Site drainage is a system for removing and draining water from the ground using pipes, wells, trenches and other similar devices. In addition, drainage is a material that absorbs excess moisture from the soil when growing plants indoors.
The drainage device on the site is used for lands with high humidity, clay soil and an approximate groundwater level. Such properties of the land negatively affect the growth of trees and flowers, garden crops and other plants. In soil that is too clayey and oversaturated with moisture, they do not take root and simply die.
Excess moisture and the approach of groundwater to the surface of the earth raises the soil and leads to shrinkage of the dacha, bathhouse and outbuildings, flooding of basements and ground floors in the house. In addition, blind areas are destroyed, cracks appear on paths and other decorative elements. To avoid such problems, a drainage structure is used. Let's look at when such a system is needed and find out how to properly drain a site with your own hands.
When is garden drainage needed?
Before starting to install a system on a specific site, determine the type of soil. To do this, make a hole up to 60 centimeters deep, fill it with water and mark the time when the water completely goes into the ground. Drying in one day indicates porous soil; in two days, the soil has a dense, heavy structure.
Thus, the arrangement of the drainage system should be carried out under the following factors:
- The proximity of groundwater to the surface of the earth. The depth of water is 1.5 meters and above;
- Clay and loamy soil;
- Formation of puddles on the surface of the ground during heavy rain;
- Flat plot without slope;
- The site is located on a slope, in which case water flows from the upper levels to the surface during precipitation or melting;
- The location of the site is in a lowland or next to a body of water.
Drainage is not necessary for dry and sandy soil, but it is necessary for clay, forest and very wet soil. Today, there are several types of systems, which include backfill, closed or deep, open or surface drainage of the site. Let's look at the characteristics and arrangement of each type.
| View | Scheme | Peculiarities | Application |
| Open (superficial) | Open ditches are made along the perimeter with a slope without pipes, through which water flows into a drainage ditch common to several areas | Requires constant care and is traumatic | A simple and affordable method suitable for sloped areas and clay soil |
| Closed (deep) | Drainage pipes are laid into the ground, which drain excess moisture into the drainage well. | Does not interfere with the aesthetics of the land plot | Used for areas with close groundwater |
| Backfill | Along the perimeter, trenches are made on a slope without pipes, which are filled with broken bricks or crushed stone, and gravel is placed on top. The water goes into a drainage well or gutter | Requires an additional layer of filtration and regular cleaning, gets clogged quickly, low throughput | Suitable only for small areas or if the problem of flooding concerns only certain points of the territory |
To properly lay the drainage, you will need a diagram. The plan is drawn up taking into account the characteristics of the soil and groundwater, the layout of the garden plot and the calculation of the required building materials. For areas with high water levels over 1.5 meters, a closed or deep type is chosen. For clay and heavy soil - surface. Let's take a closer look at how to make drainage on a site with your own hands.
Arrangement open or surface drainage system- the easiest and most affordable method that does not require the use of pipes and financial costs. Along the perimeter of the site, ditches are dug with a slope towards the water receiver (common ditch) in accordance with the location plan. The depth of such a trench is approximately 0.7 meters, the width is 0.5 meters, and the angle of inclination is up to 30°. With this system, water runoff goes into a large ditch, which is made outside the garden and used for several areas.
Please note that a surface drainage system will spoil the appearance of the land. Decorative grates are often used to cover unattractive open ditches. In addition, you can make the design original and interesting by placing crushed stone and large stones on the bottom, and covering the top layer with colored small pebbles or decorative gravel. Thus, dry streams are obtained, the banks of which are decorated with greenery.
Deep drainage hidden from view and does not interfere with the aesthetics of the garden. It provides effective drainage of land with elevated groundwater levels. Pipes for drainage of the area are chosen with a diameter of 63 and 110 millimeters. A suitable pattern for a closed drainage system is a herringbone pattern, in which the side trenches are collected into one, leading to a catch basin (drainage well).
Trenches are dug with a slope of 7 centimeters towards the well. Please note that the denser the earth, the higher the pipes are laid. So, for sandy soil the depth of the ditch is about one meter, for loamy soil - 80, and for clay soil - 70. The bottom of the pits is covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone 20 centimeters high, and pipes are laid on top and assembled into a single system. After laying, the products are covered with geotextiles and then covered with layers of sand and crushed stone of 10-15 centimeters each. By the way, you can buy ready-made geotextile pipes.
