Regular readers of our portal are well aware that as part of the project we are building a modern and energy-efficient house made of aerated concrete. After completion of the so-called work. “zero cycle”, which you can find in, we moved on to the next most important stage - laying aerated concrete walls.
The purpose of this material is to go beyond and, with the help of experts, tell you how to properly build a house from aerated concrete. In a master class format, professional builders will share with you the secrets of their craft. Namely:
- What tools are needed to build a house from aerated concrete blocks.
- How to lay the first row of masonry correctly.
- What to make jumpers and armored belts from.
Tools needed to build a house from aerated concrete
One of the key features of aerated concrete is the ease of processing blocks. Aerated concrete can be sawed, grinded, sanded, tapped, with an inexpensive set of simple hand tools in your arsenal. At the same time, when choosing a tool, you should remember that the quality and speed of work largely depend on its characteristics.
The minimum set includes:
- Trowel. Using this tool, an adhesive composition is evenly applied to the surface of aerated concrete blocks. The trowel ensures strict rationing of the mixture, which guarantees fine joints of the masonry. For convenience, speed and quality of work, the width of the working part of the trowel should correspond to the thickness of the aerated concrete block.
- Saw on aerated concrete. A saw for aerated concrete blocks is a hand tool - a hacksaw, which differs from a saw for wood in the thickness of the blade and the shape of the saw teeth.
Using a saw, you can cut an aerated concrete block in half, cut additional elements from the blocks, and make the necessary technological protrusions in the block.
- Mallet. A rubber hammer allows you to upset and level the stacked blocks vertically and horizontally without damaging their surface.
- Planer for aerated concrete. This is a special tool necessary for grinding down small irregularities and height differences in aerated concrete.
The saw blades are fixed in the working part (sole) of the plane. Due to the multidirectional position of the teeth, the tool grinds down the surface of the aerated concrete block without leaving deep grooves on it.
- Sanding board. The tool allows you to sand roughness on the surface of aerated concrete or rub the surface after using a plane.
- Bubble level. The tool is necessary to control the geometry of the masonry (the evenness of the plane of the laid blocks) both horizontally and vertically. The optimal length of the bubble level is from 600 to 800 mm.
- Wall chaser. The tool is used for quickly making grooves for laying reinforcement (reinforcing masonry under window openings), as well as for cutting cable channels for laying utility routes, for example, electrical wiring.
In addition to the above tools, to build a house from aerated concrete you will need:
- Spatula - it is necessary to remove excess mortar from the seams and grout the surface of the blocks from dirt and chips.
- Scrub brush - with its help All dust must be removed from the blocks, remaining after grinding and grouting surfaces.
- A square, which is used to mark places for sawing blocks with a saw on aerated concrete.
- Marking construction lace mooring.
How to correctly lay the first row of aerated concrete blocks
The most important stage in the construction of an aerated concrete house is correct laying of the first row of aerated concrete blocks, because from this depends entirely on the correct geometry overlying rows. The work is divided into a number of sequential steps, the first of which is the placement of waterproofing on the foundation.
Waterproofing material can be pasted, coated or rolled. Practice shows that the most technologically advanced in use is roll waterproofing, which is simply rolled out on the surface of the foundation.
Waterproofing is necessary to prevent capillary rise of moisture from the foundation into load-bearing walls.
Laying aerated concrete walls begins with laying corner blocks, but before that it is necessary to make markings in order to align the contours of the walls in accordance with the project.
To do this, stakes (so-called cast-offs) are driven into the ground at the corners of the foundation and a marking cord is attached to them with screws.
The laces at the corners should intersect at right angles. To check the geometry, the width, length and diagonals are measured (they must be equal).
Important: installation of cast-off is required. If you try to measure the geometry of the walls using blocks placed in the corners, they may move during the measurement process, and the result will be inaccurate.
One of the most common mistakes when installing cast-offs is the installation of pallets with blocks inside the perimeter of the foundation, for example, placing aerated concrete on a slab. As a result, it is impossible to accurately measure the diagonals.
After the waterproofing has been installed and the contours of the building have been stripped, we proceed to the second stage - measuring the difference in height of the foundation. To do this, you can use an optical or laser level, or get by with a regular hydraulic level.
The difference in foundation heights (between the highest point and the lowest) should not exceed 30-40 mm. If the height difference is greater, then it is necessary to level the foundation plane using a concrete mixture.
The third stage is laying corner blocks. Very it is important to lay corner blocks with millimeter accuracy. If you do not follow this rule and lay blocks with a height difference of even 2-3 mm, then as the walls are erected and errors accumulate at the finish, we will get a significant discrepancy in the level of the upper rows of masonry.
Vitaly Bykov
Unlike the foundation, where height differences may occur, aerated concrete blocks have high geometric accuracy. The manufacturing accuracy of an aerated concrete block is + - 1-2 mm. Because the foundation plane can vary by centimeters, we need to lay the first row of blocks in such a way as to level out this error and bring the entire row to 0 on the horizon. To do this, the first row of blocks is laid on a cement-sand mortar (cement-sand mortar) with a thickness of 2 to 5 cm. Moreover, the thickness of the mixture can vary depending on the unevenness of the foundation.
Having measured the difference in the heights of the foundation, we found the highest point from which we begin laying the corner blocks on the central substation. The intersection of the lace shows the location of the corner blocks. When laying the blocks on the DSP, they are pressed down with a rubber mallet.
The horizontality of the stacked blocks is controlled using a bubble level. Only after the corner stones have been accurately positioned and the mortar has set can you begin to fill the entire first row with aerated concrete.
After laying the corner blocks, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical deviations again. We are guided by the rule: “it’s better to try everything on seven times than to make a mistake once.”
To continue laying the first row, you need to wait until the DSP sets under the laid corner blocks. This may take 6-8 hours. If you start laying earlier, the corner blocks may move.
The laying of the remaining blocks is carried out along a stretched cord. At the same time, make sure that the blocks do not pull on the lace. It is optimal when a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the block and the tensioned thread. Otherwise, a displaced lace will lead to deviation of the entire row.
If the distance between the corner blocks exceeds 10 meters, then between them, so that the lace does not sag, a third is laid - an intermediate block, to which the thread clings.
Important: masonry on the central fiber structure is allowed only for the installation of the first row of aerated concrete blocks, which are in direct contact with the foundation. In the future, all work is carried out using a special adhesive for aerated concrete, which ensures a thin joint of the masonry of 1-3 mm and thereby minimizes cold bridges.
Before installing an aerated concrete block, it needs to be prepared. To do this, take a spatula and remove dirt from the block, brush off the dust with a brush.
Apply glue to the vertical seams using a trowel.
