27.07.202327.05.2017

- Another extremely useful thing in the household of a master who works with metal. It is needed for a lot of things: from soldering to welding with preheating of workpieces or places for future welds.

Since the functions of gas heaters are the widest, their types are numerous and varied. Models for jewelry work resemble graceful pens. And devices for heating bitumen at roofing work are more like powerful spotlights. All of them are presented on the market: what is called, for every taste and budget.

The advantage of the purchased model is one - it is a safety certificate. If, according to the conditions of your work, the presence of such a certificate is mandatory, then there is nothing to think about: you need to buy a gas burner. But if you work on your own, and you are neither hot nor cold from official paper, then a do-it-yourself gas burner is an excellent solution in all respects.

Why and why? First of all, this is not a cheap thing. Secondly, the design is not too complicated, it will be up to you, we promise. Before you make a gas burner with your own hands, you need to take into account some special information.

How does welding work with a gas torch.

Features of gas burners:

First of all - the material from which the nozzle should be made. Only refractory metal, because your device must produce really high temperatures - up to 1000 ° C, so the nozzle must be resistant to such temperatures.
We do not save on the crane, because your safety will depend on its quality. If a leak suddenly starts, the gas supply is instantly shut off with a tap. The crane must be of high quality, it must not miss.
Another element of the device, the quality of which should be of the highest quality, is the connection unit to the gas cylinder with or without a reducer, if the cartridge is small, then it is with a valve. We remember that the vast majority of accidents with a "gas" background occurs precisely because of a defective shut-off device.
The most commonly used propane is for your information.
At its core, a gas burner is an evaporative type nozzle.
A do-it-yourself gas torch is basically no different from a device for hardening metal parts, so it can be made for a wide variety of applications.

How is a gas burner arranged?

The mechanism of action of the injection type device:

Gas is supplied through a hose as a result of the pressure that is formed during the evaporation of liquefied gas inside the cylinder. This pressure is enough to ensure that the gas of the incoming gas is enough to create and maintain an even, constant flame. Not all cylinders have a reducer, in which case the gas supply can be regulated by a working valve.
The stopcock is by no means working, it has a completely different function, it is attached to the cylinder valve with the only task of opening or closing the gas supply.
The gas jet is fed into the nozzle through the gas supply tube. This tube passes into a nipple, which forms the direction of the flame. This nipple, together with the gas supply pipe, is located in a special insert, the function of which is to mix gas with air.
The insert, together with the nipple and the gas supply tube, is adjusted by a screw. It is best to make the device collapsible, since the nipple must be cleaned in a mandatory manner.
After formation in the liner, the mixture of gas and air is fed into a special nozzle of the nozzle, into which an additional portion of oxygen is supplied from atmospheric air. The nozzle needs ventilation holes, they will make the flame more even and stable.

Homemade burner options

We already know that one of the main elements of the device is a valve. Powerful large-sized models must be equipped with industrial valves. These valves can be bought, or old copies can be used while maintaining integrity, provided that there is no gas leakage.

With such dimensions, a standard 50-liter gas cylinder is used, equipped with an angle valve and a reducer.

Burner with valve VK-74

Cylinder and gas burner.

The main thing to remember is that this valve should only be used to regulate the flame. It is necessary to stop the gas flow only on the cylinder itself. VK-74 is a valve for an oxygen cylinder, to which a handle with a connected hose from the cylinder is attached. A cap with a hole for a jet is also screwed to the valve, here you can use an element from a blowtorch or a gas stove. A nozzle made of refractory steel on two wires is welded to the cap.

In order for air to enter the combustion zone, the distance between the cap and the nozzle must be at least 15 mm. The position of the nozzle is determined by wire holders so that the flame of the burner passes exactly in the center. How to light a flame: Slowly open the valve by bringing a lit match to the nozzle. The flame is controlled by a valve.