Backfill type of drainage experts do not recommend installing it, since it has the lowest throughput and often gets clogged up quickly. In addition, such a system is suitable for a small area and local flooding problems. But if you decide to use this type, then the arrangement begins with digging ditches along the perimeter of the territory.
The trench is half filled with large crushed stone or broken bricks, and then gravel or other small material is laid. The top of the ditches is covered with soil. To prevent the trenches from filling quickly, an additional filter layer of geotextile is made.
Which drainage pipes to choose
In order for the system to work correctly and last as long as possible, you need to choose reliable drainage pipes. Today, ceramic, asbestos-cement and polymer products are distinguished. The first two types are rarely used today, as they are characterized by heavy weight, difficult and expensive installation, and a short service life of up to 20-30 years.
- Service life is 50-60 years;
- Light weight for quick and easy transportation and installation;
- Resistant to the negative effects of water and not subject to corrosion;
- High strength indicators due to uniform load distribution;
- The internal smooth surface does not allow dirt to accumulate inside and prevents clogging;
- Affordable price;
- Possibility to carry out installation yourself.
The most durable are two-layer structures. Please note that long products are more flexible than short ones. It is important that the surface is corrugated on the outside and smooth on the inside.
Arranging a drainage structure is a labor-intensive process that requires correct determination of the soil type and groundwater level. It is important to choose the right type of drainage and perform installation, otherwise the system will be ineffective. To avoid mistakes, turn to professionals! Experienced craftsmen of the MariSrub company will reliably and quickly install drainage on any type of site, select the necessary materials and, if necessary, install a drainage well!
High humidity in your area is fraught with harmful consequences: water suppresses the root system of plant crops, which provokes their diseases and subsequent death. Moreover, moisture washes away the foundation of the building and outbuildings, so the structures are flooded and begin to quickly collapse. Is it possible to avoid such problems? The best option to prevent them is to install drainage in the dacha area. This procedure is not so complicated that you need to hire professional builders - you can do it yourself. And in order for you to succeed, we invite you to learn more about the advantages and features of drainage and get acquainted with the simplest ways of arranging it.
Every summer resident invariably asks the same question: does his plot really need drainage? You can find the answer yourself - just evaluate your dacha area. Your garden is often overgrown with sedge, there are puddles in the area for a long time after rain, the ground dries out for a long time after watering or melting snowdrifts - the first signs that you cannot do without drainage. To further verify this, conduct a simple experiment: dig a hole 50-70 cm deep - if after a day it is full of water, proceed to arranging the system without hesitation.
Scheme of drainage arrangement on the site But there are four more conditions under which drainage is required:
- groundwater lies very high;
- the dacha stands on dense clay soil;
- the site is located on a pronounced slope or, conversely, in a lowland;
- Your area experiences heavy rainfall regularly.
As you can see, drainage is indispensable in almost all areas. So, if you want plants and trees to delight you with their growth, paths not to become deformed, and your dacha not to be flooded, start construction work.
Types of systems: surface and deep site drainage
When the question of the importance of drainage is closed, decide what kind of system you need. It can be of two types.
Superficial- the simplest drainage option. Its functional purpose is to drain water that falls on the land in the form of various precipitation, for example, rain or snow. This system works great on flat terrain without pronounced slopes. This drainage is essentially a system of ditches located along the entire perimeter of the site. Over time, water collected in ditches is either discharged into a special reservoir or simply evaporates. The surface system can be combined with traditional storm drainage.
Deep drainage Deep– closed drainage. Such a system is needed if your site:
- located on uneven terrain;
- located on clay soil;
- has high groundwater;
- for any other reason is difficult to operate.
Deep drainage makes it possible to effectively protect not only vegetable and garden crops from increased moisture, but also the dacha itself and all utility rooms.
Advice. Since installing a deep drainage system requires serious ground work, it is recommended to do it before you start planting the main part of the crops. An even more optimal option, if possible, is to arrange drainage in parallel with laying the foundation.
Preparatory work
Drainage is an engineering structure that is an extensive system of trenches and pipes. All its elements are interconnected and scattered, as a rule, along the entire perimeter of the site. Based on the above features, installation work cannot begin without a clear design of the drainage system.
