Laying a stove for the home. Brick stoves for home drawings with orders

Brick has been around for many centuries. Houses were built from it in different countries and even parts of the world, coming up with many different methods and types of brickwork. And although there are many secrets and features in the technology itself, you can figure it all out. First, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic provisions and terminology, without which it will be impossible to understand what we are talking about. Then, choose a masonry technique and type of dressing, and then begin the practical development of skills. Do-it-yourself brickwork can be done at least as well as that of professionals. The only thing in which an amateur will definitely be inferior is speed. All other parameters, subject to technology, will certainly be no worse.

Basic terms

Let's start with general concepts. Everyone knows exactly what a brick looks like, and that it is ceramic and silicate, too. But not many people know how the edges of this material are correctly called. And in the description of masonry technology they appear very often.

Name of brick faces: pastel, spoon, poke

The largest face is called " pastel", middle - side - " spoons", and the smallest - " poke«.

The dimensions of the brick are, in principle, standardized (250 * 125 * 66 mm - single and 250 * 125 * 88 mm - one and a half), but the technology of its production is such that they can differ significantly from different manufacturers: by 2-3 mm in each edges, and this is quite a significant difference, considering the number of pieces in one row. Therefore, before ordering a batch, it is advisable to measure samples from several firings in order to determine how accurately the technology is maintained.

It is also important to pay attention to the geometry: the edges must be positioned strictly at 90°. Otherwise, bursting loads will occur and the wall may crumble.

Types of masonry

Brick walls can serve different roles. In some cases it is only finishing, in some it is partitions, and sometimes it is load-bearing walls. Based on the purpose, as well as the required thermal conductivity of the walls, the type of brickwork is selected:

• Half a brick. Most often this is how cladding is done. The thickness of such a wall is 125 mm. To save money, you can put the material on a spoon, then you will get a wall the size of a quarter of a brick. When installing these (in 1/2 or 1/4), a reinforcing mesh is laid in every 4-5 rows. It is necessary to increase the rigidity of the wall and create additional connections that increase the strength of the masonry.
• Into the brick. These can already be partitions or two load-bearing walls of small buildings. Wall thickness - 250 mm.
• One and a half, two and two and a half bricks are already load-bearing walls.

Types of brickwork: half a brick, one brick, one and a half and two bricks

Dressing and names of rows

Although a brick wall is made up of many small elements, it should work as a monolith. To provide increased strength, the seams, which are the weak point in this system, are made offset. Experts call this technique “bandaging.” It seems to connect different elements into a single whole, allowing the load to be redistributed over large surfaces.

Spoon and tie rows in brickwork

To ensure the necessary displacement of the seams, the bricks are placed in different ways:

• if they are turned to the front side by the smallest part - a poke, such a row is called tychkovy;
• if turned with the long side - spoon - a row is called spoon.

Moreover, the first one in the masonry - on the foundation - is the bonded one, which is also used to finish the masonry. Moreover, it is mandatory to use solid bricks.

Single row dressing

Alternating such rows gives a very good result. This method of ligation is called single-row or chain ligation. It is practiced on walls that are not planned to be finished: it looks neat. Using this system, both external and load-bearing walls can be built.

Wall masonry schemes

Examples of a single-row brick wall of 1.5 and 2 bricks are shown in the photo below.

Single-row dressing in the wall from 1.5 and 2 kripich

In the case of laying a wall with two bricks, two more terms appear. The two outer rows of spoons are called versts - outer mile directed towards the street inner mile- into the room. For them, they use smooth, good material, especially carefully selecting those that are directed outward. The space between them is called zabutka. Since this element is closed on all sides, you can use lower-grade material, for example, used.

Please note that this type of masonry also requires sawn bricks: half and three-quarter. The three-quarters in the diagram are crossed out crosswise, the halves are crossed out with one diagonal stripe. How to connect partitions to walls made using this technique is shown in the photo below.

Joining walls with single-row ligation

Corner schemes

Laying the corner in this case is very important. According to the method, the corners are first driven out, a cord is pulled between them, and then the wall is laid according to the diagram. But the corners are placed first; how evenly and correctly they are set determines how level the entire building will be. The scheme for laying a corner of 1 brick with a single-row dressing is located as follows. The laying begins with the installation of two 3/4 pieces, followed by whole ones.