Burner converted from acetylene gas cutter

Homemade is perfectly made from an acetylene torch, in which the faucet for supplying oxygen has failed. In this case, the mixing chamber needs to be reworked: everything needs to be removed from it to make it lighter, this also applies to the crane and the oxygen barrel. The remaining hole must be soldered.

The reducer hose from the cylinder must be connected to the fitting. For convenience of work on the mixing chamber, using a union nut, set the tip at an angle of 45 °. Weld the nozzle to the flange, which is then screwed onto the thread of the tip. We make the nozzle in the same way as in the first version with the VK-74 valve.

Gas mini burner

Drawing of a gas burner.

This is called "small" work - for example, jewelry. In this mode, it is most convenient with a special mini-device. This is made from improvised materials very simply. The main element in it is a needle for inflating balls. You need to work with this needle: first, make a hole in the form of a cut approximately in the middle or a little further. On some copies of the needles, there are already such holes, then we rejoice and continue to work further.

We take another needle, this time from a syringe, bend it at an angle of 45 °. The end of the needle should be sharpened so that its sharp end turns into a cut at a right angle, and the needle becomes like a narrow metal tube. We insert the syringe needle into the needle from the ball so that both ends protrude from the larger needle. In this position, the needles need to be soldered to each other. After that, we connect droppers with clamps to the base of the needles to regulate them.

The clamps should be located as close as possible to the needles and fastened to each other - they will carry out the function of valves, that is, they will regulate the supply of gas and atmospheric air. After connecting the gas source, it will be ready for operation. With all its simplicity and compactness, you can get temperatures up to 1000 ° on it. And do not forget the safety precautions, with this baby you need to work very carefully.

So, to build a gas burner with your own hands is a) real; b) profitable; c) helpful. To do this, it is enough to decide what kind of work you are planning to decide on the type and dimensions. The device of a gas burner from a physical point of view is simple, the main thing is to follow our advice regarding the main elements. We wish you quick solutions, high-quality valves and an even flame.

Hello everyone, today we will make a Bunsen gas burner from improvised means! It will not be just a stationary burner, but a burner that, if necessary, you can safely hold in your hands and not be afraid to get burned. It will not be difficult to make it, all the materials used must be at hand, and its scope is quite wide.

The author often uses a gas stove in his works, but it is not very convenient to work with it, and therefore the idea came to him to purchase something less bulky and convenient. Having rummaged around on Aliexpress, as well as visiting specialized stores, he found a lot of burners, but as usual, the price did not suit him and therefore he decided to assemble such a burner himself, especially since all the necessary parts were at hand.

There was an old and cheap Chinese burner, which faithfully served him for several years. It has a suitable gas supply regulator and it sits cylinders that are sold in every hardware, construction or fishing store.

It will be needed for adjustment. So, let's begin! First you need to unscrew the standard burner, put on a silicone long hose of a suitable size instead of it and put it aside for now. By the way, if necessary, you can screw the standard burner back if necessary!

For the manufacture of a new burner, the author used tubes from an air conditioner with an inner diameter of 8 and 5 mm. You can take any copper tube. First you need to cut off a piece of a tube with a diameter of 8 mm, 10 cm long and clean it from the resulting jagged, on the inside and outside.

Now you need to saw off a piece of thin tube about 4 centimeters.

To make a nozzle, you need to cut off a piece of a medical needle.

When biting off the needle, the edge can be crushed, so it needs to be cleaned with a file, and then cleaned with a thin wire.

The end of the thick tube must be crushed with pliers so that the needle fits tightly there.

Further, the author used phosphoric acid. With its help, he processed a crushed piece of a tube with a needle and soldered a thick copper wire, and soldered a gap in the tube.

He then soldered the second piece of tube as shown in the photo below. The author recommends rinsing acid treatment areas with water to wash off excess and prevent oxidation of the copper tube and needle.

Now you can immediately check the burner, for this you need to connect the postponed silicone hose, which the author connected to the Chinese burner at the beginning and connect the other end to the new burner.

The author's first burner test was not particularly successful, it ignited poorly and went out almost immediately. Then he noticed that if you cover the lower part of the burner with your fingers and reduce the oxygen supply, then the flame is quite well regulated.

