Petunia how to care for home. Petunia ampelnaya and cascade. Description Petunia as a decorative plant.

Charming perennial plant for growing in the garden and at home, one of the most unpretentious annuals, a successful solution for balconies, containers and suspended porridge, fragrant honey with a rich color scheme, an indispensable partner in urban flower beds and border compositions - all this can be said about loved many petunias . It has such a unique natural charm, thanks to which even simple varieties with conventional monophonic flowers always look fabulously air, not to mention the amazingly beautiful hybrids and varieties specially created by breeders. But among them there are copies with a motley color of flowers (one-, two and even three-color!), Various form (simple, terry, with a corrugated edge) and sizes (large and small-bedroom), growth character (bush, ampel, cascading ) and even different resistance to weather conditions (wind and rain). It is amazing that with such a chic diversity, almost all petunias make easily fulfillment of landing requirements and, in a slight exception, to care, and this, of course, opens up great opportunities in their use. Although, however, as practice shows, the success of the cultivation of petunia is sometimes highly dependent on the selected way of planting.

Before planting petunias on the site, it is necessary to consider that it is biologically a plant with many years, but in regions with an average annual temperature below 10 ° C. Cees need to be either regularly grown exclusively as annual, or to ensure it in winter in a well-lit cool (10 - 12 ° C ) Room. This technique allows, on the one hand, to extend the bloom of culture in the fall, and on the other - annually early in the spring planting material In the form of cuttings for rooting. One of the favorable properties of Petunia can be considered a good tendency to self-sow, thanks to which it can "plan" on the site even without a flower intervention. However, if we consider that this plant is very heat-loving, and from the germination of seeds to blooming from different varieties, the timing can range from 70 to 90 days, in the harsh climate of petunias for early and more prolonged flowering, it is strongly recommended to grown only. For abundant flowering, it should grow on a fertilized loam in a well-lit place, as a last resort - in a scattered half, and get enough moisture with watering. And although practical experience confirms that the petunia landed in the garden can adapt to any type of soil (even to poor sandy and clay) and lighting, on the heightened soil and in the shade of her bloom will be noticeably weaker, and on heavy raw plots it will more often be sick As in the other case, will entail the loss of the expected decorativeness.

Selection of varieties of petunia

Oddly enough, the most difficult and for flowerflowers with experience, and for beginners, sometimes the choice of varieties. After all, it needs to be done not only on the basis of the shade of flowers, but also so that the plant harmoniously fit into the overall composition. Despite the fact that Petunia is considered to be a good partner for other seasons (), it is best to grow and most decoratively looks precisely on a separate flower bed, where, ideally, it is desirable to combine no more than 2 - 3 shades (1 - 2 different varieties). This is especially true of low and dwarf varieties and hybrids ("Duo Mixed", "Erfurt"), which in the total flower garden can drowning aggressive partners, as well as ampel specimens that occupy a lot more space on the flower beds than ordinary bushes. Petunia. Best of all low-grade varieties are suitable for landing in suspended baskets and containers, ampel-optimal - optimal for decorating the slopes, decorating arbors, balconies, outdoor terraces, original wire or wooden supports and frames for hanging baskets or porridges, and bushes petunias can become just a find when designing Compositions with "unusual" containers from old dishes, household appliances, stumps, barrels, etc.

When choosing a petunia, you should consider characteristic of different varieties. For example, the large-flowered (Grandiflora) Petunia blooms 15-20 days later than small-bedroom (Multiflora), and at the same time in the amount of flowers significantly inferior to the latter. As for the sustainability of adverse conditions, then small-ceiling petunias, although they suffer greatly from rain and wind, but quickly restored, and large-flowered, especially terry, not only lose decorativeness for a long time (the flowers after the rain are glued together), but they generally refuse flowering In cold raw weather. An alternative and the other can be a group of abundant petunia (Floribunda), the varieties of which are characterized by large size of the flower, and sufficient rain and wind resistance. Among the ampel petunitions entering the sale should be distinguished by "real ampels" and "half-chases". The first (Explorer varieties, Purple Velvet, the "Wonder Wave" series and others) shoot a little thinner and they still begin to develop horizontally, forming the long falling shoots - "blinds", and the middle of an adult bush It has small "propellas". Semi-chase (cascading petunias "Ramblin", "Double Cascade", "Opera Supreme", "Partitunia", etc.) are characterized by a smaller length and nature of shoots of shoots - they first grow up, and then begin to freeze under their own weight, thanks What a thick magnificent blooming "pillow" or a cascade is formed.

Please note: Ampelnaya petunias are often received by Sortobroups - not as ampel Petunia, but as a Tumbelina (Conchita), Fortune (Fortunia), Surfinia, SuperTunia and even Calibrahoa (Calibrachoa). Calibaho, by the way, according to botanical features, it applies to another family at all, although it is very similar to the same cum and externally different from most petunias only smaller (no more than 3 - 4 cm in diameter) flowers and leaves. All listed plants are not only characterized by abundant flowering and enviable stability to any weather conditions (including drought), diseases and pests, but also impose absolutely identical requirements for landing and care (even Calibrahoa), so the newcomer is not at all necessary to understand their differences. Unless to carefully choose a rain-protected place for terry ampels - copies from the Tumbelina, Fortunia and Conchita variety. However, it is necessary to clarify that the manufacturer's power of growth and the size of the bushes All ampeline petunias demonstrate only with sufficient heat, therefore the same calibero and sannia, of which in Japan create chic 1.5 - 2-meter floral "fountains", "Waterfalls "And" mountain rivers ", in our cooler climate, even with the best care will look much more compact. Since ampeline petunias tie very little seeds and do not always retain varietal signs during seed reproduction, they usually come to the sale, but Fortune is an exception, since the seeds of its hybrids (F1) are sold in flower shops.

Buying seeds

If we were talking about seeds, it must be said that with their purchase of flowerflowers, unfortunately, can wait for disappointment. As practice shows, petunia seeds usually show a good germination, but the plants grown do not always correspond to the characteristics specified on the packaging. And not only in cases where the "by inheritance" rarely passes the terrace of flowers, but even when even the color of the flowers and the nature of growth in seedlings is radically different from the pattern on the package, and almost all ampel hybrids are sold under the common name "Flower avalanche " Alas, unscrupulous manufacturers have such a situation - by no means uncommon, therefore it is strongly recommended to acquire any sowing / landing material, and even better - give preference already ready seedlings, and the blooming, which is in any case there will be better untested seeds.

Planting seedlings

Buying already ready seedlings of Petunia is the easiest way to plant this plant, suitable for beginners, and for too busy flowerflowers. Moreover, today the choice of varieties and hybrids in flower and online stores provides this opportunity to almost everyone. The main thing is to "determine" the purchased seedlings in a well-lit place with nutritional soil and organize regular care. Since Petunia roots are powerful enough, for normal development, several plants need to plant at least 20 - 30 cm from each other (depending on the growth strength of selected varieties). If the landing is made in containers, suspended porridge or balcony baskets, on the bottom of the landing capacity you need to put drainage from the clay, and it is desirable to add hydrogel to the nutrient, which will help to prevent errors in the organization of irrigation in the future. Water and breathable soil can be purchased ready for petunition or make up peat and river sand (2: 1: 1). To make ampel varieties in the future, the maximum decorativeness, the tanks need to be selected so that each plant accounted for at least 6 to 7 liters, and ideally put in large ampels in separate containers (vases) or separate flowerba (for example, After bulbous), where they will form a pretty blooming "carpet" or "pillow". In order for the plants to quickly fit and immediately moved into growth, the landing procedure should be carried out already in the warm season - not before the end of April - the beginning of May.

Landing Cherenkov

Easily more complicated - to root the cuttings of Petunia itself and put it on the site. This method is ideal for reproduction of particularly valuable and most decorative varieties, but it requires certain skills from gardener. Purely theoretically cut the cuttings (the tops of the shoots with 4-5 leaves) in Petunia can be in the entire growing season, since the ideal conditions for their rooting are heat (20 - 23 ° C) and at least 10-hour day. But since the plants grown from cuttings are blooming in an average of 1 - 1.5 months, then summer shots makes sense only when young petunias winter in a coolness (10 - 16 ° C) and with good lighting, and it may even be The tent of the plants are not every flower water can afford. It is much easier to organize the same wintering one - two uterine plants, drawing up in February or early spring and whole summer to enjoy the flowering of young copies in the garden. Please note: Introducing gorgeous petunias are often grown in the accelerated surveillance mode using growth / flowering stimulants and, according to experts, are worse suitable for overlooking than grown personally, for example, from seeds. But if you have already acquired a delicacy of a rare beauty, do not be lazy to shine it in the summer and leave one to the wintering one - two young plants together with the royal bush, which before the first frosts need to cut a little bit and translate into a separate pot. After a short "rest" with a very moderate watering and regular backlight, at approximately at the end of the winter, Petunia will begin to actively vegetate, so they can begin to feed them, more often water and longer (up to 16 hours a day) to heal. When the uterine plant is already shaped into a more or less lush bush, cut the cuttings, remove the lower leaves from them and immediately put on rooting - either simply put into water with dissolved gangbage tagging, or put in the light nutritional soil, half mixed with swinging river sand . The cuttings of terry varieties are definitely planted into the soil, as they are rooted in water worse, and for more successful completion of the process, use also rooters and organize a mini-greenhouse over the "landings". With sufficient warm, light diffuse lighting and daily short ventilation, for 7-10 days, the roots grow practically on all cuttings, so they can already be disassembled into separate small containers, and in the future as they grow - to quote and roll into large pots (containers ) Or immediately disembark on a permanent place.

Sowing seeds

Very often beginners, focusing on the relative unpretentiousness of adult petunitions, are trying and, alas, disappointed. First, some admit a rough mistake - seize the seeds collected from already growing terry and ampeline petunitions and in most cases do not receive plants with expected characteristics. Secondly, due to unscrupulous manufacturers from seedlings, very different plants grow (not terry, other color, etc.). And thirdly, in no experience of growing seedlings of beginners because of the wrong leaving, the seedlings often sick and die. In order not to "fill cones", buy seeds only from proven company suppliers and better give preference to the driving. Very small petunia seeds due to excessive blowout may not be generous, so the soil for their sowing should be sifted through the fine sieve, and the seeds themselves or mix with sand, or sow the layer of fine sand or snow scattered by soil. It is impossible to sprinkle them from above, maximum - gently seal with a spoon or a wooden blade and water the container with sowing through the pallet until the soil flux or with a syringe, so as not to wash the seeds. With the dredge seeds, of course, it is much more convenient to work: they are not so afraid of the plugs and they can generally plant them immediately. Under the condition of sufficient heat (20 - 23 ° C) and high humidity (under glass, in greenhouse), the seeds are glued to the maximum in a week, after which the seedlings should be organized to avoid pulling (16 - 18 ° C) content and good lighting. If seeds are sowing very early (in January-February), you need to take care of, and if in March - can be content with natural lighting. The biggest problem in all this process is to save seedlings from the season and the convergence, which is why they are amazed by fungal diseases and die quickly. Therefore, as they grow, they need to be avoided, or at the age of 2 - 4-present leaflets to dive into separate containers. To stimulate branching, after a rustling of 4 - 5 leaves, seedlings are recommended to discharge the tops. In general, from sowing seeds before landing seedlings for a permanent place, taking into account the time of pre-hardening, is approximately two to three months, so this method of planting petunia is the most time consuming, and the longest, but if desired and the availability of sufficient areas, too You can easily simplify. For this, seeds are needed in March immediately sow into portable containers (the same old holes thase), cover them with Loutrasil and put in a fairly lit room - on a glazed balcony, loggia or veranda. They germinate the seeds a little longer, but the seedlings are as a result, they get tightly and less ill, and containers with grown petunias with the arrival of heat can be simply transferred to a permanent place.