One-brick corner with single-row dressing

See the video for the sequence of actions. Very detailed explanation with step-by-step demonstration of the procedure.

The same system, but in a wall of 1.5 bricks. In addition to whole pieces, 3/4 pieces and quarters are required. The spoon row alternates between the inner and outer miles.

Scheme: an angle of one and a half bricks with a single-row dressing

See the video to see how this scheme is put into practice.

When laying a corner of 2 bricks in the first row, the same two three-quarter pieces are required, as well as another 6 quarters or, as they say, checks. In the second, one 3/4 and two checks are already required.

Scheme: corner of two bricks with single-row dressing

Multi-row dressing

With multi-row dressing, several spoon rows - 6 (for a single brick) or 5 (for a one-and-a-half brick) - are interspersed with one bonded one. The first and last ones are also placed with pokes. This method is also suitable for laying external and internal walls. Only they are usually planned for insulation or finishing.

Wall masonry schemes

To prevent such a system from creating free-standing columns, the spoon rows inside are also tied up. To ensure displacement of the seams, crushed bricks are used.

Do-it-yourself brickwork: multi-row ligation scheme of 2 and 2.5 bricks

The joining of walls with this method also occurs with bandaging. This ensures increased strength of the junction of the walls. The diagrams are in the photo below.

Layout schemes for adjacent walls

Schemes for laying corners

And again about how to place corners, but with multi-row dressing. If the wall is one brick, the even and odd rows (except the first) are the same.

Scheme for laying a corner of 1 brick with multi-row dressing

You will see all this in the video.

If the wall is 1.5 bricks long, in the first and second rows with bonded bricks, but located either in the outer or in the inner verst. The third and fourth rows are exclusively placed on spoons.

Scheme for laying a corner of 1.5 bricks with multi-row ligation

The fifth row is placed similarly to the third, the sixth - to the fourth. Then the system is repeated. At times, not a multi-row system (with 5 spoon poisons) is required, but a three-row system. Then from the fifth row the clacking is repeated.

Mortar for brickwork

The brick is laid on a cement-sand mortar. Cement is used not lower than M400, sand is clean, gully. The proportions for the specified brand are 1:4 (for M500 - 1:5). Mixing is done manually or using a concrete mixer, but the order does not change.

First, the sand is sifted, a binder is added to it, everything is mixed in a dry state until a uniform color is achieved. Then add water. Its quantity is 0.4-0.6 parts, but it is determined by the plasticity of the solution. It is more convenient to work with plastic mortar than with rigid mortar, but when laying hollow bricks, in this case the consumption of mortar greatly increases: it fills the voids. In this case, it is more practical to make a rigid solution.

The brick laying technique depends on the consistency of the mortar.

To improve plasticity and more convenient work, add lime, clay or liquid detergent to the composition (you can use hand soap, available in large flasks). The amount of additives is quite small - no more than 0.1 part, but the characteristics of the solution improve significantly: it is easier to install, it does not delaminate longer.

It’s worth warning right away: do not mix large volumes at once. The mixture must be used within two hours. And in the last half hour it can be difficult to work with it: water may begin to separate, or it may begin to set. It depends on weather conditions and the quality of cement, on the thoroughness of the batch. If laying bricks with your own hands is your first experience in this area, it will be slow. Therefore, it is better to make small portions of the solution.

Approximate consumption of solution

Often, beginners who plan to lay bricks themselves have a question: at what temperature can they work. Without special additives you can work at positive temperatures. In the best case – not lower than +7°C. This is the threshold at which cement sets normally. At lower temperatures, the hardening process practically stops; as a result, the solution may crumble and the strength of the wall will be low. To lower the bar, there are special antifreeze additives, but the cost of such a solution is already high: the price of these additives is considerable.

Brick laying technique

Before use, the solution is stirred, since heavy particles can sink down and water can rise to the top. The mixed solution is placed in buckets and transported to the masonry site, where it is distributed. Immediately lay a strip of mortar - a bed - for one row. For a bond row the bed width is 200-220 mm, for a spoon row - 80-100 mm. If the seam is filled completely, about 10-15 mm are removed from the edge, the height of the mortar is 20-25 mm, which, when laying, provides a seam of 10-12 mm. Before installing the brick, the mortar is leveled with a trowel.

