Frankly, I don't like chemistry and only use it in exceptional cases. My element is non-chemical agents. At one time she borrowed many of them from friends, and then improved them in her own practice. And there is where to improve, 18 acres of land. There is a garden and a vegetable garden. I always keep records, you can't live without it. Here are some tips from my notebook:
"Against leaf-eating (winter moth, hawthorn), you need to take 100 g of mustard powder in a bucket of hot water, leave for two days, strain, add water in a 1: 1 ratio, and then spray the plants. I have another way. I take 3 kg of ash on a bucket of water, I insist for two days, filter, dilute with water in a 1: 1 ratio, and then process the plants.
I destroy the raspberry-strawberry weevil and the raspberry beetle in this way. Take 200 g of garlic, grind and insist in 10 liters of water, strain and spray the plants with this solution several times (after 7-10 days).
Against cruciferous flea: boil 1 kg of ash with a little water, leave for 24 hours, add up to 10 liters of water, strain, add 50 g of soap and spray with radishes, turnips and other crops.
Against cabbage whites (caterpillars), you can use potato tops, leaves and stepchildren of tomatoes, physalis (chop 1-1.5 kg, insist in water for two days, strain, dilute to 10 liters, add 50 g of soap and spray the plants after 7-10 days). This solution can be used against aphids, strawberry mites, hawthorns.
Against crimson stem gall midge: cut and burn diseased shoots, and then spray the plants with a solution: insist 3 kg of ash in water for two days, add up to 10 liters of water, strain and add 3 g of potassium permanganate. Spray after flowering raspberries.
Against aphids: fresh alder leaves, 2 kg per bucket of water, leave for 24 hours, boil for 30 minutes, strain and spray the plants. The same solution can be used against moles by pouring it into holes.
Against the moth: pour a glass of apple cider vinegar into a three-liter jar (metal can be used), add water, hang it under the apple tree (at a height of 2 meters). Change the solution once a week. Against the moth: apply trapping belts, they can be greased with special glue - 20 g vegetable oil, 100 g of resin and 10 g of grease, mix the components, warm up and apply to paper, wrap tree trunks. Such belts can also be glued against the flower beetle (before flowering).
To combat many pests, you can use infusions:
- 100 g of garlic, 200 g of freshly cut onions and their husks, insist in 10 liters of hot water and process tree trunks, crowns;
- Divide 2-3 bulbs into 3-4 parts and hang them on tree trunks to scare away. It is recommended to tie the tree trunks with celandine greens;
- pour half a bucket of raw wormwood herb with water, boil for 10-15 minutes, strain, cool and dilute in 10 liters of water, add 40 g of soap and spray the plants after 6-7 days several times against the caterpillars of the codling moth.
Against apple sucker: chop 250 g of roots and 400 g of fresh dandelion leaves and pour 10 liters of hot water, leave for 24 hours, strain and spray the plants 3 times: when buds open, after flowering and repeat after 2 weeks. You can also use an infusion of mustard, onion (husk) and garlic (pour 0.5 kg in a bucket of hot water, insist, strain and spray after 5-6 days).
Pour 1/3 of a bucket of chopped burdock leaves (burdock) with hot water, leave for 3 days, strain and spray the plants 3-4 times at intervals of 6-7 days against many leaf-eating pests.
Against black currant and gooseberry anthracnose: insist 1:10 mullein solution, strain and spray. This spraying also helps against powdery mildew before bud break (April).
Against the bear: spread heaps of fresh manure (horse) over the site, collect the pest in the morning and destroy. You can grease a glass jar with a small neck at the neck with honey and bury it in the ground, when the pest crawls into it, collect and destroy. Bears cannot stand the smell of calendula, fresh alder branches stuck in the ground. It is good to plant calendula on the site, it also scares off the Colorado potato beetle.
Soda ash 50 g or 100 g of drinking + 40 g of soap in a bucket of water - against powdery mildew and gray rot on grapes, strawberries, plums. Also a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. Against onion and carrot flies: sprinkle with ash, tobacco dust, and slaked lime between the rows.
Against powdery mildew of gooseberries, currants, scab on an apple tree and a pear: spray in the fall after harvest and in the spring before bud break with a solution of urea (500 g per bucket of water), as well as a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, and in the spring, before budding, pour over the bushes hot water.
Against the flower beetle (before flowering): mustard solution + ash and potassium permanganate, spray after 6-7 days. During the flowering period, spread a film around the trees and shake off pests in the morning, destroy.
Against gray rot of strawberries: spray with mullein solution 1: 1 (before flowering). Before the appearance of peduncles, spray the plants with a pink solution of potassium permanganate (1 teaspoon per bucket of water), repeat after tying the berries (2 teaspoons per bucket of water), or with an ash-and-soap solution (boil 1 kg of ash in 1 liter of water and then dilute to 10 liters , insist for a day and add 40 drops of iodine).