So you need an adjustment! For this, the author took the M8 bolt, something like the one in the photo below.

I straightened the wire that holds the two parts of the burner so that the needle rests against the wall of the thick tube. Then I drilled a hole for the bolt with a 7 drill, at the very beginning of the thick tube. In order for the hole to turn out normal, the author recommends first drilling with a thin drill, and then drilling with a thick one. Then he took a tap and cut a thread for an M8 bolt.

With a bolt, the flame does not go out and the air supply can be regulated.

In order to make the adjustment more reliable and so that the copper thread does not quickly slip off, the author recommends strengthening it with a metal nut. Best suited rectangular shape as in the photo below.

To do this, you need to take a file and clean all the soldering points.

Next, you need to attach the nut to the place of soldering, fix it, for this you need to screw the bolt first into the nut, and then into the thread on the tube and solder it well from all sides. Do not forget to treat all surfaces to be soldered with soldering acid!

Here's what he ended up with.

Due to the fact that the bolt cannot be fully screwed in, the needle will never be pinched or damaged!

It turned out quite nice and comfortable burner, you can safely hold it in your hands and work.

When the gas passes through the tube, it cools it, and the flame practically does not touch the burner, so the copper tube does not heat up enough to burn the hand. With such a burner it is convenient to warm the lock in the garage in winter, since gas cylinders usually do not work in sub-zero temperatures, you can put the cylinder under your jacket in warmth, and work with a burner even in fierce -50.

In order not to keep the burner constantly in his hands, the author decided to make a stand for it. To do this, you need to make two loops of wire on the burner. Loops need to be done by eye, something like in the photo below. Be careful when soldering them, as all connections can simply fall apart from overheating!

After the loops are soldered, file all the protruding parts of the wire to give the burners a more beautiful look.

Now you need to make a tripod for the burner. To do this, the author took a piece of thick plywood and drilled a hole from the edge with a thin drill. He inserted a piece of thick copper wire into this hole. The burner is mounted on a tripod with the help of soldered loops, it does not fall off it and keeps well enough.

You can make a gas burner for soldering yourself. The design has a different configuration. Often the dimensions do not exceed the length of a ballpoint pen. It is used to heat the metal for the purpose of subsequent hardening or welding. In some cases, a burner is made to heat the bitumen on the roof. Homemade devices are much cheaper than purchased analogues.

Description of the principle of operation

In some cases, a little heat is applied. This is required when it is necessary to dismantle a press fit part. For example, bushing or bearing. This is especially applicable to cases where the parts have different coefficients of expansion. Heating is also used in jobs where welding cannot be used.

DIY manufacturing process

To make homemade equipment, you need to consider some of the nuances:

The output device gives a temperature of 1000 degrees. Therefore, refractory metals are used in the manufacture.
An important condition for safe operation is a reliable crane. In the event of an accident, it must quickly cut off the air flow.
Reliability of the gas connection.

A manual gas burner for do-it-yourself soldering can be made in the form of a miniature fixture. For the manufacture of such mini-equipment, you will need materials:

brass or copper pipes;
a block of wood;
silicone or fluoroplastic as a sealing material.

The drawing of the device consists of a body in the form of a pipe ending with a nozzle. On the other side, a gas supply hose is installed. The nozzle is equipped with a divider for adjusting the flame.

A do-it-yourself gas burner for soldering is made in the following order:

A tap is attached to the tube with silicone.
On the other hand, the tube is muffled and a hole of 0.2-0.3 mm is made in it. For this, a special drill and chuck are used.
After that, the burner is clamped in a vice and the hole is flattened to 0.1 mm with a hammer.
Sandpaper removes all burrs.

The divider can be made from a brass tube that is larger than the diameter of the burner. Mounting is carried out parallel to the body. The system will work on the principle of a tourist stove. In the place where the gas comes out of the nozzle, a vacuum is formed and air is sucked in.