There are three techniques for bricklaying. On hard, low-plasticity mortar, the “squeeze” technique is used. In this case, the seams are completely filled. If the solution is plastic, use the “butt” technique.

Back-to-back bricklaying technique

As already mentioned, this method of laying bricks is used with plastic mortar. It should be mobile, easy to apply and move. This is achieved by adding additives. You can spread the solution over the entire surface of the wall at once: additives allow you to extend the time before setting begins.

The bed is laid with a thickness of about 20 mm, with a gap of about 15-20 mm left from the edge. This indentation allows you to avoid squeezing out the mortar onto the front surface, but at the same time the edges of the seams often remain unfilled. This significantly reduces the strength of the wall, therefore, in regions with seismic activity, laying milestone courses (external and internal) using this method is prohibited.

When laying a spoon row, take a brick, holding it with a slight slope. Approaching what has already been laid, at a distance of 8-10 cm they begin to rake up the solution with the edge (poke). When joining, it turns out that the seam is already partially filled. The brick is pressed down a little (settled), pressing it to the bed. The excess is removed with a trowel and sent either to a bucket or to the wall.

Technique for laying bricks “back to back”

With this technique, it often turns out that the vertical seams are only partially filled. That’s why this method is also called “wasteland”. They are filled in when laying the bed for the next row. If the technique is not yet well developed, it is better to fill the seams before laying the next row: voids reduce the strength and thermal insulation characteristics.

When laying a bonded row, everything is exactly the same, only the mortar is raked with a spoon edge. The backsplash is laid, like the bonded rows, and then pressed with the palm of your hand. It is necessary to ensure that all the stones are at the same level. This is done using a building level, and the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line every 3-4 rows.

"Press" technique

When working with hollow bricks, hard mortars are usually used. In this case, bricks are laid using the “squeeze” technique. In this case, you also have to work with a trowel.

The bed is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, the thickness is still about 20 mm. Since such a composition does not stretch well, it is raked to the edge of the laid brick with the edge of the tool. With your left hand, take the brick and press it against the trowel, while simultaneously pulling it up. At the same time, they continue to press with bricks, achieving the required seam thickness (10-12 mm).

“Butt-to-end” technique

Excess mortar is picked up with a trowel. Having laid several fragments, take a level, checking the horizontality of the row, tapping the trowel handle to straighten the position. The solution that has been squeezed out is picked up. The result is a dense masonry, but the process takes longer: more movements are required.

Butt-together with trimming

The average method in terms of productivity is butt jointing with cutting of seams. With this method, the bed is laid out close to the edge (10 mm), as when laying pressed, and the laying technique is flush: the mortar was raked with brick, placed, pressed down, and the excess was removed. If the wall is not subsequently planned to be finished with anything, after several rows it is necessary to take a jointer - a special tool and give the seams the required shape (convex, concave, flat).

As you can see, this is a kind of symbiosis. To make it more convenient to work, the solution is also made with “intermediate” plasticity. If it is too liquid, it will flow down the wall, leaving streaks, so it needs to be kneaded a little more tightly than when laying end-to-end.

DIY brickwork: tools, order and features

Now that you have an idea of ​​how to lay bricks with your own hands, you need to talk about the procedure as well as some technical nuances.

Sample list of tools for bricklaying

Let's start with the tool. You will need:

• mason's trowels - apply and level the mortar onto the bricks;
• concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
• mortar shovel - for kneading and periodic mixing;
• two or three buckets for the solution;
• plumb line - check the verticality of walls and corners,
• building level - to check the horizontality of the row of masonry;
• cord-mooring - for beating rows;
• jointing (for molding seams);
• hammer-pick for breaking incomplete bricks (halves, 3/4 and checks - 1/4);
• The rule is a flat metal or wooden strip to check the plane of the wall.

Next we will talk about the features of the technology. First: it is advisable to soak the brick before use. This is especially true in hot, dry weather. Then it will “pull” less moisture from the solution. If there is not enough moisture, the cement will not be able to gain the required strength, which will affect the strength of the building.

