Construction of a basement under a country house. Cellar under the house: construction of a pit, floor, walls and ceilings, ventilation and drainage

The basement today performs many functions and is an important detail of any living space. It can act not only as a building for storing provisions or seasonal items, but also be a full-fledged residential area. Proper arrangement of the basement will help organize a reliable place to store food, perform the function of a wine cellar, gym or boiler room.

Peculiarities

What is commonly called a basement has many variations and individual names.

There are many types of basements that differ in functionality and location features, namely:

• basement. The base is located below the zero mark. Comfortable temperature is achieved naturally or with the help of various heating devices;
• underground - this is the area under the building between the soil and the base of the first floor;
• technical underground. It houses engineering communications: electrical cables, water supply, sewerage system. The technical underground can also house boilers and pumps;

• underground with ventilation. In buildings built in areas with very low temperatures, it is necessary to constantly ventilate the room between the soil and the building itself. Such an underground is located under the basement or technical floor;
• the basement is located below the zero mark. Often used as a workshop, sauna, garage or boiler room;
• The cellar is often used to store food. It can be placed both under the dwelling and separately on the site.

In this article, the term "basement" will mean a room located under a residential building. It is worth considering its structure and features of the structure.

Projects

The construction of a private house with a basement requires special procedures before starting work. These include the geological study of the bearing soil. Only after it can you start drafting a basement project and be sure that it will not violate any requirements of regulatory documents. If the project provides for a separate floor for a basement, commensurate with the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, it is necessary to equip arched and door openings in the foundation. The recommended height is approximately 2 meters. It will make it possible to use the basement to the fullest.

It is illogical to equip the entire basement below the soil level, the average height of the walls above the ground should be from 50 to 100 cm. It is important to remember that building a basement with a depth of more than 150 cm can lead to groundwater flooding. With the foundation equipped below the groundwater level, there will be a need for a drainage system. Sometimes, instead, you can artificially lower this level or build a basement above it. But these options come with significant financial costs.

And also when developing and designing a basement, attention should be paid to engineering and communication channels. So that during the construction it was not necessary to destroy the walls and ceiling, it is necessary to think in advance about the placement of pipes for supplying and draining water, power lines and similar communications. The foundation of the building is subject to lateral pressure, which can lead to the destruction of the walls. The strength of the basement can provide internal walls. To do this, it is necessary to equip the concrete base and combine it with the supporting elements of the building with a reinforcing mesh.

Wall thickness

There are special tables that indicate the thickness of the basement walls and the depth of the sole. Focusing on them, you can develop an optimal construction plan. The longer the walls, the more they are subject to lateral pressure.

Construction

The best option is considered to be a basement project, which is equipped in the first stages of building a room. In this case, a strip foundation is needed - this is concrete laid along each of the future walls of the building.

There are several ways to build a basement, namely:

• digging a pit;
• filling in the ground;
• building a basement in an already finished room.

It is worth dwelling in more detail on the first two methods.

Digging a pit

According to generally accepted standards, the pit should not exceed the dimensions of the basement along the perimeter by more than 50 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with crushed stone and sand, and a reinforced concrete slab is placed on this layer. Further, this plate will serve as the foundation of the room. It must be isolated from moisture and poured on top with a layer of concrete, which will later serve as the basis for the wall. The walls are made of concrete blocks, bricks or other materials.

The ceiling is often also a reinforced concrete slab, less often - a tree or beams. After the construction of the wall and the waterproofing work, the free space is covered with earth. The method of digging a pit has one significant drawback - the need to rent special equipment. Without it, it will be impossible to equip the basement.

Pouring in the ground

To begin with, at the place of installation of concrete walls, it is necessary to dig ditches to a depth of 150 cm to 200 cm and a width of 50 cm to 70 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid at the bottom of the ditch, after which it is poured with concrete mortar. The cured concrete forms a wall that needs waterproofing and drainage work. Next, you need to remove the earth to the floor level of the future basement. The pit is covered with gravel and sand, then reinforced and poured with concrete.

