Rhododendron water planting and care. Planting and caring for rhododendrons in spring

12.10.202327.05.2017

Hello, dear friends!

This article will be quite voluminous, since in it I collected as much information as possible about growing rhododendrons in a personal plot.

I’ll probably start with a brief description of this beautiful plant and tell you about its main species, which are most adapted to the conditions of the middle zone.

So, rhododendron is one of the highly ornamental woody plants. The richness of the colors of its flowers, shape, grace and splendor of flowering can easily compete with roses. Sometimes it is called “pink bush”.

There are several main types of this plant of the heather family:

Ornamental evergreen rhododendron
Rhododendron semi-evergreen decorative
Rhododendron deciduous

Usually it is a shrub about 2 meters high, less often - a small tree with a height of 50 centimeters to 2 meters.

During flowering, rhododendrons are unusually spectacular. Their flowers, bell-shaped or funnel-shaped, are collected in umbellate multi-flowered or corymbose inflorescences, which are located at the tips of the branches. Such a lush inflorescence can contain up to 20 - 25 flowers, and such a branch looks like a bouquet. And against the background of leathery glossy leaves, the flowers look simply amazing.

Many people consider rhododendrons to be heat-loving exotic plants that cannot be grown in our gardens. I can tell you, based on my own experience of growing rhododendrons, that this is not entirely true. There are some types of these plants that can be successfully grown in central Russia, but in central Russia, even far in the north, the handsome rhododendron can become the first of the other brightly flowering shrubs on your site or in the garden.

I live in the middle Volga region and I can say that the following types of rhododendrons take root best in our zone: Canadian and Daurian. These same species are suitable for the conditions of central Russia. I'll tell you briefly about them:

My favorite. Is deciduous low growing shrub. It grows no higher than one meter in height. Its leaves are up to 6 centimeters long. There are up to 5 beautiful purple-pink flowers on short branches. The plant tolerates winter well and therefore can be successfully grown even in more northern regions.

Rhododendron Daurian- also delicious. He's more taller than the “Canadian” (up to 2 meters and even higher). Its branches are directed upwards. The leaves are leathery and small. In winter, this species does not shed all its leaves, leaving some on the crown. When spring comes, the Daurian rhododendron blooms even before the leaves bloom. The flowers are large, funnel-shaped, up to 4 centimeters in size, purple-pink in color. This beauty can be observed throughout the month, but sometimes these rhododendrons bloom again in the fall. The plant tolerates winter very well, grows slowly, and is easily propagated by green cuttings.

Before I forget! For those who keep bees, I would not recommend growing rhododendrons. But if you still want to combine these two interesting things, then during flowering, cover the rhododendrons during the day (up to 18 hours) with a light covering material. Their nectar is poisonous to bees.

It is best to plant rhododendrons in the light shade of trees, although, in principle, they grow well in open areas.

A favorable environment for rhododendrons is created by coniferous plants growing nearby, so the proximity to them is very good. If you plant rhododendrons in groups, both monochromatic and differently colored, an amazing decorative effect is created. Good combinations of rhododendrons with, barberry,. In general, here you can rely on your imagination. I think the effect will still be wonderful.

Growing rhododendrons and caring for plants

A distinctive feature of all rhododendrons is their slow growth, but this is compensated by the fact that the plants are very durable and have the ability to maintain its decorative properties for decades. For their successful growth, the soil must be acidic, with a pH value of 4 - 5 (). Also, our soil should be loose, water- and breathable, rich and nutritious. But in areas where water stagnates, rhododendrons will not grow, since stagnant water has a detrimental effect on them. Rhododendrons growing in peat soil do well. They do not tolerate neutral soils, much less alkaline soils, and do not like the presence of lime and chlorine in the soil.

Now a little about the root system of these plants: it is compact and shallow, so loosening must be carried out with great care, excluding digging up the trunk circles. To protect the soil in tree trunk circles from drying out, I mulch it with a layer of tree bark mixed with crushed peat. If possible, you can also use coniferous bedding, which has an acidic reaction, which is what we actually need.

Planting and replanting rhododendrons

I would like to note right away that these plants tolerate planting and replanting well. It is best to hold this event in the spring. Make the depth of the planting holes at least 50 centimeters, but the width should be larger, approximately 70 - 80 centimeters. The soil mixture for planting must be specially prepared in advance. To do this, we need high-moor or sphang peat, which has low acidity. Just do not add lime to it. With this peat you need to mix pine compost and soil litter from the places where the pine grows. It’s even better if you find a place in a pine forest where blueberries grow. In addition to these components, you can also add organic substances from manure or plant humus - 1 - 2 kilograms per pit and half a bucket of river sand. Of course, this composition can be simplified based on your capabilities, but, in my opinion, this composition of the soil mixture is ideal for planting rhododendrons.

When planting, the root collar should be positioned slightly above ground level. The soil located next to the root collar must be thoroughly compacted. Then we need to water our plant abundantly and mulch the soil with well-crushed bark, or peat, or fallen pine needles. The mulch layer should be about 5 - 6 centimeters. After 1 - 2 years, in the spring, you need to add a bucket of compost and peat or humus and peat to the soil around the tree trunk, filling this backfill to a shallow depth. Oh, yes, you must first add dry mineral fertilizers to the bedding: potassium sulfate, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate. You should take 1 tablespoon of all these components.

In open ground conditions it is quite difficult to constantly maintain an acidic environment, but by following these steps you can achieve this.

From a plot of the required area you need to select soil to a depth of 40 centimeters. After this, pour a drainage layer of large pebbles about 15 centimeters high onto the bottom. Instead of pebbles, you can take broken brick or crushed stone. Next, you need to pour acidic soil on top of our drainage, consisting of a mixture of pine needles, rotted pine needles, crushed bark and peat. Then you need to scatter mineral fertilizers on top: one tablespoon of potassium sulfate, urea or ammonium sulfate, etc. Now all this needs to be mixed, leveled the bed, watered and planted. With this method, the roots of rhododendrons are constantly in an acidic environment, and our favorite plants grow successfully and delight us with their flowering.

Feeding

Feeding No. 1 is carried out in early May: one tablespoon of potassium sulfate and urea per ten liters of water. Consumption - three liters for each bush.

Feeding No. 2 is carried out at the end of May: one tablespoon of potassium sulfate and “agricola for flowering plants” per ten liters of water. Consumption - four to five liters per bush.

Feeding No. 3 is carried out after rhododendrons bloom: one tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per ten liters of water. Consumption - five liters for each bush.

How to propagate rhododendrons by layering

Although the best way to propagate these plants is cuttings, which I will discuss below, the method of propagation by layering also has its place. Let's talk a little about him.

An incision should be made on the branch that is closest to the soil surface without splitting the branch completely. To prevent our incision from closing, we need to insert some small pebble or small sliver of wood. Now this branch needs to be bent to the ground by digging a small groove under the branch. We lower part of the branch into the groove at the cut site, secure it with a wire or wooden pin, fill the groove with the branch with loose soil mixture, but it is better to fill it with peat.

Closer to autumn, small roots should form in the cut. In the spring of next year, the rooted seedling can be carefully separated from the main (mother) plant.

Now about how to cover the cuttings for the winter. It is better to do this with dry leaves and spruce branches. In the first years, these plants grow very, very slowly. They begin to bloom in the fifth or sixth year. In order for fragile young rhododendrons to grow better and form shoots, fading inflorescences should be regularly removed.

Well, now, as promised above, I’ll tell you how to propagate rhododendrons from cuttings.

The best time for cuttings is June - July.

