Installation of an electricity meter in a private house - connection diagram. Electric meter connection diagram: let's look at connecting a single-phase and three-phase electric meter step by step How to mount an electricity meter in a box

To install an electricity meter in an apartment, you do not need knowledge of certain installation technologies; any owner who owns basic tools can cope with such a task. In cases of self-installation of devices, violation of the installation procedure is not allowed. In addition, such actions are associated with the legal component of this event and must be registered at the nearest branch of the official supplier.

It should always be taken into account that the specified device, intended for metering the amount of electrical energy consumed, is the permanent property of the organization providing its services for the energy supply of a certain area of ​​​​the living space, within which the operation of the available power meter is allowed.

The use of electrical equipment is subject to certain rules, the responsibility for compliance with which rests with the user, as well as ensuring the integrity of the safety seals. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the organization exercising control can only allow the installation of an electric meter by the consumer when replacing faulty equipment, or when completely replacing the filling of the electrical network, or connecting the facility to the power supply.

The amount of payment for the use of electricity in a specific premises under its control is directly dependent on the accuracy of the electric meter readings. This creates the need:

• Check the idling speed of the electrical appliance.
• Counter error calculations.

In apartments, electricity meters are placed in switchboards located on the landing. In order to install an electric meter inside an apartment, you must have a dedicated electrical panel.

In the private sector, meters are installed in hallways or in special technical rooms. According to the new rules, the electric meter must be installed in places with free access to easily take readings from an electrical device without the need to penetrate the fences of the site. These requirements are designed to protect the electricity supplier from consumer fraud. Premises exposed to frost are not recommended for DIY installation of an electric meter in an apartment.

Models of electronic meters are adapted for use both in single-phase (utility) networks and three-phase (industrial) networks, depending on the location of their installation. Devices designed for installation in a single-phase network are distinguished by their lower price and simplicity of design. Among users who use electricity for domestic purposes, connections to a three-phase network are very rare.

The main criterion for distinguishing electricity meters is their operating principle. Currently the following options are available:

Based on the regulations from 1996, the requirements for the accuracy of electricity meter readings must meet the established limit of 2 - 2.5%. Why was GOST established, number 6570−96, according to the terms of which the accuracy requirements for the class of devices approved for use in domestic conditions must be at least 2.

Today, meters have been used that are capable of recording both active and reactive types of load. In public electrical networks to which all apartments, as well as private houses, are connected, it may be possible to install electric meters yourself. Here they use devices to account for the active component of electricity. Therefore, models with these characteristics will be subject to consideration.

If it is necessary to install an electricity meter of a two-tariff model or a three-tariff model at the consumer’s request, it will be necessary to obtain permission from the supplier providing the electricity supply service. In this case, a specific agreement will be drawn up, providing the consumer with additional opportunities. Over the past decades, the amount of power consumed in utility networks has increased significantly. This fact forces suppliers to create all kinds of conditions for transferring the population to two-tariff meters, which allow more accurate calculations.

Installing a two-tariff meter makes sense only if the consumer uses the maximum limits of his capacity during peak hours, when the network is already overloaded. The two-zone meter has a significant drawback. It is a rather expensive device; in addition, programming this device is also a paid service.

The main area of ​​application of three-tariff meter models is in the industrial zone, but current laws allow the use of this equipment in domestic conditions.

The next criterion that allows us to classify electric meters is the voltage and rated current. Connection of devices that are necessary for operation, in conditions where the rated current readings exceed the 100 ampere mark, is carried out using indirect connection using a current transformer. Such devices are used in three-phase networks that include consumers with high power. Only specialists with the established level of qualification are allowed to install these devices.

When choosing an electric meter model if it will be installed independently, it is necessary to record the time at which the seal was installed on the device body. According to the established rules, the installation time of the seal located on the device body should not exceed 1 year.

Connecting the device

Before you start connecting the meter to your electrical network, you need to prepare the place where it will be installed. In addition, all necessary tools, as well as materials with which the device will be installed, must be prepared in advance.

In modern stores that provide an assortment of electrical goods, you can choose an electrical panel suitable for installing an electric meter. Here you can find both fully equipped devices and any elements to complete them. In such a store you can purchase a meter equipped with an installation panel, which will greatly simplify its installation.

When installing the electric meter on the wall, it is necessary to fix its vertical position. The device should be installed in an electrical panel specially designed for this purpose or on an installation panel, which should be purchased in advance at an electrical goods store. There are no special standards defining the height of the meter, but there is a provision prohibiting the installation of the device in places inaccessible to direct visual contact. The recommended height of the meter is 1 meter 70 centimeters from the floor level.

Before you start connecting the electric meter yourself, you need to obtain accurate data on the electrical wiring layout in the selected room. The number of machines installed in the electrical panel is determined by the number of groups formed; powerful consumers (washing machine, boiler) are connected directly to the electrical panel to a separate machine.

The procedure for performing work when installing an electric meter yourself:

For comfortable operation of the electrical network, it is necessary to install signs on the machines that identify the groups connected to each of them.

This article covers in detail the question - how to correctly replace or install a water meter yourself, installation diagrams, how to choose a water meter, what tools and documents will be needed, etc.

Under the current conditions, the time for standardized water consumption has not yet arrived, but the first step towards this is to record its consumption using water meters.

