Growing radishes: how to get a good harvest. The choice of radish variety. So, to get root vegetables, not flowers, it is necessary.

Radish is a fairly early ripening vegetable. It is often grown in greenhouses. But you can perform this action in open ground... To do this, you need to know just a few simple rules and even an inexperienced gardener can handle the process.

In order for the radish to fully grow and develop, it needs to prepare a favorable soil. When planting radishes, you must remember that its soil should be as loose as possible. If such soil is not provided for this plant, then cracks will form on its fruits. That is why, before planting radishes, the soil is dug up and the appropriate fertilizers are introduced into it.

It also benefits a flavor that might otherwise be too tangy. This happens when the roots reach a size that can be sold. It is necessary not to interfere with the stripping, as the aroma of the flesh can be changed. Harvesting takes place two to four months after sowing, depending on the sowing period. The minimum weight is 100 grams, but this depends on the specific variety. It is important for the root to be crispy and soda-rich, and flavorful. If it's still soft, rich in fluids, and a little aromatic, it's best to wait at least a week.

The ideal option for planting this plant is super sandy, slightly acidic soil.

Fertilizing the soil:

  • In order for radish to form root crops correctly, it needs to provide an optimal amount of mineral fertilizers. These fertilizers include potassium salt and superphosphate.
  • Fertilization of the soil directly depends on the planting period of the plant. When applying fertilizers, you need to know that fresh manure adversely affects radishes. That is why it is by no means worth using it as fertilizer.
  • Fertilization of the soil should be done in advance. For example, if radish planting is planned for the spring, then the soil is fertilized in the fall.
  • On square meter the area allocated for radish must be brought in at least one bucket of manure, which is overfilled.

The choice of a place for planting this plant also plays an important role. This culture is very fond of lighting and therefore must be planted in very well-lit areas. Also, the planting site of this plant must be reliably protected from the wind.

The roots are removed from the ground with a fork. Then it will be cleaned and dried in the sun for at least a day, finally cutting off the leaves. Ramolaccio is quite tolerant in this aspect. For good results it is good to work, carefully, turn and crush plows at least 30 cm deep and free it from any roots and rocks. It is important that his brace does not encounter obstacles during growth: this could cause malformations or completely block development.

It is also important to provide a backing that can quickly release excess water, keeping it slightly moist and cool for a long time. To achieve this, it is always beneficial to improve texture by distributing abundant organic additives and avoiding areas that are too clayey and heavy. To overcome the small drainage soil, you can lay bumps with a height of at least 15 cm, on top of which our cultivation can be inserted. This will drain off excess water.


There are three ways to grow radishes outdoors:

  1. Spring
  2. Winter
  3. Let's winter

The podzimny method of planting this plant is to sow seeds in the month of November. In the event that at this moment the ground is frozen, then dry seeds must be sown into the ground. After sowing the radish seeds, they are covered with humus. This method of planting this plant requires choosing a southern or southeastern site. Also, when planting radishes in the winter period, it is necessary to pay attention so that in the autumn period the place is not flooded with submerged waters.

From this point of view, ramolaccio is not a demanding vegetable. You can grow safely with fertilizer prepared for previous crops. It is inserted into plots to close the embryonic cycles even after very demanding plants such as hodgepodge.

We also note that excess nitrogen very often causes breakdown in the roots. Irrigation should be regular. Therefore, the soil should always be moist, but it is absolutely necessary to avoid stagnant water, because this can cause rotting in the root or collar.

On the contrary, dryness of the substrate should be avoided as it contributes to an extremely biting, spicy and bitter taste. Ramolaccio grows with good autonomy. Keeping a site free of weeds is always important so that they don't infest our crops, other than stealing water and food. In the early days, however, it is best to eliminate them by working with great care, especially close to the collar: the ideal is to deal very often and only with the help of your hands. When you reach a height of 15 cm, you can start using tools to crush the soil, loosen it and increase its penetration into the water.

In order to get radish shoots not two weeks earlier than during spring planting, it is planted in winter.