Against strawberry mites: pour hot water over plants (52-54 °). It is possible to plant tomatoes at a distance of 80-90 cm between rows of strawberries - they scare away pests.
Slugs. Place dishes with beer or kvass at ground level in row spacing. During the night, the pest, drinking the solution, swells; it is collected and destroyed. You can spread wet rags overnight, burdock leaves, rhubarb, boards where slugs accumulate. Collect them and destroy them.
Against many pests, you can use the following infusion: chop 4 kg of stepsons and tomato leaves in a bucket of water, leave for 4 hours, boil for 30 minutes, cool and pour into a bowl, store the solution for a long time. Before use, dilute 2 times, add 40 g of soap and spray the plants.
After flowering fruit trees and berry crops, against the honeydew, moth butterflies, moths, it is good to fumigate the garden with tobacco smoke: near the trees, in good, calm weather, in the evening they lay heaps of straw or garbage, pour 2-3 kg of tobacco dust on top and set it on fire.
It is also possible to use fumigation of trees and bushes with smoke from the combustion of waste of woolen fabrics, rubber products (galoshes, etc.) before flowering (May - June) before flowering (May - June), using a smoker.
Currant bud mite - in April, compact the ground under currant and gooseberry bushes and cover with a film, roofing felt, tar paper, add soil and clean up after flowering and the formation of ovaries. Inside the bushes, branches of red and black elderberry can be laid out, the affected buds can be collected and destroyed.
The wireworm prefers acidic soils, so the first remedy is to sprinkle with ashes and lime. It is useful to treat the site with potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water), water the soil before planting potatoes, and also add ash.
Against mice: cover tree trunks with dry stalks of cilantro, peppermint, black root, burdock leaves. Sprinkle mustard around the house, shed in autumn.
Gallic aphid on red and white currants: harvesting and burning affected leaves.
Collect the yarrow at the beginning of flowering, insist 200 g of dry branches in a bucket of water, add 40 g of soap, strain and spray the plants against aphids, sucker, spider mites, caterpillars.
Against the scale insect: 150-200 g of chopped garlic, 40 g of soap in a bucket of water, rinse the leaves after 7-10 days.
Against the defeat of the roots of radishes, carrots, onions - sprinkle tobacco dust mixed with lime, sand with naphthalene along the rows, add ash.
Spider mite: 100 g of garlic, 40 g of soap. Spray every other week, 4-5 times per season, you can also use an infusion of orange peels with soap.
Infusion of needles (coniferous concentrate) + wormwood, pharmacy chamomile with the addition of soap - against all pests of the garden and vegetable garden. To process: before flowering, during the period of bud swelling, when the ovary appears.
The greenhouse whitefly affects all green plants (small pest, white wings). In the greenhouse, a few days before planting, remove all green plants and wait 2-3 days (the whitefly will die). Draw 20x20 cm squares with yellow paint on the walls of the greenhouse. After drying, cover them with petroleum jelly or grease. The pest flies to squares, sticks and dies. You can use fumigation of the greenhouse with tobacco dust smoke. Or make a so-called trap from cardboard, coat it with linseed oil, wrap the plants with this trap, shake it several times, the whitefly will fly up and stick.
It is also good to combine the cultivation of plants that repel pests: plant basil, celery, garlic with cabbage crops - they repel the cabbage scoop. Calendula - many pests. Onion aromatic herbs, garlic, parsnip - weevil, carrot fly, mites, wireworm. Skoroda onions - aphids, fleas. Common tansy - many pests; plant between bushes. Coriander (cilantro) - seeds and dried stems scare away mice, wood lice. Beans, peas, beans - moles, wireworms. Marigolds (tagetes) clear the soil of nematodes. Chrysanthemum leaves and stems buried in the ground scare away the bear.
Row beds vegetable crops can be planted with onions.
The main thing is to constantly monitor the garden, the vegetable garden, and each garden bed. "
.!
New ideas for a garden and a garden with your own hands are always held in high esteem. Almost every land owner who wants to improve his land spends a lot of time looking for suitable options for improvement. Some summer residents do not think about how to make their site more beautiful, they spend more time and effort to achieve a rich harvest, using every piece of available space. Others, on the contrary, do not think about getting vegetables and fruits from their land, believing that it can only bring benefits in aesthetic terms, allowing themselves to relax and rest in contemplation of the arranged beauty. There may be a third option, involving a beautiful arrangement of flower beds and beds, introducing spectacular touches into the decoration of a garden or vegetable garden.
