Climbing roses care and growing support. Climbing rose - queen of the garden: cultivation and care

Climbing roses are considered one of the most popular plants for vertical gardening. They are indispensable in landscape design, perfectly decorating any architectural buildings. Climbing varieties entwine arches, arbors, lattice structures and columns. Most often, such flowers are grown in areas where a mild and warm climate prevails. In regions with cold weather, roses also grow, but require additional insulation for the winter.

Getting to know the climbing rose - which variety to choose?

Choosing a seedling for planting is an important stage in growing roses in your garden. After all, the future development of the plant depends on the quality of the shoot. Flowers go on sale in February, but such an early purchase often leads to disappointment. Inexperienced gardeners do not cope with storing the shoot, since it must be properly maintained until planting.

Flower growers advise choosing a dormant seedling. Then it is wrapped in paper or placed in a bag and sent to the zero chamber of the refrigerator. In such conditions, he will safely wait for his time.

If the first signs of growth are visible on a young plant, it is stored in the same way. But when the seedling begins to develop stepsons and leaves, it urgently needs to be planted in a pot for growing, watered and sprayed. Before planting in open ground, the bush is stored in a cool, lighted room.

Climbing roses are a rather capricious garden crop. To quickly understand their properties and characteristics, flowers are divided into several groups. You can familiarize yourself with them in the following classification:

1. 1. True climbing roses with flexible arched stems. In length they reach from 1.5 to 5 meters, depending on the variety. The stepsons are bright green in color, the spines are curved and thin. The flowers have a variety of shades, are double and semi-double in shape, most often small in size. Flowering is abundant, the buds are collected in dense inflorescences and do not fade for a month. They bloom in early June. Representatives of this species are winter-hardy and survive frosts under light shelter.
2. 2. The second group was developed as a result of crossing with remontant, tea and hybrid tea varieties. They are usually called climbing ones. The resulting plants are characterized by fast growth and long shoots that reach 4 meters. Roses have large flowers, collected in loose panicles. The main features are the ability to re-bloom, resistance to cold and many diseases.
3. 3. The third group, known as climbers, was bred through mutations from bush roses with large buds. The varieties are characterized by strong growth, and their flowering time comes a little later. The buds develop large and have a bright, rich hue.

Planting climbing roses on the site - secrets for beginners

Climbing roses are planted in both autumn and spring. Although you should stick to the first option. In the autumn, the seedlings harden and begin to grow more actively. And bushes planted in spring lag behind in development by several weeks.

Autumn planting occurs from mid-September to mid-October. This is the most favorable time: the heat has passed, but the cold is still far away. Such seedlings manage to take root before the first frost.

This method of landing is risky for northern regions, for example, Siberia. It is more suitable for the Moscow region and the Middle Zone. During severe winters, young plants die immediately. If the gardener is not sure whether his flowers will be able to survive the winter, he should plant the bush in April-May.

For a place to plant seedlings, choose sunlit areas; in extreme cases, semi-dark corners of the territory are suitable. Excess moisture is poorly tolerated by this crop, so growing it on heavy clay soil with nearby groundwater is not recommended.

Representatives of the Pink family take root well in fertile, loose soil. The ideal condition would be a plot with a slight slope to the south.

How to carry out preparatory work?

For planting, samples with developed roots or already grafted are taken. A strong bush should have 2-3 woody stepsons. Healthy bark on the trunk and branches is green and undamaged. Also, high-quality samples are distinguished by the presence of many white small roots.

Purchased specimens are left in water for several hours to absorb moisture. In spring, a rose with an open rhizome is placed in a container with a root formation stimulator (for example, Kornevin, Kornerost). The plant needs to stay in this solution for 24 hours.

Before directly burying the bush in the ground, it is trimmed a little. Remove damaged roots and slightly shorten old long shoots (by 5–10 cm). If the seedling is purchased with a closed root system, that is, in a container, then it is not pruned. But the earthen lump, in which thin whitish roots are visible, is still soaked in water.

In order for the flowering of climbing plants to be lush, the correct soil is selected for them; ideally, it should be loamy and well loosened. If the land on the site does not meet these parameters, it is improved.

Clay soil is diluted with sand, and a small amount of clay is added to sandy soil. Fertility from such actions will not increase, but will improve the permeability of moisture and air. The meager substrate is enriched with chernozem and vermicompost. The planting hole is filled with this mixture to 2/3 of its volume in order to freely place the rhizome.

The top layer of soil is fertilized with rotted manure or compost (5 kg) and wood ash (1 tbsp.). Sometimes the rose is fed with complex potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, 15 g for one sample. Nitrogen substances are introduced into the soil only during spring planting (calculated at 20 g for one bush).

The soil is often enriched with beneficial microorganisms. They are able to process those substances that are poorly absorbed by roses, turning them into accessible ones. Preparations containing such bacteria are sold in specialized stores.

Growing technology and principles of caring for seedlings

Bushes with dormant buds are planted in open ground when its temperature reaches 10–12 degrees. If planting work is carried out in the spring, then the time of planting is determined by the condition of the buds on the trees. Bare-rooted specimens are planted before they bloom. Container samples are placed in the ground after the eyes open.

The planting site is prepared in advance, replacing unfavorable soil with a special mixture, which consists of the following components:

• leaf soil;
• peat;
• rotted manure;
• turf land;
• sand.

All ingredients are mixed in a ratio of 2:1:1:1:1 and the hole is filled with them. Processing depth is at least 70 cm. As a result of preparation, the hole for the seedling is filled with layers:

• the lower area is filled with drainage (pebbles, crushed stone, broken bricks);
• medium level – a mixture of nutrients;
• the upper layer is garden soil.