Using a thin sharp knife, cut a stalk about 10 - 15 centimeters long.
Remove the lower leaves.
We place the cuttings in a solution - a growth stimulator. For 10 liters you need to take 2 tablets of the drug. The temperature of the solution should be 20 - 22 degrees. Soaking time - 20 hours.
Next, we need to plant our cuttings in a special soil substrate. On sale you can find a ready-made substrate called “Rhododendron soil”. If it is not possible to purchase such a substrate, then we prepare an “acidic” soil substrate ourselves, consisting of a mixture of coniferous soil, sand and peat.
From above you need to cover the cuttings with film or glass. It is necessary to constantly moisten the substrate so that under the glass there is a special humid microclimate that promotes the most rapid formation of roots. The temperature should also be constant, at least 25 - 27 degrees.

A well-developed root system usually forms after two to three months.

Pink: “Renata”, “Marka”, “Panenka”

White: “Alena”, “Jackson”

Golden and yellow:"Norm"

Purple and lilac:"Bourzault", "Sapphire", "Blue Pit"

Red: “Scarlet”, “Elizabeth”, “Albrecht”

That's all about growing rhododendrons in the garden. I hope that the article will be useful to you and help you grow beautiful plants. I will gladly accept your comments, reviews, and additions. Don’t forget to subscribe to the news of the “Private Home Garden and Vegetable Garden” website.

See you later, friends!

Type: heather
Flowering period: April May June
Height: 0.3-1.5m
Color: white, pink, lilac, red, yellow, violet
perennial
Winters
Shade-loving
Moisture-loving

It is difficult to imagine a suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their lush caps throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle zone and southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub that resembles a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. Finding an approach to it is not easy, but growing and caring for rhododendrons over time for some lovers of rare plants develops into a hobby - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most lush flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, and grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or Stavropol Territory. However, some varieties, for example, Daursky or Canadian, develop well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, the Urals, or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your summer cottage with its magnificent blooms.

Literally translated from Latin, “rhododendron” means “rose tree” - and indeed, in its appearance the plant is very similar to a rose, although it belongs not to the Rosaceae, but to the heathers

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known indoor azalea, often decorating the window sills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how the relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, and North America some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are individual bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of mountains and in coastal sea areas.

Mountain varieties are small in size and ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.

Among annuals and perennials (there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will also not be a problem, since the color palette of crops is almost limitless. The flowering of the crop begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to its luxurious color palette, garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, and multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and spring, that is, in a growing season convenient for you, excluding flowering time and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However, experienced gardeners still insist on spring planting, which lasts, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted earlier than this period are already covered in thick color by the May holidays - against the backdrop of barely emerging foliage and fresh herbal greenery, they look very impressive.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is the variety P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering occurs in the last ten days of April - the first days of May

It is important to choose the right planting location, since in bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely dark place it will not produce lush flowering.

It is best to place a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach their maximum strength, the plant is completely protected from them.

Not only the walls of a building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shade barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees whose roots go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larches, spruce trees, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot tolerate alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

dig holes that are shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
the lower part is drained with a sand and pebble layer (10-15 cm);
they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), and there should be about 2 times more peat;
lightly compact the soil inside the hole and make a hole in it the size of an earthen ball of a seedling;
lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and fill it with soil mixture up to the very root collar, which as a result should be flush with the soil surface;
water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted pine needles, leaves and crushed oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to better take root in a new place, before planting, thoroughly soak the roots with water - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

Approximate rhododendron planting scheme: 1 – garden soil; 2 – drainage; 3 – soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 – layer of pine needles

There is another trick that promotes better development of the root system. Cut off the most luxuriant buds of a flowering plant - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Planting and further caring for rhododendrons are important steps, following which you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to start decorating the planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape and decorate the base depending on the style of landscape design of your site

Nuances of flower care

The standards for proper care of flowering shrubs do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to follow the watering regime, carry out weeding and pruning in a timely manner, feed the plant with suitable minerals and ensure that pests do not infest.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig at all. When removing weeds, never use a hoe or garden knife; you can only do it manually.

Irrigation mode and features

Rhododendron's relationship with moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely cannot tolerate waterlogging, on the other hand, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.

Even when choosing a place for planting, check whether groundwater is close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots will simply “choke” and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to follow the watering and atmospheric irrigation regime during the development of buds and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, after acidifying the water - for this, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water 12-20 hours before watering. It is better not to use tap water; in extreme cases, it must be allowed to stand. The ideal option is rain collections. The regularity of watering depends on the condition of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy shine and changed turgor, it’s time to water.

When is the best time to prune a plant?

The concept of pruning is very conditional. Usually the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering bush of regular shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to prune. But sometimes it is necessary to thin out the bush, make it a little lower, or simply rejuvenate it.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, before sap flow begins. Select strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and treat the cuts with a specially prepared garden varnish or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will begin, continuing throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Particular skill is required when pruning frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second next year

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly wild color, expect more modest results next year. To prevent this from happening, remove faded buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branched bushes with dense foliage and many buds are an excellent habitat for insects, half of which can destroy the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the bush.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for mollusks. Slugs and snails are collected by hand. Beware of scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, and mealyworms. Treat stems and branches with 8% fungicide "Tiram", "Karbofos" helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bedbugs, ticks, and especially weevils, to get rid of which diazonin is used. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to treat not only the plant itself, but also the top layer of soil around it

Along with insect pests, rhododendrons are threatened by fungal diseases - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux mixture is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Feeding and choice of fertilizers

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. To preserve the acidic environment important for the culture, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, magnesium or calcium sulfate, and ammonium are used, but in minimal concentrations.

Early spring feeding consists of fertilizers containing nitrogen (40-50 g of magnesium or ammonium sulfate per 1 cubic meter of liquid); it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the dose of fertilizer should be reduced to 20 g.

The ideal fertilizer for rhododendrons is a liquid solution of natural fertilizers such as horn meal or cow manure. Rotted manure is diluted with water (1 part fertilizer to 15 parts water), left for 3-4 days and used during irrigation.

1-2 years after planting, it is necessary to update the top layer of soil. To do this, mix peat in equal parts with humus or compost and sprinkle the area around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium are added to the bedding (dry substances - 1 tablespoon each). Agricola can be used as a dry powder for flowering garden plants. Remember that only thoroughly watered bushes need to be fertilized.

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

Let's look at the three most successful ways to propagate rhododendron in garden conditions:

seeds;
cuttings;
layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and labor-intensive task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes with moist peat, a little sand is added, covered with glass caps and placed in a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

The seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to a 2 x 3 cm pattern. The seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Not all gardeners can tolerate propagation by cuttings either. It is necessary to take shoots that are half woody and cut several cuttings about 7-8 cm long from them.

The leaves are removed from the bottom, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours.

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimal temperature is 10ºС. They are planted in the spring along with other flowers, right in boxes, and only after a couple of years can they be transplanted to the main place of growth.

The most convenient propagation option is pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and place the shoot in this groove.

To prevent it from rising, the middle part of the stem is pinned and peat is sprinkled on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck into the ground

The cuttings are cared for in the same way as the entire bush - watered and sprayed. When it takes root (late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to a place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for propagating deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular garden varieties

A 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will get along well in a coniferous garden. It is distinguished by abundant flowering buds reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will definitely please you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom as usual

Adams' rhododendron is an eastern guest, accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with soft pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. It is rare in our country, but in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual soft yellow or cream shade, which will wonderfully dilute the more saturated, rich colors of other varieties

Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in central Russia

And finally, a short video about how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.

Rhododendron is a magnificent plant in its decorativeness and diversity of species. Many gardeners are sure that due to its exotic origin it is very difficult to grow. In fact, if you follow fairly simple and understandable rules, you can become the owner of a handsome man even in areas with a rather harsh climate, for example, in central Russia, namely in the Moscow region.