Installing a water meter these days is required by Federal law (penalties are applied to force the population to install it), and in order for it to work correctly, a standard diagram for connecting a water meter in an apartment has been developed.

Is it possible to install a water flow meter yourself - what does the law say about this?

The ability to install a water meter yourself is not specifically stipulated by law; the law only obliges all citizens of the Russian Federation to have them available.

The only thing to save the population from the temptation to distort the readings of water meters is that sealing them independently is not allowed. All work must be performed by certified organizations that have the appropriate license.

At the same time, all water meters must meet the requirements of the standards and be included in the list of permitted installations in apartments. However, specialists from authorized organizations will offer the apartment owner certified water meters, with which there will be no problems.

You are allowed to install a water meter yourself, but the device will not be sealed and registered, so additional efforts will be required to register it.

Until 2012, in order to install a meter on a pipe, it was necessary to contact the territorial housing administration with a statement - the rules for installing water meters in an apartment did not provide otherwise. Now you can connect everything yourself.

Install the meter by representatives of the management company - registration procedure

Nowadays, you are allowed to install a water meter in your apartment yourself. But if you still decide to install the metering device by company representatives, you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Submit an application to the housing and communal services office according to the affiliation. Here you should be able to choose from a list of specialized organizations that install water meters for water in apartments
2. Next, you need to sign an agreement with the contractors for the installation of a water meter in the apartment and their further maintenance
3. Upon completion of the installation work in the apartment, a certificate of acceptance of the equipment and its commissioning is drawn up.
4. Simultaneously with drawing up the report, the water meter is sealed.
5. An agreement is concluded with the operating organization on the use of these devices to calculate payments for used water.

Install for free – to whom the law provides free installation of the device

It should be noted that according to the law, a certain group of citizens can install a water meter free of charge.

This service can be used free of charge by:

• citizens with a total income below the subsistence level;
• WWII participants;
• incompetent citizens belonging to the first and second groups;
• citizens raising disabled children.

In some regions of the country, the local government may supplement this list of citizens entitled to a free replacement by law (for example, pensioners); for completeness of information, this must be clarified with local authorities.

Installation diagram for a water meter in an apartment

It is possible to install a measuring device for general house use only in compliance with all the requirements of SNiP and in strict accordance with the project. Such work is performed only by specialized organizations. The situation is somewhat different with indoor water meters.

The rules for their installation have not been developed to this day, and this is unlikely to happen in the foreseeable future. The only thing is that you must strictly follow the installation instructions contained in the manual supplied with the device. Here are some provisions that must be adhered to:

1. Water meters in the apartment should be installed in easily accessible places with the obligatory condition of direct visual accessibility.

1. It is necessary to maintain the length of straight sections of the pipeline up to and behind the device.
2. Most apartment water controllers are equipped with the necessary pipes to solve the problem outlined in the previous paragraph.

Water must enter it through the filter (2). The meter (1) is connected to the pipework through a coupling (3). At the points where such a unit is connected to the pipeline, shut-off ball valves are installed to ensure that the internal wiring is disconnected if repairs or replacement are necessary without shutting off the riser.

It should be noted that it is preferable to use two types of filters - coarse and fine. This will ensure longer operation of not only the filters, but also the entire system as a whole.

In order not to interrupt the water supply during repairs or verification of the metering device, it is advisable to include in the wiring diagram bypass with ball valve. It will be a little cheaper to keep an insert of the required length in stock, which can be installed during repairs.

How to choose the right water meter

When selecting a water flow controller, it is necessary, first of all, to take into account the diameter of the internal distribution pipe. The recommended dimensions are indicated in the technical documentation for the meter and this circumstance must be taken into account first.

Last but not least, the cost of the meter matters. Having purchased the cheapest of the suitable options, you can make a mistake in another. You also need to take into account:

• warranty period and operating time;
• duration between verification period;
• ease of installation and assembly;
• the release date of the water meter, because during the time it is on the store shelf, its resource inexorably decreases.
• type of device - below we will consider in detail the main modifications, here we can briefly note that they are non-volatile and powered by an electrical network

The service life of cold water meters is usually about 6 years, and hot water meters - 4 years.

It should be noted that the next verification of metering devices (after 6 years for cold water and 4 years for hot water) rarely gives a positive result. As a rule, water meters are considered unsuitable for further use.

Place of installation of the water meter in the apartment

The generally accepted connection location is at the inlet riser. The shut-off valve is installed first, followed by all other equipment.

It must be remembered that the crane on the riser is the responsibility of the management company. If a malfunction is detected, you should contact them.

Replacing a water meter in an apartment, at whose expense is it carried out? There is no free replacement or installation. To work, you need to use a paid service from specialized services or companies. If possible, the work can be done independently, but registering the device in the apartment and installing a seal on it is the responsibility of the management company.

The rules for replacing water meters are simple:

• after installing the water meter, you must submit an application to the management company for sealing and registration of the new device;
• Attach a connection diagram in free form to the application;
• You also need a photocopy of the meter's passport.

Coordination of the arrival time of a specialist who must check the correct installation of the equipment and install seals on the water meter itself and the bypass lever, if one is installed. Violation of the integrity of the seals automatically prevents the use of meter data, and fees are charged on a general basis based on averaged data.

Signing the act of putting the device into operation provides for the mandatory monthly transfer of data to the managing organization. Currently, water meters are produced that are connected to the control network and transmit data automatically.