With the construction of a basement under an already finished one-story house, everything is much more complicated. In this case, it is recommended to make a basement under part of the building so that their walls are not connected. This method will be more profitable from an economic point of view. For the correct calculation of the basement wall, it is necessary to take into account such components as soil properties, the level of groundwater occurrence, the height of the future building, the materials used, the features of the underground communications, and others. If the level of groundwater is high, then you will have to do with a shallow basement. If the study of the soil showed that the soil is dry and there is no danger of the building getting wet, you can safely proceed to construction.

It is unlikely that it will be possible to make a basement under a finished building on your own, but everyone can dig a small basement. First of all, it is worth deciding on the room under the floor of which it is planned to place a basement. Often this is a kitchen or corridor for purely practical reasons. Before starting construction, it is necessary to completely dismantle the floors to the very ground. At this stage, it is important to think over the place where it will be most convenient to take out the soil.

If the soil has a loose consistency, then it is important to provide additional reinforcement of the walls of the pit with wood shields. They can then serve as an external formwork partition when concreting walls. It is also important to take into account the fact that the floor of the future basement should lie about 27–30 cm above the level of the base of the foundation. If the depth of the foundation is small, and the basement is planned to be deep, then the situation is complicated by the need to bring another foundation under the one that is already equipped. This is a very time-consuming process, the quality of which may depend on the stability of the whole house. In order to avoid serious miscalculations, it is better to turn to professionals to perform such tasks.

Device

There are details that are necessary for absolutely every basement - these are ventilation, stairs (entrance hatch), waterproofing, insulation and surface drainage. It is worth considering the features of each of these elements.

Ventilation

The arrangement of ventilation is mandatory for absolutely any basement, since most dangerous or poisonous gases are heavier than air, which means they settle down below. Often, non-volatile natural ventilation is made in basements. To organize a natural air exchange system, you need to equip two holes. The first is needed to exit the pipe, it is installed at a height of half a meter from the floor. The second is designed for exhaust, so it must be placed on the opposite wall under the ceiling. This arrangement will allow air to circulate throughout the room.

It is also important to remember about the protective grilles that are installed at the end of both pipes. They will protect the ventilation from the penetration of birds and rodents. Sliding dampers are mounted in the pipe section to regulate the air flow.

The advantages of natural air exchange are as follows:

• the system is very easy to equip yourself in a short time;
• does not require additional electric fans;
• low cost of materials;
• works silently.

The disadvantages include a decrease in the efficiency of the ventilation system at the same air temperature outside the building and inside. After all, the speed of air flow directly depends on these indicators. But in this case, you can simply install any heater in the basement. It will heat the air inside, create the necessary pressure and start the circulation process. Pipes are often used from galvanized sheet or plastic. The latter are very easy to install and are in demand with independent ventilation equipment.

The equipment of metal channels requires special professional knowledge and skills. but their reliability is well worth the effort. Sometimes ventilation boxes are made from wooden boards treated with sealant at the joints. This option is cheap, but very painstaking. To check the draft to the exhaust pipe, you need to bring a burning match. If the flame deviates into the pipe, then there is thrust. If not, most likely the ventilation system is not working and you need to check the location of the pipes and, possibly, replace them with pipes with a larger diameter.

Ladder

The equipment of the stairs should be given special attention, since it is this element that can cause household injuries. In addition, often the stairs need to fit into a very limited space.

Varieties of structures can be as follows:

• direct is the easiest and most convenient option;
• winder - winder trapezoidal steps are used to save space;
• the goose step is a completely safe design, the steps of which have a special shape and alternately adjust to the step of a person;
• the side ladder is not a very convenient ladder, but it is very easy to do it yourself.

The picture below shows all 4 types of designs.

The best option for the basement is a straight staircase. Screw structures are less safe and take up much more space.

Before proceeding with the construction of the stairs, it is necessary to make calculations based on some requirements.

