Caring for climbing roses should begin with choosing the appropriate place for planting them; not every site is suitable for these amazingly beautiful flowers; climbing roses have certain requirements for their care, taking into account the length of the branches. Basically, this type of rose is popular in regions with mild winters; growing in cold climate zones requires special insulation for the vines.
What conditions do climbing roses need for active growth?
It is believed that all types of roses need attention, but when caring for a climbing rose, even before planting, you need to try to provide for its requirements:
- the soil at the planting site must be permeable, water should not linger in the root zone, otherwise the roots will begin to rot and the plant will disappear;
- since roses are light-loving, it is best to plant them on the south side so that they have enough sunlight in the first half of the day, while the rays are not scorching, it will be difficult for the plant to stay in the sun all day;
- roses love a lot of air, they can easily tolerate a light breeze, but they will need to be protected from northern and northeastern winds; it is undesirable to plant them on the corners of buildings and in draft areas;
- Loams are most suitable for soil structure If the soil is heavy, add sand and humus; if the soil is sandy, add a little clay along with humus.
A distance of at least half a meter must be maintained between the place where the rose is planted and other plants, walls, and other objects; for comfort it needs free space.
How to care for a climbing rose after planting
Considering that all necessary requirements before landing have been met, caring for a climbing rose in the first year is based on regular watering, preventive measures for diseases, preparing young lashes for winter.
Young seedlings require sufficient moisture, and since their roots are still small and do not penetrate deep into the soil, the seedlings initially need daily watering. So that the number of waterings can be reduced and moisture preserved, the soil around the bush is mulched.
It is better to water in the morning, trying not to wet the leaves, the soil under the bushes will warm up during the day, the roots will not get supercooled, as with evening watering, while the air temperature is not yet high enough. Be sure to water at the root; sprinkling methods cannot be used, otherwise the rose will be susceptible to fungal diseases.
There is no need to fertilize the climbing rose for the first year, because nutrients were added during planting, and the young plant has enough of them; in this regard, care is easier. Only closer to autumn should the bushes be given potash fertilizer to help them prepare for winter.
What is necessary when caring for a climbing rose in the fall
With appropriate care, the climbing rose should bloom in the second year after planting, provided that last year's shoots were properly prepared for wintering in the fall.
It is important to know that the formation of flowering in a climbing rose occurs on overwintered shoots; these lashes are in their entire length and you need to try.
While the plant is young and its branches are pliable, no special work is required:
- It is enough to remove the lashes from the supports and give them time to assume a horizontal position.
- Roll into a loose ring, tie with synthetic twine, place on spruce branches or a lattice of boards, and cover with non-woven material.
- If the temperature drops significantly, if there is no snow, the rose is additionally covered.
Caring for a climbing rose in the fall, which is already several years old, is complicated by the fact that many shoots appear, they become thick, and they must be bent to the ground in several steps so as not to break them. Then they are collected with a rope, pinned to the ground with wire hooks, be sure to place spruce branches under the whips to avoid contact with the ground, and cover them with spruce branches and lutrasil on top, protecting them from frost.
For planting roses, it is best to choose an open, level, illuminated place, protected from northern winds. The optimal depth of groundwater is 1.5-2 m. Roses should not be planted under trees or in low areas where cold air and melt water stagnate, which lead to plant rotting and fungal diseases. It is not recommended to plant young plants in places where roses previously grew. If it is not possible to choose another location, then the soil layer should be replaced to a depth of 50 cm.
How and when is the best time to plant climbing roses? © rosebond
In the conditions of central Russia, it is more reliable to plant roses in the spring, when the soil warms up to 10-12 °C, but before the buds open. You can also plant in the fall, at the end of September. At the same time, it is important that the roses have time to take root, but the buds on the shoots do not begin to grow.
