Until relatively recently, 15–20 years ago, almost the entire population of the country with a central water supply everywhere paid for water supply services in accordance with established consumption standards for each person living in a house or apartment. In the corresponding proportion, payments were made for water disposal (sewage) services.
Currently, most homeowners already use water meters. The installation of these metering devices is usually planned at the stage of building a house and connecting utilities to it. In old houses, water meters are installed into existing wiring by specialists from specialized companies or master plumbers, whose services are widely advertised in any newspaper. It is quite easy to install a water meter yourself, if, of course, the owner of the apartment has certain skills in working with plumbing fittings and equipment.
This publication will be devoted to the need to install a water meter, the rules for its selection, self-installation, as well as what will need to be done after installing the meter.
Are water meters needed?
The imperfection of the payment system based on the number of residents is obvious - these standards, which exist in many regions, by the way, to this day, of course, are always calculated taking into account the interests of the water supply organization, which under any circumstances must remain profitable.
In this case, the possible absence of one or more family members is absolutely not taken into account. Even if no one was in the apartment for a long time (for example, summer living outside the city or a family vacation trip), this does not affect the regularity of receipt of bills for payment.
It is no secret that, probably, in any multi-apartment building there are representatives of the category of so-called persistent defaulters. And the real water consumption that remains unpaid is often scattered by management companies among the bills of those residents who have not yet bothered to install metering devices and pay for water according to the bills that come to them.
But even if we put aside all these quite probable points and turn to purely statistical data, the benefit of installing a metering device still becomes obvious. It is estimated that the average city dweller uses up to 4 cubic meters of cold water and up to 3 cubic meters of hot water per month. But according to existing standards, you have to pay almost twice as much - 11.7 cubic meters!
The situation is often even more complicated for owners of private houses - they are charged an additional payment based on the area of the adjacent land plot and whether they have their own car. Again, it is never taken into account whether the site is used as a household plot, and whether the car is washed often.
Installing individual metering devices will help you avoid paying extra, but give your money only for the actual consumption of cold and hot water. Of course, this will require certain primary costs - for the purchase and installation of equipment. However, as practice shows, in a family of 4 people, such expenses already pay off in six months.
Another very important positive aspect of installing such metering devices. In most regions of our country, we are accustomed to treating water as something that has always been there and, of course, is not going anywhere. At the same time, few people thought that water reserves are by no means unlimited. And installed water meters significantly discipline consumers, involuntarily forcing them to be more attentive to the reasonable and economical use of water. Probably, such an apartment owner will never again have a leaking faucet, or a faulty tank in the bathroom.
Maybe at the level of an individual consumer this is perceived as some kind of trifle, but already on the scale of a district, city and larger ones, such measures give a very impressive result.
How a water meter works and how to choose it correctly
In order to correctly install a water meter with your own hands and operate it correctly, you probably need to have an idea of its structure.
Most water meters used in domestic conditions have a single tachometer operating principle. The flow of water passing through the device causes rotation of the impeller (impeller) or turbine. The torque is transmitted mechanically or electromagnetically to the counting device. Each revolution corresponds to a certain water flow.
The principle is the same, but its technical implementation may vary.
- Small water meters used in apartments usually have an impeller. The number and length of its blades are precisely calculated, and give an accurate calculation of the consumption of water passing through the chamber of the device.
As a disadvantage of this scheme, it can be noted that the wheel with blades has a certain inertia and is more susceptible to the influence of turbulent flows created by the abundant passage of water, which affects the accuracy of flow calculations. However, on the scale of consumption of one apartment this has no practical significance, so such meters are the most common.
If the water meter is installed on a more “serious” main line with high water pressure, then, as a rule, turbine-type devices are installed.
They do not have the disadvantages of an impeller, and their level of accuracy is much higher.
There are also meters of a combined type with a system of valves that ensure the passage of water at low pressure through the impeller, and when it increases, through the turbine. However, they are usually used only for general house accounting, and most likely you will not have to deal with them at the household level.
- Water meters can be single-jet or multi-jet. As is probably clear from the name, in the first, water passes through the chamber in a general flow, which, in principle, helps to enhance the turbulence effect. To reduce this negative phenomenon, in particularly accurate meters the flow is divided into several channels.
- Based on the degree of isolation of the counting mechanism from water, metering devices are divided into “dry” and “wet”.
In water meters built on the “wet” principle, the counting device has direct contact with water. The transmission of torque from the impeller is carried out in the usual mechanical way, through a system of axles and gears. Advantages: insensitivity to magnetic influences, low price. Disadvantages: short service life due to the constant interaction of the mechanism with water, special sensitivity to the purity of the flowing liquid.
In “dry” meters, the impeller or turbine mechanism is separated from the counting device by a sealed partition. The precise mechanics of the meter never, under any circumstances, come into contact with water. The transmission of rotation is carried out through a magnetic pair - a ring magnet is installed on top of the impeller body, and the same one is in the counting mechanism, which is also located in a sealed cylindrical flask. Such a scheme dramatically increases the service life of the device, which is no longer so demanding on the purity and temperature of the water. The disadvantage is vulnerability to the external influence of magnetic (electromagnetic) fields, so such meters began to be equipped with an additional protective anti-magnetic coupling.
Such metering devices are currently the most common in apartment conditions.
The diagram shows the basic structure of a typical modern residential water meter:
The housing of the lower part of the meter (1) can be made of non-magnetic alloys based on aluminum, brass, and less commonly polymer ones. The housing has channels for the passage of water (2) with a central chamber in which a paddle wheel-impeller (3) is installed. The impeller axis of high-quality water meters is equipped with watch stones (4), which ensures its rotation with minimal friction and gives high accuracy of readings.
The “water” part of the meter is hermetically sealed with a polymer partition (5), which is fixed either with a special nut or a locking ring. For meters with antimagnetic protection, a special protective coupling is located in the same place in the center, protecting against the influence of an external magnetic field.
A sealed counting mechanism (6), which is most often made of transparent plastic, is placed on top of the body. It is attached to the body with a special ring, which allows it to be rotated around its axis so that the scale can be set to the position that is most convenient for reading readings. This fixing ring must have a factory seal.
The transmission of torque is carried out by a pair of ring magnets (7). One of them is located on the impeller, not its upper section, and the second is installed coaxially with the first on the main shaft of the counting mechanism. Thus, the rotation of the impeller is “copied” by the precise mechanics of the device.
The rotation of the main shaft through a system of gears (8) is scaled in a certain way and transmitted to a dial indicator of flow (9) and to a digital scale with rollers (10) that count water consumption, usually accurate to the third decimal place (from 1 liter). Thus, on most meters there are three red numbers, showing fractions of a cubic meter, and five black numbers, allowing you to count from 0 to 99 99 9 m³ of water consumed.
Video: how a regular water meter works
Many modern water meters are equipped, in addition, with a special reed switch sensor, which converts a certain number of revolutions into an electronic pulse.
In this case, the metering device is connected by a signal cable to a special indicator panel, which can be located nearby or even located in the entrance. Such a panel can have programming functions and show not only consumption, but also its monetary equivalent in accordance with current tariffs.
Hot water meters, in general, completely repeat the described design, but are made of heat-resistant materials that ensure accurate readings when heated to high (up to 90 °) temperatures. In addition, some modern water meters with pulse output help solve another cost-saving problem - they can monitor water temperature.
For these purposes, a temperature sensor is installed in the pipe near the entrance to the meter (sometimes in the water meter body itself), which is also connected to an electronic display unit. If the water temperature drops below the established standards, its consumption will be taken into account in a separate window. When the temperature is normalized, recording is carried out in the usual way. When paying for hot water consumed, the average figure is displayed. A two-tariff charging scheme can also be used - for example, when the water temperature is above 50° (optimal), the coefficient for calculation is taken as “1”, but if the temperature falls below this contractual mark, in the range of 45 ÷ 50°, then when calculating the amount to A reduction factor of “0.7” is applied to payments.
How to approach the problem of the required water meter?
- First of all, you should find out from the management company in charge of the water supply at the homeowner’s place of residence which devices are allowed for installation by the rules in force in the region. Perhaps the city has already implemented an electronic metering system and a multi-tariff payment system, and utility companies will require the mandatory installation of a meter with pulse transmission of signals. Most likely, the client will be asked to purchase a water meter from them with the provision of a paid service for its installation. If not, then the Vodokanal should provide information about trade or service organizations that have the right to sell such metering devices.
- When purchasing a water meter yourself, under no circumstances should you purchase it secondhand or from retail outlets that are not completely trustworthy, even if the price seems very attractive. Firstly, there is no guarantee that the device is not a fake or “refurbished” used one. y-counter, and no one knows how long it will last. Secondly, you can run into trouble when, after installation, the management organization refuses to register this water meter, and you will have to buy another one.