Care for Petunia

As a rule, petunias landed on the flowerbed or in open sadneed less care than growing in containers. If the first for abundant flowering is quite regular irrigation after the light drying of the soil and removing faded colors, then the latter also should be organized. Fertilizers (complex with the predominance of potassium and phosphorus, vermistim, humats, infusion, etc.) optimally contribute no more than 2 weeks, and, in the ideal, feeding it is desirable to spend only after irrigation and a concentration to reduce 2 times from the package indicated on the package, so How cobbled petunias can abandon flowering. The absence or delay in flowering and in general development can be observed in petunitions and against the background of poor weather conditions or chlorosis, but then it is also accompanied by the leaf twisting in the first case, and in the second - their yellowing. After estimating the appearance of the ill-dimensional plants, it is necessary to carry out the corresponding "treatment": a short cessation and feeding and polishes are shown to the penetration of petunitions; in conditions of insufficient lighting or heat - spraying with "zircon" or "epic"; And petunias with the first signs of chlorosis - processing iron chelat (according to the instructions).

The defeat of petunitions (and seedlings, and adult plants) diseases and pests most often occurs on the background of the wrong / uneven irrigation, so the beginners need to be ready for this. Due to the lack of moisture, the seedlings of Petunia quickly dies, and adult plants in the heat lose the leaves, form small flowers, bloom less long and often suffer from attacks and. With sudden temperature drops in combination with increased air humidity (irregular ventilation) and the revengery of soil Petunia may suffer from fungal diseases - black legs (mostly affects seedlings), even even dangerous for adult plants), wet rot, phytoofluorosis, etc. . At the first signs of pests and diseases, the necessary processing of insecticides should be carried out (type "Taurus") and fungicides ("Profit", "Oxycho", "Ridomil MC", etc.), respectively, to spray plants and from above, and at the base. In order to prevent prevention, it is recommended not to thicken the crops and landing of petunition, to provide them with sufficient aeration, prevent the obese of plants, do not get involved in nitrogen feeding and not use for watering too cold and rigid (provokes chlorosis) water, and during the flowering period to give preference watering under the root.

Picker

The question of the feasibility of trimming () petunia should be solved depending on the varietal characteristics and, in fact, the desire of the flower. Theoretically, even the usual removal of faders or spoiled from behind the rain, you can constantly stimulate this plant to flowering, but if the petunition in the garden is too much and pay attention to each does not always work on time, after the active spring blossom wave they begin to gradually lose decorativeness - flowering shifts to the ends of the gentle shoots, and the flowers themselves are minor. If the petunias at this time slightly "cut down" - to shorten shoots on 2/3 - after a couple of weeks, they will go into growth with new forces and will grow abundantly. Here, by the way, the flower can be very reversed by young plants (seedlings) grown in the second wave (later for a couple of weeks) sowing seeds / shots and planted in portable containers - they will just take blossoms and help temporarily "cover up" circumcised petunias for the period Their "Resuscitation". Unfortunately, this technique is not suitable for all varieties and hybrids, since the terry and large-flower dwarf varieties have a strong trimming can stimulate the furnace of colors, and this procedure is shown in the spring and ampeline petunias. Experts are generally advised at ampel (cascading) petunitions not only to pinch the tips of the shoots for active branch, but also to remove all buds until the formation is complete to create the very effect of mass abundant flowering. Flower practitioners, by the way, with the help of timely trimming, it is possible and restored patients with petunias, and to receive with a regular piece in the creation of even one - two copies with a bulk illusion of a whole group of plants.

Conclusion

If you are familiar with petunias, but still not "claimed an exclusive", allowing this plant to multiply by self-sowing, freely grow and choose a place and partners in the flower bed, try to look at it in a new way, connect a creative approach and caring Care and try to extract maximum decorativeness from each instance. Believe me, in the future you will never want to refuse to have this beauty on the site.

Petunia is an indispensable inhabitant of urban flower beds and garden sites. They please the eyes of the colors of all sorts of coloring and easy to grow. From the article you will learn how to care for petunias in the open soil and is it possible to grown on the home window sill.

Petunias are decorated with flower beds, balconies and loggias.

Petunia, she is Petunia (Petunia), came to us from the tropics of South America. This perennial plant is grown in the open ground as annual. Petunia pleases large bright colors until the first frosts, so it is used to decorate garden sites and balconies. It is grown in the open soil, kashpo and pots.

The semi-staple plant can reach a height of 1 meter, has a reprehension or sharpening stalks. Whole leaves oval form Locked once, pubes with hairs, like stems. On short bluers develop large white, purple, reddish, blue or purple flowers. They can be monophonic or with border, terry and simple.

Usually Petunias are grown from scratch by sowing seeds. However, it is possible to contain a plant in the winter months at home, and with warming to be taken to open air. How to grow petunia: Every year from scratch or as a perennial - to solve only you.

Varietal variety

Among the hybrid varieties of petunitions, multi-flowered, large-flowered, floribunda, gardening are distinguished.

• Multi-dealer petunia has been occurring a period of flowering. It blooms abundantly and long, the flower diameter reaches 6-9 cm. Such varieties are extremely unpretentious and ideal for our climatic conditions. Among the most popular - Mirage, Playmcreelas, Fantasy.
• Large-flowered petunition varieties have more than a hundred. Such plants bloom worse than multi-flowered, but the flowers are larger and more beautiful. They are different heights, have terry fringe flowers. However, more vulnerable - the wind or rain can easily damage them. Such petunias are more often grown in the balconies. From popular, you can select a picotics, a hit parade.
• Floribunda combines the beauty of large-flowered varieties and unpretentiousness of multi-flower petunias. The disadvantage is that spectacularly similar petunias look only with mass cultivation, so they decorate large flower beds. Sonya, Celabriti varieties are in demand.
• Petunia Garden is also called ampel or balcony. The plant has sharpening stems hanging down. This species is used to decorate balconies and loggias - garden petunias racks for weather conditions, grow rapidly. Often you can meet the grade of the bedding, and the Surfinia.

Growing petunias from seeds

With the onset of warm weather Petunia to seedlings you can buy in any flower stall or store. But they are usually grown on their own from seeds. You can already search for them in February, if you can organize additional backlight. If there is no such possibility, it is better to sow seeds in the second half of March.

Petunia seeds.

Sowing

Prepare loose and nutritious soil. The optimally suitable mixture of sheet or turf, overwhelmed, peat and sand in a 2: 2: 2: 2 ratio. Soil must be sifted, and per day before sowing to shed water. Seeds are mixed with sand and seed on the surface of the soil.

After that, the soil is spilled, sprayed with water, and the container is covered with film or glass. The container is contained at a temperature of 20-23 ° C. Shoot will appear in a week. They need 2 times a day spray and ventilated greenhouse. It is very important to regulate the humidity, because the seedlings can hit the rot "Black leg". As soon as the condensate drops appear on the film or glass, it should be removed and wipe.

Seedling

When the seedlings have a first sheet, the greenhouse can not be closed. And when their number will reach 3-4, the seedlings can be divened to separate cups, pre-moisturizing the soil before planting. Suitable peat soil. When transplanting a seedling, it is necessary to accurately extract from a common container, trying to keep the earth on the roots.

Young petunia saplings.

Seaming plants need to pour and constantly maintain the soil in a moistened state, loosen it. After a week, you will need feeding. They should be made once a week, alternating root and extractive fertilizers. Suitable Kemira, solver, nitroposka. Seedlings before landing in open soil you need to teach gradually to fresh air - to carry out pots in the afternoon. Blossom comes 2.5-3 months after sowing.

Landing in open ground

Looking out petunias in an open ground in the second half of May, when frosts are already behind. To do this, choose a cloudy day or evening, so that the adaptation has passed more successful. The plant is suitable for a loamy or sampling fertile soil. It can be fertilized by humus or compost.

The seedlings in the pots are watered, after which they carefully removed along with the ground and plant in the prepared wells at a distance of 30-40 cm apart. If the soil is acidic (pH less than 5.5), then lime add to it.

Care for petunias

Petunia plant is unpretentious, but for abundant flowering, you need to follow the rules of care.

Petunia can not be saturated.

Watering

Flowers normally transfer drought, but a long lack of water leads to a meager blossom. Large-flowered petunias require more frequent irrigation than small-beds. Watering is necessary under the root, avoiding water from entering the delicate flowers. The next day, the soil near Petunia is cleaned from weeds and loosen so that the crust is not formed.

Fertilizer

Lush flowering can only be achieved when making feeding. The first is brought in a week after planting seedlings. Then every 10 days feed the petrunity with a predominance of potassium. The plant speaks well to organic fertilizers - humic acids, infusion of cowboat. More satched shade Flowers can be achieved, feeding the petunia "aquarium floral". The tool is introduced into the soil once every 10 days, and 2 teaspoons of fertilizer fertilizers are taken to obtain a solution for 10 liters of water.

Wintering

Since Petunia is usually grown as annolete plantAfter flowering and first frosts, they dry themselves. But you can pick up the flower into the house and in the spring again fall into the open ground. To do this, the stems cut off the stems and plant a pot. After that, put in a cool room, watered scare and rarely.

In February, a pot with petunias takes to a bright and warm place, a regular watering resumes. When young sprouts appear and they are formed 3-4 sheets, they are cut and put on rooting. This can be done in water, but it is better immediately in the ground, covering the sprout with a transparent bottle or polyethylene - imitation of the greenhouse.

When shoots are growing the roots, they are seated with glasses, and in the spring - they return to open ground. Those who do not want to do all this, simply sow fresh petunia seeds collected after the end of flowering.

Flowering period

Petunia bloom in July and continue to delight bright colors to the first frosts. Large terry or simple flowers can be monophonic or with a border. Small-flowered varieties usually bloom at 70-75 days after sowing, large-flowered - 10-15 days later. Buds develop about a week, and it blooms every 5 days.

Petunia flowering period lasts several months.

Petunia flowers are vulnerable - they suffer from rain, wind, replete with excessive humidity. After the end of flowering in place of the inflorescence remains a seed box. If you plan to save the grade and next year to grow petunia, it must be trimmed to extract seeds. For longer flowering, it is necessary to immediately remove flowing flowers. On the development of the seed box, the plant spends a lot of strength, and flowering is reduced.

If the petunia does not bloom

Sometimes petunias do not bloom or pleases with several scanty flower. The lack of full-fledged flowering can be caused:

• Close pot. In small petunia containers are poorly developing.
• Lack of side shoots. If the plant is not branching enough, you can adjust the top. It stimulates the growth of side shoots and the development of additional buds.
• Lack of lighting.
• Disadvantage of feeding.
• Drill of the earth coma.
• Viral disease.

Fixing errors in care will provide a full bloom, if the plant is sick, it is better to isolate it as soon as possible from the rest.

