Someone may object: "What can be grown in the fall?" You can grow and plant, it all depends on the goal that you set for yourself. This issue should be understood in more detail, since there is a difference between just planting in the fall and growing in the fall, and both of these concepts fit the phrase "autumn crops".
Let's deal with the first one - growing. There are crops with a short growing season, that is, these are crops whose ripening period lasts 20 - 30 days. These are mainly green crops and root crops, namely: lettuce, spinach, dill, onions, watercress, Peking cabbage (sometimes it manages to ripen in the middle latitudes of Russia, but here, you need to pick up early varieties in excess), radishes, radishes, turnip - as well as Chinese cabbage, with the selection of the appropriate varieties. Such crops are cold-resistant, and they feel the need for a temperature of 15 - 20 degrees, therefore, our summer planting of crops such as radish, radish, turnip, Chinese cabbage is not always crowned with success, and here autumn plantings come to the rescue. After the summer heat, you will enjoy juicy, aromatic and crunchy root vegetables. You will not notice that, besides everything, there are tomatoes and peppers on the table, you will simply be pleased to taste these products. All these crops can be grown in the fall, but observing the basic rules of agricultural technology.
First and foremost, plant immediately after harvesting the main crops, since the deadlines are very tight, not a day is wasted. Second, these are the conditions of the soil, it must be loose, water and air permeable. It is advisable to plant plants on a southern slope or in areas protected from northern winds. This will shorten the period of growth and development vegetable crops... Before planting, you should fertilize the soil well; you can and should add nitrogen fertilizers. Form the rollers, between which you will have plants, the width between the rollers is 35 - 45 cm. Particular attention should be paid to additional covering materials. Already in early September, there is a high probability of night frosts. And since the leaves of the same radish turn black at minus 3 - 5 degrees, we need to think about how we can cover it. It can be anything from plastic sheeting and window frames to rags and newspapers that you put directly on the rollers. But in spite of everything, my advice to you, use spunbond - a white material similar to fabric, but it transmits light, water and air, unlike film. There is no need to remove the film before watering, and the threat of overheating. Because the spunbond is so light, it can be thrown directly onto plants.
Now let's talk about autumn plantings. To get a harvest in early summer or even in spring, plantings are made in the fall, they are often called winter crops. Since, in the spring, every minute is precious, and we do not always have time to stick the seed into the ground, autumn crops come to the rescue. These can be crops of carrots, garlic, onions, spinach, rhubarb, sorrel, parsley, dill and other crops.
To obtain onions on a feather in early spring, they are planted onion 10 - 15 days before the cold snap, so that it has time to take root and not to loose its "feathers" too much. The turnip is planted with a half-bridge, or by a bridge method. This is when the bulbs are planted close to each other, without any distance between them. Thus, the row can be of any width, but considering that you have to water and pluck it, make a row about a meter wide, and row spacings 30 - 40 cm. The bulbs are planted by pressing a little into the soil, and then sprinkled with earth.
Garlic is planted in mid or late September. The soil for it is prepared in the fall, garlic is very responsive to pre-sowing soil cultivation. They plant it in a wide-row way with row spacing of 45 cm, and in a row the distance between rows is 5 - 8 cm from each other. The seeding depth of the cloves is 6 - 8 cm. It is advisable to cover the garlic with hay, straw, corn stalks after the autumn planting.
All other crops have similar requirements, the main thing is that their seeds do not have time to germinate in the fall, so they should be planted just before the frosts. Of course, you need to select the appropriate varieties. Heavy, humus-poor, acidic soils are not suitable for such crops. When covering such crops with straw, hay, and other materials, make sure that there are no nests of mice, rats or other small pests under them, so their surface burrows will not allow you to see the planned harvest next year or that planting materialthat you used in the fall. You can easily decompose mousetraps or poisoned baits.
Thus, using autumn plantings, you extend the period of consumption of fresh, home-grown vegetables. Special efforts, as you can see, will not be required, but on the other hand, you can get an additional harvest of vegetables in the first case, or save time and get early, more friendly shoots in the spring. Both options are a good help for a modern summer resident, who counts every minute and every clap of the earth.
The intensive gardening season in central Russia ends in October, and many gardeners have a period of forced idleness. However, the time freed up in autumn can be successfully used for the subsequent improvement of the garden plot, having made the necessary reserve for spring work. For example, in the fall, before the onset of stable, morning frosts, many flower plants can be sown. Planting suitable flowers in autumn has the following advantages:
· Time is saved during intensive planting operations in spring;
· Flowers planted in autumn will begin to bloom much earlier than those planted in spring;
· Many bulbous flowers require stratification, so the winter drop in soil temperature will replace artificial natural stratification.