Device with two needles

A miniature do-it-yourself propane burner is made from 2 needles. One needle can be taken from the pump, and the other from the syringe. You will also need two droppers and a compressor from the aquarium. The device is connected to a cartridge for charging lighters. You will also need copper wire.

The temperature in such a burner reaches 1000 degrees. It is made in the following order:

The gas coming from the canister is mixed in a thick needle with the air coming from the compressor. The composition of the mixture is changed by regulators.

If there is no compressor, you can replace it with a plastic bottle:

The burner is ready for use.

The design of the device with piezo ignition

A portable gas torch with piezo ignition for soldering is characterized by the formation of a stable flame. The device consists of a cylinder that contains gas. A nozzle is installed on top. It is attached with a hose-adapter.

This design does not require heating, it does not clog and odors do not accumulate in it. It has small dimensions, weight and cost.

The task of the piezo ignition is to automatically ignite the fuel. This is convenient when there are no matches. However, this is also the most vulnerable part of the design. With proper care, it will last a long time.

A gas burner for soldering at home is a necessary thing. With its help, copper and brass items are repaired. These are the parts that make up radiators and heat exchangers. The device is of great help during the repair of the car body, when high temperatures can cause metal warping.

What is a gas burner? Many people are interested in the exact answer to this question. In short, this is a homemade propane device that has a huge number of advantages over its counterparts. In this article, we will try to understand exactly everything related to a home-made gas burner, and also answer the question “How to make a gas burner with your own hands?”

First, I would like to point out Key Features of this design. These include:

extremely easy to use;
no unpleasant and harmful odors, traces of soot and the like;
compactness that allows you to use a gas burner almost anywhere.

The homemade gas burner device includes:

metal case;
reducer;
nozzle;
fuel supply regulator;
head;
knot for fixing the gas cylinder.

The metal case includes a special glass with which the mechanism gets rid of the possibility of blowing out the flame. It also includes a metal or other handle that does not exceed 100 centimeters. A wooden holder and a gas hose are installed on top of the handle. With the help of a reducer and a tube with a valve, the level of gas supply is regulated, as well as its length, respectively. The nozzle is used to ignite the fuel, in this case the last one is propane.

Type of fuel used by the burner

As mentioned earlier, a gas burner is also called a propane burner. From this it is easy to conclude that, as a rule, it is propane or a mixture of propane and butane that is used as fuel.

With this fuel filling a special bottle which is attached to the burner.

Do-it-yourself gas burner production

As you could understand from the list of elements of the entire fixture design, it is extremely simple and does not have any complex details that you need to spend a lot of time on.

In order to make the unit with your own hands, it will take a little time and effort. And if you correctly study the material presented in this article, as well as approach the process with all seriousness and accuracy (since work is being done with flammable substances), then it will certainly be completed.

As practice and many live examples show, on average, a person who has never created home-made gas burners, 40-45 minutes after reading the instructions, was already able to boast of a do-it-yourself burner.

How to make a gas burner with your own hands

Here we come to the most interesting process. To the manufacture of the burner. The whole process of creating this unit will be described in detail below, taking into account all the nuances and tips.

So, you should start with the simplest, but no less interesting. Since the manufacture of the burner handle. In principle, any material can be used. By the way, it would be more reasonable to just use a ready-made handle from some old and unnecessary soldering iron. The inlet tube is made entirely of steel.

Do not forget to pay great attention to the dimensions of all the details. For example, the diameter of the burner inlet tube should not exceed one centimeter, and its thickness should fluctuate around 2 - 2.5 mm. This tube is inserted into the handle and fixed with glue or other quality material suitable for this purpose.

Frame

The body of the burner, oddly enough, is also made of steel. It is best to use a brass rod, the width of which should be approximately 2 centimeters. The divider can also be made from it.

Next, several holes are made in order to create oxygen circulation in the unit. After all, as everyone knows: fire cannot exist without oxygen. In the total number of such holes there should be four: each with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. They are made in the very core of the burner divider.