The soil for roses is prepared in advance, for spring planting - in the fall or a month before planting. During this period, the soil components will mix well and it will settle. Depending on the type of soil in the garden, you should prepare a soil mixture. For sandy soils - 2 parts of turf soil, 1 part of humus or compost and 2 parts of powdered clay. For loamy soils - 3 parts sand, 1 part each humus, compost and turf soil. For clay soils - 6 parts of coarse sand, 1 part each of humus, compost, turf and leaf soil.
Climbing rose. © gardeningknowhow The soil for roses should be slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5). The following fertilizers should be added to the soil mixture per 1 square meter. m: 0.5-1.0 kg of ash, 0.5 kg of phosphate or bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and lime from 0.5 to 1.0 kg depending on the acidity of the soil. First of all, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are needed.
In a place intended for planting roses, dig a hole 60x60 cm in size and 70 cm deep, the top fertile layer is laid on the edge of the hole. A drainage of pebbles, crushed stone or broken brick is placed at the bottom, then a layer of up to 40 cm of prepared earthen mixture with fertilizers is poured and a fertile layer of soil is covered on top.
The day before planting, seedlings with an open root system are placed in water for 12-24 hours. Immediately before planting, cut out broken, dry shoots. When planting in spring, healthy shoots are shortened to 10-15 cm, leaving 2-4 buds. For climbing roses, the shoots are left 35-46 cm long, for miniature and park roses they are slightly shortened. If roses are planted in the fall, then the shoots are pruned only in the spring, after the plants open.
Climbing rose. © peganum The tips of the roots are trimmed to living white tissue. A seedling prepared for planting is dipped into a clay-manure mash, to which growth regulators can be added to promote rapid rooting.
Roses are planted in holes 30 cm deep and 60 cm wide, so that the grafting site is 5 cm below the soil level. An earthen mixture of 2 parts garden soil, 1 part humus and 1 part peat is poured into the hole in a mound. The seedling is placed on top of an earthen mound, the roots are evenly spread and covered with earth, making sure that there are no voids. The earth is carefully compacted. After planting, the seedling is watered abundantly in several stages and hilled up.
climbing roses- these are types of rose hips and some varieties of garden roses with long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the Rosehip genus and occupy one of the leading places in the vertical gardening of gazebos, walls and buildings, combining perfectly with architectural forms of large and small sizes. Climbing roses are indispensable when creating decorative garden structures such as pyramids, columns, garlands, arbors and arches. They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, so they are as popular as any bush or indoor rose.
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Planting and caring for climbing roses
- Landing: from the last ten days of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
- Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
- Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, diffused light or partial shade in the second.
- The soil: optimal - moisture-permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
- Watering: once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water on each bush.
- Feeding: bushes of the first year are fed only in August with potassium fertilizer, bushes of the second year are fed with full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 feedings per season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same regime, but exclusively with organic matter. During flowering, roses are not fertilized.
- Garter: as a support you can use a fence, a house wall, a dry tree or special structures - gratings, arches and arcs made of metal rods. The shoots are tied to the support with twine.
- Trimming: in spring and autumn.
- Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting.
- Pests: aphids, spider mites, thrips, roseate sawflies, leaf rollers, cicadas.
- Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, koniothyrium, gray mold, black spot.
Read more about growing climbing roses below.
Climbing roses - description
Giving a general description of climbing roses is too difficult a task due to their enormous diversity, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses accepted in international floriculture practice.
The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or Rambler roses, are plants with long creeping or arched flexible bright green thorny stems up to five meters or more in length. The leaves of the Rambler climbing rose are leathery, shiny and small. The flowers are slightly fragrant, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences and located along the entire length of the shoot. The abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most varieties are frost-resistant and overwinter well under light shelter.
Plants of the Rambler group originated from species such as the Vihura rose and the multifloral rose (multiflora).
As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid tea, remontant roses and floribunda roses, a group of climbing roses with shoots up to four meters long was formed, which were called climbing roses - Climber, or climbing large-flowered roses - climbers. Roses of this group bloom profusely with large flowers - from 4 cm in diameter or more - collected in small loose inflorescences; many varieties bloom twice per season. The shape of the flowers resembles hybrid tea roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.