We install the block without connecting it to the already laid one. We level the block using a building level and, only after the block is leveled horizontally, we join it with the previous one, pushing it down with a mallet to get a single horizontal plane.
To fill the gap between the sides, into which a whole block cannot be laid, we cut out an additional block using an aerated concrete hacksaw.
The additional block is also placed on the DSP, and the ends are coated with glue.
As a result, we have an absolutely flat horizontal surface of the first row, in which the top is set to 0, and the difference is eliminated due to the DSP layer.
To begin laying the second row, you need to wait until the cement-sand mixture hardens and gains strength. This takes 6-8 hours. If the thickness of the CPS is more than 2 cm and under unfavorable weather conditions (dampness, rain, low temperatures), it may take 24 hours for the mixture to dry completely.
Vitaly Bykov
Careful preparation of the first row ensures high laying speed and accurate geometry of all subsequent rows.
Before laying the second row, the surface of the first row of blocks is prepared (leveled) using an aerated concrete planer and a sanding board. The plane grinds down uneven areas at the joints of the blocks.
Sanding with a sanding board in a circular motion gives the blocks a final horizontal surface. Due to the abrasive, small circular grooves remain on the block, which ensures better adhesion of the adhesive composition to the aerated concrete.
Laying load-bearing and non-load-bearing partitions, manufacturing lintels and armored belts
Load-bearing partitions are laid when laying the first row. Non-load-bearing walls (partitions) can be installed after the load-bearing walls have been erected.
Non-load-bearing partitions are attached to load-bearing walls using flexible special metal connections. Bonds are established after applying the adhesive composition by pressing into the composition. Flexible connections for aerated concrete are made of stainless steel. They have perforation, which ensures better adhesion of ties in the masonry.
Bandaging of load-bearing walls and load-bearing partitions is carried out over the entire width of the block (wall thickness) through 1 row.
The depth of the vertical (die) ligation of blocks in the wall should be at least 125 mm.
Important: to lay aerated concrete on a thin adhesive joint, use a trowel. Before laying, the blocks must be dust-free.
Vitaly Bykov
In order for the adhesive composition to completely fill the vertical seam, the end of the block is coated with the mixture not over the entire surface, but not reaching 1-2 cm to the bottom. The stacked block is placed on its edge at an angle to the installed one and only after that is lowered down. As a result: the glue in the vertical seam is evenly distributed over the entire surface. If you apply glue to the entire end, then when the block is lowered, the excess glue will be squeezed out, and the thickness of the vertical seam in the lower part will increase.
When constructing window sill openings one row before creating the opening, it is necessary to reinforce the masonry. To do this, the masonry is grooved (the size of the groove is 40x40 mm), reinforcement with a diameter of at least 8 mm is placed in the groove, and the groove is then filled with DSP.
Aerated concrete is the stumbling block of a considerable number of construction-related disputes. Despite the battles, many professional builders believe that it is a good, although not ideal, building material. Just like everyone else. To decide to build a house from aerated concrete blocks, you need to remember that the material has many useful qualities and has already become quite widespread.
Selection of wall aerated concrete (gas silicate) blocks Source stroyres.net
A little history
For centuries, people have used natural building stone - tuff - to build houses. It was valued for its lightness, ease of processing and ability to retain heat well. Since the 19th century, scientists have tried to reproduce these qualities by experimenting with concrete mixtures. The consistent work of several researchers is considered important milestones on the path to creating modern aerated concrete:
Engineer Hoffman(Czech Republic). In 1889, he conducted a series of experiments with cement mortar, adding acids and salts to it. During the solidification process, the released gases formed a characteristic porous structure.
Americans Owlsworth and Dyer. In 1914, they were the first to use aluminum and zinc salts. The reaction proceeded with the release of hydrogen, which formed a homogeneous porous structure. The method laid the foundation for future technology.
Architect Erickson. In 1922, the Swede patented a method for producing cellular concrete using aluminum powder, becoming the godfather of modern autoclaved aerated concrete. The first aerated concrete for the construction of industrial and residential buildings began to be produced in 1929.
Modern house project made from gas silicate blocks Source buildhouse.info
In the USSR, industrial production of cellular concrete was also established in the 30s. The first autoclaved block aerated concrete was produced in Riga in 1937; buildings made from these blocks still stand in the city. In the post-war 50s, aerated concrete helped restore destroyed infrastructure, both in the USSR and in Europe. In modern Russia, the needs for the material are met by more than 80 modern manufacturing plants.
Composition and technology
Aerated concrete is a representative of the category of cellular concrete, building materials that differ in properties and operating characteristics. The unifying characteristics are the porous structure, low weight and low density. The following components are used in the production of aerated concrete:
Astringent. Portland cement.
Filler. Quartz sand.
Gas generator. Aluminum powder or paste.
Industrial purified water.
Enhancement Additives. Lime, gypsum, industrial waste (slag, ash).
Autoclave curing blocks Source ar.decorexpro.com
The production of aerated concrete begins with mixing the ingredients and pouring the mixture into molds. The chemical reaction produces hydrogen. The gas increases the volume of the mixture (swells it) and forms pores. After the reaction is completed, the mixture sets, it is removed from the molds and cut according to the standard. Further processing occurs in two ways. Depending on which drying method is used, one of two types of aerated concrete is obtained:
Autoclaved(synthetic) hardening. The blocks gain hardness (steamed) in autoclaves (devices that create high pressure in an environment saturated with water vapor).
Non-autoclaved(hydration, air) hardening. The blocks harden at atmospheric pressure in drying chambers.
Classification
According to the standard, cellular concrete (including aerated concrete) is divided into three types according to its functional purpose:
Structural. Density ranges from 1000–1200 kg/m³.
Structural and thermal insulation. From 500 to 900 kg/m³. Brand D500 indicates that in 1 m³ part of the volume is filled with 500 kg of solid material, the remaining volume is air filling the voids (cells).
Thermal insulation. From 200 to 500 kg/m³.
Using blocks increases construction speed Source geo-comfort.ru
Specifications
Aerated concrete serves as an example of the optimal relationship between the main performance characteristics:
Durability. Despite the low density (specific gravity), the strength is sufficient for the use of aerated concrete in the construction of load-bearing walls.
Lightness. The lightness of aerated concrete is due to porosity, which can reach 85-90% of the volume of the material.
Low thermal conductivity. Good thermal efficiency is also a result of the porosity of the material. Aerated concrete boasts the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, 0.12 W/m°C (dry).
Homemade mistakes
Having discovered on the Internet many tips for producing aerated concrete with your own hands, and making sure that they are quite feasible, many decide to start their own production. At the same time, home craftsmen do not consider it necessary to strictly comply with technological standards, but they always find people willing to purchase the product at dumping prices.