What data should you pay special attention to:
- As already mentioned, there are meters for cold and hot water. The temperature range must be indicated in the product passport (for example, from 5 to 40 ° WITH– for cold and from 40 to 90 ° WITH– for hot). Similar symbols can be printed on the front indicator panel of the device; in addition, color markings are used (blue and red housings). There are also universal models - they usually have gray color markings, and the panel indicates the possibility of their use for both hot and cold water supply.
- Next important parameter - diameter conditional diameter (DN). Od must correspond to the actual pipe layout at the intended installation location of the device. Typically, apartments use pipes with DN 15 or 20 mm - this needs to be clarified in advance, before going to the store.
- Meter accuracy class. The current rules allow the use of devices with accuracy class “A” (±1%) or “B” (±2%). Typically, modern meters provide operation according to metrological class “B” when they are horizontally positioned with the scale facing upward, and according to class “A” - with any other placement of the device (with the exception of placing the water meter on a horizontal section with the counting mechanism facing downwards is prohibited).
- It is worth clarifying the maximum permissible water pressure in the system, since some metering devices may have certain restrictions. Typically for Du-15 meters the limit is 1 MPa(10 bar), and for Du-20 - 1.6 MPa(16 bar).
- An important indicator is the maximum (Qmax) and nominal (Qn) water flow. For the most common for Du-15 meters, these values are usually Qmax - no more than 3 m³/hour, - about 1.5 m³/hour. Such an expense should be more than enough for any apartment or house. Exceeding these values will lead to very rapid failure of the meter.
All necessary technical information is always indicated in detail in the product passport and is very often applied to the front panel of the counting device, as shown in the figure:
Everything is very clear:
— SV-15G – water meter with DN -15 mm, for hot water with a maximum temperature of 90° C. This is also indicated by the red color of the connecting ring of the device.
— The symbol “V-N” means that the device corresponds to metrological class “B” when positioned horizontally (H).
— Accordingly, the designation “A-V” indicates the class of the meter “A” when it is installed vertically (V).
— The maximum permissible pressure in the water supply system is 10 bar.
— Nominal water flow Qn – 1.5 m³/hour.
— Red pictographic symbols in the center below indicate that this device model has state certification.
- Important parameters are the dimensions of the water meter, on which the possibility of inserting it in a particular place largely depends. Of particular importance is the so-called installation length of the meter, which takes into account the size of the device itself and the thickness of the connecting elements. This is a standardized value: for apartment water meters it is usually 110 or 130 mm, and for house meters - 190 or 260 mm.
- The device passport must contain marks indicating that it has undergone technical control at the manufacturer, indicating the date of manufacture of the product. The warranty obligations for the inter-inspection period of operation of the metering device should also be indicated there. As a rule, for cold water meters it is 6 years, hot - 4 years. It is necessary to check the serial serial number of the device - it must be indicated in the documents and on the body of the counting device.
- The store must make a mandatory certified note in the passport about the date of purchase of the water meter.
- The completeness of the water meter delivery must be checked. In the minimum configuration, as a rule, the device itself is supplied with two connecting fittings with gaskets and union nuts - “American”. If the meter has the ability to pulse readings, then the kit may also include the sensor itself with a connecting signal cable, although it also happens that they have to be purchased separately.
Prices for water meters
Water meters
DIY water meter installation
If a metering device has been purchased and a decision has been made to install it yourself, you should first of all become familiar with the basic rules for its installation.
- The meter must be installed in a heated room (with permissible air temperature from + 5 to + 50%). Natural or artificial lighting must be provided. The location of the device must provide full access to it for taking readings, inspection, maintenance or replacement, and eliminate the possibility of mechanical damage.
- Before self-installation, it is recommended to obtain technical installation specifications from the management company - they may differ slightly from one another in different regions.
- The water meter should be installed as close as possible to the entrance of the water pipe to the apartment (house). It is recommended to choose, if possible, a straight horizontal section for this. Between the input and the meter there should be no tees or other branches that are plugged or blocked by valves. Nothing should give any reason to an official representative of Vodokanal to assume the possibility of unauthorized withdrawal of water bypassing the meter.
- The meter will work correctly if the straight sections before and after it are observed - this reduces the likelihood of turbulent flows. The length of the straight section to the meter should be 3 Du, at the outlet - 1 Du. In relation to the most common water meters in apartment conditions, Du-15, this will be 45 and 15 mm, respectively. As a rule, this distance is ensured by the connecting fittings included in the kit.
- At the entrance to the apartment (house) in front of the meter, it is necessary to install a shut-off valve. This will make it possible to shut off the general water supply to the intra-apartment water distribution system if it is necessary to carry out plumbing installation or repair work.
- The counter impeller mechanism is quite sensitive to insoluble suspensions in water - grains of sand, pieces of scale, rusty flakes, etc. Not only do they have an abrasive effect on plastic parts, but the assembly of the upper and lower fastening of the impeller axis can be damaged, and the water meter will quickly fail. Therefore, a dirt filter is always installed in front of the metering device. Usually this so-called "oblique" a filter equipped with a mesh that retains T solid suspensions. Mud filters on horizontal pipe sections must be installed with the beveled part down.
A mandatory element is a mesh filter for mechanical water purification from large inclusions As a rule, such filters are made of brass. There are also polymer models for polypropylene pipelines, but master plumbers do not praise them and still recommend installing brass ones.
- According to the technical conditions for installing a water meter, which are in force in many regions of the country, it is necessary to install a check valve after the water meter. This is done mainly in order to eliminate the possibility of the device readings being “rewinded” back, for example, by air flow, which some Cunning consumers sometimes try to achieve this by somehow connecting a vacuum cleaner.
However, this valve also has quite practical significance - it will not allow the impeller mechanism to remain dry in the event of an emergency - loss of water in the system. There should always be water in the water meter chamber - it provides a kind of “lubrication” of the support bearings (stones) of the impeller axis.
On vertical sections of the pipeline when water flows down up such a valve is installed not after, but before the water meter, preventing water from flowing out of the device chamber when the pressure in the system drops.
By the way, when buying a water meter, you need to pay attention to one more detail - some devices already have a built-in reverse valve in their design - in this case, installing an additional device will not be required. In addition, such a valve can be a design feature of the water meter connecting fitting.
So, if everything has been purchased and the location for installing the water meter has been determined, you can proceed directly to installation.
The universal installation diagram of the device is shown in the diagram:
“Classic” water meter connection diagram 1 – entrance from the water main.
2 – shut-off valve (faucet). Its type is not of fundamental importance. Nowadays, ball valves with a lever handle or “butterfly” are more often used. If the installation is carried out along a polypropylene pipe, you can also use a special polymer tap, but only when you are confident in its quality, since, judging by the reviews, they are not always highly reliable. Many craftsmen recommend installing high-quality metal valves, which, by the way, will be easier to replace in case of failure.
An important note: if a ball valve is installed, it should not be used to regulate the intensity of the water flow. It should have two standard positions - “open” or “closed”. The half-closed state of such a valve leads to its rapid wear.
3 – “oblique” mud filter, which was already mentioned above.
4 – connecting fittings with American union nuts (5), usually included in the delivery package of the water meter.
6 – water meter.
7 – check valve. Its “classic” location is shown. In a vertical section with upward flow, it should be moved to a position between the filter and the connecting fitting.
8 – entrance to the internal water supply distribution. All water points without exception are allowed to be connected only after the meter.
Video - Basic guidelines for installing a water meter yourself
- Before proceeding with installation, you should first lay out all the elements in the order in which they will be assembled. In this case, special attention should be paid to the arrows marked on the bodies of the products - they indicate the direction of water flow. A mistake in this matter is unacceptable - the system simply will not work.
In order not to make mistakes in the future, it is recommended to first arrange all the elements in the order of their location... - Now it is advisable to carry out the general assembly of the entire structure on the table “dry” without using seals. This is necessary to pre-calculate the number of thread turns for correct assembly (for example, so that the oblique part of the filter is guaranteed to be at the bottom), and to determine the total installation length of the resulting assembly. The resulting length must be compared with the existing section of the pipe on which the water meter is planned to be placed.
... and then perform dry assembly. Be sure to check the location of the arrows - the direction of water flow If you are “lucky” and there is the possibility of such a direct installation, then installation will be greatly simplified. But in some cases, the conditions for the location of pipes can force one to come up with more complex schemes - this will be discussed below.