You should also ensure that management company employees have access to the meter for control.

According to the standards, such a visit is required no more than once every six months, but if you did not allow the employee to inspect the water meter earlier, this may become a reason for accrual according to the standards.

Tools and materials for self-installation or replacement of a water meter in an apartment

Before installing or replacing a device, it is worth determining the need for materials and checking the availability of the necessary tools. And this is preceded by a thorough examination of the condition of the working water meter:

1. Shut-off valve between the riser and the water meter. You need to make sure that it is working; if it does not lock, the replacement event will have to be postponed until the malfunction is resolved by the management organization in charge of this product. An application can be sent to the dispatch center by telephone.
2. The coarse water filter must be checked for throughput. To do this, you need to remove the cover and remove the filter element. It must be thoroughly rinsed and cleaned to ensure the integrity of the mesh.
3. The check valve is used in this unit only if there is a storage tank in the system.
4. The actual water metering device. Its suitability for further use is determined by the results of verification. As a rule, based on its results, the water meter is recognized as unsuitable for further use.
5. Ball valve with internal thread. Its functionality is checked by closing it and checking for leaks on the nearest console.

The decision on the suitability and further use of the listed parts is made based on their ability to efficiently perform their main functions.

Watch the video on how to make the replacement yourself

If the water meter is being replaced, then first of all it is necessary to dismantle the old system. Threaded connections in water pipes tend to “stick” over time. When disassembling them, damage to parts at the joints is possible.

To avoid this, before disassembling, you need to treat the threaded connections with proppant fluid (for example, VD-40). After applying it to the threaded connections, you need to let it sit for about 10 minutes, and then repeat the operation. The costs of this product are small; if you can save at least one detail, they can be considered justified.

From materials it is also necessary to purchase means for sealing threaded connections. Their use is mandatory. For this purpose the following are used:

1. The traditional material is linen tow.

1. FUM tape is a fluoroplastic sealing material. Available in the form of tape on reels. It is wound onto the thread in several layers. When installed, the mating part is destroyed, filling all irregularities on the surface of the threads and, thus, preventing fluid from seeping through.

1. “Tangit Unilok” cord is a material made from the same fluoroplastic, but in the form of a cord.

In addition to the listed means, a silicone sealant in the form of a gel is actively used for this purpose, which is desirable to have when replacing a water meter.

Before starting work, you need to purchase sealing washers made of rubber or silicone. However, a good owner always has them in stock.

To carry out work on installing or replacing a water meter in an apartment, you do not need a large set of tools. All you need is a few wrenches.

You can also use adjustable wrenches, but they are less convenient to use. It should be understood that it is undesirable to use tools with corrugated jaws, since they cause serious damage to the surface of the parts.

Replacing water meters in an apartment, procedure

First of all, it should be noted that with the massive distribution of water metering devices, there have also been massive attempts to make a business out of this, built on deception. Increasingly, calls are heard in the apartments of water meter owners about the time for the next verification and replacement of these devices.

As a rule, representatives of private organizations call, regardless of the operating life of the current device. The replacement is presented as planned or forced under various pretexts. When replacing a water meter first How legitimate are these requirements?

You should know that:

There is practically nothing to break in this device; it consists of one moving part that does not have a significant moment of inertia. The readings change when a magnet mounted on the turntable passes through. The rotor operates in an aqueous environment, which acts as a lubricant, ensuring long-term operation of the mechanism.

As we have already established above, the decision to replace the accounting device is made only by the owner of the apartment in which it is used. He is also responsible for the accuracy of the data presented. A critical indicator for forced replacement of a water meter is the service life limit specified in the passport.

Above, we have already discussed the procedure to follow if it is necessary to replace the water meter in an apartment. Physically installing a water meter with your own hands is absolutely elementary. You need to unscrew the two American nuts of the old device and tighten two new ones. Naturally, you need to use sealing agents and replace the gaskets.

There is no difference in installing devices for cold and hot water. In general, these two types of meters are practically no different, except for the maximum permissible operating temperatures. For cold and hot, the lower level is 0.1 degrees, and the upper level can differ significantly, so it is specified according to the passport data.

For hot water, the upper limit is limited to 70-130 degrees. Obviously, a device for hot water can also be used on a cold pipeline with the same results.

A significant difference is the cost of the devices, which is higher for hot water devices. This is due to the use of heat-resistant materials for them, the cost of which is much higher.

Which meter to install in the apartment

Various types of devices can be used to measure water flow:

1. Induction or electromagnetic provide connection to the electrical network. The positive aspects include the absence of mechanical components, which determines a long service life. The principle of operation is the use of electrical conductivity of water. It is very demanding on the purity of the liquid, which is not a distinctive feature of our water supply systems. It has a high price, which does not contribute to its popularity.
2. Ultrasonic water meters work on the principle of comparing the speed of ultrasound in the direction downstream and against it. They are very demanding on water purity and have a high cost. Energy dependent, rarely used.
3. Tachometer the devices operate from a fluid flow acting on an impeller. A cycle is each revolution marked by the action of a magnet. Non-volatile, operate stably in environments with suspended solids. But since contamination contributes to increased wear of the impeller, a coarse liquid filter must be installed in front of the water meter. Affordable and most popular.
4. Pulse– operate using a reed switch that closes a low-current circuit at each revolution. There is a dial indicator, duplicated by a digital scale with consumption indicators. The device is volatile and requires a network connection. In terms of price, it is budget-friendly, which explains its popularity.
5. Vortex The devices operate on the principle of measuring the flow speed behind an obstacle of a special shape. The flow characteristics are analyzed by a special electronic device. Volatile, expensive.