The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered bush roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Climings differ from the producing species only in their stronger growth, later fruiting and even larger flowers - from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many climbing varieties bloom repeatedly. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild, warm winters.
Planting climbing roses
When and where to plant climbing roses
All types of roses are quite capricious - it’s not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses must be thought out to the smallest detail, and growing climbing roses should begin with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chance for fungal diseases to settle on the roses, but the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon the area with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays.
In addition, the place where climbing roses grow must be protected from the cold north and northeast wind, and the location of a climbing rose on the corner of a building is undesirable due to drafts that depress the delicate plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - for planting roses, a strip of land fifty centimeters wide is enough, provided that the nearest wall, plant or any other object is no closer to the rose than half a meter to a meter.
The soil for climbing roses must be permeable, but where groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially constructed elevations - the root system of climbing roses sometimes goes two meters deep. To avoid stagnation of water in the roots, roses are planted in an area located on a slope, at least minimally. Of all types of soil, loam is most suitable for climbing roses.
Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of a spade bayonet, and clay is added to sandy soil, and in order for the soils to become fertile, humus or humus must be added to them along with bone meal as a phosphorus fertilizer . It is necessary to prepare the area for the rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.
As for planting dates, in temperate climates it is best to plant roses from the last ten days of September to mid-October. You can plant roses in the spring - from mid-April to the end of May.
Planting a climbing rose in autumn
Before we move on to describing the planting process, it makes sense to talk about what planting material to prefer. Both seedlings of self-rooted roses and seedlings of roses grafted onto rose hips are available for sale.
What's the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from self-rooted roses in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, the scion of a varietal climbing rose is grafted onto the root of a rose hip. Therefore, planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of a grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface level.
A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultivated part of the bush, and the rosehip roots, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will become depleted and eventually die, since the cultivated part of the seedling is evergreen, and rosehip is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between the scion and rootstock will lead to a sad end if planted incorrectly.
Seedlings of climbing roses with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove leaves from the shoots, trim immature and broken shoots with pruning shears, dusting the cuts with crushed coal, shorten both the roots and the above-ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds from the grafted seedlings located below the grafting site so that rose hips do not develop from them. After this, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing them in a three percent solution of copper sulfate.
Planting holes for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance of at least a meter between them. The top, fertile layer of soil, removed from each hole, is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the holes, then the holes are well watered. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting treatment of rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay mash. Dip the roots of the seedling into the mash before lowering them into the hole.
Place a mound of soil and manure mixture at the bottom of the hole, place a seedling on it, the roots of which have been treated with mash, carefully straighten the roots, cover them with the same mixture of soil and manure and compact the surface thoroughly. And remember: the grafting site of a rose grafted onto a rose hip should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root neck of a rose hip should be no less than five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, soil is added to the tree trunk circle and the seedling is hilled to a height of at least 20 cm.
Planting a climbing rose in spring
Climbing roses planted in the spring are two weeks behind in development compared to roses planted in the fall and require more attention. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, hilled high and covered with film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to faster survival of the seedlings. The film must be lifted every day for a few minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the ventilation time, since at the same time the seedlings are hardening.
When the threat of return frosts has passed, the film is removed and the area is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry, warm weather, after planting, mulch the tree trunks with peat or any other suitable material.
Caring for climbing roses in the garden
How to care for a climbing rose
Caring for climbing roses involves regularly watering the plant, fertilizing, pruning, fighting possible diseases or pests, and preparing for winter. Due to their structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought-resistant, and they do not need a lot of water - they are moistened once a week or a decade according to the principle “less is better, but more often,” that is, 1-2 buckets of water are spent on each bush. To prevent water from spreading, make a low earthen rampart around the tree trunk circle. Two to three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, the soil around the bush is loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm.
To reduce the labor intensity of caring for roses, mulch the soil around the tree trunk with peat, then you will have to water and loosen the soil much less often.
