Do-it-yourself volumetric decoupage in master classes (photo). Decoupage plus stencils equals love Make stencils for decoupage yourself

07.10.202327.05.2017

Stencils for decoupage: master class and 6 necessary items

Using a stencil in decoupage is a quick and easy way to make a product more interesting. Silicone stencils can be purchased at traditional craft stores or you can make your own. Just don’t think that making a stencil is a fairly simple task. This work is complex, painstaking, and requires care and great care. But, if you try, then after it is made, products made with its use will 100% delight you with their exclusivity.

Interesting stencils for DIY decoupage

Everyone has heard about stencils. When they were small, everyone drew neat letters through a stencil. Stencils have been used in decoration for a long time and with success. The fashion for painting walls or other surfaces using a stencil comes and goes, but, one way or another, it returns again.

Such stucco molding looks very elegant on:

Furniture;
Casket;
Tray;
Cutting board and much more.

Stencils have been used in decoupage for a long time. Depending on the material, you may end up with a bas-relief or a convex design. Nowadays, you can find an abundance of ready-made stencils in hand-made stores or creative salons. But what if no drawing fits, what if there is no right size? There is a solution - you can make a stencil with your own hands! The master class will be given below.

If you want to add individuality to your work by decorating it with an unusual design, then make a stencil with your own hands

For work you need to take the following materials:

Office paper;
Plastic folder;
Construction tape;
Breadboard knife;
Old magazine;
Scissors.

The first step is to print or draw a suitable picture or pattern. Then you need to cut a piece from the plastic folder that fits the size of the picture. Secure them with construction tape. Then the most crucial moment, you should cut out according to the design without injuring your fingers. This must be done with a stationery knife, very carefully, cutting through all the elements of the design. A little time and the stencil is ready! Fast and cheap!

Of course, the quality of an industrial stencil is much higher, but this method gives us the opportunity to become the owner of a stencil that is made to our liking at any time of the day!

Using a stencil is not difficult, but after work, be sure to wash it in warm water and soap; the paste, mask, paint or putty will wash off well, and it will last for quite a long time.

Making stencils for decoupage: master class

There is also a great way to make a stencil yourself. It's not complicated. So, you need to cover the printed or drawn pattern for the future stencil with transparent tape for strength and better density, and cut out each fragment. You have to work very carefully. If desired, you can even cut it with manicure scissors! Much easier and faster! You need to cover the design with tape on the front side and the back side, this will provide protection from moisture.

Stencils can be made from any suitable material, even from PVC tiles

The plot is chosen, the one you like, it could be:

Clock face;
Cats;
Cucumbers;
Roof tiles;
Chicken family;
Wedding glasses, whatever you want.

Then you should carefully and carefully cut through each detail according to the drawing. If you don’t have a breadboard knife, you can use nail scissors or a stationery knife. The result is a beautiful and durable stencil. It’s so easy and quick to make your own stencil.

Decoupage with stencil: master class on decorating a refrigerator

If you don’t have drawing skills, then experts recommend using a stencil. The question arises where to get it. You can download interesting motifs on the Internet. Then you need to print out the picture or pattern you like.

Please note that when scaling, the image format may be larger than A4.

In a special program, or at least Paint, you need to split the drawing into files. The parts must be strictly the same size, and when printing, you cannot use the “Stretch to the entire fox” property, as this will result in a bunch of paper. All excess should be cut off, and then the future drawing should be assembled on the floor.

Then you should start decorating:

The entire area of the sheets assembled into one pattern should be sealed with tape.
Each detail of the design should be cut out along the lines.
On the refrigerator you need to make markings for each sheet.
A paper border, approximately 10 cm wide, should be attached to each sheet so that the spray paint does not go beyond the required limits.
All sheets should be numbered, and the same number order should be applied to the refrigerator.

When the work is done, you can start decorating. In the store you need to buy a can of car paint, or just high-quality paint in cans. It is necessary to spray from a distance, little by little, so that smudges do not form.

By decorating a refrigerator with your own hands, you won’t spend a lot of money on it, but you will add some zest to your kitchen.

During the process, each sheet should be secured with magnets. Each layer must dry well, otherwise you can smear the previous work with the border. You can copy a plot of any complexity from a children's coloring book if you have the patience. Even closely spaced elements will not interfere with creating an original and high-quality composition.