- It is advisable to start the installation by installing a shut-off valve. This will require turning off the water supply to the intra-house main, so it is better to carry out this stage immediately so as not to leave the entire riser without water supply for a long time.
After the specialist responsible for this has closed the riser, you can begin installation work. Usually there is always a tap at the entrance to the apartment from the riser. The pipe after the old tap must be cut with a grinder. In this case, a certain amount of water will definitely flow out of it - you should prepare a basin. Then you need to try to unscrew the old valve.
If everything is fine, the valve has been unscrewed and the threaded part on the pipe is in normal condition, then you can pack a new valve. To do this, it is best to use flax tow with special sealing pastes “Multipack” or “Unipak” - this is guaranteed to ensure the tightness of the connection.
It’s worse if the tap does not budge, or the threaded part on the pipe is unsuitable for further use - rusted or deformed. You will have to cut it off with a grinder and cut a new thread with a tool.
- After the new tap is “packed”, it must be closed, and then the water supply to the entire riser can be resumed. All further internal installation work will be carried out from the installed valve.
“Packed” unit: oblique filter + connecting fitting with union nut - The next step is to screw together and pack the “oblique” filter and the meter connecting fitting. The assembled unit can be screwed into the faucet, taking into account the number of turns so that the filter bevel is at the bottom.
- Next, the second connecting fitting and the check valve are assembled into a single unit. Funny, but very common A mistake made by novice home craftsmen is to “pack” the fittings, forgetting to put the “American” union nuts on them. You have to take it apart and rebuild it again.
- The next, most important stage is connecting to the existing plumbing in the apartment. If it is made of steel VGS pipes, then it is recommended that the section from the meter to the nearest threaded connection suitable for tapping be made of plastic or polypropylene pipe - this will greatly simplify the work. The fitting transition is screwed onto the polymer pipe, a section of the required length is laid, which also ends with a fitting. The distance is maintained such that after connecting the prepared “fitting + valve” assembly to it, the required installation length of the water meter is maintained. For convenience of work, so as not to make a mistake, you can attach a water meter to the inlet and outlet “American” - this will make it easier to determine the required area.
If the wiring is already made of polymer pipes, then no special problems should arise at all.
A good example is meters mounted on metal and polypropylene pipes - After this unit is assembled, you can install the sealing gaskets and make the final installation of the water meter with the “American” tightening. Rubber gaskets are usually included in the kit, and experienced craftsmen still recommend replacing them with paronite gaskets of the same diameter. When tightening the union nuts, the required location of the meter scale is immediately established - so that it is as convenient as possible to take readings.
Very often, apartment owners combine the installation of a water meter with the modernization of the entire intra-apartment wiring and converting it to plastic or polypropylene. After the meter, you can install a collector comb, from where you can “distribute” water to the points of consumption.
It is much more difficult to get out of a situation where the conditions of the room and the location of the pipes in it do not allow for “classic” piping of the meter. You have to use imagination and ingenuity in order to place all the required design elements in a limited space.
So, for example, hot and cold pipes may be located too close to each other, and you have to go to the side with a bend:
The insertion section may be too short - then you will have to install hinges to ensure the placement of all the components:
It happens that water pipes are hidden in niches or boxes, but here you can find a good solution:
- After the water meter and all subsequent communication water supply units have been installed, the correct installation has been checked again, and a test run can be carried out. The shut-off valve must open very smoothly, gradually filling the system with water, in order to avoid water hammer, which can damage the metering device. To do this, open the tap at one of the water points to allow air to escape from the pipes.
After the system is filled with water, you can open the valve completely. The water tap is closed and all connections are checked visually to ensure there are no leaks. If everything is normal, then the installation work can be considered complete.
Video: master class on installing water meters in a high-rise building
What to do after installing a water meter yourself
The first step after installing water meters is to invite the responsible employee of the water supply or housing maintenance organization. He must check the correctness and reliability of the installation of the device and seal it. Both union nuts on the connecting fittings must be sealed, which makes it impossible to dismantle the meter independently. In addition, the plug on the filter will probably be sealed, since unauthorized water can be drawn through this hole. Very often, an additional seal is placed on the plastic retaining ring connecting the lower part of the device to the housing of the counting mechanism.
An employee of the management organization will take the readings available on the scale on Mom nt pl ombration. It should be remembered that the transition to payment by meter will be made from this moment, regardless of when the device was installed and how many cubic meters it has already accumulated. The readings taken at the time of registration become the starting ones. This will be reflected in the acceptance certificate and in the product passport. At the same time, a deadline will be set for the next control verification of the water meter.
During operation, certain rules should be followed:
- It is not allowed to carry out welding work on metal areas of indoor wiring.
- The section of the water supply system with the meter must be securely fixed so that there are no vibrations in it, otherwise the device will quickly lose its functionality.
- Water hammer in the system should be avoided. If the water supply to the house is stopped, then, if possible, the inlet valve should be temporarily closed, and when opening, follow the same principles as when the meter was initially put into operation.
- If there is a possibility that the permissible value will be exceeded, a gearbox should be installed.
- The meter must be constantly filled with water - how this is achieved was described above.
- It is necessary to ensure the cleanliness of the external surface of the device, to prevent the accumulation of dirt or dust on it, or the ingress of chemical active substances.
- If the pressure in the system has noticeably decreased, the filter mesh is likely clogged. It is easy to clean - unscrew the plug and wash the mesh with a stream of water. However, do not forget that the cork is in a sealed state, and to carry out these actions it is necessary to invite a responsible employee of the management organization. It is prohibited to independently violate the integrity of the seal.
- When the next inspection is due, it is necessary to ensure that the device is delivered to the appropriate metrology laboratory. You should not do this yourself - suspicions may arise about unauthorized water withdrawal. It is better to invite a specialist who will dismantle the water meter and temporarily install another meter or simply a connecting pipe in its place. During the inspection period, payment will be made in accordance with current daily water consumption standards. By the way, some metering devices do not need to be completely dismantled - only the upper counting mechanism is sent for verification tests.
Video: An example of how water meters are verified
The verification procedure, with calling a technician for dismantling, carrying out the tests themselves, reinstalling and sealing, is, as a rule, a paid service and can be expensive. On forums on the Internet, there are many recommendations to simply purchase a new meter at the time of inspection - this may turn out even cheaper, especially since the old device should have paid for itself more than once. In this case, a new one should be chosen with exactly the same installation length. In this case, installing a new water meter will not be difficult - it is simply installed in place of the old one.
Good afternoon, dear guests and regular readers of the Electrician's Notes website.
Today I will tell you how to properly install and install an electric meter.
The installation of an electric meter is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the regulatory document, in accordance with the section on electricity metering.
1. Room
Electric energy meters must be installed in dry rooms and they must be located in convenient and accessible places for their maintenance. The temperature in such rooms should not be below 0°C and above 40°C.
If the temperature regime is difficult to organize, then it is necessary to provide insulation during the winter period, for example, install it in an insulated cabinet with the possibility of heating.
2. Installation location
Electricity meters are allowed to be installed in the following places:
- on the wall
- on panels and metering boards
- in closets
- in the relay compartments of the switchgear (complete switchgear)
3. Fastening
Electricity meters can be mounted:
- on metal shields
- in plastic shields and boxes (an example of installing a meter in an apartment)
- on wooden panels
4. Height
Installation and installation of electricity meters is carried out at a height of 800-1700 mm from the floor level, and also preferably at human eye level - for ease of maintenance and taking readings. This is strong evidence that we are at an unattainable height. Read more about this here.
5. Tilt angle
Induction electricity meters must be installed with an inclination angle of no more than 1°C. If this condition is not met, an additional error will occur.
6. Overall dimensions of cabinets, niches and panels
The most important condition for the overall dimensions of cabinets, niches and panels for installing electricity meters:
- easy and convenient access to the electricity meter terminals and (if any)
- convenient opportunity for
7. Connecting wires to the electric meter
When connecting wires to the electricity meter, the following conditions must be observed:
- strip wires with a length of at least 12 (mm)
8. Switching devices
To quickly and safely replace electric meters with voltages up to 0.4 (kV), it is necessary to install a switching device (circuit breaker, fuses) in front of them at a distance of no more than 10 meters. More details about this.
Most often, the energy supply organization sees a method of theft or deception in installing a circuit breaker in front of the meter. Therefore, I recommend placing the circuit breaker in advance in a special plastic box that has an “eye” for sealing it.
P.S. Be sure to read my article about problems with the energy supply organization -
81 comments on the post “How to properly install an electric meter”
Now I will know how to install and install an electric meter. Thank you for the useful and detailed information.
Your site is a must-read for every man.