First, two corners are driven out, then they are connected with several rows of brickwork

Second: the corners are driven out first. First the first two. They are connected with 2-3 rows of bricks according to the chosen masonry pattern. Then the third corner is kicked out. The second and third are also connected in several full rows. Afterwards the fourth corner is placed and the perimeter is closed. This is how walls should be built, going around them around the perimeter, and not pushing walls out one by one. This is one of the most common mistakes.

Third: there are two row control technologies. The first is that nails are inserted into the seams of the corners, to which strings are tied. It needs to be pulled so that it marks the top edge of the brick, and also limits the outer (and, if necessary, inner) surface of the wall.

Procedure for attaching the mooring cord

The second way is to use wooden or metal orders. This is a flat strip or corner on which marks are applied every 77 mm - marks on wood or cuts on metal. They mark the required row thickness: brick height + seam. They are installed using flat mounting brackets that are inserted into the seam. If necessary, they are then simply removed and rearranged higher.

There is another way - a mason's corner. It has a slot on one side into which the mooring is inserted. “Sits” on the corner on the solution.

Breaking out a row using a mason's corner

The disadvantage of this method is the same as just using a nail in the seam: the height of the row must be controlled “manually” when drawing out the corners. If you lack experience (and where can you get it if you are doing bricklaying with your own hands for the first time), this is difficult. Having (having done it yourself) everything is easier.

Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you have seen, when laying, they use halves, three-quarter bricks and checks - 1/4 parts. To ensure that the work does not slow down, it is necessary to prepare them before starting masonry. This is done using a hammer-pick. When preparing, high precision in size is required, otherwise the dressing will go wrong. To make it easier to control the length, marks of the appropriate length are made on the handle. By placing the pen on the brick, marks are made on both sides of the spoon. Then, placing a pickaxe blade on the mark, they hit the reverse side with a hammer, making notches. Having made notches on both spoons, they break the brick with a strong blow of the pick.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove, even made by your own hands, can create. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no such person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled. The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which the optimal humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that when operating a heating device you do not have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:

• a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a firebox that simultaneously serves as a firebox and combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

• fast surface heating;
• possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which occurs if used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood-burning stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows them to increase efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

   

   The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

1. A house intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then a better option than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device equipped with a hob. The ideal option is fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. A stove in a country house with water or another type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so the best shape for the smoke channel would be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material required, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
3. Angle, plumb line and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scriber.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Joining.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Crushed stone.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

• from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the stove is being built in a finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle zone, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent laitance from leaking through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. A reinforcing mesh is installed at a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heating device, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason you are not satisfied with them, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove ordering diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:

1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden strip.

   

   Installation of the combustion door

7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. The vertical walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks placed on edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the external walls with basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before covering the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this purpose, both mineral insulation and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Oven installation features

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as large a surface area as possible. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use a hob and a water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is considered to be hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen leave virtually no soot. By the way, experienced stove makers recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), naphthalene, etc. It is unlikely that a good effect can be achieved from this, but it will benefit nearby buildings and your own health. cause significant damage.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find the material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners can fold the unit. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will reward you not only with cozy warmth and comfort, but also with safe operation over many years of operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Brick laying is always carried out in compliance with certain rules. The most important thing in the process is strength. There are several types of laying bricks. Each type has its own characteristics and subtleties that need to be taken into account when constructing a building or structure.

Types of bricks used in construction

Today, the industry produces a large number of different types of bricks. Each of them is applicable on various construction sites. You need to know the most basic points in order to choose one or another type of material and get to work.

The brick can be solid, produced by plastic pressing. This type of material is quite dense, durable and resistant to low temperatures in the winter, and is also resistant to moisture and is not subject to deformation under extreme conditions.

All these features are due to its indispensability in the construction of buildings and structures operating under heavy loads, as well as for use in waterlogged soils. In addition, this type of brick is used for laying stoves.

Hollow brick is also very often used in practice. It is used in the construction of chimneys, walls and parts of underground structures.

In addition to hollow bricks, a porous-hollow type is used in construction. These types are very often used in the construction of walls of various buildings or structures.