Dates of autumn crops.
In most European regions of Russia, the best time for autumn planting of plants is considered the period of the onset of stable autumn cold weather, which falls in mid - late October - early November. Despite the presence of morning frosts, when the upper soil layer freezes under freezing, seeds can be sown until a stable snow cover falls. Of course, the frozen soil will somewhat complicate the sowing work, but in the daytime this problem disappears. In addition, many gardeners with experience of autumn planting, in advance, on warm autumn days, form beds for sowing seeds and dig grooves. 
Features of autumn crops.
Autumn sowing implies more frequent (thickened) and deeper sowing of seed. This requirement is caused by the inevitable freezing of some part of the seeds in the winter. In order for the upper soil layer, which is filled with seeds, not to become too compacted in winter, which will prevent the penetration of sprouts in spring, the surface of the planted with seeds is mulched with a thin layer of humus or peat. Autumn watering of crops is not only optional, but also undesirable, since suddenly warm days will provoke seed germination, and autumn crops can be ruined. In the spring, intensive watering is also not required for pre-winter crops. The soil moisture accumulated during the melting of the snow cover will be quite enough for the development of plants. 
Autumn crops of annual flowering plants.
Annual flowers are most suitable for autumn sowing:
asters, Iberis bitter and umbrella, garden cornflowers and poppies, sea alyssum, calendula officinalis, gypsophila, large-flowered godetia, double-feathery cosmea, three-month lavatera, escholtia, nigella, snapdragon, malcolmia primoriema, matthiola dvurrudumaya -purple, fragrant mignonette, clarkia marigold, collinsia varifolia, delphinium Ajax, Chinese carnation, adonis
and many others.
All of these flowers should be sown in a permanent spring-summer-autumn bloom site. Most of these flowers are critical for spring transplanting, which will negate all the benefits of pre-winter sowing. If the winter was not frosty, and a thickened planting was formed in the spring, the plants should be thinned out. The beds with aster, with the onset of spring thaws, must be covered with plastic wrap. 
Autumn crops of perennial plants.
Seed (planting) material of many perennial flowers requires stratification. When spring planting it is performed by placing the planting material in the refrigerator. Autumn sowing itself implies natural stratification during winter frosts.
Stratification is required for such colors like lavender, tulips, delphinium, primrose, gentian, aquilegia, hellebore, doronicum, gailardia, lychnis, lupine, peach-leaved and Carpathian bell, obrieta, carnation, chamomile, arabis, yarrow, small-thistle, winter-hardy varieties, cyclamen, alpine , buzulnik, spurge, popovnik, rudbeckia, geyhera,
and some other plants. 
Autumn crops of vegetable crops.
The seeds of a number of vegetable crops sown in the fall will allow the gardener to get the harvest next summer 1 ... 3 weeks earlier than with the spring planting. For autumn sowing use:
dill, lettuce, parsley, celery, physalis, parsnip, spinach, sorrel, rhubarb, cilantro, radish, arugula, cucumber herb, salad mustard, cauliflower, red-headed cabbage, Chinese cabbage, carrots, black onions (seeds), beetroot, tomato seeds ...
There are two types of garlic, spring and winter (arrowhead). Planting winter garlic cloves or bulbs in the fall is not only desirable, but required.
The term for planting planting stock of garlic is mid-September - October. In order for it to be able to take root before the autumn frosts, the garden with garlic is covered with straw, dry grass, or mulched with peat. If desired, in the fall, you can plant onions - sets. This will give the opportunity to get an earlier harvest in the coming season. At the same time, the planting of the bulbs is carried out in depth, which will prevent their winter freezing.
Video Podzimny sowing of flowers and greenery.
Autumn has already come into its own, the gardens are filled with bright colors of the new season - asters, chrysanthemums and dahlias are burning with bright colors, the leaves are turning yellow ... real cold weather is not far off, and with them the end of the next gardening season.
However, experienced gardeners know that autumn is a time of many worries and troubles necessary to prepare for the next season. Among them are autumn crops.
Podzimny sowing of annual and perennial flowers implies planting already on frozen ground - in late October - early November, or even in the snow - in December - January. However, you need to start preparing for the winter sowing of flowers now: prepare the soil, ridges and, of course, stock up on seeds.
If you have never sowed before winter, the very thought of this method of growing flowers can make you shiver chilly: how can you throw them, tender, right into the snow? In fact, it is sowing many flowers in the winter that often gives the best results.