Garden decoration
It doesn't take much to decorate your site. It is enough to have good imagination and inexpensive materials. There are some win-win decor options, among which are:
- decoration of the facade of the house;
- installation of statues on the site;
- creation of a small reservoir;
- use of stones;
- creation of a wattle fence.
As for the house, most often the owners of the plots do not pay due attention to such an element of the country setting, which is completely unjustified. A beautiful home decoration catches the eye much faster than a garden or vegetable garden decoration. There are many decoration options. Budget ideas are hanging flower pots under windows, painting shutters and walls, pulling the mesh onto the wall and sowing its base climbing plants ... High-quality facade decoration is considered more expensive.
Dacha is a place of rest, but not a permanent residence, so there is no need to spend money on expensive construction Materials to decorate it, just a little trim and a couple of colorful touches. Statues are an excellent decorative element. In this case, 2 financially different options are possible. If funds permit, expensive marble statues or other materials can be purchased. A more suitable and affordable option is to independently create statues from scrap materials. Models made of wood are popular among country sculptures. Various saw cuts, hemp and other pieces of wood can be used. The aesthetics of garden elements directly depends on the imagination and experience of the creator. Naturally, a lot depends on his professionalism, so you should practice a little before creating your masterpiece.
A small pond will help to decorate the garden. You can create it by breaking into a metal or plastic barrel, an old bathroom, or just any container into the ground. You can simply place this container on the ground without deepening it. Filling it with water, decorating the banks with stones or ornamental plantsdecorating the surface of the water aquatic plants, you can achieve the creation of a cute reservoir in the garden, whose arrangement will be close to natural. Homemade pond care has several features. It is necessary to constantly change the water in it, in order to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor and mold. In addition, in hot sunny weather, you will need to periodically top up the water to the required level.
With the help of stones, you can achieve the completeness of the landscape design of a summer house or garden, making it more accurate and original. You can lay out a path of small cobblestones, make a stone edging of beds or flower beds, create a rose garden or alpine slide with their help. Large stones spread over the site also look attractive. Only this should not be a chaotic pile-up, you need to know when to stop in everything.
Another rather popular way to decorate a land plot is to create and install a wattle fence. It will look most justified if the design of the rest of the space is made in a rustic style.
The wattle can be used as an edging of beds or flower beds, as a partition for different areas of the site.
How to use flowers for decoration?
In addition to various items, colorful decorative flowers can be used in decorating a garden or vegetable garden. It does not hurt to equip a beautiful flower bed, choosing the right varieties of plants and their range, or an alpine slide, which, with the right arrangement, can become a key element of the site design, drawing all eyes to itself. You can create something of your own, unique and inimitable. If the owner of the site has no idea how to plant the plants in an original way, and hiring a landscape designer is not affordable, you can use a couple ready-made ideas application of flowers in garden decoration.
Creating a flower stream is a non-standard and interesting way to arrange a flower bed. It looks like a jug, bowl or some other container from which a flower carpet "flows". The creation of such a landscape element requires a minimum of costs, you just need to purchase a suitable container. And these costs can be avoided if a suitable item is stored in the barn.
For planting, it is recommended to use seedlings, not seeds. This is due to the unpredictability of seed behavior. Some may not rise at all, some of them may be taken away by insects. The choice lies with the gardener himself, but for confidence it is better to use ready-made seedlings, whose behavior will not bring unpleasant surprises. The process of creating a stream itself is as follows:
- 1 Prepare the soil, loosen the soil that will be used for planting.
- 2 Remove weeds, level thoroughly, water abundantly.
- 3 Designate planting sites, plant seedlings.
- 4 Water the plantings abundantly
Plants for arranging a flower stream are used in a variety of ways. Low annuals will be an excellent solution in the manufacture of such a flower bed. The variety of varieties that can be used for this purpose is enormous. Perennials, as well as bulbous flowers, among which there may be daffodils, glamines, cyclamens, primroses, pansies, daisies are also suitable for planting. Ground cover flowers:, carpet phlox, brunner, buttercup anemone (anemone), fragrant violet, cinquefoil - perfect solution for such a flower bed. The choice of a ground cover plant depends on the conditions in which the flower bed will be located. When choosing such a type of plants for arranging a stream, it must be remembered that due to the peculiarities of their growth, it will be necessary to periodically trim its limits, removing flowers that have escaped from the total mass. Otherwise, caring for such a flower bed is no different from caring for an ordinary flower garden.
Second life to old things
In addition to using various tricks with flowers and landscape elements, you can use ordinary things that have been gathering dust in the barn for a long time or prepared for disposal in the decor of the garden and vegetable garden. Useful in design:
- plastic and glass bottles;
- clay and plastic flower pots;
- shoes and clothes that have become unusable;
- old garden tools;
- birdhouses and bird feeders;
- remnants of building materials;
- faulty equipment, cars, bicycles.