Collection of seeds Petunia

Seeds are rapidly matured in the lower buds, so it's a climbing plant at once. When the desired buds are flashing (about 2 months), you need to cut the boxes with seeds. They can be stored in such a state, but it is better to shake the seeds of boxes, scatter by sachets, sign the variety and year of collection. Within 3 months, they will divert in bags and retain their germination for 4 years.

Problems in growing

Diseases affect petunia with systematic errors in care. With excess watering or lack of moisture, Petunia may turn yellow or dry. From diseases, the plant is striking gray rot, black leg, phytoofluorosis, chlorosis.

If the plant is affected by the virus, then it will not be able to cure it, so it is better to remove such a petunia from the site so as not to infect the other flowers. From pests for Petunia is terrible TRIPS, web tick, wave, slugs. Diagnose the presence of a certain pest or the disease can be in symptoms.

Defeating petunia pest.

Petunia fungal diseases

• Black leg is a frequent Petunia problem, occurs during an excessive watering, a thick planting of bushes, acidic soil. The lower part of the stem darkens, becomes a water, boils, the flower dies. The danger is the rapid spread of the pathogen through the soil and infection of neighboring plants. When the symptoms of petunia appears, it is necessary to make a solution of drugs containing metalaxyl, mankcybee or oxadixyl. Prepare it at the rate of 20-25 g per 10 liters of water.
• Gray rot is characterized by the appearance of light brown rash or spottedness on the leaves, which is then covered with a flush. The affected parts are withering, and then hesitated. The disease provokes a dense landing, low temperatures, excessive humidity, lack of light and stubble nitrogen fertilizers. The affected parts of the plant should be immediately removed, use chemicals Maxim and Sorrow, biopreparation integral. If the plant is strongly infected, it is simply destroyed.
• When leshed with white rot, gray mocking spots arise, which with high humidity are covered with a white bloom. The impetus to the occurrence is to increase the humidity and decrease in temperature. The mushroom easily spreads to the garden area, even through the clothes of the flower. The measure of the struggle is the limestriness and resistance of the soil, adding the drug "Triphodermin" to it (in the well - 2 grams). At the first signs of petunia infection, they are treated with a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Phytosporin", the soil around sprinkled ashes.
• Bright spottedness is accompanied by the appearance of rusty spots on the leaves. First they are round, then pull out. Pathogenic mushrooms are preserved on fallen leaves, the appearance provokes high humidity and mechanical damage to the plant. At first symptoms and as preventing petunias spray with copper-containing drugs once a week.
• In the development of phytoofluorosis, rains and boils the stem at the base. It provokes its high humidity and cold nights with plenty of dew. Money-containing drugs are used to fight, as well as mancoacer-based agents, oxadixila. They are suitable for both prevention and treatment at the first signs.

The best measure of combating any of the above-described diseases is the prevention of its appearance. It is impossible to plant a petunia too closely, and often watered, overly increase moisture.

Viral and bacterial diseases

If a viral disease occurs, the affected plant needs to be urgently removed from the site so that other instances are not infected. Fighting with the virus is useless.

Pest

The greatest danger of pests are presented during the cultivation of seedlings.

• The wave deforms young shoots and leaves, leads to a general fading of the plant. The larvae is noticeable to the unarmed look, a brilliant dew on the plant appears, an increased interest of ants to the colonies of Tlimi may be observed. Get rid of Tsi by spraying with one of the drugs: "Aktara", "confident", "Fufanon", "Decis".
• The whiteflink leads to the yellowed and fading of the leaves. The insect is caught with adhesive traps, and if the plant is strongly affected, the Aktara chemical preparations use, "confident".
• TRIPS hit the flowers and the upper side of the leaves - brilliant strokes or grooves appear, which are then merged into solid spots. On the affected areas, black small dots are visible - insect excrement. It is struggling only with the help of chemicals - "Aktara", "Intavir", "confident".
• Upon lesion by the spider tick, the leaves are brighten, small yellow points appear. Gradually, they dry, a web is noticeable on the leaves. To combat pests, drugs "Neon" or "Apollo" use drugs.
• Slug leave holes on the leaves. In the fight against them, the chemical preparation "cocid" 50 or "meta" is used, the superphosphate is scattered on the soil.

Petunia reproduction

Reproduction seeds are not always justified. For example, terry varieties with this method only 40-45% remain those. For this reason, ampel, terry and mini-petunias are breeding. To do this, the tops are cut from the mother plant so that the cuttings have 4-6 leaves.

Pulling Petunia.

Only 2 upper sheets leave on the cuttings, after which they are planted into the soil for petunias, pouring the 2-centimeter layer of sand or perlite from above. From above, the container is covered with glass, polyethylene or cut by a plastic bottle, creating a mini-greenhouse. Twice a day, the cuttings spray, follow the constant moderate moisture of the soil.

The rooting occurs within 1-2 weeks, and when the root length is 1.5-2 cm, the cuttings can be searched in pots with a diameter of 5 cm. In order for petunias branched, the tops are pouring over 4-5 leaves. The disconnected parts can also be rooted. After a month and a half, gracee petunias can be transplanted into pots with a diameter of 11 cm and care for adult plants.

Beautiful flowering petunia.

Seeds and seedlings of Petunia can be bought in flower shops or greenhouses. The cost of seedlings is about 80-100 rubles per piece. If you decide to buy already grown seedlings, carefully inspect them for the absence of diseases or pests.

Petunia will delight you for a long time with bright flowering while complying with the basic rules of care. In any case, they are quite simply grown out of seeds, so you should try to make friends with them.

Spring - Time when a full-time preparation for the summer flower season is being prepared. And many flower trees are once again thinking about what flowers to choose for landing. One of the most popular plant for breeding in garden or room conditions is petunia care and cultivation at home is not difficult, and the result will not make yourself wait long.

Plant history

Petunia or Petunia is a flower from the Polenic family, from the genus of semi-staple perennial plants. The shape of an adult plant bush, reaches a height from 15 to 70 cm. Straight stems, gustany. The leaves have green or dark green tone, oval shape, uniform, their length is 5-12 cm.

Flowers of the funnel shape, single, stubborn or final. Located on short bluers. The painting is the most diverse - from light pink to purple, from blue to purple and white shades. There are flowers with all sorts of decorative features: with halo, veins, border, stars.

Interesting! Recently, work is underway to withdraw the petunia of yellow and orange shades. For this purpose, roses genes are used for the production of yellow pigment.

In Nature, Petunia breeds seeds that are in a double box. They are very small 0.6x0.7 mm. In one fruit box, there are about 100 seeds. Petunia grows in South America (Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia).

The first on this flower drew attention to the naturalist Jean Baptiste Lamark in 1793. He discovered him in the vicinity of Montevideo to Uruguay and took it to the type of tobacco, calling Nicotiana Axilliaris. After 10 years, the French nerd Laurent de Anthano de Justice allocated a plant in his own kind, which called Petunia.

Enterprise! In the XIX century, only one kind of petunia with a wide range of P. Parviflora was known. In addition to South America, he met in Mexico, USA, India and Cuba. This species put the beginning of the genus of Calibaoa.

AT early XIX. A century in Europe was made the first attempt to derive a hybrid variety of petunia. The selection was made in the Glasgow Botanical Garden (Scotland). In 1834, the plant first bloomed, which was the beginning of the selection and garden breeding of Petunia around the world.

Amazing beauty, simplicity of agricultural engineering, adaptability to different soils and climate put petunia in the category of favorite plants of gardeners and flowerflowers. Today, new varieties, hybrids and groups of this beautiful plant are created.

Petunia is used to create flowerbed, borders, design of balconies, house facades, creating floristic compositions and breeding in apartments. New petunia varieties are perfectly leaving in vases, pots and pots.

Petunia photos

Petunia reproduction

At home, petunias multiply in two ways - seeds and cuttings. Many flowers independently grow seedlings of this flower, but people who do not have such an opportunity can purchase it in the markets and in garden centers. Adult petunia plant is unpretentious, which cannot be said about the seedlings. Her growing requires the flower of patience, care and knowledge of some nuances. Below are step-by-step actions, telling how to properly grow petunia at home and seeds and cuttings.

Seeds

It is necessary to correctly determine the dates of planting seeds. A short daylight may adversely affect young sprouts. The best time for sowing is the time after March 15. The exact date can be defined independently, given that Petunia blooms in 10-12 weeks after germination.

Preparation of soil and landing containers is a very important point. Capacities should not be deep. Cassettes, drawers or rectangular jars are fitted well. Prepared primer must be disappeared, pour boiling water or unstills to destroy potential pests and fungus.

Seeding seeds are made on moistage soil. It should not be covered with soil seeds. If the seeds are placed in granules, they should be sprayed with water from the spray to the best germination. Capacity with seeds are covered with glass or polyethylene to create a greenhouse effect. After that, the containers are put in a bright and very warm room.

You need to know! The more branches in young petunia, the more colors will be on an adult plant.

When the first sprouts appear on 3-4 days, the temperature is reduced to 18-20 degrees, tolerate containers with seedlings away from the battery. It is desirable to ventilating the greenhouse. You can start with 2 minutes, gradually increasing time. With the appearance of two or three real leaves, the seedlings are peeing into separate small pots.

After that, you can order plants. To do this, the temperature decreases by 10-15 degrees for a short time. Gradually, petunia will get used to the conditions of constant content with the street temperature of the air.

When the plant grows up to 4-5 pairs of real leaves, pinching. This measure forms the appearance of an adult plant. In May, adult petunia is planted into large pots, vases, balcony boxes and flower beds.

Cherenca

Another method of propagation of Petunia is shilling. In the summer, with lateral shoots of a blooming healthy plant cut a cutlery with a length of 7 to 9 cm, with 3-4 real leaves.

The billets are planted into separate indoor pots, moisturize the soil and covered with banks. They are put into light and maintain the ground in the moistened state. However, the formation of condensate and excessive soil moisturizing should be avoided.

The optimal temperature for rooting 22-23 degrees of heat. When Petunia gives the first leaflets, they come with them in the same way as with a sediment. Hardened, pinch and planted at a permanent place.

Cultivation of seedlings in peat pills

For novice flower growing, the cultivation of seedlings is better carried out in peat tablets. In this case, the seedlings do not need to dive or feed, the transplant to a permanent place occurs less painfully, the root system is not damaged.

To plant a petunia in tablets, seeds in the shell are used, since they are easier to spread the piece. Peat pills are placed in the container, pre-impregnate with water, then into a small recess at the top of each tablet are put one-sided petunia seed. The container is covered with glass to create a greenhouse.

Further actions are the same as with the usual seedliness - ventilation, hardening, feeding after transplantation, purchase and landing in the ground. Petunia grown in tablets land in the ground right in peat lump. Most of all this method is suitable for growing indoor petunia.

Care for petunias at home

Caring for adult petunias does not require special skills. Timely watering and feeding, right choice Places for landing are reduced to minimum flower work. However, it is necessary to remember some nuances in the difference in the care of garden and potted cultures. To date, methods of care and cultivation of petunia at home and how indoor plant And as a garden.

The soil

Petunia is well caring in fertile sublinous or soup soil. For seedlings perfectly fit a mixture from the ground, humid and sand. Before falling into the ground, areas with acidic soil should be treated with lime.

Potted varieties require more nutrient soil. It is better to cook from a mixture by a humid, leaf land, peat and sand. Permissible will be adding slowly soluble mineral fertilizers in the soil mixture. And before planting a plant, a layer of drainage layer to 5 cm is placed on the bottom of the tank.

