Siding is a dry type of exterior finishing and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not put a significant load on the foundation, which is why such cladding is also used on old wooden houses.
The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, easy maintenance, excellent protective properties and a wide selection of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look to even an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.
Tools and materials
Before covering your house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:
- or a fine-toothed saw, metal scissors,
- screwdriver and screwdriver,
- hammer,
- tape measure, square and level (a laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
- a stepladder that is high enough to reach the roof of the house.
Siding manufacturers offer a full range of elements and panels for covering a house, even with a complex configuration. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts; a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.
Knowing some points will help you control or check the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:
- External corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using entire elements for each external corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when joining. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
- Internal angles are calculated using the same principle. If the roof eaves are finished with siding, internal corners are also used in the areas where it connects to the wall. In cases where the finishing of the cornice was done earlier or will not be done at all, use a finishing strip.
- To finish the cornice, elements such as soffits and wind boards are used.
- The required length of the starting strip is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
- In areas connecting extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
- The perimeter of the windows is covered with a window strip; it must be taken with a reserve so that the joining points are not visible. Also, to frame the windows, flashings are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
- A drain strip or ebb sills are installed around the perimeter of the base if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
- If the length of the house wall is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think about the location of its installation so that the proportions of the building are maintained.
- The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated using the formula: “((area of all walls of the house – area of windows and doors)/panel area)*1.10”. A reserve of 10% is needed to cover scraps and waste.
- For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. Approximately 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a reserve. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, which will definitely not leave rusty stains after a few years.
Preparatory work
Before covering with siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Seal or foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of an old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics; walls made of foam concrete can be treated with a deep penetration primer.
Installation of sheathing
The first step is to install a sheathing made of metal profiles or wooden slats, since it is strictly forbidden to attach the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use 60*40 mm slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.
Using a tape measure and level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. Subsequently, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.
Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to ensure that they fit tightly to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm; in those places where the siding will bear additional load, for example, street lamps, as well as near corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. The vertical guides should not be connected by anything so that there are no obstacles to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to the appearance of mold.
Waterproofing and insulation
For wooden and aerated concrete walls, installation is mandatory, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, preference should be given to a water- and wind-proof membrane. If insulation is not performed, then the film is fixed directly to the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid over it, and then the sheathing is rebuilt to provide a gap for ventilation.
Fastening the guide elements
Installation begins by installing the drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. It is a rigid structure and is easier to keep level than a flexible starter bar. Then a series of corner profiles. They must be firmly secured with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.
If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be laid overlapping the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. Then, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached to the top of the drainage system. It should be 5 mm above the bottom edge of the corner profile.
Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer bottom edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be filed at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped, placing the top planks on the side ones.
When installing H-profiles vertically in pre-designated locations, a level is used. As when installing other vertical elements, you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the cornice and base so that the planks do not bend when expanding. A finishing strip is installed under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends.
Installation of panels
When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below; at the top, the panel is secured with self-tapping screws in the center of oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. You should not pull the panel up and fasten it rigidly; it should move slightly to the sides. The top row of siding ends with a finishing strip.
What should you consider?
Rule #1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be firmly secured. The material from which they are made contracts when cold and expands when heated, length fluctuations can reach 1%. This is what causes the elongated shape of the mounting holes. The fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the head. If this rule is violated, the siding may simply burst under extreme heat.
Rule #2. There should be a gap of about 10mm between the planks and the guides (less when installing in hot weather), so that the siding does not bend when it expands. When covering a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.
Rule #3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but please note that at temperatures below -10 degrees, elements may crack when cut, so you should be careful and use an angle grinder.
With the help of siding, if you follow the rules and installation technology, you can renovate your house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.
Finishing a house with siding– certainly a profitable and practical solution. Sheathing is made from a wide variety of materials, so it is not difficult to find the ideal option for a brick, wood, or concrete structure. Installation is extremely simple and accessible to any novice builder. And, finally, the material is durable and resistant to wind, frost and sun, and will protect the walls of the house from damage for a long time.
The last note in favor of siding is decorativeness. The finishing is done in all imaginable colors and textures, and can imitate natural materials - stone, brick, wood of various species. If you have the skills to work with construction tools, then covering the exterior walls of your house with siding will not be a difficult task for you. The material in this lesson will help you, and the video below will help you understand all the intricacies of finishing the facade.