The next step is to forcefully press the divider, with which work was carried out a little earlier, into the body of the gas fixture. The inner flange must be installed with some clearance of about half a centimeter. With the help of this gap, in the future, a huge flow of gas suitable for the igniter will be inhibited.

Nozzle

As mentioned earlier, with the help of a nozzle, fuel is supplied, namely, propane, from its cylinder to the outside. To make it, use special metal rod. Here you will need a 2 mm drill in order to make a blind hole in the nozzle. For the jumper, we need a 4 mm drill. The holes made are hammered, and then they are undermined with the help of everyone's favorite sandpaper.

After that, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube, which must be made of a special rubber and fabric material. Fastening takes place with a conventional clamp using an ordinary screwdriver.

After the mechanism, in your opinion, is correctly fixed, it is necessary to set optimal tank pressure and apply gas from it. The air from the hose must then be completely expelled. The length of the fire with the correct location and operation of all parts should be about 40-50 mm.

In general, as mentioned earlier, a homemade gas burner is a rather unique tool that will come to the aid of any owner in any unpleasant everyday situations. And the maximum ease of its production can only attract all priorities to itself even more strongly.

Burnerking

or the saga of the burners. Part 1

Recently, our vocabulary has been enriched with new terms from various areas of public life (petting, pehting, etc.) In order to keep up with fashion and the progressive public, I called my opus" Burnerking or the saga of burners (homemade)" .
I have long had a warm (sometimes even hot) relationship with burners. Therefore, I share information with a special feeling.
It should be noted right away that we are talking about gas, propane burners. And it is injection ones, because the oxidizer (air) is sucked into them by itself with the help of a jet of combustible gas (not to be confused with explosive gas) directed to the burner outlet. Sometimes, however, air gravity is not enough, and to increase the combustion temperature of the mixture, air is pumped by a blower. But in any case, the air is not used from a cylinder, but simply atmospheric. Therefore, only one tube with gas is suitable for this type of burner, namely from a propane cylinder.Because in order to choose the right burner for your purposes,it’s not enough just to show a photo and write something, I had to record video clips. They give a clearer picture of the operation of these devices.

mini burner

This torch was originally created for soldering filigree with very small parts, so the main focus is on reducing the diameter of the flame tongue. At that time, when this burner was made, small burners with a gas cartridge in the form of a burner handle were not yet sold. Therefore, the universal medium burner (description below) is taken as the basis and all dimensions are proportionally reduced.

Soldering small parts. Sometimes there are not enough hands to add solder and hold filigree elements :) A feature of this burner is the use of a divider. This achieves flame stability over the entire pressure range (within reasonable limits, of course), namely from 0.2 to 3 kg/cm2. The amount of air is not adjustable. It is matched with the diameter of the suction holes. If, nevertheless, you feel the urge to regulate the enrichment of the mixture, place a piece of silicone tube inside the knurled ring and, by rotating the ring, you can adjust it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is about 0.12 mm.

One of the ways to manufacture the nozzle is shown. The capillary is soldered to a screw screwed into the tube. Screw on FUM. We observe alignment. It is possible without a capillary by drilling an M3 brass screw on the machine.
And what really needs to be adjusted here is the position of the tube with the nozzle. After igniting the burner, we move the tube back and forth and, having found the optimal position, fix it with a screw.

This torch is the most versatile torch for brazing small to medium sized jewelry. (Of course, if you do not need both hands to be free :) But the adjustment can be done with the same hand that holds the burner.
It also contains a divider and therefore will never go out on its own at any normal propane pressure.
Adjusting the flame with the same hand. The silicone tube protects the place where it is hung on the hook. Ebonite handle. When properly adjusted, the burner produces a narrow, long flame.

A heat-insulating sleeve is made around the burner head. Its use allows you to warm up the head, this can slightly increase the temperature of the flame. It is made of asbestos fiber with the addition of kaolin and liquid glass.
The object to be soldered must be in the flame recovery zone. You can check this by putting a piece of copper wire into the flame. In the reduction zone, the metal surface becomes shiny.