From the given characteristics, it is obvious that the most acceptable devices for use in our conditions are simple and reliable non-volatile tachometer devices.

Sample documents for registering water meters

The proposed forms of documents for replacing water meters are not mandatory. Many management companies have their own ways of designing the process. Therefore, it is better to familiarize yourself with them directly from these organizations.

The final act of registering the replacement of water metering devices in an apartment is sealing the meter.

Sealing water meters

The very fact of applying a seal to the water meter is confirmation of the correctness of the work performed and the use of its permitted type.

Therefore, the right to perform such an action is entrusted to special organizations - the local Gorvodokanal or HOA (may differ by region). To initiate such an action, the user of the device submits an application to this organization, where the date and time of arrival of the specialist is agreed upon.

After installing the seal on the water meter and bypass (if any), a corresponding act is drawn up, which is the basis for the management company to switch to calculating payments for water based on its actual consumption. Meter readings and transmission of data to the management company are carried out by the consumer himself.

We looked in detail at how to install water meters in an apartment. It's a hassle, but worth your attention, which will be reflected in your water bills. And every home craftsman can install the device with his own hands.

Watch DIY installation video

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The presence of a meter that measures electricity consumption is a prerequisite for cooperation with electricity supply companies. There is an opinion that only they should install the measuring and counting device. However, the installation of an electricity meter can be done with your own hands if the owner of the bathhouse has a permit to work with high voltage. If there is no specified permit, the owner has the right to turn to experienced electricians who do not claim equal payment to electricity supply companies. Regardless of whether the customer is the owner or the contractor, he should familiarize himself with the nuances of the installation.

Types of electricity meters used in everyday life

Without going into details of the classification of electric meters, we will immediately isolate from the abundance of modifications those that are used in everyday life. We are interested in meters for recording alternating current consumption, because... It is precisely this that goes to domestic household facilities. The variable flow of electricity is characterized by inconstancy of voltage values ​​and frequently changing directions of electron movement. The voltage is constant and the flux vector is equivalent only after treatment with industrial transformers or well-known elementary chargers.

Classification by number of phases

The AC meter clan is divided into two families that differ in phases. The first family must calculate consumption in a single-phase two-wire network, the second subgroup - in a three-phase three-wire or four-wire system.

The owner of a bathhouse needs to know that:

• if the electricity consumption does not exceed 220 V, you can safely purchase an inexpensive single-phase meter. You don’t even have to worry about calculating the device’s throughput, because... all latest models have significant power;
• if the operation of electrical equipment requires from 220 to 380 V, you should buy a three-phase meter. Preferably an electronic model;
• if it was carried out for the purpose of additional connection of powerful energy consumers (for example, a pump, boiler, electric furnace, washing machine), the owner’s path lies in the energy supply company to obtain technical specifications, and at the same time, the parameters of the metering devices possible for installation.

Representatives of the energy sales organization may recommend a specific modification of the electric meter. Most often, their recommendations are related to the specific local systematization of collecting and processing information, less often with the desire to sell the devices in stock.

In general, in our native lands, in the vague future, it is planned to unite all household electricity consumption recorders into an integrated AMR system. Already, automation of the process is gradually being carried out step by step. Therefore, it is better to find out in advance from the HOA or energy supplier which communication channel they are going to use. This is so as not to subsequently change the recently installed counter.

The traditional verification interval for single-phase metering devices is 16 years. Service life 32 years. The three-phase device will need to be dismantled and carried for verification after 6 or 8 years, depending on the level of complexity of the modification.

In short, the simpler the device, the less hassle it is. And elementary systems work much longer. However, if the bathhouse is equipped with powerful heaters and water is supplied to it by a well pump, there is no point in arguing with the technical requirements. Those. You need a three-phase meter, preferably with memory and the ability to differentiate tariffs.

Mechanical or electronic - which is better?

Any electricity meter has a power meter, a wattmeter, and a mandatory device that records quantitative indicators of energy flow. According to the design specifics of the counting device, devices are divided into:

• Electronic meters that record electricity consumption by converting the electrical signal first into an analogue and then into a pulsed version;
• Induction meters that record energy consumption by simply counting the number of revolutions of an aluminum disk driven by induction currents.

Induction meters are cheaper, more massive and more familiar. They are installed using 3 supplied screws and mounted in a cabinet or on a dielectric panel. Progressive electronic devices are more expensive, but their electronic filling contains several very useful functions. For example, the owner of an electronic meter has the opportunity to control payments to the supplier, because The device's memory can store all the information received for a year.

There will be no incidents or problems with installing a neat electronic device. It is mounted on a DIN rail, which is fixed in a cabinet made of metal or non-flammable plastic. For home craftsmen who absolutely do not want to figure out how to connect an electricity meter, the store can offer a fully assembled cabinet with a meter already installed in place and automatic means of protecting the wiring.

According to GOST regulations 6570-96, the maximum permissible accuracy class of induction devices must be no lower than 2.0. New mechanical counters are simply not produced with lower performance. The maximum permissible error of electronic devices is 1.0; in multi-tariff systems, 2.0 is acceptable.