The project must indicate the following points: location of all drainage trenches, water flow, diagram of vertical drainage sections, location of wells, depth of drains. It is also important to determine the dimensions of all components of the system and their slope relative to the top soil. Such a detailed project plan will give you the opportunity to quickly navigate the location of all elements of the drainage system during its arrangement, that is, it will simply make your work easier.
Laying drainage pipes An important component of pre-construction procedures is the preparation of a set of tools and consumables that are necessary for installation work:
- perforated pipes with a diameter of 75-100 mm;
- parts for connecting pipes - couplings and fittings;
- drainage wells;
- hacksaw;
- tamping tool;
- rail;
- building level;
- geotextile for drainage;
- crushed stone;
- sand;
- shovel;
- wheelbarrow for transporting earth and supplying building materials.
Construction of a surface drainage system
Performing this type of drainage is technically a simple process.
- Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the dacha area: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Its slope should be at least 25-30 degrees towards the water drainage.
- Dig auxiliary ditches at the same angle.
- Lead the trench and ditches to a single drainage well.
Advice. To make sure your trench is working, do a simple test: pour water into the trench and see if it flows in the right direction, that is, towards the well. If you notice deviations, be sure to adjust the angle of the trench walls, otherwise the system will not be able to fully perform its functions.
- Place drainage geotextiles in the finished trenches.
- Fill the trenches with various sizes of crushed stone on the geofabric: two-thirds - large grains, and one-third - small grains.
- Place turf on a layer of fine crushed stone.
Construction of a surface drainage system In the second case, the continuation of drainage construction after digging a trench looks like this:
- Prepare plastic drainage trays.
- Place a layer of sand no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trench. Compact it well using a manual trench.
- Place plastic trays in the trench.
- Install sand traps.
- Mount decorative grilles on the trays - they will protect the drainage from debris and leaves, and also give it a more attractive appearance.
Deep drainage on clay soils and other difficult terrain
The algorithm for constructing a deep system in difficult areas is as follows:
As you can see, there is nothing unrealistic about installing a drainage system at a summer cottage, so don’t be afraid to take on such work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the required type of drainage and follow the rules for its installation. And don’t forget that by making an effort just once, you can protect yourself from a lot of problems in the future, namely, from the death of vegetable and garden crops and the flooding of your own dacha.
If the purchased country plot is located on a peat bog, its owners will have to carry out a number of works to improve the soil on it. The land in such places, unfortunately, cannot be considered too suitable for growing various types of agricultural crops. The soil in peatlands contains very little oxygen, which replaces methane. Also, such areas in spring and autumn turn into a real swamp due to flooding. How to drain peat land if necessary - we’ll talk about this later in the article.
Ways to improve
In some cases, the problem of swampy land can be solved in a very simple way - by adding a certain amount of soil brought from outside. But, of course, this technique can only be used when water is collected on the site due to the fact that it is located in a lowland and has a relatively small size. In all other cases, water must be drained from the allotment.
The answer to the question of how to drain an area, in this case, can be two technologies:
superficial;
with pipe laying.
The first method is considered the simplest. It will be absolutely easy to do open drainage in a wetland with your own hands. But by using pipes, you can create a more efficient drainage system.
Drainage using ditches
This method is a good answer to the question of how to drain a swamp on a peat bog. The advantage of this method, among other things, is that when using it, owners will not have to spend a penny on draining water from the site. For drainage in this case, along the edge of the plot on the side that is located below the others, a ditch about 50 cm wide and at least 1 m deep is dug.
If there is a slightly higher, also marshy neighboring area nearby, a trench should be made on the border with it. This will block access to water from someone else's plot.
Subsequently, during the implementation of various types of channels on the site, it will be necessary to fill with all kinds of construction and garden waste. This could be, for example, stones, broken bricks, weeds, etc.
Advantages of using pipes
The open method of draining water through ditches is simple and inexpensive. However, this technique is used only in areas that are not very wet. In all other cases, it is advisable to equip the plots with full-fledged drainage systems using perforated pipes.
The answer to the question of how to drain a swamp in a garden, this technology in most cases is simply ideal. The advantages of such outlet networks, among other things, include:
more uniform and rapid regulation of water balance in the soil;
possibility of covering absolutely the entire area of the site.