Ha ha ha funny video
The site is just a godsend for men
Regarding the eighth point, I would also like to add that this is a requirement of the PUE, which the power supply organization does not want to comply with in most cases, you wrote about the reason correctly.
Is it possible to cover a counter mounted on a metal panel on the wall with a chipboard cabinet with an MDF door? Will this be a violation?
Can. But why don’t you put it in a plastic box, it will be aesthetically pleasing.
The meter is not installed correctly; according to the PUE, it is necessary to install test blocks or boxes of the KIU3 type to allow safe servicing, because CT secondary circuits cannot be opened; in this case, the package circuit breaker does not provide safety (the box will cost less and the “electricians” will not find fault, there are requirements for the need to seal the metering circuits)! Also, according to the PUE, the installation height of the meter is from 0.8 to 1.7 meters, but is allowed from 0.4 m. When connecting 3-phase meters, it is necessary to observe the phase rotation, as well as the polarity of the secondary winding of current transformers (CTs), it is necessary to leave a reserve wires at least 5 cm. Stripping of the conductor should be carried out depending on the size of the terminal block of the meter, so that the insulation does not get under the clamps and the bare wire does not come out from under the terminal block cover. Modern microprocessor meters display the correctness of phase rotation and, moreover, practically do not change their error when it changes, but legally the energy supply organization will be right if it indicates an incorrect connection diagram. There are also bags with special caps that allow you to seal contacts. Installing the meter is easy, but you need to carefully study all the nuances.
Andrey, you probably haven’t read my articles: and about .
In this article, the counter is installed correctly. The inspector checked everything and put seals on it. Have you ever seen that in a residential private house the meter was installed through a terminal block?
Help me decide the “correct” height for installing a matrix meter on a street pole. The meter is installed outside normal reach, and the power grid obliges!!! use a stepladder to take readings. Requests and complaints about reinstalling the meter below are not responded to.
thank you, the article is useful. The question is that the meter is already installed at a height of 2.2 meters and they refuse to transfer it, what should I do?
Everything is fine, understandable, but the question is a little off topic. LENELEKTRO meter - what kind of alarm is in it, a red diode blinks under load, next to the arrow there is something like a diode. What is their role and what are they “talking about”?
Sergey, a red LED indicates the presence of current in the circuit, i.e. The greater the load consumed, the more frequently it blinks.
My store had a counter installed in the toilet. During the repair, I completely replaced the wiring and after re-sealing, the electrical network workers gave me an act to move the meter to another location. I refused the transfer. This room is not particularly damp. And before I purchased this store, the counter was there and no one cared about it. Are the actions of power grid workers correct?
Sergey, what is written in the act - what is the reason for the transfer.
Hello! Extremely useful site, thank you very much to the admin!!! Actually, my question is, does an energy-saving company have the right (legally) to refuse to commission the meter for me? (I’m going to install the meter myself). I don’t have permission. The building is an apartment building. P.S. I have been working in construction for 20 years, during which time I have mastered several related professions. I always do electrical work, plumbing, and much more at my sites, but I have never been refused commissioning. Thank you.
Tell me, the technical specifications were issued for 10 kW (but this is not enough for the present time), the system is three-phase, connect 4 4x16 SIPs. I want to install the meter immediately at 100A (so that there is a reserve), which machine before the meter and after (so that there is a reserve, because there is no power limiter. What if the real consumption will be more than 10 kW). The energy supply organization may prohibit installing the meter and machines at higher power. what is written in the technical specifications for joining.
Thank you
Vladimir, the nominal value of the input machine must be indicated in the technical specifications. For a 10 (kW) three-phase load this is 16 (A). The meter can be set to 100 (A) - there are no restrictions on this.
Dmitry, tell me this. As a supervisory organization, it will be able to control me if I install an electricity meter in my apartment, even though the input cable from the landing will run in my apartment at least 4 meters to the meter being installed. In other words, can I hide this cable in the wall or should it be visible along its entire length (to control unauthorized connections)?
In order to protect assemblies from theft of electricity, it is not necessary to install circuit breakers in boxes; it is enough to install plug seals on the screws of circuit breakers; fortunately, they are now available for all types of modern machines.
Alas, as the Consultant says, Resolution 530 has lost its force.
And the question is interesting. The meter is located on the staircase; I have not registered ownership of it in any way, but, according to the electric company, I am obliged to replace it at my own expense. There are a number of vague “legal acts”. Here, for example, are a couple. Civil Code, Article 543 clause 2: 2. In the case where the subscriber under an energy supply contract is a citizen who uses energy for domestic consumption, the obligation to ensure the proper technical condition and safety of energy networks, as well as energy consumption metering devices, rests with the energy supply organization....
Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of August 13, 2006 N 491, appendix, clause 7: “The composition of the common property includes an intra-house power supply system, consisting of ... to individual, common (apartment) electricity meters, as well as other electrical equipment located on these networks."
From the latter it follows that the meter installed on the stairs is a consumer
In November 2014 I decided to change the wiring in a private house. At the same time, I replaced the electric meter. On November 26, 2014, I wrote an application to have the seal removed. On November 27, 2014, he removed the old one and installed a new meter in the same place, and immediately reported this. Then I went three more times and demanded that they put a seal and register the meter. On December 26, 2014 (a month later) they finally came to put a filling. They immediately stated that they refused to seal it because the meter was located at a height of more than 170 cm from the floor and drove away. I tried it on. Yes, height 195cm. But the old meter stood at the same height for about 15 years and there were no complaints. It suits me, it’s convenient for me. Am I going to have to redo everything?
Apparently it will have to be installed no more than 1.7 m
Good article
Why does MESK require the installation of Matrix meters, but I want to install Mercury, it is cheaper, and they threaten not to issue a certificate of restrictions?!!!
Hello, are there any regulations for installing a meter on the street if there is a gas pipe nearby? There is no way to put it on a wall where there is no pipe! Thank you in advance!
Victor, good afternoon. According to the PUE, clause 7.1.50, the minimum distance from switches, plug sockets and electrical installation elements (this includes the electric meter) to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 (m). Thus, it is allowed to install a meter on this wall, where your pipe runs, but only on the condition that there is at least half a meter from the pipe to the meter.
Hello! Our company is engaged in the installation and sealing of meters for the population in apartment buildings. Now the question has arisen again about allowing our electricians to carry out work.
On the one hand, these are networks that are serviced by REU, and we need to write them a letter to gain access to our people. But on the other hand, there is paragraph 7 of Resolution 491 which states: “The composition of the common property includes the in-house power supply system up to individual, common (apartment) electrical energy metering devices.” That is, it turns out that the meter is no longer a property serviced by the REU and you can use it without permission from them.
Please tell me which way to go? Or are there any other regulatory documents on this issue?
Good afternoon I want to install a counter in the toilet. Is it possible or not?
Maria, you can, but if the relative humidity in the toilet is no more than 60%.
PUE, clause 1.5.27. Meters should be located in dry rooms that are easily accessible for maintenance, in a place that is sufficiently free and not cramped for work...
Please help. Now an electrician from the management company came to seal my meter at my request. On October 19, I submitted another application on my own along with the claim, and so they spent 4 days thinking about what to do and decided to start a war with me. The electrician measured at what height the meter hangs and issued an order to hang it low, they indicated in the order based on Chapter 1.5 of PUE-7, the order indicated that an unsealed meter gives them the right to disconnect me from the network. I don’t find such a chapter, because I have some kind of incomplete version of PUE-7, but as far as I know that height is recommended and not a strictly mandatory requirement, I can see the readings even without a chair. The electrician says that since I am so competent and the first to start, they will also resist. They just resist strangely, I immediately told him that where my meter hangs, that’s where it will hang and I won’t change anything. I submitted my application on the 19th, they were supposed to arrive within 3 days, I didn’t sign anything, so legally no one came to me if anything. If anyone knows, please provide a link to the rules to clarify whether I have to redo the meter or is it recommended there? And in general, as you would advise, my corridor is narrow and if I hang the meter at eye height, it will interfere purely physically, even furniture cannot be brought in.
Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation dated 04.05.2012 N 442
(as amended on 09/04/2015)
144. Metering devices must be installed at the boundaries of the balance sheet of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of adjacent entities of the retail market - consumers, producers of electrical energy (power) in retail markets, grid organizations that have a common boundary of balance sheet (hereinafter referred to as adjacent entities of the retail market), as well as in other places determined in accordance with this section in compliance with the requirements established by the legislation of the Russian Federation for the installation sites of metering devices. If there is no technical possibility of installing a metering device at the border of the balance sheet of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of adjacent entities of the retail market, the meter must be installed in a place as close as possible to the border of the balance sheet where it is technically possible to install it. At the same time, by agreement between adjacent entities of the retail market, a metering device to be used to determine the volume of consumption (production, transmission) of electrical energy of one entity can be installed within the boundaries of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of another adjacent entity.