Origin, natural habitat Origin, natural habitat of rhododendron in the Ural mountains

Rhododendrons is the name of a genus that includes many species of deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen shrubs and trees.

To create the most favorable environment for development, it is worth remembering their habitat. The geography of distribution is quite wide. These amazing shrubs prefer places with high humidity - the coasts of seas, oceans, and large rivers. You can meet them in semi-shaded areas or on the northern slopes of the mountains. The soil in the growing areas is acidic, rich in nutrients and well permeable to moisture.

Varieties for central Russia Varieties for central Russia. Rhododendron Katevbinsky

For planting in the Moscow region, you need to choose only frost-resistant varieties. Here are some of them.

Rhododendron, then r. Ledebura;
R. Katevbinsky and its hybrids;
R. Smirnova and hybrids;
R. Short-fruited;
R. Largest;
R. Golden;
R. Canadian;
R. Schlippenbach;
R. Vazeya;
R. Pukhansky;
R. Adhesive;
R. Pink.

Varieties for central Russia. Rhododendron pink

R. "Costerianum";
R. Japanese;
R. Kamchatka;
R. yellow;
R. alpine (dwarf).

Rules and place of planting Place for planting, rules for planting rhododendron

The most destructive natural factors for rhododendrons are wind and excess sun. Therefore, for planting, choose a protected place, on the north or north-east side of the house or fence, which will be shaded from the scorching rays of the sun. Exotics suffer not only from summer, but also from early spring sunlight.

Rhododendron buds, formed in August, often burn in the spring sun, which warms up enough already at the end of February. As a result, the bush blooms only from the north side and where it was covered with snow.

To prevent this from happening, rhododendron needs care. In early spring it is necessary to shade with shields on the southern and western sides. This is done using shading material, which is securely attached to stakes driven into the ground, 1.5 times higher than the rhododendron. Gaps must be left at the bottom and top for ventilation. For shading, available materials are used: lutrasil (density 60g per m2) or spunbond, burlap (stretched in a double layer).

Shading young rhododendron shoots

Rhododendron can be planted near other trees, remembering that trees with a shallow root system are bad neighbors for them. The battle for moisture and nutrients will end in the death of your pets. These include spruce, chestnut, linden, birch, and maple. But the proximity of pine, oak, and fruit trees is quite acceptable. Tree crowns should not overly shade low-growing shrubs.

As for the rhododendron root ball, it is compact and located close to the surface, so they tolerate replanting well, regardless of age.

The soil

Particular attention must be paid to the soil in which the bushes will be planted. As mentioned above, loose soil with an acidic environment and good removal of excess moisture is suitable for them. Drying out is also unacceptable. It is recommended to prepare the following earthen mixture: sour, red-colored high-moor peat with pH = 4.5 - 5.5, loam and pine needles in proportions 2:3:1. All components are important and necessary, because peat provides the necessary acidity and nutrition, loam does not allow the soil to dry out excessively, and pine needles make the ball loose and breathable.

Problem with rhododendron leaves with low soil acidity

Soil acidity is one of the most important conditions for good shrub growth. Before planting rhododendron in the chosen location, substrate samples are taken to determine it. Then they are mixed, and one tbsp. The spoon is placed in a glass bowl. Distilled water is also added here (four times the amount). Mix everything thoroughly and leave for a couple of hours, sometimes shaking the mixture. Then indicator paper is moistened with it and the color of the paper is compared with the color of the scale. Thus, you can easily and simply determine the pH at home.

If you find out that the acidity of the soil is insufficient, it can be increased in various ways:

For example, by adding sphagnum peat from high bogs (its pH is 3.6-4.0), heather soil.
You can also add chemicals such as aluminum sulphate A12(SO4)3 (150 g per 1 m2 of soil), concentrated sulfuric acid (5 ml per 10 l of water). You just need to remember that you must add acid to water, and not vice versa. And this must be done very carefully. Rhododendrons are watered with the mixture several times during the growing season. This will help maintain the pH of the soil.
Physiologically acidic fertilizers such as potassium sulfate (Sylvinite, Kainite, Kalimagnesia, Kalimag), superphosphate (Simple superphosphate, Double superphosphate, Phosphorite flour), ammonium sulfate are also a good way to maintain soil pH.

Where is the best place to plant rhododendron?

Growing and caring for rhododendron seedlings

To drain excess moisture, it is better to plant rhododendron on higher ground so that in the spring the root neck does not get wet due to melt water. To prevent the hillock from spreading, you can cover it with stones, which, moreover, will fit harmoniously into the composition.

For landing:

dig a hole measuring about 60x60cm and 40cm deep;
fill it with substrate components;
mix thoroughly;
compacted (this volume will require about 120 liters of ready-made earthen mixture, that is, 40 liters of peat, loam and pine needles);
dig a hole to the size of the root ball and plant the plant in the ground (while making sure that the base of the root is not buried in the ground);
the soil around must be mulched with peat or pine needles, without filling its base.

Young specimens with a still undeveloped root system can be planted in a smaller hole - 40x40cm and 30cm deep. The volume of the substrate for it is 25 liters. As the roots grow, the hole can be increased in width by adding fresh earthen mixture.

It is better to plant a fragile tree in a protected, shaded corner of the garden, and only after 1-2 years plant it in a permanent place.

Caring for rhododendron Rhododendron is best planted at higher elevations

Rhododendrons do not require special care if planted according to all the rules. The main components are watering and timely fertilizing during the season.

Since these trees are moisture-loving, you need to ensure that they do not suffer from lack of moisture, and also carry out regular watering with rainwater. At the same time, remember that excess water is also unacceptable, so do not flood the rhododendron too much. It is better to water little by little, but more often, so that the moisture has time to be absorbed. In August, watering is sharply reduced, or even stopped, so that the plant gradually begins to prepare for dormancy. Care also includes removing weeds, but this can only be done by pulling them out, and the soil should not be loosened.

Feeding

Feeding and fertilizers will allow you to grow both garden and indoor rhododendron without any problems.

They have a very positive effect on the development of the plant. Special mineral fertilizers, both liquid and granular, are suitable for fertilizing (Ammophos, Nitrophoska, Diammofoska). They are applied according to the instructions from the beginning of May to the end of June. Further, no additional feeding is required until the next season.

Under no circumstances should ash be used as a fertilizer, as it alkalizes the soil and the plants begin to suffer from chlorosis. Special acidifiers, for example, colloidal or ground sulfur, will help correct the situation. To change the pH by one, sulfur is added at the rate of 40 g per 1 square meter of land. But we must remember that its effect will not be immediate. In order to see the result immediately, you should use a chelated fertilizer (for example, Zircon, Domotsvet, Tsitovit, Ferovit), which contains iron (for example, chelated iron).

Spruce needles help oxidize the soil and create ideal conditions for rhododendron

When caring for rhododendron, spruce branches with needles will also be an excellent fertilizer. Fertilizer is done like this:

cut the branches into pieces (1 cm long);
pour into a container, fill with cold water;
put on fire and boil for about 10 minutes;
leave covered for three days;
1 liter of decoction is diluted in 10 liters of water and the bushes are added;
to reduce the acidity of the fertilizer, add 1 tablespoon of creamy lime per 10 liters of solution.

Mulching

Rhododendron care includes annual mulching around the bushes. Cover the beds with synthetic or organic material in order to protect the plants from poor environmental conditions and enrich the soil.

They do it like this:

It is advisable to lay mulch after rain;
Before this, it is recommended to loosen the soil surface so that it does not become compacted;
the mulch layer ranges from 4 to 9 centimeters;
Organic mulch is left on the garden bed throughout the winter.

