Dutch heating. Instructions for self-assembly of a Dutch brick oven

Dutch stoves are familiar to everyone - so much so that the word "Dutch" does not recall a resident of the Netherlands at all, but a tall, slender heating structure, which usually stands not in the center of the room, but closer to the corner. Among the stove-makers, Dutch stoves are respected, and are still being built. The Dutch women work on a variety of fuels, and to this day they heat many houses. One of the strong advantages of this design is the real opportunity to build Dutch ovens with your own hands, while mastering the basic skills and basics of the furnace business.

The date of birth of the Dutch stove is called - approximately the middle of the fifteenth century. It turns out that for three hundred years this stove has become the most popular and favorite heating and cooking stove in America and Europe. The reason is a huge number of rare virtues. The design of the stove is a long narrow “column”, it has plasticity - the dimensions can be changed in order to build the stove into the place allocated to it in a small seaside house. If in the Russian expanses it is possible and necessary to dance from the stove, in the homeland of Dutch stoves, the place for dancing was extremely limited, and living conditions were no less harsh. And a lot of sea and little land, as they say. One consequence is the particularly ingenious and subtle design of the Dutch oven and the ability to fit it into a very limited space. Furnace masters of our time also build thin Dutch ovens into houses, but they use computer programs for this.

The limitation in the land has become one of the reasons for the growth of houses in height. The stove was built along with the house, and had the same height. Even when using floors made of wood, without a concrete monolith and precast concrete, the stoves were erected according to the height of the house and calculated so that the load on the floor from the stove blocks was acceptable.

About the device of the Dutch oven

The efficiency of thermal energy release in such units is due to their design. The Dutch stove is distinguished by an artificially elongated channel for the movement of flue gases. The chimney channel here is a brick pipe, which has multiple bends, where the smoke passes, changing direction, and, when moving, gives off thermal energy with almost no residue to the walls of the channels and the body of the furnace itself. The chimney discharges already cooled flue gas into the atmosphere, which does not have sufficient temperature to release condensed moisture to the inner surfaces of the chimney. This plus is two in one, and without the complexities of heat engineering and thermodynamics, but only due to the design and calculation of the lengths and bends of the chimney channels. Simple and brilliant. But this simplicity requires exact observance of the established dimensions of the channel in terms of size, shape, as well as technological methods of masonry work in the walls and nodes. If the verified dimensions are violated, the oven will not work correctly.

Some differences in the design of Dutch ovens

• The furnace can have both a round and rectangular shape in plan, but the furnace section is always rectangular.
• Classic Dutch models do not have blowers and grates. The sequential movement of flue gases is organized in six channels, flue gas moves in three channels in the lower level, and in three channels in the upper level, giving off heat in a certain sequence.
• The oxygen necessary for the processes of oxidation-combustion, the combustion chamber receives to a limited extent - only through the door of the fuel compartment. Grid-irons and blowing chambers are abolished, which makes it possible to maintain smoldering processes in the combustion chamber. Solid fuel smolders slowly, but there are no intense combustion processes.
• A pure Dutch classic - a narrow, high, economical heating stove, in fact, a budget heating option. All the frills of additional functionality - water tanks, ovens, stove benches and stoves for cooking are later developments. In modern times, not only the listed additions are used, but they even connect Dutch stoves with a heating water circuit, embedding pipe heat exchangers inside the combustion chambers.
• Dutch stoves can be placed on reinforced concrete floor slabs, provided that the bearing capacity is confirmed by calculation. But the weight of the Dutch gives such opportunities. Economical stoves with a small wall thickness of half a brick quickly heat up and begin to heat the room without requiring large fuel loads.

About the advantages of the Dutch oven

1. A huge variety of additional, as they say now, options. Possible designs of Dutch ovens with ovens and hobs, with built-in hot water tanks and even with stove benches. The accuracy of compliance with masonry work technologies is important. But the change in design does not affect the efficiency of work.
2. Additional features require structural additions and changes, but the effective operation of the oven remains constant, regardless of all additions. For this reason, Dutch heating and cooking stoves are very common - with hobs and ovens.
3. Small sizes and compactness of furnaces. The minimum dimension for the area of ​​​​the horizontal section is called 50 * 50 cm.
4. The need for materials is substantially less for a small oven, with all the financial implications. You can save money and have the same heating from the furnace, which took 0.65 thousand pieces. bricks, compared with a large Russian stove of 1.30 thousand pieces. bricks.
5. A significant reduction in the load on the interfloor ceiling and the ability to build stoves on floors, and not just on the ground floor, as in the case of a Russian stove.
6. The efficiency of the Dutch stove does not depend on the height of this stove - the advantage of the design, confirmed by practice.
7. The furnace is structurally thin-walled, has optimal shapes and, as a result, is almost insensitive to thermal shocks and temperature slow changes. As a result, the risks of thermal deformations are almost zero.
8. For the furnace department of the Dutch woman, high-quality oven bricks with refractory properties are needed. But the furnace body and chimneys can be laid out in height even from hollow and slit-like bricks, which is impossible for most furnace designs.
9. The flue pipe has a relatively simple configuration, and the temperatures in it change smoothly, without shocks and sudden jumps. This makes it possible to integrate hot water tanks or ovens into the ovens, which gives additional options.
10. A thin-walled Dutch oven heats up quickly and cools slowly, giving off heat gradually. It is possible to fully load the furnace and enter the main heating mode immediately after summer downtime. Heating is not required.
11. In terms of heating efficiency, the indicators speak in favor of a slender Dutch woman, even when compared with Russian stoves. One tall Dutch woman heats a house up to 60 m2 in size, and a large Russian stove heats a room of about 50-55 m2.

From the foregoing, it is too early to draw conclusions about which furnaces are better. Dutch stoves have disadvantages, and these disadvantages return respect for Russian stoves.

About the disadvantages of Dutch stoves

1. The efficiency of the Dutch women is constant and does not depend on their height dimensions, but its value is small - only 35-55%. It is simply incomparable with Russian stoves.
2. The optimal mode of operation is smoldering, but not fast combustion. Fuels that quickly release heat and have a small amount of combustion products - reed and straw briquettes, brushwood - are not applicable and will not provide effective heating and the ability to cook food.
3. The device of the internal channels has the peculiarity that after heating it can cause a very fast, instant cooling of the stove if the view remains open after the firebox. This rapid cooling stimulates reverse thrust. The pulling in of street air is a real phenomenon.
4. The double firebox of a Dutch oven in one day is a sad reality. But at the same time, it is impossible to heat too often - since the processes of slow smoldering are associated with the release of CO (carbon monoxide). Additional fireboxes mean more carbon monoxide entering the premises. In the context of CO, Russian stoves are much safer, because their regime excludes smoldering processes.