If the gardener makes a single planting, the size of the hole is 60 cm in height and the same in width. In groups, the distance between representatives of vigorous varieties is 2 m, for the rest the distance is reduced - 1.5 m. The soil throughout the entire site is cultivated by double digging. Virgin lands are dug up three times.

When all the preparatory work has been done, it’s time to place the bush in a new location. Planting is carried out in the following sequence:

• check the size of the hole, it should be wide and deep enough;
• pour a mound of pre-planting soil mixture;
• the roots are distributed along the slope of the mound;
• sprinkle with earthen mixture, dividing it evenly between the rhizomes;
• shake the plant up and down;
• the soil is compacted, eliminating voids, and filled to the very edge.

The grafting site is immersed 5 cm in the ground; it cannot be above this level. Water the bush abundantly with water and add a little soil. When the young branches grow 2–3 cm, the rose is unplanted.

A bush that is planted near a wall has its roots in the opposite direction from it. This is also done when planting a flower near a support in the form of trellises, arches or columns.

The specimen that was in the container is filled with water and removed from the packaging. Broken shoots are removed. During transplantation, the earthen lump is left intact, placing the rose in the hole along with it. If leaves have formed on the seedling, then it is not spudded.

The long stems of a climbing flower initially require partial shading and shelter from drafts. After the buds open, the bush begins to be hardened by the sun and wind, temporarily removing the cover. After a few days it is completely removed.

We learn to care for flowers - we prune, prevent diseases and cover them for the winter

Caring for representatives of the Pink family during their cultivation consists of regular watering, fertilizing, pruning and shelter during the cold season.

To prepare a rose for winter, it is customary to cover it. For this purpose, two methods are used:

1. 1. With the air-dry method, the branches of the rose are bent to the ground, a frame is erected over them and plastic film is stretched. Non-woven fabric is placed on top. With the onset of spring, the snow melts from the greenhouse and it becomes hot inside. To prevent the flowers from rotting and getting sick, the shelter is ventilated.
2. 2. The second method is more simplified. The branches are bent and immediately covered with non-woven material in two layers. Additionally insulated with spruce branches. Such a structure prevents the plant from withering away during a thaw. However, if the winter is wet, the seal becomes wet. When it comes into contact with the stems, it causes controversy.

In preparation for wintering, the leaves on the bushes are cut off so that they do not become a source of infectious disease. Such work begins in September and is completed before the construction of greenhouses (until November). They remove the shelter when frosts below -7 degrees are not expected outside.

Climbing roses are cared for by annual pruning. There are two types of such procedures:

• rejuvenating (applied to old bushes, allows you to get rid of woody branches that do not produce new shoots);
• formative (carried out every year several times per season).

The most important time for pruning is spring. When the plant wakes up, the compacted stepsons are straightened, cutting off the blackened shoots to a clean cloth. The cut areas are treated with brilliant green or garden varnish. Bushes affected by fungal infections and mold are sprayed with copper sulfate.

The plant is pruned again after the first flowering, removing faded inflorescences and buds. If the rose is predisposed to a second bloom, cut off some of the shoots. This will save it from overgrowing and allow it to bloom fully.

Climbing roses are indispensable when creating vertical gardening. Arches and gazebos decorated with this variety of roses look gorgeous. But in order for a climbing rose to decorate the area with its appearance, you need to know the peculiarities of its planting and properly care for it. After all, mistakes during planting and care will not only spoil the appearance of the shrub, but can also lead to its death.

Description of climbing roses

As the name and description of climbing roses suggest, these plants have long shoots, lashes up to 5 meters or more, which do not have their own entwining organs such as tendrils. Therefore, they need an auxiliary device in the form of a frame.

These plants are divided into two groups: once-blooming and repeat-blooming. The first are strongly growing climbing vines with very lush and abundant flowering. Their flowers are small, collected in heavy clusters. The varieties of these roses belong to the rambler group. They bloom in June for a month. The inflorescences are large, consisting of 30-40 small flowers, appearing only on last year's shoots. The bushes retain their delicate greenery until late autumn. The climber group includes varieties of large-flowered climbing roses obtained from crossing Rambler roses with floribunda and hybrid tea roses. They have thicker shoots up to 3.5 m long and bloom on the shoots of the current year continuously until late autumn, but the flowering is not so abundant.

Repeatedly or continuously flowering climbing roses come in many varieties with large or small flowers, fragrant or not, drooping or upward-looking.

Choosing a place to plant a climbing rose

The most important point when planting climbing roses is to choose the right place; it should be sunny and well ventilated, and there should be free space nearby to shelter the roses for the winter. Under no circumstances should climbing roses be planted in drafts and wetlands, or in places where roses previously grew.

It is better if the site has a slight slope, this will protect the soil from stagnation of rainwater and excess moisture. If the location is chosen near the wall, then the planting hole is dug at a distance of 50-60 cm from the wall so that the root system does not dry out.

And plants of other species are planted at a distance of at least 50 cm from the climbing rose bush. After planting, the stems of climbing roses are attached to a support.

Soil for planting climbing roses

Roses are very sensitive to excess moisture in the soil. Stagnation of rain and especially spring melt water is completely unacceptable for them.