Small production - no guarantee Source beton-house.com
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of aerated concrete blocks from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.
The use of high-quality raw materials and technological equipment in factory production allows us to obtain aerated concrete products with stable physical and chemical characteristics:
Exact dimensions and correct, with minimal defects, shape.
Given physical and mechanical parameters.
Uniform material density, which is confirmed visually (uniform distribution of air cavities).
Chemical inertness of the material, which is confirmed by laboratory control throughout the production cycle.
The conditions of handicraft production cannot provide manufacturability and control at the level of a modern workshop. Hand-made aerated concrete blocks are distinguishable to the naked eye: the cells (cavities) are distributed unevenly, and the geometry leaves much to be desired. Sometimes such products smell noticeably of chemicals (often lime). Using home-made blocks will most likely reduce the cost of construction, but is guaranteed to become a source of serious problems:
Blocks with arbitrary density and composition have increased fragility and are highly likely to begin to crack in the first year of operation of the house.
Rough seams will cause heat loss Source bg.decorexpro.com
Blocks with non-ideal geometry it will not be possible to place it on special glue; you will have to use mortar. Seams with a thickness of 1 to 2 cm will become cold bridges, reducing the thermal efficiency of housing and promoting freezing of the walls.
Blocks with residual undecomposed lime will have a persistent chemical odor (and affect the health of people living in the house). Excess lime can start the process of corrosion of the metal in the wall.
Advantages and disadvantages of the material
A country gas silicate house has the same strengths and weaknesses as the source material. Based on the structure of aerated concrete, many advantages can be identified:
Cheapness. Due to the low consumption of cement in the production of products.
Construction speed. The blocks are significant in size and weigh 3-5 times less than a brick of the same volume. This allows you to build 1 m² of wall in 20-25 minutes, which is unattainable in the case of brickwork.
Construction costs. Savings are achieved through the rational use of working time and building materials.
Aerated concrete can be processed manually Source kamtehnopark.ru
construction service of houses from aerated concrete blocks
Low thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, aerated concrete is 2-3 times better than brick. A wall made of 37.5 cm thick blocks retains heat as well as 60 cm thick brickwork.
Ease of processing. Blocks can be easily cut with any hand tool, sawed, milled and fined. This flexibility allows you to create complex architectural projects.
Fire resistance. Aerated concrete is characterized by a high degree of fire resistance and belongs to the flammability group NG (non-combustible). When exposed to a flame with a temperature above 100°C for two hours, an aerated concrete wall begins to lose strength and crack to a depth of 3-4 cm (enough time to leave the house and call the fire brigade). During this time, the wooden house will burn to the ground.
Vapor permeability. High. Due to the presence of interconnected voids, the material successfully regulates the humidity in the room (breathes).
Environmental friendliness. The lime and aluminum powder used in production are converted into inert solids after a gas formation reaction. Therefore, the material, made according to all the technology requirements, does not emit any volatile substances into the air.
This is interesting! On various construction forums you can often find references to a certain table of coefficients of environmental friendliness of materials. There are even some numbers given - for example, for expanded clay this coefficient is 20, for brick - 10, aerated concrete - 2, and the leader and standard is wood - its value is 1. In practice, the existence of such a table is not confirmed in any official document , although if we consider materials specifically in terms of the release of any substances into the air, then there is some truth in such a division.
Durability. In the Scandinavian countries, Germany and France, there are many houses made of aerated concrete, built 40-50 years ago and still showing no signs of destruction. This durability is due to the quality of the factory-made material and installation carried out in compliance with the technology.
Post-war aerated concrete house Source bwncy.com
Frost resistance. Aerated concrete resists cyclic freezing well.
Features of aerated concrete blocks determine the weak points of the structure:
Flexural strength. Aerated concrete is characterized by a relatively low coefficient of ultimate deformation (0.5–2 mm/m). Foundation deformation beyond these limits leads to the appearance of cracks in the wall of the house. The means of combating will be the construction of a solid foundation with monolithic lining or mesh reinforcement, tying the floors and reinforcing the masonry. It is also not recommended to build private houses higher than 3 floors.
Fasteners. Nails, anchors and screws fit perfectly into an aerated concrete wall, but they stay there disgustingly. A characteristic disadvantage of all cellular concrete is corrected by the use of special fasteners for porous surfaces (steel, nylon, frame). You should also pay attention to the installation of windows and doors (if installed incorrectly, they may become loose over time).
Adhesion(adhesion to finishing materials). It is not high, so before plastering the wall must be prepared (reinforcement or a layer of primer).
External finishing of the facade with plaster Source hug-fu.com
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Shrinkage. The shrinkage of non-autoclaved aerated concrete reaches 2 mm/m, autoclaved - up to 1 mm/m.
In order for the constructed house to serve for a long time and without problems, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material:
Hygroscopicity. A porous wall is capable of absorbing and releasing moisture (like, for example, a wooden wall). To protect the facade from excess moisture, the walls are lined, preferably with ventilation.
Heating. A house made of aerated concrete can significantly reduce heating costs, but it must be taken into account that the higher the grade of aerated concrete, the worse its thermal insulation properties. Energy efficiency can be improved by simple plastering.
Ventilation. Since aerated concrete is quite large building blocks, the likelihood of poor-quality installation increases, even taking into account the excellent geometry of the products. For example, if the glue is too thick, it does not completely fill the space between the blocks and through gaps form. If there is such a possibility, then after construction it is recommended to conduct a thermal imaging inspection of the house to know whether there are joints and seams that need to be sealed.
Aerated concrete cottage with natural stone cladding Source pinterest.ch
Myths about technology
Many have encountered not the most flattering reviews about aerated concrete and the performance characteristics of houses that had the misfortune of being built from it. Such judgments and conclusions often have little to do with reality and are caused by a misunderstanding of the characteristics of the material and technology. Most often you can hear such “expert” opinions:
Aerated concrete walls are prone to cracking. Cracks can appear not only in an aerated concrete wall, but also, for example, in brickwork. After the examination, we have to admit that in most cases the cause of the defect is not the quality of aerated concrete. Most often, the culprit is a poor-quality foundation, the design of which did not take into account the characteristics of the soil and the location of groundwater. Another reason may be reinforcement errors (both walls and foundation). The quality of aerated concrete will play an unfortunate role only if garage-made material was used.
Aerated concrete buildings require insulation. If, when developing a house project, the thickness of wall structures was laid taking into account the standards of SNiP 23-02-2003 (on thermal protection of buildings), additional insulation will not be required. But since aerated concrete houses definitely need façade finishing, insulation is often installed “at the same time.”