The Dutch oven is in demand and popular due to its ingenious design, compactness and lightness, and many other advantages, and occupies its special place among heating and cooking oven units. Comparing it with other types of stoves may be slightly incorrect, since all types of stoves have both pluses and minuses, and the choice of a stove model depends on the most necessary parameters.

The Dutch oven has a lot of advantages in its design and significance. It is very possible to fold such a structure with your own hands. A person who is swift, accurate and attentive does not need to be a master - a bricklayer or a builder. It is enough to delve into the very idea of ​​\u200b\u200bcreating a Dutch woman, follow the instructions of specialists and study in detail all the moments of addition. Then you can decorate your interior at the highest level.

Features of the Dutch

Before you decide to fold yourself, you need to decide what qualities it can have. It is known that this is a heating stove with developed vertical chimney channels, designed for heating. Now there are a large number of modifications, therefore, depending on the chosen design, you will receive certain advantages and additional functionality. It is known that it differs from others in its compactness and relative lightness.

Different versions may have both a hob and chimney channels of varying complexity, which will provide an increased thermal effect. The description of the classical circuit says that it should be:

• rectangular
• have a chimney outlet
• tiling

Moreover, the latter, for a real Dutch woman, were mandatory, the firebox was a deaf chamber, did not have a grate and a blower, which appeared over time.

Advantages of the oven

1. In the absence of significant errors, changes in the design do not adversely affect its performance.
2. Considerable potential for modifications and upgrades, which are easy to produce.
3. If necessary, it can have amazingly small dimensions, it is 0.5x0.5 m in diameter.
4. A small amount of brick is required. A large Dutch woman will require 650 pieces, when a small Russian one will require from 1300. At the same time, she will have the same productivity as a large Russian, which will require from 2500. Relatively small mass. In some cases, this allows you to place it on the intermediate floor.
5. The ability to significantly increase the height, and therefore the vertical channels of the chimney, without loss of efficiency.
6. Not demanding on materials. Only the firebox is laid out of refractory bricks. Otherwise, due to the thermal balance, heat-resistant elements are not required.
7. A few turns of the chimney and a small thickness of its walls allow you to warm up the room quickly. At the same time, this dynamics allows you to save fuel during occasional use.
8. Fairly high heat transfer capacity, although this is also a disadvantage.

Cons and disadvantages

1. The classic Dutch woman has a low efficiency and loses to a scheme with more extended chimney channels.
2. Vertically located, extended sections of the chimney contribute to accelerated cooling after the fire has died out.
3. Unlike metal potbelly stoves, the use of light, vigorously burning fuel is less advisable, as with other massive brick products. True, this often mentioned drawback is more inherent in the hearth samples of the old time.
4. Compared to others, which have extended horizontal channels in the wall, it loses in heat capacity. As a result, more frequent flooding is required.
5. A design with thin walls, with frequent overheating, can lead to cracks. Subsequently, through cracks, carbon monoxide can penetrate into the room.
6. Thin walls can become very hot and the proximity of combustible materials can be a fire hazard.

Drawings and diagrams

Before starting work, it is necessary to dwell on the choice of a stove, whether it will be with or without a stove, the presence of an oven, dimensions, and find the required drawing.

Dutch woman with stove and oven flue gas outlet drawing

dutch three-turn drawing

Preparation for work, materials and tools

In order to start the main work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the materials in detail. So, what kind of working tool do you need to purchase? You will need a red full-bodied ceramic brick, which can be of medium quality. You can also use the old one, which is often denser and has a high thermal conductivity. But when using old brick, cladding is required. You need to decide which clay you are dealing with in order to adjust its properties. To get strong seams that will not crumble, the solution is made plastic, and clay must be used with medium fat content. There is a way to increase the strength of clay plaster by adding 100 - 150 g of ordinary salt to the composition. However, this works when the furnace is constantly running.

In idle time, salt gains moisture and the solution, swelling, crumbles. Still, it is much more important to determine its fat content. Skinny, will have to be elutriated, and excessively oily, mixed with an additional amount of sand, the proportion of which can reach up to 5 parts by volume. It is not difficult to determine the proportion of sand and clay for masonry mortar. Take about a liter of clay and divide it into 5 parts. Next, each part must be mixed with sand in the following proportions:

• do not add
• four to one
• two to one
• one to one
• one to two

Add water to each composition until it resembles dough and roll into balls, leave them to dry for 3 days. “Correct” balls should not crack and, when dropped from a height of a meter, do not fall apart. The composition of the cake that has passed the test is the desired one for work.

Foundation, ordinal masonry

The Dutch woman requires a certain amount of time and effort. Remember, by doing quality work, you will achieve a quality result of your work for a long period of time.

Under the base of the structure, it is necessary to equip the foundation, according to its mass and dimensions.

foundation pit

• depending on the weight and soil, it will have to be buried from 50 to 80 cm. It is desirable to make its size larger than the linear dimensions of the section, by 20 cm on each side, and for a large furnace and 25;
• a sand cushion is arranged, about 15 cm thick, which is spilled with water and compacted;
• next comes rubble;
• various factions;
• rubble material;
• from above, the pillow is poured with concrete into the formwork, if desired, it can be reinforced with metal. After pouring, it should be allowed to gain strength, at least for a week.

Finally, they get to work using an ordinary scheme. A person who already has minimal experience is able to lay out a simple stove on his own.

This will require a minimum set of tools:

• bushhammer;
• Master OK;
• roulette;
• level;
• cord;

Availability of additional tools such as:

• A grinder, with a diamond wheel or a laser level will only speed things up.
• For the installation of floors, you will need metal corners with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm, from which, if possible, weld tee supports.

Need to cook:

• grate
• damper
• doors for the firebox and ash pan (preferably cast iron, as it has a slight thermal expansion)
• doors for cleaning chimney channels can be simply iron, sometimes “knock-out” bricks are installed instead
• you will also need an asbestos or ceramic cord and wire to install the doors

If you have the whole set in stock, you can proceed.