Any old and unnecessary trash can be played with skillful hands so that it becomes the main attraction suburban area, which you can later be proud of in front of the guests. But it is important not to overdo it with details, as using lots of, albeit great, details can make the garden look tacky and cluttered.
Landowners can make the dacha not only a place of work for harvesting, but also a place of rest. With a certain amount of fantasy, you can remarkably combine beauty and benefit. After a long and tedious hilling of potatoes or picking cherries under the scorching summer sun, it will be pleasant to sit in the shade of the trees, contemplating the small pond or flowerbed itself created.
And a little about secrets ...
Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:
- inability to move easily and comfortably;
- discomfort when going up and down stairs;
- unpleasant crunch, clicking not of their own free will;
- pain during or after exercise;
- joint inflammation and swelling;
- unreasonable and sometimes unbearable aching pain in the joints ...
Now answer the question: does this suit you? How can you endure such pain? And how much money have you already "poured" on ineffective treatment? That's right - it's time to end it! Do you agree? That is why we decided to publish an exclusive interview with Professor Dikul, in which he revealed the secrets of getting rid of joint pain, arthritis and arthrosis.
Why shouldn't we weed after all? After all, if you systematically weed, then there will be no weeds either.
The difference is that by cutting the growth point below the ground or mowing the above ground part, you are causing the same stem to grow again. One. And as soon as you dig up or pull out the weed, then on all the scraps of the root system remaining in the soil, the buds of renewal will immediately wake up, and this will provoke the growth of a whole horde of weeds instead of one. It's very easy to check. Dig up one dandelion plant in the spring and cut another dandelion plant next to it. After a couple of weeks, look and you will see that one plant appeared again in the place of the cut plant, and many in the place of the torn one. This is another survival method that Mother Nature has given her children. They renew themselves from the smallest part of the root or rhizome remaining in the ground.
Well, well, we have learned to deal with perennial rhizome weeds. But what about weed seeds in vegetable beds? Here you cannot do without weeding!
But no. It turns out that they can be strongly squeezed in the beds. In any case, you can do without the tedious many hours of weeding. For this, we just need to grow weeds in the beds in advance.
In the spring, when you arrive at your site, it is better even before the last snow melts, you scatter ash or peat directly on the snow on the beds to slightly blacken their surface. Then cover the beds with stubs of old film, lay them on top of the poles so that the wind does not lift the film up or carry it away. In the spring, the sun is hot and under the layer of film the blackened snow on the beds will quickly melt, the surface layer of the soil will warm up, and weeds will quickly sprout from it. This will happen in about 10-12 days. If after two weeks you visit your site and see that the weeds have sprouted, remove the film, loosen the topsoil and leave the beds open for a day. Young shoots of weeds will die.
Weeds are most vulnerable at the stage when they have only two cotyledonous leaves. At this moment, they have only a weak hair of the central root, and if they are simply loosened right now, they will die. But as soon as they have real leaves, fighting with them becomes tiresome. Firstly, they have already formed lateral root branches, which means that as soon as you weed the beds and remove the weeds, new ones will immediately crawl out of all the scraps of roots. Secondly, if you leave the weeded plants in the garden, then after the first rain in the next 2-3 days the weeds will take root and continue to grow as if nothing had happened. Therefore, weeds in the beds should be destroyed as early as possible.
After you have loosened the first shoots of weeds, a day later again cover the beds with foil and calmly leave for another 1-2 weeks. Arriving at the site a second time, you will again see weed shoots under the film. These are the seeds that sprout from deeper layers of the soil. Repeat the same operation again. After a day, you can sow seeds in beds that are free from weeds. But at the same time, you must understand that such a bed should not be dug before sowing! Otherwise, from the lower layers of the soil, you will again carry the weed seeds to the upper layer, and they will sprout safely.
The fact is that there are weed seeds throughout the soil. They are stored in a deep layer, like money in a bank. But as soon as these seeds fall into the top layer, they immediately begin to germinate. The trick is that the length of the hypocotal knee (the distance from the root collar to the cotyledons) does not exceed 7 cm, so they do not emerge from the lower soil layer, but simply lie there and wait for years for their chance.
The work of pre-growing weeds in the garden is small and not at all hard. It just needs to be done on time. At least instead of doing the difficult and completely pointless watering of the garden with boiling water in the early spring. But this simple event for preliminary cultivation of weeds in the garden will save you from laborious weeding of the beds throughout the season.