Types of siding
Siding refers to a cladding board or panel. To decorate the outside of the house, products in the form of lamellas are used. Panels are used to cover the base, and sometimes the façade.
Sheathing is made from various materials.
- Plastic siding - based on vinyl and acrylic polymers. The price of plastic finishing is minimal, while the user qualities are very high: the material does not rot, does not crack, is insensitive to moisture and does not support combustion. It is readily used for finishing both outside and inside the house. Its disadvantages include low impact strength.
- Metal - panels are made of galvanized iron sheet, less often of aluminum. The fire safety of the material is absolute, the strength is much higher. However, the panels are much more massive and more difficult to install. Metal siding resists corrosion very well as long as its polymer coating remains intact, so the exterior steel coating needs to be maintained.
- Wooden - finishing a house with exterior wood siding is rarely done. The material is expensive, requires maintenance and is not as durable as metal. However, its unique heat and sound insulation qualities, ability to remove moisture and amazingly beautiful appearance are worth all the effort. For a wooden building, this is an ideal option for exterior cladding. The photo below shows the finishing of the facade of the house with siding.
- Fiber cement - combines all the positive qualities of finishing: completely non-flammable, insensitive to moisture, strong, durable and not susceptible to mold or fungi. Its disadvantages are weight and complex installation. Vinyl and metal panels are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove method. Fiber cement ones are laid overlapping using special fastenings.
Decorating a house with siding yourself is a painstaking, but fairly simple job.. Considering that the installation price per 1 sq. m is quite high, independent installation significantly reduces the cost of finishing the facade of the house with siding.
Preparation and preliminary calculations
The sequence of actions is almost the same for any type of material. The installation of the basement has some differences due to the size of the panels. To install siding on the outer surface of the walls, you will need the following tools: a universal hacksaw with fine teeth and metal scissors, a screwdriver, a hammer, pliers, a tape measure at least 8 meters long, a level, construction rope and a pencil. It’s good if you have a partner to help you with your work.
Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the material consumption. The approximate amount of material is obtained by calculating the area of the walls, plinth and other elements - cornices, for example, and dividing the result by the length of the panel. A more accurate method requires creating a sketch. If the wall is long, the panels have to be joined together. For this, a connecting H-profile is used. Joining siding in different places on the façade looks extremely unsightly. The sketch allows you to calculate the optimal location of the panels so that there are fewer connections and the cost of finishing the house with siding does not increase.
After purchasing the necessary material for cladding the facade, the outer surface of the walls is prepared. In the simplest case, their preparation comes down to cleaning them from dust, dirt, plants, dried lime and the like. If the exterior of the house has been plastered and the finishing has become unusable, it must be removed. It is also necessary to dismantle drainpipes, façade lights, window sills and other external elements that may interfere with work.
If the house is finished with siding with insulation, the outside walls must be covered with a vapor barrier film (vapor barrier) that protects the insulation from condensation.
Frame installation
After the walls are prepared, the installation of the frame begins. Metal sheathing is definitely recommended for brick and concrete buildings as it is durable, strong and fire resistant. Finishing siding on a wooden house involves constructing a wooden frame. In this case, the sheathing is made from boards or slats with a cross-section of 50×80 millimeters, nailing them to the wall with nails 100 millimeters long.
For wall siding, vertical sheathing is installed. When facing with plinth panels, both horizontal and vertical frames are used.
The elements closest to the corner are secured first. Verticality must be checked with a building level. Fastening is done with anti-corrosion nails (galvanized or aluminum). The distance between the guides is at least 40 cm for metal panels and 30 cm for vinyl panels.
When cladding a façade with insulation, the height of the sheathing must exceed the thickness of the heat insulation layer. The heat insulator material can be different:
- mineral wool or fiberglass;
- basalt mats;
- Styrofoam;
- penoplex and so on.
The thickness of the insulation is selected based on the properties of the material and the requirements for thermal insulation of the building outside, which can be found in the reference book. The heat insulator is placed between the profiles. There should be a gap of 1–3 cm between the insulation and the siding. If the profile height is insufficient, then a counter-lattice is built on top of the frame. The insulation is covered on top with a waterproofing film, such as isospan.
Facade finishing technology with siding
Finishing the facade of a house with siding begins with securing the starting strip using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. Next, the corner elements and the connecting H-profile, if provided, are installed. Window and door openings are edged with J-profile.