• bias. The angle of inclination of the stairs can reach 60 degrees, but it is important to provide for the possibility of descent and ascent with busy hands. If the staircase is steep, then it is better to make a choice in favor of a direct project with the widest possible tread.
• Step size. A step of 20 cm is considered standard, but it may vary depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs.
• Width. To move one person, 75–80 cm is enough, and in order for two people to pass each other on the stairs, it will take 90–100 cm.
• Step height. If the task is to increase the slope and save space, the height can be made 23–25 cm. Risers are usually not made. When making calculations for steps, it is important to consider the width of your step.

The stairs leading to the basement are subject to special requirements in terms of strength, moisture resistance and ease of use.

Based on these indicators, it is worth considering the main materials for construction.

1. Metal. Perhaps the most durable of all possible materials. A metal staircase can have almost any configuration, and the welding connection will make it as reliable as possible. Corrosion can be avoided by using special types of metal or protective compounds. Corrugated steps will secure movement.
2. Tree. It is inferior to metal in strength, but is also very common for the manufacture of basement stairs. The advantages of the material include relative cheapness and ease of processing. The best option in this case would be oak species.
3. Concrete. Stairs to the basement made of concrete are more often used in apartment buildings. For such buildings, the material is ideal, given all their features. But concrete is quite difficult to work with, so in the ranking of materials for stairs, it can be assigned the third position.

Important: Only durable wood species can be used to build a wooden basement staircase. Cheap wood will not last long because of the dampness typical of a basement and the danger of being destroyed by rodents and insects.

Having chosen the type of construction, you can begin to draw up a project. The first thing to determine is the location of the optimal fulcrum. Most often, stairs are made of metal on their own, so it is worth considering the manufacturing process using its example.

The required details are such as:

• profile pipe;
• metal plates and anchor bolts;
• sheets for steps (corrugated or cellular).

Fasteners are mounted in the floor and wall at the top of the future stairs. To do this, you need metal plates and bolts. The size of the span determines the desired length of the bowstring - this is the distance from the floor to the first step. Having cut off a part of the profile pipe of the required size, you need to fix it on the supports. Next, you should calculate the distance between the steps and divide the length of the support by this indicator. To maximize the strength of the stairs, it would be useful to fix the steps to the wall on both sides. Then the frame for the steps is welded, and a metal sheet is mounted on it. Having studied the principles of building a staircase for a basement, you can show your imagination and create a design variation, taking into account the features of your basement.

Waterproofing

In order for the indoor air not to be constantly humid, high-quality waterproofing equipment is necessary. And the problem is not only in water vapor, but also in moisture, which comes from the ground through the smallest cracks in the walls. And also without waterproofing, an equipped layer of insulation will not bring the desired effect. For waterproofing, you can use a variety of materials, from mastic to roofing material. But today more effective ones have been created - these are special waterproofing mixtures based on cement. Such compositions are applied with a roller, spatula or hard brush. The composition penetrates into microcracks, forming a kind of crystals that prevent the penetration of moisture. The main advantage of penetrating waterproofing is that it prevents moisture from entering but allows moist air to escape.

Drainage

Surface drainage is necessary for houses located in areas with heavy rainfall during the warm season. Drainage can also simplify basement waterproofing equipment, increase its efficiency and reduce the amplitude of GWL fluctuations. A house with drainage has a much smaller impact on underground runoff than a house without it. The figure below shows a diagram of surface drainage equipment. The drop field is often placed above the garden since the rainfall collected in the drains is well suited for irrigation.

blind area device

The arrangement of the blind area around the perimeter of the house is the first step to protect the building from rain and melt water. If the turf around the house is left unchanged, then during precipitation, moisture will seep to the foundation. This will eventually resolve the walls. The materials for the blind area can be concrete slabs, cobblestones, asphalt or brick. This element not only protects the building from moisture penetration, but can also act as a decorative element on the site. The width of the blind area ranges from 50 cm to 100 cm and depends on the type of soil and the distance at which the cornice protrudes beyond the contour of the building.