Hello!
I ask for help, I am completely confused in the mutually exclusive recommendations of “experts”.
I have a double entrance to the house:
first: 3-phase and 4 wires of 25 sq. mm (SIP); second: 1-ph and 2 wires of 10 sq. mm (copper).
Inputs from different substations. Separate grounding has been performed.
I am concerned about the correct installation of a metering unit, consisting of two electricity meters: 1- and 3-phase. Where to combine zeros: before or after counters? How to eliminate double counting or, conversely, its absence? Will RCDs work on each of the four available phases? And what to do with grounding to make it the most reliable?
After the metering unit, it is planned to install an automatic transfer switch based on PF-60A for each phase - this seems to be the simplest option.
How can you avoid messing up with all this?
Sincerely, Vladimir.
But what should I do if I have a soldering box in front of the electrical cabinet with packets and a meter, and there are input wires on nuts, how can I seal it all?
Igor, this is not your problem, but a problem of the power grids. And it is easy to seal - the whole box as a whole, for example, using the same paper seals.
single-phase metering for a private house, which machine should be installed before the metering device - one- or two-pole, is there any technical regulation for this? I would like to know the section and paragraph of the PUE to tell the controller
When installing an electric meter on a private house, should the meter be immediately sealed or what?
When should the filling be placed? when installing the meter?
Darima, after installing the meter, invite an inspector. He will check the connection diagram, draw up a report () and install a seal.
I changed the electric meter in a private house. The electricians don’t want to seal it until I put the meter in a box. The electric meter is located indoors. Are there any instructions on this matter?
Yuri.
According to GOST R 51732-2001 “Input and distribution devices for residential and public buildings. General technical conditions"
- concept of ASU: Low voltage electrical device containing equipment that provides the ability to input, distribute and account for electricity, as well as control and protect outgoing distribution and group electrical circuits in residential and public buildings, which is located in the form of appropriate functional blocks in one or more connected between each other (mechanically and electrically) panels or in one cabinet, depending on the type of building according to 3.2
And according to the PUE, if the input distribution device is not located in a separate electrical room, then it must have protection not lower than IP31, that is, the equipment must be covered on all sides with a casing, and the casing should not be made of wood, but should ensure that fire does not spread through to the same GOST - either from steel or from special plastic with an appropriate certificate for fire resistance.
So at the electricity input there must be a box or panel installed in which the input and distribution switches, an electric meter and something else like a 300 mA RCD (mandatory according to fire regulations) and a surge suppressor (required for air input according to the standards) are installed together. PUE).
Thus, although the electrical network specialist was unable to substantiate his demands, he is right... It seems so to me.
Another thing is whether replacing the electric meter is the basis for changing third-party equipment.
There are no strict requirements and phrases in regulatory documents or in the same PUE that the meter must be in a closed casing when replacing it or even installing it. This is the situation today.
Good afternoon.
I have a couple of questions.
1. It's time to change the old meter in the apartment. The house is old, with high ceilings. Elektposhit stands under the ceiling. Previously, we entered the readings ourselves and climbed there ourselves using an existing stepladder. Then energy sales workers began to climb. They had no complaints about installing the old meter. And now it needs to be changed and, according to the rules, set much lower. But it doesn’t work lower; there’s a closet underneath. And on the side of the closet there are doorways. That is, it is impossible to lower the counter there. And moving it to the side turns out to be too far. Is it possible for me, in principle, to install a new meter in the old place, if there is a stepladder in the apartment to access it?
2. Along with the meter, I will also install a new electrical panel. In a small box, under sealing, there will be an input machine. And in a large plastic box there will be a counter and machines. Meter on DIN rail Neva 103/5. Will there be any quibbles in the sense that the meter seals (after sealing) will be covered by the front panel of the box and are inaccessible for control when readings are taken by energy sales employees? Maybe it's worth making holes in the box panel so that the seals are visible?
Hello!
In the question dated 07/01/15: “Hello, are there standards for installing a meter on the street if there is a gas pipe nearby? There is no way to put it on a wall where there is no pipe! Thank you in advance!"
You answered: “According to the PUE, clause 7.1.50, the minimum distance from switches, plug sockets and electrical installation elements (this includes the electric meter) to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 (m). Thus, it is allowed to install a meter on this wall, where your pipe runs, but only on the condition that there is at least half a meter from the pipe to the meter.”
I am interested in the following: a gas meter is installed on the street wall of a private house (on the corner of the house). But there is already an electrical supply to the house (an electrical meter and a 2-phase circuit breaker are installed on the wall and all this is in a special plastic box) from the corner of the house to the electrical structure 80 cm.
When installing a gas meter, Gorgaz says “you can’t get too close, the electricians will scold you”...
There is a point: “7.1.28. VU, ASU, main switchboard, as a rule, should be installed in electrical switchboard rooms accessible only to maintenance personnel. In areas prone to flooding, they should be installed above the flood level.
……
When placing VU, ASU, main switchboards, distribution points and group panels outside electrical switchboard rooms, they must be installed in places convenient and accessible for maintenance, in cabinets with a shell protection degree of at least IP31.
The distance from pipelines (water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains), gas pipelines and gas meters to the installation site must be at least 1 m.” the same document.
So which point should I focus on??????
I want both meters to be on the same wall, starting from the street of the house.
Good afternoon
I agreed with the RES to leave my meter in the house, but now they require VISIBLE wires to be installed to the meter, so that, according to them, I would not be able to steal electricity. In response to my question about the legality of this requirement, they sent me to read the PUE. I’m reading the PUE... If there are such requirements?
Thanks in advance!
Valery, since the times of the USSR, the same letters have always been read differently, but with different sides. Especially officials. Obviously, they already have the PUE not of the 7th, but of the 17th edition.
One of these days I will go to the chief engineer of the RES again. I’ll ask a question: on the basis of what specific clause of the PUE do they require the installation of OPEN wiring to the meter. I'll write about the results.
We were transferred to another energy company and they gave us an order to replace the meter, it is located on the street, but they refused to replace it themselves! As a result, the meter is hanging on the wires in the box, it was sealed! Now he produces 1000 square meters per month more than he already has, but I can’t achieve anything! Previously I paid for 300 kW, but now for 1300-1500, although energy consumption is maximum 250-300 kW. I don’t know what to do next and how to deal with it!
Hello. I live in a five-story apartment building. I want to change the input to the apartment (from the switchboard, I live on the 1st floor), install three phases and install a three-phase meter. Will they take him into account? or do you need to fulfill some additional requirements?
nia?
Sergey, in order to switch from single-phase input to three-phase, and accordingly, register three-phase metering in the apartment, you first need to submit an application and obtain permission. The fact is that the house power supply project does not provide for powering the apartments from a three-phase 380 (V) network, with the exception of residential buildings with luxury apartments. But if internal networks allow you to increase power consumption, then you will be given permission without any problems and will be given specifications that must be fulfilled. But the question is different?! Why do you need three-phase input in your apartment? Is there not enough power from one phase or are there three-phase consumers?!
Good afternoon, we bought a house in the village (the electric meter is old inside the house) and began to re-register the documents in our name, and Energosbyt set a condition: to place the meter on a street lighting pole in the yard. Is it possible for us to simply replace the old meter with a new one, but without taking it outside. Energosbyt engineers claim that without this we will not be able to re-issue the documents. Thanks in advance.
Good afternoon, I’m dealing with the redevelopment of an apartment here, I talked with the PIB engineer, and among other things, she gave the following: your meter is not installed correctly, it is on the outside wall of the bathroom, in an iron cabinet..
You write that it cannot be installed in wet rooms, but she claims that it can also be installed on the outer walls of these rooms. Tell me, is this true, and where is it written in the regulations?
Ilya, there are no prohibitions on installing meters on the outer wall of a bathroom in the Rules. It is only prohibited to install switchgear and control devices (PUE, clause 7.1.52), distribution boxes, as well as sockets and switches (PUE, clause 7.1.48) in the bathroom itself at a distance closer than 60 (cm) from the door opening of a shower stall or faucet. There are no prohibitions on the outer wall, especially if the meter is installed in a panel. By the way, what is the level of protection of the shield? What kind of design, external or internal? Next time, don’t get lost and ask the engineer which point of the Rules she refers to, let him indicate a specific point.
the cheapest metal hanging box, screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall through the holes inside without any gaskets, in theory, if water runs along the wall, it may well get into the panel.