Do-it-yourself laying rows

On many resources, it is advised to lay the first row of bricks without mortar, in extreme cases, on a thin layer of moistened sand. This is not very good advice. Minor bumps or a small pebble under the waterproofing, subsequently, can create a significant point load that can crack a brick or several. The solution, however, allows you to evenly distribute the weight over the foundation. That is, the solution under the first row should be!

Next, using the instructions, we begin to lay the waterproofing material. It should be noted that the thickness of the seams in this case will differ from the usual installation. It is necessary to maintain a gap within 3 - 4 mm. This is necessary for greater stability of the brick and to reduce the likelihood of mortar shedding subsequently. In the classic case, the blower door is laid in the second and third row. It is fastened into existing holes with wire, which is put into the seams.

Laying the grate

Next comes the row in which the grate is laid. For it, you need to leave small gaps for expansion or subsequent easy replacement, if necessary. The next four rows form the walls of the firebox. The working walls of the furnace are lined with refractory bricks, laying it on a spoon, “ruba”.

Door installation

During installation, the main door is laid with an asbestos cord. It will allow without harm to perceive the thermal expansion of materials and ensure tightness around the perimeter. The same as at the bottom door, wire fasteners are laid in the seams, and if the wire bundle is thick, grooves are cut in the bricks. Blocking the door, half a brick is laid above it or a lock connection is arranged, cutting the bricks with a wedge.

The subsequent number of rows depends on the estimated volume of the firebox. They can be 3 or 4, based on the required height. As a result, when the fuel chamber is formed, a ceiling is laid on metal supports, with an opening for a continuing chimney.

smoke channels

After, there is a part in which circulating smoke channels are formed. There are different options and the number of rows will also depend on the height. In the process, you need to monitor the thickness of the seams and linear dimensions. Sometimes it's worth checking the diagonal dimensions, which will show accumulating offsets.

View bookmark

After the end of the smoke cycles, several reinforcing rows are laid in which the view is laid. You can continue with a brick chimney, with a knee and additional support on the ceiling. Less preferred is a continuation with a steel sandwich, which will inevitably produce condensate and have different thermodynamic characteristics.

In any case, continuing the construction of the chimney, at the intersection with the ceiling, its cross section and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be increased. Be sure to apply refractory insulation, and treat the wooden floor elements with flame retardant. The inner surface of the channels must be smooth. In the process, it is mopped with a damp cloth in the same way as a chimney. A light trial firebox can be made no earlier than after 10 days, to check the draft.

Plaster, cladding and decor

To veneer, like a real Dutch woman, with tiles, not every master can do it. The device of tiles and the method of their installation makes this a difficult matter. However, if in the process the space of the boxes behind the tile is filled with fireclay sand, the thermal inertia will increase many times over. It should be noted that in this case, its weight will become much larger. I would recommend tiling for old surfaces.

Pre-plastering will help seal microcracks, and tiles will increase heat transfer. A reinforcing mesh must be laid in the plaster. And for tiles, use a special heat-resistant adhesive. After that, there is still no guarantee that the tile will not start to lag behind after accidental overheating. Therefore, they are most often plastered if the brick is ugly or the masonry is sloppy.

For plastering, you will need a slightly thinner composition used for masonry. To do this, you can add a tenth of the sand to it. A binder should be added to the plaster composition. It can be asbestos fiber, fiberglass, the people often used chaff formed during threshing of cereals. This greatly increases the integrity of the layer when dried. Plaster with warm, cracks and seams, cleaned of dust and thoroughly moistened with water.

Now it is easy to purchase a fine-mesh metal mesh. Fix it to the surface of the masonry with nails, hammering them into the seams at an angle and the plaster will not crack. The applied layers should be thin, about 3 mm. First there is a more liquid layer, then thicker. After setting, while the surface is still soft, rub it with a grater, smoothing out minor flaws.

After complete hardening, the surface is covered with lime milk. Corners can be decorated with tiles imitating artificial stone, glued with heat-resistant glue. If a new ceramic brick was used, the stove can be carefully “embroidered” and coated with heat-resistant varnish.

Do-it-yourself Dutch brick video ovens

When the conversation turns to such a heating device as a Dutch stove, a tall and narrow building that stands in the corner of the room comes to mind. All stove-makers in the world consider it a well-deserved device that still heats a huge number of houses using various types of fuel. Although at the very beginning of its appearance it was a solid fuel stove. Of the huge number of advantages of this unit, one can be distinguished that influenced its modern popularity - this is the opportunity to assemble a Dutch stove with your own hands. And this can be done by a person who has basic knowledge in furnace construction.

But back to our stove and talk a little about its history. It appeared in the Netherlands, hence the name itself, somewhere in the middle of the 15th century. Although there is no exact date, it can be said with confidence that this design has filled Europe and America in just three centuries. Why? Because it is the owner of a large number of positive qualities.

But before voicing the advantages of the device, I would like to understand its design.

Dutch oven device

Why does this heating unit release heat energy so efficiently? It's all about the artificially elongated channel through which flue gases move. So that you understand what we are talking about, we offer you a photo of a cut of the Dutch oven, located below.

Scheme of the classic version

In fact, it turns out that the chimney channel is a repeatedly bending outlet pipe through which flue gases move, giving off heat to the brick partitions and walls of the stove itself. At the same time, already cooled gases enter the chimney, which do not condense on its internal surfaces. There is a double benefit. But at the same time, some subtleties regarding heat engineering, thermodynamic and physico-technical processes were not used. Everything is simple, like our mortal world.

But here one nuance arises: all this can also be violated simply if you do not take into account the dimensional indicators of the unit during its construction. There are certain requirements that relate to the size, shape and masonry technology of each of the nodes. But more on that below.

Finishing with ceramic tiles

Most importantly, the Dutch women were invented by people who lived in small houses, because the Netherlands is practically land reclaimed from the sea. So it was simply impossible to dance from the stove, as was the case with the Russians. First, a house was built, and then a furnace was built into it to fit the dimensions. Therefore, it was high, narrow and plastic. What does plastic mean? Just its size could be varied, adjusted to the size of the space allocated for it. By the way, modern stove-makers do the same thing today. True, already using computer programs, driving the oven to the required dimensions of the room.