Next, the siding panels are installed. The wall panel is installed in the starting and corner strips and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. The siding panels are assembled from the bottom up. Each subsequent one is joined using the tongue-and-groove method with the previous one and only then is attached. A correctly installed panel can be moved by hand left and right. Rigid fixation should not be allowed. Rigid fastening is permitted only when installing metal panels. When fixing vinyl and wood, a gap of 1.5–2 mm remains between the head and the panel. The material changes in volume under the influence of temperature and moisture and is damaged if fastened tightly.
The siding produced for exterior decoration of the house has special holes on the fastening strip. The nail (screw) must be placed in the middle of the hole.
Lastly, the finishing strip is secured. The last finishing panel is inserted into it from below. After this, all facade structures are mounted back in their place.
How houses look after they are finished with siding can be seen from the photographs presented.
Siding allows you not only to protect the outside of the house from wind, high and low temperatures, but also to decorate it. Sometimes the decision on finishing is made not in order to protect the façade material, but out of a desire to restore the attractiveness of the old building. Moreover, if the original color is not satisfactory, or, as in the case of fiber cement panels, is missing, repainting the siding is not difficult.
Particularly beautiful are the plinth panels that imitate various natural stones. For greater effect, designers combine panels of different colors to decorate the base and façade itself. In the video, the exterior decoration of the house with siding is presented in more detail.
Siding is famous for its simplicity and low cost of installation. With proper installation of the panels, it will last for several decades, without fear of sudden changes in temperature, wind, or precipitation.
The duration of finishing work, their cost and quality directly depend on the skills of the installer. If you already have some experience in construction, then covering a house with siding will not seem too difficult a task.
In this article, we will step by step explain how to cover a house with siding with your own hands, and also tell you what materials and tools you will need for this.
Finishing a house with siding: preparatory work
Preparing to cover a house with siding begins with cleaning the exterior walls. First of all, all protruding parts that will interfere with the installation of panels are removed: gutters, brackets, ebbs and shutters on windows, trim on doors - everything that sticks out from the flat surface of the walls.
Private houses made of stone and brick are cleaned of old plaster, covering all cracks with cement mortar or polyurethane foam. Wooden houses are cleaned of dirt and mold, and then covered with a layer of antiseptic.
Finishing a house with siding requires an accurate calculation of the required amount of materials. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the width and height of the walls in advance, then subtract the total area of windows and doors from their total area. You also need to calculate the perimeter of the house and all window and door openings, so the total length of the connecting structures will become clear.
Formula for calculating materials: (area of all walls of the house − area of windows and doors) ÷ area of one panel × 1.10
Only the usable area of the siding panel is taken into account, that is, without the upper fixing part. 1.10 in the formula is a 10% supply of material, which is usually lost to waste during inaccurate cutting and final fitting.
It is most convenient to use a schematic house plan - you can use it to calculate the required number of panels piece by piece, and you will immediately see where the full-length panels will go and where trimming will be required. Any siding manufacturer will help you with calculations for free. This can be done in advance in the online services “Alta-calculator” and “Alta-planner”.
Tools and materials
To quickly and easily install siding with your own hands, you practically do not need a special tool - just what you already have in any private home is enough.
- Tape measure, square and metal ruler - for measurements.
- Construction level of at least 120 cm - to check the accuracy of installation of the sheathing vertically and the accuracy of laying siding panels horizontally.
- Electric drill, screwdriver or screwdriver for fastening.
- A knife cutter, electric jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw (with small and sharp teeth) - any of these tools will be needed to cut the panels. It is better not to use a hacksaw when installing siding in the cold season, because the panels may crack. The grinder should operate only at low speeds: at a high speed of rotation of its disk, the material of the panels at the cut site will melt.
- A siding hammer, also known as a punch, is needed to create hooks to secure the siding into the finish strip.
The punch is the only tool for installing siding that will have to be purchased specially. Photo No. 1.
Connecting structures. Siding panels are not the only structural element that will be required during installation. They are connected to each other by special strips: starting, connecting, finishing, etc. Separate structures are used for cladding window and door openings, as well as building corners. The use of additional structures makes it possible to cover a house of any design with siding.
Plastic structures used in siding installation. Photo No. 2.
Areas of application of connecting elements. Photo No. 3.
Insulation. A private country house, used only in spring and summer, in most cases does not need additional insulation. A house in which people live all year round is usually insulated with mineral wool - it is placed outside the building, in the cells formed between the sheathing floors.