When using this method of planting, the beds are prepared in the fall. For this, grooves are cut, the width of which is five centimeters. During a snowy winter, snow is removed from the beds before radish planting. Seeds are sown into the prepared grooves, and they are covered with peat on top.

In winter, to prevent extremely harsh temperatures from damaging the crop, it is best to apply a thick mulch layer of straw, leaves, or perhaps spread overnight, one or more layers of nonwoven fabric. These operations are unnecessary if the ground is covered with at least 15 cm of snow. This, in fact, has excellent insulating strength and is sufficient to protect both the roots and the air side from cold winds and frost.

Ramolaccio is usually pretty healthy. In the early stages of cultivation, especially in the spring and fall, it can fall prey to alcohol and saliva. To combat them, you can use beer traps or create barriers with ash, cornmeal, or eggshells. Only in extreme cases do we use special products, with particular attention to the case of pets or children.

The spring method is most often used when planting this plant:

  • Planting radish after the retreat of winter cold.
  • Radish is planted directly into open ground.
  • The planting time for radishes in spring directly depends on the characteristics of the region.
  • Most often, radishes are planted from late April to early May.
  • Planting radishes is carried out only when a long-term temperature of +15 degrees is established. In this case, the night temperature should not be lower than +5 degrees.
  • Before planting the seeds, the beds are dug up and grooves are made in them.
  • The distance between the grooves should be at least twenty centimeters.
  • Planting seeds can be done in handfuls. Crops are dug in and moistened abundantly.

If the need arises for the emergence of seedlings a few days earlier, the place of planting of this plant is covered with a film. The first shoots of radish appear within five days. Most often, a large number of seeds are used for planting radishes, so the first shoots appear crowded.

Another fairly common enemy is the altar: a small beetle that attacks foliage, creating bucetti. Strong attacks can have a marked reduction in growth. Their presence is immense in dry and hot weather. Frequent irrigation and keeping the soil always slightly moist is a good way to prevent this problem. Other parasites, less harmful, are: coagulant, aphid, nodule, white fly. There are also cases of mold, mosaic, hernia, pitting and white rust.

Half of Italians call it the same thing in another. Radish is distinguished by its root shape, skin color and ripening age, which can be premature or late. This should only give you an idea of \u200b\u200bthe many varieties that you will find on the market so that you can behave when you buy a bag of seeds naturally looking at the expiration date!

In order for the radish not to "stack", it must be weeded. For this, the strongest plants are selected. 2-3 seedlings are left after 5-6 centimeters. After a few days, the strongest are selected from these seedlings, and the rest are pulled out.


When to sow radish - Sowing is done right in the garden from the end of winter and throughout the summer, usually when the land begins to warm up, to the center-north from March to the south even earlier. Among the many varieties, there is some autumn ripening such as the black radish that is sown in July. Then check the envelope for the best planting times, which may vary depending on the variety you choose.

If you are interested in the phases of the moon, know that the radish is sown on a waning moon. Where to Grow Radishes - Radish loves clean, dry, sunny and cool soil. We'll drop the seed about one inch deep and then rake the soil with a light rake, finally, as usual, we'll water.

In order for the fruits of the radish to be large and juicy, it needs to be weeded regularly. This not only removes weeds, but also loosens the soil, which has a beneficial effect on the size of the fruit. Also, this plant needs watering. In very dry soils, the fruits of the radish will taste small and bitter, and the ground part will begin to throw out arrows. Thinning of a given plant should only begin when the seeds are mostly germinated. This action is carried out approximately 5-7 days after sowing when the rows are clearly visible.

Young seedlings will take a little time to get out, and before they become too long and thin to grow, leaving a space of 15 cm from each other. Like a radish for water - If there is one thing that accompanies all radishes, it is the constant need for water. This may depend on the success or failure of its improvement. The soil is too dry to be woody and too spicy.

How to grow and harvest radishes. In addition to watering, which should never fail, it's good that the tiled concrete is weed-free and grunts well to cool the soil. Summer radish usually takes about a month after sowing, but we always pay attention to the variety. Don't leave them in the soil for too long as they can harden and become too spicy. These winters take longer to mature and can stay longer in the ground.