To begin with, a layer of soil is removed around the foundation 10-15 cm deep. The resulting ditches are filled with soft clay, which is compacted with gravel or crushed stone. The slope of such a coating should be approximately 5-10% of the level of the house. This indicator is calculated as 5–10 cm per 100 cm of width. After that, gravel or brick chips are poured, poured with cement mortar or laid with asphalt. At the edges of the blind area, small grooves are dug for the outflow of water. Professionals advise at a depth of approximately 35–40 cm to lay a PVC film 200–250 cm wide. This stage is guaranteed to ensure that moisture is removed from the entire foundation.

pits

Light wells in the basement should be made in such a way that as much sunlight as possible gets inside. The presence of windows in the subfield of the house helps to significantly save on electricity, since it becomes possible to use the entire daylight hours. And if the basement involves the placement of people there, then daylight makes being inside much more comfortable. It turns out that the light pit is not only a structure for protecting the building, but also an element with many functions. And you can also approach work with creativity and make an original decor element for the facade of the house.

The dimensions of the pits directly depend on the size of the windows and the level to which they are buried in the ground. Often the length of the pit, namely the pit element, which is parallel to the wall, is 1.5–2 times the width of the window. And its other side, which is perpendicular to the wall, protrudes no more than 1 meter. The ideal option is 70–80 cm. The depth of the pit depends on the position of the window frame: the bottom is placed about 20–25 cm below the window. It is also recommended to provide for a slope of the pit bottom by about 4–5 degrees.

Today, construction companies provide a large selection of ready-made parts for pit equipment. Having bought such a part, it remains only to dig a foundation pit for its dimensions. Ready pits are made of different materials: galvanized steel, propylene, polyester or plastic. The most durable and popular is the option of polyester with the addition of fiberglass. This design can withstand huge loads without deforming at all.

Metal bases for pits are not exposed to moisture due to the galvanized coating. Moreover, most bases are equipped with anti-vandal devices. This option will be ideal for owners of private plots, whose owners do not permanently reside in the house. Iron bars on the pits can protect both the windows from damage and the building itself from thieves.

The elements included in the standard set of factory pits are as follows:

• frame;
• lattice for a window;
• fasteners.

To design and manufacture pits on your own, you need to face some subtleties in technology and have skills in this area. But it is much easier to mount ready-made parts. Everyone loves to get the job done without resorting to professional builders. The first thing to do is to carefully study the installation instructions. It indicates the dimensions of the part, based on which it is necessary to dig a pit of the required size. Do not forget about the water outflow system, which was described earlier.

Further, the body of the well is placed in the dug pit, then you need to connect the drainage, drain, protective elements to the pipe, and so on. The last step will be the installation of a grate or other fence on the pit. All parts are fastened with special dowels, which are included in the product kit. The factory pit does not need additional insulation, which will significantly save time and effort. The main disadvantage is the high price. Therefore, without having extra funds, you can try to build a pit yourself.

Warming

A very important stage in the construction of the basement is the correct insulation. Often, work on thermal insulation and waterproofing are carried out in parallel. Soils at a depth of 150-200 cm have a constant temperature, which practically does not fluctuate throughout all seasons and is approximately 7-10 degrees. With high-quality insulation of the basement, it is possible to organize the maintenance of this temperature throughout the year. If there is a need to increase this indicator, for example, for residential basements, heating equipment will be needed.

In addition to maintaining a stable temperature regime, basement insulation will significantly save on heating the entire building. Plus, the supporting structure will retain its durability due to gentle operation. Today, there are a lot of ways to carry out work on the thermal insulation of basements. The most effective is the insulation from the outside, which is only at the stage of the beginning of the construction of the entire room. It is impossible to insulate basement walls in an already finished building with this method.

With external insulation, the walls are not afraid of dampness and freezing. The main disadvantage of this method is ground pressure and moisture, which can lead to deformation, wetting or destruction of the thermal insulation layer. A material that solves almost all common thermal insulation problems is extruded foam. It consists of pores that do not allow moisture to pass through. And also the material can withstand quite strong ground pressure without being deformed.

The insulation technology must be carried out clearly according to all the rules. After 6 days after the wall waterproofing equipment, insulation boards can be installed. And they are mounted directly on top of the waterproofing. Bituminous mastic or any other bitumen-based composition is used as glue. It is important that this composition does not contain solvents that can destroy the insulation material.