Basic rules for successfully growing rhododendrons in the Moscow region

a deliberate choice of variety, which must be winter-hardy so that the plant can overwinter without loss;
the right choice of place for planting: shaded in summer from the midday sun and sheltered from the winds in winter;
optimal composition of the substrate (it is important to remember about acidity, the plant does not develop well on alkaline and slightly alkaline soils): high-moor peat, leaf soil, pine needles in proportions 2:3:1;
regular watering (10-12 liters per tree two to three times a week);
ensuring the removal of excess moisture from the soil by planting on small hills, since shrubs do not react well to excess moisture;
mandatory annual mulching;
avoid loosening the soil directly near the bush, because the root system is located close to the surface. Therefore, it is advisable to remove weeds near rhododendron bushes with your hands;
a well-thought-out calendar of fertilizing with special fertilizers (for example, Gilea, Azalea).

Rhododendron - planting and care in the Moscow region

Bottom line

Even in an area with such a harsh climate as the Moscow region, you can grow magnificent rhododendrons without unnecessary effort and labor. The main thing is to carefully follow all the rules of planting and care, and also to know what is the best way to feed and how to properly mulch this exotic tree.

Hello, dear friends!

This article will be quite voluminous, since in it I collected as much information as possible about growing rhododendrons in a personal plot.

I’ll probably start with a brief description of this beautiful plant and tell you about its main species, which are most adapted to the conditions of the middle zone.

There are several main types of this plant of the heather family:

Ornamental evergreen rhododendron
Rhododendron semi-evergreen decorative
Rhododendron deciduous

Usually it is a shrub about 2 meters high, less often - a small tree with a height of 50 centimeters to 2 meters.

Canadian rhododendron is my favorite. Is deciduous low growing shrub. It grows no higher than one meter in height. Its leaves are up to 6 centimeters long. There are up to 5 beautiful purple-pink flowers on short branches. The plant tolerates winter well and therefore can be successfully grown even in more northern regions.

Rhododendron Daurian is also delightful. He's more taller than the “Canadian” (up to 2 meters and even higher). Its branches are directed upwards. The leaves are leathery and small. In winter, this species does not shed all its leaves, leaving some on the crown. When spring comes, the Daurian rhododendron blooms even before the leaves bloom. The flowers are large, funnel-shaped, up to 4 centimeters in size, purple-pink in color. This beauty can be observed throughout the month, but sometimes these rhododendrons bloom again in the fall. The plant tolerates winter very well, grows slowly, and is easily propagated by green cuttings.

It is best to plant rhododendrons in the light shade of trees, although, in principle, they grow well in open areas.

A favorable environment for rhododendrons is created by coniferous plants growing nearby, so the proximity to them is very good. If you plant rhododendrons in groups, both monochromatic and differently colored, an amazing decorative effect is created. Good combinations of rhododendrons with Japanese quince, barberry, and lilac. In general, here you can rely on your imagination. I think the effect will still be wonderful.

Growing rhododendrons and caring for plants

A distinctive feature of all rhododendrons is their slow growth, but this is compensated by the fact that the plants are very durable and have the ability to maintain its decorative properties for decades. For their successful growth, the soil must be acidic, with a pH value of 4 - 5 (read about soil pH). Also, our soil should be loose, water- and breathable, rich and nutritious. But in areas where water stagnates, rhododendrons will not grow, since stagnant water has a detrimental effect on them. Rhododendrons growing in peat soil do well. They do not tolerate neutral soils, much less alkaline soils, and do not like the presence of lime and chlorine in the soil.

Planting and replanting rhododendrons

In open ground conditions it is quite difficult to constantly maintain an acidic environment, but by following these steps you can achieve this.

From a plot of the required area you need to select soil to a depth of 40 centimeters. After this, pour a drainage layer of large pebbles about 15 centimeters high onto the bottom. Instead of pebbles, you can take broken brick or crushed stone. Next, you need to pour acidic soil on top of our drainage, consisting of a mixture of pine needles, rotted pine needles, crushed bark and peat. Then you need to scatter mineral fertilizers on top: one tablespoon each of potassium sulfate, urea or ammonium sulfate, and “Agricola for flowering plants.” Now all this needs to be mixed, leveled the bed, watered and planted. With this method, the roots of rhododendrons are constantly in an acidic environment, and our favorite plants grow successfully and delight us with their flowering.

Feeding

Feeding No. 1 is carried out in early May: one tablespoon of potassium sulfate and urea per ten liters of water. Consumption - three liters for each bush.

Feeding No. 2 is carried out at the end of May: one tablespoon of potassium sulfate and “agricola for flowering plants” per ten liters of water. Consumption - four to five liters per bush.

Feeding No. 3 is carried out after rhododendrons bloom: one tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per ten liters of water. Consumption - five liters for each bush.

How to propagate rhododendrons by layering

Although the best way to propagate these plants is cuttings, which I will discuss below, the method of propagation by layering also has its place. Let's talk a little about him.

Closer to autumn, small roots should form in the cut. In the spring of next year, the rooted seedling can be carefully separated from the main (mother) plant.

Well, now, as promised above, I’ll tell you how to propagate rhododendrons from cuttings.

The best time for cuttings is June - July.

Using a thin sharp knife, cut a stalk about 10 - 15 centimeters long.
Remove the lower leaves.
We place the cuttings in a solution of “Heteroauxin” - a growth stimulator. For 10 liters you need to take 2 tablets of the drug. The temperature of the solution should be 20 - 22 degrees. Soaking time - 20 hours.
Next, we need to plant our cuttings in a special soil substrate. On sale you can find a ready-made substrate called “Rhododendron soil”. If it is not possible to purchase such a substrate, then we prepare an “acidic” soil substrate ourselves, consisting of a mixture of coniferous soil, sand and peat.
From above you need to cover the cuttings with film or glass. It is necessary to constantly moisten the substrate so that under the glass there is a special humid microclimate that promotes the most rapid formation of roots. The temperature should also be constant, at least 25 - 27 degrees.

A well-developed root system usually forms after two to three months.

Pink: “Renata”, “Marka”, “Panenka”

White: “Alena”, “Jackson”

Golden and yellow: “Normal”

Purple and lilac: “Bourzault”, “Sapphire”, “Blue Pit”

Red: “Scarlet”, “Elizabeth”, “Albrecht”

See you later, friends!

Type: heather
Flowering period: April, May, June
Height: 0.3-1.5m
Color: white, pink, lilac, red, yellow, purple
perennial
Winters
Shade-loving
Moisture-loving

Nuances of flower care
Irrigation mode and features
Feeding and choice of fertilizers

An exotic guest at your dacha

Like most lush flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, and grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are individual bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of mountains and in coastal sea areas.

Mountain varieties are small in size and ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.

Among annuals and perennials (there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.

Thanks to its luxurious color palette, garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, and multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is the variety P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering occurs in the last ten days of April - the first days of May

It is important to choose the right planting location, since in bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely dark place it will not produce lush flowering.

Flowers absolutely cannot tolerate alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

dig holes that are shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
the lower part is drained with a sand and pebble layer (10-15 cm);
they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), and there should be about 2 times more peat;
lightly compact the soil inside the hole and make a hole in it the size of an earthen ball of a seedling;
lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and fill it with soil mixture up to the very root collar, which as a result should be flush with the soil surface;
water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted pine needles, leaves and crushed oak bark are suitable.

Approximate rhododendron planting scheme: 1 – garden soil; 2 – drainage; 3 – soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 – layer of pine needles

Nuances of flower care

Irrigation mode and features

When is the best time to prune a plant?