Roses grow best on fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loams. Heavy clay and light sandy soils are not suitable for them. Before planting roses, sand is first added to the clay soils of the garden, and clay to the sandy soils. It is better to take clay from the upper layers of the soil and, before adding it to the soil, it is advisable to keep the clay in stacks or heaps for at least 12 months. In order for the clay to quickly acquire a crumbly structure and the desired chemical composition, it is mixed with lime, and in the warm and dry season it is shoveled several times.

The addition of clay or sand regulates only the air permeability and water-holding capacity of the soil. To grow strong, highly decorative climbing roses, you need sufficiently fertile, humus-rich soil. They improve soil fertility by introducing humus and humus into them. Together with organic fertilizers, long-acting phosphorus fertilizers (for example, bone meal) and pure cultures of soil bacteria are added to the soil, which convert substances inaccessible to plant nutrition into compounds that are assimilated by them (for example, phosphorobacterin).

At the place where roses are planted, the top turf layer of soil is removed and placed aside. Podzol is removed from the site or used to construct permanent paths. The infertile layer of soil is used to level the area. Sand or clay, lime, humus, humus, peat and phosphorus fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the exposed subsoil. Deep digging is being carried out on the site. They do this at the end of summer.

In the spring of next year, the soil is loosened. And if the site has heavy, clayey soils, then it is dug up again so that the improving additives are evenly distributed in the subsoil. The top layer of soil is returned to the leveled area where roses are planted, adding fertilizer, sand or clay. After digging to a depth of 20-25 cm, the area is loosened.

In amateur gardening, folk techniques and signs are used to determine the amount and nature of soil-improving additives. The mechanical composition of the soil is determined by rolling it between the palms. The acidity of the soil of a site is determined by the weeds growing on it.

Nutrients are most fully absorbed by roses in neutral soils (pH 6.5). Add lime to acidic soil, and high-moor peat to alkaline soil.

Preparing a climbing rose seedling for planting

Preparing a seedling before planting in the spring consists of a thorough inspection of the root system - you need to get rid of broken and rotten roots, then carry out a series of manipulations:

• Treat sections of individual parts of the rhizome with crushed charcoal, which will protect the plant from rotting of the resulting wounds;
• make a so-called chatterbox with your own hands: mix clay, fresh manure (a tenth of the total composition) with 3 phosphorobacterin tablets, pour 0.5 liters. water and measure 9.5 liters. the resulting mash;
• in the absence of cow manure, add 1 tablet of heteroauxin based on the sufficiency of 10 liters. solution.

Planting seedlings in the spring involves pruning the buds; on strong stems, 2 formed buds are left, on weak stems, the presence of one is sufficient.

How to plant climbing roses in spring correctly? First you need to prepare a hole for the seedling, the depth of which should reach approximately 60-65 centimeters. After this, we begin to thoroughly examine and process the seedlings. This procedure is performed as follows:

• cut off roots that were damaged during transportation;
• shorten too long roots. Otherwise, they may break already in the hole and begin to rot;
• soak the seedlings in specially designed nutrient solutions. But don’t get carried away so as not to overfeed the plant;
• The seedling is extremely carefully (so as not to break the roots) lowered into the soil by about 8 centimeters. After this, it can be carefully buried, for which half of the extracted soil is enough.

When planting climbing roses in the spring, it should be taken into account that the plants will develop more slowly than when planted in the fall. The average developmental delay is 10-14 days. In addition, roses will require much more care and attention.

Planting climbing roses in the ground in spring does not require preparing large areas. Under favorable conditions, climbing roses develop quickly. The bushes will delight you with flowering next year if the roses were planted in the ground in the spring. When using these flowers as a decorative component of a building, planting is done at a distance of 0.5 m from it. The layout of climbing roses is 50 x 50 cm. A fertile earth mixture with the addition of humus is poured onto the bottom of the dug hole. Do I need to water the plant when planting it in the spring? Many experienced gardeners are inclined to answer in the negative, which is due to the high moisture content in the soil after the snow melts. But if the winter was dry, it is still better to water the roses. After planting, water abundantly and shorten the branches to 20 cm. The roots of the plant should be free in the hole. They are sprinkled with a nutritious soil mixture, and the soil is compacted. The last stage of planting a rose in the spring is its hilling. Young plant seedlings are very sensitive to high temperatures and direct sunlight, so it is better to sprinkle them with soil to a height of about 25 centimeters. The top of the bush is covered with spunbond, pine needles or some translucent materials. Every day the shelter is raised for a few minutes to harden the seedlings. Gradually, the ventilation time is increased, and after the threat of frost has passed, it is completely removed.

After removing the cover, the seedlings are mulched with any material at hand. This will protect the plants from moisture loss and weed growth.

When growing with a trellis, the pit is placed at a distance of 20 cm from it. Planting climbing roses in the ground in spring is done in such a way that the grafting site is located 5 cm below the level of the flowerbed. The root system of the seedling is placed obliquely to the support. When arranging a trellis near the house, the distance from the wall is at least 10 cm. This will ensure sufficient air flow, as well as more comfortable care for the plant.

When planting bushes, step back between them in a furrow from 0.5 to 1 m, between the rows you need to lay at least 1 m. If you plan to decorate a gazebo or fence with a climbing rose, measure 0.35-0.5 m from the blind area.

Planting a rose is not particularly troublesome. But don’t lose sight of a few important rules. The main thing is to take your time!

Garden ensembles created with the help of climbing roses are particularly elegant, but to achieve a good result, you need the right approach to growing them. We will tell you about the secrets of planting and caring for this fashionable and beautiful plant.