Scheme of sheathing and installation of insulation. Photo No. 4.
The lathing is installed on the entire surface of the facade. First of all, it is mounted along the side surfaces of the building, corners, windows, doorways and other protrusions. The standard distance between floors is 40 cm. But the heavier the panels, the smaller the sheathing step needs to be. More dense sheathing should be used on houses that are located in areas of strong winds and possible hurricanes.
Windows and doors are surrounded by sheathing along the entire perimeter - a reinforced contour is created on which window and door frames are attached. Photo No. 5.
Simple wooden slats are usually used as sheathing on log houses. Their main disadvantage is the high probability of distortion. Therefore, it is important to choose only dry, straight slats without knots, thoroughly soak them with an antiseptic and install them only in dry weather.
Another option is galvanized profiles. They are more versatile, but can expand when installed in extreme heat. When it gets colder, the siding installed on such profiles becomes deformed.
The main advantage of polymer profiles is the quick and accurate installation of siding panels on them. Photo No. 6.
How to install panels correctly
During all preparatory work, it is better to store siding panels in a covered, dry room, protected from direct sunlight, in a horizontal position on a flat surface, at a temperature of –30 to +50 °C.
Fastening sequence. Siding panels are mounted on previously installed connecting structures: starting, connecting and corner strips. Facing starts from bottom to top from left to right. First, the starting bar is attached. It must be mounted absolutely horizontally: the evenness of laying all subsequent layers depends on this.
The first front panel is inserted into the starting bar and slightly pulled up until it snaps into place. Then the panel is screwed to the sheathing through special mounting holes: the first screw is screwed into the middle of the siding panel to avoid its deformation in the future. When screwing in the screws, the panel should not be pulled up - it should hang freely under its own weight.
After fixing the first siding panel, the next one is installed on it using exactly the same technology. In order to cladding the facade evenly and accurately, it is recommended to assemble the panels simultaneously along the entire perimeter of the house - in a circle, visually monitoring the evenness of the installation and checking the horizontality of every third layer of panels with a building level. This way there will be less waste during installation - you can immediately see where the cut pieces can be used.
The finishing strip is attached after the last layer of siding panels is installed. In the very top panel you need to make hooks - for this you will need a punch. These hooks are then snapped into the finishing strip clamp.
Thermal expansion gap. The main installation rule is that siding and accessories must move freely and not rest against anything. Due to natural temperature changes throughout the year, siding is subject to expansion and contraction. Therefore, when rigidly fixed to the sheathing, it becomes deformed and moves in waves.
This is what errors look like when calculating gaps for thermal expansion. Photo No. 7.
Be sure to leave 5–8 mm free between the siding panel and the side fastener. After installing the panel, it should move freely left and right, but not dangle.
Fastening elements. The most convenient way to fasten the siding to the sheathing is with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sharp tip and a wide head. They are not subject to corrosion and over time will not leave unpleasant rusty stains on the facade.
There should be a distance of 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. The easiest way is to tighten the screw completely and then loosen it one turn. Photo No. 8.
The screws are screwed exactly in the middle of the mounting holes so that the panels can move. Photo No. 9.
Extension of panels. Often the building is longer than the siding panel. In such cases, a connecting strip is used. In this case, panels of standard length have to be cut. When calculating their length, it is important to remember the temperature gaps.
Installation of siding panels with a connecting strip (left) and extension of panels with an overlap (right). Photo No. 10.
The second way to lengthen panels is overlapping installation. So that the junction points are not noticeable, the joints of the next layers are made offset. But still, after a few years, due to thermal expansion between panels mounted overlapping, gaps will appear and the joints will become noticeable.
Cladding a house with siding - video
For even more information on how to properly and quickly cover a house with siding with your own hands, see the instructions from the Alta-profile company and on video.
– an excellent material for cladding a house. At its affordable price, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.
You are offered detailed instructions for installing siding yourself. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you can complete any finishing that involves installation on the lathing: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.
Installing the sheathing
Siding is best attached to pre-installed sheathing. We work in the following order.
The first stage - choosing the material
The frame can be assembled from wooden beams or metal profiles. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, metal lathing is much easier to attach to an uneven base.
Find out and also familiarize yourself with the calculation algorithm with an emphasis on possible nuances.
Installation of profiles is carried out in half-meter increments. Hangers are used for wall mounting. This technique will allow you to level out differences in the surface and secure the frame elements at a level.