If you didn't manage to do this, arrived at the site, and all the vegetable beds are covered with a green carpet of weeds, then take the Strizh weeder or Fokin's flat cutter - and go! It is necessary to cut off all the weeds from the surface of the beds, sinking 4–5 cm into the soil, and leave the weeds on the bed for a day. After that, make furrows with the edge of the board, pour them well with water (preferably from a kettle), "salt" the planting grooves with the dust fraction of the wonderful AVA fertilizer (information about this fertilizer can be obtained on the Internet [email protected] and on the website www. avamarket.com) and sow vegetable and herb seeds. Slightly level the soil on crops. Seal with a board and cover the beds with old plastic, secure it. Before emergence, the film will retain moisture and warmth in the soil. Naturally, as soon as the shoots appear, the film must be removed, and the aisles must be loosened to destroy the weed shoots. Weeds can be left directly in the garden if the weather is dry. If you have sown long-emerging crops (carrots, dill, parsley), then weed shoots may appear before your crops, and, loosening the weeds, you can accidentally drive into rows with crops. In such cases, among the seeds of those crops that take a long time to germinate, it is necessary to sow several seeds of a lighthouse culture, which sprout quickly, distributing the seeds throughout the row. Radish, lettuce, spinach sprout quickly. They will mark the rows of crops.
Agree, it is much easier to walk 2-3 times a season with a weeder or a small Fokin flat cutter among the crops, rather than weeding the beds, standing for hours on your knees. You just need to accustom yourself to some discipline and do this work on time.
The easiest way to get rid of weeds in the beds is right in the fall. As soon as the crop is harvested, immediately cover the beds with opaque material. Black spunbond or lutrasil are best suited, since such a material does not transmit light, but it does water and air. You can use black film or special black-and-white film of the Shar company, and even just black-and-white newspapers folded in three layers. You can learn about Shar films on the Internet [email protected]
When planting seedlings in the ground, you can also use black covering material, having previously spread it on the garden bed and secured it. Then you need to make holes in it and plant seedlings in them. In many European countries, the "Swedish bed" has long been used. What it is? This is a specially prepared cardboard made of peat with the addition of all necessary macro- and microelements. Usually it is cut into strips about 80 cm wide and 3–7 m long, spread on prepared beds and fixed. Then cut holes for planting seedlings, make holes in them, add everything you need to them, fill the holes with water and, when it is absorbed into the soil, plant seedlings. No additional fertilizing will be required all summer. Only watering directly over the shelter, if necessary. During the season, the shelter is completely utilized by soil microorganisms and plant roots, and nothing remains on the beds. Pests living in the soil (for example, a cruciferous flea) cannot come to the surface and die, weeds do not germinate, flying pests (all kinds of scoops or vegetable flies) also cannot lay eggs on the soil, and therefore do not cause damage, moisture from the soil does not evaporate, therefore watering is significantly reduced. At one time, "Swedish Gardens" were sold in our stores.
Can you make something like this yourself? Well, of course! You just have to add all the necessary mineral nutrients to the surface layer of the soil. For this, the dusty fraction of the AVA fertilizer is most suitable, about one and a half teaspoons for each meter of planting is enough ("salt" the soil surface with it). If the soil is acidic, add additional dolomite, half a glass per meter (or ash, a glass per meter). Dig everything up a little to a depth of no more than 5 cm.All this should be applied to a garden moistened in the evening. After fertilizing, cover the bed with cardboard or newspapers in several layers, fix them on the bed (newspapers can be fixed by simply sprinkling them lightly with soil or sand). Make holes at the right distance from each other and plant the seedlings.
So, weeding is the worst way to control weeds. And the most ineffective.
Do not water!
As soon as evening came, buckets rattled on the plots, pumps squealed, water rumbled. This is a ritual, a punishment. Even in such a super-humid region as the North-West or the Far East, the Kaliningrad region is also there. Well, it would be good for the arid regions of Siberia or the South, but no, this phenomenon is ubiquitous and completely inevitable. But the job is one of the most laborious! Even with a pump.
Let's think, do plants need so much water? Well, if you need it somehow, how can you make your job easier?
Let's start with a simple thesis: it is better to keep water in the soil than to pour it there endlessly (especially since plants manage to grab only a third of the water poured under them during irrigation, and two-thirds evaporates from the surface of the moist soil or goes down). Can this be done? Easily, if you do not allow moisture to evaporate from the surface of the earth. How does nature do it? And she does not allow the soil to be empty. All the free space is now occupied by plants and cover the soil from direct sunlight and dry air. Anything that grows on the surface of the soil prevents wasted moisture loss. Plants evaporate water through the leaves dozens of times less than the sun and wind evaporate it from the bare ground.
Hence, one should immediately draw a conclusion (by the way, well-known to everyone): the soil must be protected from moisture evaporation from its surface.