About the varieties and varieties of climbing roses

All climbing roses are divided into 3 groups: ramblers (small-flowered), large-flowered (Climber) and Climbing (climbing), distinguished by even larger flowers. The difference between them is clearly visible in the photo.

Our most popular varieties include:

1. "Sympathie" with large velvety, double, faintly scented red flowers with a diameter of 80 to 90 mm. Shoots reach 3 m or more.
2. "Amadeus" with blood-red flowers, double, collected in 6 or 7 pieces. into inflorescences. Shoots 2 m, straight.
3. "Dortmund" is a spreading shrub growing 2 meters or more with the usual large flowers, dazzling red, white in the center. It resembles a variegated dense carpet consisting of large inflorescences.
4. "New Dawn" is a lush 2-meter bush, covered with pale pinkish flowers with a barely noticeable aroma. Blooms several times, winter-hardy.
5. “Moonlight” is a relatively recent variety. It has yellow semi-double, large flowers with a pink border. Hardy, fast growing, repeat flowering, wintering well.
6. “Alchymist” - inflorescences of 5-10 orange flowers appear on last year’s stems and persist from the last days of June until July.
7. "Flammentanz" - bright red slightly compressed spherical flowers, grouped in bouquets of 10-20 pieces. The bush itself is 3 m high. Pleases with beauty once a summer, but for a whole 40 days.
8. 'Schneewalzer' is a special noble repeat flowering variety with huge dazzling white fluffy flowers and dark foliage. The shoots are dense, branching, 2.5 m tall.

Landing

The climbing rose, the planting and care of which is somewhat different from other types of roses, loves the sun, so it is planted on the south or southwest side of the estate. Wetlands are not suitable. In this case, the roots may rot, because they grow up to 2 m deep. It is better when the place where they grow is located on a hill and is well ventilated.

Important! Never plant bushes in places where roses have already grown.

It is recommended to plant plants in the fall (September), although you can do this in the spring, but then the flowers will appear 2 weeks later. The most suitable soil is loose, permeable loam. Heavy clay is diluted with a small amount of lime. A bed 0.5-0.6 m wide is sufficient for planting roses. Holes measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m and at a distance of 1 m from one another are dug in advance. If the soil in them is dry at the time of planting, pour 1 bucket of water into each, add 0.5 buckets of manure, humus and phosphorus-containing fertilizer. The bottom of the hole is dug up.

Before planting, the seedlings are treated - the roots are pruned, removing long shoots, pickled in a solution of low concentration potassium permanganate, the places where the buds are located are sprinkled with charcoal, then the bush is dipped in a biostimulant solution. As the latter, a mineral mixture is often used, consisting of clay, mullein and 2-3 tablets of phosphorobacterin per 10 liters of water or 1 tablet of heteroauxin. After this, the seedling is immersed in the hole. If this happens in the fall, then the root collar is covered with 12 centimeters of soil, otherwise the plant will most likely die in the winter. Next, the soil is compacted and watered, and the plant is pruned at a distance of 18 centimeters from the ground level. When planting in spring, the seedling is shortened to 11-13 cm.

Advice. If you plan to decorate a wall, then place the hole for the climbing rose at a distance of about 0.45 m from the object, because its roots can destroy the foundation.

Caring for climbing roses

Care includes a minimum of activities:

• abundant, but without fanaticism, watering - once a week and a half;
• mulching with grass, sawdust, humus, straw;
• pruning faded shoots to stimulate the appearance of new buds;
• feeding

Since the length of the branches increases quite quickly, you need to plan their direction in advance. As soon as they grow to 0.5 m, install vertical supports to tie them up. During the season, you have to install many of these racks, because many lateral shoots appear on each lash. Thus, a crown is formed, flowering becomes longer and more abundant, and the entire object near which the bush grows is completely covered with stems, as in the photo.

A mandatory procedure is to prepare the bush for winter. It needs good thermal insulation. Climbing roses are covered using two methods: removing them from the support and leaving the vines in place. When choosing the first method, the shoots are removed from the rack, the weak and old ones are removed so that only 10-12 pieces remain. the strongest. Next, they are tied, pressed to the soil, fixed with pegs, covered with spruce branches, and a layer of soil is poured onto the base and covered with film.

Fertilizer and feeding

Humus added to the hole during planting will nourish the rose bush for 2 years. In the future, the plant will require fertilizers. In the spring, manure is applied to encourage the growth of young stems. In autumn, this fertilizer is contraindicated, because the regrown shoots will not have time to gain strength and will not survive the winter. The optimal composition of autumn feeding:

• sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium;
• superphosphate - double and simple;
• slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash, i.e. compositions containing calcium.

During the growing season, roses are fed 4-5 times. To feed plants with potassium, you can use a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 15 g of superphosphate and 16 g of potassium monophosphate. To ensure that roses receive a sufficient amount of phosphate, add 10 g of magnesium sulfate to a bucket of water. As a calcium supplement, use a solution of 1 large spoon of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water.

Advice. To enrich roses with potassium, bury banana peelings under the bush. They contain this element in large quantities.

Climbing rose propagation

The most common method of reproduction is cuttings. The rooting rate is almost 100%. It is better to harvest cuttings from vines that are still blooming or have already bloomed in June-August. This is done like this:

• cut blanks with 2-3 buds;
• the bottom is cut off under the last bud at an angle of 45 degrees, the top is straight;
• the leaves are removed from below and shortened by 1/2 from above;
• plant directly in a flowerbed or container;

• cover with a plastic or glass container;
• moisturize without violating the tightness of the shelter;
• remove protection in the spring of next year.