Wooden sheathing is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:
- the material has peeled off;
- was deformed;
- had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.
Elements of wooden sheathing must be impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built of wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.
Stage two - preparing the base
The sheathing is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any parts that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.
The third stage - installing guides
Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or sheathing profiles vertically.
To attach the guides to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fasten it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.
We align each rail by level.
Important! If you plan to do exterior work, it is best to install the siding sheathing after all insulation work has been completed. In this case, there will be two lathing: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the slats of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.
You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.
Mounting J-profiles
The starting guides must be secured perfectly, because... The quality of the entire cladding depends on the correct installation.
First step. Take a level and find the lowest point on the sheathing. We step back 50 mm from it and put a mark. To do this, screw a little self-tapping screw into the rail.
Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to place marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw screws into the corners of the house.
Third step. We stretch the ropes between the corner marks.
Fourth step. We mark the boundaries of installation of corner profiles on the slats. We take the profile itself, apply it to the corner of the frame structure and put marks along the edges with a pencil.
Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.
Leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.
To avoid making a 6 mm indentation, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.
Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations as long as necessary.
If you install guides that deviate from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to correct this in the future.
Prices for profile mounts
Profile fastenings
We install external corner profiles
First step. We mark the soffits. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be located in the future.
Second step. We apply the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fasten the profile with self-tapping screws.
Place the bottom border of the element 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.
Third step. Checking the vertical installation. If there are no deviations, we fix the bottom, and then the remaining places. Experts do not advise placing fasteners in corner elements too often.
If the house is higher than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be placed one on top of the other. To do this, we trim the top profile. As a result, there should be a 9 mm gap between the planks of the joining elements. When laying the elements, maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.
Important! We join the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.
If the base has a protruding structure, shorten the profile so that there is a 6 mm gap between it and the base.
Helpful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. If you decide to use this method, first glue the wall around a similar corner with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.
We install internal corner profiles
The procedure for installing these elements does not differ significantly from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave a gap of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, and lower the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.
If there is a protruding plinth or other element from below that stands out from the general level, then between it and the profile we also leave a 6-mm indentation - the profile of the internal corner must not rest against it.
There are 3 methods for arranging internal corners, see the picture.
If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we splice the profiles. The technology is the same as for arranging external corners.
We leave a 9mm gap between the slats, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install fasteners in 4-centimeter increments, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the highest point. Here the fasteners need to be installed at the top of the hole.
We install frames of openings
For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing and doorways. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.
Openings in the same plane with the facade
In this case, we do the following.
First step. We waterproof openings.
Second step. We attach platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.
Third step. Connecting profiles.
To make the connection of the platbands as neat as possible, we do this:
The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further laying on the profile below.
Openings are recessed into the facade
When installing near-window profiles, we follow the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. We create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.
Take the time to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the joint of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.
Installing the first panel
We start cladding from the least noticeable wall of the building. This way we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.
First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking connection of the starting strip.
Important! We leave a 6 mm temperature gap between the first cladding element and the lower part of the corner profile lock.
Second step. Attach the panel to the sheathing.
It is important to maintain the dimensions of technological indents. If the cladding is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm gap; if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing panel trims, the indents can be reduced.
Extending panels
We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or using an H-profile.
When attaching panels with an overlap, you must first shorten the locks of the facing panels and the fastening frames so that the resulting overlap has a length of 2.5 cm.
The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, at the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.
Important! We leave a 6mm gap between the H-profile and any obstacles on the house.
Installing the rest of the siding
We continue covering the house with siding. The operating technology is similar to the procedure for attaching the first panel.
Important! Every 2-3 rows we check the horizontality of the cladding using a level.
Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.
We ensure reliable fastening of the panels using “hooks”. For this we need a punch.
We install an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. This will allow the cladding to be leveled.
Installation under the roof
We attach a J-profile under the roof structure.
We work in the following order.
First step. We measure the distance between the bottom of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.
Second step. We subtract a 1-2 mm indent from the resulting measurement.
Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with the locking connection.
Fourth step. We create “hooks” in the upper part of the element in 20-centimeter increments. To do this, we make cuts and bend them to the front side.
Fifth step. We insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, we snap the inserted element into the locking connection of the finishing profile.
We mount the pediment
We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except the top one, are installed in the center of the holes. We install the upper fastening element at the top of the hole. It can be sheathed either with profiles for arranging internal corners or with a starting profile.