The engineer is somehow having a hard time with specific documents...
I saw somewhere on the Internet that you can’t install it in rooms located under bathrooms and toilet units, maybe this plays a role, the neighbors have the same toilet unit, and if mine doesn’t leak, then their water flows just like this the wall might go
Ilya, here is the excerpt you mean. PUE, clause 7.1.29. Electrical switchboard rooms, as well as VU, ASU, main switchboards, are not allowed to be located under toilets, bathrooms, showers, kitchens (except for apartment kitchens), sinks, washing and steam rooms of bathhouses and other rooms associated with wet technological processes, except in cases where Special measures have been taken for reliable waterproofing to prevent moisture from entering the premises where the switchgear is installed.
Here we are talking about electrical switchboard rooms, input switchboards (IDUs) and main distribution boards (MSB), and not about distribution and group switchboards. And if we judge this way, then flooding may occur not only along the adjacent wall of the bathroom. In general, of course, it’s up to you to decide, but I answered your question. There is no explicit prohibition on installing an apartment panel on the bathroom wall. I’ll also add from my practice, in many new buildings where we carried out commissioning, apartment panels were installed precisely on the wall with the bathroom, and this was officially approved by the project and the relevant regulatory authorities.
Good afternoon 1.5 years ago, the Energy Management Company installed an electric meter at its own expense and assured that it was a 1-tariff meter, without providing the meter’s passport. When submitting an application for the installation of a 2-tariff meter / purchased by me /, the company notifies me that the meter, The one they previously installed is a 2-tariff one and they are ready to transfer it to 2 tariffs. Can I insist on installing my new meter and how to do it, because... I incurred certain costs for the purchase of a meter and there is a suspicion that the meter is not working correctly / after installing their meter, large bills come /
How and with what did you establish that the SE is not working correctly? BEFORE this, what kind of SE did you have, with a wheel?
Good day!
They ordered me to change the electric meter (it worked for 15 years), with mandatory installation on the street.
I purchased the meter in a store with a passport, which has a factory verification stamp.
It was confiscated from me, supposedly for additional verification.
A week passed and the meter was returned.
I installed the meter myself, since I have some knowledge in electrical engineering.
The old meter has not been removed, it is sealed and is in the house.
I wrote an application to seal a new meter and received an answer that checking the correct installation of a new electric meter is a paid service and only after payment they will come, check and seal it.
Is this legal?
By the way, since I now have both electric meters working, I recorded the readings of both and came to the conclusion that the new meter counts 1 kW more in 24 hours. It turns out that 365 kW per year will have to be paid extra....
If only you could write at least a word about the full name of the new and old SE.
You never know what and where you purchased, what is the MPI of this SE? Guess?
Hello. Please explain about mounting electric meters on wooden panels. Does this mean that meters can be installed on removable chipboard panels that cover the electrical shaft in an apartment building on the staircase.
Vitaly, according to the PUE, it is possible. But, according to common sense, I would not recommend it! It is better to use plastic, metal or other non-flammable materials.
This fluff is chipboard, not for such use. If that’s what you want, then I’d take bakelite plywood - it’s durable, doesn’t rot, isn’t afraid of moisture, absorbs very little of it, and doesn’t just burn. And the view is decent.
Thanks for the answer about removable panels. But this means that the rules allow meters to be mounted on doors.
Well, why distort? Removable does not mean anything except that they are not a monolithic fragment of a wall, but a kind of built-in/removable/replaceable structural element.
Any wall-mounted or built-in wall panel/box/cabinet is also replaceable/replaceable, or is it comparable to a window?
I'm talking about the cover that covers the electric riser. shaft, and not just about some decorative/built-in/removable/replaceable structural element.” This cover, along the edges, is attached to the wall. Unscrew the fasteners and take the meter away.
And yet, I have never seen a meter on the electric cover. panel or cabinet with el. equipment.
This is your first message about the lid, you should have written like that right away.
Dear Admin! Today a conflict arose with local distribution zones - they were replacing a PU in a 0.4 kV cell of a Soviet-era street transformer 10/0.4 kV - 400 kVA. The metering inspector arrived and stated that the control panel needed to be taken outside, saying that the transformer substation was a 10 kV electrical installation and should not have meters in it. Frankly speaking, I sent him to hell...!
...retraining. After all, nowhere, as far as I remember, does it say that it is impossible to install PUs in cells of 0.4 kV transformer substations. I'm right?
Hello, can you tell me about an old private house and a meter on the wall inside, the wires to the meter are laid in the wall, is it necessary to lay the wires to the meter openly (like it’s clear that we’re not stealing) and are there pue points about this?
What do they demand?
Hello. We live in SNT. We recently completely changed the wiring in the house to hidden, and installed a new meter in the old place. The main cable runs, as before the replacement, from the attic through a hole in the ceiling via the shortest route directly into a box no more than 3 meters long. Our local electrician refused to seal the meter, arguing that the cable should go outside around the perimeter of the house and enter through a hole in the street wall, openly going down to the box. Taking into account these requirements, this means that instead of 3 meters, it will be necessary to pull all 10, and drill a wall at least 40 cm thick. The electrician himself admits that most of the houses are sealed without taking these requirements into account. Are his claims legitimate or can they be challenged?
Argue if it helps. SNT has its own rules, with whom will you argue?
To begin with, I would like to ask you to familiarize yourself with the official decision of SNT on the standards for installing electricity, if there is one. When they came to remove the old meter, they verbally warned that there were restrictions of 20 amperes, not a word about the cable on the street. This issue was not raised at the meetings either. The meter at my parents’ house was sealed a year ago, no problem. Now the electrician has changed, and with him new rules. It’s true that it’s not yet clear who wrote them...
Oh, mom, it seems you don’t understand the difference between the terms OFFICIAL and SNT DECISION. Well, it turned out that we agreed, decided and bypassed your notorious “official” decision, it happens.
And in conclusion - if it’s OFFICIAL, then... It’s true that it’s not yet clear who wrote it... how to understand it?
All these local issues are decided according to the place where they appear; what kind of officialdom are we talking about? Even the court will not consider this. Believe me.
Yes, you are right, I don’t understand either the difference or the logic. There is a solution to why they weren’t familiarized with it; there’s no such thing, which means they have to seal it.
Thanks for the advice.
Sorry, but your questions go beyond electrics! Well, who is to blame that you were not allowed to read the decision of the meeting, the SNT council, against receipt, why didn’t you ask? Why your neighbor has this, but they demand something different from you, also does not apply to electricians.
The time has come to replace the MPI meter in a private house in a village in the Moscow region. I calculated the maximum load with all devices turned on, it is 7.2 kW. I want to install a 32 A input machine to the meter, since the village is not gasified and I cook food on an electric stove. But the Mosenergosbyt electrician wants to install a machine with only 25 A, that is, a total power of 5 kW. In the village, the power lines and general equipment have been modernized and new ones have been installed. There is no contract for the maximum power supply to my house, since the old meter is 40 years old.
Please tell me which document describes these norms. I want to install a single-phase multi-tariff meter.
This is all up to local service providers. They give you 25 - take it, they often limit it to 16 amperes.
Just because you counted 7 kW does not mean that all of this is turned on at the same time.
Considering the look of your ancient wiring in the photo, it’s not worth talking about 25 amperes.
For an ordinary person, such work as installing and connecting a meter seems like a super-complicated task that only an experienced and qualified electrician can do. We would like to assure you that the process seems complicated at first glance, but in reality everything is very simple. We will tell you in detail how to quickly and correctly install an electric meter.
There are electromechanical and electronic meters, but their connection diagram and installation principle are absolutely the same. The meter can be mounted either on a single panel or in an electrical panel. It is installed at a height of 1-1.7 meters from the floor, so that it is convenient to take readings, and if necessary, it can be changed without much difficulty. In modern conditions, the electric meter and protective devices are mounted in special cabinets and boxes. They can be made of either iron or non-flammable plastic. Electrical cabinets come in different sizes to accommodate different amounts of equipment installed. First you need to hang the box at a given height. Place it as level as possible, without distortions or tilts. If the wall is brick, then you need to mark where the mounting holes will be and drill them. Then you should insert the dowels and hang the box. If the wall is wooden, then you can simply fasten it with screws. The cabinet or box must be secured with four screws in the corners. Mounting meters can be either screw-mounted or DIN-rail mounted. If for screws, then the panel will indicate a place for the meter, screw it here. If the meter is for DIN rail, then just put it on. Now we need to install circuit breakers. How many amperes you will have should be indicated in the project documentation. Mounting circuit breakers are now produced only for DIN rails. Two machines will be placed in front of the counter to make it convenient to change it if necessary. It is better to install wires in the switchboard by color, for convenience. Connect the electricity supply to the first two machines. Apply phase to the first, and zero to the second. Then remove the protective cover of the electric meter terminals. Connect the phase wire from the first machine to the first terminal of the meter, and the zero wire to the second.