When using this method, the hoses pass underground. Thanks to this, the usable area of the site is not reduced. When growing garden crops on such an allotment, beds can also be made directly above the pipes.
How to set up a closed system
In this case, ditches are also first dug on the site to drain water. In this case, the main trench is located around the perimeter of the plot. Next, ditches are dug across the area of the site.
When using this drainage method, a waterproofing agent is placed at the bottom of dug trenches - a thick film or roofing material. Next, pour a layer of medium-sized crushed stone or pebbles into the ditches. Perforated pipes are laid on top. To prevent the holes of such drainage lines from becoming clogged in the future, they are pre-wrapped with geotextiles.
Connect pipes at the points of convergence or intersection of ditches using tees or elbow fittings. Above these network elements, inspection wells made of plastic or concrete must be installed. If there are such additions in the system, in the future it will be very easy to remove blockages that appear in the lines and clean them from accumulated sludge.
What you need to know
Of course, in order for the water to subsequently leave the area through the pipes by gravity, they must be laid at a slope. Otherwise, it will not be possible to drain the plot. Unfortunately, it is impossible to install drainage network lines at too great a slope. In this case, the pipes will subsequently silt very quickly. It is also not worth making the slope of the drainage channels very small. Otherwise, the system will subsequently work ineffectively.
In most cases, when installing garden wastewater networks, pipes are laid at an angle of 0.5 to 3 cm per linear meter. There is no need to deviate from these parameters up or down.
Reception well
Thus, we found out how to drain the area using pipes. But where can you put the excess water itself? You can drain it from the site, if it is located on the outskirts, simply beyond its aisles - into some ravine, stream or pond. But if there are neighboring plots next to the wet garden, a special well will have to be installed to receive wastewater. If desired, such a container can be built in a remote area. After all, the water collected during drainage can subsequently be used to water the same beds.
Reception wells are installed at the lowest point of a suburban area using the following technology:
a hole is dug in the ground into which the main drainage trench is inserted;
The bottom and walls of the pit are concreted with a layer of 5-10 cm.
Of course, when pouring concrete structures of a well, holes should be provided for installing pipes.
Instead of a concrete structure, a plastic one can be used when arranging a drainage system. It will be easy to purchase such a container from companies specializing in the supply of equipment for drainage systems.
Reception pond
In most cases, owners of vegetable gardens on peat bogs build, of course, a well for water drainage. But instead, if you wish, you can make an artificial pond on the site - a beautiful decorative pond. In this case, a pit is also first dug in the ground, but wider.
The bottom and walls of the pit for arrangement on the site of an artificial reservoir are thoroughly cleaned of roots and stones. Next, the pit is lined with durable waterproofing material - preferably a thick film. Drainage pipes are led into the pond through holes in the film. You can camouflage them at the bottom, for example, with beautiful stones or some aquatic plants. In summer, it will be possible to release unpretentious fish from the aquarium into this reservoir. Spectacular marsh plants are usually planted around the pond.
Main difficulty
In principle, as you might have noticed, the answer to the question of how to drain an area of water with your own hands is quite simple. The most difficult task in this case will most likely be physically difficult excavation work. After all, there are actually a lot of ditches that will have to be dug on the site. However, in order for such a system to work as efficiently as possible, trenches on the site, of course, should first of all be in the right places.
It is best, of course, to entrust the project of arranging the drainage system of a swampy plot to a specialist. A professional will be able to take into account all the nuances of the relief of a given area. However, drainage system projects in suburban areas are, unfortunately, quite expensive. If you don’t have the money to order a pipe laying plan, you can try to develop it yourself. To find out where the best place to dig drainage trenches is, you will have to wait until the first heavy rain. By observing the flows flowing along the ground, it will be possible to quite accurately determine the optimal location of the trenches.
How to drain a swamp: using moisture-loving plants
Of course, in most cases, draining a wetland can only be done in drastic ways - by constructing ditches or laying pipes. But as an additional measure, such a garden should also include plants that draw a lot of water from the ground. These could be, for example, willows, birches or maples. Such trees, since they are significant in height, are, of course, usually planted on the northern side of the plot. Otherwise, in the future they will block the plantings, which, in turn, can easily lead to a decrease in the yield of garden and vegetable crops.
The high groundwater level in the area can also be reduced with the help of shrubs. For example, hawthorn, rosehip, bladderwort, and shadberry can take a lot of water from the soil. Such plants can be planted around the perimeter of the site to create a hedge.