We add that earlier in the Netherlands there was a law that determined the tax on the house. So, at its base, a pipe was invested, from which smoke came. The more pipes in the house, the more the tax was paid. Therefore, the Dutch made such stoves, the chimneys of which were assembled into one pipe, which was led out of the wall of the house. That is, a rather complex design of chimneys was obtained. Although this complexity is visible, in practice everything turned out to be quite simple.

And one more addition. The lack of land encouraged people to build high-rise buildings. So, in order not to pay tax again, the stove was built to the full height of the building. At the same time, there were no concrete floor slabs at that time, everything was wooden. Therefore, stoves were built in blocks. They had a small specific gravity, so that the loads on the floors were minimal.

simple model

Advantages and disadvantages

Although we praise the Dutch, these heaters have both advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

• The efficiency of the unit is not affected by design changes. It is important to follow the masonry technology exactly. Although there can be a huge number of functional additions. For example, a Dutch oven with a stove bench, with a hob, with an oven, and so on.
• By the way, both structural and functional additions do not reduce the efficiency of the stove. So a Dutch oven with a stove is one of the most common options.
• Small dimensions have already been mentioned. But I would like to note that there are minimum dimensions: 0.5 x 0.5 m.
• The minimum consumption of the necessary materials. For example, the smallest Russian stove will take 1300 bricks. And the largest Dutch woman has only 650 bricks. But there is another catch here. The Dutch woman heats up just like a large Russian stove, which will require 2,500 bricks.
• Fewer materials, less load on floors.
• The height of the unit does not affect its efficiency in any way.
• The small thickness of the walls of the stove, rational design and shape make it practically insensitive to temperature changes. And accordingly, it practically does not deform.
• For its construction, a high-quality brick is needed, which is only used to cover the firebox. The rest of the construction does not require high quality materials. The walls can be built from hollow bricks or from defective (iron ore).
• A gas duct that is simple in configuration, a smooth temperature drop makes it possible to build an oven or a hot water tank into the stove. So the functionality of the device can be further increased.
• Fast heating and slow cooling.
• After a long downtime, the Dutchman does not have to be heated. You can download it right away.
• And one more comparison with a Russian stove - a large Dutch stove can heat a room up to 65 m². A large Russian stove will heat an area of ​​45 m².

Round dutch

Flaws

• Unfortunately, the Dutch woman cannot boast of high efficiency. The average value is 40%. In this regard, it is clearly inferior to the Russian stove.
• If after kindling you forgot to close the view, the stove cools down instantly. The configuration of the channels is just like a siphon, it begins to draw in outside air.
• The optimal kindling mode is smoldering. Therefore, it is not recommended to heat a Dutch round stove with fast-burning fuel. For example, reeds, brushwood, straw and so on.
• It is believed that this stove should be heated at least 2 times a day.
• But it is better not to overheat it. At the same time, carbon monoxide is released in large quantities, which immediately enters the room.

Small oven on metal supports

The lineup

There are a lot of variations on the Dutch theme. I would like to note some of them as often occurring.

• Classic.
• With a fireplace.
• With stove.
• In the form of a column.

By the way, here is a photo of a Dutch oven with a stove from below.

Dutch woman with stove

Column furnaces were close to Soviet citizens, because they were mainly used in low-rise construction. By the way, such devices worked on wood, coal, and gas. And they behaved perfectly on any of these types of fuel. True, Soviet engineers approached the increase in heat transfer in a peculiar way. They proposed to build a metal casing around the brick walls of the stove, which heated up and gave off more thermal energy.

By the way, Dutch round stoves in a metal casing can still be found today in old Soviet-built houses. And amazingly, they work great.

Stove in a metal casing

This model, which is called Utermark, in honor of its inventor, a German who lived all his life in Russia, I.G. Utermark, has one big plus and one big minus.

• Plus - the laying of the stove was made in a quarter of a brick. Strength was supported by a metal casing.
• Minus - this stove did not heat very well. The efficiency is too low.

In fact, this model is a heating unit for the poor. But its design was modified, creating the so-called bell-type furnace with a higher efficiency.

The construction of the Dutch

So, let's move on to the most important process - this is the ordering of the Dutch oven. As mentioned above, a huge variety of shapes and designs allows you to install an option in your home that will fit exactly into the interior of the room, heat it well and take up little space.

But, like any brick oven, the Dutch woman requires a solid foundation for herself. Therefore, it is recommended to pour a concrete foundation under it with the installation of a reinforcing frame made of metal reinforcement or mesh. The only thing you need to pay special attention to is that the frame must be voluminous, that is, not flat, but laid in the entire body of the foundation.

When this element of the general structure dries well, its surface must be waterproofed. You can lay roofing material or roofing felt, you can coat it with bitumen or waterproofing mastic. Now you can prepare the rest of the materials, and this is a clay mortar and bricks. As mentioned above, the Dutch woman is built from ordinary bricks, but the combustion chamber is made from refractory. Clay mortar is a mixture of clay and sand in a ratio of 1:1.

Ordering one of the models

There is a specific design feature of the Dutch stove - this is a firebox, which is located low above the floor surface. Usually this size is 25 cm. This allows you to warm up the heating unit itself evenly. Now that all the preparatory work has been completed, you can directly proceed to the laying of the Dutch oven with your own hands.

• A layer of sand 5 cm thick is poured over the waterproofing material, no more. It is leveled horizontally and watered from above.
• The first brick row is laid on the base without a bonding mortar. For a medium-sized stove, only 12 bricks are required.
• 2-3 rows are laid on the solution. Please note that the first three rows are laid flat.
• 4-5 rows - the internal partition of the chimney is installed. Here, knockout bricks are laid out from the back wall. With their help, it will be possible to clean the chimney. They are also placed without a solution. Why not install a door here? In principle, there are no objections, but heat will leave the furnace through it, so it’s better to focus on knockout bricks.
• Next, the firebox door is installed. Note that this row may not necessarily be the sixth. It's all about the height of the unit itself.
• 7 row is laid flat. But the back bricks are placed on edge.
• All other rows are laid out flat. The 8th row closes the furnace door, so above it the bricks are laid with a bevel in the likeness of a fireplace.
• The 9th row is shifted inward, it is along it that the heat-resistant material is laid out. For example, asbestos cord.
• The hob is installed.
• From the 10th row, a chimney begins to form. I would like to note that for small structures it is best to use metal or other chimneys, but not brick ones. It will just make the whole structure heavier.
• In the 11th row, a valve is installed between the stove and the chimney.
• The chimney is installed.
• A plinth or other protective device is attached between the foundation and the first brick row, which will prevent sand from spilling out.
• You can move on to finishing.
• It is possible to do the first kindling only after the expiration of two weeks.