Finishing requires the installation of a ventilated facade Source bankfs.ru
Aerated blocks for the home are a very fragile material, which splits when hit by a hammer. The same brick can also be split by applying a certain force. According to SNiP, for low-rise construction (up to three floors), aerated concrete blocks of the D500 brand are recommended, which are quite durable and at the same time light and warm. The D400 brand material is more fragile and warm, the D600 brand material is, on the contrary, stronger and colder. Houses built taking into account technological features cope well with the resulting loads, even in seismically active areas.
Aerated concrete absorbs moisture like a sponge, therefore, a newly built facade requires prompt waterproofing. One of the main features of the material is its gas and vapor permeability, which, however, is not very different from the characteristics of wood. Like wood, aerated concrete is able to absorb moisture and then return it, regulating the microclimate in the rooms. Both materials have a humidity corresponding to the humidity of the surrounding air, and since concrete does not dissolve in water, aerated blocks are not in danger. External walls will not be excessively moistened in cottages with year-round living and properly equipped cladding (which does not impede moisture circulation).
Video description
About construction from gas silicate blocks in the following video:
The aerated concrete block gets wet and submerged in water, therefore not suitable for the construction of suburban housing. Strange logic, if you remember that the foam remains on the surface of the water, and the brick instantly sinks to the bottom. The degree of water absorption of an aerated concrete wall during operation is in no way related to buoyancy; these are two different characteristics.
Living in a house with aerated concrete walls is dangerous, since the material contains lime and aluminum, and the rooms sometimes smell of lime. These elements are part of the original mixture; then they enter into a chemical reaction (transformation reaction) with other components. The output is artificial stone, aerated concrete, which lacks the original elements. Industrial production is characterized by precise dosage of starting substances and high-quality drying, as a result of which only safe silicates remain in the material. The smell of lime appears in garage aerated concrete when the components are measured “by eye” and more lime is added than necessary.
Design features of a typical aerated concrete project Source stroyres.net
When developing a project for a country house made of aerated concrete parts, they rely on the characteristics of the material. To make housing comfortable and durable, the following points are taken into account:
Wall thickness. Determined by constructive necessity. The optimal thickness of load-bearing walls in the climatic conditions of central Russia ranges from 300-400 mm, interior partitions - 100-150 mm.
Suitable foundation. For aerated concrete walls, a reliable and stable foundation is important. A monolithic slab base is usually recommended; It is advantageous to use it on various soils.
Video description
About a typical house made of aerated blocks in the following video:
Roof. Pitched or flat, the roof needs proper installation on aerated concrete walls. A lightweight structure with metal tiles, corrugated sheets or bitumen shingles as roofing is preferred.
The need for conservation. Laying of autoclaved aerated concrete is not carried out at temperatures below -5°C. If cold weather sets in, the house is preserved; It is desirable that by this moment it already has ceilings above the first floor. The walls are covered with a waterproofing film, just like pallets with blocks (it is better if they are packed in factory-made shrink tape).
Arrangement of the roof of an aerated concrete house Source bankfs.ru
Subtleties of design
Aerated concrete is a material that offers the widest possibilities for architectural solutions; one only has to remember the famous Dancing House in Prague. The following requirements apply to the design of a country cottage made of aerated concrete:
Originality. Details of the architectural style can convey the taste of the owners and emphasize their individuality. An exclusive look is often achieved by combining modern and traditional styles.
Practicality(functionality). Currently, houses are being designed from aerated concrete with a thoughtful layout and with any additions - a garage, a terrace (including on the top floor), an attic, a glazed bay window or a balcony.
Comfort. The concept of comfort can be different, and the interior of a house made of aerated concrete blocks can be decorated in any style, from traditional classic to ascetic minimalist. Often the customer’s choice is a cozy country style, picturesque Provence or an energetic loft.
A modern project with oriental notes Source pinterest.com
Projects and prices of turnkey aerated concrete houses
If you decide to build a house from aerated concrete, its price will in any case be more affordable than a similar brick cottage. Many variables will affect the cost:
Project type. You can buy a popular standard project (with ready-made documentation) or order an individual development that takes into account personal preferences.
Brands of building materials. The price depends on the manufacturer (domestic or foreign) and the volume of purchase.
Complexity of the architectural solution. Determined by the area and number of floors of the project, as well as the type of foundation and roof.
Relief of the site. If there is a slope on the site, the project will have to be modified.
Video description
About thermal imaging inspection of a house made of aerated blocks in the following video:
By choosing to build a house from aerated concrete blocks on a turnkey basis, you will be able to appreciate all the advantages of this service, because from the moment the contract is signed, all current issues related to the construction of the house become the concern of the contractor:
Inevitable improvements and changes to the project.
Geological and geodetic studies of the site.
Selection of workers and quality control of construction.
Construction work specified in the contract (from the zero cycle with laying the foundation to laying utilities and finishing).
Video description
Today we will discuss how to build an inexpensive house from aerated concrete. How much does a turnkey aerated concrete house cost in the following video:
Of course, you will be able to receive a report at any time or personally monitor how construction is progressing and how the agreed budget is spent.
Country house made of aerated concrete blocks, individual project Source bankfs.ru
When choosing a construction company, you should focus on the time of its existence, the number and quality of completed projects, and reviews from real clients. Companies with extensive experience have their own design bureau, permanent suppliers and professional work teams of various profiles. Construction companies that care about their reputation act according to a well-established scheme, prefer to maintain optimal prices and often have a system of discounts on materials.
Prices for the construction of country houses from aerated blocks in the Moscow region are as follows:
Area up to 100 m²: on average 2.25 - 3.700 million rubles.
From 100 to 200 m²: 4,150 - 5,200 million rubles.
From 200 to 300 m²: 5,560 - 8,670 million rubles.
Conclusion
When planning to build a country house from aerated concrete blocks, you need to be sure that the housing will delight you with comfort for many decades. Such confidence will be given by high-quality raw materials and a reliable construction company, whose specialists know and strictly follow construction technologies.Building your own home is always a labor-intensive undertaking that requires a large financial investment. The construction of houses from aerated block allows not only to minimize financial expenses due to the low cost of the material, but also to make the process of constructing a building as accessible as possible even for a novice builder. It is much easier to build a house from aerated concrete blocks than from brick or timber, as you will see after reading this article.
Advantages and disadvantages of aerated concrete
Aerated blocks, like any building material, have their pros and cons, which affect not only the construction technique of the building, but also its performance for many decades.
Advantages:
- Aerated concrete buildings are highly durable. Like brick buildings, they can last in excellent condition for more than 40 years
- High strength. Gas blocks resist mechanical damage well and are difficult to break or crumble.