On a note! The volume of the soil on one plant is 5 liters. So, in pots by 10 liters, it is necessary to plant two plants in the pot, and in a box up to 1 meter long, no more than three.

Temperature and light

The air temperature in the room where Petunia seedlings are grown, should be no less than 18-20 degrees. After disembarking in the soil, the optimal temperature for an adult plant will be 14-16 degrees of heat. Outdoor petunia sit on light, open areas with an abundance of the sun.

With insufficient lighting and cold weather, it ceases to bloom. In the apartment or house the pot with Petunia is set to the southern and southwestern windows or loggias. If the plant began to draw out, increase the lighting and reduce the temperature of several degrees.

Watering

The plant is drought-resistant. Well tolerates abundant watering, but reacts poorly to stagnation. Waterproofing is needed under the root, so as not to damage the delicate flowers and leaves. With a long lack of moisture, petunia can stop flowering.

Podkord

The first few weeks of Petunia do not need feeding. You can spray shoots with a weak solution of manganese. It will save seedlings from infecting pests and diseases.

After the transplantation into the ground, universal feeders, aimed at forming a strong root, can be used. Petunia, growing on the flower beds and in the gardens, need powerful fertilizers. After all, they are vulnerable to weather conditions and an external environment.

To create a strong plant, feeding is carried out by making humate potassium, urea or potassium. Later, integrated additives and fertilizers use for intensive growth and flowering. Feelable plants in the open soil need no more than 1 time per week.

Particular attention in terms of feeding should be given to potted cultures. Due to the constrained conditions, the substrate in the tanks is rapidly depleted and becomes unsuitable. The frequency of making fertilizers for petunias in pots and kashpo is not less than 1-2 times a week.

Important! If the petunia does not bloom for a long time, create a "stressful" situation. Stop feeding and twist with a minimum. After that, the petunia bushes begin to bloom abundantly.

Pipping Petunia

Potted petunias need regular shortening of young shoots. For the first time the searchable is produced for seedlings when the appearance of the plant is formed. In the spring, the pinching becomes mandatory for the overwhelming plant. Further flower treatment is carried out as needed.

Life expectancy Plant

Petunia is considered a perennial plant. Nevertheless, in gardening use grades of annuals. From the moment of sowing and to the first shoots, it takes from 5 to 7 days. The first real sheet appears on 14-16 days. At the age of 28 days, the plant reaches stage 4-6 of these sheets and is ready to transplant. After another 30 days, Petunia gives the first buds.

Bouton development occurs for a week, bloom lasts about 5 days. With faithful petunia caring, it blooms from June to the first frosts. If the plant was grown as annual, then the booster bushes are removed from the soil completely.

But if you plan to save the flower for the next year, it must be trimmed and transplanted into the container of the corresponding volume. In winter, watering such a petunia lies in the wetting of the earthen coma as necessary. With sufficient lighting of Petunia, it can be broken second.

Petunia in winter is experiencing resting period. From the middle of the autumn, until the end of winter, the pot with petunias is transferred to a cool light room and reduce watering to a minimum. Early spring plant is transferred to a warm place, renew the ground, carry out feeding and restore the usual watering.

Diseases and pests

Petunia is unpretentious and rarely affected by pests and diseases in high-quality care. But any color should know with what problems it may encounter when the content of this plant.

Petunia fungal diseases:

• "blackleg";
• gray rot;
• white rot;
• wet rot;
• brown spotlight;
• phytoofluorosis.

If the stalks of the plants are covered with black, gray or white spots, moat, fade and get, then, most likely, it is hit by fungus. The reason for this is increased humidity, high temperature, lack of light or tight sowing.

Increased soil acid and the oversaturation of nitrogen fertilizers also negatively affect plants health. Avoiding trouble will help, first of all, prevention.

It is not necessary to circulate sowing, use the ground from the garden or a greenhouse without prior treatment by steam, do not be cured with nitric fertilizers and regularly remove the affected parts of the plant.

Important! Petunia is afraid of rain. Flower petals with abundant shower can be very damaged, which will give them a sloppy view. In the protracted rainy weather, flowering petunia, may stop at all.

Petunia bacterial and viral diseases:

1. Leaf galls.
2. Cucumber mosaic virus.
3. Tobacco mosaic virus.
4. Y and x potato viruses;
5. Tomato Aspermia Virus.
6. Tobacco necrosis virus.

These diseases are rare, but are capable of rapidly spread from the plant to the plant or transmitted through seeds. With damage to the petunia viruses or bacteria, the appearance of the flower changes. Spots protrude on the leaves, their shape and appearance change. The flowering of the plant sharply decreases or stops, the flowers become small and spotted. Treatment is to immediately destroy the patient plant.

Pesters Petunia:

• bellenka;
• triples;
• cellic ticks;
• slug.

It is vulnerable to pests to pests. Signs of disease are the fading and yellowing of the leaves, the presence of pests on the stems and leaves of pests. The struggle is made with the help of various chemicals.

Varieties and types of petunias

According to the latest flower estimates, the number of petunia varieties has more than five hundred copies. In this manifold, it is easy to lose even a knowledgeable person. To describe all the varieties and types of this flower, note the advantages and disadvantages do not have enough one article. Therefore, we note the highlights. All petunias are divided by the form of a flower shape and its color.

Cascading petunia Used to create compositions on balconies, loggias and arbors. This species releases numerous long shoots that grow up in different directions. The series is represented a variety of shades And suitable for a moderately continental climate. The most popular varieties of Ramblin, Typhoon and Rose.

You need to know! Calibaho and Petunia were considered the same flower until 1990, until it was proven that they have a different chromosome set. In the garden centers, the Calibao varieties are sold under the names of "Ampel Petunia" or "Surfinia". Be careful! Caring for these plants varies.

Ampel Petunia Plant in pots, porridge, boxes and containers. They decorate gazebos, trees, suspended vases. The peculiarity of this type in long shoots, descending only downward, thanks to which beautiful floral waterfalls are formed. Also ampels can be planted on the Alpine hills or shores of artificial reservoirs. The best varieties of "Surfinia", "Waist of Good luck", "Pearl surf", "Waterfall".

Bush petunia Well tolerate care and cultivation at home. This species is characterized by compactness of the shape, a variety of color shades and decorative patterns. Forming an arbitrary form and depends on the frequency of pieces of shoots.

Bush petunias is equally growing in the apartment and in the country area, on the balcony and flower bed. The popularity of the subgroups: "Milliflora", "Multiflora", "Grandiflora". A varieties that deserve attention - "Grandiflower Triumph", the series "Fantasy", "Storm", "Parade".

In conclusion, it is worth noting the brand new varieties of Petunia, recently derived.

1. Picobel Picobel Petunia is a cold-resistant, semi-permeable plant, blooms with plenty of small colors.
2. Petunia Limbo is interesting for the new tint of Burgundy. Series Duwa and Ivy distinguishes strength and increased cold resistance.

Interesting! In 1921, an asteroid was opened at number 968, which was assigned the name "Petunia".

Petunia is a magnificent plant, easy to leaving and growing in the apartment, in the country and garden. It will cope with her both an experienced professional and a novice amateur flower. It is able for a long time to delight with its bright colors, bring practical benefits and deliver aesthetic pleasure.

Petunia is the most common plant, both in the household plots and on the balconies. Abundant bloom begins in early May and pleases with its beauty to the first serious frosts.

Petunia flowers, landing and care for them is considered to be an easy class, since plants are not whims. But for successful cultivation, it is necessary to know certain rules:

• the plant loves sunlight;
• prefers sampling or loamy soil;
• does not tolerate long stagnation of liquid;
• requires constant feeding (1 time in 12 - 15 days).

Petunia seed landing at seedlings

Landing petunia seeds, for early flowering, you should begin in the middle of February. The prerequisite for cultivation of seedlings is the presence of need quantity Sveta. If in the room where the petunia is planned for this component is not enough, it is advisable to use special lamps.

Blooming the plant begins 65 - 92 days after seeding. It depends on the variety of petunia. The larger the flowers of the plant, the more time it is required for its blooming.

Before planting Petunia seeds, prepare:

• tanks for landing with drainage holes;
• soil;
• ceramzit;
• sprayer with water;
• purpose material (it is desirable to use nonwoven material, for example, spunbond, allowing the plant to breathe);
• selected seeds.

At the first stage, prepare the seedlings containers:

• at the bottom of the cup, with the drainage holes prepared by the drainage holes, begging a layer of clay with a height of approximately 1 cm;
• i spread and slightly tamper the soil mixture. To the edge of the container, it is necessary to leave a distance of 3 - 3.5 cm.
• soil moisturize.

Getting to landing Petunia. Since the seeds of the plant are small enough, then when boarding, you can use a mixture of seeds with sand. This will allow the most evenly to place the seeds in the pot. You can use the Diazed Seeds of Petunia, but their cost is much larger than that of the usual. Pour petunia seeds with soil is not recommended. Best of all slightly press them until complete contact with the soil.

After planting the petunia, the boxes should be covered with underfloor material. Instead of matter, you can use glass or polyethylene. In this case, the plants will have to be forcibly ventilated.

Under favorable conditions (ambient temperature, 24ºС and humidity 98%) seeds germinate for 7 to 9 days.

There is a simpler, but more costly method of obtaining plant seedlings - planting petunia in peat pills. For this:

• acquired peat tablets poured warm water and wait for her swelling and cooling;
• pinzest places petunia seeds into the central hole;
• moderately watered.

In the pots or in the ground, the plants are picked together with tablets. Damage to the root system is completely excluded. For novice flower flows such a growing method flower seedlings most preferred.

Landing ampeline petunia is made by the same ways as the bush.

Growing seedlings Petunia

When the seeds are good and the first leaflets will appear with the box, it is necessary to remove. Plants carefully pour and reduce the surrounding temperature to 18ºС.

At the first stage of Petunia develops very slowly. It is initially strengthened by the root system of plants and only after that the stems and leaves are stronger. It lasts this stage about 4 - 5 weeks.

During this period, you must follow:

• soil humidity. It should not be dry or overwhelmed.
• timely making fertilizers. For petunia, complex fertilizers or preparations with an increased potassium content are suitable.
• sufficient lighting. In the daytime, the lamp should work at full power, and at night it is advisable to muffle the light, but do not turn off completely.

For the development of strong and abundant blooming plants after the appearance of several leaves, the top of the flower must be seen. Fixed plants transplanted into separate, more spacious containers and continue to care for the seedl of all the above rules.

A month before landing Petunia in the ground, the plants are hardened within 10 days. In the first half of the period, the daily temperature near the seedlings should be 18ºС - 20ºС, and the night is 16ºС. In the next five days, these indicators are reduced by 2 ° C - 3ºС. After this procedure, the strengthened flowers are the least painfully postpone the pickup into an open ground.

Video: How to plant Peutania seedlings

Petunia landing in soil

Let us turn to the question how to put petunias for a permanent place:

• planting the plant is best in cloudy weather or after sunset;
• pricing a sighter is preferably along with a lump of land from a pot;
• a saplings should be at least 10 cm in depth and width;
• the distance between the landings depends on the variety of the flower. For large-flowered petunitions, it is necessary to withstand 23 cm - 25 cm. For small-bedrooms, it is enough 18 cm - 20 cm. Ampelnaya's bushes are imprisoned at a distance of 28 cm - 30 cm;
• after transplanting flowers watered;
• for better rooting of petunia, the land around the transplanted plant can be covered with a humor or peat. Such a shelter for a longer time to maintain moisture and protect the flower from possible freezers.

