How to fix swing gates from the wind. Swing gates: how to make an emphasis with your own hands? How to fix swing gates

Garage owners face difficulties with fixing the gate. Often, due to strong gusts of wind, they close on their own and they have to be opened again. To get rid of such a problem, special stops for the gate are installed, which help to hold the structure. Before installing the stops, you will have to familiarize yourself with how to install them correctly.

Sometimes the gate and garage swing gates are weakly fixed in the open position. It is for additional fixation of the sashes that special stops are installed that will help keep the structure open under any conditions. If the gate without stops is securely fixed in the open position, there is no need to install clamps.

The advantages of such products include:

• Cheapness. Even people with a limited budget can use gate clamps;
• Ease of installation. Installation of any model of stoppers takes no more than half an hour.
• Reliability. With careful use, the latches will not break for several decades.
• Resistant to high humidity. The stops have a protective coating, thanks to which they are not covered with corrosion.

The principle of operation of the devices resembles a conventional latch. The only major difference is the large size and the ability to fix large gates or gates.

Types and their design features

Before you install such a device, you need to understand its main varieties and their distinctive features. This will help you choose the right stopper.

This type of design is often used, since it is easiest to make it yourself and install it on the gate. Stoppers-locks are able to hold even the most durable gates made of iron.

To make your own gate stopper, you will need the following materials:

• two metal pipes with a diameter of one and a half centimeters and a length of about 10-15 centimeters;
• metal sheets measuring 10 x 15 centimeters;
• pins.

Among the cheap options for making clamps, carabiner stops are distinguished. To fix each of the gate leaves, you will need to prepare in advance:

• bolts with M8 thread;
• carbine;
• slings, at the end of which a fastening hook is installed for fixing.

Self-installation of stops on the carabiner takes no more than 25-30 minutes.

Hook

A fairly effective device that fixes the gate in several positions at once. Experts recommend using hooks to fix massive metal gates, which often close due to the wind. Before creating hooks-clamps, prepare the following materials:

• Steel bars one and a half meters long and ten millimeters in cross section. They are used to create a hook that will hold the gate structure.
• Corners made of metal with a thickness of more than 55 millimeters. They are used as fastening loops.

stop stop

This product is suitable for owners of garages in which the gates are sheathed with wood. To make such a latch, window hinges and wooden bars are used. One of the ends of the loops is connected to the gate leaf, and the other - to the bar.

Some do not make wooden, but metal products, for the creation of which you will need small pipes connected to the sash.

Latch trap with pawl and spring

A device of this type automatically locks the garage door and keeps it open. Such structures consist of the following components:

• hooked dog;
• a hinge responsible for the proper functioning of the dog;
• metal pipe with a diameter of forty centimeters;
• a bracket with a mounting groove that is connected to the sash;
• a dense iron sheet connected to a tube;
• a rubber gasket that is connected to the sheet.

without spring

Latches that do not use a spring are less functional, as they do not allow the gate to be automatically held. However, despite this, many garage owners install such devices.

Stops without springs are suitable for garages with metal and wooden gates.

How to build an emphasis with your own hands

Independent production of stoppers on the gate requires preliminary preparation. Therefore, it is necessary to familiarize yourself in advance with the main nuances of creating and installing gate stops.

Part selection and tool preparation

First, prepare all the tools and materials that will be needed to make the retainer.

When creating most varieties of stops, the following parts are used:

• iron pipes;
• metal plate 3-5 mm thick;
• iron corners 5-7 centimeters in length;
• rods.

Among the tools with which the work is carried out, there are:

• Welding machine. An indispensable device used for fastening parts made of metal.
• Drill. This tool is used to create holes into which mounting screws or bolts will be screwed.
• Vice. They are used to fix processed metal or wooden parts.

Assembly assembly

The production of stoppers is carried out in several stages:

• Pipe installation. All metal pipes are welded to iron plates, after which mounting holes for screws are made in the structure.
• Creating a lever. For the manufacture of the handle, a rod is welded to the upper part of the stop.
• Pin fastening. To fix it, you will have to open the sash and drive a pin to a depth of forty centimeters.

Gate mounting

At the final stage of creating an emphasis, it is installed on the gate. To do this, holes are drilled between the loops, which will be used to install the latch. Then the holes are drilled on the stopper, after which it is screwed to the gate. The fixed design of the stop must be checked for the reliability of fasteners and only then used to fix the gate.

Conclusion

Garage owners often use special stops for additional fixation of the gate. Before installing them, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of stoppers and the features of their manufacture.

When installing garage doors, you also need to take care of their fixation in the open position. After all, very often unfixed sashes can easily close on their own from the slightest gust of wind and damage your car.

To avoid such an incident, it is necessary to install a gate leaf retainer. Moreover, in this case, you will not only be able to protect the car, but also yourself, since if the garage doors are suddenly closed, they can also injure a person.

It is quite easy to make such clamps with your own hands.

Retainer-constipation

The simplest and most common option that is suitable for any garage. The principle of operation of the latch is similar to a window latch, only it is large and not mass-produced, so you will have to make it yourself.

1. First you need to prepare steel tubes with a diameter of 16 mm and a length of about 15 cm. Since the garage door has two wings, you will need two sets.

2. Then a plate is selected under the prepared pipe, the width of which should be about 10 cm, and the length should correspond to the parameters of the pipe. It is welded to the plate in the middle using a welding machine.

3. If the garage door leaf is sheathed with wood, then holes must be drilled in them to fix the plates. Then the plates are attached to the bottom with bolts. If the sheet is metal, then the plate can be welded with your own hands directly to it. It is possible to weld a guide tube without a plate

4. Next, you need to make a pin with your own hands, the length of which should be 60 mm longer than the guide pipe. In addition, the length may depend on the location of the garage. After all, the position of the open doors is sometimes higher than the entrance itself, and the pin should be lowered into the pipe about 10 cm clogged into the ground.