Methane in soil
Of course, after drainage by open drainage or by laying pipes, the soil on the site in any case will become more suitable in composition for growing vegetable and garden crops. But in order to further improve its quality, site owners will have to:
sprinkle a thin layer of a mixture of clay and sand over the area;
carefully dig up the plot using a shovel or, preferably, a motor cultivator.
Of course, a very good solution would be to scatter manure mixed with sawdust around the site before digging, in addition to clay and sand. This will not only improve the structure of the soil, but also make it more fertile and nutritious. Adding various types of mineral fertilizers to the soil will also make it more suitable for growing vegetable and garden plants.
Pros of peat bogs
So, we found out how to drain a plot of water with our own hands and improve the soil on it. Such an allotment can, of course, cause a lot of trouble for its owner. However, peat bogs, in comparison with other types of soil, also have their advantages. For example, in such areas, plants usually tolerate winters much better. The soil on peat bogs freezes slowly, in thin layers. At the same time, the soil on such plots never freezes too deeply. So on such a plot after draining it, you can plant, for example, heat-loving roses, apricots, etc.
The presence of water is the main condition for the growth of almost all plants, including garden crops. But if there is a lot of water, then this is a real disaster. This is familiar to many owners of summer cottages and country houses. And you can’t put up with this: in a wetland, not only will flowers and trees in the garden very quickly disappear, nothing will grow in the garden, but buildings will soon begin to suffer. The fact is that in a muddy mess, the foundation of the building will begin to move apart, sink deeper, and over time, cracks will appear on the walls, which will increase after each prolonged rain. A sad prospect. But no owner will expect such unpleasant consequences, especially since there is a way out - you can drain the area.
Drainage is a whole system designed to ensure the outflow of surface water from a site. But before you start arranging it, you need to take into account the following factors:
- Terrain.
- The level at which ground water is located.
- Amount of precipitation.
- Communication plan.
- Placement (if any) of a cellar, basement or other buried buildings.
- Structure, composition of the soil.
- The presence of shrubs, trees and their number.
Stagnation of water on the site seriously threatens the integrity of buildings Now all that remains is to choose the system option that is suitable for the site.
Types of systems
There are two ways to drain the soil - by arranging deep or surface drainage. Although both options are designed to remove excess moisture, their installation and operation are completely different.
Thus, the main purpose of surface drainage is to remove water from the top layer of soil that collects after floods, rain and accumulates near the building, terrace, paths and other objects on the site.
Surface drainage
To dry the surface layers, you can arrange a linear or point system design. When constructing point drainage, water intakes are installed where water occupies small areas. This:
- various natural-type recesses;
- lower parts of terraces;
- door zones;
- entry;
- near drains.
The design of the point system is so simple that you do not need to create a circuit to make it. To equip the structure, it is necessary to prepare storm water inlets, water conduits, storm flaps, sediment basins, and drains.
Surface drainage To ensure that fertile soil from areas that have a slope of more than three degrees is not washed away, it is necessary to install a stormwater system. It is also necessary in the following cases:
- When the water washes away the path.
- To drain the area where the entrance to the garage is located.
- When there are frequent, long rains and it is necessary to drain a large volume of water from the foundations of structures.
Linear drainage
This is the name of a system of gutters buried in the soil. To cover the gutters, removable grilles made of metal or plastic material are used.
The main condition is that gutters must be laid on a slope so that water masses can move by gravity. Moving along the gutter, moisture enters the sand trap. This element is the simplest filter from which water moves through water pipes into the storm sewer.
Linear drainage To build a linear drainage, you need to first plan its placement and prepare for installation. In addition, it is necessary to equip a concrete base for laying all elements of the system. If there is a need to make the catchment area larger, the slope can be additionally concreted.
Attention! To improve drainage efficiency, it is necessary to combine linear and point structures in one area. Then volumes of water, even after heavy floods and rainstorms, will be drained from the soil and will not be able to cause harm to buildings or plants.
Deep drainage
This is the name of a system of underground drainage channels. Excess water masses from the site move along them. To collect them, collectors or drainage wells are installed.
Depending on how groundwater is collected, the designs are:
- Vertical.
- Horizontal.
- Combined (combine both previous options).
