slots for fixing the cover come out and it is removed.

We return to troubleshooting. We check the integrity of the chains inside the kettle. Next, we check the integrity of the heating element by moving the insulation to access the terminals. We set the multimeter in the resistance measurement mode to the smallest limit - in this case 200 Ohm and measure the resistance of the heating element.

The device showed a resistance of 24.1 ohms, which indicates the health of the heating element. A burnt out heating element shows a very high resistance - the multimeter will show several megohms. You can also check the heating element with a multimeter in the dial mode.

With a working heating element, the device will show a small value of the voltage drop, and if the heating element is faulty, then the device will show a break - one.

If it becomes necessary to remove the terminals, then you should not tear them off, as they often do out of ignorance. A broken terminal, when put back on, will not provide normal contact and the next time it will cause the kettle to fail.

The terminals can be easily removed by pushing lightly with a sharp object into the hole, while simultaneously pulling it off. If the terminal has insulation, it must be moved before removing the terminal.

A normally removed terminal is also easy to put back on. But in any case, it is necessary to check the reliability of the contact, and if the terminal is not tight enough, then it should be removed and slightly tightened with pliers.

If the check showed that the heating element is faulty, then in this case it is necessary to think about whether it is advisable to purchase a new heating element. If the kettle is inexpensive, then installing a new heating element will cost as much as a new kettle.

If the heating element is serviceable, but the kettle does not heat, then the integrity of other circuits should be checked. It is necessary to check if voltage is supplied from the contact part of the kettle to terminals 1 and 2.

We call with a multimeter as shown in the photo. If one contact rings, and the other does not, then this indicates that the thermal relay contact, which was mentioned at the beginning of the article, is open. There are cases of spontaneous opening of protection contacts.

If there were no signs of overheating, the kettle did not turn on without water, but the thermal protection contact is open, then this indicates a malfunction of this element. You can try to bend the bimetallic plate (or plates - depending on the design of the electric kettle), ensuring that the protection contact closes.

If the malfunction cannot be eliminated, then it is recommended to completely replace this unit. It is also possible to turn on the circuit directly, without thermal protection, by forcibly closing the contacts in this node. But it should be remembered about the consequences of the lack of thermal protection.

If the kettle is turned on without water and there is no protection, the heating element will heat up until it burns out. In this case, the kettle may catch fire. To avoid negative consequences, you should not operate the electric kettle without a thermostat.

Another reason for the inoperability of the electric kettle may be a breakdown of the kettle power button. The inoperability of the button is determined by dialing between terminal 1 of the output of the heating element 3 (see diagram).

If, when the button is on, the device shows an open circuit between contacts 1 and 3, then this indicates that the button is faulty or the integrity of the contact at the point of connection to the button is broken. It is necessary to open a part of the kettle body on the handle, gain access to the button and, depending on the malfunction, restore the integrity of the contact or replace the button.

There are also certain types of electric kettles with built-in electronic devices that provide timer functions, temperature control of water heating. If such a kettle malfunctions, you can check the nodes discussed in this article - heating elements, contacts, connecting conductors. But if the cause of its malfunction is the failure of electronic components, then to eliminate such a malfunction, you need to have the appropriate skills and qualifications - therefore, it is better to hand over such a kettle to an experienced specialist for repair.

Repair of electric kettles in China

Guangdong products are well-known. China is rich in economic and other interesting areas that give tax and some other concessions to manufacturers. The United States is not enthusiastic about the conflict with the heirs of communism, who predicted the fate of Nietzsche a couple of centuries ago. Today we will see how to repair an electric kettle in China, made according to a standard design for a company that does not seek to reveal its true origin, with a probability of 95% being a representative of Eastern Europe, MB, Russian Federation. Let's see what our compatriots indulge in - the best examples of world household appliances pass the hands of the Guangdong workers.

China's GDP is ranked second. Japan is the third. Not bad, considering the state of the Land of the Rising Sun, which survived the Second World War. Feudal Japan became the world's largest electronics manufacturer.

Body, side panel when repairing an electric kettle

Below are photos that allow you to personally enjoy the views of the details of the simplest design. There will be links to images in the text. If you want - look, if you don't want to - scroll blindly. Disassembly begins with a lid. If you skip a step, you cannot remove the side panel that hides the LED plus switch. With the side panel on, it is more difficult to remove the bottom. Dilemma. Do the opposite, if you are looking for difficulties, then you can not remove the cover at all!

Cap. It is held by two ears with two pins. A plastic monolith, you are tortured to disassemble, installation is more difficult. The first photo shows the pins perfectly. There are two screws on the sides, unscrew immediately, remove the side panel. Everything is neat inside - plus the models, we often find a whole mess of wires. We pass to the bottom.

Around the connector, where the grounding terminal is provided (the structure is suspended in the air), there are three screws. We unscrew, we are convinced: the bottom hesitates to remove. There are six plastic teeth along the perimeter that fit into six holes in the body. So that it does not accidentally fall apart, worn out by exploitation, there is a guide on the sides of each tooth. Alternately, the teeth will have to be snapped off with a screwdriver separately (see the photo below), break - break the bottom, removing. They took a picture of each tooth, illustrating what was said. We put the dismantled parts aside, look at the switch.