5. Then, to the upper edge of the pin, it is necessary to weld a lever under 900, which will be used as a handle. It can also be done by bending the edge of the pin, heating it red-hot with a gas burner.

6. Next, you need to open the garage door leaves and leave them in this position. Then mark the location of future pipes for fixing the pins. Pipes must be driven into the ground by at least 30 cm and stick out of it no more than 5 cm.

With this latch, you can fix the garage door even in the closed state.

To do this, in the lower part of the box, it is necessary to make holes of the appropriate diameter for the pin.

Hook retainer

This method of fixing the garage door leaves is also quite simple, and it will not be difficult to do it yourself.

1. First of all, you need to make a hook loop. To make it, you will need a metal corner 50 mm long, about 80 cm. On one side of the corner, you will need to drill 3 holes for fastening. On the other side, along its edges, two holes are drilled for a hook with a diameter.

2. Then you need to make a hook with your own hands. For this, a steel bar with a diameter of 12 mm is used. The length of the rod should be about 1.2 m, on the one hand it must be bent in the form of a ring, and on the other - under 900. To do this, you first need to heat it red-hot with a gas burner, and then clamp it in a vice and give it the appropriate shape.

3. Then you need to make a canopy under the hook. In this case, you can also use a 50 mm corner 15 cm long. Two holes are drilled for fastenings on one side of the corner, and one on the other side, right in the center, a hook will be hung on it.

4. Then you need to start fastening all the parts. First, you need to attach a canopy to the canvas. If it is made of wood, then the corner is attached with self-tapping screws; it can be welded onto a metal sheet by welding. Further, the holder loop is inserted into the opening of the canopy and finally bent.

5. After that, you need to attach the loop directly to the box with your own hands. As in the case of a canopy, it is attached to a wooden box with self-tapping screws, and to a metal one by welding. Since the hinge has two holes, the doors can open in two positions. They can be fully opened or left slightly ajar, in any case, they will be securely fixed.

Trap Retainer

This device has a rather complex design, since fixation occurs automatically. It is only required to bring the canvas to the latch, and he, in turn, will do the job.

For manufacturing, you will need a profile pipe 50/30 mm, a metal plate about 30 cm long and 5 cm wide.

1. To begin with, the profile pipe is buried in the ground. To make the structure more reliable, it is better to concrete it to a depth of about 40 cm. A hole is first made in the pipe for a metal plate, which will later act as a retainer.

2. Next, one edge of the plate is made under a cone, a small overlay is welded to it, which protrudes 20 mm beyond its edge and makes the element look like a hook. Then, holes are drilled on the other side and in the middle, one of them will serve to fasten it, and the other under the spring.

3. When the profile pipe is fully installed, a prepared retainer is screwed to it with a bolt. Then a ring is welded to the pipe in the lower part, for which the second end of the spring clings, which, in turn, returns the latch to its original position.

4. To keep it in a horizontal position, a stopper is welded onto the pipe from the side of the spring, which can be made from metal scraps. To fix the garage door, it is enough to press it against the fabricated structure.

Latch for gate leaves according to the type of latch

The easiest and favorite option for home craftsmen. The stopper works much like an old-fashioned window latch, but its size is much more impressive. Such a device has not yet been mass-produced, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. For this you will need:

• two steel tubes (one for each swing gate leaf) about 15 cm long and 1.6 cm in diameter;
• steel plates 10 cm wide and 15 cm long;
• pins freely entering the branch pipe, at least 20 cm long.

The whole process of making a latch with your own hands consists of several stages:

1. Steel tubes are welded to the plates and then attached to the bottom of the gate. For sashes sheathed with wood, this is done using self-tapping screws; the plate is simply welded to metal sashes.
2. A lever is welded to the upper end of the pin at a right angle, playing the role of a handle or just a pin, preheated on a gas burner, which is bent and inserted into the pipe.
3. Now we open the sash and find a place where it will be necessary to drive the counterpart of our “espagnolette” to a depth of about 30 cm. We take into account that the pin should enter it by at least 10 cm. Do not forget that the gate leaf can be located slightly higher than the entrance level.
4. So that the pin does not interfere with opening the swing gates, we weld a hook above the lock, on which the pin handle will rest.

But consider the disadvantages of this device. The return pipe, into which the pin should be lowered, can be covered with snow in winter and will have to be dug out, for which there is not always time. You can do without a counterpart, but in this case, the ends of the pins should be pointed. Such a latch will, of course, be less reliable than the original version, but in extreme cases it will do. If there are no steel pipes of the required diameter, you can slightly modify the fixture. Replace it with two or three loops. It turns out a simple, but quite effective design.

Retainer-constipation

The work on the manufacture of fixatives-constipation can be divided into six main stages:

The first stage is the preparation of metal pipes 150 mm long and 16 mm wide. Since the gate usually consists of two wings, two sets will be needed.

The second stage is the selection of metal plates, the length of which must correspond to the dimensions of the prepared pipes. The width of one such plate should be approximately 100 mm. At the same stage, the plate must be attached to one of the ends of the pipe by conventional welding.

The third stage is the attachment of the plates to the door leaf. The method of attachment depends on the material from which the canvas is made. If the surface of the wings is wooden, then in their lower part you need to make holes with a drill and attach the plates with bolts. And if the sashes are sheathed with metal, then the plates should simply be welded. However, in the case of metal gates, you can do without auxiliary plates. Pipes can firmly join such doors without them.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of a pin a little over 20 cm long. In general, its length depends on the guide pipe and on the position of the gate itself at the moment when they are open. After all, often the sashes are located higher than the entrance, and the main function of this pin is to descend into a pipe installed in the soil with a length of about 100 mm.