After the final thinning, the radishes must be watered with a watering can for rooting.

This is necessary, since during thinning, the root system of the radish can be disturbed, which may not strengthen without water. Watering the radish is necessary from a watering can. On average, two liters of water must be poured over one square meter of the garden bed.

Danger. Radish can be attacked from the root of the grass, aphids, nettles, spinach, or fleas that tend to bark from the leaves.

Let's take a list that will be easy to follow, let's not take it as an ironclad rule that you have to be scrupulous and binding in punishing the death of all vegetables! Patience, don't make drama! Our vegetables will grow in the same way. Will they become better and more resistant to disease?

Take care of them and everything will be fine! What to sow on the crescent: fruits and legumes But then there are exceptions: carrots and parsley, because they grow by a slowly growing and growing moon, it stimulates development; basil, which sows in the crescent, but is transplanted into the waning moon; rucola, agretto, cardo. In cultivation lunar sowing and transplants also flavor: acetose, dill, coriander, watercress, caraway seeds, mint, onion, oregano, etc.

Also, after planting radishes, he needs to ensure timely fertilization. Urea and mullein are used as fertilizers. You need to take one teaspoon of urea, and one glass of mullein. Five liters of the resulting solution can be used to treat 1 square meter of the garden. Thanks to the introduction of these fertilizers, the development of radish will be significantly accelerated. In order to limit the radish from the possibility of a pest attacking it, before weeding the beds, it is necessary to pour ground pepper or dry mustard in the amount of 1 teaspoon per 1 square meter.

What to sow on a waning moon: leafy vegetables to keep them out soon to seed and bulbous or rooted. Carducci and artichokes also put pollen on the moon. As for the different types of cabbage, there are two schools of thought: many sow them on the waning moon, but some of their seeds grow and transplant them into waste. But they all seem to agree that cauliflower and broccoli grow.

If other sources say otherwise, they can each choose based on their own sensitivity or experience. Climatic considerations are obviously of paramount value for every cultivation. Despite the fact that today the choice made by different types, allowed to significantly improve and adapt, there are climatic conditions that should be considered favorable or unfavorable for different crops. In fact, who better than a trusted gardener or even a farmer can give you helpful advice on the specifics of this place?

Harvesting is done as it ripens. If the fruits have reached normal size, then they must be harvested. To do this, you just need to gently pull the plant by the stem.


Radishes can be affected by weevils, cabbage moths, cabbage fly larvae and many others.

Either way, you'll find all the tips you need in the section on culture maps. The sun in the garden is of paramount importance and different decisions should be made depending on the local climatic conditions. It is clear that it is impossible to consider all possible cases, and therefore we will give you the maximum readings. In Val Padan, on level ground, it is definitely worth discarding the location of the garden to the north of the building, compact rows of trees or other elements that keep it in the shade for many hours of the day: in this situation, facing south Allows constant and uniform sunlight for all plants.

In order to limit the possibility of the appearance of these pests, it is necessary to sprinkle the beds with ordinary wood ash. Before planting this plant, you should not use wood ash, as it can cause arrows to appear, which will negatively affect the harvest. If radish is damaged by pests, it is necessary to immediately begin to combat them.

In hilly areas or the Apennine orientation often depends on the slope of the ground: if this is great, even in a small garden, it is advisable to carry out terracing work by laying large stones and refilling with filling the ground. Laying can be dry, forming the shape of individual stones or concrete mortarwhere the shape is too irregular or rounded. These jobs allow for small, flat pieces that are properly drained and easy to work with. In very hot southern areas, landscaping can also be located to the east, so it will be more active in the afternoon.