The accuracy class is a display of the error of the calculating device, expressed as a percentage. Those. for 100% of the consumed and registered electricity, the electronic device can add 1% or vice versa. A mechanical device will not please you with similar scrupulousness. Which electricity meter is better to purchase is up to the future owner to choose. However, energy supply companies strongly advise paying close attention to electronic models, as they are more accurate and easily integrated into the automatic processing system.

Single-tariff and multi-tariff devices

One of the advantages of electronic meters is the remarkable possibility of differentiated metering of electricity consumption. Single-tariff induction devices do not have this economical advantage. The last of these subspecies will unquestioningly record consumption, without giving owners the opportunity to reduce payments for energy during hours of least demand.

Purchasing a multi-tariff counting machine will allow you to pay:

• according to the full tariff for electricity consumption, starting from 7.00 until 23.00;
• 0.7 of the full tariff for consumption at night, when the product of domestic power plants is not needed by most consumers (23.00 - 7.00);
• 1.5 standard tariffs during the peak period at maximum load of power grids;
• 0.4 of the full rate at night.

So far, adherents of smart savings due to variations in payment use mainly two-tariff recording devices and payment schemes of the same name. Those. Of the above points, they selected the first two. However, the ranks of admirers of the four tariff system are replenished with enviable regularity, explained by the tangible economic effect.

Rules for installing counting machines

The list of the main requirements for installing meters includes the possibility of trouble-free readings, protection from mechanical damage and eliminating the possibility of electricity theft from suppliers and owners. Failure to comply with regulatory requirements is most often accompanied by a refusal by the energy supply company to seal/register the device, and therefore a refusal to use it.

Please note that the estimated electricity meter is installed at the boundary of the operational responsibility of the energy supplier and the owner of the building.

Planning your installation site

The choice of location for installing the electric meter is dictated by the requirements of Ch. 1.5 of the collection of PUE, which is entirely devoted to electricity metering. It states that:

• The room for installing the calculation device must be dry, spacious enough for unconstrained work and trouble-free reading of consumption information;
• If it is not possible to place a cabinet or rigid panel with a calculation device in a heated room, installation in unheated compartments, corridors, dressing rooms and outside the building on the facade or on concrete supports of power lines is allowed. For outdoor installation, you should buy a device with technical functionality at - 40 º C. Outdoor installation of meters should be done in insulated cabinets in order to prevent malfunction of the devices in winter. You can use hoods heated no higher than +20º C, provided by an electric lamp or heating element;
• The basis for installation must be a rigid structure. Mounting can be done to the wall, in a niche. Preference is given to cabinets and dielectric panels made of plastic, wood, and metal. If installed on a shield, a ventilation gap of 1.5 cm must be provided between it and the wall. To form it, it is recommended to use earthenware rollers;
• The installation height should be comfortable for taking information. An approximate guideline is the eye level of a person of average height. Maximum 1.7 m from the floor plane, minimum 0.8 m. Regulatory sources do not oppose a lower setting with a lower limit of 0.4m;
• To protect against mechanical damage, calculation devices must be located half a meter from door and window openings.

If there is a threat of mechanical damage, contamination, damage by children or interference by strangers, for installation you need to use a cabinet with a lock and a transparent window opposite the dial.

Electrical rules and subtleties

The rules for electrical installation of calculation devices are indicated in the same chapter 1.5 of the PUE:

• It is prohibited to construct electrical wiring to meters using wires with solders or twists;
• The minimum cross-sectional size for household copper wiring is 2.5 mm², aluminum 4 mm²;
• It should be possible to replace the device and dismantle it for verification by installing in front of the meter either an automatic protective device or a tandem of a switch and fuse links. The throughput of the machine is selected according to the current consumption value of the object;
• For potential reinstallation, replacement, or repair, you need to leave a reserve of 12 cm of each of the current-carrying elements during the installation period;
• The insulation of the neutral wire must be different from the insulation of the phase. If the insulating sheath does not have color differences, you need to mark 10 cm of the wire connected to the meter with some kind of marking.

A slope of the calculation device of more than 1º is not allowed, because if it is violated, it is impossible to guarantee the reliability of the readings.

Reinstallation of the meter to another location at the request of the owner is possible only after making adjustments to the existing design documentation.

Construction of electrical wiring with a meter

There are no particular differences in the connection diagram of an induction or electronic electricity meter. There are limits for wire stripping dictated by the design of the devices. To insert into the holes of an electronic model, 2.7 cm of each wire should be stripped; for insertion into a mechanical device, 2.0 cm. Not a millimeter of insulation should be in the contact zone. There should also be no extra stripped mm outside the terminal clamps, so that there is no possibility of “left” connections and energy theft.

Please note that installing a common switching device or fuses in front of the meter for all electrical wiring is not necessary if each of the lines after the meter is equipped with its own circuit breaker.

Circuit breakers in front of meters are not included in the list of required wiring components. However, their presence allows for emergency shutdown of the entire facility for repair operations. Energosbyt does not “respect” them, because it considers them to be devices powered by unaccounted kilowatts. To install the machine in front of the meter, it is recommended to buy a small plastic box with a DIN rail and external ears for attaching a seal.