Care for petunias is to irrigation of plants, timely and constant feeding, removing faded colors.

Watering the plant only in dry weather. It is advisable to conduct this procedure after sunset. With watering, water should not be stated. It is enough just to moisten the earth around the root system of the flower.

The first feeder is carried out 9-11 days after the transplantation of plants per permanent place. Start feeding plants best with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. You can use nitroammophos.

For abundant flowering, during the formation of buds, it is preferable to use fertilizers containing a large amount of phosphorus and potassium, such as superphosphate and potash salt.

Petunia can be fed wood ash. This fertilizer contains all the components necessary for the plant. Moreover, you can use both the acquired fertilizer and made yourself, after the fire or from the stove.

An important component for proper feet of plants is iron. In the absence of sufficient amount of iron, Petunia can get chlorose. The first signs of the disease are manifested on the leaves: they begin to turn yellow and fall. Ferness will come to the rescue, which spray plants 3 - 5 times with an interval between spraying 2 - 3 days.

Faded flowers should be removed from the plant. This leads to the formation of new buds and long-term flowering duration. Please delight petunia flowers, landing and care for which is properly produced, will be even more if you form a beautiful crown of the plant in time. For this, young shoots seeking high growth, pinch. The procedure is considered correct if the parting is carried out after 4 - 5 leaves. After the operation, the plant produces abundant multidirectional shoots that are necessary for the formation of a beautiful "cap".

Proper landing and care for petunias lead to long and rich flowering. Landing petunia seeds on video will help beginner gardeners more closely to get acquainted with the procedure.

Video: Sowing and Piking Petunia

glav-dacha.ru.

Landing Petunia on seedlings: care features, general information about the plant

Petunia is a beautiful bright flower with a pleasant smell that can be found in any city and suburb of our country. Gardeners simply adore petunitions for their beauty and unpretentiousness. This spectacular flower is ideal for both windowsill and balconies and open spacious flower. Landing Petunia on the seedlings is quite simple, they begin to bloom fast.

Petunia is as annual and perennial. This is the plant of the Polenic family, which makes it a distant relative of tomato, potatoes and tobacco. The word "Petun" translated from Portuguese means "tobacco". Petunia can reach a height of up to 1 m depending on the variety

Motherland Petunia is hot South America, which makes this plant so thermo-loving.

I discovered this flower and described in my works the famous botanist Jean-Baptiste Lamarck. Most of the varieties were discovered in Brazil, where they grew along the banks of the rivers. Some species were open more recently, at the end of the 20th century.

Petunia Description:

• Petunia flowers are usually single, bright, with five petals, can be different colors: white, red, pink, purple, yellow, blue.
• Seeds small.
• With a careful inspection, you may notice that the stems and leaves of petunias are covered with hairs.

Petunia flowers for a very long time. If you plan her in time, it will delight you with its bright colors in early June and there will not cease to bloom until the first cold. There are many legends about this flower. According to one of them, the beautiful princess sharpened in the Dark Castle of the Dragon. She had to entertain him, sing and dance, but she herself was very sad in the castle. She loved to draw, but she had no paints or canvas.

Once she went to the balcony and sank. Birds flew to her singing. Princess was delighted and asked them to bring her various herbs, flowers and roots so that she could make paints from them. When the paints were ready, it was necessary to find a canvas. The princess decided to draw on the walls that surrounded it. Gloomy stones quickly began to turn into an incredible beauty of the picture. When not a single empty place left, the walls were collapsed, and the princess was released, and on the site of the ruins remained a carpet of beautiful bright colors - petunition.

To grow seedlings, you need to stock up with additional sources of light. Then it will be possible to plant seeds at the end of winter. However, the optimal time for landing is considered the second half of March.

There are several requests for landing seeds of Petunia, performing which you will ensure yourself a beautiful magnificent seedlings:

1. Early spring light day is still short, the poet is not all seeds. For this reason, it is necessary to pour more seeds.
2. The soil for planting should be an easy, enriched with a humor, peat, well explosion and moistened. Moisten the soil you need the day before landing.
3. Seeds are put on the ground, pre-mixing them with a small amount of dry sand. After that, carefully align, but not tampering.
4. When the seeds are already planted, the soil must be moistened with the help of a flap and cover with a film or glass. The temperature should not be too high, slightly more than 20 degrees.
5. While the seedlings did not appear the first leaflets, do not remove the glass.
6. Humidity should be high enough, but it is impossible to allow excessive dampness so that the plant does not start. Therefore, if you see droplets of condensate on glass or film, turn it over and wipe it thoroughly.
7. The first shoots should be neatly sprayed, periodically replacing water to a weak solution of manganese.
8. After you saw the first leaflets on seedlings, boldly remove the glass. Now you need to sprinkle them with a small amount of sand and cut watering.

When leaves are already several, you can deal with seedlings. This is done simply. The soil must be pre-moistened to make it easier to pull out the plant. It is necessary to pull the sprout neatly, behind the sheet, without shaking the soil from the root system. Then just put the plant in a separate pot with the same mixture as when landing seeds.

Transplanted petunia also needs to be covered with a film for several days.

Watering should be regular, providing moderate humidity. A week later, you can begin to feed the plant with various fertilizers. You can buy them in specialized stores. The feeding must go once a week.

Powder's care is simple and will not require special skill. However, some rules still need to be observed that the flower bed pleased the eyes. As mentioned above, Petunia loves warmth. Therefore, it is important to maintain the necessary temperature regime, especially when growing seedlings. But this does not mean that the pot with a seadade needs to be set near the scorching battery. Soil should not save. Dry peel on the ground can adversely affect seedlings, they just suffocate.

It is necessary to plant petunia to open soil after all frosts have passed and there is no threat to their return.

The scorching sun is also not suitable for landing. If cloudy days are not expected, choose for this procedure the second half of the day, when the sun is not already bright.

Despite the love of warmth, the strong drought of petunia is carried out badly. For the same reason, plants need to be regularly water. It is done very carefully not to damage fragile flowers. The larger the flower grade, the more demanding on the conditions of the content.

Flower feeding:

• In fertilizers that you feed petunia must be enough potassium. This is important for correctly growth and flowering plants.
• And you need to feed it weekly until the very end of summer.
• Fresh manure can not be added to the soil, as it can cause fungus.
• Very good various organic fertilizers like humilous.

The plot to which you sit down the petunia should be open to the sun. Therefore, make sure there are no high trees, fences and most of the day flower bed will be covered.

If you want your petunia to bloom until November, plan her already blooming.

Faded flowers cut off. It will make the plant stronger, and the flowerbed is more beautiful. If you notice that the stems and the leaves began to darken, treat petunia with a special solution from rot. It can be purchased in the store for gardening.

Especially dangerous for Petunia, since in this case the plant dies quite quickly. Seeds can be assembled after two months since the beginning of flowering. Choose large, healthy flowers that bloom before the rest.

Petunia has many species, subspecies and groups. Consider the most basic varieties:

• Bush petunia. Bush petunia has the greatest number of species. These are rather large, bright flowers that require special care. However, despite the beauty of the flower, he has its drawbacks. These include a small amount of buds, their fragility. Rain and wind can easily damage such a flowerbed.
• Throwing petunias. This petunia is distinguished by the fact that on its long flexible stems there is a large number of buds, for this reason the stem does not stretch up, and it is stele. Such flowers are good for balconies and flower, where there is enough horizontal space. The most flexible stem belongs to the variety called Surfinia. It also has many species, but all of them combines resistance to unfavorable environmental conditions.
• Multi-detective petunias. It is clear from the name that such petunia has many small flowers. They look not as impressive as large, but more lively in conditions of strong wind and rain. This petunias blooms long and unpretentious in care. Small, densely planted flowers will resemble a multicolored bright carpet.
• Dwarcia petunia. Dwarf petunia is characterized by small growth, below 30 cm. This compact flower is perfect for small flower. He loves light and moisture, but when excessive dampness quickly boots. Caring for it should be especially thorough.
• Terry petunia. This beautiful lush flower is difficult not to notice. To flower beds look beautiful, the flowers need to be planted too close to each other. One of the new grades of terry petunia is Angora, a lush flower with small leaves. He is unpretentious, long blooms and is able to survive even a strong wind. Sonata-resistantly resistant variety has light pink flowers and has thick foliage.
• Cascading petunia. This kind of petunia is perfect for suspended porridges and boxes. Special love of gardeners earned a variety of dance cascade with beautiful two-color buds and a gentle aroma.

Whatever the grade you prefer, Petunia will become a great decoration for the garden, and will enjoy all the lovers of flowers. Not too time-consuming care and variety of varieties will create the most interesting and beautiful compositions.

More information can be found from the video.

Megaogorod.com.

Petunia - Care from A to Z

Petunia flower, care for which does not occupy a lot of time and effort, has recently acquired special popularity. Basically, thanks to compositions from a variety of garden flowers, adorning apartments, offices, cafes. The central place takes them in them Petunia, perfectly combined with other colors (begonia, geranium, labelia). You can often see suspended compositions that are composed of some petunias, but of various varieties. This is amazing beauty! Landing, growing and care for petunias is a completely simple case, even a novice flower.

Landing

This flower is planted in an open soil (or container, pot) seedlings usually in the 2nd half of the month of May. Seeds of Petunia (care for them and the preparation of them for landing is obligatory) in the 2nd half of the month of March they are sown to seedlings. Petunia blooms, which is planted in this way, approximately by mid-June. And the flowering lasts until October. This method is very good if you want to decorate a balcony, as well as for compiling the composition. For cottage plot It is not necessary to grow seedlings, you can sow seeds directly into open soil (in the last decade of May). With good weather, the seeds will take place immediately and go into growth rather rapidly. By the end of June it will be possible to observe a blooming petunia. You can even breed these flowers with cuttings, then it needs to be done at the end of summer. But this procedure is a bit more complicated than the previous ones.

Petunia - soil care

Petunia - a very light flower. Therefore, it is necessary to take an open place in the garden plot. Under the conditions of cultivation, ordinary petunia is similar to cloves. It is the same unpretentious to the soil. But if possible, it is better to land a petunia on the non-seal soil, well-drained, not driving. When planting it in a container or a pot of the soil must differ slightly. It is better if it is a moisture-intensive, well-driving air, loose, very nutritious. Good drainage is required. The following composition of the soil for Petunia is recommended: the delicate land is two parts, a leaf land - two parts, peat - one piece, sand - one part. To give greater looseness, you can add perlite.

Petunia - care

When caring for petunias, it is important to remember that large-flowered varieties are more capricious than small-beds. They require much more heat and light, do not completely tolerate the slightest cool dampness. The main danger that seesing the petunia on the open ground is a strong wind and rain. It is they who can apply tangible harm to the flower. And this can provoke a complete cessation of his flowering. The advantages of the potted cultivation of these colors are that the pot can always hide from bad weather.

For the formation of beautiful bushes of the top of the petunition at the stage of seedlings, it is necessary to quit at the level of the 5th intersdium (approximately). In adult plants, long shoots are cut, it also contributes to the good branching of Petunia. The seamless flowers must be deleted, it contributes to the formation of complete new buds.