Switch, temperature sensor: the point of view of an electric kettle repairer

The photo shows from the bottom position. Shiny circle with a cut - mechanical sensor. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, seizing the moment, the electric kettle turns off. The water boils, an increased amount of steam begins to be released. A small hole in the case, located under the switch, is covered by a circular loose plastic plug (see photo). The plate is installed above the gate of the couple. Boiling begins, the temperature rises sharply. After a moment, you can hear a click. The tongue of the plate, made up of a pair of metals, bends up sharply. It looks like a bimetallic relay.

Now the switch. Not so easy. The part is devoid of visible joints, except for the metal bracket shown in the photo on the side. The upper movable part is attached to it. When we turn on the kettle, the switch nose rests against the tongue of the round plate with a cutout, the bracket is compressed. Due to the design, the parts retain their initial position indefinitely. Click! The slightest jerk releases the bracket that returns the switch to its original position.

Let's examine the bottom of the case. Here are:

circular connector;
rolled spiral;
lED divider resistor with a nominal value of 14 kOhm.

While the switch is dormant, the LED glows blue. Full voltage 230 volts applied. The photo shows available: the resistor was burnt, the contacts were inserted into the clamping terminals, one could not stand the inspection. I had to solder. The divider resistor is connected in parallel with the rolled heater. The electric kettle turns on - the glow changes to orange. Dual LED (school teachers silent?), Unlike typical use, both shades work simultaneously while the water is boiling. The combination of electromagnetic waves of different shades gives orange. It is difficult to list the shades that form a superposition (the repairman is deeply indifferent).

Remove the resistor, or it will burn out - nothing bad will happen. It's just that the LED will stop changing its hue, tracking changes in the switch position. The color is irrespective of the water temperature. It is easy to see that there is no thermal fuse. We believe that there is simply no protection. Those interested can equip a metal case with a part, next to the ring connector. Provide protection against empty switching. This kettle can cause fire without protection. We recommend adding a thermal fuse to the device. Place it not somewhere in the center, around the perimeter of the heating element, increasing reliability.

The resistance of the heating element is 30 ohms. The photo shows the power values \u200b\u200bon a metal surface through a fraction of 220 and 240 V. Enough to understand what can break. The device of an electric kettle is simple, repairs will even pull a kettle, but ... It was easy to remove the lid, but put it back! We hope the readers will solve the issue on their own, we find it difficult to answer. But we will show you how to disassemble the switch for those who want to clean the contacts. The distance of the gap is scanty, steam is in the air. Just look at the two screws in the picture: they are covered with rust, although the electric kettle has not been properly used.

We believe that six months later, you will need to refresh your contacts. Let's analyze the switch:

Place your finger on the plastic ear that secures the switch to the case.
Use your thumb to push the button on the opposite side.
Gently squeeze your fingers, the retaining bracket will pop out. Protect more than the apple of your eye, otherwise the electric kettle will only have to be thrown away.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Hook the bracket with the front of the button, rest it against the base, gently push the part into place without any extra effort. The bimetallic plate can be easily removed with a knife, screwdriver. Self-repair of electric kettles consists of such trifles, otherwise it will not take long to break the lid by putting it on! Contacts are made of bronze, can be seen in the photo. You can't clean it with alcohol, gasoline, there is plastic nearby. We suppose we'll have to get hold of acetic acid, the switch is waiting in line.

We'll have to disconnect the terminals. The Saturn in question is not easy. The photo shows a small hole in the terminal, which corresponds to the spike of the second half. If you press there with an awl, the connection is easily disassembled. Otherwise ... I can't tear one from the other. The process is aggravated: the joints are protected by a heat-shrinkable cambric, which is poorly heated by a hairdryer. It crumbles easily, barely holds, but ... does not come off. Therefore, if necessary, cut, disassemble the unit. Clamping terminals are disposable. The resistor wire jumped out, it was not possible to squeeze it back, it is not convenient. I had to solder.

Weld the plastic with a soldering iron. Along the way, using the necessary additives (polyethylene). Choose a material that is compatible with the food industry. Use heat-resistant glue, harmless to humans.

Conclusion on the repair of an electric kettle

As the readers understood, this is one of the cheap models of Chinese teapots, made by order of a certain company. The maintainability of the product is zero. Difficult to disassemble, even harder to assemble. Poking around, it is easy to spoil the presentation, functionality. Donets dressed quite simply, with considerable effort, threatening clicks. The lid caused great difficulty. Skillful use of a hair dryer will help. With only a screwdriver, disassembly will be difficult.

We also recommend evaluating the assembly in the store. How difficult it will be to disassemble the device in order to repair the electric kettle with your own hands. If the product is disposable, it is not too happy, and if it is also dangerous ... no comment.

We hope that after such a detailed review, readers will be able to repair Tefal electric kettles and repair the Scarlet electric kettle. After all, most of the products are made in China. We want to say goodbye, see the pictures, evaluate, study. If the bimetallic plate is inserted in the wrong direction, the electric kettle will stop turning off when it boils! Although the click is audible.

The main surprise

Boiled water causes allergic reactions. It is difficult to name the percentage of people affected by the disease. Kashpirovsky considers half of the planet an aggravated reaction. Heals almost 100% of those who apply. Some (impudent) are sent back. Let them try local hospitals.

The regulation of the immune system is poorly understood by science. A sane person who has known Quincke's edema will be careful not to reject the slightest possibility of cure.