Building a good-quality house with your own hands, even without construction experience, is not a myth at all. Despite the fact that building a house on your own is quite a troublesome task, significant savings in money forces many people to take up construction without involving specialized organizations, the cost of whose services often exceeds many times the amount of money spent on purchasing materials.
Selection of materials
How much does it cost to build a strong house for display with your own hands, and what material should you use? The speed of construction and the final cost of a home made by yourself primarily depends on the chosen material.
Brick
If you need to build a house cheaply in a short time with your own hands, then you should immediately abandon brick, since it is expensive, masonry requires special skills, and it can take years to build a building with your own hands. At the same time, this is a strong and durable material, resistant to any natural disasters, not afraid of fire and does not require any additional care.
A brick house looks good, but to build the cottage shown in the photo, you need professionals and expensive material:
Sandwich panels
If we talk about the cost and speed of building a house, they take first place. Frame-panel - assembled like a constructor from ready-made panels. They consist of chipboards, between which there is insulation - solid polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. The panels are mounted on a wooden or metal frame.
A house made of sandwich panels does not require additional insulation, and the outside is covered with siding or facade plaster is applied. The design is lightweight and does not require a powerful foundation. Many experts claim that you can build a frame house with your own hands in 4–5 days, provided you have a ready-made foundation.
Sandwich panels can be made from different materials. Sometimes their production uses resins that are harmful to human health and emit fumes. This is perhaps the only drawback that can be avoided with painstaking selection of material.
A house made of sandwich panels covered with siding is shown in the photo:
Design and preparatory work
Regardless of what material is chosen for building a house with your own hands, a project agreed upon with all authorities is mandatory. You can order an individual project taking into account your own wishes or purchase a ready-made one. As a rule, it already contains the recommended construction material, as well as its quantity, so you can understand how much it will cost to build a house already at the design stage.
Important! Before you start building a private house with your own hands, you need to clear the land, removing as much as possible all the vegetation in the place where the foundation will be built. If the surface has obvious unevenness or a serious slope, it is recommended to level it using special equipment.
Foundation structure
When building private houses with your own hands, and especially lightweight, cheap structures, strip foundations are most popular. The labor costs and cost of such a foundation are minimal. At the same time, a high-quality strip foundation is not inferior in strength to other types of more massive and heavy structures.
To construct the foundation, markings should be made - one of the most important stages, since further construction will depend on its quality. To do this, you need to take 4 pegs, with which the corners of the building will be marked. Having inserted one rod, measure the width from it and insert the second one to mark the length. The result should be a rectangle or square (depending on the project). The corners must be right. This can be checked by stretching the rope diagonally between opposite points. If they are equal, then the marking is done correctly. If there is a discrepancy, rearrange the pegs until the desired result is obtained.
Next, a pit is dug along the marked perimeter, which is 30–50 centimeters wide, and the depth is calculated based on the load and level of soil freezing, so this figure can range from 0.7 to 1.7 meters.
Sand and crushed stone are poured into the bottom and compacted. After which the formwork is installed, the walls of which are covered with a layer of roofing felt. A reinforcing mesh is made inside to give the necessary rigidity to the base. The installation of the foundation is completed by pouring the concrete mixture into the formwork. It takes about 30 days for concrete to gain grade strength, but after 7–10 days you can begin building walls.
Wall installation
If foam blocks are used as the main material for building a cheap house with your own hands, then their installation is carried out using a notched trowel and a special adhesive composition. It is very important to lay out the first row correctly, so the installation of each block must be checked using a level. Step-by-step instructions for laying blocks:
- Place a waterproofing membrane on the finished foundation.
- Lubricate the block on the sides and bottom with an adhesive compound prepared in accordance with the instructions supplied with it.
- Glue the block to the foundation and check the installation with a level.
After the first row is laid out, reinforcement should be done. To do this, two parallel recesses are cut out on the surface of the block along the entire perimeter of the house, into which reinforcing bars are placed and secured with glue. Repeat reinforcement every 4 rows. The second layer is laid offset in a checkerboard pattern.
If the choice fell on a frame house made of sandwich panels, then the construction of walls is even simpler:
- A strapping beam is attached to the foundation, and a “bed” is laid on it using self-tapping screws - a guide board with special grooves for the panel.
- Starting from the corner, install two panels that should form an exact right angle. Before installation, its lower groove is foamed and inserted into the recess of the guide board, secured with self-tapping screws.
- The panels are connected to each other using a square beam or without it immediately tightly to each other. The grooves are foamed, and the tightly pressed parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
All other panels are attached in the same way. After installing all parts of the structure, a strapping beam is fixed to the upper part, to which the floor beams are connected. You can build the walls of a house with your own hands in this way very quickly with due care.
Roof structure
After the walls are ready, you can build the roof of the house with your own hands. It is recommended to install a pitched structure, as it is more practical to use. Thanks to the slopes, precipitation does not linger on the surface of the upper part of the house, which prevents its leakage. The construction of the roof consists of the following stages:
- Installing a mauerlat is the foundation of the upper part of the house, which is a wooden beam fixed to the top of the parallel walls of the house.