Feeding and watering flower petunia

Caring for this flower is so simple - even a breakdown and the convergence is not terrible to him. Only the latter does not mean abundant watering with petunias with water and the appearance of dampness! For petunia, this is a death sentence. Do not forget about frequent spraying. Petunia is loved. In hot weather it is desirable to water them twice a day (minimum). With good moisture permeability of the soil and the same drainage of stagnation of water and the overalling is almost excluded. In order not to damage the flowers, it is better to water the root.

Petunia is perfectly bypass without fertilizers, but to maintain lush and long flowering, it is still necessary to feed it. A common mineral fertilizer is suitable for this. It is necessary to make it under the usual scheme - 2 times a month.

fB.ru.

Petunia: landing and care, types and varieties, photos.

Rod has about 25 species, the birthplace is South America.

Petunia is a perennial semi-stabbed or herbate plantused in garden culture as annual. Stems are peeling or reprehension, gustany. The foliage is located in contrary or in the next order, soft.

Stems and leaves of Petunia are published by ferrous and simple hairs. Purple, reddish, white, single, stuffed or final, single, terry or simple, correct or slightly wrong. Fruit - box with small seeds.

Seeds in petunia small, dark brown. Fruit - box, conical shape, yellow brown. As a rule, petunia seeds are sold individually in packages.

The terry forms, seeds cannot be tied up, because the terrain of petunia is determined by the transformation of the planting of the plant in the petals. At the same time, the stamens are developed normally, they are greater than in a simple flower.

Petunia's terrace is transmitted in pollution of non-none pollen of terry plants. Petunia is a cross-peer plant, so pestles ripen before the stamens. But in some cases, self-pollination is possible.

Petunia buds are developing 7 days, each petunia flower is open 5 days. Seeds ripen 1 month after pollination. Seeds retain the germination for several years.

In the culture, the petunias are gardening - hybrids, initial for whom Petunia staples and purple.

Location Petunia

The plant is a light-chapter and thermal-loving. Perfect grows in open places. Large thermal-loving, than small-bedal petunias, in crude weather plants cease to bloom.

Soil for petunia

He loves sandy or drum soil, can grow on fertile. Petunia perfectly responds to compost or humus in the soil.

The plant drought resistant, but with a debt, the disadvantages of moisture needed watering. Transfers strong soil moisturizing, but suffers from stagnation. The large-scale forms are demanding of heat, power conditions and moisture than small-bedroom forms.

Fucking is the main condition for lush long flowering petunia, so the feeding should be done regularly, starting one week after landing and before the beginning of September with an interval of 10 days.

Magnificent petunia blossoms provide comprehensive fertilizers, with elevated potassium. Excellent result give feeding organic fertilizers. Permanent feeding will last before the completion of flowering.

Carefully need to care for petunias that landed in the tanks: containers, balcony boxes, cachep. The soil is needed for them is nutritious, consisting of peat, humid, sheet and turf, sand.

Peeping seedlings in containers are very tight. Surfinia and ampeline petunias are planted in hanging baskets, high vases and balcony boxes. To achieve lush growth and long flowering in these plants, they must often watered, feed once a week. If growth and magnificent bloom is inhibited due to bad weather conditions, excellent results give the processing of growth stimulant (zircon and "epin-extra").

Huge harm to petunia deliver rains. With a strong rain, the water droplets tear the petals. Petunia flowers become ugly, and the plant itself is sloppy. With long-term Rain Petunia can completely lose decorativeness and even stop blossoming.

So try to rain baskets with petunias to move under the shelter. Flowering petunia should be watered carefully, under the very root, trying not to damage beautiful flowers.

Ampeline petunias suffer greatly from the winds, so baskets with them need to be placed in the place protected from rain and winds.

In terry and large-flowered forms of petunia, the appearance can spoil the blurred flowers. They are practically not noticeable in large arrays, however, they are visible in Kashpo and small flower beds. To improve decorativeness, faded flowers are removed.

Petunia breeding

Typically seeds. In room conditions, the cultivation of seedlings of Petunia is complicated by a lack of light, so it is necessary to take seeds with a margin for sowing. The earlier sowing seeds, the sooner the plants will bloom. If you have the opportunity to give the seedlings to give backlight, then you can sow in February.

In simple conditions, it is optimally sowing at the end of March. The second complexity is the soil in which the seeds will be placed and maintaining optimal humidity. For petunia seeds need loose and nutritious soil. The top layer is desirable to sift the top layer in order for the seeds evenly for the soil.

Next spray, closed with glass and leave at 23 ° C. On the 7th day, shoots will appear that need special attention. When seedlings are growing, and the first sheet will appear, it will be possible to remove the glass. At the permanent place to plant petunias after the end of frosts.

Small-flowered petunia blooms for 70 days after sowing, large-flowered varieties of petunia bloom 15 days later. Petunia varieties with terry flowers with seed reproduction give 40% of terry plants, so they are most often breeding with cuttings, which in winter contain in greenhouses at 12 ° C.

In Russia, in the middle lane, Petunia is planted in May. The plant is very thermalized, modern petunia varieties are transferred to cooling, and even short-term freezing. The flowering seedlings of Petunia can be planted into the vases, on the flower beds, on the balcony in early May.

It is best to plant seedlings in the evening or on cloudy days, in advance, looking good water pots with plants. Distance between petunias depends on the variety. For a multi-flower petunia, the distance between the plants should be 15 cm for large-flowered 20 cm, and for ampel 30 cm. After planting seedlings, it is poured, and the soil is mounted with a humus or peat or.

Use of Petunia in Landscape Design

Good adaptability of petunias to different cultivation conditions, climate and soils, brightness and flowering duration made a plant with one of the favorite crops of gardeners. Today, Petunia ranks first among the annuals, and with the advent of all new hybrids interest in it becomes more and more.

Petunia's popularity has caused the fact that the great efforts of genetics and breeders are aimed at creating new varieties, petunition hybrids.

From petunias make curbs, ramks and flowerbeds, plant on the balconies. Terry hybrids and varieties are better to plant on protected places: on balconies, balconies, open verandahs, in containers. Fast-growing ampel petunias can close empty places in flowerbed.

Petunia partners

All petunias are beautiful by themselves, and with some plants. In carpeted landings, petunia is planted near the begonia, different decorative cultures: cineraria, cake. At the flower beds, they look good next to Verbena, Lion Zev, Vitychants, Ageratum, Rudbequee.

Petunia looks very beautiful next to primoses, pansies, and with bulbous plants - hyacinths, tulips, ripples. Near the reservoir and in the shade of Petunia will create an excellent company of hosts, decorative cereals and Lilyiks.

In petunia vases are combined with fuchsia, lobular, chlorophytum, fragrant peas, balsamine. In suspended baskets, petunia can be planted with ampellable plants, for example, such as ivy, Zelenchuk, Verbena, PLUCHIOS-LUBRONE.

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Petunia or petunia, Latin - Petunia from FR. Petun - tobacco.

The genus of grassy or semi-student perennial plants of the Parenic family (SOLANACEAE), height from 10 cm to 1 meter. Comes from the tropical regions of South America, mainly Brazil, in vivo growing in Paraguay, Bolivia, Argentina and Uruguay. One kind of Petunia Parviflora is found in North America.

Perennial herbaceous or semi-stabbed plants used in culture as annual. Stems are a reprehension or sharpening, gustany. The leaves are in the next order or opposite (upper), soft, solid. Stems and leaves are published with simple and glazed hairs. Flowers are white, purple or reddish, single, finite or stool, on short bluers, simple or terry, correct or slightly incorrect. The fruit is a double box with very small seeds.

Petunia © Swami Stream

Care

Lighting: Petunia of light-cup and thermal lodge. Good grows in open sunny places. Large petunias are more heat-loving than small-beds, in crude cold weather cease to bloom.

Watering:

• In winter - preferably moderate,
• In the summer - abundant.

The soil: Prefers drum or sampling soil, but can grow on any, quite fertile. It speaks well to putting in the soil humoring or compost, but not fresh manure, as it contributes to the damage to plants with mushroom diseases. When preparing soil under petution on areas with acid soils (pH less than 5.5), it is necessary to make lime. In the spring resistance of the soil, a comprehensive fertilizer is added to it.

Podkord:

• spring-summer - 1 time in 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers;
• winter autumn - without feeding.

Cutting: Abundant raised plants on half in the spring you shoulded.

Petunia © Swami Stream

Growing

Drought resistant, however, with a long lack of moisture requires irrigation. It takes a strong moisturizing soil, but suffers from water stagnation. Large-color forms are more demanding to heat, moisture and power conditions than small-beds. The feeders are the basic condition of abundant and long-term flowering of petunia, so planting plants regularly, starting a week after disembarkation and up to August with an interval of 7-10 days. Abundant petunia flowering provides complete complex fertilizers, especially with the predominance of potassium. A very good result gives feeding with organic fertilizers, including the infusion of a cowboy, as well as humic fertilizers. Regular feeding continues until the end of flowering.

More carefully needed to care for Petunia plants planted in small capacity: containers, porridge, balcony boxes, especially in hanging baskets. The soil for them should be prepared nutritious, consisting of humus, peat, delicate or leaf land and sand. The percentage of these components can be different; The main thing is that the mixture is loose and at the same time moisture. To optimize its parameters in the mixture, it is desirable to add perlite and hydrogel. Lime add to the mixture with increased acidity. In addition, slowly soluble complex mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil mixture for small containers. When filled with a mixture of boxes and containers to the bottom, it is necessary to pour drainage (gravel, ceramzite, etc.) by a layer of at least 5 cm.

Petunia seedlings in porridge and containers are quite dense - about 70 plants per 1 m². Surfinia and other ampel groups (i.e. hanging, sharpening) petunias, as well as caliber, as a rule, cultivate in suspended baskets, balcony boxes and high vases. In order to achieve lush growth and abundant blossoms from these plants, they must often watered and spray with water (in hot dry time - 2-3 times a day), to feed no less often once a week, alternating feeding under the root with non-cornered (spraying on the leaves). If growth and flowering is inhibited due to adverse weather conditions, good results give the processing of growth stimulants ("epin-extra" or "zircon").

The greatest harm for decorative species Petunia pose rains. With strong summer rains, water drops tear down gentle petals, making flowers with ugly, and plants - sloppy. With protracted long rains, the plants can completely lose decorativeness and stop blossoming. Therefore, before the rain of Caspo and baskets with petunias, it is advisable to be transferred under the shelter. Watering flowering petunias also need carefully, under the root, trying not to damage the flowers.

Ampeline petunias and caliberoa can suffer greatly from the wind, so baskets and vases with them should be placed in winds protected from wind.

Many varieties of Petunia, especially in large-flowered and terry forms, can spoil faded flowers. They are almost not noticeable in large arrays, but there are clearly visible in vases, kashpo and on small flowerbah Near the tracks. To improve the decorative landings such flowers are removed.