The installation procedure is similar to fastening wall panels. We trim the edges of the elements and connect them to the locks of the receiving profiles. We remember the 6 mm indentation when installing in warm weather and 9 mm when doing work in winter.
We fasten the last element of the gable cladding directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.
The cladding is complete.
Find out how, plus calculations and step-by-step guidance, in our new article.
In order for finishing a house with panels to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of performing such work. There is a list of general recommendations for any siding, as well as specific tips for panels made from a specific material.
Now you can perform it yourself at the highest level.
| Name (model) | Benefits | Length x width x thickness, mm | Quantity per package, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl Siding "Canada Plus" | 1. Coloring in dark colors is performed using the “Cool Color” method (heat absorption), which involves the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50°C to +60°C. 3. Retains shock resistance, even if the ambient temperature drops to -20 to 60°C. 4. Not susceptible to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Acrylic Siding "Canada Plus" | Among other useful qualities of Canada Plus acrylic siding, it is worth highlighting: Increased resistance to direct ultraviolet rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as to various fats; Good tolerance to washing with chemical detergents; High degree of deformation resistance (perfectly tolerates temperatures up to 75°-80° C). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| "Alta-Siding" - Vinyl Siding | "Alta siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on the Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures (from -20 to -60°C); resistance to significant temperature changes and environmental influences; durability: the service life of Alta-siding is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (detergents can be used to clean siding); non-susceptibility to infection by mold fungi. | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Facade metal siding INSI | INSI siding is made of galvanized steel coated with a layer of polymer composition, which means it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature changes (-50°C - +80°C) and mechanical damage; long service life with preservation of original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; non-flammability; Possibility of installation both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in a ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance. | Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5 | - |
Good luck!
Siding prices
Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation
There are many materials for self-finishing facades. However, covering a house with siding with your own hands stands out among them due to its low cost and extreme ease of installation. Most often, home craftsmen choose vinyl facade panels for such cladding of their cottage, the installation technology of which we will discuss in detail in this article.
Components and start of work
To properly cover a house with siding from the street, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most of the complaints about self-stuffed PVC cladding then arise precisely because of non-compliance with the banal rules of its installation.
There are several types of vinyl siding planks:
Types of components
Initial – starting rail, the first lowest element;
The main panel is the basic segment of siding covering a house;
Finish – the topmost stripe;
Connecting (docking) – H-profile for joining short panels;
Hinged - ebb protecting the windows and base of the house from precipitation;
Near-window (wide J-profile) - platband for decorating slopes;
Corner (external and internal) – for covering the ends of siding panels at corner joints;
Soffit - a ceiling panel for lining the eaves and gables of houses;
J-trim – narrow universal J-profile.
The variety of plank shapes only simplifies independent cladding. There is a set element for every corner and ledge of the house; you just need to correctly calculate the required number.
Calculation of material for cladding and necessary tools
To calculate consumables, you need to calculate the area of the facade covered with siding, and then divide it by the square footage of the selected panels. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sizes of windows and doors that the house has, removing them from the calculations. You also need to take a 10% margin for adjustment so that everything can be finished without problems or restrictions.
To decorate a house with siding you will need the following set of tools:
Level and plumb;
Ladder;
Screwdriver;
Scissors and hacksaw for metal.
If the walls of the cottage are built of concrete or brick, then you will need a drill to drill holes for the dowels of the sheathing. An angle grinder won’t hurt when doing siding on your own house. It will make cutting the panels easier and faster.
Insulation and waterproofing of the house
Before you start covering the house, you need to clean the walls and seal the cracks in them. Old paint and plaster will not be visible under the siding, but it is better to get rid of them. If the house is made of wood or aerated concrete blocks, then a vapor-permeable waterproofing film must be attached to it under the sheathing.
The insulation is placed between the guides of the frame, which is stuffed under the finishing material in question for the facade of a private house. Next, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Moreover, everything is done so that an air cushion remains between the membrane and the heat insulator on the walls of the house.
DIY siding installation
To attach vinyl panels to the sheathing, you can take:
Screws (self-tapping screws) with a diameter of 3.5–4 mm
Nails with a stem section of 3 mm and a head from 8 mm
Their consumption when decorating a house with siding is calculated based on the step between these hardware on the planks of 30 cm. The fasteners must fit at least 20 mm into the wooden lath or metal profile of the frame. In this case, a space of 1 mm should be left between its cap and the PVC lining. If this is not done, the vinyl siding of the house will warp and ripple when the outside temperature changes.