- The installation process of the rafter system depends on the design features of the roof, which can be two- or four-slope.
- A sheathing is made on the rafters, which is the basis for attaching the roofing.
- A waterproofing membrane is laid between the sheathing and the roof.
Final stage
When the roof is installed, the construction of the house is almost complete. There are still a few finishing works left to do:
- installation of windows and doors;
- installation of floors, partitions and interior decoration;
- facing or painting the facade;
- communications liner.
Building a house or cottage from scratch with your own hands takes little time and is inexpensive if you use modern materials and proceed in stages. And especially efficient craftsmen will be able to build a house with their own hands in just 4 days.
The main advantages of frame houses made of panels can be seen in the video:
2018-04-13
Construction of a private house is quite an expensive undertaking. If your financial capabilities do not allow you to hire qualified builders, but you really want to have individual housing, you can. First of all, you need to decide which construction technology to choose.
You need to understand that houses made of stone, brick and concrete are the most expensive. And not only in construction, but also in further maintenance and heating. It is best to choose more modern and economical construction technologies. After all, the main thing is that it is beautiful, not expensive and not difficult to build. After all, you don’t want to spend hundreds of thousands of rubles for builders.
Let's understand the main thing - building a house is not the most difficult task. Especially now, in the information age. Building a house largely depends on your knowledge. If there is knowledge, that is, there is an understanding of how to build correctly, then the house will be built correctly and quickly.
If you decide to create a house project yourself, then you need to use special tools.
If you have computer skills, you can do it using
ArchiCad programs. Do not think that learning this program will take a lot of time, this is not true.
Based on the video courses available on the Internet, you can draw up a project for a one-story house within 3-4 days without special knowledge in architectural construction. The only thing that is required of you is to comply with the dimensions you need. The program will do the rest
herself. Creating a project on your own will significantly save your money and allow you to use it to build your home. After all, a project for a small house on the Internet costs from 15 to 100 thousand rubles.
If you don’t have the knowledge and at the same time you decide, then you can follow the path that I took. There is one writer - Sergei Domogatsky, who wrote the book “Savings on Construction. Knowledge base”, which describes step by step the construction of small and beautiful houses.
I read his book almost a year ago and have already applied the knowledge gained in it more than once. The main advantage is that the book describes the construction process for people who don’t know anything about construction at all. Calling this creation a book is not correct, because video instructions and 3D models have been added to it
files. This allows you to look at the house in 3D, rotate it and understand what to do at this stage of work. For example, we are talking about the foundation - download the 3D model and see where everything is.
Or you move on to the construction of the roof - just download the 3D model from the book and see where everything is.
The book describes how to build 3 houses. Choose the house you like and read how to build it step by step. I chose a house called “North” for myself.
The author added to the development of projects knowledge about how and what you can save on and not overpay. Therefore, based on the materials, this house costs only 340,000 rubles. This is without renovation. Only box, glazing, sewerage, plumbing and electrical wiring. At first I was confused by the price of the book itself. After all, one project costs at least 15 thousand rubles. And the author sells the book for 4800 rubles. This is despite the fact that there are 3 projects to choose from with a description of the construction process. Too cheap, I thought. Later, I visited a group of fans of the book on VKontakte and corresponded with those who were already building or had built houses based on this book. Everyone is happy.
Another thing I liked about the book is that the most difficult moments in it are illustrated with videos that can be viewed directly in the book.
This book at one time became a help to me. It’s wonderful that someone is trying so hard and describes the construction processes in detail and helps people save huge amounts of money.
At the same time, he does not put too high a price for his work.
I am sure that every second house will be built according to this book in 5-10 years. I draw these conclusions from the fact that there are already over 70,000 subscribers in the group of fans of this book on VKontakte ( https://vk.com/ecohouse).
But if you don’t have this book, then below is general information on the different stages of building a house, from the foundation to the walls and roof.
Foundation
The basis of every house is the foundation. How long your home will last depends on its quality. The foundation must withstand the load at any time of the year and regardless of weather conditions.
But this does not mean that it is necessary to spend a large part of finances on its construction, as many owners of individual houses do. The quality of the foundation is not at all affected by the amount of money spent on it. The most important thing is its correct design.
First, you need to decide what technology your house will be built using. If it is a heavy stone or brick house, then the foundation will cost you quite a lot. If the house is light, for example, a frame, SIP-panel or half-timbered house, then you can use a grid or pile-screw foundation.
Due to its simplicity, a pile-screw foundation is the cheapest. But it is no less reliable. In many respects, it is superior in reliability to all existing types of foundations designed for not very heavy houses.
For a complete understanding, below is a diagram of a pile-screw foundation. Here is a diagram of the grillage foundation:
But 80% of the population of our country choose heavy stone, block, monolithic concrete or brick houses. I will not convince you of your choice. I will only say that these houses are in many ways inferior to modern, lighter, energy-efficient and economical houses. Modern houses can really be built inexpensively with your own hands. But attempts to build an inexpensive stone or brick house with your own hands often turn into long-term construction.
We will consider here the “classic” foundation for a heavy house in order to help the majority of readers who visit our site.