Here is a laying scheme for the Dutch. Difficult? It all depends on the size of the device. If this is a small option, then with your own hands you can handle it without problems. If the unit is large, then you will have to tinker, because such a furnace will require a large amount of building materials, and, therefore, a lot of time for their installation.

Dutch oven with a high firebox

When autonomous heating in private homes is predominantly gas, it can be difficult to find a good stove-maker. And many homeowners, to whom gasification still has not yet reached, take up the construction. Of course, a beginner who is poorly versed in the intricacies of the furnace business should not opt ​​for a complex, albeit economical design. It is better for him to be cheap and cheerful, and most importantly, extremely simple. The so-called Dutch oven or simply Dutch oven perfectly meets these requirements, thanks to which it has become very, very popular.

What does a Dutch oven look like and why is it so popular

The appearance of the Dutch

Uncomplicated, at first glance, the structure has many advantages:

1. "Dutch" is able to quickly warm up from the smallest portion of fuel. At the same time, its overexpenditure during heating after a long downtime is very small.
2. The design of this furnace involves the use of a relatively small amount of material, so it is relatively light. For comparison: a large Dutch oven is built from 650 bricks, while a large Russian one is built from 2500. At the same time, the heated area for the "Dutch" is 60 m 2, while for the Russian - only 45 m 2. In addition, the principle of the device "Dutch" allows you to significantly reduce the original dimensions - up to 0.5x0.5 m in plan. This advantage allows you to safely place the "Dutch" on the floor.
3. The channel labyrinth in the body of the stove has great resistance to reverse thrust, so smoke almost never occurs when wind blows into the pipe.
4. Although the Dutch stove was originally created as a purely heating stove, it can be easily equipped with a hob - the combustion mode will not be disturbed.
5. The channel part of the furnace can be pulled up to 2 floors (and some are pulled up to 4), while its efficiency will remain at the same level.
6. Design features in combination with a small wall thickness exclude the development of significant temperature deformations in the masonry, so the Dutchwoman is undemanding to the quality of materials. A good brick (refractory) is required only for the construction of a firebox. The rest is sometimes laid out even from burnt or hollow bricks.
7. In the channel part, you can easily find the area with the optimum temperature for installing an oven or a water heat exchanger.
8. Irregular use does absolutely no harm to the stove. At the same time, it is possible to drown it, bypassing the accelerating phase - the masonry will not crack from this.

As you can see, the list of advantages of this furnace is very impressive. But, despite this, it cannot be called ideal. Here are the costs to achieve these benefits:

1. "Dutch" has a very low efficiency - within 40%. For comparison: a Russian stove assimilates more than 80% of the thermal energy embedded in the fuel.
2. It is worth at least a little delay in overlapping the view after heating, as the stove will immediately be blown out by cold air. It is pulled through the chimney by a channel labyrinth that acts like a siphon.
3. "Dutch" is not designed for the use of waste fuel, which burns completely in a short time. It should not be heated, for example, with reeds, straw, brushwood and similar materials: the lion's share of the heat produced will evaporate through the chimney. With maximum effect, the stove operates on long-lasting fuel (wood, coal, peat), and in the smoldering mode.
4. When using inexpensive types of fuel with a high ash content, the chimney is quickly overgrown with soot.

With an excessively intense firebox, a Dutch stove can release carbon monoxide into the room.

See also our material with step-by-step instructions and ordering a brick fireplace stove:.

Construction device

The design of the Dutch oven can rightly be called ingenuous. The main feature is that the firebox does not communicate directly with the chimney, but through a labyrinth of channels (that’s why the stoves of this type are called channel stoves), passing through which the flue gases manage to give off more heat to the brickwork. A classic Dutch oven in section is shown in the figure.

Diagram of the device of the Dutch stove

Any complex calculations in the design of the "Dutch" are not required, and it is almost impossible to significantly violate anything in it. Therefore, there is no specific order that must be strictly followed. It is enough to maintain the ratio of the main dimensions within certain limits.

The rapid heating of the furnace is due to a combination of two factors:

• the area of ​​the inner surface of the flue has been increased (due to the installation of a channel labyrinth);
• reduced material consumption of the furnace.

Note that the volume of materials used is reduced within reasonable limits - the heat capacity of the furnace is quite sufficient. However, it will not be enough for a whole day - the stove will have to be heated at least twice.

The outlet flue channel is not directed upwards, as in many other furnaces, but to the side, that is, the presence of a pipe is not provided. This feature makes it possible to connect several stoves to one attached (root) chimney. For ancient Holland, this was of fundamental importance, since the tax was levied there precisely on the number of chimneys.

The vault of the furnace is not arched, but flat, which makes the furnace even easier to manufacture.

This is interesting. In Russia, under Peter the Great, there were frequent fires due to the burning of Russian stoves in black. Intending to prevent such incidents, the tsar by a special decree demanded that furnaces be built in the future in the manner of the Dutch. But the stove-makers often fulfilled the royal decree only partially, building stoves only outwardly similar to the Dutch ones. The emphasis was on decoration with tiles, which was typical for the "Dutch women". As a result, confusion arose, which continues to this day: often “Dutch” is called stoves with a design that is not at all characteristic of them, for example, bell-shaped and even some varieties of Russians.

Some inventors have modified the Dutch oven for one purpose or another. For example, I. G. Utermark gave it a round shape.

Utermarkovka

The diagram shows a simplified smoke circulation, consisting of 3 channels, but in some types of undermarking their number could reach 12. The furnace is equipped with a steel casing, thanks to which it became possible to reduce the wall thickness to ¼ of a brick. This has drastically reduced the cost of undermarking, which is why it has firmly established itself in the “budget” segment. But at the same time, the heat capacity also greatly decreased - it is necessary to heat such a furnace quite often. In addition, due to the design features, it has a low efficiency, emits a lot of smoke and quickly overgrows with soot.

The Dutchwoman of the Soviet inventor V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo has higher technical characteristics. Unlike undermarking, it is equipped with a grate, and there is a cap in the overhead part. The bell version turned out to be very economical - in terms of efficiency, it almost caught up with the Russian stove (over 80%).

In accordance with the needs of the owners of houses in garden plots, a large Dutch stove was transformed into a small country stove, and there are several varieties of such stoves.