Due to the fact that this type of brick contains internal voids, it has good characteristics, namely: heat retention (an important condition when constructing a building or structure for further operation), as well as weight, which is significantly less than others according to the classification of bricks.

Main types of brickwork

Professional builders use various types of brickwork when constructing walls. After analyzing, you can understand that each has found its application in construction. Let's take a closer look at each type.

Solid masonry

This type is a monolithic structure. The width of this structure is equal to half a standard brick. The masonry mechanism of this type is carried out along the outer edge of the wall of the structure being built. Builders call each resulting row a mile, and the fillings formed between them are backfills. When choosing a continuous type of masonry, the bricks will be laid without the formation of various kinds of cracks and insulation. In this situation, the wall composition will be made only of bricks and mortar. Most often, this installation option is applicable in the construction of load-bearing walls, when installation work on insulation is carried out from the outside. Thermal insulation can be performed in other, various ways.

The continuous type of brick laying, according to the dressing of the seams, can be single-row or multi-row. But it is worth noting that the pillars and possible piers are laid according to the principle of three rows, no less. If you are laying structures that do not exert heavy loads, then it is better to use broken bricks. If a smoke opening is being installed using continuous laying, it is recommended to take pre-baked brick. Existing seams near the channels must be treated with clay. When laying bricks in a continuous type, only mortars that are plastic in composition are used.

Lightweight masonry

This type is used in construction, low-rise jobs. The main essence of this masonry is that two walls are erected, half the width of a standard brick, which, as a rule, are located parallel to each other. Only solid bricks should be used. Insulation is carried out with special heat-insulating materials.

Attention ! You cannot build an entire wall using lightweight masonry. Every meter, a row of butts must be laid on the wall.

Lightweight masonry was introduced into construction in order to build thinner walls, while maintaining their thermal insulation properties.

Quite often, lightweight masonry is used in the construction of structures with existing internal insulation. Laying is done only using warm mortar. Any type of sand, porous in composition, is added to it. This mixture is another opportunity to make the masonry thinner by increasing heat resistance.

Walls can also be erected on the basis of porous-hollow or hollow, as well as ceramic bricks. The lightweight look involves jointing the existing brickwork joints over the entire surface of the building’s façade.

Reinforced masonry

Reinforced masonry is often used in construction for the purpose of erecting certain structures that bear very high loads. The reinforcement itself is located in the seams, in a horizontal or vertical position. The thickness of the seams should be thicker in comparison with the diameter of the rod. There are different types of brick wall laying based on reinforcement, for example Gothic or Dutch. If the reinforcement is performed transversely, then it is better to use a metal mesh with various shapes. Such a grid should not be laid very often; every 3-5 rows of brick laying will be sufficient distance.

Reinforced masonry is, first of all, a way to build a stable and durable wall. Especially when it is planned to build any structure with a fairly large load. The essence of all work on the construction of reinforced masonry comes down to the fact that steel reinforcement is laid in the existing seams. This material is not bad in its composition and adheres very well to the mortar, due to this the masonry will turn out monolithic. The reinforcement can be laid either lengthwise or crosswise. Once the existing rods are firmly secured in the seams, they will take part of the load on their base. In addition, with the help of reinforced installation, absolutely any solutions that do not meet general standards can be implemented.

Basic brick laying schemes

To increase the strength of the brickwork, it is necessary to bandage the longitudinal, vertical, and transverse seams. In all basic schemes and methods, not only solid bricks are used, but also some of its parts, halves or quarters. To make bricks of non-standard shape, a hammer-pick is used. These bricks, incomplete in their shape, are always laid with chips inside the masonry, so that the solid side looks only outward of the wall.

Longitudinal seams are seams located horizontally in the masonry. Bandaging such seams is extremely important and necessary in order to evenly distribute the entire load that may occur on the surface of the entire width of the wall. Also, tying prevents the brickwork from separating into thinner, separate layers.

Bandaging is performed in rows that are laid out transversely to the direction of the main masonry. These rows are usually called bonded rows. Their laying is carried out at the rate of one splice per four to five rows of ordinary laying.