Young bushes are not fed until August, since the nutrients contained in the soil have not yet been used up; closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is added to the soil to prepare the roses for wintering. It is best to use an infusion of wood ash for these purposes. When feeding bushes in the second year of life, organic fertilizers are alternated with mineral ones, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic fertilizers, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water.
Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season it is necessary to apply at least five fertilizing applications. Fertilizers are not applied during flowering.
Support for climbing roses
The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a lattice or arch made of metal, wood or polymers, as well as metal rods bent in an arc as a support. However, no other plant will decorate a faceless wall or an unattractive building like climbing roses, planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall to which you will tie growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed.
However, you should know that on horizontally located vines flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically mounted ones - only in their upper part.
Plastic twine is used as fastening material, and in no case do they resort to wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire in paper or fabric. The stems are firmly attached to the support, taking care, however, that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, as they sometimes break under the weight of branches or the wind, and this can cause severe damage to the plant. You need to dig in the supporting structure no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.
Transplanting climbing roses
An adult plant is usually replanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose was chosen poorly. Climbing roses are replanted in the fall - in September or early October, no later, so that the plant has time to take root in its new location before winter. Sometimes transplantation is carried out in the spring, before the kidneys awaken. Before transplanting, roses are removed from their support, all young shoots are kept from the ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August to speed up the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed.
For climbers and climbers, all long shoots are shortened by half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system intact. Having dug up the plant, shake off the soil from its roots, cut off the torn and shaggy ends of the roots with pruning shears and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After you fill the hole with soil mixture, compact the surface and water generously.
After a few days, when the soil settles, add more soil mixture to level the surface of the area, and do not forget to hill the plant high.
Pests and diseases of climbing roses
Among insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the rose is not completely infested with aphids, try to control the pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemicals. You can remove aphids mechanically: hold a bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphids. This method is good if the aphids have just appeared, but if they have already taken root on your rose and have begun to multiply, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap dissolves, strain the solution and spray the roses with it.
If this measure does not produce results, buy an insecticide against aphids in the store, which is marked “for roses and grapes,” and treat the rose with it, choosing a quiet, windless evening for this.
As for spider mites, they appear on plants only during the dry, hot period if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on the underside of leaves, feed on their sap, entangling the leaves with cobwebs. The leaves of the affected plant acquire a silvery tint. In the fight against spider mites, folk remedies such as infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or shag have proven themselves well, after treatment with which 80 to 100% of insects die on the third day.
An infusion of wormwood is made as follows: half a kilogram of fresh wormwood is placed in a wooden vessel, poured with ten liters of cold water and left for two weeks to ferment, then the starter is filtered, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and the rose and the soil around it are treated with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treating the plant with Fitoverm will help, which can be repeated after two weeks if necessary. The method of use and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.
Roses also have other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leaf roller, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural practices, they will not become a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can plant marigolds around the rose - this proximity will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop the habit of carrying out preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux mixture in spring and autumn.
The most dangerous diseases for roses are koniothyrium, bacterial canker, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.
Bacterial cancer manifests itself as lumpy soft growths of varying sizes, which over time harden and darken from decomposition. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before purchasing, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulfate. If you find signs of disease on an adult bush, immediately remove suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate of the same consistency.
Koniothirium – a fungal disease, the so-called bark cancer or burn. It is discovered in the spring, when the cover is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots should be immediately cut off, capturing part of the healthy tissue, and burned to avoid infecting other plants. To avoid disease, you should stop adding nitrogen before wintering, replacing it with potassium fertilizers, which strengthen plant tissue. In addition, during thaws, you need to ventilate roses under cover.
Powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the above-ground parts of the plant, which over time acquires a brown tint. Increased air humidity and sharp temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering contribute to the appearance of the disease. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three percent solution of iron or a two percent solution of copper sulfate.