To do this, cover the soil surface. Usually it is offered to mulch. You can use a lot. In America, and in European countries, for example, mulch is sold specially made from the waste of the woodworking industry - tree bark. This mulch is considered the best. She does not rot for a long time, and therefore does not change chemical composition topsoil. It does not soak well, and therefore remains dry, but at the same time it is heavy enough for the wind, so that it does not spread around it. In addition, this mulch is good for air permeability. Due to its dark color, it is well heated by the sun during the daytime and keeps warm for a long time at night. That is, it has a lot of advantages. But the trouble is, our sawmills do not make it, their owners still imagine that they live in the richest country in the world, and therefore it is easier for them to burn the bark than to establish mulch production from it. And the colossal profit that wood gives them allows them to do this. What is there to be crummy, letting bark into production, it's easier to burn it. I think when we become completely impoverished, we will also remember about the bark. "It's a pity - you won't have to live in this wonderful time - neither for me, nor for you."
So rely on the bark, but do not make a mistake and use what is at hand. There is sawdust - let them lie down for a year or two and mulch. There is a coniferous forest nearby - pick up needles, but do not forget to add ash or dolomite, lime, chalk to them. What is in the bins, then use it, since the needles strongly acidify the soil. It is good to mulch with high-moor peat, it is only slightly inferior to mulch from the bark, but it also acidifies the soil, so you have to add deoxidizers. You can mulch with non-woven covering materials (spunbond, lutrasil and others), but black. You can use sphagnum moss, it is also bactericidal, at the same time it will kill harmful bacteria. But keep in mind that the soil under it is always 2-3 degrees colder than uncovered, and 5-10 degrees lower than under a dark shelter, so in cold regions in a greenhouse where heat-loving plants grow, they cannot mulch the soil follows. You can use cardboard and even ordinary newspapers, folded in several layers and glued together with adhesive tape in a cloth. In the greenhouse, the soil can be mulched with torn pieces and crumpled newspapers. In the first, hottest spring weeks, leaves fallen in autumn serve as mulch. So do not rake them in the spring for the sake of beauty and cleanliness. The awakened worms themselves will drag them into their holes and there they will process them into humus, not without the help of overwintered microorganisms. However, plants growing on it also serve as a good cover for the soil, so it is better to tin gardens. If you have just begun to develop your site, then do not remove all the grass cover, but only where you will build a house, lay paths, plant trees, and so on. Moreover, you should not remove the sod at once throughout the marking. Only shoot where in this moment going to build and plant. Under trees and bushes, you need to remove exactly as much as necessary to lay a planting hole or seat.
So, in order to get rid of problems with watering and fertilizing in the garden, you need to show some ingenuity. The simplest thing is to prevent moisture from evaporating from the soil. To do this, the soil should be loosened, or even better - mulched.
You, of course, noticed that the soil under woodlice is never dry. It is always wet and loose. The same is true under any tinning. How can you tin a plot if you, without thinking or unknowingly, removed all the sod and now all you do is water and fight weeds? White clover, bent grass, cinquefoil goose, oxalis (oxilis), and of course any lawn mixtures are suitable. You will have to mow some of these crops, but this is not a weed control for you. Let me tell you straight: even if you have weeds growing everywhere, then their regular mowing brings the site into an acceptable form. Suppression of weeds will gradually lead to their death, but the grass from mowing only thickens, so your weed lawn will gradually turn into a grass lawn, you do not even need to use Lontrel to destroy dandelions or other weeds on the lawn.
Well, suppose we mulch the garden or make it tinned (that is, sow green manure under trees and bushes or arrange a lawn), and the beds, but what about greenhouses? You can also not water them? There are also some considerations that have been confirmed by experience.
Not all cultures are as helpless as we think. All garden crops can be conditionally divided into four groups. The first includes those inhabitants of the beds who do not know how to extract moisture and spend it uneconomically. These are cabbage, cucumber, salad, radish. The second group includes those plants that produce water poorly, but spend it sparingly. This group includes peppers, onions and garlic. The third group of plants produces water well, but it is wasted uneconomically. These plants include rutabagas and beets (if you shortened their central root when transplanting seedlings). And the fourth, the most numerous and fittest group of plants, which know how to extract water well and spend it economically. These are tomatoes, carrots, parsley, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, watermelon.
Hence the irrigation rates. Most of all, plants belonging to the first and third groups need regular watering. And least of all, those that are in the last group need moisture. In fact, these plants don't need to be watered all summer long if you do something about planting them.