Having chosen a place for construction, we begin marking according to our project. We do it using pegs and a skein of twine. First, we mark the outer part of our foundation. We hammer pegs into the corners of the future house and stretch the twine.
The most important thing is to maintain the diagonal, otherwise the house may end up looking like a parallelogram and in the future there will be big problems when working with the roof. The marking should be a regular rectangle or square. After that, we will mark the inside of the foundation.
Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of future walls with exterior and interior decoration.
The next stage is digging a pit for the foundation. It is performed according to the created markup. The depth should be greater than the freezing depth of the soil in your region. When digging, you should pay attention to possible voids in the ground. If they are present, you will have to dig to a depth where they are absent. Cover the bottom with roofing felt and sprinkle with small crushed stone. Then we pour it with molten bitumen. That's it, the waterproofing is ready. Don’t forget to install sleeves for subsequent connection of communications. This is usually done by simply cutting off a large diameter pipe. We fill our pit with rubble stone.
If we really
We would like to use clay instead of cement. It is diluted with water to the state of liquid sour cream and poured over the laid stone. For a one-story house this is more than enough, and the cost savings will be very large.
The formwork is the walls of the pit. Now, the foundation must be left alone for it to dry completely within twenty days.
By the way, as for the mentioned pile-screw foundation, its advantage also lies in the fact that it is installed in one day. That is, the very next day after the foundation installation team came to you, you can begin building a house.
Walls
If you decide to build a house from cyprich or blocks, then this section is for you. You can build the walls of a house inexpensively with your own hands, also in an unusual way. With a large selection of different wall insulation available, there is no need to build thick walls for our house. All
We will transfer the load to the wall load-bearing supports built from brick. We cover the surface of the dried foundation with roofing felt and build a basement row of bricks 30-40 cm high.
We begin to build load-bearing supports in the corners. The main thing is to maintain the correct vertical position; for this we use a level or a wooden strip installed along it. All other supports are built in the same way. The distance between them is set according to the existing project. The only thing worth considering when drawing it up is that the supports fall into the area where doors and windows are installed.
After this, we fill the entire space formed between them with any available cheap material. There are many options here. If funds allow, you can purchase hollow gypsum blocks. They are perfect for creating a warm home. The construction of such walls will allow you to save a lot on bricks without losing quality.
If you plan to use mineral wool as wall insulation, do not forget about anchors for fastening it. The number of anchors per 1 m2 should be at least five pieces. Of course, you can do less, but this will significantly reduce the quality of fastening. It will be quite unpleasant to collect pieces of insulation around your site after a strong wind. But it is best to use polystyrene foam. There is no need to install anchors, and it is more convenient to install on brick walls. From a practical point of view, this is the most acceptable option.
In general, of course, it makes more sense to build a house using German half-timbered technology. These houses are lighter, non-flammable, and in terms of reliability they are not inferior to brick ones.
The next stage is the roof. Why do we move on to the roof without insulating the walls? The installed roof will subsequently protect the insulation from precipitation and its damage. The roof covering begins with the installation of ceiling beams. They are laid on load-bearing brick
supports. The next stage is the rough ceiling.
As for securing the beams, we will proceed as follows. At the stage of their construction, reinforcement or metal rods are installed in the middle of the load-bearing supports. Their size should be such that they extend 10-15 cm above the ceiling beams. We drill the beams and lay them on support pillars so that the reinforcement goes right through the beam. The ends of the reinforcement are bent. Threads can be cut into the metal rods and the beams can be secured using washers and nuts.
Thus, a kind of seismic belt is obtained. The beams will sit firmly in place, and at the same time have sufficient movement under various unforeseen circumstances (earthquake, ground subsidence, etc.).
The rafter structure depends on your project and financial capabilities. But the best option is the standard construction option made of wooden rafters and sheathing. You shouldn't skimp on roofing. After all, it is important to understand that it only performs decorative functions secondarily. First of all, it protects the house from the effects of adverse atmospheric precipitation.
Moisture entering the roof structural elements will lead to its deformation and even destruction. The remaining consequences are not worth mentioning.
A roof made of metal tiles will last from 10 to 15 years; soft tiles will last 15-20 years; 50 years natural.
It is worth knowing that in fact these parameters can be safely doubled. This is mainly indicated by manufacturers, but the service life in real life is much longer.
Installation of windows and doors
It is important to understand that a blind double-glazed window costs several times less than an opening one. In Russia, most people install all the windows in their house with opening type. This is not wise from an economical point of view. After all, most windows never open, or
open very rarely. And you can wash the windows once a year from the outside. You don't have to open them to clean windows.
In the above-mentioned book “Savings on Construction. Knowledge Base” I also adopted another way to save on glazing. The fact is that double-glazed windows can be ordered directly from the manufacturer's factory. This is about 2 times cheaper than purchasing them from
resellers. But to place an order from the factory you need to have an individual entrepreneur or LLC. Factories accept payments only from legal entities. To do this, you can ask a friend who has any company to place an order for himself.
We choose doors and windows based on financial capabilities. But it should be remembered that wooden windows are much better than modern plastic windows. Properly installed and protected with special primers, they will serve you for many years.