Standard algorithm for connecting settlement meters:

• First of all, we will de-energize the input line.
• We remove the cover from the terminal row and study the connection diagram on its inside.
• We strip the ends of the wires to the appropriate length for the structure. We will clamp each of the wires with two screws. Therefore, under the terminal cover, not individual, but paired connection points will be found.
• We insert the phase input wire into the leftmost hole No. 1. Without fanaticism, but with reasonable effort, tighten the top screw of the first terminal pair on the left. Having verified with a banal twitch that the fastening is secure, tighten the second screw.
• We bring the zero to the third hole in the same way.
• We also connect the phase output to the second terminal pair, the zero output to the fourth.
• From the second pair of clamps we lead the phase wire to power, lighting, etc. circuit breakers. lines. We connect them in series using jumpers.
• From the fourth pair of clamps we connect the neutral wire to the neutral bus.

In general, if you act according to the scheme, there is absolutely nothing complicated. The main thing is not to deviate from the instructions of the PUE and ensure that the connection is made in accordance with the direction of the electrical flow. And upon completion of the work, you need to call a representative of Energosbyr for inspection and sealing.

And finally, a video about outdoor installation.

It is possible to install an electric meter yourself, knowing certain rules and the wiring diagram. When performing the necessary operations for installing a single-phase device, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• compliance with the minimum level of humidity and temperature conditions - 0...+40°C;
• carrying out manipulations to additionally insulate the room if negative temperatures are observed;
• the electric meter is fixed on panels made of wood, plastic, metal;
• the device is placed in specially adapted places - relay compartment, panels, cabinets, panels.

It is necessary to fix the equipment at a distance of 80 - 170 cm from the floor level, at an inclination of 1°, in order to avoid errors in the readings generated by induction devices. It is required to install circuit breakers that allow trouble-free maintenance and repair of equipment.

We install the electric meter ourselves

Installation kit contents

They begin installing a single-phase electric meter with their own hands by assembling the main elements:

• wiring;
• DIN rail;
• contact plate - made of copper and facilitates the connection of 10 cables;
• stainless steel self-tapping screws;
• electricity meter.

Additionally, boxes made of wood or plastic are purchased to serve as containers for system components and circuit breakers. You will need a three-core cable with a diameter of at least 3 millimeters.

Installation of an automatic safety shutdown device

Adhering to the rules for operating the equipment, before installing the meter, a disconnecting protective device is attached, in the form of an automatic two-pole system.

Functionality and sealing of the machine

The product is responsible for performing a number of functions:

• protection of main equipment - short-term short circuits are prevented, fires due to excess load are prevented;
• simplification of the system operation procedure;
• control over the level of permitted power.

The optimal location for mounting a circuit breaker is considered to be an internal electrical panel, but it is permissible to mount the component on an external box located outside the living area.

Attention! The choice of installation location depends on the capabilities of the supervisory authority in terms of sealing the equipment. If the operation cannot be performed, then fixation is performed externally. When there are lead seals and specialized stickers glued to the screws, the machine is installed indoors.

Choosing a location for the counter

The procedure for carrying out installation work

The protective connection is disconnected using VVGngP cables, which have a three-core structure and a cross-section of 2.5 mm. The wire has a double insulating layer, represented by an outer common winding and internal multi-colored elements. Connection is carried out by color:

• grounding – green, yellow stripe;
• zero – blue cable;
• phase - black wire.

It is necessary to connect the neutral to the phase with the terminal, and ground it separately to the feed-through element. Having removed the first insulating layer, measure the required length, cutting off the excess residue. Having cut off the second part of the shell from scratch and phase, unscrew the contact screws, inserting the cables into the automatic device. Zero is connected on the left side, and phase on the right. The outgoing cables are connected in the same way.

Having inserted the wiring, you need to securely tighten the screws, checking the wires individually, swinging them in different directions and pulling them up, checking for mobility of the contact. Since do-it-yourself installation is carried out using three-core cables, you need to take care of grounding in addition to the zero and phase.

It is prohibited to perform grounding using a protective disconnecting device. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a feed-through contact connected to a steel busbar, ensuring the passage of the wire to the end point.

Don't forget about grounding

When there is no through contact, they resort to standard twisting of the outgoing and passing wires, connecting them securely using pliers. Installation of contacts is carried out by snapping the rail, with the preliminary removal of excess insulation.

If the operation is performed correctly, then at the moment the device is triggered, the voltage will remain exclusively in the upper contacts, in accordance with the diagram. There will be a complete break with the network of contacts located below. Outgoing cables leading to electrical equipment used in the house are connected with preliminary removal of the outer insulation.

Installation of a single-phase electric meter

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

• experimental placement of system components in the panel - checking the correct location, compatibility of elements and ease of further maintenance;
• markings are made to determine the installation location of the meter and DIN rail, followed by securing the elements;
• The automation is clicked onto the rail.

Having carried out the preparatory activities, they begin to carry out the wiring with their own hands, following a clear diagram.

Equipment installation diagram

Initially, the phase is output to the circuit breakers installed in the house of electrical equipment and appliances.

Attention! Prevention of voltage drops caused by excessive overloads in the network is ensured.

wiring diagram

Phase connection

You need to find the phase and, by cutting the cable sheath, remove the wires with brown and red pigmentation. It is necessary to measure the segment, stripping 20 mm and make a connection to the terminal by fixing it with special fasteners.

The wires are pulled in a horizontal or vertical plane. It is forbidden to lay the cable in a diagonal direction.