The fifth stage is the attachment of the lever to the upper end of the pin. This element will be used as a handle. However, the handle can be made in another way: it is enough to carefully heat the pin with a gas burner and bend its edge.

The sixth stage is driving pipes into the soil. First you need to determine where the pipes will be located. To do this, open the gate and mark a point directly below them. This is where the pipes will be installed. The length of one such pipe should be approximately 35 cm. Most of it (at least 30 cm) must be driven into the soil, and the rest, the length of which should not exceed 5 cm, will stick out of the ground. After opening the gate, a special pin, which is attached to the bottom of their wings, must be lowered into this pipe, and then they will remain in the open position until the owner considers it necessary to close them.

With the help of this kind of latch, the method of creation of which was described above, it is possible to fix the gate leaves not only in the open, but also in the closed state. This simple device can serve not only as a latch, but also as a lock that protects against thieves. Accordingly, in this case, the pipes for the gate valves should be installed at the site of the area over which the flaps are located, being closed.

If there is no desire to make a constipation for the gate with your own hands, then you can always buy it as a finished element of any diameter and length.

Constipation-fixators

Such constipation can hardly be called bolts. They are designed to tightly lock the gate and are mainly used in garages. There it is possible to put two deadbolts, at the top and bottom, which is rarely the case on the gates of the fence.

The most common design is mined in spare parts for trucks and Gazelles. Lock for the doors of the van, for the sides - a ready-made option. It remains only to attach it to your gate.

The principle of operation is simple, it can even be repeated independently. The fixed part is caught by the loop and pulls the sash. She cannot jump out of the extreme position herself. For reliability, it is enough to hang a small padlock.

Trap Retainer

This device has a rather complex design, since fixation occurs automatically. It is only required to bring the canvas to the latch, and he, in turn, will do the job.

For manufacturing, you will need a profile pipe 50/30 mm, a metal plate about 30 cm long and 5 cm wide.

1. To begin with, the profile pipe is buried in the ground. To make the structure more reliable, it is better to concrete it to a depth of about 40 cm. A hole is first made in the pipe for a metal plate, which will later act as a retainer.

2. Next, one edge of the plate is made under a cone, a small overlay is welded to it, which protrudes 20 mm beyond its edge and makes the element look like a hook. Then, holes are drilled on the other side and in the middle, one of them will serve to fasten it, and the other under the spring.

3. When the profile pipe is fully installed, a prepared retainer is screwed to it with a bolt. Then a ring is welded to the pipe in the lower part, for which the second end of the spring clings, which, in turn, returns the latch to its original position.

4. To keep it in a horizontal position, a stopper is welded onto the pipe from the side of the spring, which can be made from metal scraps. To fix the garage door, it is enough to press it against the fabricated structure.

Features of stops

The purpose of the stoppers is to serve as a kind of latch in the open state of the gate leaves. In the working position, the stops for the garage door do not allow the wind to close the sash. The rod rests on the ground, fixing the frame in place. When closing, the thrust mechanism rises and does not interfere with free movement. Shops offer a stop for the gate DMX 8822 350 mm and a similar design with a short rod 250x14 mm st250.

Both models are produced in China by Domax. They differ only in the length of the stop.

model on the gate

Mechanisms consist of the following elements:

• bracket with holes for fastening to the sash with self-tapping screws;
• pin;
• spring.

The bracket is a round plate bent in a U-shape. Inside it is inserted a tube 14 mm thick. It is attached to the U-shaped plate with a bolt that acts as an axis of rotation. The spring is fixed in the place where the bracket fits to the door and is fixed on the stop tube. A rubber pad is put on the lower end of the pin. When not in use, the leg rises and is held by a spring. Stops are available with pin sizes of 350 mm and 250 mm. The latest model with a short pin, door.

Spring lock mechanism

By analogy with ready-made models, a home-made emphasis is made for garage doors. It rests at an angle on the ground, not allowing the gate leaf to close from the wind.

Ready-made anti-winds have a beautiful appearance, gilded coating. They can be installed in minutes. The purchase price is less than 500 rubles. Thanks to the rubber pads, the legs do not scratch the floor and do not slide on the ground.

Homemade locking structures for garage doors look worse, but are stronger than purchased ones and can withstand heavy loads. They can be welded to metal frames.

Garage door installation diagram

Purchased, as well as most homemade stops, do not allow the sash to close. If the gate is not fully open, then the wind can open it.

DMX models for swing gates do not withstand strong gusts of wind and slide on the surface of asphalt and concrete.

Bolt on the gate to buy or do it yourself

Locks for gates are usually bought, and for gates they are made independently. What's the matter here? There are several reasons:

• The gate is used more often, the mechanism should work like a clock. Can you do it yourself?
• Constipation for the gate is always in sight. It should have a beautiful appearance and at the same time some kind of secret opening mechanism or an ordinary mortise or overhead lock.
• Gates are more or less standard and the choice of locking devices is sufficient to choose the right one.
• Gates are more individual: dimensions, materials, design. Constipation is hidden. No one wants to open such wide access to their site or garage. Beauty fades into the background, the main thing is reliability and safety. Therefore, we make bolts for the gate, each in its own way. And what design we will choose is already a secret.