This is not a particularly difficult job that can be done by any owner who knows how to hold a screwdriver in his hands. And remember that all work is carried out with the electric current turned off!
Typically, metering devices are installed by organizations providing certain services. In this case, it is a meter for electrical energy and the electrical network or housing office. However, installing an electric meter yourself is not prohibited. The only thing is that a specialist must check the work and seal the metering device.
Thus, connecting an electric meter with your own hands in an apartment or private house is a very real and feasible task. But this must be done correctly and taking into account all installation requirements. This will help avoid many problems, including accidents at the substation or in the house, fire and, finally, electric shock. And an incorrectly connected meter will not be accepted for use.
How it works and what it counts
First of all, what does he think? He believes, more precisely, reads electricity consumption, which is usually expressed in watts per hour(Wh). A watt is a unit of power, and an hour, of course, is a unit of time. It is for the watts used that we pay. Please note - not for amperes or volts, but for watts. How much does the same hundred-watt light bulb consume? It “eats” a hundred watts, that’s why it’s a hundred watt.
But the amount of payment for its use will depend on the time during which this light bulb was on. Thus, the tasks of the electrical energy meter include calculating the power of electrical appliances operating at each moment in time and counting the time during which this power was consumed. As a result, at the output we get the so-called kilowatts per hour kW/h, for which we pay. Kilowatts - because we spend so many watts that it’s easier to add the prefix “kilo” (by analogy with kilogram and gram) rather than writing an extra three zeros.
How he does it
P = I x U
Almost all electricity meters do this. Mechanical - using the principle of eddy currents, which is quite difficult for a non-specialist to understand, electronic - using analog or digital processing of signals coming from current and voltage sensors. The data obtained is accumulated over time and, say, after a week you can read on the indicator (mechanical or electronic - it doesn’t matter) the readings corresponding to the amount of energy consumed in Wh. or kW/h.
What are the types
All current metering devices for electricity consumption can be divided into three groups:
- Mechanical;
- Electromechanical;
- Electronic.
Just a dozen or two years ago, all electricity meters were mechanical. Eddy currents, created by current flowing through a special bus, spun the metal disk. The disk itself was placed in a magnetic field, which was higher the higher the voltage. A regular mechanical counter counted the disk revolutions. These counters were very capricious (they, for example, had to be installed strictly vertically), their accuracy directly depended on the quality and condition of the mechanical components of the counting mechanism and was low. Such a counter could be easily “deceived” by creating a strong magnetic field near it (in other words, bring a magnet to the disk).
Probably everyone knows the mechanical counter-this real example of an old product is still working in garages and cottages
Later appeared electronic-mechanical devices. The first calculated power using electronic methods, but had a mechanical meter. The second are completely electronic, having a microcontroller, memory and a display of one type or another. Today, conventional mechanical meters are almost universally replaced by electronic ones. Firstly, electronic ones are much more accurate, more durable and better protected from sabotage (deception). Secondly, a modern electronic electricity meter is able to independently transmit data to the service provider via a separate line. Using the same line, you can control the device - switch the day/night tariff, disconnect the consumer, for example, for non-payment, etc.
Electronic-mechanical (left) and electronic electricity meter
What you need to know before installation
If you decide to install an electric meter yourself, then you will have to pay attention to some features of proper connection. Some conditions must be met in accordance with existing requirements, others will ensure safe operation.
Before you start installation, ask the supplier what kind of electricity meter can be installed and where it can be placed. In private homes, for example, many electrical networks require that metering devices be installed outside the building, and the supply from the supplier must be made with a single cable and not have switching devices. Some people allow you to place, say, a machine in front of the meter, but demand that it be placed in an electrical panel next to the meter so that the whole thing can be sealed.
If the electrical panel is metal, it will require grounding, which means the manufacture of a grounding loop. In general, there are many nuances, so be sure to clarify so as not to redo it. As for the type, you should not install an old mechanical meter - if they are still “in fashion” in your region, they will soon go out of fashion, and you will have to spend money on buying an electronic-mechanical or electronic one.
Next point. Any electric meter has its own verification period. The new meter has already been verified by the manufacturer, and the period until the next test begins to “snap off” from the moment of purchase of the device (according to the sales date stamp in the passport). So if your device has been lying in the closet, even if it’s brand new, for five years, then before you install it, you will have to take it to the appropriate organization for verification. You will have to trust the device too; it is impossible to determine the date of the previous verification - there are no corresponding verifications on the case, there are no documents for the device. After inspection, both the manufacturer and the testing organization seal the device and this seal must not be broken!
For installation and connection, the meter has a separate hatch with a cover. You can install the device and make the necessary switching without damaging the main seal. But when the work is finished and the electricians accept it, they will seal this hatch and, perhaps, the entire electrical panel (if the device is outdoors and has additional switching means to which you are prohibited from access). Now you can only take readings from the device by direct observation and nothing more.
One final note. If your network is single-phase, then you will only need to connect a single-phase meter. If it is three-phase, then you will have to buy a three-phase device. Is it possible to install a three-phase meter in a single-phase network? Theoretically it is possible. The device will regularly count electricity in one phase, the other two will simply be inactive. In practice, the electricity supplier will not allow it just in case. “Why, if it costs 3 times more?” There are fewer misunderstandings for them - they can sleep better.
Electric meter installation
So, the meter has been purchased, all the details of installation in a specific location have been clarified from the electricity supplier. Suppose you decide to install a single-phase meter on the street. Here you will need an electrical panel to protect from the weather and from vandals. Yes, did you remember to ask the electricians at what height their organization is allowed to hang the meter? Hang it at the maximum allowed, since an electrical panel, especially a plastic one, is no protection against vandals and burglars.
Now it's routine. Attach the meter to the panel together with switching devices (if provided). You climb the ladder and fasten the shield to the wall in one way or another - with dowels, nails, bolts, shoot it with a mounting gun, weld it - it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that the fastening is strong, reliable and durable.
A dilemma arises here: if the shield is plastic, it will only protect the meter from bad weather. If it is iron, it needs to be grounded. Which option to choose is up to you. If you have a ready-made grounding loop at your disposal or are able to make it (in a private home this is not a problem and the issue is not discussed in this article), then, of course, a metal one is better. The meter itself, after installing the shield, must hang vertically - this is stipulated in the relevant provisions and is written in the device passport.
The metal shield (left) is stronger, but requires grounding, unlike its plastic counterpart
If you install the meter in an apartment, you can use an open electrical panel. Switching and protection devices - automatic machines, RCDs or ordinary “plugs” - will fit perfectly on the same shield. You will have access to them, since electricians will only seal the meter.
How to connect an electricity meter correctly
The meter is installed, shielded, if necessary, grounded. All that remains is to do the wiring. You climb onto a stepladder with a voltage indicator (in everyday life - a “screwdriver indicator”) and find out which input wire you have is neutral and which is phase. You go to the electricians and ask them to turn off the power supply to your country house, and at the same time get their word of honor that they will not “turn on” the lights without your permission. In this regard, almost all electricians adhere to clear rules and if they say they won’t turn it on, they won’t turn it on.
If you turn off the light yourself, say, on a house switchboard, be sure to place an observer, since all these signs are like “Do not turn on, people are working!” for the majority of our population - nonsense. Half of the people never read anything, but immediately click all the switches in a row. The second half, it seems, can’t read at all.
Back on the stepladder. Check that there is no voltage at the input and you can work. Almost all electric meters are connected in the same way. They have input and output terminals. The input terminals are supplied with voltage from the supplier's line (input), and you take energy from the output terminals for your own needs. The terminals of single-phase meters are usually arranged in the following order:
- Input phase wire;
- Phase output;
- Input neutral wire;
- Output zero.
If you do not install anything before the meter, then run the input cable directly into the meter terminals, and you must not confuse phase and neutral! If you place, for example, a machine in front of the electric meter, then run the cable to it, and connect the machine itself with pieces of single-core wire of the appropriate cross-section to the meter input. Now you carry out the wiring after the electric meter, connecting all kinds of protective devices, RCDs, fuses, etc. If there is nothing of the kind, simply connect the cable going into your house to the output terminals of the electric meter. For example, below is a diagram of connecting a meter with a protection system installed both before and after the meter itself.