Particular skill is required when pruning frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second next year

Protection from pests and diseases

Feeding and choice of fertilizers

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

Let's look at the three most successful ways to propagate rhododendron in garden conditions:

seeds;
cuttings;
layering.

Not all gardeners can tolerate propagation by cuttings either. It is necessary to take shoots that are half woody and cut several cuttings about 7-8 cm long from them.

The leaves are removed from the bottom, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours.

The most convenient propagation option is pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and place the shoot in this groove.

To prevent it from rising, the middle part of the stem is pinned and peat is sprinkled on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck into the ground

The most popular garden varieties

A 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will get along well in a coniferous garden. It is distinguished by abundant flowering buds reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will definitely please you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom as usual

Adams' rhododendron is an eastern guest, accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with soft pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. It is rare in our country, but in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.

And finally, a short video about how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.

Conditions

Rhododendrons grown in gardens are deciduous or evergreen shrubs, completely covered with flowers in the spring.

However, the splendor and splendor of flowering did them a disservice: a Russian gardener, looking at a luxurious picture in a magazine, often thinks: “This is not for us... Somewhere in the south - yes, but this will not survive the winter here.” . However, everything is not like that - it will overwinter and bloom no worse than in the picture. You just need to provide the plant with the appropriate conditions in the garden and choose a winter-hardy variety.

Before you go to the store for rhododendrons, you need to assess the capabilities of your site and decide whether it is suitable for planting them. These shrubs require good drainage, completely eliminating stagnation of water, and wind protection, especially winter and spring. Increased is desirable humidity air and slight shading. Shade on the south side of the plantings is especially important in early spring: at this time the sun dries the leaves of evergreen varieties, they “burn”. Deciduous rhododendrons are more tolerant of this factor, but their flower buds and upper parts of shoots may also suffer.

The soil should be loose, moderately nutritious, and acidic. In its pristine state, the soil at your summer cottage is rarely suitable for rhododendrons, unless your garden is located in a pine forest. As a rule, the gardener knows exactly what needs to be done with the soil in the planting areas so that it becomes loose and “breathable.”

In general, it is desirable to achieve such a soil structure that the garden tool enters it without effort.

And lastly, the site should have the opportunity to regularly water the plants.

Choice

If you already have everything listed in your garden or if you can correctly adjust local conditions, then you can think about choosing a species and variety. First of all, the question arises, which rhododendron to prefer: evergreen or deciduous? For areas with a lack of shade, it is better to start with deciduous ones, but if there are enough shady places, then it is worth trying to plant evergreens too. But definitely winter-hardy!

In central Russia, a number of species rhododendrons, the flowering of which is in no way inferior to the varietal beauties. At the same time, they are highly resistant to various unfavorable conditions, so they will be welcome guests in every garden. These are deciduous rhododendrons such as yellow, Kamchatka, Canadian, soft, pink (or prinophyllum), Schlippenbach, Japanese, and evergreen species: Caucasian, Katevbinsky, largest, Ledebura, dense, Smirnova and some others. They can often be found on sale at exhibitions and fairs.

However, most often, when you go shopping, you have to choose from varietal rhododendrons. The pedigree of most varieties is very confusing, but they are usually grouped into groups of hybrids, each of which had its own specific “founder”. This helps you figure out whether a particular variety is suitable for your garden conditions. And to make this difficult task easier for you, we have compiled an approximate list of hybrid rhododendrons with which you can go to the store without fear of making a mistake and without memorizing names that are unusual for our ears.

Deciduous

Among the most winter-hardy deciduous varieties (for winters with frosts of –30 °C and below) are plants from the Northern Lights series. These are hybrids of Rhododendron Prinophyllum. They do not have the largest flowers, but they have an easygoing nature, good growth rate, dense bushes and abundant flowering. All of them reach a height of 130–150 cm in adulthood. Rosy Lights have pink flowers, Lilac Lights have lilac flowers, and Mandarin Lights have orange flowers. The White Lights variety blooms white, while the Golden Lights and Lemon Lights bloom in different shades of yellow.

Absolute resistance to cold in central Russia and, in particular, in the Moscow region, is characteristic of many (though not all!) varieties from the KnapHill-Exbury group (hybrids based on soft rhododendron) and some plants from the Rustica group: Freya, Narcissiflor and Tasso.

Rhododendrons of the KnapHill-Exbury group (frost resistance –30 °C)
Name	Flower color
	light yellow, very large
Feuerwerk	red with orange tint
Gibraltar	orange, slightly tinted yellow, turning red towards the end of flowering
	dark pink, with a large golden-yellow spot on the upper petal
Klondyke	golden yellow, very intense color, large
	dark red, buds almost black
	snow-white with contrasting yellow spots
Silver Slipper	creamy white, with a delicate light yellow pattern

Varieties of Japanese rhododendron are also of interest:

Dr. M.Osthoek: flowers are dark salmon-red with a light salmon spot;
Directeur Moerlands: flowers are golden-yellow, the inside of the flower is more intensely colored, with an olive-green spot;
Dr. Reihenbach: flowers are light salmon-orange;
Hugh Koster: salmon-orange flowers with a red throat and a brown spot.

Evergreens

Of the evergreen varietal rhododendrons, plants from the group are best suited for growing in central Russia Katevba hybrids(Catawbiense, or Catawbiense-Hybridum) , which received its name in honor of its ancestor - r. Katevbinsky, which was crossed with other winter-hardy rhododendrons in central Russia. Some of them are largely frost-resistant; in our conditions they grow very well and reach 3–4 m in height and up to 1.5 m in crown diameter.

A relatively new group of winter-hardy evergreen rhododendrons - Marjatta Hybrid, including plants of Finnish selection. It is named after its author, the famous Finnish breeder Marjatta Uosukainen. These varieties are mostly bred on the basis rhododendron short-fruited and distinguished by light-colored flowers of pale pink or white tones. All of them are characterized by high frost resistance and are suitable for growing in conditions with winter temperatures from –29° to –34°С).

Katevba hybrids
Name	Frost resistance	Flower color
Album Elegans		white with greenish-yellow speckles on the upper petal
Catawbiense Grandiflorum		lilac-violet, with brown-red spots
Purpureum Elegans		purple with a violet-lavender tint along the edges of the petals
Roseum Elegans		bright pink, inside with delicate bronze pattern
		white, slightly pinkish at the beginning of flowering. There is a large, clear brown spot on the inside
Nova Zembla		ruby red with a darker center
Purpureum Grandiflorum		violet, lighter inside than outside, with a golden brown spot on the upper petal
Rasputin		violet-blue, inside with a large dark spot

Quite winter-hardy in central Russia and the so-called P. J.M. hybrids, obtained from the Carolinian rhododendron. They are also suitable for growing in our area, where winter temperatures range from –29 to –34°. More often than others in our garden centers you can find the cultivar Elite (P. J. M.Elite) .

Regarding the very often sold in our garden centers Rhododendron Yakushima hybrids, then they do not have good winter hardiness and, as a rule, freeze already at minus 18–20°. But among them there are also several varieties that can grow in the middle zone: Falling Snow(–28 °С), Fantastica(–25 °С), Lumina(–28 °С), Schneebuket(–26 °C).

In the last decade, low-growing varieties that look great in rock gardens or low borders, from the group of so-called Kurum azaleas or varieties obtained on the basis rhododendron obtuse .

In the Moscow region and in central Russia they feel good, and thanks to the presence of high and stable snow cover, they also winter well under it. But one feature can negate all efforts to grow this group of rhododendrons: snowfall for 10–15 days is often preceded by frosts of –25–28° on bare ground. As a result, many plants die, including low-growing rhododendrons. Therefore, this group requires increased attention in order to protect it from adverse influences, although in general its representatives are distinguished by good winter hardiness and are able to withstand frosts down to –32°. The most common varieties on sale are Kermesina, Maruschka, Saschiko and etc.