The nozzle on this burner is made in the same way as on the previous one. The matched nozzle hole diameter is 0.16 mm.
The amount of air can also be adjusted by placing a piece of silicone tube of the appropriate diameter inside the ring. But with the dimensions as in my drawing, the mixture is already quite balanced.

Medium straight burner

As you can see, I didn’t really care about the names of the burners, because the headings must be different. You have to call them something.
The next burner differs from the previous ones in the geometry of the location of the components, and the principles of operation are the same.

This burner has a softer flame, so it is better to use it for heating something (annealing wire, patination) or where the previous one cannot reach. It has the same splitter as the previous burners. And peculiarly made air suction.

There is no drawing for this burner, because the main parameters are the same as the previous burner. The head and divider, as well as the diameter of the duct, are the same. And, most importantly, the nozzle diameter is the same.

Large hand burner

This burner is similar to previous hand burners. All parameters are the same, only the power is increased. This burner can solder not only filigree, but also copper tubes of refrigerators.

The only standard component in this burner is the gas cock. But not a checkpoint, as in previous cases, but a corner one. Everything is attached to it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.23 mm.

Addition 1

Today I received another letter with a request to explain where to get capillaries and how to make a nozzle in general. It was even proposed to use electroerosion. I didn't even think it would be a problem.
So, this is how I do it. First of all, I got used to using M3 screws for injectors (a regular screw with a 3 mm diameter thread, metric).
So, take your box of M3 screws, dump it out and spread it out in an even layer. Then take the magnet and pull out all the attracting screws. You end up with screws that don't attract. The fact that they look the same as the rest should not deceive you. These are galvanized brass screws. Pictured under number 1.
If there is no M3 brass, nothing prevents you from doing this with M4.

Here are five ways for you:
- immediately drill a hole with the required drill diameter. But this is for fairly large holes and with a precision drill.
- drill on both sides of the screw with a large drill, but not completely. Then pierce this jumper with a needle or drill with a small drill.
- drill with a large drill and then fill the hole with POS solder, and then work with it, which is much easier.
- drill with a large drill, and then solder a stainless wire of the appropriate diameter coaxially into the screw with POS solder. And then pull out the wire.
And, finally, you can solder the POS with a low-melting solder into a drilled hole in a capillary of the appropriate diameter.
So, capillaries, that is, thin tubes.
Under number 2 are capillaries from instrument recorders. It is unlikely that you feel better from such advice.
But under the number 3 is the most realistic option. When the doctor gives you an injection, do not groan, do not feel sorry for yourself, but gather your will into a fist and ask the doctor to give you a needle as a keepsake. He will give, he does not mind. Thus, for your sick life and your loved ones, you will collect an extensive collection of capillaries. And if you are lucky enough to make injections with imported syringes, then the assortment will become much richer. They also have very thin needles, for example, for vaccinations.
Do not forget to also collect a collection of steel elastic wires for cleaning capillaries - number 4.
Number 5 - my new gas stove came with a whole set of nozzles with different hole diameters.
And finally, 6-terminal clamps for the installation of stranded electrical wires. A whole bunch of different sizes.

Supplement 2

Sometimes workers complain that the burner does not work or works somehow wrong. Only working designs are laid out here, there are no theoretical ones. It means that they did not see or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I will try to explain using the example of a mini-burner. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design.

1. Ensure that the supply gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg / cm2. And the nozzle hole diameter is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm.
2. The air intake holes are not closed.
3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider with a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow velocity through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are just designed to ignite the main stream. And because of the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably through them and do not allow the flame of the main stream to be blown off. This is true for all burners of this type, as shown on this page, with flame spreaders.
4. Based on the above, check if there is a gap of 2 mm between both parts of the burner head. With proper manufacture according to the drawings, this gap will be. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.

On the left is a broken burner. On the right, as it should be.
5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The section of the capillary from which the gas comes out, you need to choose its position already with the burner running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or up to these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.