It is necessary to strip the feeder at a distance of 10 mm and make U-shaped jumpers by connecting the machines to the system, having previously stripped the ends.

It is forbidden to lay wires overlapping in order to avoid overheating at the points of contact.

Zero connection

Having connected the phase, they begin to remove the zero using cables of any color. Having measured the required distance from the copper plate to the meter, strip the terminal, choosing the 4th from the left or the first from the right. After removing the insulation from the neutral feeders, a two-way connection is made.

The shield is secured to the wall, following the connection of the meter. The pre-selected area is marked, followed by drilling holes of the required diameter. The box is screwed using self-tapping screws.

Grounding installation

When the wiring is done, the grounding installation begins. If metal shields are used, then the work is performed according to the standard scheme:

• counter;
• panel box;
• contact plate.

Attention! When working with non-conducting elements, ground directly to the copper plate.

Do-it-yourself installation of three-phase equipment

Connection of equipment to the network is carried out with the permission of supervisory authorities, who carry out a thorough inspection followed by sealing. Similar requirements are imposed in conditions of increased consumption of electrical energy at a level exceeding 10 kW. If you do the installation yourself in a house, then single-phase equipment is used, and in apartments they use three-phase meters delivering 220/380 V.

We install three-phase equipment

The use of such devices makes it possible to protect electrical appliances from sudden voltage changes, extending the operational life of the equipment, and reducing the likelihood of burnout. Connection of three-phase systems is carried out indirectly and directly. If there is a transformer, and the network is characterized by excessive overloads, then it is installed according to an indirect scheme.

Scheme of installation work

Three-phase equipment is installed in specialized panels equipped with a fastening with three screws and a platform. Fastening is carried out by analogy with single-phase systems. The difference lies in the circuit used, built on the basis of the design of the supply wire, including 3 phases, zero and a grounding 5th conductor. They work using the following technology:

• the cable is inserted into the panel box;
• the yellow phase is connected to the primary contact;
• the green phase is connected to the 3rd contact;
• the red phase is connected to the 5th contact.

Attention! Making an error will result in the device not working correctly. Checking and diagnostics must be carried out after connecting each phase.

Electricity is supplied to the devices from several contacts: 2, 4, 6. Zero supply is provided to the 7th and 8th contacts. It is necessary to fix the grounding conductor on the bus, while simultaneously connecting the zero to the ground in order to avoid excessive network overvoltage.

Having correctly installed a three-phase electric meter during a DIY repair, you need to connect it with the involvement of supervisory authorities. It is necessary to seal the system elements installed indoors. Specialists will check the correct connection of the wires and the reliability of the equipment as a whole. By following the instructions given, it is possible to independently perform all operations with a high level of accuracy. An electric meter is something you can install yourself. You need to remember safety when working with electrical appliances and pay close attention to the mains voltage.

Electric energy meters are electrical measuring devices that are useful for accounting for electrical energy directly consumed in everyday life or in industrial enterprises. Such a device is very necessary precisely for monitoring the consumed electricity, taking into account a certain period of time, and also makes it possible to save a lot on this.

At this stage of time, the market is overflowing with a variety of electrical energy meters, taking into account their various technical properties and characteristics. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to help a person make the right choice when buying an electric meter.

So, according to the principle of operation or type of device, they distinguish:

• electronic (for example: TsE6803V, SE 102, SOE-55);
• induction (for example: SO-I446, NE-1-44);

As for induction meters of electrical energy, they are electromechanical devices that operate on the principle of rotation of metal disks, the number of revolutions of which is used to record electricity. At the same time, induction meters have the only advantage over electronic ones: their price and the calibration interval.

Regarding electronic electricity meters, they, in turn, are electronic devices whose operation is based directly on semiconductor technology or microcircuits. They also do not have any rotating mechanical parts, so the input signal conversion will come directly from the voltage as well as current sensors. Electronic meters, among other things, are produced with higher accuracy classes.

Meters are also distinguished by the number of phases into single-phase and three-phase. Moreover, single-phase electricity meters are usually used for single-phase networks, while three-phase meters are used directly for three-phase networks.

Recently, even three-phase electronic electricity meters have begun to be produced, which can also be connected to single-phase networks. While in three-phase networks, three single-phase electricity meters can be connected directly to each phase. Consequently, it will be possible to record electricity directly for all phases separately.

Main differences between meters

Accuracy class meters range from 0.2 to 2.5. The fact is that by the accuracy class of the device you can determine the level of error in its measurements. Moreover, previously all meters could be produced with an accuracy class of 2.5, since the maximum error was two and a half percent. Recently, a new GOST 6570-96 was introduced specifically for metering devices, which states that accuracy classes in residential (domestic) sectors must be at least two percent.

Meters are distinguished by the method of connection: direct connection meters and meters connected directly through current transformers.

For example, direct power meters are used for currents up to one hundred amperes. If your total load exceeds these readings, then you will need to connect the meters through current transformers with a secondary current of five amperes.

Meters are also distinguished by voltage class:

• 220/380 Volt;
• 100 Volt;

If electricity metering will be carried out on the high side, for example, your facility receives power directly through a high-voltage line from 6 to 10 kV, or you have high-voltage transformers installed, then in this case it is also necessary to use measuring voltage transformers, where the secondary voltage will be no more than one hundred volts. That is why the electric meter must be installed with a voltage class of one hundred volts. In this case, current transformers are also used.