- Fast construction speed. Aerated blocks are quite large in size, which significantly speeds up the pace of construction
- Cheap material. The low price of aerated concrete allows you not to save on materials and makes it possible to build cottages 2-3 floors high even for families with below-average incomes
- Low thermal conductivity. A house made of aerated concrete retains heat well and can provide a comfortable temperature in the apartment even on a cold winter day
Flaws:
- The cheapness of the material is due to the addition of a variety of: quartz sand, cement, aluminum powder and lime, so the material is characterized by low environmental friendliness
- Aerated concrete is vulnerable to moisture and if its surface is not treated with waterproofing, then mold may form on the walls over time
Once the construction project is known, it’s time to start purchasing building materials. To calculate the required amount of gas block, we first calculate the area of the walls: multiply the sum of the lengths of all walls by their height. For example, if the total length of the walls is 45 m and their height is 3 m, then the area of the walls will be: 45 * 3 = 135.
Since aerated blocks are sold by the cubic meter, it is necessary to multiply the area of the walls by the width of one block: 135*0.3=40.5. This is exactly how many cubic meters of aerated block will be required to build the wall.
When the calculation of all the necessary building materials has been completed, we begin preparing the construction site. First, you need to bring all necessary communications to the territory, such as water, gas and electricity. It would not be superfluous to fence off the areas and install lighting fixtures. Aerated blocks must be delivered in sealed packaging, which will protect the material from moisture and prevent it from collapsing during the initial stages of construction. After unpacking, aerated blocks must be stored under a canopy.
It is impossible to build a durable house from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands unless you spend time building a stable foundation. The best choice would be a strip monolithic foundation. This type of foundation has high strength characteristics, but it is not recommended for use on soil with close groundwater.
A monolithic foundation is created in several stages:
- Trenches up to two meters deep and 40 cm wide are dug along the entire perimeter of the building. The bottom of the trench must be cleared of soil and covered with 10 cm of sand for better adhesion of the concrete solution
- We install the fittings. Pins with a diameter of 1 to 2 cm are used, which are installed vertically at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. To make the structure monolithic, all the pins are fastened together in a horizontal plane with reinforcement
- We install the formwork. The formwork can be assembled from available materials, the main thing is that its height is at least 30 cm and is the same in all areas of the foundation
- We begin pouring the concrete mixture
When laying load-bearing structures, blocks up to 400 mm in size should be used. Despite their dimensions, aerated concrete blocks are very light, so the construction of walls can be completed in two weeks. As for internal partitions, the requirements for them are slightly less and blocks up to 250 mm in size will be sufficient - they will provide excellent sound insulation between separate rooms in the house.
Particular attention should be paid to the type of material for fastening gas blocks. Today, glue is increasingly preferred, but a house made of aerated block itself is not highly environmentally friendly materials, so using glue that releases toxins in construction is especially not recommended. It is best to use old reliable cement mortar, it is easy to prepare, safe and cheap.
In masonry, special attention should be paid to the first row, since the correct construction of the entire structure as a whole depends on it. First, we cover the entire surface of the foundation with waterproofing; you can use roofing felt. We pour cement-sand mortar and lay the first row of gas blocks on it. We use cement-sand only when laying the first row, so that it is easy to adjust the height of the walls on each side of the building. In order to carry out the laying with greater precision, we stretch a fishing line from the outside of the base, along the entire perimeter of the building. It is along the boundaries with the fishing line that we will be guided when building walls.
We start laying from the highest corner of the building. The thickness of the mortar on which the aerated concrete block is laid must be at least 10 mm, but there are no restrictions on height, so you can vary the thickness of the mortar during construction in order to maximally level the plane of the first row of aerated concrete blocks. During the installation process, use a building level to make sure that the surfaces are even, and in case of deviations, a few hits on the block with a rubber mallet will allow it to become in the desired plane. During the installation process, there is a high probability that a small gap may appear between the last pair of aerated concrete blocks in a row; to fill it, you need to cut off a piece of aerated concrete using a grinder or a simple hacksaw and insert it into the empty space in the hole. At the end of the first row, you can pull the fishing line diagonally from opposite corners, this will help make sure that the plane is straight and the row is laid correctly.
At the end of the laying of the row, we rub over all the unevenness, remove excess mortar, dust and dirt from the blocks. Before laying a new level of blocks, you must wait at least an hour for the solution to “grab” the block. We repeat this masonry procedure for the construction of each new row.
The optimal height for installing a window is row 4, but in order to install a window opening, it is necessary to additionally strengthen the wall using chiselling. To do this, take a special device - a fence cutter and use it to create two parallel lines with a small recess on the third row. We lay reinforcement inside each of the lines and secure it with cement mortar.
Gradually, the height of the walls rises and the work process approaches the stage of installing window and door lintels. Lintels are used to strengthen the wall above the opening. You can buy it ready-made or make it yourself. We recommend purchasing U-shaped jumpers from the store. They resemble ordinary gas blocks with a hollow space inside into which the reinforcement is placed. Such lintels should be installed in a simple manner: the required length of the lintel is made up of several blocks, fixed above the opening, a reinforcing layer is laid inside it and filled with mortar.
During operation, the building is subjected to multiple natural loads, and in order to increase the load-bearing capacity of the walls, it is recommended to lay reinforcement in the wall every 3-4 rows. The reinforcement is laid using the same technology that we used to strengthen the wall a couple of paragraphs higher in the text.
To install floors, you can use aerated concrete or hollow concrete slabs. Aerated concrete slabs differ from simple concrete slabs in greater strength and low thermal conductivity. To install aerated concrete slabs, it is necessary to install a distribution belt between the load-bearing walls on which the slabs will be installed.
A do-it-yourself aerated block house has one big advantage – the pliability of the material. Aerated blocks are easy to saw, so there are no problems when creating openings of complex shapes. To install wires in walls and aerated block ceilings, it is enough to use a fence cutter. Despite the fact that an aerated concrete block can be easily drilled, this material has excellent load-bearing capacity and will guarantee a durable and strong structure.
We strengthen the last row of aerated concrete blocks with the help of a reinforced belt, in which we pre-install studs for attaching the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat is necessary for attaching the wooden rafters of the roof of the house to it.
If the house is residential, then it is recommended to use a roof with an attic, which will give the building an additional floor at minimal financial costs; the attic can be used as a living room, an office for work or a warehouse for storing things.
After erecting the roof frame, it must be additionally sheathed with a thermal insulation and waterproofing layer. Thermal insulation material is placed between the slats; it is best to use stone wool, because it is easy to install, retains heat well and is low cost. If the room is residential, then you can separately make a layer of soundproofing material under the wall. We lay waterproofing material on top of the insulation, which we cover with a layer of vapor barrier film.
We lay the final roofing covering on the roof; you can use slate, metal tiles, corrugated sheets, ceramic tiles and many other materials. They all differ in price and performance characteristics.