Sometimes cuttings are treated with a growth agent - heteroauxin or any other.

More complex method - budding. It is suitable only for a few large-flowered climbing roses. The operation is carried out in July-August, but in the south it is also carried out in September. A one- or 2-year-old rosehip is chosen as a rootstock, on the root collar of which a cut is made in the shape of the letter T and a dormant bud is inserted. The area is tightly wrapped with film, and the scion itself is sprinkled with soil. When the 4th leaf appears on the shoots, they are pinched.

Diseases and pests of climbing roses

Climbing roses are often affected by a fungal disease such as powdery mildew, especially when the weather is humid and hot. As a result, the bush stops growing, the flowers fall off, and the plant withers. For prevention, plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture 2 times: the first time in the spring after removing the spruce branches, the second time when the shoots grow 20 centimeters.

Sometimes, after removing the cover, reddish-brown spots appear on the bark. They enlarge, darken and can reach the point where the entire shoot seems to be surrounded by a ring. This disease is called koniothyrium, "burn", cancer of the cortex. It is caused by a fungus that has settled inside the tissue and progresses in winter. Diseased lashes are cut off and burned. For the purpose of prevention in winter, during the thaw, the covering material is raised for ventilation, and during autumn fertilizing the percentage of nitrogen and potassium is reduced.

These roses, like no other plants, are suitable for decorating gazebos, arches, pergolas, fences, walls and balconies. Growing them is not very difficult, so if you wish, you can create beautiful, spectacular compositions from different varieties in your dacha.

The difference between climbing roses and climbing roses: video

Varieties of climbing roses: photo

Climbing roses include types of rose hips, as well as several varieties of garden roses that branch with fairly long stems. They are directly related to the rosehip genus. And these plants are extremely popular in vertical gardening of various structures, buildings and walls, as well as gazebos. Such flowers can decorate both a large structure and a very small one. These plants are widely used to create various structures in the garden, namely, columns, arbors, pyramids, garlands, and arches. They also go well with other plants, which is why their popularity is no less than that of indoor or bush roses.

GENERAL INTRODUCTION TO CLIMBING ROSES

When we talk about climbing roses, we usually mean a plant with flexible long branches. Today it is impossible to trace varietal climbing roses to their wild predecessors. It is the end result of centuries of selection and crossing of both pre-existing varieties and different types of rose hips.

The classification of climbing roses is currently at the stage of formation, since the old one has finally lost its relevance, and the new one has not yet fully taken shape. By and large, all climbing roses are divided into two very broad subgroups: small-flowered and large-flowered.

Planting climbing roses in the ground in spring

Let me make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from those in autumn. All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will lag a little behind in development and will require increased attention from you. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches to about 20 cm in length, and the roots too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the hole should be 60-70 cm. If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, and lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downward and do not bend upward!

Planting a climbing rose in spring involves adding nutritious soil to the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, of peat compost, will please your rose. After planting, trample the soil a little and water it abundantly. It will be very good if you add a drug with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, “Phosphobacterin”, to the water for this first watering. The phytohormone “Heteroauxin” is also perfect.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic film - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. Whether to do this or not is up to you; if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film every day and gradually increase the ventilation time every day. After stable warm weather has established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose bought in a store in spring?

Today in flower shops you can purchase seedlings of climbing roses with an open or closed root system. Representatives with bare roots should be planted in the ground immediately. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated; if they are light green in color, then it is better to refrain from purchasing. The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, sickly, and unlikely to survive the winter. You should also pay close attention to the grafting sites; a correctly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “joint” site, which promotes fusion. If the grafting site peels and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting climbing roses in spring from the store, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots and place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we remove it too; shoots that are too long can be pinched. Don’t forget to powder the cut areas with powdered charcoal or activated carbon.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system can be carefully examined. You can first add the stimulant “Kornevin” to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. What the pit should be like and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been discussed a little higher. Water the rose thoroughly with water.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more soil (hill up). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored fabric - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Autumn planting

When planning to plant a climbing rose, you must first learn how to choose the best quality planting material. Nowadays, you can purchase rose seedlings that are rooted, as well as those that are grafted onto rose hips. But how are they different? Grafted seedlings have one important difference from rooted ones. The fact is that the root system of such a seedling belongs to the rose hips, and on it there is a scion belonging to the varietal climbing rose. In this regard, planting and caring for a rooted rose should be somewhat different than a grafted one. So, for example, a grafted seedling must be buried in the soil when planting so that the place where the graft is located is underground at a depth of 10 centimeters. With this method of planting, the part of the plant that was grafted begins to form its own root system, while the rosehip roots eventually become unnecessary and die off. In the case when, during planting, the scion was not buried in the ground, but remained above its surface, it can lead to the death of the plant. The fact is that rosehip is a deciduous plant, and a grafted rose is an evergreen. If planting was carried out in violation of the rules, then such a discrepancy between the rootstock and scion can lead to the death of the cultivated part of the plant.

Seedlings with an open root system must be immersed in a container of water for 1 day, and this should be done immediately before planting in open ground. After this, you should tear off all the leaves and cut off, using pruners, those stems that are unripe or have been damaged. You should also trim the root system and above-ground parts, leaving 30 centimeters each. The cut areas should be treated with crushed charcoal. If you use grafted seedlings for planting, then you must carefully remove all the buds that are located below the scion. The fact is that rose hips will begin to grow from them. Next, the planting material should be disinfected. To do this, it must be dipped in a solution of copper sulfate (3%).