Black spot manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots with a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature falling of the leaves. Autumn feeding of roses with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the root, as well as three-stage treatment of the bush and the ground around it with a three percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate at weekly intervals, can prevent the disease.
Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative value, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken hold, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you find it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux mixture in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease in one go, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.
Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, a climbing rose does not bloom, and you study rose diseases and their symptoms with bewilderment, but cannot understand what the reason is. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - one that blooms poorly, and besides, the location or composition of the soil turned out to be not what the rose requires. Or maybe it’s because last year’s shoots didn’t survive the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will definitely find the reason.
Pruning climbing roses
When to prune climbing roses
Pruning climbing roses is necessary to form a crown, stimulate abundant flowering throughout the entire height of the bush and to support the decorativeness of the plant decorating a particular object. Proper pruning can ensure roses bloom virtually continuously throughout the growing season. Particular attention should be paid to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the shoots of the previous year.
Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbitten areas are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms during the growing season - once or more.
How to prune climbing roses
Roses that bloom once per season form flowers on the shoots of the previous year. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten restoration shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, so the basal shoots after flowering must be cut out at the root, and it is better to do this in the fall, when preparing the plant for winter. In repeat-blooming roses, within three years, flowering branches of different orders are formed on the main shoots - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, so the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the ground after the fourth year.
Reblooming bushes should have one to three annual restoration shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However, most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, from which only the tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in the spring.
Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted this or last year: until the cultivated scion acquires its own root system, the roots of the rosehip rootstock will produce abundant growth, which must be removed immediately. In a year or two, when the rosehip root dies, the shoots will begin to produce scion roots.
Propagation of climbing roses
How to propagate climbing roses
Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as by layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate a rose is by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. As for seed propagation, it is better to buy seed for this purpose in a store, since seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, it's worth a try for the sake of experimentation: after all, what are you risking?
Growing climbing roses from seeds
Buy in a store or collect rose seeds growing in your garden, place them in a sieve and dip them in a bowl with hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps disinfect the seeds and prevents the appearance of mold during the subsequent stratification of the seed. Then spread the seeds on cotton pads soaked in hydrogen peroxide and cover the top with the same peroxide-soaked discs, place these “sandwiches” in individual plastic bags, write the date and name of the variety on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator.
Check the condition of the seeds from time to time, and if you notice mold, soak them in peroxide again, replace the disks with new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them in the refrigerator again. After one and a half to two months, transfer the sprouted seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface with a thin layer of perlite to avoid infection with blackleg. Seedlings will need ten hours of daylight and watering as the soil dries out.
With normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for the seedlings, feed them with a weak solution of complex fertilizer, and in the spring plant them in open ground and care for them as if they were an adult plant.
Hello, dear friends!
Let's talk today about climbing roses.
Bright and charming, growing, they can cover the space allocated to them with a lush flowering carpet.
With their abundant flowering they delight the eye, and what a aroma it is - like in the Garden of Eden!
Find out how to plant such a rose, how to choose a support for it and how to care for it in our article.
Supports for climbing roses photo
Which rose support to choose? A great many of them were invented.
It all depends on your imagination and wallet. Look at the photos with supports for roses, maybe they will help you decide.
To scroll through the photos yourself, use the arrows when hovering over the photo or the circles at the bottom.
It should be remembered that each idea has its own types of roses.
If you want to plant flowers on a low fence, wall, or trellis, then large-flowered climbing roses, the so-called climbers, are suitable for you.
They grow up to two meters in height, have large fragrant flowers and fairly flexible shoots.
Climbing rambler roses are more suitable for all kinds of arches and tall structures.
They have much longer lashes than climbers, reaching a length of 4-5 meters. At the same time, their stems are flexible, they are easy to shape and bend to guide them along the same arch.
At the same time, ramblers have smaller flowers and their scent is weaker, although this in no way detracts from their beauty. Run along the support and overgrown, they look great.
Remember that a rose does not have natural “attachments” such as the tendrils of a grape or pea. It does not wrap around the support like some kind of bindweed.