Petunia

Reproduction

Mostly seeds. At home, the cultivation of Petunia seedlings is complicated by a lack of light, so it is necessary to take seeds with a large margin. The earlier having to sink seeds, the earlier the plants will bloom. If you can give the seedlings to the backlight, then you can sow in February. Under normal conditions, it is optimally sowing in the second half of March. Another complexity associated with the size of seeds is the soil in which they will be placed and maintaining its optimal humidity. For such seeds, a loose lightweight and nutritious land is needed. The top layer with a thickness of about 1 cm It is advisable to sift the seeds evenly on the soil. Seeds mixed with dry sand are poured on a well spilled water per day before sowing the soil. Then spray, covered with glass and leave at a temperature of 20 - 23 ° C. For 5 to 7 days, tiny shoots will appear, which require special attention. Now they need to spray daily and at least two times a day (in the morning and in the evening) turn over to the light. At this point, high humidity is needed, but excess moisture in the soil causes their death from the "black leg". When shootings are growing and the first sheet will appear, the glass can be removed. If shoots begin to die, they need to be powder with dry sand, to reduce watering and quickly sip. In April, seedlings are transferred to the greenhouses. Landing in the ground for a permanent place is made after the end of spring frosts. Transplantation Plant Power well.

Flowering varieties of small-bedal petunia comes to 70-75 days after sowing, large-flowered varieties bloom 10-15 days later. A varieties with terry flowers in reproduction by seeds are given only 40-50% of terry plants, so they are often breeding with cuttings, sliced \u200b\u200bwith saintmen, which contain in winter in light greenhouses at a temperature of 10-12 ° C, with moderate humidity and intensive ventilation. After the cutting of the cutlets transplanted 9 cm of pots.

In the open ground petunia in the middle lane, Russia is planted in the second half of May. Despite the fact that this culture is very thermal-loving, modern varieties and hybrids (especially from the multifloro group) can carry the cooling to low positive temperatures and even small short-term freezers. In large cities flowering seedlings Petunia can be planted on the flower beds, in the vasons and on the balconies in late April - early May.

It is better to plant seedlings on cloudy days or in the evening, pre-hard watering the water pot with plants. The distance between the plants depends on the variety and type of landing. For multi-flying petunias in flower plantings, it is 15-20 cm, for large-flowered - 20-25 cm, for ampel - 25-30 cm. In balcony boxes, containers, vases The distance between plants can be reduced by one and a half times. After planting seedlings, it is watered (if the soil is not wet enough), and the ground around the plants is mounted peat or humus. Mulching allows the soil longer to preserve moisture and protects plants during return freezers.

Petunia © Santarosa.

Using

The unique adaptability of the petunia to various conditions of cultivation, soils and climate, the simpleness of the agrican turbines, the duration and brightness of flowering made it one of the favorite cultures of flower and climbers. Currently, Petunia occupies one of the first places in popularity among the annals, and with the advent of new groups and hybrids interest in it all increases. Her cultivation is huge - from the tropics to the Polaria and Alaska, its landing can be found on all continents, except for Antarctica.

Such popularity of Petunia became a consequence and the reason for the fact that the significant efforts of genetics, botany and breeders of all over the world are aimed at creating all new varieties, hybrids and garden groups of petunition. Each of these groups is attractive in its own way and occupies a certain place in landscaping.

Traditionally, flowers make flowers, ramks and borders, planted on the balconies. Modern hybrids thanks to a powerful root system are well growing in a limited volume vessels (containers, cachep, hanging baskets and vases). Terry grades And the hybrids are better to plant in places protected from wind and heavy rain: on balconies, open verandahs, loggias, in containers and at home. Fast-growing ampeline petunition hybrids allow you to close empty places in the mixturore or after cleaning the bulk.

Petunia © Powi.

Partners

All petunia varieties are beautiful both by themselves and in combination with other plants. In carpet landings, they are planted next to the begonia of unwell, lobularity, various decorative animal crops: Koleus, Cineric, Syrovine, and others. At the flower beds, they look beautiful next to most of the seals, such as Verbena, Lion Zev, Gelicurizum Bract, Velhets, Kindergaths, Ageratums, Rudbecia, Levko and others suitable in color and height for this variety.

In the late spring - the beginning of the summer Petunia look very impressive next to the pansies, primoses, as well as with bulbies - tulips, hyacinths, with ripples, and later - with iris and lilies. Near the reservoir and on the shadow area, they will make an excellent company with hosts, Lilyikam, Tracdania Virgin and decorative cereals.

In the vases and containers of Petunia and Calibao, they will be combined with the pelargonium of zonal, fuchsia, lobullaria, a hyelichry of patchiora, chlorophyteum, balsamine, fragrant peas. In the suspended baskets and window boxes, they can be planted with ampel plants, such as Lobelia, Ivy, Zelenchuk, Plusheval, Verbena, Pelargonium, Plushevitis, etc.

Diseases and pests

Blackleg

Pathogens: Toward mushrooms from labor Olpidium, Pythium, RhizoCtonict, mainly Pythium Debaryanum Hesse and RhizoCtonia Solani Kuhn.

Symptoms: The roasting part of the stem becomes water, darkens and boots. The plant runs and dies. Mycelium Mushroom quickly spreads through the substrate expanding, often smooth circles, hitting all new seedlings. Mushrooms are striking seedlings, starting from the first days of life. The disease is exceptional: in some cases, if you do not take any preventive and therapeutic measures, you can lose all seedlings.

: Too thick crops, high humidity of soil and air, high temperature (above 20 ° C), high soil acidity.

Preservation of pathogens (disease ability): In the soil and on plant residues.

Measures of struggle: The main attention should be paid to prevention: do not thicken sow, do not use too heavy or sour substrate (the optimal level of soil acidity for PHN 5.5-7), watering moderately, avoid an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, delete sick seedlings with a part of their surrounding substrate. When preparing a substrate for seedlings, it is unwanted to use the ground from the garden or from the greenhouse, but if there is no other land, it is necessary to disappear, and then make biological products containing soil antagonist microorganisms competing with diseases of diseases (Agat-25 K, Phyto Sporin, Triphodermin and others). In preventive purposes, it is possible to pour soil with sulfur preparations (sulfur colloid, cumulus, "Tiovit Jet" - 40 g / 10 liters of water).

When the "black leg" appears, it is necessary to spray plants and pour the soil with a suspension of drugs containing mankotheb, metalaxyl or oxadixyl (Ridomil MC, Profit, Ridomil Gold MC et al. - 20-25 g / 10 liters of water).

Gray Gnil

Pathogen: Imperfect Mushroom Bothrytis Cinerea Pers .. Amazing many agricultural crops.

Symptoms: On the leaves, stems and flowers, light brown spots or rashes appear, which are then covered with a gray fluffy mushroom spout. The affected parts of the plant are first told, and then puments, turning into a brownish mass with a gray bloom. Sometimes the fungus begins to develop in interstice, which leads to the elimination of the part of the plant located above the place of the defeat. If the defeat is strong, the plant may die. The mushroom strikes petunia in any phase - from the seedy leaves until the seed ripening.

Conditions contributing to the spread of the disease: Too thick crops and landings, high humidity, low temperature (below 14 ° C), excess nitrogen fertilizers, lack of light. The mushroom usually amazes the tissue of the plant through the wounds, in the flower it is capable of penetrating through the pestle.

Preservation of pathogen: In the soil and on plant residues. Mushroom can winter wooden structures Greenhouses.

Measures of struggle: Preventive - Excessive sowing and landing, excessive irrigation, too low temperatures should be avoided. The development of the disease is suspended when high temperatures Air (25-27 ° C) and with a decrease in its humidity up to 80% and lower. It is necessary to regularly remove the affected parts of the plant and plant residues that serve as an additional source of infection, as well as increase the proportion of phosphoric and potash fertilizers in feeding.

From the means of protection available to amateur flowers, it is possible to mention the biological preparation of the integral (25 ml / 1 l of water), the chemical preparations of the speed (2 ml / 10 l of water) and maxim (2 ml / 1 l of water). However, all these drugs are ineffective with the strong development of the disease.

White Rot

Pathogen: Summer Mushroom Whetzelinia Sclerotiorum (Lib.) D BY. .

Symptoms: The appearance of mocking brown spots, in the humid conditions covered with a white bloom of mycelium, affected fabric soften and whiten. A white mushroom is formed on the surface and inside the stem, on which black sclerosions are formed soon - the organs of the mushroom reproduction. During the maturation of the sclerocytes, drops of liquid are formed, strongly refracting light. The shoots located above the affected part die away. Mushroom can damage all parts of the plant.

Conditions contributing to the spread of the disease: reduced temperature and increased humidity. Additionally contribute to this disease with acidic soils, overlooked dense landings and untimely removal of affected parts of plants. Plants are infected through mechanical damage to fabrics, but the mushroom can penetrate inside and through the dust, so it easily spreads over the flower bed on the hands and clothing of a person when leaving the plants.

Preservation of pathogen: in the soil and on plant residues in the form of sclerocytes that do not lose viability up to three years. Can be preserved and mushrooms.

Measures of struggle: Deep Pumping and Loving Soil, Compliance with Proper Agrotechnics, Timely Removal of Affected Plant Parts. Non-good results makes introduction to the wells when planting a biological preparation of trip-carriermin (2 g per well). When the first signs of the disease, biological treatment is necessary (integral - 5 ml / 1l water, phytoosporin-m - 4-5 g / 1 l of water) or chemical (maxim - 2 ml / 1 l of water) drugs.

In especially valuable copies, with the initial infection, it is necessary to clean the affected areas, and then sprinkle them with a lime-bent or charcoal. The soil around the plants is desirable to sprinkle with ash or crowded charcoal. These events constrain the development of the disease, but do not replace the processing with chemical or biopreparations.

MOKPA GNIL.

Pathogen: RhizoCtonia Solani Kuhn.

Symptoms: In the phase of the seedlist leaves, the disease develops according to the type "Black leg" (see above). From the picking stage before the end of the vegetation, the pathogen causes the root neck, the leaves are drooped and wrinkled, acquiring gray-green color with a lead tint. Oil light brown spots appear on the root neck, covered by the brown felt of mycelium mushroom. In the future, minor black sclerosions appear on mycelium. Sick plants lag behind in growth, yellow and fade. Mushroom is able to affect the plant at any age.

Conditions contributing to the spread of the disease: Too deep landing, as well as acidic and overwhelmed soils. The pathogen is not demanding on the environmental conditions and can develop in the temperature range of 3-25 ° C, with soil moisture, 40-100% and the acidity of pH 4.5-8.

Preservation of pathogen: in the form of sclerocytes and mycelium in the soil (at a depth of 80 cm) to 5-6 years. All this time he is capable of infection.

Measures of struggle: Preventive - high agricultural engineering and timely removal of patient plants; Bacterial (integral - 5 ml / 1l of water, phytoosporin-m - 4-5 g / 1 l of water) and mushroom (tripides - 2 g of the drug in the well when planting seedlings) preparations. Suspensions of biological preparations water seedlings and spray the sink seeds. In this case, a capsule from useful microorganisms is formed around the roots.

With the appearance of the disease, it is necessary to spray with chemicals (MC, Profit, Ridomil Gold MC - 20-25 g / 10 liters of water).

Buuray spotty

Pathogen: PhylLosticta Petuniae Sp.

Symptoms: On the leaves, rust-brown spots appear, first rounded, then obliged with concentric zones. The fruiting mushroom is formed on the light part of the spots. The affected leaves fade and dry out.

Conditions contributing to the spread of the disease: Mechanical damage, high air humidity.

Preservation of pathogen: on fallen leaves.

Measures of struggle: Preventive - High Agrotechnology. In order to prevent the disease, as well as the appearance of the disease, it is possible to spray with copper-containing drugs with an interval of 7-10 days (car-tocid - 50 g / 10 liters of water, copper chlorine - 40 g / 10 liters of water, oxicha - 20 g / 10 liters water, etc.).