Pros and cons of winter crops
So, why do you need to sow flowers in cold weather?In their natural habitat, flowers, as a rule, reproduce quite independently. After ripening, the seeds fall into the soil, spend the winter under the snow, and begin to germinate with the first rays of the sun. That is, such sowing creates natural conditions for growth (of course, we are talking mainly about frost-resistant plants).
In this situation, the plants are hardened and grow stronger and more resilient than when grown in greenhouse conditions. They are quite capable of withstanding spring frosts, are resistant to diseases and good growth... In addition, hardened plants develop a healthier and deeper root system that allows them to draw water from deeper soil layers. This, in turn, means better resistance to drought and weeds.
By the way, annuals sown in the fall usually bloom about a week earlier than their counterparts sown in spring.
In addition, in the spring you do not have to worry about whether the ground has already warmed up enough for planting. Plants will sprout themselves at the most optimal time for them. Hence, another definite plus: the release of your time in the spring and empty windowsills! Winter crops eliminate the need to tinker with seedlings of these crops.
As for the disadvantages of autumn sowing of annual crops, here we can name, first of all, the relatively low germination of seeds (when compared with the seedling method of growing). For this reason, when sowing in autumn, the seeds are usually sown much denser than in spring, and this, in turn, increases the consumption of seeds.
Winter thaws are also dangerous for podwinter crops. The seeds may wake up prematurely, and in this case, of course, all the sprouts will die in subsequent frosts.
And, of course, not all flowers can be planted in cold weather. The heat-loving exotic originating from the southern latitudes will simply die under the snow.
But plants grown in this way will be much stronger than seedlings, and as for germination, you can always notice in the spring those crops that did not sprout or sprout poorly, and duplicate sowing in a timely manner.
As for perennials, there are even more reasons to sow in autumn. The fact is that many species of perennial ornamental plants for seed germination, it is necessary - that is, cold treatment. In order to grow these flowers by seedling method, the soaked seeds are kept in the refrigerator for 2-3 months. However, it is much easier to sow these seeds in the ground before winter, and then stratification will take place naturally without much effort on your part.
Most perennials develop much more successfully during podzimnuyu sowing. And if you cover the seedlings with foil in the spring, you can often even achieve their flowering in the first year of life.
As for the germination of perennial seeds during autumn planting, it is much higher than that of annual plants.
Autumn sowing of annuals
The first rule when planting annual crops in the fall is to sow in already frozen ground. Otherwise, the seeds may germinate prematurely and die at the first frost.However, it is necessary to start preparing the soil in advance - in late September - early October, before the ground freezes. It is worth carefully planning the site for planting so that in the spring the seeds are not washed away by melt water.
To prepare the soil in the selected area, it is necessary to dig up, fertilize and make shallow grooves or holes. The depth of the grooves is calculated based on the selected plant species: for large seeds, a depth of about 4-5 centimeters is needed, for medium - about 2, for small - no more than 1 centimeter.
In addition, it is worth stocking up in advance with a substrate for sprinkling seeds. Since during the winter the topsoil can become very compacted, which will impede emergence, it is recommended to sprinkle the crops with a thin layer of peat, humus or light soil mixture from compost, peat with sand or humus with sand.
You can start sowing in two terms: in November-December, when the topsoil freezes, or in the snow, in December-January. In any case, the seeds should be sown denser than in the spring.
When sowing in late autumn, the seeds are placed in the grooves and sprinkled with prepared soil mixture. From above, you can additionally cover the crops with a layer of fallen leaves.
For winter sowing (in December-January, when the snow layer is at least 25 centimeters), the soil is prepared in the same way (digging, fertilizing), but there is no need to make grooves in the ground, since the seeds are sown directly into the snow.
Snow is trampled down, grooves are made in it, seeds are placed in them. On top, the crops are sprinkled with a layer of prepared (unfrozen) soil mixture or peat and additionally with a layer of snow.
In the spring, seedlings will need to be thinned out.
Some of the annuals suitable for winter sowing:, dimorphoteka champlevé and rain, bitter and umbellate, collinia varifolia, double-pinnate and sulfur-yellow, keeled, sowing and crowned, Malcolmia maritime, 
Drummond,.
Autumn sowing of perennials
The soil for the autumn sowing of perennial flowers is prepared in the same way as for the summer ones: they dig up, apply fertilizers and make grooves. Sowing starts from mid-October to early November. Seeds are also sprinkled with a thin layer of prepared soil mixture.In the spring, after the snow melts, it is advisable to cover the sowing bed with foil. Thus, you will speed up the flowering of perennials, and at the same time save the seeds from birds and spring rains. After the shoots appear, the film should be removed.