Making constipation with your own hands

• Locks on the eyes. The most common option, which is easiest to make with your own hands. In the central part of the wings, in the place where they are adjacent to each other, one eye is welded on each side. In the resulting opening, it will subsequently be possible to hang an ordinary padlock.
• pin mechanism. A standard device that works on the principle of constipation on containers. At the corners of the wings, by welding, it is installed vertically along one hollow metal pipe. In this case, the tube should not be longer than 20 cm. The same pipe sections are dug into the ground. Then 2 40–50 cm pieces of reinforcement are taken, which are shaped into a latch. After that, each constipation is “threaded” vertically through hollow tubes.
• Bolt. To make such a constipation for the gate with your own hands, you will need 4 metal brackets, a base and a latch. The staples are welded to the metal base, and a deadbolt is passed through them. To prevent the bolt from falling out, you can weld a small handle or other limiter to it. In order for DIY manufacturing to be as reliable as possible, the length of the bolt should be equal to the length of the gate leaf.
• Latch. 4 or 6 L-shaped metal hooks of the same size are required. Hooks are installed approximately at the points of contact of the gate leaves and at opposite ends. A metal tube or bolt is threaded through this structure. As in the previous version, it is possible to give the bolt the shape of a latch.

Such models have huge advantages: the ability to create them yourself, ease of operation and reliability. For these reasons, hand-held defense mechanisms have gained such popularity.

Hook

This version of the stop for the gate is also very simple. It does not take much time and physical effort to make such a latch.

All work can be divided into five stages:

The first stage is the manufacture of a hook loop. To do this, you need to take a metal corner 5 cm wide and about 0.8 m long. Three holes are made on one side of this corner. And on the other side, two holes should be made along the edges. Their diameter should correspond to the thickness of the future hook.

The second stage is the manufacture of the hook itself. This element is made of a steel rod with a diameter of slightly more than 1 cm. The optimal length of the rod is 120 cm. One end of it must be bent so that it takes the form of a ring. In this case, the opposite end should be bent at a right angle. Of course, the rod must first be heated with a gas burner, and then securely fixed in a vice, so that it is more convenient to give it the desired shape.

The third stage is the creation of a canopy. A metal corner 5 cm wide is also suitable for this, and the optimal length is 150 mm. Two holes are made on one side of it, which will then be used for fastening. On the other side, in the middle, you need to drill only one hole for hanging the hook.

The fourth stage is the attachment of all prepared structural elements. First of all, you need to attach a canopy to the wings. If the surface of the canvas is wooden, then the corner should be attached with self-tapping screws. If the sashes are made of metal, then it is advisable to simply weld the corner. The holder loop must be inserted into the opening of the canopy and bent.

The fifth stage is attaching the loop to the box. Here you can also use either welding if the box is made of metal; or self-tapping screws if it is made of wood. Since the hinge has not one, but two holes, an open gate can be fixed in two positions: either fully open or slightly ajar. But regardless of which of the two positions the sashes are in, there is no doubt about the reliability of their fixation. After all, the stoppers in the form of a hook perform their main function well.

On the video: How the hook works.

Modern types of constipation

Progress does not stand still, and now it is not uncommon to see electric drives or electric locks on the gates. For automation of swing gates, both solenoid-type drives and a device consisting of electric motors and cables are used. The latter type is often assembled independently, unless, of course, this applies to sliding gates that work exactly on this principle.

To close the gate, two types of locks are mainly used - electromechanical and electromagnetic.

Electromagnetic locks are quite common in specialty stores and organizations involved in access control systems. The principle of their operation is that when voltage is applied to it, an electromagnet is activated, which attracts the gate or gate leaf to itself. Moreover, the attraction occurs with a rather large force, and it is almost impossible to open such gates without special equipment.

Mounted electromagnetic gate lock

Electromechanical locks

For some particularly avid security enthusiasts, companies can currently offer a fingerprint detector that will open the gate when a fingerprint is read. For gates, these systems are usually additionally equipped with audio or video intercoms, which allow you to talk to the visitor from home and open the gate for him. Recently, these devices operate on an electric current of no more than 12 volts, which makes them safe to use and eliminates electric shock.

Electromagnetic lock option for welded gates

There is a very wide range of locks and locks for gates and gates on the market. Various designs of deadbolts and their types will allow almost every owner to choose deadbolts to their taste and needs. The choice of device depends on the goal to be achieved, and, of course, financial capabilities. Some simple types of constipation can be made independently at home.

Scheme with dimensions for making a homemade deadbolt on the gate

Hook

This type of limiter is also simple in execution, but has a slightly more attractive appearance. To make it you will need:

• steel corners: one measuring 5 cm and approximately 70 cm long, the other 20 cm long;
• steel bar with a diameter of 1.2 cm and a length of 10 cm;
• additional materials: welding machine, drill, self-tapping screws.

The fixer is performed in several stages:

1. Take a large corner and drill 3 holes on one side of it - left, right and in the middle, then 2 more on the sides on the other side.
   Focus on holes with a diameter of 6 mm and 13 mm, respectively. The main condition is that the end of the bar must freely enter the drilled holes.
2. The next step is the most difficult - we make a hook from a bar.
   To do this, you need to bend the holder in the form of a hook, you must first warm it up with a blowtorch. The other side is bent in the form of a ring. The main thing is to leave gaps so that in the future it will be possible to put the hook on the canopy.
3. Next, a smaller corner comes into play, from which there will be a canopy.
   In the upper shelf, you need to drill one hole measuring 1.4 cm in diameter and in the vertical shelf two more on the sides, but already smaller - 0.6 cm. The first serves to fix the hook.
4. At the end, you need to fix the corners - a large one on the gate frame, a small one - on the sash.
   As in the case of the previous latch, welding is used for metal gates, and self-tapping screws are used for wooden gates. Then put on the hook.

The method is quite simple and reliable. According to user reviews, it can withstand strong gusts of wind, however, for the purpose of securing, you can combine a stopper-hook and constipation.