Transverse and vertical seams are seams located between bricks within the entire masonry. Bandaging them is necessary to strengthen the wall and give it solidity. The ligation of the transverse seam is performed using spoon rows.

In addition to this, there are other options for constructing a house or building from brick, in which the ligation of transverse seams is performed in butt rows. In construction, transverse seams are very often tied using both methods. But vertical seams are usually not tied separately. Their dressing, when laid correctly, is obtained automatically.

If the corners of a brick house are turned out ahead of the masonry of the walls, then any mistake made when performing work using the selected dressing methods can lead to cracks in the wall, regardless of which masonry method is used.

Materials and devices for bricklaying

Depending on what function the walls will perform, solid or hollow bricks are used. Clay or silicate bricks can also be used.

For the construction of brickwork, cement, lime, and sometimes a combined version of cement-lime mortar are used. You can prepare them either with your own hands or purchase them at hardware stores. By introducing a small amount of lime or clay into the solution, you can improve not only the plasticity of the composition, but also ensure the strength of the solution.

Mix the components of the mixture in a dry state, manually or using a concrete mixer. After thorough mixing, water is gradually added to the dry mixture until a special concentration of the solution is reached, at which it will have sufficient plasticity, but will retain its shape and will not spread.

To build walls with your own hands, you will need a special tool for laying bricks:

• container in which the solution will be prepared. It would be good if it was a concrete mixer;
• container in which the solution will be transferred;
• trowel;
• nylon fishing line (to secure the boundaries of the laid brick row);
• building level;
• jointing;
• order controlling the rows of brickwork;
• plumb line A special device for bricklaying that controls any deviations of the masonry from the vertical;

• square A device that controls the geometry of the corners of a building;
• a template for laying bricks that controls the thickness of the seams;
• pick;
• mallet;
• gloves.

Conclusion

Compliance with and compliance with all rules guarantees the long service and safety of any structure. And brick walls built with your own hands will become the real pride of any builder.

We will learn more about how to properly build brick walls with your own hands in the next video.

A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries to guarantee the normal operation of the unit.

Those who want to know how to ideally build a brick stove will find detailed information on all the important issues that interest an independent craftsman. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information we provide will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years without complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.

Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.

There are many stove designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:

Image gallery

If you are planning to build a country house, maximally equipped for comfortable living in it, then you usually cannot do without a small stove, especially if you plan to use it most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complex option, the design of which is simple and understandable.

In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are suitable for both a small house and a novice stove maker. – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.

To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.

General requirements for brick kilns

The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:

• The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
• In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, when heated, provide more heat, while the indicator for the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.

For heating efficiency, a T-shaped stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms with a small area.

• The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
• When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of ​​the rooms, but also to their location and the number of external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:

Room area, m²	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
	Furnace surface opening into the room, m²
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

• There is no need to play it safe and choose a massive stove for a small house, since warming it up will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the stove, and not just on its massiveness.
• Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.

If you plan to save on fuel while receiving high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will retain the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.

How to choose the right place for the stove?

The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.

• If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of the buildings should not touch each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
• In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold currents.
• Placing a firebox close to the front door will eliminate excess debris in living rooms, since you won’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
• The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.

• If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the attic floor beams, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite, or simply sand.
• The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Models of simple-designed small brick ovens

Small brick kilns do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emergence of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.

Oven "Krokha"

The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, if the structure is installed correctly, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be an ideal option, as it can create coziness in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.

This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640x770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for a small room where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.

The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of ​​18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:

Oven parameters	Numeric parameter values
Width and length at base	3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm
Height of structure to pipe	2030 mm
Oven weight	1260-1280 kg
Firebox depth	746 mm
Efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat transfer with a disposable firebox	1760 W
With a three-time fire	2940 W
Hob	Single burner

The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.

In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.

Up to the level of the stove, the stove has smooth walls, and above the combustion door, under the hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.

According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.

Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.

	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8		21
Red brick (without chimney pipe)		352
Curly (rounded) red brick		124
	350×250	1
Glass combustion door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S)	210×250	1
Cast iron ash door	140×140	1
	410×340	1
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox	500×700	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
Steel corner	40×40×5×520	4

Compact stove model - “Baby”

The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, so when it heats up, it quickly begins to release heat into the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.