Here's how it's done:

The drawing must be scanned;
Templates are printed according to the number of colors in the composition;
From each template you need to cut out the part that needs to be painted;
The sheets must be numbered, which one belongs to which color;
Templates must be used one at a time, and wait until each piece of the pattern dries.

The work can be varnished. Many people will be interested in how to create a background. Self-adhesive films can be used. Thin textured paper can be used. If you use a textured fabric, you will get an interesting background. Imitation leather is also an excellent solution, and in general, any material can be used.

It is important to understand that with the modern choice of finishing materials, there is no need to overpay through the nose for a tool, or buy an airbrush. He can solve the problem himself, as he pleases, according to his home situation and finances. Otherwise, you can hire a professional to do all the work.

Templates and stencils for decoupage

Stencils can be made on different plastic materials, as already mentioned, it can be a structural folder, or you can take it and cut it out of bottles.

The process is simple; for the work you will need the following materials:

Stationery knife;
Plastic bottle;
Printed drawing, pattern, inscriptions, imprints;
Scotch.

A plastic bottle makes great butterfly stencils.

The process of creating a stencil is simple. You need to take the selected design and glue it to a cut-out piece of a plastic bottle. Next, you need to carefully cut through all the elements and the stencil is ready.

You can use it as a template on a round object or any other shaped surface.

How to print a stencil for decoupage

Stencil elements with relief in decoupage are always in demand, and today in many decoupage works you can find a floral or patterned ornament, which is highlighted either in color, or gilding, or is emphasized by “staining” in the recesses.

The drawing is applied using:

Palette knife;
Spatula;
Plastic card.

Printing a stencil for decoupage is not at all difficult, the main thing is to cut it out correctly and accurately for further work

Application is carried out through a base in which slots are made - this is a stencil. For example, stencil designs applied over glaze or stained wood look very original - this is a very delicate work that gives no room for mistakes.

The most convenient stencils are considered to be adhesive-based models. They are firmly fixed to the surface, making it possible to apply paint or relief paste without fear that the design will “go away”. Other options are less convenient; they are fixed with a special spray for temporary fixation, or glued with strips of tape. Barocci stencils are considered the best today; they are the most in demand. They are sold in art stores and online hobby goods stores.

Which stencil to choose for decoupage (video)

Of course, you can buy a stencil and work with it, but if you want to get something special, then the only way out is to make a template yourself, as described above. With a little effort and a creative approach to the process with imagination, you can get an exquisite stencil and decorate interior items in your home or the house of friends.

Similar materials

→ Stencils in decoupage

January 20, 2014

Rraised stencil elements in decoupage they do not lose their relevance - as before, in many decoupage works there is a floral or “curly” ornament, highlighted either in color or gold, or emphasized by staining in the recesses.

Such designs are applied using a palette knife, spatula (or just an old plastic card) through a base in which slits are made in the form of a design - a stencil.

For example, I really like the work of Polish decoupage artists, where stencil designs are applied over glaze or stained wood - this is very painstaking work that leaves no room for error.

I myself really like to use stencils - this is a fairly quick and relatively uncomplicated way to make work more interesting and fill empty space.

The most convenient stencils- those that are adhesive based. They are securely fixed to the surface and allow you to apply paint or relief paste without fear that the design may move out.

The remaining stencils are a little less convenient - you either have to use a special spray to temporarily fix the stencils, or glue the stencils with strips of masking tape.

I have the most stencils from Barocci, perhaps they are the most popular now. You can find them in craft stores and online hobby stores.

A variety of materials can be applied through a stencil:

2. More expensive options - textured or relief pastes, for example, from Tair or Sonnet. (about 150 rubles for 250 g). You can use these pastes not only for working with stencils, but also to create various textures on your work, for example, “Venetian plaster”

3. Modeling gel paste (375 RUR for 250 ml) - this is already a transparent material. It can also be applied through a stencil, but perhaps most beautifully it will look on glass - as if the glass were so convex. This material, however, unlike the first two, must be more carefully leveled at the application stage, because after drying the modeling gel remains a little “rubbery” and cannot be sanded off.