Do-it-yourself constipation valves

This type of deadbolt is more popular and you can find several different designs in the store: flat, round, with springs. But they are easy to make with your own hands from improvised means. To do this, it is desirable to have:

We begin the manufacture of the valve by searching for a pair of pipe-rod. The rod (locking bar) must move freely in the pipe. Note that the pipe does not have to be round. A rod with a diameter of 10 mm is included in a profile pipe 15x15 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm. To strengthen it, you can insert it into a pipe of the next size (20x20) and weld the edges. The wall thickness will be 4 mm - more than enough.

The simplest version of the valve is when three pieces of pipe and a rod are taken. Two segments are welded directly onto the gate leaves, a bar is inserted and a bolt handle is welded (like a window bolt). The counterpart is attached to another sash.

In a more complex version, two pieces of pipe are welded to a strip of metal, travel stops, lugs for a lock, and sometimes a return spring are added. Then such a valve can be screwed onto self-tapping screws, bolts, welded to any gate.

Clamps for sashes in extreme positions are made according to the same type, only pipe sections are welded vertically in the lower and upper parts of the sashes.

Other options for simple fixators

You can make a very simple, but easy-to-use gate latch from two metal plates with a common axis of rotation. In order to fix the gate in the desired position, it is enough just to press the bar with your foot, after which it will immediately fall and will not allow the doors to close. The disadvantage of such an emphasis is that it requires the installation site to be cleared of snow in winter.

Another fairly simple version of the gate stop requires two rather strong nails and a piece of steel wire a little less than 1 cm thick. In order for the support strength to be maximum, you need to make sure that the angle between the main stop element and the ground surface is 50 degrees.

In order for such a latch to begin to fulfill its main function, it is enough to lightly kick it with your foot after the gate is open and brought to the selected fixation point. Then, in the same way, with the help of a slight movement of the foot, you can remove the latch from the working state and calmly close the gate. One of the main advantages of such a device is that it does not need maintenance either in winter or in summer.

Vertical bolts for swing gates

Such bolts most often perform an auxiliary function, they securely fix the lower part of the gate, and also help to keep the leaves in the open position. They also use a rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm, L-shaped and a tube of the corresponding inner diameter.

1. The tube is welded at the bottom of the gate.
2. A pin is inserted into it and fixed in a hole in the ground, base concrete or gate frame.
3. In order for the deadbolt to be fixed in the open position, an additional stop can be welded to the sash.

Top vertical bolts can be used in garage doors to secure them more securely. In this case, an additional emphasis is needed so that the bolt does not fall out when opening.

Consider the manufacture of each type of deadbolt in more detail.

Do-it-yourself "Turntable" device

pinwheel- one of the oldest and most popular types of deadbolt. It can be used on entrance or garage doors, often used to lock barns, sheds and other rooms where there are double swing gates. This is the most "popular" and easy-to-make type. The main advantage is that it is very easy to make it yourself.

A similar deadbolt for swing gates will have to be done with your own hands also because they are not produced industrially. It is made separately for each gate.

1. Take a bar or steel strip (thin channel) of the required length. The recommended length is approximately 2/3 of the width of the gate leaf so that it captures at least a third of each leaf for security. Usually it is equal to a meter. If it is a wooden beam, then its thickness should be at least 5 mm, if it is a steel strip, then from 5 mm with a width of about 50 mm.
2. In one of the wings, not far from the edge (60-100 mm), it is necessary to make a through hole for the M10 - M12 bolt. The bolt must have a wide head and sufficient length (gate thickness + striker bar thickness + 2 washers thickness + space for 2 nuts).
3. The head of the bolt must not be visible or have sharpened edges so that it cannot be unscrewed from the outside.
4. A bar or channel is drilled in the middle and put on a bolt, secured with locknuts.
5. Fixed channels are fixed on both wings, into which the beam or strip enters when turning. The slots can be made wedge-shaped so that the leaves are stronger and easier to pull when closing.

This type of bolt is characterized by high strength, reliability and clamping capacity. In addition, it is very popular with those who strive to do everything themselves.

The thickness of the wooden beam must be at least 50 mm for constipation

Bolt on the gate type "barrier"

This swivel bolt is also used frequently. It can be made of a wooden beam or an iron strip (channel).

• Mark the hole on the strip for the hole for the M10 - M12 bolt. The hole is not made in the middle, as in the previous case, but at a distance of 60-80 mm from one of the ends. The bolt length is calculated as in the previous case.
• A place is marked for a hole on the gate leaf (by attaching a deadbolt in the door in place) and a through hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled. It should be noted that in this case the bolt carries a power load, so the head must be wide, providing a reliable stop for the bolt.

The head of the bolt must not twist from the outside. Therefore, it must either be hidden under the coating, or have sharpened edges.

• Three grips are made on the wings. One is on the same leaf where the bolt is attached, next to the end of the gate. The second one is opposite it, near the end of the second leaf, and the third one is near the far end of the bolt. If necessary, eyelets for a padlock can be made in it.

How to make a sliding bolt for the gate

This is also a very common design. Once such bolts were made of wood, but today the more common material is steel strips. Making it yourself is not difficult, having a set of tools and locksmith skills.

1. Take a steel strip about 400 mm long and about 50 mm wide.
2. The strip must move in special guide grooves. These guides can be fixed to the plate by welding and then the bolt can be attached to the sash with self-tapping screws or welding.
3. After the deadbolt is fixed on one sash, another groove is fixed on the second, which will fix the second sash.

This type of deadbolt is often supplied with a shackle in order to fix it with a padlock.

Make your own latch type "espagnolette"

For a deadbolt, a smooth rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm is best suited. A handle is attached to the rod to form a T-shape (the easiest way is by welding, but you can also drill a hole in the rod, cut a thread and screw a bolt into it). It is also necessary to select a steel tube with such an internal diameter that the flow enters it without delays and backlashes.