Vertical structures are built like ribbed wells. They are located in aquifers. Filtering and pumping units are placed inside the wells. Because of this, such systems are considered engineering structures that require constant maintenance. Therefore, vertical drainage is rarely used in private areas. For the same reason, combined structures are not built so often.
Deep drainage The simplest and most affordable horizontal drainage. And not the superficial type, but the deep type. The main elements for its arrangement are drains. These are perforated pipes designed for laying on crushed stone fill in prepared ditches. Previously, asbestos-cement products were used for this purpose, but they turned out to be harmful to the environment and were replaced with plastic ones.
Advice. Today, PVC pipes are not ordinary, smooth, but corrugated. Such products are less labor-intensive to install and cost less.
To prevent sand and soil from getting inside the pipes through the holes, they are wrapped in a special material. This is geotextile or coconut fiber material. The choice of material depends on the type of soil. If it is loamy or sandy, you can use geotextiles; for other types of soil, material made from coconut fibers is suitable. Non-woven fabric, dormite and other soft materials are used as geotextiles, but hard ones should not be used - they do not allow moisture to pass through well.
Work that can be done with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:
- Draw up a laying diagram, which will indicate the location of the drainage well.
- Taking into account the scheme, dig ditches.
- Lay sand on the bottom in a layer of 10-15 cm, and then lay geotextiles. There should be enough of it to cover the drains.
- Lay the drains so that they are located on a slope and lead to the collector.
- Connect individual elements with tees or crosses.
- Cover the drains and pour crushed stone on top, and then a layer of earth.
It is necessary to ensure further discharge of water from the collector. Such a place can be the nearest ditch, ravine, and, if possible, the central storm system.
Attention! When laying drains, it is necessary to backfill using crushed stone. For this, it is best to take crushed stone with a fraction ranging in size from 2 to 6 cm. Granite or river crushed stone is suitable, but limestone should not be used: it will be washed out during operation and salinization of the soil will certainly occur.
Drainage system maintenance
Although both deep and surface systems, if properly installed, do not require frequent maintenance, it is still necessary:
Don't forget to clean your drainage system regularly - Inspect wells and sewers regularly. If necessary, clean them.
- To remove deposits from the walls of drainage pipes, you need to thoroughly flush them. This should not be done often - once every 8-10 years.
To design and install drainage on a site, you must watch a video with instructional materials on the specifics of performing the work. If everything is done correctly, the drainage will work for more than half a century, ensuring that excess moisture is removed from the site all this time.
Site drainage: video
One of the main problems of any plot of land is excess moisture in the soil. As a result, such unpleasant processes are observed as stagnation of water in the area, flooding of the basement, erosion of the soil, rotting of the roots of trees and shrubs, and premature destruction of the foundations of buildings. You can cope with excess moisture by arranging drainage on the site with your own hands. According to all the rules, the constructed drainage system eliminates most of the problems associated with excess soil moisture.
A drainage system can be created on any site. It consists of pipes or channels, wells and system protection elements located on the site. Such a system is designed to collect infiltrated and ground moisture, as well as to divert it to a specific place or outside the site.
Installing drainage on a site with your own hands is necessary in the following cases:
- swamping of the area. The water entering the soil surface does not have time to be absorbed into the ground, as a result of which puddles appear, and the soil itself loses its porous structure. This is especially true for clay soils;
- if dampness or flooding occurs in the basement of the house or in the basement;
- if the foundation and walls of the building begin to become covered with cracks resulting from soil heaving;
- if window or door openings are warped;
- washing out of soil from under paths and paved areas;
- if the site is on a hillside or in a lowland.
Tip: Creating a drainage system is very desirable if the groundwater in your area is at a depth of 1.5 m or less.
Types of drainage systems
Depending on the design and degree of deepening of the system elements, there are two types of drainage systems:
1. Surface drainage. It is characterized by the location on the site of a network of canals that remove moisture that falls in the form of precipitation. Do-it-yourself surface drainage of a site can be made in two versions:
2. Deep drainage. Such a structure is a system of perforated pipelines laid at a certain depth, below the soil level. Do-it-yourself deep drainage on the site copes well with drainage on clay soils, as well as in the presence of surface groundwater.
Preparing a drainage system project
When preparing a drainage scheme for a site, several nuances should be taken into account, since the performance and durability of the drainage system depend on a correctly completed project.