An example of how to connect an electric meter to a single-phase network
The input circuit breaker protects the line from short circuits and allows you to de-energize the meter and everything after it manually. Immediately behind the electric meter there is an RCD that protects the house network from leakage currents, and the house network itself is divided into three lines, each of which is protected from short circuits by its own circuit breaker. Please note that the ground wire (green) is not broken anywhere and is not connected anywhere - neither to the meter nor to the machines. It serves to ensure the safety of using electrical appliances and nothing more.
How to connect a three-phase meter
The only difference between a three-phase electric meter and a single-phase one is that it has not two, but four inputs (three phases and zero) and, accordingly, four outputs:
- 1, 2 - Input/output phase A;
- 3, 4 - -//- V;
- 5.6 - -//- C;
- 7, 8 - Zero input/output.
The diagram for its inclusion, which, by the way, is also in the accompanying documentation, looks like this:
How to connect an electric meter to a three-phase network
Do-it-yourself electric meter repair
Unfortunately, the electric meter is not a device that everyone can fix with their own hands, like, say, an iron or a table lamp. First of all, its case is sealed and after opening the device, it will have to be carried for verification. However, this would have to be done in any case. Modern electronic and electronic-mechanical meters are quite complex (no simpler than a washing machine or even a mobile phone), so to repair it you need to have special knowledge in electronics at the level of an institute. Therefore, to answer the question “How to fix an electric meter?” in the scope of a small article it is impossible, just as it is impossible to outline in three words instructions for repairing, for example, a PC or a GLONASS satellite.
As for mechanical devices, in principle, if you are familiar with mechanics and the basics of electrical engineering, you can try to repair it by assembling, say, one of two or simply cleaning and lubricating it, because it is mechanical and most often the cause of the problem is dust and moisture. But, it’s worth repeating, if you open the device’s case, it will need to be double-checked by the appropriate organization. Without opening, you can only replace the burnt terminals with which the meter is connected, but even here you will have to invite a representative of the service provider (controller or electrician), who will remove his seal from the terminal cover, and after completing the repair, put it in place, having first checked the connection of all wires .
The main purpose of the electric meter is to measure the level of electricity consumption. Typically, the installation of such equipment is carried out by specialized employees, but if you wish, you can handle the installation of the electric meter yourself. The main thing is to carefully prepare for the upcoming event and do everything in accordance with the instructions, because if you install it yourself, all responsibility for the actions performed and possible consequences will rest solely with you.
Depending on the mechanism of action, electricity meters are divided into electronic and induction. Induction equipment is gradually being forced out of the market, mainly on the initiative of the government - such meters are very easy to “deceive”.
Electronic electricity meters are characterized by higher accuracy, smaller dimensions and excellent versatility. For example, modern electricity meters support operation in multi-tariff mode. This advantage is relevant for regions where electricity tariffs vary depending on the time of day. Therefore, when choosing between induction and electronic equipment, preference should definitely be given to the latter.
Electricity meters are classified according to the rated current value and accuracy indicators (class). The lower the class number of your meter, the less deviation it will work with.
To determine the approximate required rated current, divide the permissible value of active power provided by the network organization per consumer by the voltage of your network, i.e. 220V or 380V.
Typically, a higher power is allocated for a three-phase connection, however, the use of single-phase networks in domestic conditions is more appropriate and preferable.
Difficulties with connecting the meter arise in situations in which the owner needs to power a building with a design current above 100 A. In such conditions, direct “insertion” of the meter is not feasible. To install metering equipment, you will need to additionally connect current transformers.
The use of any intermediate components leads to an increase in the error in metering electricity consumption, so the transformer circuit must be properly planned. This task must be solved by a qualified specialist.
When choosing a meter, pay attention to the age of installation of the seal and the integrity of this element.
The state verifier's seal is attached to the screws of the casing of the metering device. The meter seal for a single-phase electrical network must be no older than 1 year. In the case of meters for three-phase networks, the maximum permissible period increases to 2 years.
You can handle the installation of an electric meter yourself without any problems. However, before you decide to “uncover” the pliers, obtain the necessary permits and other documents. To do this, contact your local network provider office with a request to issue technical specifications for the work. There you can conclude the necessary agreement.
The mentioned documents list a number of requirements that the user must fulfill before connecting the building to the power grid. The documentation also clearly delineates the responsibility between the electricity supplier and its consumer.
In accordance with current legislation, the homeowner must install a meter within his consumption networks. The best place to install the meter is a heated distribution panel in the house. However, recently, regulatory organizations have required that accounting equipment be installed strictly outside the residential premises and be freely accessible to inspection organizations.
For example, a representative of the network company may require that you install an electric meter on the facade of your house or even on a nearby power pole. All these points are discussed individually. Apartment owners are usually required to place the equipment in question in a common panel on the site.
According to official statements, electricity suppliers are forcing owners to install meters on the street to ensure accessibility to the device for the purpose of taking readings and performing maintenance. According to unofficial data, suppliers are trying to prevent the possibility of unauthorized access to metering equipment in order to steal electricity.
Electric meter connection diagrams
It is not necessary for a home master to understand any complex wiring diagrams for accounting devices. Therefore, we bring to your attention the most popular and basic options for connecting an electric meter.
The simplest option is a single-phase connection. To install such a network, you will need no more than 6 electrical wires without taking into account the load. The working “zero”, phase and ground cables are connected to the device input. Similar cables are placed at the output of the metering device.
For greater convenience and safety, it is recommended to install a circuit breaker in front of the meter. This device will automatically turn off the power supply in the event of an emergency.
Energy sales services do not have a very favorable attitude towards the mentioned switches. To avoid unnecessary problems and disputes, the switch should be sealed using a special plastic box, a DIN rail and the seal itself. All these additional devices cost little, take up virtually no space, and are very easy to install, so take a little time and save yourself from unnecessary headaches.
The design of the accounting installation contains special terminal blocks, also known as buses. This device is a copper strip fixed using special dielectric clamps. There are several holes in the bar through which wires are connected using screw terminals. This connection option is suitable for situations where there is a need to connect several separate wires into a single whole.
Video - How to install a single-phase electric meter
There are a number of important requirements that you will have to strictly comply with when installing an electric meter. First, review the safety regulations that apply to any electrical equipment.
It is not recommended to install an electric meter at sub-zero temperatures. Electronics do not tolerate cold very well - under its influence, the accuracy of measurements decreases.
For most household models of electric meters, the minimum permissible installation temperature is +5 degrees. Therefore, if the metering device is installed outdoors, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of installing it in a special heated and hermetically sealed cabinet.
The mounting height of the unit is 80-170 cm above the ground. If you install the counter lower or higher, it will simply be inconvenient for you to take numerical readings from the screen.
Electric meter connection procedure
Self-installation of an electric meter is carried out in a few simple steps.
First step. Prepare the necessary equipment for installation, namely:
Second step. Find out how many phases (1 or 3) your electrical network has. Calculate the required number of circuit breakers.
Third step. Install the meter into the panel housing. To fix the product, use the fasteners included in the kit.
Fourth step. Install circuit breakers. These devices are fixed to the DIN rail. The rail is pre-attached to the support insulators using screws. The machine itself is fixed on the DIN rail using a spring-loaded latch.
Fifth step. Install the protective and ground bus on insulators inside the panel body or on a special DIN rail. Use nuts and mounting screws to secure the elements. Place the busbars at a distance to prevent cable short-circuits.
Start installation by connecting the load to the machines, then connect the machines to the electric meter and only then connect the meter directly.
Sixth step. Connect all loads. The phase will go to the lower terminals of the machines, connect the “zero” to the “zero” bus, run the grounding cable to the corresponding ground bus.
Seventh step. Connect the upper terminals of the circuit breakers with jumpers. You can buy ready-made jumpers at a specialized store.
Eighth step. Connect the meter to the load. To do this, connect the “phase” output (represented by the third terminal of the electric meter) to the upper terminals of the circuit breakers, and connect the “zero” output (the fourth terminal of the electric meter) to the corresponding zero bus.
Ninth step. Attach the electrical panel housing to a wall or other flat surface at the optimal height for you.
Tenth step. Find the neutral, phase and ground wires. In the absence of grounding, the work will be extremely simple: you check each core using the indicator pointer, and it itself indicates the phase. If there is grounding, its core is usually placed in green.
Eleventh step. Turn off the power at home.
Twelfth step. Connect the “phase” wire to the first terminal of the electric meter, and the “zero” wire to the third terminal.
At this point, the independent connection of the electric meter is considered complete. Check the device at idle and begin to gradually apply the load. After the preliminary check, contact the energy sales office with a request for additional checking and sealing of the meter.
Good luck!
Video - Installing an electric meter yourself