1. Cut the tube into three parts - a long one (about 10 cm) and two short ones (5 cm each).
2. Weld a long tube to one of the wings. On the opposite sash, weld a shorter segment so that the rod enters it.
3. Having inserted the rod into the tubes to the end, put another short piece of tube on the free end and attach it by welding. Make sure the gate opens and closes freely.
4. In order for the deadbolt to be fixed in the closed state, weld a metal plate or corner that fixes the handle in this position. You can add a padlock eye to the plate to secure the deadbolt.

Locking systems for garage doors

A distinctive feature of the design of constipation is their ability to withstand brute physical force and the complete absence of the ability to unlock the constipation from the outside.

The most common designs of locking systems for garage doors:

• Door latch or latch. The easiest and easiest way to close garage doors from the inside;
• Bolts and vertical stoppers. This type of constipation has an average resistance and a relatively simple design;
• Special locking systems with swivel posts and levers. More often, the design of such locks is copied from container, wagon and even ship doors.

Important! In order for the locking mechanism to be highly resistant to burglary or shock loads, the locking rod or pin must enter the seat without play.

Most often, to fix the gate leaf to the frame without a gap, various levers and gates are used, which press the locks and latches for garage doors to the bearing elements - the threshold and the upper beam.

This method of fixing the doors helps to prevent the "hanging" of the sash in strong winds and drafts, the main thing is that the absence of a gap does not allow intruders to break the socket or groove for the fixing rod.

Types of locks for doors and their photos

We invite you to look at the photo types of locks for doors and descriptions of various locking mechanisms. This knowledge should be enough for the correct choice of these elements.

Padlock and its photo

The padlock is the most popular and easy to use. By design, they can be classic, with a digital dialing code and with limited access to the shackle. We offer to see the padlock in the photo in various versions.

Mortise. They are used only on wooden leaves or on metal gates and wickets with a hollow structure. By design, they can be one, two, three, four and five reeds with and without an automatic latch, with or without a handle.

Rim lock and its photo

The overhead lock can be installed on metal and wooden doors. The locking mechanisms and key barrels in such locks should be protected from freezing, and the handles should have large shapes so that the door can be easily opened with gloves or mittens. In the photo, the overhead lock is presented in different types of locking mechanisms.

Combination lock and its photo

There are two types of combination lock: electromechanical and with a key lock system. The first operates automatically when a certain code is dialed, the second is opened only with a key when the correct combination of numbers is dialed. Look at the photo of a combination lock in various designs for comparison with similar types of locking mechanisms.

Locking options

• 1 Locking options
• 2 Modern types of constipation
• 3 Self-made deadbolt
• 4 Conclusion on the topic

What is the difference between gate locks and ordinary locks? First of all, the lack of a key. There is no need to carry extra keys with you, as you can securely close the sash at any time with the help of constipation.

1. Vertical bolts. A fairly convenient design that allows you to securely fasten the gate leaves or gates. Its most common use is constipation for swing gates of the garage. To fix the gate leaves, metal rods with handles are used, which are included in the grooves of the floor and ceiling, and securely fix the gate in the closed position. The fixation of the locks themselves is provided by fastenings on the gate, made in the form of shelves, where the lock handles are inserted by turning them. A simple vertical type deadbolt on the gate
2. A simple vertical bolt. It is mainly used for built-in gates and is a small copy of a vertical lock. Mounted at the top or bottom of the gate.
3. Horizontal bolts. The horizontal latch is used on almost all gates and wickets. The principle of operation is practically no different from the vertical type of shutters and, having a fairly simple design, is perhaps the most common type of deadbolt.
4. Bolts with fixation by means of springs. This type of lock is mainly used to fix the gate or gate in the opening and is installed on the inside of the gate. Spring-loaded design allows effortless actuation of the mechanism. For greater reliability, it is proposed to install duplicate bolts. Different sizes of bolts on gate springs
5. Mortise lock. With relatively high reliability, this type of constipation is quite easy to buy at almost any hardware store and quite difficult to do it yourself. To install it, you need to drill a hole in the base of the gate. The disadvantage is that you must carry the key to this lock with you.
6. Movable overhead bolts. This device is distinguished by its simplicity and is installed on almost any type of material. This lock can be installed on either side of the gate, the only prerequisite is a flat surface of the material. Reinforced flat rod provides this type of deadbolt with high reliability and strength of gate closing. Often such locks are duplicated by padlocks that do not allow the bolt to be opened when the padlock is closed.
7. Screw gates are mounted on the front of the gate and are also easy to use. The basis of the mechanism is a threaded pin and a turnkey base, on which there is a small tubercle and a slot. Using a key with an identical cutout and spire to the base, the shutter device is activated. This type of lock is quite simple and it will not be difficult to do it yourself, but the mechanism itself requires quite a lot of free space in the gate to install it. Moreover, picking up the key to such a lock is not difficult, so you should not rely on it too much.
8. Rack bolt. This type of lock is quite difficult to make at home without a turning tool and relevant experience. The mechanism consists of keys with special grooves carved into them and the basis of the deadbolt corresponding to these grooves. Such a device has a fairly long service life and is distinguished by its reliability, however, even for this type of constipation, the keys are quite simply faked. These deadbolts are recommended to be supplemented with other types of constipation.
9. Groove constipation with a rotary mechanism. With a fairly simple design, this mechanism has a high quality and a level of protection against opening the lock. However, despite the low complexity of the device, its independent production requires quite a lot of experience and the appropriate tool. The principle of operation of the mechanism is based on the fact that the key, when entering the keyhole, with the help of circular movements, activates the gears of the mechanism, which in turn opens or closes the gate.