Varieties of Finnish selection
Name	Frost resistance	Flower color
		dark pink with a red-orange spot on the upper petal
Helsinki University		light pink, lighter inside, with a greenish-orange pattern on the upper petal
R. M. A.Tigerstedt’ (Peter Tigerstedt)		white with red-brown spots in the center
		white with a pink glow and a light green spot on the petal, towards the end of flowering almost white with a slight green tint.
		light pink with a brown spot
		purple-red
Hellikki		purple-red
Pohjolan Tytar syn. Pohjola's Daughter		when blooming - salmon-colored, towards the end of flowering they become lighter, almost white with green or brown spots on the upper petal.

One of the rhododendrons of hybrid origin - Cunningham's White– I would like to note separately. This variety was bred by the Englishman Cunningham back in 1850. A dense, dense, dome-shaped bush reaches 1.5 m in height with a significantly greater width. Its flowers are very spectacular: pinkish in buds, then white with greenish-yellow spots. It blooms in April–May, and often again (usually when the summer is warm and humid). The variety is winter-hardy and unpretentious and grows relatively well even on alkaline soils.

How to grow

Landing

Particular attention should be paid to the correct planting of rhododendron. It would seem that they chose a suitable place, prepared the soil, happily brought a pot with a winter-hardy variety from the garden, easily took it out of the container and planted it. It's not difficult at all. But there is a possible danger in keeping rhododendron in containers. The fact is that the roots of the plant, in contact with the walls of the pot, begin to die. If the bush is in the container for a long time, then the layer of dead roots becomes quite dense. When you plant such a bush, it turns out that its living roots still end up in a container, only not in a plastic one, but formed from a dense “felt” of dead roots. The root system has nowhere to develop, young roots cannot penetrate the soil and the rhododendron simply starves. In this case, the layer of dead roots must be carefully removed or, as a last resort, several transverse cuts must be made to the root ball.

The size and depth of the planting hole are determined by the soil conditions and water regime of the site. Under normal conditions, its width is 60–70 cm, depth – 30–40 cm. On heavy clay soils, the pit should be smaller (15–20 cm), but much wider (1.0–1.2 m). It is filled with high-moor peat or previously prepared soil mixture. It is very important that the substrate is acidic - with a pH of 3.5–5.0. The following options can be recommended for such a mixture:

acidic peat, coniferous and leaf soil, river sand (3:1:2:1);
acidic peat, sawdust, sand (2:1:1);
peat, fallen pine needles, sawdust, sand (2:1:1:1), etc.

It is advisable to add complete mineral fertilizer to the soil mixture at the rate of 150–200 g per 1 m³, as well as 40–60 g of sulfur. A small roll of soil is formed around the planting site and water is gradually poured in until the soil is completely saturated with moisture. After 1–2 weeks, the soil is leveled, but a small depression is left so that water can be retained during further watering.

Care

The principles of generally simple care for rhododendrons are easy to understand if you know the features of their root system. It is indeed not entirely ordinary: the plants have a large number of thin roots, located compactly and densely, close to the soil surface. The shape of the coma is wider than deep. There are no core, deep roots. For example, a 15-year-old bush of a medium-sized variety may have a root ball diameter of 80 cm and a depth of 35 cm. Mulch will help protect such a root system from drying out, overheating and sudden changes in temperature during snowless frosts. That's why Mulching is a truly necessary care technique. Shredded bark or cones, pine needles, pine or light garden compost, composted small coniferous wood chips, etc. are suitable as a covering.

Watering rate usually 1–1.5 buckets two to three times a week for an adult plant. Young seedlings are watered more often, but not more than 0.5 buckets per bush. During flowering, plants require more frequent watering. If the weather is dry in the fall, then rhododendrons should also be watered abundantly - this promotes better overwintering. And in dry and hot weather, the bushes are sprayed with water.

The pH of the water used for irrigation is of great importance. It should be no more than 4–5 units, otherwise the soil becomes alkalized and the rhododendrons begin to hurt. To avoid this, The water is acidified before watering. You can use concentrated sulfuric acid (1 ml per bucket of water), or oxalic, citric or other organic acids (3-4 g per bucket of water). It is acceptable to use table vinegar - about ½ cup per bucket of water.

A useful measure when growing rhododendrons - removing faded inflorescences. This prevents the formation of seeds, but allows the plant to use nutrients to lay flower buds for flowering next year, as well as for the growth of shoots. At a young age, removing inflorescences causes the formation of new branches and better growth of the bush in width and height. Additional branching can also be achieved by removing vegetative buds.

Shelter

Late spring and early autumn frosts do not pose a danger to rhododendrons. During the active growing season and flowering, most varieties can withstand temperatures down to –7 °C.

But the question of “to cover or not to cover plantings for the winter” is decided individually for each site. If a winter-hardy variety is chosen and it is planted in a suitable place, protected from the wind and early spring sun, then only snow will be the best and most sufficient shelter. If the location is not ideal, you will have to install shade and wind shields.

A separate question is how to protect evergreen rhododendron bushes from falling apart under snow. There are two ways: worry about it and take measures to protect it, or let the plant “float freely”, leaving it to solve the problem on its own. In the first case, you will have to install snow-cutting structures over the bush or tie the branches with elastic material. You can build a frame around the plant and stretch a dense mesh or something similar over it. As a result, the bush will retain its characteristic shape, but you will be doomed to adjust the size of the protective structures every year as it grows. In the second case, if you do nothing, you will get a bush with a more free form and, with some frequency, after winters with particularly heavy snow, the loss of a certain number of shoots broken by snow.

Location

Any variety can be planted as a single bush on the lawn or under a tree canopy. They will look great in compositions on alpine slides, in “Japanese gardens”, and even in hedges. They can be used to create beautiful low- and medium-height borders. And of course, these plants will become the main decoration of the heather garden.

Two-faced Janus

What is the difference between rhododendrons and azaleas?

N. M. Strashko, Tarusa

Candidate of Biological Sciences Tatyana Kurlovich answers:

There is absolutely no difference. Initially, azaleas were classified as a separate genus, and later - a special section. Rhododendrons were thought to have ten stamens and azaleas five. But both of them often have deviations from these norms. In addition, there were a number of other signs that mean nothing to the average gardener. In later classifications, this section was eliminated and its representatives were scattered among other divisions, none of which received the name “Azalea.” Therefore, azaleas have practically ceased to exist in the scientific literature.

But the tradition remains. Representatives of a certain group of plants with blurred boundaries are still called azaleas. For example, in spring, stores often sell Sims rhododendron varieties under this name, and Polish flower growers call all deciduous rhododendrons this way.

Prepared by candidate of biological sciences Tatyana Kurlovich and landscape designer Svetlana Voronina

By planting rhododendron in a sunny place, you can wait for flowering for several years. And all because this shrub needs shading. Rhododendron does not grow in the scorching sun: the leaves get burned and quickly dry out. Rhododendron at a young age most often dies from the heat.

Rhododendron planted ONLY in the shade. It is not afraid of transplants, so as soon as you notice that a rhododendron seedling is suffering from the sun, immediately transplant it into dense shade. The bushes grow quickly and bloom luxuriantly exclusively on acidic soils with good air exchange. As a filling for the planting hole unsuitable manure, sawdust, black soil. By the way, it's the same.

Their root system is shallow and compact, so weeds need to be pulled out rather than weeded. The roots are too close to the surface, so they are easy to damage. There should always be a thick layer of mulch under the bush. Then weeds will not grow, and soil moisture is maintained.