The hole for planting roses should have dimensions of 50x50. In this case, a distance of at least 100 centimeters must be maintained between the planting holes. The top layer of soil, the most saturated with nutrients, must be removed from the hole being dug and combined with ½ part of a bucket of manure. Part of the resulting earth mixture must be poured into the hole, and then a relatively large amount of water must be poured into it. This procedure must be carried out a day or two before the plant is supposed to be planted. On the day you are planning to plant a seedling, you need to prepare a special solution in order to treat the root system before planting. To prepare the solution, you need to dissolve 1 tablet of heteroauxin, 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin in 500 ml of water.

Then pour this liquid into 9.5 liters of clay mash. Before lowering the seedling into the hole, its roots should be dipped in the prepared mixture. A mixture of soil and manure should be poured into the hole in a mound. Then you need to place the seedling in the hole, carefully straightening its roots. Fill the hole with the same mixture of soil and manure and thoroughly compact the soil surface. Do not forget that the place where the graft is located must be buried 10 centimeters into the ground. In this case, the root collar of a self-rooted seedling must be buried 5 or more centimeters into the ground. The planted plant must be well watered. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, a mixture of soil and manure will need to be added to the hole. Then the plant spuds to a height of 20 centimeters or more.

Peculiarities

Location: sunny and ventilated. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on walls and supports with southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to southern exposure; good lighting helps the growth to ripen, which will flower next year.

Landing: a strip of earth 50 - 60 cm wide is enough. Plant in pre-prepared holes measuring 50 x 50 cm. If the holes are dry, the day before planting they need to be watered and manure added - no less than half a bucket into each hole. In order for the bush to be strong and bloom profusely, after planting the plant must be cut 15 - 20 cm from the soil level. Climbing roses, used to decorate walls and other objects, are planted at a distance of at least 45 cm from the landscaping object.

Care: from the second year after planting, climbing roses are content with minor care, consisting of rare but abundant watering, fertilizing and pruning. Faded branches are pruned to encourage additional flowering. Water roses every 8 - 10 days. The soil around the plant is mulched with sawdust, humus, straw, and grass. Cow dung, which is applied during planting, is used by the plants for two years. In subsequent years, fertilizers are needed, especially organic ones. In addition to manure, you can feed roses with mineral and complex fertilizers: TMAU (peat-mineral-nitrogen), flower mixture, etc. During the growing season, four to five feedings are required.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year

How does it differ from standard requirements? Its further development and splendor of flowering depend on proper care in the first year of a plant’s life. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If the days are sunny, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days have passed after removing the hilling soil, you can begin the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the side branches of the second order, a similar procedure needs to be done, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after these manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Wintering

Roses require shelter. It is important to remember one thing: between the roses and the shelter (film, roofing felt, etc.) there must be air space on top. Roses die not so much from frost, but from getting wet and damping off during prolonged winter thaws or in the spring, when the covering material becomes compacted and does not allow air to pass through well. It should be remembered that preparing roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost. Already at the end of August it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed roses with nitrogen, but it is necessary to apply potassium fertilizers to strengthen the shoot tissue. Roses should be covered for the winter only with the onset of a stable drop in temperature to minus 5-6 °C. Light frosts not only do not harm roses, but even promote better ripening of shoots and harden the plants.

Premature covering leads to plants sprouting and rotting due to lack of air. Sheltering is carried out in dry weather. Climbing roses are removed from their support, damaged or rotten shoots are cut out and cleared of leaves. After this, the lashes are twisted, tied with twine and pinned to the ground with metal or wooden hooks. It is advisable to put dry leaves or spruce branches under them. The top of the shoots is covered with any covering material: dry leaves, spruce branches, wooden boxes, etc.

Reproduction

Propagated well by summer and winter cuttings. The easiest way is green cuttings; most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting. Green cuttings begin in mid-June and end in early August. Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 1-2 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45°) directly under the kidney, the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cuttings are planted in a substrate (a mixture of earth and sand or clean sand) in a pot or box to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered on top with a glass jar or film and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Climbing roses usually root well without the use of growing agents. If it is known that the variety takes root poorly, then before planting the cuttings are treated with an aqueous solution of heteroauxin (40-45 mg, or 0.5 tablets per 1 liter of water) for 12-15 hours, immersing the tips of the shoots 3 cm in the solution. You can treat with an alcohol solution (50 ml of 96% ethyl alcohol, 50 ml of water and 400 g of heteroauxin) for 5 seconds immediately before planting.

Only a small number of varieties from the large-flowered group are propagated by budding. It is carried out in August - early September by placing a sleeping eye into the root collar of a one- or two-year-old rose hip.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be hilled, then the climbing variety must be completely covered - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods; in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to select 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, wrap them with twine and carefully tilt them towards the ground. Using metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend them), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud as described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care activity needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant’s life, branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (select 1 or 2) are cut off completely; later they will be successfully replaced by young basal shoots. If these processes are not present, then approximately 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacement basal branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where new powerful growth began to form; subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short branches-peduncles are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up the pruning shears when the buds on the branches below begin to swell (last weeks of April/early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than expected. If you miss the time for pruning, the plant will devote all its energy to forming new branches and foliage, and flowering will be scanty.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, tearing off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes obvious after the bushes open in the spring. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.