Types of locks for gates

It is difficult to come up with a completely new deadbolt on the gate, and why? There are enough of them:

1. "Turntables". This is the name of constipation with an axis of rotation in the middle. When turning the “wings”, the turntables lock both doors. Simple temporary constipation, used when you are away for a short time.
2. "Barriers". A kind of turntables, when the axis of rotation is located on the edge of the bolt for the gate.
3. "Spingers". Bolts on gates of this type are the most common. You can buy them ready-made (beautiful and not very strong) or make them yourself (powerful, but unpresentable). A deadbolt for this type of gate is used not only for locking, but also for fixing the leaves in the desired position. If necessary, the designs of these three types can be supplemented with “ears” and a lock can be hung.
4. Constipation with fixation. This type is used to lock the doors of vans, the sides of trucks.
5. Locking mechanisms like a safe. When the handle is turned, the sashes are attracted and fixed in two places at once, top and bottom.

Note that all bolts on the gate are not intended for prying eyes, so the appearance requirements do not apply to them.

Traps

Devices of this kind have a more complex design, but their big plus is automatic fixation. There are two types of execution - with a spring and without.

Trap with spring

Before you start, prepare:

• a profile tube measuring 5 by 3 cm;
• a metal plate measuring 30 cm long and 5 cm wide;
• bolts;
• spring;
• ring.

The fixer is created in several steps:

1. The pipe must be buried in the ground, after making a hole on it for the plate, in the future it will be the gate stopper.
   To make the structure more reliable, it is recommended to concrete it.
2. From one part of the plate you need to make a cone, then weld a small overlay to it.
   It should protrude about 2 cm beyond the edge, and as a result, the design will become a bit like a hook. On the other part of the plate and in the middle, make holes, one will be needed for the fasteners, and the other for the spring.
3. After installing the pipe, screw the clamp made in the second stage to it using bolts.
   A ring must be welded to the bottom, for which the end of the spring will cling. She will return the stopper to its original position.
4. To ensure a horizontal position, weld the retainer onto the pipe on the spring side.
   It can be made from scrap metal. The action of the stopper is due to the pressing of the garage door to it.

Trap without spring

There is an option to make a reliable stop-trap without a spring. To do this, you need a thick plate of steel, pre-curved on one side and welded to the curved end of the handle. A steel bar must be welded to the underside of the plate, in the future it will be inserted into the brackets fixed in the ground.

It should be remembered that the correct operation of the latch will be ensured if the non-curved part of the plate is longer and much heavier than the curved one. Only in this case, the gate leaves will be able to lower the end of the plate due to their mass.

Then the flat side will fall and the end with the welded handle will rise, as a result, the sash is fixed. To close the gate, you only need to lower the handle.

Trap catch with pawl and spring

A more complex device that has the advantage of allowing the gate to be locked automatically. It consists:

• a bracket with a groove, made from a 50 mm corner, which is attached to the sash;
• dog in the form of a hook;
• hinge, which will ensure the mobility of the dog;
• steel pipe with a diameter of 40 mm;
• a metal plate 4 mm thick welded to the pipe;
• rubber gasket glued to the plate. It is necessary for the device to work silently. Stop for gate leaves with a spring

The pipe with the dog is attached at the right distance from the wall. The bracket is fixed on the gate leaf. The principle of operation is quite simple. When the sash moves, the bracket attached to it raises the pawl, which then lowers and securely fixes the sash.

A similar device can be placed at the bottom of the gate, you just have to supply it with a spring. It will return the dog to a horizontal position. To subsequently close the gate, it is enough to slightly lower the dog with your foot.

factory products

Production mechanisms are similar to those made by hand. They are also reliable and easy to use. However, instead of the time spent on manufacturing, you will have to pay with finances. The following models are currently the most popular:

• Pens. Rotary or push-on can be used. The functions of such handles are similar - to ensure the opening / closing of the gate and fix their position in the closed state. The only exceptions are that the former must be rotated, and the latter must be pressed in. For the manufacture of such a mechanism, special equipment is required, therefore they are produced only in factories, and supplied as a set or separately.
• Rim locks. As the name implies, they are installed on the door or gate. The main advantage during installation is a small scope of work. Here it is enough to fix the device on one leaf, and put a plug on the second.
• Combination locks. Such protective mechanisms were popular in the entrances of many residential buildings before the onset of the “era of intercoms”. Indeed, it is enough to press 2-3 buttons and the door will immediately open. However, a significant drawback is that attackers can easily decipher the lock code if it is used for a long time. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase a combination lock, which also has a key lock. It is worth saying that despite the shortcomings and difficulty in installation, such devices are still found everywhere on gates and garage doors.

An emphasis or latch for swing gates is the easiest and most common option to securely fix the leaves. It has the same principle of operation as the latch that closes the window. The difference is only in size. But if the latches are mass-produced, and they can be purchased at the store, then the gate latches will have to be made independently, taking into account the characteristics of the wings.

The work on the manufacture of fixatives-constipation can be divided into six main stages:

The first stage is the preparation of metal pipes 150 mm long and 16 mm wide. Since the gate usually consists of two wings, two sets will be needed.

The second stage is the selection of metal plates, the length of which must correspond to the dimensions of the prepared pipes. The width of one such plate should be approximately 100 mm. At the same stage, the plate must be attached to one of the ends of the pipe by conventional welding.