With good care and proper placement on the site, rhododendron pleases with flowering every year. Withered inflorescences must be removed, preventing the formation of seeds. In place of one removed inflorescence, 2-3 new flowers will form. The bush becomes more lush, and flowering is more abundant and longer.

Rhododendrons are regularly watered during flowering, preventing the soil from drying out. And in the summer heat after sunset, it is recommended to spray the crown with soft water. With a lack of water, the leaves lose their brightness and turgor.

How to plant rhododendron

Place the seedling in a bucket of water so that the roots are well saturated with water before planting.
The planting hole should be 2-3 times larger than the root system of the seedling.
If you plant rhododendron under a tree, then the planting hole must be fenced off from the roots of the neighboring tree with roofing material or a piece of slate.
Fill the hole with a mixture of peat (3 parts) and compost soil (1 part).
Water the soil mixture generously.
Do not deepen the root collar; it should be at ground level.
Water thoroughly and mulch with pine needles in a layer of 7-10 cm.
Blooming flowers and half of the buds must be removed. This way the plant will take root better.

Good neighbors for rhododendrons

Bad neighbors for rhododendrons

Spruce
Birch
Chestnut
Aspen

How to make rhododendron bloom

Plant in the shade or on the north side.
Need acidic soil.
Pick off inflorescences after flowering.

Feeding

Fertilizing in spring. Rotted manure is suitable and is used instead of mulch. Rhododendron is fertilized with organic infusion several times during the growing season. If it is not there, then it is best to use special fertilizers for rhododendrons. They contain optimally selected all the necessary substances in the right proportions.

Feeding begins from the moment the plant begins to grow, no later than May. Be careful with doses. Rhododendrons It’s better to mulch once again than to feed. If the bush feels good and blooms profusely, then minimal doses of fertilizer once a month will be enough for it.

The bush responds well to application superphosphate in liquid form: 30 grams per 10 liters of water. Feeding rhododendron with ammonium sulfate and potassium sulfate in a very low concentration (1%) on the leaf is also useful. Before fertilizing, rhododendron needs to be watered.

As the last feeding of rhododendron in mid-summer, it is most often used potassium sulfate: Dissolve a teaspoon in 10 liters of water. For adult bushes, the dosage is doubled. In August and autumn, rhododendrons are not fed.

Doesn't fit for feeding rhododendrons, ash, as it reduces the acidity of the soil. And this. The main symptom of this disease is yellowing of the leaves. You can get rid of it by watering with acidified water and treating the leaves with special anti-chlorosis products from a spray bottle.

Spring care

In early spring, rhododendrons suffer more not from recurrent frosts, but from the sun. Their leaves simply burn. Evergreens are most sensitive to early spring solar activity large-leaved varieties.

To protect them from the sun, they are shaded with shields on the south and southwest sides at the end of winter after the cover is removed. Artificial shading can be removed when leaves bloom on neighboring trees.

In spring, it is important to prevent the buds from rotting. The burlap is removed on a cloudy day to prevent the leaves from getting burned.

Excellent prevention of fungal diseases - treatment foundationazole in May and mid-summer. Evergreen varieties, as well as Canadian rhododendron and Ledebura, are extremely susceptible to fungal infections.

Pruning rhododendrons

The formation of the crown is the key to continuous and abundant flowering of rhododendron. Rhododendron pruning begins from a very tender age. Young plants need pin at a height of 30-50 cm, to form a beautiful lush bush. Branches are pruned for mature strong plants in March. You can’t cut too much; you need to remove excess branches gradually. In the first spring, one half, and the second part of the bush - a year later.

Update The bush can be trimmed by cutting the branches to 30-40 cm. After about a month, the dormant branches awaken, and the rhododendron restores its decorative appearance.

After this procedure, the plant especially needs more careful care: regular feeding, generous watering and protection from the scorching sun.

Caring for rhododendron in autumn

At the end of autumn, with the first frosts, the evergreen rhododendron is tied with twine and covered with burlap or sandboard. This cover should be removed immediately after the snow melts.

But deciduous rhododenron overwinters well in temperate climates. It can survive frosts down to -10 without shelter. If severe cold sets in, then in winter it can be protected with burlap.

Evergreen varieties Rhododendrons tolerate frosts less well than deciduous ones. They need shelter. In addition, they often break under the weight of snow and strong winds. It is best to build a polyurethane foam frame over the bush and cover it with roofing material or a sheet of slate. And wrap the plant itself as indicated above.

– This is a charming ornamental plant for your garden. But it is not easy to grow in our area. The homeland of this flower is the Mediterranean, which indicates its heat-loving nature and poor frost tolerance. Therefore, in order for the plant to take root, you will need to comply with all the conditions of proper agricultural technology and provide it with proper care. Today we’ll talk about how to choose the right seedlings for planting rhododendron on your site, the features of this process, and also pay attention to the subsequent care and preparation of rhododendron for winter. In addition, information regarding its use in landscape design will be no less useful.

Correct choice of planting material

Two or four year old rhododendron bushes are best suited for planting. When purchasing, pay attention to the bushiness of the seedling cuttings (the most tenacious ones branch immediately near the root collar), and to its leaves (should be free of spots and swellings). Also, be sure to inspect the roots of the seedling; it is unacceptable for them to have wet spots or knots. The place where you purchase seedlings is also important.

It is best to buy them from experienced gardeners or special nurseries, and it is not advisable to do so in markets, since their chances are much lower (most sellers simply do not know what varieties and types they sell).

Important!Beginners are advised not to start with a specific variety of rhododendron, but rather with planting the species. Since the species is less whimsical and more frost-resistant than the variety obtained on its basis. Although the varieties are very tempting with their wide variety of shades, the species also stand out for their variety of colors.

Planting rhododendron in the garden

When planting rhododendron in the garden, you must follow certain guidelines on when and where to plant rhododendron, how to do it correctly, and how to prepare the soil.

Did you know?Arboreal rhododendron is the national flower of Nepal. In this country, rhododendron is consumed in the form of pickled flowers and in the form of juice.

When to plant rhododendron

It is recommended to plant rhododendron in the ground from early April to mid-May, and from September to November. But in fact, this can be done at any time during the growing season of the plant, in addition to the flowering period of the rhododendron, and a couple of weeks after flowering ends.

Where is the best place to plant rhododendron on the site?

It is better to plant rhododendron in a shady place, on the north side of the house. The soil should be loose, acidic, well-drained, rich in humus. When the groundwater in your area lies at a depth of less than one meter, the plant is planted on a raised bed. When planting rhododendron, it is also important to pay attention to neighboring plants.

It is not advisable to plant rhododendron close to trees that have a superficial root system, since they will take all the nutrients from the plant. Undesirable neighbors should also include birch, willow, maple, chestnut, linden, alder, and residents of the site near which rhododendron can be planted include apple trees, pears, pine trees, spruce trees, larch trees, and poplar trees.

How to prepare the soil and plant rhododendron

First of all, prepare a hole for planting. The hole is dug approximately 40 cm deep and about 60 cm in diameter.
Then prepare a mixture of eight buckets of high-moor peat and three and a half buckets of loam (loam can be replaced with two buckets of clay). Mix this mixture thoroughly, pour it into the hole, and compact it well.
After this, dig a hole in the soil the same size as the root ball of the seedling.
Before planting directly, place the rhododendron seedlings in water and keep them there until air bubbles stop releasing.
Place the seedling in the hole and fill the hole with substrate to the very top so that the root collar is level with the surface of the area, compacting it to eliminate all voids.
Water the plant generously, and mulch the soil around the trunk with peat, moss, sawdust, oak leaves, or pine needles, in a layer of about 5-6 cm.