Styrofoam plates must be dotted with adhesive mastic and pressed against the wall. After 25–30 seconds, the composition will set and you can proceed with the installation of the next plate. Installation of foam is made strictly from the bottom up. All slabs must be of the same thickness and fit snugly together. To protect the insulation during soil compaction, professionals recommend using asbestos-cement boards. After the foundation is backfilled, you can proceed to the equipment of horizontal thermal insulation along the perimeter of the building, while the insulation should protrude above the ground by about 45–50 centimeters.

Walls from the inside

This method is not very popular because, without a good ventilation system, moisture will condense at the joints, which can lead to dampness, bad smell and mold. These shortcomings do not make themselves felt immediately, but some time after the completion of construction. It is necessary to carry out the insulation of the foundation wall so that the insulating layers inside and outside overlap by about 50 centimeters. So, the heat flow will go a longer way and the heat loss will be minimal. The insulation is placed on a flat surface of the walls, then veneered. If the next stage of finishing is a layer of plaster, then extruded polystyrene foam would be the best option as a heater. If the walls are sheathed with drywall, then the insulation can be protected with a vapor barrier film.

plinth

The floor of the lower floor of the building often rests on the basement floor. It is equipped with horizontal waterproofing. This system is able to prevent the rise of moisture, which leads to moistening of the walls and ceiling of the basement. For the construction of the base I use the most durable materials such as burnt bricks or concrete blocks. Lined with ceramic or stone tiles, plaster mortar. As a heater, expanded polystyrene is best suited, which is known for its thermal insulation characteristics and resistance to moisture.

When choosing an adhesive or mastic for fixing polystyrene boards, it is important to choose a product without acetone and other components that dissolve polystyrene. Hot bituminous mastic is also not suitable for such work. In order to protect the installed thermal insulation boards from the effects of sunlight, it is necessary to cover them with a layer of plaster over the grid. Both metal meshes and fiberglass will do. It is important that wet soil does not come into contact with the outer plaster layer. To do this, remove the soil that is adjacent to the base. The plaster, which is below ground level, must be treated with bituminous mastic, and the resulting space should be covered with gravel.

How to dry?

If the basement is damp, it must be properly dried before starting the repair. To begin with, the walls, ceiling and floor are wetted with water using a soft plaster brush (you can also use a roller, but it will give a worse effect). Dehumidification with a simple stream of warm air will not bring results. This requires the use of infrared radiation. Moreover, it should be "near" - the light source should be in close proximity to the surface.

Radiation is practically not absorbed by air and penetrates deep into brick or concrete. Light bulbs should be hung in the form of a garland throughout the room at the rate of 70–100 W per 1 cubic meter. After a week of such drying, bitumen can already be applied. But it never hurts to wait a few days. The only question is how much electricity is not a pity to spend on this venture. If there is no time and desire to equip the drying with your own hands, then you can purchase a special dehumidifier. It is worth choosing it based on the dimensions of the basement and financial capabilities.

There are several types of air dryers.

1. Assimilation. The device is based on forced ventilation. This means that moisture is drawn out of the room and converted into dry air at the outlet. Such dehumidifiers are often used in large-scale buildings. Its main disadvantage (apart from constant power consumption) is the inability to dry the air if it is raining or snowing outside (or just a very humid climate).
2. Condensing. The mechanism of its operation can be compared to a refrigerator: humid air is cooled in pipes with inert gases, condensate fills the pan in the form of water, and the air goes back into the room. The disadvantage is that it is necessary to constantly drain the liquid, otherwise the operation of the device will be stopped.
3. Adsorbing. This option is used for dehumidification at temperatures below +10 degrees. Air passes through adsorbents that neutralize moisture. Then they need to be changed or dried. The frequency of changing adsorbents is the main disadvantage of this mechanism.

The type of air dryer mechanism directly determines the quality of its functioning.

When buying a device, you need to pay attention to its technical characteristics.