In addition, if you are installing a solid double-glazed window, you do not necessarily need to order an expensive frame for it. You can make a frame for a non-opening window yourself. It's easier than it seems.
We choose insulation for walls primarily according to the climatic conditions of our region and financial capabilities.
It is important to understand that cheap mineral wool is often chemically impregnated and releases pharmaceuticaldehyde. All types of polystyrene foam (even food grade polystyrene foam) emit benzene. This substance has an extremely negative effect on a person’s well-being. But most people in our country wave their hands with the words “in our time, even living is harmful.” This article was written for a wide range of readers, so it will describe insulation based on polystyrene foam.
Having figured out the thickness of the foam, we begin its installation. The walls must first be coated with a deep penetration primer. After this, we mount the foam sheets using glue. It is important to monitor the vertical axis at all times during installation. A regular plumb line works well for this. Just like bricks, we knit foam sheets together. Each joint of sheets of a new row should fall in the middle of the sheet of the previous row. For additional fastening, you can use special dowels for fastening foam. The costs are small, and additional fastening will not harm in strong winds.
We seal the seams with liquid foam. You should not use polyurethane foam. As it hardens, it expands, which will lead to deformation of the heat-protective coating.
The top of the foam is reinforced with special fiberglass. Next, a layer of moisture-resistant plaster is applied.
Ceiling insulation
The ceiling is insulated with mineral wool. It is laid on the rough ceiling from the attic side. We must install a vapor barrier layer on the inside. As for the finishing coating of the ceiling, there are a lot of different options. Everyone will decide for themselves according to their taste and capabilities.
Floor installation
If we decide to have a floating floor, we will make it a floating one. Cover the leveled surface with a layer of roofing material. On top of it, a layer of fine crushed stone or screenings. We tamp it carefully. Next, a layer of thermal insulation is laid. Now you can lay the topcoat. It can be from any available material. 
Overall the house is ready. All that remains is to carry out all communications and interior decoration.
A little advice. When building a house, try to completely finish at least one room and kitchen. You can already live in such a house. You will always be able to do something without wasting extra time traveling. Living in an unfinished house is an additional incentive to complete it as quickly as possible. If you do not have another home, this will allow you to save significantly on rent, and use the money received on your home.
Video on how to build a house with your own hands inexpensively
Since you are reading this article, holidays outside the city on your own site are attractive to you. A country house is, of course, necessary for this. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and your labor, but also land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands as simply, quickly, easily and cheaper as possible. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allow you to wait out long periods of bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and that the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be resolved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where is already known, the site cannot be transported anywhere. Based on the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and off to work. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: building them yourself is very difficult. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal soil movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a full-buried strip foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the base of the strip). A fully buried foundation must be able to withstand its own shrinkage from at least the end of summer until the full warmth of spring next year. Insulated slab foundations require the same endurance, for example. Swedish stove. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but even the timber or log structure itself must be allowed to shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles/sq. m) and difficult to build independently.
The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be advisable only on very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built with 2 floors; brick and timber technologies allow an untrained, but attentive and careful builder to build a 2-story house. Examples of the layout of a compact 2-story brick and timber house are given in the figure:
Note: It is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. Building a country house from foam/gas blocks makes sense if the country house is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and heating costs will be lower.
The simplest and fastest ways to build a small house is to assemble it from a ready-made panel house kit or structural insulated panels (SIP). A prefabricated panel house 20x20 feet (6x6 m) is erected within a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental abilities trained according to the instructions for the kit. It’s no joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles/sq. m. Without foundation.
A house made of SIP will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rub./sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held together with locks between the panels. For a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have quite a lot of internal partitions made from the same SIPs with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So, we come to the conclusion: to build a country house quickly, simply and inexpensively from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
It is better to build an inexpensive garden and/or compact country house according to a standard design; For significant construction details, see below. A ready-made free project for a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard design of a garden house for 300 rubles. can actually be found on the relevant websites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when going through projects, you need to take into account some significant circumstances, namely the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. excavation and foundation laying. The problem is frost heaving of the soil. During seasonal movements, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll in waves. Dacha plots are cut out on diverse soils, but with one common property - sufficient self-connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to the raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight tilt.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. The square-cube law, well known in technology (and stubbornly unnoticed by amateurs), applies here. It’s easy to test it experimentally: glue together cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple both. The third factor is the soil’s own cohesion is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately state the conclusion: if a small wooden country house fits into a circle of a certain diameter in the plan, then on ordinary garden soils it can be built on a shallow foundation, which is much faster, simpler and cheaper. In which circle should the design of a wooden house fit into the plan, so that it can be built on a shallow foundation on soils up to and including medium heaving, is shown in Fig. Here everything depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more “square” the house is, the better it copes with seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tram” houses for narrow areas, without looking closely, on a foundation of normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected to its structure. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or an articulated connection with it are excluded from the house plan projection. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. Let us only remind you that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils except non-heaving soils, you need to lay a normally buried TISE strip or foundation. A slab foundation with insulation “settles” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to crack. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, you can lay a foundation using geoscrews (see below) with a steel grillage. The easiest and cheapest way to assemble a non-buried foundation for a compact country house is a columnar one from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. The blocks are laid out on cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; the top ones cross the bottom ones. Thus, the column is 400x400 mm in plan. The pits for the posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15+15 cm is made up of an anti-heavy sand and crushed stone cushion. There is no point in deepening the pillars of blocks by more than 20 cm: the ligation of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the forces of frost heaving will tear the pillars. The number of rows of blocks in a column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. The maintenance break after installing a columnar foundation made of blocks is required to be minimal, for hardening of the masonry mortar, this is approx. a week. The buried foundation of a compact house is often made, following the example of large buildings, on bored piles in soft roofing felt formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are placed on the shell of the piles, which makes it possible to compensate for the difference in height along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast, small-scale construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - they must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: There is no point in laying a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the “caps” of TISE piles work normally in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one can create one. The best option for a buried foundation for a compact house is with geoscrews. Geoscrews are a type of shortened screw piles specifically for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, geoscrews are not designed for muddy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a homemade strip foundation, because... Geoscrews themselves are not cheap, but for a small house this is not so bad, since few screws are required. A geoscrew for low- and medium-density soils, by the principle of holding it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a confirmed furniture screw and also looks like it in appearance, see fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Both geoscrews can be used on soils up to excessive heaving. You can either lay the wooden bottom frame of a building on the heads of geoscrews or mount a steel grillage. For information on how to build a wooden house on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of geoscrews for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: If you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them on whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. Let's get to the point: what kind of simple country house will be cheaper and more likely to be built? In order of increasing cost, complexity and construction time, as well as potential aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are arranged as follows. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Dimensions. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War, and thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung cabin from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and placing it on posts, concrete supports for grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone cushion (so that weeds do not sprout and annoying living creatures do not appear). A foundation for a kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung as a country house has only one drawback: its utilitarian appearance, which any design efforts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from a ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 car (see figure): they have a flat floor and it is easier to place them on posts due to the small or absence of recesses for the wheel arches. You need 6 pillars (you can use dry stacked brick ones): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and can be converted into housing more easily than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: Don’t take non-standardized “booths” from ancient ZiSs and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and the insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to zero vehicle dimensions (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. If your site is long and narrow, then a “tram” house made from a kung on it is practically the only way to do without laying a buried foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-compartment kung (double-compartment), on the left in Fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. The kung cabin (top left and right in the figure) already provides normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung cabin from old communication hardware. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some effort, such a kung turns out to be not a house, but a piece of candy, below right in the figure. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance) compartment for the autonomous power supply unit (BEA): in its place is a mini-toilet with a shower. By removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get space for a gas stove with 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself is purposely designed for gardening tools, planting material, etc., with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, communication equipment shelters have side windows, which cannot be said about all military shelters. Chalet means hut, but what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. The country hut house is almost as durable as a kung, because... its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small hut house (up to approximately 4x6 m) can be placed on a shallow foundation on any soil except excessively heaving soil. A hut house requires 1.5-2 times less materials than a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimal set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage, inherited from its ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any decoration into any landscape, see fig.: There are few disadvantages to the chalet house. The hut house retains all its advantages up to a size of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small hut house, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that’s all. In America and Canada, single-occupancy hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal tenants and sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare owner, who remembers), left and center in the figure: Construction of a single house hut - shelter and a 3-bed country house But the hut house, only 3x3 m in plan, can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. Heating costs in both cases are small, because the relative heat loss area of the hut house is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your summer cottage is habitable from the first warmth of spring until the winter cold, then a hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house measuring up to 6x4 m in plan is carried out step by step. in this way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason that few people build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw further.” Drawings of a hut house 3x3 m for two or three are given in the figure: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, like the intermediate frames, is 150x75 timber. Firstly, on facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tie (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge girder, a ridge beam of the same cross-section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and top strapping (longitudinal stiffening links) made of the same timber. Longitudinal and transverse connections are connected by a half-tree insert. Those. Using the example of a 4x6 m house, you can already see how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house increase with its size. Note: On the bottom screed, 2 more ends of the 100x75 timber are visible on the sides of the window. The internal partitions rest on them. The door frame on the other façade extends up to the tightening and is made of 75x150 timber; The lower screed of this facade is split. If the house does not have a basement, the window frame is made in a similar way. In the general concept, a bungalow is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, which is structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, the “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because... spacious, well ventilated, not overheated by the Sun, and in construction no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, little is known to construction specialists outside the tropics these days that bungalows are also a type of construction technology. The hut-bungalows built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the forest wilds of Russia, the northern United States and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still suitable for habitation. The house, built using bungalow technology, is easily recognizable by its 2-layer cladding made of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. The bungalow as a wooden construction technology combines elements of half-timbered and frame structures with working cladding. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a trace. advantages: The disadvantages of construction using bungalow technology are, firstly, increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of the openings: the outer cladding boards need to be cut in place to fit the platbands, otherwise pockets will form - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelter houses are generally more popular than hut houses due to their better habitability. In a bungalow, you don’t have to climb up to sleep and lean out to eat lunch. The structure of a bungalow-type shelter house is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelter The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, a non-buried strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If it is columnar or pile, then you need 12 supports: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical post) on the others. This house can be extended up to 3-3.5 m in length. Then, if you do not extend it accordingly. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. A “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation measuring 4x5.875 m in plan is, of course, more complex (see next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of “real” recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev This option also works well on heavily heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a construction technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from timber from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is provided by cladding made of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use because... Under each joint of the sheets, backing posts and lengths are needed. Bungalow construction diagrams are shown in the figure: The rafter floor structures are not shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled by cutting into half a tree and into a tenon, and the tenons of the racks are located on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the corner reinforcement diagram in the center of Fig. The use of steel corners, overlays and other innovations in this case is unacceptable! You have to pay for the Old Testament “stupidity” with labor. The sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (convexities of the annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: internal inward, external outward. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of the “humps” it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along the short (end) edges with triplets (not pairs!) of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also attached along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or in a snake (zigzag) with a pitch of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along the short edges with pairs of fasteners; along the long ones - in a row with the same step. Assembling the bungalow's load-bearing frame is a very important stage of work. And labor-intensive, because You can’t hammer in staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were installed using wedging. The frame of the house is assembled using bungalow technology. order: A frame mini-house does not have any special features compared to a large residential one; a diagram of its device is shown in Fig.: The construction procedure is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a “classic” frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut and bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take up time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: its simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of a frame house is very flexible. On the one hand, it forgives the rather serious mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative amateurs some scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about building a small frame shelter house:
To this story we only need to add that the viewers’ comments about insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive” the dew point out once and for all, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used that do not allow condensation to form in the insulation layer and further inside: EPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The roof beam (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a peculiarity. It is determined by its small size, and, as a consequence, by the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the lack of a load-bearing partition (internal capital wall) in it (excuse the bureaucracy). To support the latter, a fully connected foundation is required; at a minimum - a tape of normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof crossbar) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the truss rack rests on a transverse beam-screed, and in the layered version on a load-bearing partition; split screed. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like based on your skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum standard size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge beams - 100x75 and mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame mauerlat, the timber of the top frame can serve directly. After purchasing a country plot for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes urgent. Well, building it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, you are planning a huge “palace” that requires the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals. Usually compact buildings are chosen for a dacha, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement. The optimal material for a country house building is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure. Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the location and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work. The size of the future house largely depends on the area of the summer cottage, the number of family members and the financial capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and work time. Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Larger buildings are erected much less frequently, and mainly in cases where they are planned to be used year-round. But this, most likely, will not be a country house, but a full-fledged country house. The layout of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that can be established by the board of the gardening association, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. The following distances are most often required: Usually, to install a country house, the highest place in the area where Water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. Increased humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always have a negative impact on the overall strength and durability of the structure. Most often, the following construction technologies are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log houses, walls made of blocks or bricks. For summer cottages, designs of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are predominantly chosen. Often a building has an attic space used for storing garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday use, but which can always be useful in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes simultaneously serve as a ceiling. If the family is large, and the area of the plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be used as a living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor you can arrange cozy sleeping areas for the whole family. Not at all necessary in a dacha building, build a full second floor, since its role can be perfectly fulfilled by an attic superstructure. By decorating it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful, healthy country atmosphere. Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for heating the premises must still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Typically, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast iron heating and cooking stoves. By the way, if you plan to build a real fireplace or brick stove, then they must be included in the project being compiled. There are also ready-made versions of country houses, sold complete in disassembled form, which simply need to be delivered to the site and assembled. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions, which outline the procedure for carrying out the work, basic technological techniques and connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies. For the owner of the site, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house yourself. The main advantage of this option is that the kit often already includes everything necessary for the building’s electrical network, its ventilation system, and even for installing the water supply.