Important!If the seedling has a lot of flower buds, then it is better to remove them so that all the plant’s forces are directed to the rooting of the rhododendron, and not to its flowering.

Combination of rhododendron with other plants and use in landscape design

Rhododendron will find its place in landscape design of almost any style. The plant looks excellent as a tapeworm, and in group compositions, and in the latter case it goes well with conifers and other types of flowering plants. It is best to select species with which rhododendron grows in its natural environment - pines, larches, ferns, junipers, and others.

Rhododendron is perfect for decorating rocky gardens and alpine hills. Low-growing species of rhododendron with different flowering periods are suitable for this. You can arrange them to decorate rocky slopes with gentian, mountain pine, and heather.

Medium-sized species of rhododendron are often used in group plantings in the form of living fences, with the selection of the desired shades of the plant. For example, rhododendrons with yellow flowers go well with those shrubs that bloom in red and bright orange flowers, and rhododendrons with purple and pink flowers go well with plants that bloom in white.

Shrubs planted on the lawn or along garden paths and borders look good, especially when decorating a parterre lawn, although in this case only mature rhododendron shrubs (at least ten years old) are suitable.

When creating group compositions with rhododendrons, it is recommended to combine evergreen species with deciduous ones, while correctly “mixing” plants of different heights. Tall shrubs look better in the center of the composition, and low-growing ones at the edges.

Proper care of rhododendron in the garden

Caring for rhododendron consists of the usual procedures for plants: fertilizing, watering, spraying, weeding, pest and disease control, and bush formation.

Important!Loosening the soil around the plant is prohibited, much less digging it up, since the roots of the rhododendron are located too close to the surface. For the same reason, it is better to remove weeds manually, without using hoes.

How to water

Rhododendron requires atmospheric and soil moisture more than other plants, especially when buds form and during flowering. You need to water it regularly, and in dry weather you should also spray the plants with water. Proper watering also affects the formation of flower buds of next year's rhododendron. Water the plant with soft water(settled, thawed, or rain), which can be softened with a handful of high-moor peat, thrown in a day before watering.

The frequency of adding liquid is determined by the condition of the leaves: for example, when they are dull and have lost their elasticity, then the plant is thirsty. When watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of 20-30 cm.

Important!When watering, you should not flood the rhododendron roots, because they are very sensitive to excess moisture. You can find out about an excess of liquid by drooping and curled leaves.

How to feed the plant

The first fertilizing of rhododendron is done in early spring, and the last one at the end of July, at the end of the flowering period, when young shoots begin to grow. You can use semi-rotted cow manure and horn meal to feed the plant. Rhododendron prefers liquid fertilizers, so the manure is poured with water (ratio 1:15) and left to brew for a couple of days. Before fertilizing your rhododendron, it should be watered.

If we talk about mineral fertilizers, then in order not to disturb the reaction of the environment (rhododendron grows in acidic soils), it is best to use superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, low concentration magnesium (1.2:1000), and an even weaker solution of potassium fertilizers.

The optimal feeding regime involves the application of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers at the rate of fifty grams of magnesium sulfate and fifty grams of ammonium sulfate per square meter (fertilizers are applied to the soil in early spring), and at the end of the flowering period (early June) - per square meter there are forty grams of ammonium sulfate and twenty grams each of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. In July, only twenty grams of potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added per square meter.

Did you know?Honey from the nectar of some types of rhododendron has hallucinogenic and laxative properties. Even the ancient Romans and Greeks spoke about the side effects of rhododendron honey.

How to prune rhododendron

Rhododendron requires minimal shaping and pruning as its bushes naturally form into the correct shape. However, from time to time you will need to trim too tall, frozen or old shoots, which will help rejuvenate the rhododendron. Rhododendron shoots are pruned in early spring, and the cutting areas are treated with garden varnish (but only where the thickness of the branches reaches 2-4 cm).

Within a month, the dormant buds on the shoots awaken, and a renewal process begins, which lasts for a year. Severely frozen or very old bushes are pruned at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground - one half of the bush in the first year, and the second the next.

Important!Rhododendrons have a characteristic feature: one year they bloom and bear fruit quite generously, and the next year - much more modestly. To get rid of such frequency, it is necessary to break off the wilted inflorescences immediately after flowering. Then the rhododendron will use strength and nutrition to form flower buds for next year.

Preparing for winter and sheltering rhododendron

It is necessary to prepare rhododendron for winter in advance. To do this, from the end of summer you should stop feeding the plant with nitrogen and switch to potassium fertilizers (this will help the ripening of late growths). You can also add colloidal sulfur to the soil, which will acidify the soil and slow down the growth of fungi.

Rhododendron bushes can be treated with any of the available fungicides. In dry autumn, the plant should be watered before frost sets in, but in rainy autumn, additional watering is not needed. Evergreen species of rhododendrons especially need moisture.

As soon as serious frosts occur, you need to insulate the root zone of the plant. This can be done by mulching with a layer (10-15 cm) of peat, pine needles, or dry leaves. This is done in late autumn. Light frosts are not very dangerous for the plant, but covering rhododendron bushes too early can lead to damping off of the root collar and death of the plant.

Now, actually, regarding the construction of a shelter for rhododendron. First you need to make a frame from strong wire, and install it before the ground freezes. Its dimensions should be 15 cm larger than the plant itself, so that the branches of the rhododendron do not touch the arches.

When the air temperature drops to -10°C, the frame should be covered with protective material (polyurethane foam, polypropylene foam), and if the material is not too dense, then it can be folded in several layers (lutrasil, agrotex, spandbond and others). In the event that the coating begins to allow moisture to pass through, you will have to put a plastic film on top. The material is firmly fixed on the frame, and the bottom along the entire length is sprinkled with soil.

There is no need to rush to remove the cover from the rhododendron as soon as the sun warms up. In March, the plant is still at rest and cannot independently absorb moisture from the frozen ground, and rhododendron leaves can get burned by the bright rays of the sun. Therefore, you will have to wait until the soil has completely thawed and warmed up, because only then can you remove the cover from the rhododendron, and it is advisable to do this on a cloudy day. In the first days after removing the cover, it is better to shade the plant to avoid the harmful effects of the sun.

Did you know? North America is considered the birthplace of the rhododendron, and the large-leaved rhododendron is the state symbol of Washington.

With proper planting and subsequent care, this delightful ornamental plant will simply become an integral part of the composition in your garden.

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Growing rhododendrons and caring for plants

Planting and replanting rhododendrons

Feeding

How to propagate rhododendrons by layering

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Nuances of flower care

Irrigation mode and features

When is the best time to prune a plant?

Protection from pests and diseases

Feeding and choice of fertilizers

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

The most popular garden varieties

The soil

Where is the best place to plant rhododendron?

Feeding

Mulching

Basic rules for successfully growing rhododendrons in the Moscow region

Bottom line

Growing rhododendrons and caring for plants

Planting and replanting rhododendrons

Feeding

How to propagate rhododendrons by layering

Conditions

Choice

Varieties of Finnish selection

How to grow

Two-faced Janus

How to plant rhododendron

Good neighbors for rhododendrons

Bad neighbors for rhododendrons

How to make rhododendron bloom

Feeding

Spring care

Pruning rhododendrons

Caring for rhododendron in autumn

Correct choice of planting material

Planting rhododendron in the garden

When to plant rhododendron

Where is the best place to plant rhododendron on the site?

How to prepare the soil and plant rhododendron

Combination of rhododendron with other plants and use in landscape design

Proper care of rhododendron in the garden

How to water

How to feed the plant

How to prune rhododendron

Preparing for winter and sheltering rhododendron

Planting and caring for rhododendrons in spring

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