• Moisture removal The performance of the model is directly affected by moisture removal. It reflects the amount of moisture that the device can take from the air. To make the right choice, you need to know the indicators of air humidity specifically in your basement. The standard instructions describe the parameters that are observed at 80 percent humidity and an air temperature of +30 degrees. In reality, most rooms have a temperature of no more than + 20-22 degrees with humidity in the region of 50-60%. Given this, you can immediately mentally reduce the efficiency of devices by an average of 20-25%.
• Temperature regime. It is worth considering the presence of heating in the basement in winter. Condensation dehumidifiers work most effectively when the temperature exceeds +15 degrees. As the temperature rises, the moisture content increases. If the thermometer shows less than +15 degrees, then the adsorption dryer will be more efficient.

• Air exchange- This is one of the most important parameters that you should pay attention to when choosing a device. This indicator tells how much air the mechanism can process in 1 hour. The best indicator would be a number that is several times the volume of the basement.
• Energy costs- This value may vary depending on the manufacturer and model. The exact indicators should be checked with the seller directly at the time of purchase.
• Condensate tank capacity. A capacious tank is necessary if it is not possible to go down to the basement several times a day and pour out the liquid. Some solve this problem with drainage directed into the sewer.

You can make your own air dryer. To do this, before starting work, you need to decide on a method for extracting moisture from the air.

DIY adsorbent dryer

This is the most budgetary way to drain the basement. To create it, you will need a cooler - this is a kind of fan that can be removed from an unnecessary computer unit, and two plastic containers, ordinary bottles will do.

• bottles must be cut into two parts and make a hole in the bottom. To do this, you can use a heated awl or knitting needle;
• the top of the bottle is turned upside down and placed in the second half;
• the cork also needs to be pierced in several places;
• about 250 grams of silicone filler is poured into the resulting container;

• from another bottle, you need to cut off the bottom, put the cooler inside, it should blow towards the cut hole;
• a pressure unit is made 7–10 centimeters from the bottom of the bottle;
• then the whole structure is put on the first bottle;
• all joints must be sealed with ordinary adhesive tape, and the lid of the second bottle must be removed or replaced with gauze, which will facilitate the free flow of air.

We get a simple design: the desiccant picks up air masses with the help of a fan, then the air gets out through the gauze. When the gel loses its ability to absorb, it can be replaced or dried in the oven for about three hours. Air dehumidification organized in this way does not produce noise and has a fairly noticeable effect.

DIY Condensing Dryer

You can make such a device yourself, but it will take many times more work. For manufacturing, you will need an unnecessary refrigerator, heater, coolers, rubber hose, self-tapping screws and sealant.

The manufacturing process includes the following steps:

• it is necessary to remove the door from the refrigerator body, and put a piece of plexiglass 3 mm thick in its place;
• fans are inserted into this glass with indents along the edges of 35–40 cm. After that, they are treated with sealant and fixed with self-tapping screws. This part of the system will serve to ensure that air enters the refrigerator body;
• in the upper part of the plate, several holes must be made through which the cooled air will come out. The dimensions of all openings must correspond to the dimensions of the fan;

• using a hose attached to the bottom hole, you can remove the settled moisture;
• the connection of the panel with the hose must be carefully sealed;
• there is an option and air outlet through the second fan, which is installed above the first one. This will reduce the temperature by about 5 degrees.

Such a homemade model can be improved by adding a fan. It should be attached to the plexiglass or on top of the device. Important: to properly organize the intersection of air flows - entering the inside of the dehumidifier and going outside. Dehumidification often starts when the humidity reaches 80 percent. Of course, from an aesthetic point of view, such a homemade dehumidifier is not very pleasing to the eye, but it can be hidden behind a small screen or door. And effective work and significant financial savings are undeniable advantages.

Heating

The process of heating the basement is very laborious, but it is able to adapt the room for living. Having some knowledge and skills in such matters, you can safely get to work.

When starting heating equipment, it is worth considering such issues as:

• basement heating method;
• calculation of materials;
• installation method.

Heating methods are the first point that you should decide on. There are only two options - stove and water heating. The first requires only a stove, the second requires a boiler and batteries.