Assembling sheathing for cladding a house with siding
The sheathing is made vertical or horizontal with a distance between the slats (profiles) of 30–40 cm. These guides must be placed across the main vinyl planks. But by definition there should be no crossbars between them. You need to cover the house with siding yourself so that there is space under the panels for natural air circulation.
To ensure reliable fastening of the PVC cladding, additional support rails are installed around the openings and along the corners of the building. They are also needed in places where lamps and drains are hung on walls. It is necessary to securely fasten not only the facade panels for the exterior decoration of the house, but also various decorative elements on them.
House sheathing
Installing the starting bar
The first to be fixed to the walls is the starting bar. To do this, a rope is pulled level around the house on nails at a height of 3-4 cm from the lower edge of the mounted sheathing. The starting profiles are attached around the perimeter of the building not end-to-end, but at intervals of 5–6 mm in case of thermal expansion.
Installation of low tide and starting bar. Low tides are installed from the corner of the house. The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the ebb strip.
When covering houses with siding, it is extremely important to fix the starting strip correctly and evenly. It serves as the basis for the entire structure of the external cladding. The clarity of the geometric lines and the overall appearance of the siding decoration of a private house depends on it.
Setting internal and external corners
Next, external and internal corners are attached, installed at the joints of two walls. Their lower edge should be located just below the starting strip already attached to the house. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the top hole for fasteners so that the corner hangs on it.
External and internal corners are installed so that the lower edge is 4-6 mm below the starting profile, and the upper part is 1-3 mm below the soffit or cornice
Then the corner is aligned strictly vertically. The remaining screws are screwed down the bar in 30 cm increments in the middle of the holes and not all the way. This is the only way the PVC cladding of the house can “breathe” and not deform.
The corner elements are built up with an overlap. At the bottom of the top bar, the inner side edges are trimmed by 25 mm. It is inserted into the bottom corner by 20 mm, which leaves a gap of 5 mm for thermal expansion.
Installation of strips on door and window openings
The next stage is covering the house openings for windows and doors with platband. In order for everything to turn out beautifully in the end, you will have to work hard here. In the upper horizontal J-profiles you will have to make cuts in the sides with a bend of the cut part of the panel, and in the lower ones you will have to make an angled cut at 45 degrees.
Trimming the window profile
Vertical strips are cut at an angle at the top, and cut out at the bottom with a similar bend on the side. The purpose of all these manipulations is not just to cover the house beautifully with siding, but to join the platbands so that water cannot seep into the joints anywhere.
Installing the main panels
With basic planks everything is much simpler. The first of them just needs to be inserted into the starting profile, and then fixed to the sheathing. The rest will follow one after another. It is the ease of installation of the main panels that allows you to decorate your house with siding with your own hands in literally a day.
If there is not enough siding length, we join several planks through an H-profile. To do this, do not forget to install and secure the connecting H-profile in advance. The distances below and above are the same as for the outer or inner corner
Installation starts from the starting profile and ends with the finishing profile or molding
Don’t forget to make “hooks” at the top of the panel
The finishing strip is attached to the upper edge of the wind board using “hooks” similar to the molding.
Soffits are installed between the molding and the J-bevel
The planks should be fastened from the middle to the edges, placing the screws exactly in the middle of the holes on the edge. The finishing touch to the vinyl cladding of houses is the installation of the finishing panel with the insertion of the topmost main PVC strip into it.
What to consider in order to properly sheathe a house with siding
The technology of work is such that house cladding can be done all year round. But at sub-zero temperatures, the siding should be taken outside in advance so that the material can acclimatize.
If the house is old, then there should be no problems with vinyl paneling. But the new building must be allowed to settle completely, otherwise the façade decor will necessarily be deformed. No amount of clearance will help in this situation.
Numerous photos of houses covered with siding are pleasing to the eye. In order for everything to turn out no worse during self-installation, it is extremely important to follow the installation instructions and leave gaps where necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated under the sun.
Table of temperature gaps
When installing vinyl siding, consider the air temperature according to the table below. For example, if you carry out installation at a temperature of +10 degrees, then the main strip 3.6 m long can lengthen by 8 mm in warmer weather, and shrink by 12 mm in colder weather.