Having decided on the approximate plan of the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. This choice will determine not only the appearance of the building itself, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction. However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, there are special fire-retardant impregnations on sale that significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is people’s neglect of basic fire safety requirements that in the overwhelming majority of cases becomes the cause of fire. This option can be called optimal, since a foundation made of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of walls made of wood, thus becoming a reliable foundation for the house. It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses. If you don’t want to bother with calculations, then it’s better to purchase a prefabricated ready-made model of a house that has a certain area, for which you only need to prepare a place. In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project. Foundation material For any type of foundation you will need the following materials: — sand, crushed stone, cement; - third-grade board and timber for formwork; - brick or concrete blocks; — waterproofing material (roofing felt); — expanded clay of the middle fraction. Wall and roof material Since wood was chosen for the construction of the walls, other materials will be selected based on this: — bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters; - fastening elements - nails, self-tapping screws, bolts, studs; - corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening nodes; — vapor barrier film; — insulation — mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay; — to cover the roof, it is better to choose a lightweight material — ondulin or corrugated sheeting. Once the installation location for the future house has been determined and the materials have been purchased, you can proceed to arranging the foundation. True, first you will have to decide on its type. Even when erecting such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you cannot do without a foundation. In this case, one of two types is ideal for these purposes - a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder. You can find out in detail how to build it correctly by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal. However, strip foundations are still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient because it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, to do this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. is described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by following the link provided. If a columnar foundation is selected, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ 200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then pour a 30 ÷ 40 mm layer of sand into the resulting pit, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion mid-fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be filled with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done to ensure that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They cannot stand expanded clay (especially small clay), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface. To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to cover the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm. A frame house can be placed on either a columnar or strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be reliably waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material. In order for the floor to be reliable, it is necessary to use high-quality timber of the required cross-section for the frame. If funds allow, then it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of dimensions, but by placing a certain margin in their cross-section. The table shows the optimal dimensions of timber for a frame house: Another option is to lift the frame directly into place. For example, if a house is being erected independently, without helpers, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the tent alone to the height of the frame, install it evenly and temporarily fix it until it is finally secured. This means that each of the bars will have to be placed separately. The bars are secured to the lower frame using powerful corners that can hold them in a vertical position. It is best to use self-tapping screws rather than nails for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher. Then, when the upper strapping block is installed and secured to all other vertical posts, the area with the window opening is secured to the space left for it. Installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof will be covered on the same day. It is highly undesirable for your freshly laid flooring to get wet if it rains unexpectedly at night. Therefore, it is better to first resolve the issue with the roof, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house. A few words need to be said about the types of rafter systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, it is necessary to have a general idea about this, to know which design is better to choose. There are two types of rafter systems - hanging and layered. Hanging system
The hanging rafter system is distinguished by the fact that it is installed only on external load-bearing walls and has no other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house building. In order to lighten the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, hanging rafters are fastened with ties. The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously serve as a frame for lining the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes. Layered system
A layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal permanent partitions that will become additional support points. This scheme can also be used when constructing the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on the foundation. When installing this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so it will be possible to use fewer retaining elements. It is perfect for attic structures that will be used as living quarters. The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit tightly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut out at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure. The beams are secured to the frame structure of the walls using nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners. Having completed the installation of the ceiling beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary plank flooring is laid on the floor beams to ensure comfortable movement along the attic plane during installation of the rafters. The roof truss system can be mounted using different sequences of fastening its elements: The cross-section of beams or logs used for rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two support points, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters It should be noted that the attachment point for the rafters in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened to the ridge and how long they are. If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the load-bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a notch is shown in the picture: If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut at a right angle to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed to it using a special fastening plate, a sliding support, an angle, a bracket, nails or long screws. If the house is very small, then after securing the rafters to the frame, tying them with ridge beams or boards, you most likely will not have to install additional supporting elements. Detailed information about the exact details can be obtained from a special publication on our portal by following the recommended link: For installation of additional reinforcing elements of the rafter system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table: Rafter fasteners After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for the roof deck. The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm. If a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of sheathing slats, the slopes are covered completely - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing felt, which are overlapped by 150 ÷ 200 mm and glued together with bitumen mastic. Another option is to use soft bitumen decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology. Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation pattern in direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions supplied with them. Also, for any type of sheet roofing material, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ 200 mm) and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction along the roof are determined. For the lining, a special profile is fixed around the perimeter of the pediment triangle, into which the prepared panels, cut at the desired angle, will be installed. Installation is usually done symmetrically - from the middle post to one side and then the other - then the cladding will be smooth and neat. By the way, install the lining, Besides, you can do it horizontally, in a herringbone pattern, or come up with a more complex pattern. Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.
Now, having finished the external finishing of the roof and being confident that rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can move on to installing windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding. Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give neatness to the overall appearance of the house. When exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, place wedges (inserts) made of wooden slats. The door frame is secured to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with polyurethane foam. Having installed all the windows and doors, you can proceed to installing the floor. To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor. Thermal insulation materials When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is missing, place insulation along the internal slopes of the roof. That is why mineral wool is most often used as insulation - after being tightly laid between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same. If the ceiling is sheathed on the side of the house with plasterboard or clapboard, then we must not forget that you cannot step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. You must move carefully along the floor beams. The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and porch. If a place is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted. If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it. Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to do without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable craftsman who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how to correctly install certain components in the structure of the house. You can “mobilize” your relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.