Each aerated block wall must be treated with a special type of plaster for aerated blocks; with its help, the building material can become more durable, as well as improve the thermal and waterproofing of the walls.
Finishing of the facade begins only at the very end, when the roofing work is completely completed. For cladding, you can use any material: brick, decorative stone, siding and many others.
Why do many people choose aerated concrete when building a house? Because it has a lot of advantages, namely: optimal price, good noise and sound insulation, easier installation compared to brick, fire safety. There are, of course, disadvantages. One of them is the hygroscopicity of aerated concrete, i.e. its ability to absorb moisture. Therefore, when building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and finishing of the walls in order to avoid local destruction of this material in the future. More about all this in our article.
Foundation
Before you start building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands, all the necessary calculations are carried out to determine the type of foundation and its depth. The foundation of a house made of aerated concrete must be strong, reliable and solid. In the photo you can see a monolithic foundation.
Depending on the depth of soil freezing and heaving forces, which can be determined from the soil map of the region, the recommended foundation depth is determined.
When calculating the width of the base, it is necessary to take into account if future work on facing the facade with brick is planned. Ideally, the width of the base should be 5 cm wider than the wall.
When arranging the height of the plinth, it is necessary to completely exclude the possibility of contact of aerated concrete blocks with melting snow and water on the site.
Laying aerated concrete
Before starting work on laying aerated concrete yourself, it is necessary to carry out work on shut-off waterproofing of the foundation from the first row of masonry. The base is insulated from the aerated concrete masonry with roofing felt or more modern materials. Before starting laying, the blocks must be dried. They have the declared strength and thermal conductivity in a dry state.
Therefore, during masonry work, aerated concrete blocks must be unpacked immediately before work. The masonry must be done using special masonry adhesive. The use of cement mortar leads to the appearance of cold bridges in the walls, which can increase the cost of the project due to the need for additional insulation. Each row must be checked for level. Unevenly placed blocks can create uneven stresses, leading to cracks.
Building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands involves creating armored belts. To create them, manufacturers produce special hollow blocks with grooves for laying reinforcement. Armored belts are usually laid in the first row, in every 4th row of masonry and on top of window blocks.
Also, walls with increased, for example, wind loads need to be additionally strengthened. The row must be monolithed, after which the floor slab is laid. If you plan to build an aerated concrete house with your own hands, you definitely need to study SNIPs.
The thickness of internal and external walls and internal partitions is usually regulated by regulations depending on the area in which construction takes place. The blocks are easy to process: they are chipped, milled, sawn. It is very convenient to provide for the installation of reinforcement during masonry to secure window and door openings.
Insulation and waterproofing
Additional wall insulation is usually not necessary. The thermal conductivity of aerated concrete is equal to the thermal conductivity of wood; in addition, it is a breathable material that provides a comfortable indoor microclimate.
Thermal conductivity deteriorates only when wet. However, this only applies to literally being in water for a long time. Normal precipitation does not affect the technical characteristics of the blocks.
To protect against getting wet, it is enough to correctly install a drainage system from the house: canopies and ebbs. The main bridges of cold in the house are window and door openings and the roof. Thermal insulation in these places is done using conventional technologies.
Exterior and interior decoration
For exterior finishing, it is necessary to select vapor-permeable materials that will not prevent the escape of steam and moisture from inside the room to the outside. If a place is characterized by long slanting rains, then it is better to make a curtain facade, but in this case it is necessary to provide for the presence of a ventilation gap. Materials with high vapor permeability are used. Plaster is usually suitable for these purposes.
Aerated concrete and gas silicate are essentially the same material - autoclaved cellular concrete. In Russia, blocks are mainly produced using a mixed cement + lime binder. We practically do not produce pure silicate concrete. When people say “gas silicate,” they usually mean autoclaved aerated concrete.
Cellular concrete has been used for a long time, but with the development of technology, the scope of application is expanding. If previously a house was rarely built from aerated concrete, today this material is used in 15-20% of new buildings. They build both temporary residence dachas and permanent houses. Everything is explained by the availability of the material at a price, good thermal characteristics, easy and quick installation.
Foundation for a house made of foam blocks
As you know, foam concrete blocks are lightweight. On the one hand, this is good: the work is easier and the foundation for such a building is required with a lower load-bearing capacity, and, therefore, cheaper. But, on the other hand, when movements of the foundation occur, the walls, due to their low weight, cannot “press down” the processes like a heavier brick or compensate for them like wood. Which means that the requirements for the foundation for an aerated concrete house are increased: even minor miscalculations lead to the appearance of cracks, which are very expensive to “treat.” Therefore, it is better not to save on the project: it will cost more.
What type of foundation to use
What kind of foundations are made for a house made of aerated concrete? On soils not prone to heaving, this is usually done. The depth is below the freezing level of the soil and nothing else. Due to its design, the reinforcement of the tape will compensate for all heaving loads that arise.
If the freezing depth of the soil is 2 meters or more, the strip foundation becomes too expensive. In this case, when soils with normal bearing capacity occur at this level, aerated concrete is made under the house. In this case, you can’t do without a grillage: it compensates for uneven movements that often occur on a pile foundation: one pile has risen more, the other less. Without a grillage, this will lead to cracks, so installing one for walls made of this material is mandatory.
The most expensive, but also the most resistant to damage is . It is placed on soils with low bearing capacity - peat bogs, fine-grained loose sand. It may turn out that it is cheaper than a strip foundation at a depth of more than 2 meters. In this case, a slab is more appropriate if, due to geological features, it is impossible to make a pile foundation.
Prefabricated foundations are not recommended for this type of material. Most of the problems arise with houses made of aerated concrete on foundations made of FBS, building blocks or bricks. Due to the fact that they themselves have a tendency to form cracks, in tandem with cellular concrete this turns into a serious problem: too many and often cracks appear. Therefore, do not use prefabricated foundations.
And once again we draw your attention, only a designer with the results of geological studies of the site can answer with a 100% guarantee what kind of foundation is needed for a house made of aerated concrete.
With or without base
Another feature of aerated concrete is its high hygroscopicity. As humidity increases, it loses its heat-insulating properties, and prolonged exposure to water can lead to partial destruction of the material. Therefore, a house made of aerated concrete must be placed on a plinth, making several layers of cut-off waterproofing. And this is in addition to all measures for waterproofing the foundation, which are also determined by geology and groundwater levels.