Varieties

Multiflora Group

Snow White. The flowers are white, 12 cm in diameter, double (45 - 50 petals) with a pleasant aroma, in inflorescences up to nine flowers. Bush up to 3 m high, with dark green dense leaves. Suitable for landscaping low objects of various configurations. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Vihuriana Group

Aelita. The flowers are white with a greenish tint, goblet-shaped, 6.5 cm in diameter, double (48 petals), fragrant. Bush up to 3 m high, with shiny small leaves. Repeats flowering. Suitable for landscaping fences, low buildings, for group plantings and cuttings. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Belyanka. The flowers are white, slightly cream with a pink center, 7 - 8 cm in diameter, double (35 - 50 petals), fragrant. Bush up to 3 m high, with dark green dense glossy leaves. Repeats flowering and blooms very profusely. Suitable for landscaping walls, fences, gazebos, as well as for cutting.

Maiden's Dreams. The flowers are orange-pink to coral, 6 cm in diameter, double (25 petals), the edges of the petals are corrugated and indented, in inflorescences there are up to 30 flowers. Bush up to 3 m high, dark green leaves. Suitable for landscaping low objects, effective in standard forms.

Red Lighthouse. The flowers are fiery red with an orange tint, saucer-shaped, 8.3 cm in diameter, semi-double (21 petals), in inflorescences with up to 13 flowers. Bush up to 3.5 m high, with shiny dark green leaves. Suitable for landscaping hedges, gazebos, for single and group plantings and for trunks. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Miskhor Stars. The flowers are orange-red, 8 cm in diameter, semi-double (19 petals), single or in inflorescences (up to 12 flowers). Bush up to 3 m high, dark green leaves. Repeats flowering. Suitable for landscaping fences, pergolas, arches, gazebos.

Orange Sun. The flowers are pale orange, beautifully shaped, 12 cm in diameter, densely double (95 petals), with a faint aroma. Bush up to 3 m high, with dark green dense glossy leaves. Suitable for landscaping fences, walls, fences and for cutting. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Pink News. The flowers are pale pink, 7 - 8 cm in diameter, semi-double (15-20 petals), with a fruity aroma. Bush up to 3 m high, with tenacious shoots. The leaves are bright green, slightly corrugated. Repeats flowering. Suitable for landscaping pyramids, trellises, arches, pergolas, columns, as well as for trunks.

Constellation Gagarin. The flowers are fiery orange-red, 7 cm in diameter, double (30 petals), in inflorescences up to 13 flowers. Bush up to 3 m high, with dark green dense leaves. Suitable for landscaping arbors, arches, walls, trellises and for single plantings.

Support for climbing roses

There are a huge number of different supports for this type of rose. So, as a support you can use an old dried tree, a wooden, metal or polymer arch or lattice, as well as arched rods made of metal. But the best support for such a plant is a building or any structure, but we must remember that plants should be planted at least 50 centimeters away from the wall. It is necessary to fix guides on the surface of the wall, to which the plant shoots or lattice will cling. But we must not forget that if the stems are positioned horizontally, the flowers will grow along their entire length. If they grow vertically, then the flowers will bloom only at the tops of the stems.

In order to fix the stems on the support, you need to use plastic twine. It is prohibited to use wire for these purposes, even wrapped in cloth or a sheet of paper. The shoot must be secured to the support securely, but so that the fastening material does not damage it. It is necessary to systematically inspect plants for the integrity of fastening materials. The fact is that under the weight of the plant itself or from gusts of wind, the twine can break, and in this case there is a risk of significant damage to the rose. Step back 30 to 50 centimeters from the bush and then dig the support into the ground.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and gets sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by replanting. The best time to perform this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to its new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place in the spring is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of the roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the above-ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug up (moving in a circle), approximately 50-60 cm are retreated from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, it is better that the hole is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When replanting, the same rules are followed as during standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downwards, the free space in the hole is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly compacted and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add more soil (it will settle slightly) and hill up your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with replanting roses - they belong to the groups of climbers and ramblers. Let me make a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing roses are called climbing roses; they produce coarse and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. The shoots of climbers are not very flexible; when replanting, they must be cut to half their entire length!

Ramblers are climbing roses with flexible and soft shoots, lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when replanting, all shoots that are more than two years old are pruned. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch off the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

Diseases and pests

Aphids and spider mites can live on climbing roses. In the case where there are not very many aphids on the plant, it is recommended to try to get rid of them using folk remedies. So, you can remove insects from the plant manually. To do this, you need to pinch the part of the plant on which the aphid is located with your fingers and remove it. Don't forget to wear gloves. But this method can only be used at the very beginning of infection. If there are a lot of insects, then removing them manually will be ineffective. In this case, it is recommended to make a soap solution.

The soap should be crushed using a grater, poured into a container, where water should be poured. Let the solution sit as soap takes time to dissolve. Strain it and treat the plant with a sprayer. If after treatment the insects still remain, then you need to buy an insecticidal agent in a special store, which should be marked “for grapes and roses.” For processing in this case, you need to choose a calm, sunny day. Spider mites can settle on a rose only during a hot, dry period, and only when the plant is watered very rarely. Such insects live on the underside of leaves. They feed on plant sap and entangle the leaves with a thin web. An infected rose's leaves turn green-silver.

Very often, to destroy such ticks, an infusion prepared with wormwood, shag, yarrow or tobacco is used. 3 days after treatment with this infusion, 80 to 100 percent of the pests should die. To prepare an infusion of wormwood, you need to pour 500 g of freshly picked wormwood into a wooden container. You need to pour a bucket of cold water in there. When the mixture has been infused for half a month, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. It is necessary to treat both the plant itself and the surface of the soil around it. If you want to get rid of insects in the near future, then you will need to purchase Fitoverm. You can re-treat a couple of weeks after the first. Before you start processing with this product, you need to study the instructions attached to it, which indicate the features, as well as the required dosage.