Let's start with tomatoes. If you don’t want to run around with a watering can all summer long, then when picking seedlings, in no case break off the tip of the root - it should grow down, and not branch. Before planting seedlings, you need to make a depression, a little larger than a lump of soil with roots. Add half a teaspoon of the dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer, a dessert spoon of double granular superphosphate. Gradually pour 4–5 liters of water into the hole. After that, plant the seedlings, water, slightly tame them and mulch well. That's all. No additional fertilizing, no watering will be required all summer long. Except when there is prolonged cold weather. At temperatures below 12 degrees Celsius for a week, the plant begins to experience a sharp starvation, since the root system does not work, so you should feed the plants by leaves. It is best to use a solution of such drugs as "Florist", "Aquadon-micro", "Uniflor-growth" or "Uniflor-bud". The last one is the most preferred. It is enough to take 4 teaspoons of fertilizer per 10 liters of water and spray the plants in the evening. Suction takes about 4 hours, so it is important that there is no bright sun and rain at this time. Tomatoes have a powerful root system, and it can go to great depths in search of moisture. If the tomatoes are watered regularly, then the roots (especially if you pinched the tip of the central root during the pick, as recommended in the literature) widely spread over the surface and become dependents. As soon as for some reason you cannot water them, when the topsoil dries up, the sucking hairs on the roots will dry out, and the tomato can shed flowers and even ovaries.
You cannot do this with pepper, since it has a shallow root system, and it can shed flowers, buds and ovaries even with a slight drying out of the topsoil, and therefore you should protect yourself from such an incident. To do this, before transplanting the pepper, you need to make a hole the size of a lump of earth with roots at the seedlings, pour a third of a teaspoon of AVA fertilizer into the hole, add a dessert spoon of any chlorine-free potassium fertilizer, then add half a glass of the prepared hydrogel to the planting hole. After that, plant the seedlings without burying them in the soil below the level at which they grew in a glass, water, squeeze and mulch. That's all for that too. You only need watering once every three weeks in hot weather to replenish the water in the hydrogel. In wet or cool weather, watering is not necessary, but foliar feeding, like tomatoes, will be required, otherwise the pepper will even drop the leaves.
What is a hydrogel?
It is a polymer crumb that swells in water by more than 250 times and retains water and soil solutions, preventing moisture from evaporating from the surface or going into deeper layers of the earth. Thus, there is always moisture in the root zone, available to the sucking hairs of the roots. Polymers have the ability, upon oxidation (including combustion), to decompose into carbon dioxide and water, so that the use of a hydrogel does not harm the ecological environment.
It is necessary to soak polymer chips 2-3 hours before use, until jelly ("jelly") forms. It should not be left diluted for a long time, since in air it will begin to decompose into carbon dioxide and water. Enough 1 teaspoon (5 g) for 1.5 liters of water.
When sowing, carrots are best mixed with AVA powder. To do this, take a teaspoon of seeds and a teaspoon of fertilizer for half a glass of fine sand. Mix well and sow in the furrows "how to salt". Furrows, of course, should be well watered with water from a kettle before sowing. If the spring is dry and there is not enough moisture in the soil, then on the eve of sowing it is necessary in the evening to spill very well the entire bed with water and immediately cover it with foil. The moisture under the film will remain and saturate the bed to its entire depth. After sowing, the furrows should be compacted with a board, the bed should be covered with foil to keep warm and moisture in the soil. After sprouting, replace the film with lutrasil or spunbond, which must be removed only for weeding or thinning. It is better to replace weeding by loosening row spacings and shaving off weeds, if any. And leave the weeds right there, in the aisles of carrots. Usually, with this method of sowing, there will be no thickened seedlings, so thinning is practically not required. The food will be sufficient for the entire season. Watering should be done only in dry weather directly along the lutrasil, in the evening, and only until a bunch of 4-5 leaves appears. From this moment, a root crop is formed in the carrot, and it ceases to need a large amount of moisture, since its central root goes far into the soil, and there moisture will be found. Under cover, carrots are unattainable for pests, so there will be no problems with them. Allow some room for the covering material so that the carrot tops can rise to the desired height. Parsley can be grown in the same way.
If you plant zucchini or pumpkins on a compost pile that you piled up last summer, then you will not have any problems with watering and feeding, if, of course, you cover the pile after sowing with plastic wrap, which you will not remove all summer, but only release the grown ones up to the plant film.
In fact, it should be remembered that melons, watermelons, zucchini and pumpkins came to us from arid regions, so they do not need a lot of moisture. On the contrary, with an excess of moisture in the cell sap, they will not only be poorly stored, but will rot right in the beds. Usually at noon, their leaves are slightly tied. This is the plant's defensive reaction against excess moisture evaporation from the leaves. The next morning they stand as if nothing had happened. However, many gardeners, as soon as they see that the plants have dropped their leaves, immediately grab buckets and watering cans.