Without the financial resources to attract professional builders, you can, armed with special literature and patience, build a house yourself. In practice, this requires effort, but can save up to half the construction cost. Many self-builders invite others to view their projects and provide detailed reports, accompanying the process of building a house with detailed photographs. Through the efforts of two men, a cheap house for permanent residence with an attached garage was built. Initially, the project did not include a garage and was added after the house was completed. In general, the project changed as the discussion progressed on the advice of other builders and the requests of the wife. The original layout of the house included 6 rooms on two floors. During construction, it was decided to equip two bathrooms, while on the ground floor the toilet and bathtub should be separate. The area of the living room and the location of the stairs have also changed. Compared to the initial project, the living room was too narrow and elongated. The stairs were also planned to be awkward and steep. After the changes, these shortcomings were eliminated. In May 2010, the father of a small family planned to build a cheap house with his own hands for the amount of 300 thousand rubles. This amount included costs not only for materials, but also for connecting gas and electricity. According to the estimate, the following expenses were incurred: According to the builder himself, the estimate lacks a number of small items. However, this also requires additional costs. It should also be noted that some of the windows were received from friends and did not require financial expenses. In total, 327,315 rubles were spent on the construction of the house without any small details. This amount does not include the attached garage. It was added later according to a separate estimate. Additionally, the construction of the garage required an amount of about 34,000 rubles. Taking into account unspecified expenses, the house cost no more than 400 thousand rubles. The foundation is pre-planned with a width of 35 cm and a height above the ground of 25 cm and 20 cm below the ground. A die-cut section of 2.5x100 mm was chosen as a reinforcing element. The reinforcement of the tape was planned in 2 layers, top and bottom, with three connected sheets of die-cutting in each. On the advice of experienced builders, vertical elements were added, and the number of sheets to be connected was increased to 5 pieces. Additionally, the height of the foundation above the ground increased and amounted to 45 cm. After the foundation was poured into concrete, 20 anchor bolts were installed to install the lower frame. Before installing the walls of the first floor, the platform was installed and insulated and pipes for the sewerage system were laid. The bottom of the platform is left open, the insulation is fixed by means of fixed cuttings of boards. 3 layers of foam plastic, 15 cm thick, were used as platform insulation. The subfloor is made of 150x50 mm boards. The walls were installed in a horizontal position. Foam plastic and 8 mm plywood protection are laid between the racks, and windows are also installed. The windows in the project were used second-hand. Installation of the assembled wall into a vertical position was carried out by two men. It was decided to abandon the installation of jibs in the construction of the walls. The builder assumed that the frame would be sufficiently rigid due to the plywood sheathing. After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of internal partitions was carried out. Polystyrene foam was also used as insulation. After installing the frame, a temporary floor from unedged boards was partially laid and the walls were assembled horizontally and installed vertically. Second-floor windows were also used. To increase sound insulation in the interfloor ceiling, non-woven cloth was laid on the floor joists under the boards. This allows you to partially dampen vibration from steps. Upon completion of the assembly of the walls of the attic floor, the rafter system was installed. The rafter overhangs were not extended. An inch board was used as lathing. The roof was covered with corrugated sheets 4 m long. Siding was used for the exterior of the building. It was mounted with a ventilation gap of 25 mm. Also at the stage of exterior finishing, a vestibule was added. The foundation for the vestibule was not installed; the structure was installed on pieces of concrete laid on the ground and sidewalk curbs. The location of the staircase in the project caused a lot of controversy. Initially, its location suggested excessive emphasis on the attic ceiling. After changing the location and design of the staircase, it was made without a platform with slight turns. The staircase is made of boards 50x150 mm, the width of the steps is 30 cm. The staircase was installed after the rough finishing of the first floor. Under the upper span there is space left for installing a toilet there. According to personal feelings, the staircase turned out to be comfortable and compact. Before the finishing of the premises began, insulation of the interfloor ceiling and flooring of the second floor were completed. To increase the level of sound insulation, felt is nailed between the joists and floor boards. After this, rough finishing of the interior of both floors of the cheap house was completed. The rough finishing included three points: In the finishing process, water-based paint was predominantly used. The living room, kitchen and bedrooms are painted in different colors. The floors in the rooms are covered with linoleum, the ceilings are decorated with expanded polystyrene tiles.
Foundation
Non-buried
Recessed
Geoscrews
Video: installing a frame house
What kind of house should I build?
When there is no time for excesses
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalows and... bungalows
Bungalow like a bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Frames
Video: 4x6 country house using frame technology
Video: DIY mini frame house
In conclusion about the roof
Proe ct of a small country house
In any case, the first steps are drawing up a project 
Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name
What type of house to choose?
Stages of construction of a country house
Materials for building a country house
Prices for various types of timber
Country house foundation
Fine expanded clay is an excellent rodent repellent Construction of a frame structure
For a country house, the best choice is a frame structure 
Roof construction and roofing
Types of rafter systems
Floor beams
An important structural element is the floor beams 
Installation of the rafter system
Maximum permissible rafter leg length (in mm) Rafter spacing (in mm)
1100
1400
1750
2100
Section of the rafter leg (in mm)
bars with cross-section logs Ø bars with cross-section logs Ø bars with cross-section logs Ø bars with cross-section logs Ø
up to 3000 80×100 100
80×100 130
90×100 150
90×160 160
up to 3600 80×130 130
80×160 160
80×180 180
90×180 180
up to 4300 80×160 160
80×180 180
90×180 180
100×200 200
up to 5000 80×180 180
80×200 200
100×200 200
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-
up to 5800 80×200 200
100×200 200
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-
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up to 6500 100×200 200
120×220 240
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Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters
Roofing system
Installation of windows and doors
It is best to install the door as a block - together with the frame and leaf Installation and insulation of floors
The floor is finished! Prices for thermal insulation materials
Measures for additional thermal insulation
Extensions to the house
Video: building a country house using frame technology
Features of the house layout
The cost of building a house with your own hands
Installation of a shallow strip foundation
reinforcement with die-cutting - you can’t do that! 
Construction of the first floor
The principle of assembling the second floor
Installation of rafters and roofing
Exterior decoration of the building
Features of the staircase and its installation
Interior decoration of the house