Pay attention to the following points:
- laying the drainage system is always done last, after completion of rough construction work. Construction equipment located on the site can damage surface drainage elements;
- all other communications must be marked on the project to align them with the drainage system;
- you need to know the level of groundwater in your area;
- study the composition and structure of the soil on the site at different depths;
- the project must take into account the presence of structures buried in the ground on the site. This could be the ground floor of a house, a cellar, a basement, a well;
- take into account the terrain features;
- Do-it-yourself drainage of a garden plot should be carried out taking into account the location of shrubs and trees;
- Consider the amount of precipitation that applies to your area.
What is needed for open and closed drainage
Proper drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands involves the use of certain types of building materials. Different drainage systems will require different components.
1. To create surface drainage, you may need (depending on the type):
- storm water inlets;
- polymer concrete/polymer sand or through which water will flow to the designated places;
- sand traps that serve to prevent various debris from entering the system;
- metal or plastic gratings that will cover the drainage trays;
- sand from which the underlying cushion for the gutters will be made and cement for fixing them.
2. For the deep system you will need to purchase:
- perforated pipes in which water will collect. It is best to use polymer products. If there are no holes in them, then they are drilled independently. The diameter of the pipes should not be less than 10 cm;
- , which will serve as a filter element;
- fittings and couplings for connecting pipes into a single system;
- inspection wells, thanks to which it will be possible to inspect the system and clean it;
- collector wells in which drained water will accumulate;
- a pump through which water will be pumped out from catchment wells, if they are planned to be built;
- sand for arranging the underlying layer;
- crushed stone for backfilling and pre-filtration of water.
Note: If you have a shortage of crushed stone, then it is quite acceptable to use gravel. The main condition is that individual stones should not be more than 4 cm in diameter.
Manufacturing of surface drainage system
Before you do the drainage of the site with your own hands, you need to draw up a diagram of the placement of all drainage channels. The location of the main (main) channels that go to the collector well or spillway is indicated. In addition, additional channels are marked that drain water from individual places where it accumulates. Additional channels have a slope towards the main channels, connecting with them.
- Trenches are dug strictly according to the scheme. Their depth is 50-70 cm, and their width should be about 40-50 cm. Pay attention to the slope of the trench walls. They should be beveled at an angle of about 25 degrees. That is, they are wider at the top;
- The bottom of the trenches is compacted.
Tip: Main channels are made wider, since the flow of water collected from additional channels will pass through them.
Backfill drainage
- a layer of geotextile is laid in the trenches, after which the trenches are filled with crushed stone. The bottom layer of crushed stone should have larger fractions. The geotextile is wrapped so that soil particles do not fall into the crushed stone layer;
- earth is poured on top of such a backfill or turf is laid.
Tray drainage
- trenches are also dug, but of less depth;
- sand is poured into the bottom of the trenches in a layer of 10 cm;
- if desired, crushed stone can be poured on top of the sand;
- cement mortar is poured onto the bottom and walls of the trench;
- trays and sand traps are installed;
- the trays are covered with protective grilles on top.
Installation of deep drainage
Such a system is manufactured with special care, since correcting any defects will be problematic. Do-it-yourself deep drainage of a site is considered a complex and labor-intensive operation.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
- a plan for laying drainage lines is drawn;
- trenches are dug 50 cm wide and 80-100 cm deep. The slope of the trenches is ensured at about 3 degrees towards the drain;
- the bottom of the trenches is covered with sand (about 10 cm), which is compacted;
- geotextiles are laid on top of the sand so that its ends rise above the soil level;
- Crushed stone is poured inside the geotextile layer. Layer thickness - about 20 cm;
- perforated pipes are laid on crushed stone;
- sections of pipes are connected to each other;
- a collector well is being prepared. It is located at the lowest point of the site;
- the pipes are led into a drain well, from which water will be pumped out or drained to a lower level;
- laid pipes are covered with crushed stone on top. It should not reach the soil level;
- the geotextile is wrapped, as a result of which the pipe and the crushed stone around it end up in a “cocoon”;
- From above, the entire structure is covered with soil.
The drainage system will transform your site, rid it of excess moisture, and restore the natural state of the soil.
Video
How to properly make drainage on a site with your own hands, watch the video. It considers the option of deep rather than open drainage.