Aerated concrete house: laying blocks
It all starts with preparatory activities:
- Checking the horizontalness of the foundation. If there are deviations of more than 30 mm, they must be eliminated. If there are small humps, it is easier to cut them off and fill the holes with mortar. If the surface is too uneven, additional formwork is installed, the surface is filled with concrete and leveled. Just keep in mind that the minimum thickness of the concrete layer is at least 3 cm, and for leveling you need to either add plasticizers that improve spreading, or treat the solution with a concrete vibrator. Work can continue when the concrete gains 50% strength, which is 7-9 days at a temperature of +20°C, and 14-20 days at lower temperatures.
- Cut-off waterproofing is installed. First, it is coated with bitumen mastic, and roll waterproofing is rolled out on top. And it’s better not roofing felt. It is, of course, cheap, but in its modern design it is ineffective and very short-lived. When the tapes meet, one overlaps the other by at least 15 cm.
At the preparatory stage, everything must be done with maximum diligence. The smoother the base, the easier the laying will be. We have already written about the importance of waterproofing: if you want a house made of aerated concrete to be warm, make sure it is dry.
Rules for laying aerated concrete blocks
Laying aerated concrete can begin on top of the cut-off waterproofing. It is carried out according to the same rules as brick: with horizontal ligation of rows. This means that the vertical seam of the bottom block is overlapped by the body of the block lying on top. The wall looks more beautiful if the seam is in the middle of the block, but the minimum offset is 10 cm.
Special glue is used for laying gas blocks. That's what it's called - for aerated concrete. It is applied in a thin layer of 1-2 mm using a special tool - a carriage with a serrated edge. Why is it advisable to lay just such a layer? Firstly, the glue is expensive, and secondly, it is a cold bridge, since its thermal conductivity is much higher than that of a gas block. Therefore, the specified thickness is optimal: it ensures a strong connection and minimal heat loss.
Tool
For uniform placement of glue there are branded carriages. They are a box into which up to a bucket of solution is loaded. Laying aerated concrete blocks with your own hands using a carriage is shown in the following video.
Carrying it up and down the walls is a dubious pleasure and is justified only for large volumes, when the entire bucket can be rolled along the wall at one time. Therefore, when independently building an aerated concrete house, simpler devices are often used - small manual carriages (look at the photo). As you can see, it looks like a scoop and is easy to make with your own hands from a piece of galvanized steel. The width is equal to the width of your block (exactly up to a millimeter, maybe 1-2 mm less). Teeth are cut along the edge (you can use a grinder), and a handle is attached. In principle, you can get by with a trowel and a large notched trowel, but the work will not be as convenient.
The second necessary tool is a saw. There is also a special one, but foam concrete can be cut perfectly with an ordinary handsaw with a well-sharpened tooth.
Carriage and saw - basic tools
You also need a piling device. According to the construction technology of aerated concrete, reinforcement is laid in every 4th row. For these rods, grooves are made in the body of the block. There is a special tool for this - a cutting edge on a handle with a rest for the second hand. You can also do something similar yourself.
Devices for transferring blocks are also needed. There are blocks with cutouts for arms, but they are more expensive, and the voids will then have to be filled with mortar. To transfer blocks with smooth edges, there are special pliers that work due to gravity.
In addition to all this, you need a container for mixing glue, a paint ladle, a mallet to level the blocks, a brush to clean off dust, a building level, a cord, a set of sandpapers or a special grater to level the surfaces. That's all the necessary tool. There is another interesting device - an angle that allows you to cut at right angles. In the photo it is near the helmet, but you can do without it if you wish.
Laying aerated concrete block
The technology for laying aerated concrete is simple: glue is applied in a more or less even layer to the bottom surface. Recommended layer thickness is 1-2 mm. With this application using a carriage, there is no excess glue, and it is rarely squeezed out. Glue is also applied to the side surface of the adjacent block. This can be done using a trowel, spatula, or directly with a carriage. The excess is also removed with the serrated side of the tool. When applying glue, try not to let it flow over the edges of the block: it is difficult to remove it from a white surface.
All of the above applied to masonry with special glue. Some people use cement-sand mortar to save money. You can’t lay it out in a thin layer, so there will be excess. They can be removed with the edge of a tool, but the masonry still looks untidy. It’s better not to talk about the thermal parameters of such a wall at all: the cold bridges are very wide.
Before installation, the block is dusted: take a brush and go over all surfaces. If the weather is dry and hot, the block is sprayed with water. You can apply it with a wide brush, or with a spray bottle. The cleaned and moistened block is lifted and placed on the glue, close to the already installed one. Using a mallet, knocking on the clean side surface of the installed block, achieve the required seam thickness of 1.5-3 mm. Excess glue that is squeezed out is removed with a spatula.
Now we take a level and level the block on a vertical and horizontal surface: we knock on the appropriate places with a mallet. It may take some serious effort. We select squeeze-out glue, if available.
This operation is repeated over and over again. Simple but monotonous work. But you can build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands without any construction skills. The main thing is to follow technology.
Useful devices and useful improvements to masonry technology in the next video. People build a house from aerated concrete for themselves with their own hands; they do everything efficiently, but quickly, using interesting devices. The solution is applied using a modified notched trowel. Small plates are attached to the sides; they prevent the solution from draining outside the block. The design is shaped like the letter “P”, but with short “legs” and a wide “back”; a spatula handle sticks out from the middle.
The structure is placed on a block, glue is poured along the wide side. The edges or the handle are pulled along the block. At the same time, glue is squeezed out from under the teeth. It is immediately distributed evenly. Using the same device, glue is applied to the side, but not of the installed block, but of the block being installed. The laying speed with this method is high.
The device for transferring the block is very interesting. This is a metal strip with two welded handles. Of course, each time it is screwed with two self-tapping screws to the block, but it is more convenient to carry than just holding the edges. In general, a useful video, they just align the blocks “by eye.” This “trick” is hardly worth adopting, but otherwise the method of laying aerated concrete blocks in the video is very good.
Laying the first row of aerated concrete
During any construction, it is very important to correctly set the first row: we will then focus on it when building walls. That’s why we do everything very carefully, double-checking it several times. We place the first row of aerated concrete blocks on a cement-sand mortar, all the rest - on glue. Attention! The side surface is coated with glue: these seams should be normal - no more than 1-2 mm.
The corner blocks are laid out first. Very often their outer edge protrudes beyond the base. Firstly, the base will then be further insulated and finished, and this will significantly increase its thickness. A wall hanging over the plinth not only looks more organic, it also reduces the jamming of the plinth, and first of all, its junction with the wall, and for an aerated concrete house this is very important.
First of all, using a laser plane builder or a water level, we find the highest angle of the base. We start laying with it. The whole point of the first row is to align the blocks in a horizontal plane by varying the thickness of the mortar. During the preparation stage, the largest differences were eliminated, but the surface was still unlikely to be ideal. In order to make it easier to lay aerated concrete blocks in the future, the surface will be leveled.