The third stage is the attachment of the plates to the door leaf. The method of attachment depends on the material from which the canvas is made. If the surface of the wings is wooden, then in their lower part you need to make holes with a drill and attach the plates with bolts. And if the sashes are sheathed with metal, then the plates should simply be welded. However, in the case of metal gates, you can do without auxiliary plates. Pipes can firmly join such doors without them.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of a pin a little over 20 cm long. In general, its length depends on the guide pipe and on the position of the gate itself at the moment when they are open. After all, often the sashes are located higher than the entrance, and the main function of this pin is to descend into a pipe installed in the soil with a length of about 100 mm.

The fifth stage is the attachment of the lever to the upper end of the pin. This element will be used as a handle. However, the handle can be made in another way: it is enough to carefully heat the pin with a gas burner and bend its edge.

The sixth stage is driving pipes into the soil. First you need to determine where the pipes will be located. To do this, open the gate and mark a point directly below them. This is where the pipes will be installed. The length of one such pipe should be approximately 35 cm. Most of it (at least 30 cm) must be driven into the soil, and the rest, the length of which should not exceed 5 cm, will stick out of the ground. After opening the gate, a special pin, which is attached to the bottom of their wings, must be lowered into this pipe, and then they will remain in the open position until the owner considers it necessary to close them.

With the help of this kind of latch, the method of creation of which was described above, it is possible to fix the gate leaves not only in the open, but also in the closed state. This simple device can serve not only as a latch, but also as a lock that protects against thieves. Accordingly, in this case, the pipes for the gate valves should be installed at the site of the area over which the flaps are located, being closed.

If there is no desire to make a constipation for the gate with your own hands, then you can always buy it as a finished element of any diameter and length.

This version of the stop for the gate is also very simple. It does not take much time and physical effort to make such a latch.

All work can be divided into five stages:

The first stage is the manufacture of a hook loop. To do this, you need to take a metal corner 5 cm wide and about 0.8 m long. Three holes are made on one side of this corner. And on the other side, two holes should be made along the edges. Their diameter should correspond to the thickness of the future hook.

The second stage is the manufacture of the hook itself. This element is made of a steel rod with a diameter of slightly more than 1 cm. The optimal length of the rod is 120 cm. One end of it must be bent so that it takes the form of a ring. In this case, the opposite end should be bent at a right angle. Of course, the rod must first be heated with a gas burner, and then securely fixed in a vice, so that it is more convenient to give it the desired shape.

The third stage is the creation of a canopy. A metal corner 5 cm wide is also suitable for this, and the optimal length is 150 mm. Two holes are made on one side of it, which will then be used for fastening. On the other side, in the middle, you need to drill only one hole for hanging the hook.

The fourth stage is the attachment of all prepared structural elements. First of all, you need to attach a canopy to the wings. If the surface of the canvas is wooden, then the corner should be attached with self-tapping screws. If the sashes are made of metal, then it is advisable to simply weld the corner. The holder loop must be inserted into the opening of the canopy and bent.

The fifth stage is attaching the loop to the box. Here you can also use either welding if the box is made of metal; or self-tapping screws if it is made of wood. Since the hinge has not one, but two holes, an open gate can be fixed in two positions: either fully open or slightly ajar. But regardless of which of the two positions the sashes are in, there is no doubt about the reliability of their fixation. After all, the stoppers in the form of a hook perform their main function well.

On the video: How the hook works.

Such a device differs from the two described above by a rather complex design. Making it with your own hands is no longer so easy. The manufacturing process is complicated by the fact that the fixation of the open gate is carried out automatically, but such stoppers are much more convenient to use. After all, it is enough to bring the sash to them, and they themselves will securely fix it.

So, for the manufacture of traps, you will need a metal pipe with a rectangular section of 5x3 cm and a rectangular plate with sides of 30 cm and 5 cm.

Having prepared these materials, you can begin work, which usually takes place in four stages:

The first stage is the installation of a professional pipe. First, a hole is dug, then a pipe is placed strictly vertically in it. The empty space around to a depth of about 40 cm is filled with concrete mix. Beforehand, it is necessary to drill a hole in the professional pipe for attaching a metal plate, which in the future will act as a retainer.

The second stage is working with the plate. A couple of holes need to be drilled in it, and one edge must be bent under a cone and a small overlay protruding beyond the edge of the plate by about 2 cm should be attached by welding. The result should be an element that looks like a hook. As for the two holes, one of them should be made in the center of the plate, and the other - from the edge. Using one of them, the plate will be attached to the pipe, and the second hole is needed for the spring.

The third stage is screwing the latch to the professional pipe. After making sure that the pipe, buried in the ground and filled with concrete, is strictly vertical, you can attach the retainer that was made earlier to it. This is done with a bolt. After that, a metal ring must be welded to the bottom of the pipe. One of the ends of the spring, designed to return the device to its original position, must cling to this ring.

The fourth stage is the attachment of a special stopper, necessary to hold the spring in a horizontal position. This stopper can be made from pieces of metal left after performing any other work. In order for the open gate leaves to be fixed in the desired position, they only need to be pressed against the created structure.

Other options for simple fixators

You can make a very simple, but easy-to-use gate latch from two metal plates with a common axis of rotation. In order to fix the gate in the desired position, it is enough just to press the bar with your foot, after which it will immediately fall and will not allow the doors to close. The disadvantage of such an emphasis is that it requires the installation site to be cleared of snow in winter.

Another fairly simple version of the gate stop requires two rather strong nails and a piece of steel wire a little less than 1 cm thick. In order for the support strength to be maximum, you need to make sure that the angle between the main stop element and the ground surface is 50 degrees.

In order for such a latch to begin to fulfill its main function, it is enough to lightly kick it with your foot after the gate is open and brought to the selected fixation point. Then, in the same way, with the help of a slight movement of the foot, you can remove the latch from the working state and calmly close the gate.
One of the main advantages of such a device is that it does not need maintenance either in winter or in summer.