I have video tutorial on using a stencil in the manufacture of a watch dial.
Watch it now:

If you urgently need some unusual stencil, you can make it yourself. To do this, you will need either a durable plastic folder and a sheet with a printout of the design, which will become a stencil, and a sharp knife (collet or scalpel)

Or you can not spoil the folders, but simply stick layers of tape on both sides of the printout of the drawing - and cut out unnecessary pieces with a knife. Thanks to Tanya Chizhikhina for this trick: “Place a rigid pad or sheet of glass under the stencil. Take a scalpel or shoe knife the same way you would take a pencil. Cut the film smoothly and without interruption. Unless absolutely necessary, do not lift the knife from the film and always try to move the knife towards you. In this case, you need to turn the sheet of film, not the knife. Imagine sewing on a sewing machine - the fabric moves relative to the needle, and not vice versa. The knife should always be pointed at you, if possible, and the hand should be located behind the knife and move the sheet. Cut out all the stencil details, as well as the registration marks. As you cut, the sheet of film will become less and less rigid. Therefore, always start with small parts and cut out the central parts first and then move towards the edges. If you accidentally tear one of the bridges, just cover it with transparent tape and cut through the part again.”

I hope this information about stencils will be useful and useful for you :)

And here are examples of works from decoupage, where a relief stencil is also found (the works were done by my students in the course “Aging without craquelure”)

Stencils are gaining more and more popularity among artists and decoupage artists. Today we are sharing with you a large and detailed review of stencils, as well as tricks for working with them.

Stencil (from Italian traforetto) is a device used for applying various symbols, such as letters, numbers and various images, to different surfaces; This term also refers to an image created using this device.

Types of stencils:
1. Background - most often these are small ornaments, curls, which are very convenient to decorate

Decoupage work background. These also include textured stencils - brick, masonry, tiles, tree bark, etc.
2. Borders - ornaments equal along the entire length, which are convenient to use on borders, sides of boxes, etc.
3. Text - stencils with letters, words, phrases, for example, the names of the months of the year for perpetual calendars or holiday greetings.
4. With ornaments - the most common stencils with various stylistic, ethnic and other ornaments.
5. With drawings - silhouettes of people, animals, plants, objects of the living and inanimate world.

Pros of working with stencils:
- easy to learn and use - you don’t need special training to work with stencils, just a little training is enough;
- can be used on almost any surface - modern stencils are made of thin materials (mostly plastic), they bend easily and lie on rounded surfaces;
- using a stencil, applying a design is much easier and faster than drawing;
- you can repeat the same pattern an infinite number of times.

Ways to work with a stencil:
1. Painting a picture
A very common and simple method is stencil painting. Paints are applied with a special brush, sponge, roller, or rag, which allows not only to highlight the design evenly and accurately, but also to achieve various interesting effects. In addition, using paints and a stencil, you can make a multi-color print, create the effect of shadow, volume and glow.
2. Volumetric patterns
Three-dimensional patterns are created using texture/structural paste or putty. The variety of modern materials and stencil designs allows you to create interesting imitations, complex three-dimensional decorative elements and backgrounds on your work.
3. Painting with varnish
This method allows you to achieve a very interesting effect on wooden surfaces. An impression is applied to a clean, sanded wooden surface using a stencil using acrylic varnish. This must be done carefully so that the varnish does not flow under the stencil. It is most convenient to work with a sponge. After the varnish has dried, apply stain to the entire surface. In those places where varnish is applied, the stain will not adhere, and the stencil pattern of natural wood will appear.

Tools for working with stencils:
1. Stencil brush
Art stores sell special brushes for working with stencils - how

They are usually round with dense pile of the same length. The drawing with such a brush is applied through a stencil strictly perpendicular to the surface. The brush should be semi-dry, otherwise excess paint will easily flow under the stencil and ruin the work. To avoid this, tap a brush with paint on a paper towel or palette, as if “knocking off” excess paint, and only after that work with the stencil. If you do not have the opportunity to buy a stencil brush, you can make one from a regular round brush (bristles), cutting the bristles flat perpendicular to the axis of the brush. You can purchase or make your own brushes of different sizes to make it convenient to work with both round and small elements on stencils.
2. Roller
The roller is convenient for working with large stencils or on large surfaces. You need to remove excess paint from the roller, just like from the brush, so that it does not flow under the stencil. To work with rollers, special palette containers are sold that allow you to roll and squeeze the roller for uniform application of paint.
3. Pieces of sponge or foam rubber
It is also convenient to use pieces of foam rubber or a kitchen sponge, or sponges with small pores to apply coloring compositions through a stencil. The paint is applied evenly, and they do not need to be washed every time :)
4. Rags
The paint is applied with a rag in the same way as with a sponge - with poking movements, “smacking”. The surface is painted evenly, and you can also add transitions and interesting effects.
5. Palette knife