  • If you find a weevil beetle on the garden bed, then you need to spray the plant with special insecticides. Also, to prevent the appearance of this pest, you can plant garlic and onions around the garden garden. Cabbage moth attacks the ground part of this plant, which negatively affects the yield. When this pest appears, the garden bed with radishes must be treated with antibacterial drugs.
  • Cabbage fly larvae are a very dangerous enemy of radishes. Therefore, when they appear, you must immediately begin to fight them. When this pest appears, the plant bed is treated with special insecticides or wood ash.
  • Radish can also be affected by diseases such as black leg, white and gray rot, etc. Powdery mildew appears on radish leaves in the form of a white bloom. When the first signs of the disease appear, you must immediately begin to fight it. For this purpose, both chemical and bacterial methods can be used. With the bacterial control method, special spray preparations are used. When using a chemical method, the use of fungicides is required. Also, when this disease appears, it is imperative to remove the affected leaves of the plant.
  • When a black leg appears on a radish, it is necessary to start fighting it immediately, otherwise it will destroy not only the ground part, but also the fruits of the radish. To do this, it is necessary not to overmoisten the soil during watering, and also to carry out regular loosening. You can also use insecticides to control disease. White and gray rot can occur on the tops and top of the radish fruit, located above the ground. At the first signs of this disease, it is necessary to remove the affected plants from the garden, and also treat them with special preparations.

Growing radishes in the open field is a fairly simple process, which consists of sowing, caring for and controlling pests and diseases.

In especially succulent areas of the home, enclosing walls or wall fences can play an important protective function of the garden by acting as winding barriers. This is especially true around the coast, where there is frequent wind and contains sea water filled with salt. As you may have noticed, there are some considerations involved in knowing the location quite accurately in order to determine the location of the garden. For this reason, it is useful to determine your location only after having lived in a certain location for a while: unfortunate choices can lead to frustration and a poor investment of time and effort.

More information can be found in the video.

Selection of varieties

I focus only on early maturing radish varieties, in the climatic conditions of the Northwest they have the most chances to ripen several times per season. From the first shoots to the set of technical maturity, this radish lasts, on average, 16-20 days. On my site, I tried to plant different early ripening varieties (Heat, Rubin, Presto), but most of all I was pleased with the results of growing two varieties - "18 days" and "French breakfast". The radishes grow very beautiful - bright red cylinders with white tails, about 10 cm long. The pulp is very tasty, almost no pungency is felt. Children grump such radishes as carrots. In addition, it is convenient to cut it into a salad.


Landing dates

On many seed bags, growers indicate that radishes can be sown in the ground from April to August throughout the season. This information is only partially true. From my own experience, I was convinced that planting dates are very important for radishes - their gardener should select them, focusing on the climate of his region, taking as an axiom that the ideal temperature for growing root crops in radishes is + 15-20 degrees, in more greenhouse conditions, radishes tend to to flowering, i.e. goes into the barrel. The second point that should not be forgotten is the length of daylight hours. The longer the day, the more the radish tends to bloom, so it is not grown in June, or various tricks are used to reduce daylight hours. It turns out that there are three options for planting radishes:
• in early spring,
• in the second half of summer,
• before winter (or even in winter).

Early spring planting

We do not come to the dacha earlier than May 1, so for many years now I have been planting radishes in early and mid-May, during this period the early ripening varieties give a very good harvest, because the temperature in the Leningrad region is about + 15-22 degrees. However, if May is very hot (like two years ago - up to +28), then I regret not having planted the radishes earlier, most of the harvest goes into the trunk. Therefore, if it is already hot in your region in May, then it is better to plant radishes in early April, or even in March, because for its germination it is enough for the soil to warm up to +10 degrees. To speed up the process, you can spill the soil with an EM-preparation and warm it up beforehand under a covering material or plant radishes in a closed greenhouse, root crops will have time to grow before planting the main crops.

Experiment with shortening daylight hours

In June and early July, during the White Nights, you should not plant radishes in the Leningrad Region, but I really want to. When I found out that it is possible to artificially reduce the daylight hours for radishes, I got down to business. The first time a few years ago this experience was not successful, but I did not calm down - I decided to try again, especially since I plant radishes not on an industrial scale, just a couple of rows, I have the opportunity to groom and cherish it:
• As soon as the radish sprouts crawled out of the ground, I put four posts with carnations, pulled a wire between them.