To keep the rose on the supporting structure, you will need to attach the shoots yourself.
The flowering time for climbers is 20-35 days (they bloom in the first year), for ramblers - 40-50 days (they bloom on last year's shoots).
Planting a climbing rose
First, let's prepare a support for the rose.
In our case, this is a simple bamboo trellis, which will be used for rose shoots.
The best time to plant roses is May and June. But, if the seedling has a closed root system, then these can be planted throughout the summer.
Choose a well-lit, warm place.
Digging a hole for the plant. It should be slightly larger than its root system.
If you plant a rose in the summer, moisten the soil inside.
Inside the pit we pour nutritious soil: peat + leaf humus + sand in a ratio of 2:2:1.
Remove the plant from the container. We check the roots; any rotten or dry ones will need to be cut off.
A very important point: the place where the rose is grafted needs to be deepened by about 3 fingers.
What is it for? This is necessary so that the rose located on the rosehip can take root on its own. Without them, the plant will slowly but surely begin to die!
Burying also helps stop the growth of the rosehip shoots on which the rose is usually grafted.
How to find a vaccination site? As a rule, it is immediately visible; this is the thickest place on the rose trunk near the roots.
We pour nutritious soil around the earthen ball and compact it with our hands so that there are no gaps.
We shed the tree trunk circle well.
The top needs to be mulched with the remaining soil.
We attach the rosette to the support using garters.
Ready! As it grows, it will be possible to attach the lashes to the side columns, creating the desired composition.
Caring for a climbing rose
Lighting
A well-lit, sunny place is required.
Watering
Regular (every 7-10 days) a bucket of water, more often in hot weather.
Top dressing
The rose can be fed with organic fertilizers: diluted mullein, horse manure, compost.
As well as complex mineral fertilizers for roses.
In the first year, it is advisable not to get carried away with fertilizing.
Trimming
Different types of roses require different pruning approaches.
Climbers undergo only shaping trimming. Their shoots bloom again the next year, so they do not require pruning after flowering.
Ramblers are the opposite. Firstly, they bloom only on last year's shoots. This means that all young shoots must be preserved so that they bloom next summer.
Secondly, these roses do not bloom repeatedly on the same shoots. That is, a branch that has bloomed this year will need to be cut off, because it will not bloom again.
Reproduction
Climbing roses reproduce well by cuttings and layering.
Using a sharp knife, cut a stalk 10-15 cm long, remove large leaves from it.
We prepare a special place with light soil, with the addition of sand and without direct sunlight.
Place the cutting in the ground, moisten the soil and cover with a jar.
It will take a month to a month and a half for the cutting to take root.
You will see new leaves grow - this means the shoot has taken root safely and can continue to exist without the jar.
A very good method of propagation by layering. It is completely non-traumatic for the plant.
It consists in taking flexible side shoots and digging them in with earth.
In this case, the cuttings are not separated from the mother plant.
Due to the fact that it is in contact with the ground, it will take root on its own and form its own bush.
The place for layering must be prepared: dig a small ditch, fertilize it with a nutrient substrate so that the buried shoot takes root more readily.
How to cover a climbing rose for the winter
Thanks to its flexibility, the climbing rose easily bends to the ground, which makes it quite easy to cover it.
At a constant temperature of -5 degrees, the lashes are removed from the support, tied together and bowed to the ground in a single sheaf.
On a “cushion” of peat or sawdust. The plant is fixed in this position with slingshots, preferably wooden ones (metal and plastic freeze very much and can damage the plant).
We cover the rose with agrofibre in several layers on top. For the same purposes, you can use spruce spruce branches.
In the spring, at a stable above-zero temperature, we open the plant and attach it to a support.
Now you know how to plant a climbing beauty and take care of it.
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We wish you great success in working with roses, lush and beautiful flowering! See you in new articles!
Luxurious perennials can turn even the most abandoned garden into a cozy corner of nature. You will learn from this article how to properly plant and care for such beautiful plants.