An example of a country Dutch stove with a hob

One of them - equipped with a hob - we will learn how to build on our own.

Read also about how to fold the Swedish oven yourself:. The material provides a diagram of the device, the calculation of materials and much more.

Parameter calculation

The main parameters of the furnace are the heat transfer power and the dimensions of the chimney.

To calculate power, you need to know the specific calorific value of the fuel.

Table: calorific value of wood

During flame combustion, a portion of the fuel burns out in about 1 hour, so the power of the furnace operating in this mode will be:

W \u003d Vt x Eud x 0.63 x 0.4 x 0.8, where:

• W is the heat transfer power of the furnace, kW;
• Vt - the volume of the furnace, m 3;
• 0.63 - loading factor of the combustion chamber;
• 0.4 - furnace efficiency;
• 0.8 is a coefficient showing what part of the fuel burns in full.

Suppose the furnace firebox has dimensions of 400x300x400 mm. Then, in the case of using birch logs of medium humidity (25%) as fuel, we get the power:

W \u003d 0.4 x 0.3 x 0.4 x 2352 x 0.63 x 0.4 x 0.8 \u003d 22.76 kW.

In accordance with the calculated power, the section of the chimney is selected:

• with a thermal power of less than 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• between 3.5 and 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• between 5.2 and 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• between 7.2 and 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• between 10.5 and 14 kW: 200x270 mm;
• more than 14 kW: 270x270 mm.

If the chimney used has a circular section (it can be made from pieces of steel pipe or concrete blocks with round holes), then it must have the same area as the indicated rectangular sections.

It should be noted that when the furnace is operated in the smoldering mode, its power is from 10 to 30% of that calculated for flame combustion. But the cross section of the chimney should be selected exactly according to the maximum power.

Necessary materials and tools

The oven is laid out with two types of bricks.

Firebox walls - fireclay bricks

It has a yellow color, can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees.

Note! Externally, fireclay bricks are similar to acid-resistant ones, which is sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers. When buying, ask for a certificate.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks may vary depending on the brand. So, a brick of the ShB-8 brand has the same dimensions as an ordinary building brick - 250x124x65 mm. Chamotte brick of the Sh-5 brand is somewhat reduced: 230x114x40 (65) mm.

Signs of high-quality fireclay bricks are:

• fine-grained structure;
• absence of visible pores and inclusions;
• clear ringing sound when tapped with a hammer;
• when falling, it breaks into large pieces (low-quality crumbles into small crumbs).

As for the appearance of a brick, a darker color does not always mean higher quality. It all depends on the clay deposit: it also happens that lighter fireclay bricks have better characteristics.

It should be noted that since the thermal regime of the Dutch stove is not stressful, its furnace part can be laid out with ceramic stove bricks of the M150 brand, capable of withstanding temperatures up to 800 degrees (not to be confused with ordinary building bricks).

The walls of the furnace can be laid out from clinker bricks, which have high strength and heat resistance. At a cost, it is much more affordable than fireclay.

Furnace body

The remaining parts of the furnace, except for the firebox, can be laid out with ceramic oven bricks, or with bricks of medium quality with a slight cracking.

Ceramic oven brick

Use of second-hand material is allowed.

Materials for clay mortar

Sand

You can use river sand with grains 1 mm in size, preferably angular. But if you want to get a durable furnace that can last more than 10 years, you should use sand without organic impurities. Previously, only very expensive mountain sand had this quality, but today more affordable brick sand can be used instead. It is a ground fireclay or ceramic brick.

The first option is used in solutions for fireclay masonry, the second - for ceramic.

Clay

Mortars for laying fireclay bricks are best prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Ceramic bricks can be laid on a mortar of any ground clay with refractory properties, Cambrian clay (blue or gray) and gray kaolin are considered the most suitable.

Advice. Before buying clay, you need to smell it. If any smell is well heard, even if it is pleasant, then the material contains a large amount of organic impurities and it is not worth buying it: such a solution will begin to crumble very soon.

Grades of clay with an average fat content are preferred.

Tools

Of the tools, it should be noted the ordering - a flat rail with a section of 50x50 mm, on which risks are applied corresponding to the rows of bricks. Four orders are fixed at the corners in a strictly vertical position (nails are driven into them to be inserted into the seams), after which it will be very easy to make the masonry even.

Tools

Other tools - the usual builder's set: pickaxe hammer, trowel, level and plumb line.

You may also find an article on how to make a brick chimney the right way:.

Preparatory work

Furnaces with a volume of up to 500 bricks can be laid without a foundation, if only the floors in the room are strong enough (capable of bearing a load of up to 250 kg / m 2). A small Dutch country stove with a hob, the construction of which we will consider in detail further, satisfies this condition.

But if the floor in the room clearly does not have the required strength, then it must also be installed on a reinforced concrete foundation.

Scheme of the foundation for a heavy furnace

Its depth is usually 400-600 mm, and the edges should extend beyond the outline of the furnace by at least 100 mm on each side. It is impossible to connect the structure with the foundation of the building - due to various shrinkage, skew may occur.

After pouring the foundation, it must be ironed - sprinkled with cement.

Foundation poured with concrete

When the concrete is ripe - it takes about 1 month, it needs to be covered with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material or roofing felt), after which it will be possible to start building the furnace.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of bricks in place, you need to prepare a clay-sand mortar. The correct ratio of sand and clay depends on the fat content of the latter. To define it, proceed as follows:

1. After soaking the clay for a day, stir it to a dough state, after which 5 portions of the solution are prepared with different sand content: 10, 25, 50, 75 and 100% of the volume of clay.
2. After twisting a 30-cm sausage with a diameter of 10-15 mm from each portion, it is wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 40-50 mm and left to dry at room temperature for 2 weeks.

One way to determine the quality of clay

In the presence of:

• fine mesh cracks or their complete absence, the solution is considered suitable for any part of the furnace;
• large cracks, but not exceeding 2 mm in depth: the solution is suitable for furnace elements with a temperature not exceeding 300 degrees;
• deeper cracks and gaps, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Having determined the optimal ratio of sand and clay, prepare a solution in the required volume. Clay is also soaked for a day, only after that it is still rubbed through a sieve. The sand is sieved and washed. The finished solution should have the consistency of sour cream.

Step by step instructions with order

The oven is laid out row by row according to the order.