• Stove heating. An equipped stove or potbelly stove in the basement is a more economical option due to ease of installation and operation. And it takes up less space than a bulk boiler. The main issue will be the implementation of the chimney. This can be problematic, as it is necessary to correctly calculate the length of the pipe in order to ensure good traction. The diagram of a standard furnace is shown in the figure.
• Water heating. This heating option is quite simple to make on your own, so it is chosen most often. Schematically, the arrangement of water heating is shown in the figure.

This method is implemented using a gas or electric boiler. But there is a caveat: heating occurs by rising steam, which means that the temperature at the top of the basement will be higher than at the bottom. The temperature will not be able to be evenly distributed throughout the room. Despite the low level of efficiency, there is a significant advantage - the presence of hot water. Both of these options are suitable for heating, because the system can heat both the entire house and the basement separately.

Having decided on boiler heating, it is important to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe basement that needs to be heated. The best option in this case would be to organize the heating of the whole house at once. If you decide to install a stove, then it is important to decide on its type - it will be a potbelly stove, a brick stove or a long-burning stove. If you need a potbelly stove for a room of 50–60 square meters, then most likely it will be difficult to make such a unit on your own and you will need a factory model. Power for long-burning stoves can be calculated in the same way as for a potbelly stove. But the former are well suited for rooms up to 200 square meters. A simple brick oven will be optimal if its chimney and firebox are properly organized.

Nuances

If the stove is located at the bottom of the room - in the basement - the heat will be distributed in an optimal way: from the bottom up, thereby spreading evenly throughout the building. But there are also features of such placement that must be taken into account. For example, closing the pipe at the right time will help save fuel, namely at the moment when the fuel has burned out and flames no longer appear on the coals. Otherwise, the heat from the coals will go into the chimney and the stove will not be able to fully heat the air. If the chimney damper is closed too early, smoke can be allowed to enter the room. If it's too late, the heat will be lost. Therefore, it takes time to get used to using the firebox with ideal efficiency.

Warm floor

Underfloor heating is a very important detail for stove heating, when there is a constant draft on the floor. It arises due to the peculiarities of the functioning of ventilation and the chimney.

To equip a warm floor in the basement, you need to qualitatively perform the following three layers:

• waterproofing - thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool;
• thermal insulation - the best option would be to equip the screed according to the "clay castle" principle, which will provide the necessary protection for the basement floor;
• coupler.

Schematically, all stages are shown in the figures below.

To understand the intricacies of designing and creating a basement, you should follow the advice of experts.

• The method of pouring concrete mixture into ditches using waterproofing is difficult to work with. Not every amateur will be able to lay the reinforcement on their own. In order not to have to redo the work, it is better to trust professionals at the initial stage. The point is that each stage of construction should be done fairly quickly.
• Basement ventilation can be carried out not only by the ventilation system, but also by small windows in the basement walls. In the summer, they will cope with this task much faster.
• Before you build a basement in an already finished building, you need to clearly understand what this can lead to. The first is significant financial costs, because of ignorance, you can start construction, and then stop due to lack of funds, leaving the construction site unfinished. The second is the danger of damage to the foundation of a residential building, especially if the construction process is not controlled by professionals.
• So that the heat does not leave the basement for longer, the heat-insulating layer should be made at least 50 mm thick.

• The walls of the basement should be approximately 30-40 cm thick. The value may vary and depends on the characteristics of the soil and the number of floors of the building.
• Often the depth of the basement does not exceed two meters. This is enough to fulfill all household needs. Experts do not recommend placing a basement below the level of groundwater. This can lead to dampness, mold and fungus on the walls in the future.
• Choosing the material for the basement floor, you need to decide on its functional purpose. Cement and clay concrete are considered optimal. To avoid the accumulation of condensate, it is necessary to make floors with a slope of several centimeters, and organize a pit in a low corner.

• Dryness in the basement can be ensured at the stage of digging a foundation pit. To do this, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 20 cm between the walls of the basement and the foundation pit, fill this space with liquid clay. Clay has excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing properties, which will allow you to keep the same temperature in the basement and prevent a noticeable increase in air humidity.
• Using roofing material as a waterproofing material, it is necessary to treat with bitumen not only all joints, but also the entire area between the layers of material.
• It is better to prepare cement mortar from a grade not lower than M500. To increase strength and fast solidification, it is also recommended to add a relaxor to the solution.