Using a palette knife, putty or texture paste is usually applied through a stencil. For the most accurate application, the palette knife should be held as flat as possible to the surface of the stencil, press the stencil tightly against the base and apply strokes in one direction. Even if the putty has gotten a little under the stencil, it can be easily removed with a toothpick or cotton swab. Irregularities in the three-dimensional screen print are smoothed out with sandpaper after complete drying. If you don't have a palette knife on hand, you can replace it with an old plastic card or the tip of a silicone baking spatula :)

Surface preparation before work:
Depending on how we use the stencil, surface preparation will differ.
1. We will make a stencil print in paint over the background or motif.
In this case, the surface with which we will work is varnished in several layers and carefully leveled with sandpaper. We need a smooth surface so that there are no flaws in applying the paint, and the varnish will make it possible to erase the excess when applying the print.
2. We will create volume with putty or paste.
2.1 The stencil pattern is planned on a surface free from the motif and will be in the future

To be painted.
In this case, we prepare the surface as usual - sand it, putty the cracks, if necessary, prime with a thin layer. Next, apply the paste through a stencil, dry it, smooth it with sandpaper and paint it as desired.
2.2 The stencil pattern will be on a motif or on a ready-made background.
This method of work requires maximum precision and accuracy, because it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely remove or sand off imperfections in the paste. We recommend that you practice on unnecessary boards before starting to use this technique. And in order to reduce errors to a minimum, just like before applying paint, we sand the surface and level it with sandpaper so that the stencil lies flat and possible imperfections can be removed with a toothpick or a cotton swab. With this method of working with a stencil, putty or paste tinted with acrylic paint is usually used.

Fixing the stencil on the surface:
1. Special glue for stencils - sold in art stores in the form of a spray. Easy to apply, rinse off, leaves virtually no residue. Relatively expensive pleasure. Perfect
Suitable for rounded surfaces.
2. Masking tape is a lifesaver for decoupage artists in many cases, including when fixing a stencil on a surface, if the size of the workpiece and the stencil itself allows.
3. In many cases, you can get by with the decoupage artist’s favorite tool - your fingers - just press the stencil to the surface and work.
4. Many stencils are sold with glue already applied to one of the sides; they are very convenient to use, although after a while the glue wears off and additional application is required.
5. There are also stencils made of special material that stick well to smooth surfaces (glass, ceramics, candles). To fix such a stencil on rough surfaces
additional application of glue or use of tape is required.

Stencil care:
Stencils used in decoupage most often do not require any special care.

The most important thing is to wash the stencil from putty and texture paste immediately after use, otherwise, after the composition has hardened, it is almost impossible to clean it, the stencil will be damaged. If it is not possible to wash the stencil immediately (you need to correct the print or paste on the surface, wipe off excess), place it under running water so that it does not have time to dry. You need to store the stencil flat (preferably horizontally) to avoid bends or creases. It is convenient to store stencils in a folder or plastic corner.

Decoupage: the use of stencils in works.

Alisa Luchinskaya

Stencils are a fairly quick and relatively easy way to add interest to your work and fill up empty space.

The most convenient stencils are those with an adhesive base. They are securely fixed to the surface and allow you to apply paint or relief paste without fear that the design may move out.
The remaining stencils are a little less convenient - you have to either use a special spray to temporarily fix the stencils, or glue the stencils with strips of masking tape.

A variety of materials can be applied through a stencil:

1. The most inexpensive material is wood putty. A 250g jar of Tex putty costs around 50 rubles in a hardware store, but it will last for many times. And if you stir it periodically and add a little water, it will last even longer.
2. More expensive options - textured or relief pastes, for example, from Tair or Sonnet. (about 150 rubles for 250 g). You can use these pastes not only for working with stencils, but also to create various textures on your work, for example, “Venetian plaster”
3. Modeling gel paste (375 RUR for 250 ml) - this is already a transparent material. It can also be applied through a stencil, but perhaps most beautifully it will look on glass - as if the glass were so convex. This material, however, unlike the first two, must be more carefully leveled at the application stage, because after drying the modeling gel remains a little “rubbery” and cannot be sanded off.

Video tutorial on using a stencil when making a watch dial.