Watch the video to find out how to find the highest corner of the foundation.
Therefore, at the highest corner of the solution we place the minimum amount. Lay out a layer of 0.5-1 cm, level it. We place the first block so that its outer edges protrude at least 50 cm beyond the base. As they wrote, this protrusion is not necessary, but it solves many problems, and, most importantly, it closes the joint with the base.
We take a level and, tapping with a mallet, level it in the horizontal and vertical planes. At the adjacent corner we perform the same operation, only the height of the block is adjusted according to the first one and for this we use a water level. To make work more convenient, the level flasks can be mounted on even boards of the same thickness. By installing one flask on one corner block, you can use the second to adjust the height of the other.
We repeat the same operation on the remaining blocks. One subtlety: we transfer the level only from the first block. This way the error will be smaller. After all the corner blocks are set (they are called beacons), a cord is stretched along their outer edge. Moreover, the cord marks the top edge of the block and all the others are aligned along it. Pull the self-tapping screw screwed into the block: it turns easily and holds well. You can screw strips into which self-tapping screws are screwed onto the blocks.
It is advisable to lay the masonry from two corners, moving towards the middle. This way there is a greater chance of avoiding distortions, which then have to be leveled by tearing off the already installed blocks.
Second and subsequent rows
Upon completion of laying the row, take sandpaper, a plane, and a building level and walk along the entire perimeter, removing too large differences in heights. This is an important point that allows you to use a minimum of glue. But minimal stitching isn't everything. If the height of each row is not equalized, local stress points will form in the wall, which, under minimal loads, can cause cracks to appear. Therefore, do not skip this stage.
Working with emery is not very convenient; there is a special grater for this purpose. She doesn't clog up like that. So everything is leveled out. Then they take a brush and walk around the perimeter again, sweeping away the dust. This stage should also not be skipped: the presence of dust significantly reduces the adhesion of the glue to the blocks.
All this in order to withstand the recommended layer of glue of 1-2 mm. The geometry of even the best blocks still has a run-up. Let the difference be 1 mm, but with such an amount of glue it is significant. Therefore, everything is aligned until it coincides completely.
Hired teams often skip this stage and add glue up to 5 mm or more in violation of the technical process. But such houses turn out to be cold, and the consumption of expensive glue is enormous. Average glue consumption per cubic meter:
- smooth blocks - 1.2 bags;
- with tongue and groove - 1 bag.
Laying the second and subsequent rows of aerated concrete blocks also begins from the corner, only the corner block is positioned so that the seam is offset. Now the adhesive composition is applied to all surfaces. The technology for laying an aerated concrete block is described above.
Reinforcement of aerated concrete
To increase the building's resistance to forces arising from soil heaving, longitudinal reinforcement of the walls is performed. To do this, longitudinal grooves are cut into the laid row of blocks using a special device. For thick external ones, two grooves are made for two rods; for jumpers up to 200 mm thick, one thread is used. They should be at a distance of at least 6 cm from the edge of the block. When cutting two grooves, it is more convenient to maintain the distance by placing a board: one groove on one side, the second on the other.
When the grooves are ready, dust is swept out of them with a brush. Then they take 8 mm reinforcement and pre-lay it into prepared grooves. They arrange it so that there are solid rods in the corners: they are simply bent in the right place. The joints of the reinforcement should be located approximately in the middle of the block, but not in the corners of the building or at the junction of the walls.
One rod is placed on top of the other, laid side by side. The overlap should be 10-20 cm. To prevent the ends of the reinforcement from sticking out in the openings (doors and windows), small pieces can be bent by making small grooves under them.
When everything is laid out, take out the rod, moisten the groove with water and fill it halfway with glue or concrete mortar. And it is necessary to clean and wet it, otherwise the solution will not adhere to the block material and the reinforcement will be of no use. We embed the rod into the glue, then we use a spatula along the grooves, removing excess and leveling the layer.
Such reinforcement is carried out in the first row, and then in every fourth. With regular dressing, even if the foundation settles unevenly, a house made of aerated concrete will stand normally.
But this is not all reinforcement. Above the window and door blocks, as well as in the last row of the floor, more reinforcement elements are required, but more serious, with 4 rods connected into a single system. There are special U-shaped blocks for this. They are placed as the last row under the ceiling of the second floor or under the roof slab. One side wall of the block is thick, the second is thinner. The thick wall is turned into the street, the thin wall into the room.
A continuous reinforcing belt is knitted from 4 reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It is knitted according to the same principle as in a strip foundation (you can read it). An example of a reinforcing frame is in the video.
The finished elements are placed in the cavity of the block and poured. After the concrete reaches 50% strength, the floors can be laid or the roof truss system can be installed.
Reinforcement of window openings of aerated concrete houses
According to the technology, if a house made of aerated concrete has a window opening wider than 1.8 meters, the penultimate row of aerated concrete blocks is additionally reinforced. To do this, two longitudinal grooves are made, which are at least 0.5 m longer than the window opening. To be on the safe side, you can make the projections larger - up to 1 meter - and reinforce them under each window opening.
The technology is similar to the wall one: two grooves into which the rod is placed are filled with glue or mortar. The last row of blocks is installed on top of the reinforcement, and subsequently the window frame is placed on top of it.
The general principles of working with foam concrete blocks are described in the following video; the principles of reinforcing window and door openings are also covered
How to winter without heating
Often it is not possible to build a house from aerated concrete in one season; as a result, the box - with or without a roof - goes into the winter without heating. To prevent cracks from appearing in the walls after wintering, a whole range of measures is necessary:
- If groundwater is high, it is necessary to make a drainage system before the onset of cold weather.
- Waterproofing and external insulation of the foundation and plinth (for the middle strip of EPS with a thickness of at least 100 mm).
- Insulated
- Insulating the floor in the basement.
All these measures are designed to prevent freezing of the soil under the foundation and, in particular, under the basement floor. If the soil under the slab freezes, it will begin to bulge in the most unloaded place - in the middle. If brick and other heavier materials simply press down the bulging, then the gas silicate does not have enough mass. Therefore, all the measures listed above are mandatory.
In addition to them, in cold weather it is necessary to maintain a positive temperature in the basement - at least to heat a couple of potbelly stoves. If there is no way to organize heating, you need to load fallen leaves into the basement in the fall. The layer should preferably be large - at least 20 cm. In combination with thermal insulation, it will prevent the slab from freezing. Otherwise, it will bulge, resulting in the walls cracking - under tensile loads, a gas silicate wall cracks not at the seams, like a brick wall, but along the “body” of the block. It looks scary, although with a normal foundation (if it remains intact) everything is not so scary and with heating in all subsequent seasons this may not happen again.