Directly based on the number of tariffs, they are also distinguished:

• single tariff meters;
• two-tariff meters;
• multi-tariff meters;

For example, if you have a two-tariff meter, you have the opportunity to pay only for electricity consumption directly at two tariffs: day and night. The difference between these tariffs lies only in the cost of electricity, which differs almost twice.

As a rule, in most multi-storey buildings, electrical panels are now usually installed on the staircases, where your meters are located, as well as those necessary for all apartments on the same site. True, in detached houses or in old buildings, sometimes you have to install such electrical panels yourself. Taking into account the increased power consumption in our time, the prompt installation of an electrical panel becomes a necessity. So, how to install an electric meter?

Electric meter installation

Electrical panels with single-phase electricity meters and circuit breakers can now be purchased either pre-assembled or assembled in parts yourself. Experts recommend the first option, since finding such parts so that they all fit into the shield and can be securely fastened there is quite difficult.

After you have decided on the choice of meter, you will need to first find out at the electrician’s store if they have a ready-made panel with such electric meters and circuit breakers (the so-called “circuit breakers”). If they are available, then you are very lucky. If not, then you will have to buy it separately. In this case you will need:

1. electric meter;
2. the shield itself (a wooden or plastic box in which the meter and the “machines” themselves should fit);
3. circuit breakers directly (their number is determined specifically by the number of power lines),
4. a special strip for installing “automatic machines”, or as it is also called (din rail);
5. contact plate, preferably copper for connecting up to ten wires and one meter of copper three-core cable with a cross-section of at least three millimeters for wiring. To mount the electric meter, as well as the “automatic devices” and the contact plate directly on the panel body, you will need stainless (shiny) screws. Moreover, they should have a wide head; plastic dowels may also be suitable. True, some devices for fasteners may be provided in the shields at the manufacturer.

Installing an electric meter yourself comes down to several operations. First, you need to evenly distribute the electric meter, “automatic machines” and contact plates in the panel. Moreover, there should be additional space for holes for attaching the shield directly to the wall, as well as for convenient installation of all connecting wires. Then you need to secure the meter, DIN rail, plate, and then finally snap the circuit breakers onto the DIN rail. Then you can start wiring.

It is necessary to transfer the phase from the meter directly to the “automatic machine”, which is intended for an electric stove. If you don’t have an electric stove, then use any other one. This is why we remove one red or brown core directly from the cable by carefully cutting its sheath. As a rule, the phase from the electric meter should usually come out on the third contacts from the left, but you should definitely find out about this directly from the instructions for the meter. After which, it is necessary to measure the required length of the wire, taking into account that the installation will be carried out only vertically or horizontally, but not obliquely. Next, you will need to strip the wire in the electric meter by two centimeters, insert it into the desired terminal and tighten it with bolts.

For automatic switches, you need to strip the wire by one centimeter and insert it into the “machine” without clamps. Now you need to make U-shaped jumpers from the wires, strip their ends also by one centimeter and connect the neighboring “circuit breakers”, after which, firmly clamping the contacts, connect them to all circuit breakers.

It is worth paying attention that all the wires in the “automatic machines” should lie flat when clamping them, without overlapping each other. Otherwise, during operation, this connection will weaken, and will also begin to heat up and burn.

Next, you need to enter zero, for which you need to take a wire of a different color, for example, white. Measure it from the meter directly to the contact plate, in this case, the wire should be located only vertically or horizontally. According to the rules for installing an electric meter, the zero terminal of the electric meter is usually the fourth terminal on the left or the very first terminal on the right; it is worth checking this in the instructions for your meter. Then clean and also connect the neutral wires to the meter or to the contact plate.

Additional operations when installing an electric meter

Next you need to attach the shield to the wall. It is necessary to attach the shield directly to the installation site and mark all places for fastening with a simple pencil (screwdriver or nail). Then you need to drill the wall with a Pobedit drill with a diameter of six millimeters to a depth of six centimeters. After that, you need to insert plastic dowels into the holes, attach the box, then screw it with special self-tapping screws with wide heads.

If the body of your electrical panel is made of steel, then your grounding (that is, the conductor from the grounding loop) should go first to the switchboard, and only then straight to the contact plate. If the shield is plastic, then you need to connect the ground directly to the contact plate.

It is worth noting that before you connect your electric meter to the power line, you will need to check with your local energy sales office about who can do this. As a rule, controllers allow you to connect meters on your own. If not, then you will need to connect the power line directly to the meter, and the inspectors will connect it themselves and seal it. In any case, you need to discuss all your actions regarding connecting the electric meter directly with energy sales employees. Otherwise, you run the risk of facing serious problems!

It is worth remembering that no matter how experienced you consider yourself, it is strictly prohibited to carry out any such repair work on your existing power line directly without disconnecting it or checking for a complete absence of voltage on it! To connect your meter to an existing power line, you must involve workers from all relevant organizations. For apartment buildings, for example, this is the housing administration. And don’t be shy if they charge large sums of money for housing maintenance without actually doing anything, they’ll just be happy to send an electrician, the main thing is that you don’t get indignant.

The relationships that arise during the sale or purchase of electrical energy specifically between producers or suppliers and consumers are, as a rule, regulated by special Rules for the Use of Electrical Energy, which were approved by an official resolution of the National Commission for Regulation of Electricity Industries back in 1996.