Cicadas, thrips, roseate sawflies, and leaf rollers can also harm climbing roses. However, if you take care of the flower, following all the rules, they will not settle on it. As a preventive measure, plant marigolds in close proximity to the rose; they will be able to protect this plant from most pests. Also, preventive measures should be taken in autumn and spring. To do this, the bushes need to be treated with a Bordeaux mixture sprayer.

For roses, diseases such as bacterial cancer, gray rot, koniothyrium, powdery mildew, and black spot pose a great danger.

How elegant climbing roses look on fences. Caring for a plant is not an easy process, requiring some time and effort. But no difficulties can keep gardeners from planting a climbing rose on their site.

Popular varieties of climbing roses

Before purchasing planting material for this flower, you need to have information about its varieties. Depending on the species, the care and planting of climbing roses may differ. Some varieties are quite unpretentious to soil, watering and fertilizers. And others are the opposite.

The most common varieties of climbing roses:

• “Flamentanz” is a species that tolerates cold well;
• "Dortmund" - the bush grows up to two meters, blooms with bright red flowers on a dark green background of leaves;
• “Heidelberg” is winter-hardy and unpretentious, blooms with large scarlet flowers;
• "New Down" - the height of the bush can be six meters. The color of the buds is light pink, resistant to diseases;
• “Climbing minehaha” - blooms pink in the last month of spring, the height of the bush can reach four meters;
• “Dorothy Perkins” - the buds of this variety are not large (up to three centimeters in diameter), the plant has bright green leaves.

When is a climbing rose planted, and how to prepare the soil?

Growing a climbing rose begins with planting it. It is worth purchasing planting material in advance, choosing a site and preparing the soil.

Climbing roses are planted in spring or autumn.

First, a plot of land must be dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel. Add peat, lime and humus to the soil in equal proportions. Planting a climbing rose begins with digging holes. The pits should be half a meter by half a meter in size. The holes should be well watered.

At the bottom it is better to put a mixture of manure (2.5 kilograms), clay (5 kilograms) and phosphorobacterin tablets (2 pieces). The compound must be thoroughly mixed until smooth.

Planting a climbing rose

A purchased climbing rose bush requires preliminary preparation for planting. The shoots and root system should be cut to the same length, no more than thirty centimeters. This approach will strengthen the bush and ensure abundant flowering.

Cuts on the roots are treated with ash, and on the shoots - with garden pitch. This is done in order to protect the climbing rose from infections and speed up the healing process of wounds. After planting, the seedling should be covered with soil for successful wintering. Between young bushes you need to leave a distance of about a meter and a half.

When placing a seedling in a planting hole, you should carefully straighten the roots of the plant. When filling the soil, you need to compact it so that voids do not form. If there are gaps between the roots, there is a risk of frost damage.

When planting a weaving rose or the walls of a house, you need to leave a distance of about half a meter between them.

Caring for a climbing rose

The basic rules for caring for a climbing rose are:

• pruning;
• feeding;
• watering;

It is especially important to monitor young seedlings; they need to be regularly watered and fertilized with useful minerals. Weed and loosen the root area of ​​the soil as it becomes contaminated with weeds.

Already in mid-autumn, you need to start preparing for the winter period. On any September day, weak shoots are selected and cut off. The lashes of climbing roses will begin to fall to the ground on their own (a little later they will be covered). After a couple of weeks, the branches of the plant will get used to the horizontal position. At this time, the lashes need to be collected into bundles of three or four pieces and treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

When the air temperature drops below five degrees, it is worth tearing off all the leaves and covering the bare branches.

Covering for the winter

Caring for a climbing rose also includes properly covering it for the winter. In the place where the plant lashes lay, you need to dig small depressions. Place fallen leaves at their bottom, place rose lashes there and cover it with the same material on top. A film or roofing material is also placed on the natural cover. In spring the plant will need to be opened.

Proper care of a climbing rose is not possible without the pruning process. In the spring, weak and damaged shoots need to be identified on the bush. Such branches must be deleted.

In the summer, the already faded vines are cut off, in this way the bush rejuvenates and forms new shoots.

What and how to feed

If you know how to care for a climbing rose, you can grow a beautiful bush with abundant flowering. The plant requires fertilizing; during the growth period it is necessary to fertilize the flower more than five times. The addition of mineral and organic substances will have a positive effect on the development of the rose. It is advisable to alternate them. During the flowering period, the plant is not fed.

Climbing roses are drought-resistant flowers; waterlogging of the soil can lead to death for them. There is also a high risk of exposure to various diseases. Therefore, the plant is not watered often, about once every seven days.

Disease and pest control

Some of the most common diseases in climbing roses are:

• bark cancer;
• powdery mildew.

If they are not treated, the plant will quickly die. Powdery mildew is treated with Bordeaux mixture. It is worth spraying the bushes with this product at least three times within two weeks.

The fight against bark cancer is difficult, so it is better to take preventive measures. For example, timely shelter and release from it. If the plant is affected by the disease, then you need to trim the damaged area of ​​the rose. It's definitely worth burning.

Pests of the climbing beauty are:

• spider mite

The safest methods of protection against aphids and spider mites is to spray the bush with decoctions of nettle and horsetail. But in case of severe damage to the rose, you need to resort to insecticides.

The most popular decoration for fences and walls are climbing roses. A photo with this plant in the background is an indescribable beauty that any gardener can grow.

Video - caring for a climbing rose