Phytoophluorosis

Pathogens: Phytophthora Cryptogea Pethybr. a. LAFF. and phytophthora infestans de vagu.

Symptoms: The base of the stem will boil and boots. The plant fades and subsequently dies. The defeat is possible at any age, however, more often the disease coincides in terms of the phytoofluorosis of tomatoes and potatoes, which is associated with the peculiarities of the biology of pathogens.

Conditions contributing to the spread of the disease: High air humidity, cold nights with abundant dews.

Preservation of pathogen: In the living raising parts of plants - carriers of the disease (for example, patients of potatoes lined in the garden). There are convincing evidence that infection in the soil and on plant residues is not preserved.

Measures of struggle: During the cultivation of seedlings, it is necessary to ventilate a greenhouse well and do not thicken sowing. After disembarking seedlings in the ground, you can conduct warning machining with copper-containing drugs (potatocide - 50 g / 10 liters of water, copper chlorine - 40 g / 10 liters of water, oxych - 20 g / 10 liters of water, etc.), but at the same time flowers are often damaged What leads to loss of decorativeness for several days. Miscellaneous, metalaxil or oxadixila (Ridomil MC, Profit, Ridomil Gold MC and others - 20-25 g / 10 liters of water) are significantly softer.

In addition, they possess not only protective, but also therapeutic effects, so they are allowed to be applied in the period when signs of the disease have already appeared.

Petunia © Daryl Mitchell

The unique adaptability of the petunia to various conditions of cultivation, soils and climate, the simpleness of the agrican turbines, the duration and brightness of flowering made it one of the favorite cultures of flower and climbers. Currently, Petunia occupies one of the first places in popularity among the annals, and with the advent of new groups and hybrids, interest in it increases everything. We are waiting for your advice!

botanichka.ru.

Petunia - landing and care, photos and secrets of cultivation.

Hello dear readers! Whoever wanted to see your home, yard or balcony blossoming bright, merry palettes all summer. But this is possible, easy and accessible, thanks to Petunia. Here in this article "Petunia - landing and care, photos and secrets of cultivation" I want to reveal the secrets of cultivation and care, issue a formula of rich petunia flowering, and show photos of beautiful varieties.

How and when to sow petunia on seedlings?

Let's start with when seeding seeds to seedlings? Personally, I prefer to sow petunia in March, better in the second half. At this time, the day was already significantly added, and I don't even use the lamp to highlight the seedlings, but in the case when my frost stands on the southern windowsill.

It is very important when sowing seeds to use snow. They can be covered with just seed seeds, or sung right on the snow in the tank. This procedure is needed for seed stratification.

The temperature in the room is approximately + 17-19 GRS, seeds sowing into prepared cassettes or cups with a soil, not sprinkling, but only moisturizing the soil with seeds. Then covering glass, (if there is no glass you can use a transparent film). This will serve a mini greenhouse for seedlings.

Shoots appear after 8-10 days. From time to time I carry out and watering from the sprayer. But not in any cases, do not pour, but moisturize so that the earth is wet, and not too wet. Otherwise, shoots will be sick "black leg" and perished.

But if you want to get a flowering plant much earlier, for example, in April then you need to sow petunia seeds in February. In this case, it is necessary to take advantage of the fluorescent lamp, and do not forget about the temperature that should be at a germination of at least 15-22 degrees-s.

After the seedlings fix and make the first couple of real leaves, you can dive them into separate small containers (cups).

I propose to see a useful video on the topic "How to reconstruct the seedlings."

Petunia landing.

Although petunia is unpretentious to soils, it is better to use a light, fertile soil with the addition of humus, sand and leaf land.

I plant my seedlings of petunia in a row (cut-out asbestos tube) after May 10, when the threat of return freezers passes. Sometimes it happens that I plant much earlier, in late April or early May (the benefit of the climate allows). But in this case, I follow the weather forecast, and if that it comes, we simply cover the seedlings with glass jars.

Growing petunia.

Mostly growing valuable varieties through seedlings, such as terry, ampel, and large-flowered. And in the garden and behind the yard, this beauty breeds the self-sowed, despite the fact that there are so many shoots that you have to pour out so that it does not score other plants.

Since Petunia is light-sounding, she needs to highlight an open sunny place, although it is unpretentious to the ground, but it is better to prepare fertile, sugal or thin soil. We also remember that this plant loves and needs moisture, so watering should be deep and timely, so that the plant soil is always moderately humid. And it is necessary to water the root.

But in pots, the cultivation of petunia is a little more difficult. The main thing is to be loose nutritious, moisture-intensive soil. You can add perlite to it, and I still prefer a little hydrogel, as perlite breaks down the soil, and the hydrogel delays moisture. And in pots or containers in air moisture is quickly spent. It is also important to fertilize the petunia with a complex mineral fertilizer for blooming during flowering once every 10 days.

At the initial stage of growth, we form a bushes by the production method, this means that at the level of 3-5 interstices in the center we remove the central escape. And in the future they pinch the side shoots, so the bush will turn out a lush beautiful form.

Secrets of rich flowering petunia.

To achieve enchanting petunia flowering for a long period is quite simple, the main thing is to know its preference. 1. Since the root system in Petunia is quite powerful, there should be quite a lot to mean and soil. It is not recommended that only 2 plants are no longer recommended in the container.

2. It is known that Petunia is a great fitness, so the first feeding should be carried out 2 weeks after the dive. While the plant is in "childhood" she needs nitrogen fertilizers for growth. And when buds begin to be laid - phosphorus and potassium.

3. Petunia often suffers from iron deficiency, yellowed leaves appear from this. In this case, it is necessary to feed the plant in the chelat of iron. It will be enough to be 3-4 feeding with an interval in 5 days, and it is necessary to alternate root feeding with extractive.

4. Adult Petunia plants love watering very much, and it is desirable to prevent the soil of soil.

5. Faded flowers must be removed, and it will provoke a new blossom wave. And the elongated stalks pinch to get a chic flowering bush.

6. In order for Petunia to show itself in all its glory inherent in this variety, it is necessary to feed the seedlings with a solution of the EM substitution at a dose of 1 tablespoon on 10 liters of water.

And lastly, I propose to see a photo of a selection, how and where you can use petunia in the garden design.

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Petunia is a perennial plant related to the Polenic family. The height of the plant varies from ten and to one hundred centimeters. The birthplace of the flower is South America, but the main habitat is Brazil. Flower for the most part loves a warm, moderate climate, although there is one species that grows in rather complex conditions of North America. Today in the world there are about forty species of these plants.

Most of them starting from the 18th century are grown as balcony and garden decorative plants. Mostly petunias ampelnaya grown in pots. Due to large and sufficiently bright colors that have a variety of coloring, the plant has become very popular among the many gardeners around the world.

The popularity of this plant is so high that an asteroid was named in his honor, which was opened in 1921.

Types, varieties and hybrids

All varieties that are cultivated today are hybrids. Purely derived or previously growing grade will fail to find. This is due to the fact that the initially flower is used to a certain climate and in its natural form, the cultivation is extremely complex.

The first options for hybrids appeared in about the middle of the 19th century. Before a large number of varieties and species appeared, only two varieties were used to create them, which were broken between themselves and between those varieties that were obtained during crossing. Two source varieties:

• krasno-Phiolet I.

Today it is customary to allocate four main groups of colors:

• large-color types with flowers up to ten centimeters in diameter. Among the best varieties It is worth highlighting "Hit Parad F1", "Limbo F1". They are distinguished by rapid growth and beautiful flowers;

• multi-color with smaller colors from three and up to five centimeters in diameter. Basically, this petunia is grown in the garden. Popular varieties of "P-Multiflora Nana Pleno", "Merlin F1";

• dwarf or short types with the height of the plant itself to thirty centimeters. The best hybrids "P. Duo Mixed "and" P. MERLIN F1 ";

• petunia ampels - in this group there are cascade, as well as popular grades of Surfinia. Among the best varieties are to highlight "Pirouette F1", "Pendula" and "Avalanche F1".

Features of cultivation

Petunia grows perfectly both at the cottage and at home. However, at home these colors need to create special conditions, for example, they love a lot of space, not close pots and a lot of light. All these conditions are best created when petunias are grown in the country.

When the weather is dry and cool on the street, the plant ceases to bloom, and sometimes can die. In such cases, it is necessary to feed potassium-based fertilizers. In general, such a feeding will never prevent the plant, especially when it comes to transplant. Another point in the cultivation is that the bushes of this plant can be formed as you want. They can be grown in flower beds, suspended pots.

In any case, the most important is correct care Behind the flower, as well as the right choice of place for planting a flower. The place must necessarily be light, without winds. In the case of indoor dilution, Petunia needs to ensure permanent light. For this you can use daylight lamps or special LED fixtures.

How to transplant

If you decide to transplant the flower, you need to do it in the cool time of the day, that is, it should be evening or cloudy weather, it doesn't matter if you do it in the garden or at home in the pretty.

Before disembarking, it is necessary to hide abundantly so that you do not parse the roots. The transfer of seedlings should be done very carefully, since the part of the root with an earth can be snewed, violating the root system. After the resetting process, do not forget about repeated watering.

The soil, which is around Petunia, is to fertilize with a humor or peat, just pouring it away with a small layer on top to Earth.

In order for the flower to give joy with its luxurious and long flowering, it is necessary to make pinching for petunia. Simply put, you need to remove extra processes that take all the useful substances on your height, not giving flowers to grow fully. Talking takes about 2-3 times a month when blooming and once a few months when flowering does not occur.

Soil, pots and fertilizers

This plant in large quantities consumes mineral fertilizers. In principle, you are unlikely to reconstruct it in fertilizer, but it is necessary to know that the feeding should be based on potassium. Also added peat and humus, but you need to be careful with them so as not to burn the root system. Fertilizer is made no more than two times a month.

Pots can be used completely any, it does not matter, it will be clay or plastic.

The form also does not matter, the main thing is that he has enough space. In addition, it is necessary to provide a drainage system so that the water is not stored in the root system, otherwise the root simply rotates.

Soil is also important. The soil must be necessarily loose, moisture, should be good to pass the air and mandatory feederness is also necessary. You can advise the following soil composition:

• cherry Earth - 2 parts
• sheet Earth - 2 parts
• peat - 1 part
• sand - 1 part

For greater looseness, you can still add and perlite.

Diseases and pests

In general, if you carefully care for the plant, then no diseases will stick to the plant, so competent care is extremely important.

Too thick sowing, also excess moisture, is quite heavy soil, can lead to fungal diseases. Most often, this is the so-called black leg.

Recognizing this disease, it is necessary to quickly remove the patient part of the flower, and to remove the ground next to it. Other stems treat fungicides.

Another common disease is mildew, it appears due to sudden drops of moisture and temperature. It is sufficient enough, the stems must be treated with gray.

Patient Petunia, can cause infection of neighboring plants to avoid this to constantly monitor the flower and pay more attention to him.

1. Watering - you should not fill a lot of flower, he does not like this, but also rare watering can lead to diseases, especially during flowering.
2. Light - the more light, the better the growth occurs. Straight sunlight are not very terrible for her.
3. Mineral additives - if you started an active bait, then you can not stop it, as Petunia quickly disappears, without having an additional source for feeding.

Various photos of flower