When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the rear wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, laid without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.

If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.

The first heating of the finished stove should be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7-9 days.

After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps that are invisible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and carefully.

You might be interested in information on how to do it with step-by-step instructions

If you plan to decorate the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of using the stove.

The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:

• Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
• By embedding a steel pipe into it and connecting it to the main chimney;
• An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.

This diagram will help you understand the design of this brick stove model, since it clearly shows the number of rows and the configuration of the smoke exhaust channels.

The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:

Oven parameters	Numeric parameter values
Width and length at base	505×760 mm
Height of structure to pipe	725 mm
Oven weight	360÷370 kg
Firebox depth	737 mm
Chimney duct cross-section size	100×100 mm
Efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat dissipation	1210 W
Hob	single burner

To build the Malyshka stove, you will need the following materials and ready-made elements (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox		37
Red brick		62
Cast iron ash door	140×140	1
Cast iron fire door	210×250	1
Single burner cast iron stove	410×340	1
Cast iron grate	350×200	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
	550×800	1

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.

You may be interested in information about what mini

Heating stove with a small footprint

This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, there is an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.

It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building the stove into the wall between them.

The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, with the front and rear walls accounting for 210 W, and the side walls accounting for 895 W each.

The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.

The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:

In this case, the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers inside the structure longer, warming the entire area of ​​its side walls.

To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Red brick		260
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion department		130
Cast iron grate	250×400	1
Cast iron ash door	140×200	1
Cast iron fire door	200×300	1
Cleaning doors	140×200	2
Chimney damper	130×310	2
Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing	1000×600	2
Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox	500×700	1

To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.

Prices for chimney valves

chimney valves

This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.

• Roofing felt is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, the boundary of the base can be drawn on the waterproofing material with chalk using a long ruler.
• When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
• As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
• On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
• On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

• The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
• Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.

• On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
• On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
• The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.

Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying

General description and required materials

In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. It was chosen for a detailed description because, with its simple design and compact size, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.

This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the structure. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the smooth rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the fire, faces the living room.

The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of ​​up to 30 square meters. m.

The presented version of the “Swede” was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating a country house, 4000x7000 mm in size, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.

• Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
• For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
• In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
• In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.

If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.

You may be interested in information about which one is best to use when building fireplaces and stoves.

Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:

Name of materials and components	Size(mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
Red solid stove brick (excluding pipe height)	250×120×60	551
Fireclay refractory brick Sh-8	250×124×65	31
Blower door	140×250	1
Fire door	210×250	1
Doors for cleaning chambers	140×140	3
Oven	450×250×290	1
Cast iron two-burner cooking stove	410×710	1
grate	200×300	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
Steam exhaust valve	130×130	1
Steel corner	45×45×5×1020	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×700	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×905	5
Steel strip	50×5×650	2
Drying rack	190×340	1
Metal sheet covering drying chambers	800×905×0.5÷1	1
Pre-furnace metal sheet	500×700×1.5÷2	1
Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements.	5mm thick	1

Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"

Illustration	Description of the work procedure
	The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented.
	The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid staggered, with overlapping seams.
	On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber, which will be located under the oven, and the blower begin. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks.
	The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base under the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the oven niche and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For the laying of this row and the internal arrangement of the niches, 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks will be required.
	For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed.
	On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to be formed - the internal lining is made of fire-resistant brick, and the external masonry is made of red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks.
	Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks.
	On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove, intended for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks.
	Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step cut out of fireclay bricks along the entire perimeter of the internal space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45x45x1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and generally strengthen the row.
	On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick.
	For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks.
	After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other.
	The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues.
	The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks.
	After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry.
	On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks.
	The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown.
	The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown.
	The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks.
	After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate measuring 190x340 mm is mounted on the small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf.
	23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks.
	On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks.
	On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern.
	Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers.
	A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney duct, into which smoke will flow from all other ducts. The chimney pipe will be built above it.
	On the 27th row, continuous brickwork is laid on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks.
	The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks.
	Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven.
	The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. At the top of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney damper, measuring 250x130 mm. Next, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar.
	The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above.

The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.