If you urgently need some unusual stencil, you can make it yourself . To do this, you will need either a durable plastic folder and a sheet with a printout of the design, which will become a stencil, and a sharp knife (collet or scalpel)

Or you can not spoil the folders, but simply stick layers of tape on both sides of the printout of the drawing - and cut out unnecessary pieces with a knife. Thanks to Tanya Chizhikhina for this trick: “Place a hard pad or a sheet of glass under the stencil. Take a scalpel or shoe knife the same way you would take a pencil. Cut the film smoothly and without interruption. Unless absolutely necessary, do not lift the knife from the film and always try to move the knife towards you. In this case, you need to turn the sheet of film, not the knife. Imagine sewing on a sewing machine - the fabric moves relative to the needle, and not vice versa. The knife should always be pointed at you, if possible, and the hand should be located behind the knife and move the sheet. Cut out all the stencil details, as well as the registration marks. As you cut, the sheet of film will become less and less rigid. Therefore, always start with small parts and cut out the central parts first and then move towards the edges. If you accidentally tear one of the bridges, just cover it with transparent tape and cut through the part again.”

Decoupage, craquelure and aging techniques were used to decorate the lid of the box.

The side walls of the box are decorated with three-dimensional patterns created using stencils.

The inside of the box is lined with velvet.

Let's look at the whole decorating process step by step.

To decoupage the box we will need the following materials:

making a box,
rosewood stain,
flat brushes (bristles, synthetic)
wood putty,
acrylic paints,
stencil,
acrylic varnish,
artistic oil paint gold and brown.
VARNISH “FOR OIL AND ACRYLIC PAINTING” No. 678, No. 688 (of this craquelure pair you will only need the first step 678),
foam sponge,
velvet, scissors,
mirror

Decoupage of the “Rose of Katarina” box

Step #1. We sand the box blank and, if the fittings allow, disassemble it. My box turned out not to be collapsible. We make an oval of the required size from paper and transfer it to the lid of the box, this is where we will have the decoupage of the rose.

Step #2. Prime the area marked for the image with white acrylic paint or primer.

Step #3. Then we cover the entire box inside and out with stain. In my work, I used the construction product for wood protection Texturol, Rosewood color

Step #4. After the stain has dried. Paint the lid of the box in the color shown in the picture. I tried to choose a green color that matches the tone of the greenery. After the paint has dried, use a piece of foam sponge to create abrasions, as shown in the photo. Then we cover the paint layer with decoupage varnish.

Decoupage with stencil master class

Step #5. We put the stencil on the lid of the box and apply plaster with a palette knife, remove the stencil. We wait until the pattern dries, then we make patterns on the sides of the box in the same way.

Step No. 6. If necessary, lightly process the resulting relief with sandpaper, and then cover it with a layer of stain.

Step #7. What happened already looks good, but I decided to highlight the ornament even more by painting it with acrylic paints. I highlighted the roses with muted pink.

Step No. 8. Then I highlighted the leaves in green.

Decoupage boxes master class

Step No. 9. Print a picture of a rose on photo paper. We will cover it with four layers of acrylic varnish. Then, using the template, we will cut out the oval image we need. We will glue the printout to the place prepared for it. We will cover it with several layers of acrylic varnish.

Step #10. To obtain a fine craquelure mesh, we will use the first composition No. 678 from the two-step craquelure kit from Maimeri (Italy). Apply this composition to the surface of the picture and dry it with a hairdryer.

Craquelure boxes

Step No. 11. Rub the resulting cracks with artistic oil paint. It is golden in the center, and brown closer to the edges. Let the paint dry for two or three days and wash off the previously applied layer of craquelure composition from the image.

Step #12. Let's highlight the image using an edging made up of dots drawn with an acrylic outline.

Step #13. Let's tint the edging so that it is in harmony with the picture. Once again we will coat the entire box with varnish.

Decoration of the box with velvet

Step No. 14. We trim the inside of the box with velvet. To do this, we carefully measure all sides of the inner surface and make templates.

Step #15. Using the templates, we cut out pieces of velvet. We coat the walls of the box with thick PVA glue. and let them dry slightly. We apply the velvet to the walls and carefully smooth it with a rubber spatula.

Step #16. We glue a mirror to the inside of the lid and also frame it with tinted dots.

Step #17. This is the box I got.

Aging a mirror

Step No. 18. Now let's start aging the mirror. Let's take an ordinary Chinese mirror in a plastic frame and try to give it a vintage look.

Step No. 19. To begin, carefully wipe the entire surface of the mirror frame with cotton pads soaked in solvent. Let's remove the non-resistant yellow paint from the surface. Cover the mirror surface with paper. We will paint the frame with spray paint the color of old gold.