Masonry scheme of a small Dutch oven with a hob

Particularly high requirements are imposed on row No. 1, since errors in its laying will lead to a distortion of the entire structure. The bricks should fold into a perfectly regular rectangle, a sign of which is the equality of the diagonals. The upper faces of all blocks must lie in a strictly horizontal plane - this is checked using the building level.

Row one

Advice. Row No. 1 will be easier to give the correct shape if, before laying it, the contour of the future furnace is applied to the waterproofing coating with chalk.

Another trick is to start each row with corner bricks. After they are leveled, it will be easier to lay the rest of the blocks correctly.

oven doors

In masonry, the door will be fixed with a wire. It needs to be inserted into the box, folded in half and twisted. Further, this wire is placed in a groove specially cut in the brick (in the upper edge), bent and intertwined with the masonry.

Before continuing work, it is necessary to establish vertical reference points, according to which it will be convenient to lay out the corners of the furnace. This can be the ordering that was described above, or 4 nylon cords stretched along a plumb line between nails driven into the ceiling and masonry seams.

According to the established guidelines, lay out the corner bricks of the 2nd row, and then the entire row.

Row two

Row number 3 and some others in order are marked in yellow. This means that they are laid out of refractory bricks.

Row three

On top of the bricks of the 3rd row, it is necessary to lay a grate measuring 300x200 mm.

Bricks of row No. 4 should be laid on spoons (long end or edge). The blocks marked in red on the ordering diagram are the support blocks for the internal chimney partition (see above).

One of the bricks on the back side should be laid without mortar and pushed out slightly - it will replace the cleaning door. This brick is called knockout. To access the chimney channel, it will need to be removed from the masonry, and after cleaning it should be installed in place.

The method of cleaning the stove through a knockout brick

In front of the 4th row, it is necessary to install the firebox door. It is equipped with a seal and is fixed in the same way as the blower.

Installing the furnace door

Note. The wire fixing the furnace door quickly burns out from close contact with the flame. In order not to resort to repairing this element too often, use a steel or tin strip instead of wire.

Rows No. 5 and 6 do not need comments - you just need to lay out the bricks according to the order. Just pay attention to the fact that in the 5th row the blocks are placed on the bed (flat), and in the 6th - as in the 4th, on a spoon.

Row six

Row No. 7 is mostly laid out on the bed, but the back wall is laid out on a spoon. In subsequent rows, bricks are laid only on the bed.

Row seven

The front bricks of row No. 8 need to block the furnace door. Blocks hanging over the firebox must be cut at an angle, as shown in the diagram. Due to the presence of an inclined surface, the fire with the furnace door open will deviate back. This will allow the user to enjoy the flames while using the dutch as a fireplace.

Row number 9 needs to be shifted back a little. This creates sufficient counterweight for the heavy cast iron firebox door when it is open.

On top of the 9th row, you need to lay a mineral lining under the hob. You can use strips of asbestos, basalt or kaolin cardboard. A hob is installed on top of the lining. Mounting it on a mortar is unacceptable - due to a significant difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of cast iron and clay. An asbestos cord should be laid in the gap between the slab and the brick.

Note! Some models of hobs have stiffening ribs on the underside. In this case, grooves should be cut in the bricks into which these ribs will be recessed. If such a slab is laid without grooves, it may crack along the line between and parallel to the ribs.

Row number 10 is the source of the chimney. But we will not build the pipe itself out of brick, otherwise the Dutch oven cannot be made light. We will install a stainless steel chimney, especially since a Dutch brick chimney, which is characterized by abundant condensation, would still have to be lined.

A valve should be installed on top of the bricks of the 11th row. As well as the doors, it should be wrapped with asbestos cord.

Valve installation

On the 12th row, it is necessary to make a transition from a rectangular section of brickwork to a round one - a steel chimney. The chimney should be carefully insulated - this is a prerequisite for good traction.

Advice. If you have free funds, you can purchase a prefabricated smoke exhaust system - the so-called sandwich chimney. The kit contains all the necessary parts - from a tee to an umbrella, which are ideally suited to each other in size and equipped with effective insulation.

The chimney is brought out to the street through the ceiling and roof.

The height of its head relative to the grate should be at least 5 m. At the intersection of the ceiling and the roof, it is necessary to arrange fire-prevention cuts - fireproof heat-insulating gaskets are installed between the pipe and the wooden elements. The gap between the chimney and the roofing must be carefully sealed.

Note. In sets of prefabricated sandwich chimneys, both cuttings and a special apron are provided for closing the gap between the pipe and the roofing. Installation of the elements is not difficult, as the kit comes with detailed instructions.

If the floor in the room where the Dutch woman is built is made of wood, it must be protected near the firebox with a fireproof coating. Usually, a steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or more is placed on top of an asbestos lining. The dimensions of the coating must be such that it protects the floor within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the furnace door.

A steel sheet is strengthened in front of the firebox

Large Dutch oven - how to build

All elements - valve, doors, grate - are mounted in the same way as in the version just described. But the design, of course, will be somewhat different: there is already a smoke circulation (channel labyrinth) in which the flue gases give off their heat. The ordering of a large Dutch oven, as well as its scheme, are shown in the figure.

Ordering a large Dutch oven

Decorating a Dutch oven

It has long been customary to decorate a Dutch oven with tiles.

Examples of decorating the stove with tiles

If this method of decoration is not available, a more familiar one will do - the stove can be plastered and whitewashed.

One way or another, if the interior of the room is at least somewhat important for the owner of the stove, the Dutch woman must be ennobled.

Round Dutch finish

In a purely brick version, it looks mean and uninteresting.

Operation features

A characteristic feature of Dutch stoves is that, due to the considerable length of the gas duct, during reheating, flue gases are not completely removed through the chimney and some of them, including poisonous carbon monoxide, can enter the room. To avoid such phenomena, during operation it is necessary to monitor the temperature in the middle of the front surface (chela) - it should not exceed 60 degrees. This is a temperature that is tolerable for the palm, but not for the back of the hand.

Video: do-it-yourself Dutch oven

As you can see, the construction of a Dutch oven is quite within the power of even an absolute beginner in the oven business. In this case, you get a very practical, although not the most economical device. The key to success is to carefully follow the order and our advice. We wish you success!