Lushly blooming plants always require a special approach and meticulous care. Only the correct planting technique, timely pruning and protection from pests with periodic feeding will help you grow a truly beautiful and healthy climbing rose with large velvet buds. A plant with proper care will delight you with abundant flowering throughout the warm season.
How and where to plant climbing roses
Wetlands and places in the shade cannot tolerate any roses, namely bush and climbing ones, they prefer sunny areas. The plant develops much worse if annual roses or uprooted perennials already grew in its place last year. It is better if there is a barn or other room nearby for winter storage of bushes.
Choose a place with at least a minimal slope, because stagnant water destroys all flowering plants. Close groundwater also contributes to the formation of a swampy soil structure. Therefore, when determining a place for roses, do not forget that their bush species have roots reaching 2 m in depth. If there is even a minimal risk of excessive soil moisture, it is better to give preference to higher elevations.
Bushy roses are often planted next to buildings in order to decorate them with a beautiful plant and give a more aesthetically attractive appearance to the facade. But such places are not very favorable and the flower is in danger of depleting its root system. To prevent this from happening, it is better to plant the bush 50-60 centimeters from the foundation, but tilt the growing branches towards the wall, forming an arch. Over time, the bush will crawl along the plane and give the effect you need. The shrub grows profusely, so it needs free space nearby from other green neighbors. It is better to plant at a distance of at least 50 cm in radius from the seedling. For example, you want to plant roses and clematis alternately, in which case a checkerboard order with a distance of 1 m between the bushes will do.
All climbing bushes require support. Its function does not necessarily have to be performed by a wall.
Perfect for:
- mesh boxes;
- arches;
- pergolas;
- fences;
- pillars;
- cones and other structures erected specifically to support the bush.
Mostly such structures are made of wood, but other durable elements are also suitable.
In what month is it time to plant
For the temperate climate of the middle zone, planting bushy climbing roses in open ground occurs in mid-autumn - late September, early October. In just a couple of weeks, the first healthy roots will form, which are already able to adapt to the soil until the first frost, and the plant will survive. In spring, the root and above-ground systems of the bush are already actively developing. By the time of flowering, the rose is at the peak of its strength and is not inferior in splendor to its more mature counterparts.
If you plant roses not in the fall, but in the spring, development will be significantly delayed - at least for half a month. Such a plant will be very fragile and will need more careful care.
Before planting, you need to shorten the seedling by several buds or buy a rooted plant in a special container from the nursery. In this case, planting occurs in open ground in late spring.
Processing of seedlings
If you neglect to treat plants before planting in open ground, their development will be inhibited and inferior. This applies only to those roses that you propagate yourself by cuttings, and do not buy ready-made in nurseries. Cuttings germinated at home are more susceptible to various kinds of manipulations with replanting.
Preparation takes place according to the following scheme:
- Soak the seedlings for a day in water. You can not only the roots, but the whole plant.
- Trim the shoots from the roots.
- Treat the cut areas with crushed charcoal.
- Lubricate the roots with a healthy mixture, which can be purchased at a specialty store.
Pruning consists of shortening 3-6 formed shoots, but at least 15 cm should be left on the bush. Weak shoots are completely removed. The root system is cleaned in a similar way: the crushed or long ones are removed, and those that are kept in a bunch remain.
After this treatment, the bush will actively develop and produce gorgeous buds during the flowering period.
You can make a mixture for treating roots yourself: clay, 1/10 mullein, 2 Phosphorobacterin tablets per 10 liters of solution.
Soil preparation
Loose, loamy and waterproof soil is the most suitable for plants of this type. Soil containing a fertile layer will be much more to the taste of a capricious rose than sand and clay. If the soil is not crumbly enough, add a little lime. This cocktail will be just perfect for a climbing beauty.
Fertilizers are selected individually, depending on the variety.
You need to care for ordinary bushy roses and climbing roses differently. If in the first case hilling is sufficient, then in the second case complete thermal insulation is required.