From the plants of the third group, rutabagas need feeding and watering all summer. But beets can do without watering starting with 5-6 true leaves, because by this time they also grow a long root, which will find water at a depth of 2-3 meters. To preserve this root, when transplanting seedlings, do not shorten it contrary to book advice. She will need only organic fertilizing on a regular bed and only in the first half of the summer, if you add half a teaspoon of AVA powder to each well when transplanting seedlings. If you constantly mulch the aisles with grass mown from lawns (or mowed weeds), then organic fertilizing of beets will not be required.
Onions and garlic - plants from the second group - need moisture in the first half of summer, when their feather grows, and in the second, when they pupate, that is, lay a bulb, moisture is categorically contraindicated for them.
The most time-consuming work with children from the first group. Cabbage and cucumbers are the biggest drinkers, and cabbage is not only a drinker, but also a decent goblin. So you have to feed and water the whole season. When planting seedlings, add a dessert spoon of calcium nitrate, a teaspoon of AVA dust, the same amount of any potassium (cabbage is chlorine-resistant) into the hole, pour the full holes of the hearth, then plant the seedlings.
However, this does not end there. Need regular watering in the evening and weekly feeding. You can significantly ease your lot if you plant seedlings on a hydrogel, then watering and feeding can be combined and done once every two weeks. You can lay a hose with holes along the rows of cabbage. Connect the hose to the bottom of the low concentration nutrient barrel. The barrel should be on a stand so that the bottom is just above the level of the bed. Nutrient moisture will constantly flow by gravity to the plant roots. Your task will be to ensure that the barrel does not empty to the very bottom. It's easier than running buckets to the cabbage patch. If there is no suitable barrel, place plastic bottles between the rows of plantings, in the side surface of which make holes about a third of the bottom of the bottles and bury the bottles in the soil so that all the holes are in the ground. Unscrew the plugs. Pour a weak solution of organic fertilizer into the bottles (for example, weed infusion diluted with water 1: 5, or manure diluted with water 1: 10), add half a spoonful of the dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer. If the solution leaves the bottles too quickly, twist them several times in the soil so that earthen plugs form in the holes. You will need to bottle the nutrient solution from an old kettle about once every 3-4 weeks. That's all the work. It is better to arrange the bottles in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of about 70-80 cm from each other.
You can do without mineral fertilizing all summer long and without AVA, if you use apions- special bags with fertilizer "Solution" of the Buisk chemical plant. The sachet shell works on the principle of a membrane, that is, it does not allow the fertilizer to leave the sachet into the soil solution, but allows the roots to suck the fertilizer out of the sachet as needed. Roots are known to have chemotropism - the ability to determine the place where there is drink and food, and accordingly grow in this direction. They literally braid the apions. It is enough to dig in one packet to the depth of the palm between every four plants before planting seedlings, and that's all. If the soil is well filled with organic matter, then no additional fertilizing is necessary all summer. Apions is a very promising direction in the use of mineral fertilizers. But so far they have one drawback: the shell - the membrane - does not collapse during the season and thus clogs the soil. We have to pick this garbage by hand in the fall. More information about apions can be found on the Internet at www. apion.al.ru. With cucumbers, things are easier. They can be planted on a hydrogel, added when planting a little dolomite (for the sake of magnesium), a dessert spoon of potassium nitrate and half a teaspoon of the AVA dust fraction. Watering will be reduced to once every three weeks. Combine them with organic fertilizing (infusion of weeds, green grass, manure). Or you can do the same watering with a nutrient solution through a hose, as for cabbage or through plastic bottles, or even better - plant it on a gel, and feed it through apions. So it all comes down to planting and watering every three weeks. It is enough to water salad and radish with water, but, alas, regularly. They will do without additional fertilizing, just when sowing seeds, "salt" the grooves with the AVA dust fraction immediately in place. This will be enough for them. Although they are drinkers, they do not belong to the lovers of good food. How to find out if there is enough moisture in the soil?Take a lump of soil from a depth of about 10 cm and squeeze it in a fist. If moisture seeps through your fingers, the soil moisture is excessive, about 80%. If this moisture remains in the soil for about a week, then deeper ditches should be dug between the beds to drain excess water. If, after squeezing the soil into a lump, moisture does not come out between your fingers, open your palm. The lump of soil has not disintegrated - the moisture is sufficient, about 60%, and nothing needs to be done. Well, if after opening the palm, the lump fell apart, then the soil moisture is insufficient, about 40%, and the planting must be urgently watered. It is better to do this in the evening, so that the moisture does not evaporate, but is absorbed. The next morning after watering, slightly loosen the bed - this is much easier than watering again after a week. And the effect will be the same.