The abundance of advanced technologies does not interfere with taking advantage of the experience of ancestors and organizing indoor heating using a stove. Its presence does not require the installation of a water circuit, and in the absence of a central gas line, it is the best option for heating. Among the variety of types for a small house, it is appropriate to choose a Dutch stove, which is compact and has the ability to quickly warm up.

Characteristics of the Dutch oven

The name of the stove testifies to its historical homeland. It is most advisable to use the Dutch for heating in small rooms, and the number of floors does not matter much. There are examples when such stoves successfully coped with the heating of buildings on 2, 3 and 4 floors. In the original designs of the Dutch, there were no grate and blower, and the ajar firebox door served as a source of air for combustion. Over time, the device of the Dutch oven was improved and the standard for us appeared:

• ash chamber;
• door;
• grate.

Traditionally, the internal structure of the Dutch oven consists of very long flue gas passages. This provides an unusual height and compact dimensions of the base. The minimum dimensions of the Dutch woman are 52x52 cm, such a stove is capable of heating a room up to 20 m 2. Moving along the long smoke channels, the combustion products transfer thermal energy to the walls and leave the structure through the side opening. A distinctive feature of the Dutch stove is the ability to change the design, subject to compliance with key proportions and maintaining the principle of operation. Among the variety of options for internal and external arrangement, for clarity, the photo below shows the classic laying of a Dutch stove.

The principle of operation of this furnace design is to organize intensive smoldering. A raging flame is not provided here, otherwise the flue gases will pass through the channel system at an accelerated pace and come out without having time to transfer thermal energy to the side surfaces of the stove. Therefore, it is not advisable to load the Dutch firebox with small wood or other types of fast-burning fuel. With a properly organized heating process, the Dutch woman will quickly warm up and retain thermal energy for a long time. The temperature of the outer walls of the stove in this case reaches 60 ° C.

Arrangement options

There are many options for arranging a Dutch oven. Based on the design features, they are divided into three main types:

classic model. Such Dutch ovens can have a rectangular or round shape. The appearance is simple, the finish is brickwork. The internal arrangement of the furnace consists of a large firebox and six smoke channels. Thanks to them, the heating of the Dutch stove occurs gradually, preventing cracking of the surface or the formation of cracks on it.

Remark ! When laying a Dutch stove, special attention is paid to the height of the firebox. Its placement at a level of 25 cm from the floor ensures uniform heating of the room.

Dutch oven with stove. Individual craftsmen complement the classic design of the Dutch stove with a stove. Thanks to this improvement, it becomes possible to organize the cooking process. To implement the idea above the Dutch firebox, you will need to install a cast-iron stove and decorate it with brickwork.

Fireplace design. The key difference between this Dutch stove model is the wide base. The construction of the chimney and the ash compartment of the Dutch stove is carried out in the second row. A hole is also formed here for organizing the procedure for cleaning the furnace. Experts recommend forming a basalt cardboard gasket in such a stove, which prevents the formation of cracks and performs the function of isolating gas flows.

In addition to the design, the Dutch women differ in their external design options:

• The most common classic brick cladding, especially modern materials look quite attractive.
• Looking back, you can find amazing models of tiled stoves. In this case, the means of heating the house turned into a real masterpiece of furnace art.
• There are options for decorating a Dutch stove using natural stone.

Naturally, the classic model of a rectangular stove with brick lining has become widespread. Round designs of Dutch women have a number of disadvantages during operation, therefore they are extremely rare.

Design features

The principle of operation of the Dutch stove is as follows: passing through the first channel, the smoke transfers heat to the walls, and after cooling down into the combustion chamber. After reheating, the combustion products rise up again, after which they exit through the chimney.

When planning a home improvement with a Dutch brick heating stove, the following points should be considered:

• Possessing significant weight, the design of the stove needs to be pre-arranged with a foundation located at floor level. Its thickness should be 10-15 cm, the base of the Dutch is made of concrete based on a reinforcing cage. A solid reinforced concrete slab located at the base of the floors can replace the foundation. Its dimensions exceed the dimensions of the furnace masonry by 5-10 cm in each direction.
• A characteristic feature of the Dutch oven are the low requirements for the quality of building materials. Often, masonry is carried out from hollow stones that have cracks and were previously used for other purposes. Not having an attractive appearance, however, such a Dutch stove does an excellent job of heating.

  Tip! For quality masonry adherents, it is better to stock up on full-bodied ceramic bricks that have undergone a competent firing procedure.

• The simplicity of the design allows even an inexperienced stove-maker to get down to work on arranging the stove, it is enough to have the skills of brickwork with dressing.
• To form a Dutch firebox, it is desirable to use high-quality refractory bricks. The connecting mixture is a sand-clay solution, brought to the consistency of sour cream. The mixing of the binder composition from sand and clay for laying the stove is carried out in a ratio of 2: 1. For these purposes, you can purchase a ready-made building mixture.

Attention ! When laying the furnace, it is not allowed to use cement, the mortar based on it cracks as a result of temperature differences.

For heating a summer house, a simple model of a Dutch stove is suitable, shown in the diagram below:

If necessary, increase the height, the alternation of rows from 17 to 21 and from 18 to 22 is repeated the required number of times. This design is designed to heat a small room up to 20 m 2. It is better to equip a spacious house with a more powerful stove design that provides heating for 50 m 2. Her example is posted below:

Advantages and disadvantages

Considering various options for heating a small room, you should comprehensively study each model of the stove. Among the many advantages of Dutch ovens, the following points can be noted:

• Compact dimensions contribute to saving space, this is especially important in small-sized houses.
• Economical consumption of building materials, compared to a standard Russian stove, it is almost halved.
• Reduced material consumption provides a lightweight design of the Dutch stove compared to classic stove models. In turn, there is no need to equip a powerful foundation; a small strengthening of the base for the stove will be enough.
• If it is necessary to save money, the cost of purchasing building materials can be reduced by using used bricks for laying the furnace.
• Dutch stoves are characterized by rapid heating and slow cooling.
• It is possible to modernize the design by adding the necessary elements at your discretion.

The multiple advantages of stoves are accompanied by some disadvantages, namely:

• Low efficiency, less than 50%.
• Straw, reeds, small wood and other types of light fuel should not be used as fuel.
• After ignition of the fuel, the damper in the furnace must be kept closed, otherwise rapid combustion will provoke an accelerated process of heat loss.

As you can see, minor difficulties cannot overshadow all the advantages of the unusual design of the Dutch stove, which can become a life-saving straw when solving the issue of heating a small room.