• Every evening, at about 18-19: 00, I “put the radishes to bed,” covered them with a piece of burlap, and opened them in the morning (at about 9:00).



• Not one radish went into the trunk, but it took longer to ripen than usual, and the roots were short and not fleshy.



For myself, I concluded that you cannot argue with nature, that there is no pleasure from planting radishes in the middle of summer, it is better to wait. However, the method of reducing daylight hours can work at normal times, at the time of building up root crops, so it makes sense to install a small tent over the radish.

Late autumn planting and sowing before winter

In the period from late June to mid-August, you can try sowing radishes again, late radishes rarely go into the trunk and, with adequate care, yields good fleshy roots. If the nights are already very cold, you can cover the planting with hay, the radish grows well through it.
In addition, if we stay at the dacha until the end of October - the beginning of November, then we always sow radishes before winter: choose the sunniest piece, put seeds in the grooves and sprinkle with compost 2 cm. This planting method does not always give a good result with us, because sometimes a normal spring does not come for so long that some of the seeds have time to rot, because too long in the ground. The same risks are present when planting radishes in early spring in frozen ground or in winter, when from December to February they rake snow on a prepared bed, plant radishes there and sprinkle them with compost or peat.

Sow a radish? It couldn't be easier

Sowing a radish is much easier than deciding on the optimal planting time:
• Choosing a sunny place.
• We loosen the ground and make grooves at a distance of 15 cm and a depth of 2-3 cm.
• Radishes do not require special fertilizers, ash and sand can be added to the furrow or garden bed before sowing.
• Because I have rather poor soil on the site, planting in the same place has been carried out many times, then I make 4-5 cm grooves and put compost in each place or pour real manure.
• Radish germinates very well, so you can immediately spread the seeds after 4-5 cm (for elongated varieties, like mine, after 2-3 cm), but it's easier for me to sprinkle the seeds and then thin out.
• Then we fill the furrow with compost by 1.5-2 cm.
• Seedlings are shown in 3-5 days. If the seeds are soaked for a day, then the sprouts can come out even on the second day.


Radish care

The radish is thinned out when two adult leaves appear, i.e. when it grows to 4-5 cm. Less traumatic for a plant is not to pull the row, but to pinch off excess plants.



With late radishes, I tried the marker planting method this year. I took a regular egg carton and attached it to the board.



Then it was only left to step on the board, and the holes were at an equal distance, in each I put a seed and sprinkled it.



I didn't have to pull the radishes. If the garden bed is large, then you can attach several boxes to a long board.

When thinning is done, I usually sprinkle the radishes carefully with my hands and select the weeds as needed. Radish is also very hygrophilous - in dry summer it must be watered abundantly every two days; to retain moisture, the aisles can be mulched with sawdust.


In addition to land availability, the size of a garden depends on the crops you want and the amount of time you can reasonably devote to maintaining it. So be careful to remember that for many crops, grooming needs to be constant, that treatment needs to be done every season, and that you need to worry about finding replacements when, for a variety of reasons, you need to leave for extended periods. In addition, some operations, such as grouting, can be tiring for the elderly or are not particularly suitable anyway.

Radish pests

Radish belongs to the cruciferous family, so it has the same pest as cabbage - a cruciferous flea, a small black bug that can eat up young tops so that the plant stops developing further. If such a pest has already been noticed on your beds, then it is better to cover the radish immediately after sowing with a material that allows light, moisture and air to pass through, and not remove the cover until the leaves are coarse. The flea bypassed my beds, but the snails constantly attacked the radishes in this wet summer - neither a high bed nor mulching with sand helped. I had to constantly collect gastropods.

Collection and storage of radishes

Radishes cannot be overexposed in the garden, the fruits are harvested as they ripen, otherwise they become too hard, voids form inside. I plant few radishes, so I have no such problems, but if, nevertheless, there are no people who want to taste a salad made from fresh root vegetables, I pull out all the ripe radishes, cut off the tops, cut the roots and store them in this form in the refrigerator in a plastic bag in the section for vegetables - 2-3 weeks my radish lay like this without problems, and it didn't stay longer in the refrigerator.

See also video