• It is important to include in the work plan the arrangement of the ventilation system during masonry and pouring, which will allow you not to waste time making holes in the right places later.
• If it is decided to put a gas boiler in the basement, then its height should be at least 2200 mm. Otherwise, the use of the boiler for its intended purpose will simply be impossible.
• To avoid the penetration of rodents into the basement through the pipes, special protective stainless steel nets must be installed on them.

• For wall decoration in basements, plywood or wooden lining is often used. It is important to treat all building materials with a good antiseptic or paint with an antiseptic component before starting work. This will help prevent the formation of fungus and mold.
• After the laying of the basement wall is completed, the foundation itself must be plastered with cement mortar with the addition of sand in a ratio of 1: 2 or 1: 3. The outer surface must be properly smeared with hot bitumen. On the walls of the basement, then you can stick several layers of roofing material on bituminous mastic to increase strength.
• It is important to ensure that during the installation of waterproofing materials there are no damages or tears (even small ones). This will negatively affect the entire waterproofing layer and its functioning.

• If vegetables are stored in the basement, it is convenient to control the temperature with an instrument such as a psychrometer. It simultaneously measures air temperature and determines humidity. This is very important for the safety of products. The simplest psychrometer is several alcohol thermometers attached to one base. The lower part of one of them is immersed in a humid environment, the second thermometer remains dry.
• If the floor is equipped after the walls, an air cushion should be poured with concrete mortar. The organization of the formwork in this case is not required.

In order for the cellar to always remain dry and the temperature in it to be stable, its construction should be carried out in compliance with certain rules and requirements. The work ahead is quite voluminous, but in the future it will pay off with interest.

The cellar can be located both away from other buildings, and located under the house, garage, bathhouse or barn. The storage located under the building allows you to save space on the site, and it will be much more convenient to use it in winter.

If it is decided to build it in an open area, then you should choose a higher place - there will be constant dampness in the storage located in the lowland. It is desirable that a separate cellar is located in the shade. In this case, in the summer it will warm up less.

In order to avoid the collapse of buildings, in no case should a separate cellar be located closer than half a meter from their walls.

Types of cellars

The decisive factor in choosing the type of cellar is ground water level . If the aquifer runs too close, spring floods will flood your food stocks every year. Moreover, no drainage system will save - the more you pump out water, the faster the ducts will erode, and every year there will be more and more of it in the cellar.

So that during floods it is not flooded, it should be located 0.5 m above this level. To determine how close groundwater is to the surface, you can use:

• garden drill: 2.5 m long or more;

• spoon drill: they drill wells under water, but you can also use it for such a measurement.

After drilling, the well should stand still for at least a day. Next, the water level is measured using a long rod lowered into the well. Depending on the result obtained, they decide which type of cellar can be built on the site:

• underground: a standard cellar located in a dry area, most often deepens by 2.5-3 m;
• semi-submerged; less demanding on the soil, its average depth is 1 m;
• bulk: built on swampy soils, where the level of groundwater is very high;
• a cellar on a slope, a kind of bulk, is used quite rarely.

To protect against frost heaving of the soil and keep warm in storage cellar depth must necessarily be 0.5 m below the level of its freezing.

Cellar construction in stages

The cellar should be built only in summer - at this time, groundwater sinks to the greatest depth. So that the open cellar is not flooded with water, work is carried out only in dry weather. If it still rains, the pit is temporarily covered with polyethylene.

Pit preparation

Floor construction

It is undesirable to fill the floors in the cellar with concrete. The soil located below the freezing depth will be the main (and in the case of a cellar taken outside the buildings) and the only source of heat in winter and cold in summer.

clay castle

Our ancestors have long used compacted greasy clay for waterproofing foundations and basements. Of course, it will not save from the rise of groundwater, but clay can completely protect against capillary moisture, which constantly penetrates through the thickness of the soil. Such protection is called clay castle .

To create it, clay is laid in layers:

• on the bottom, the height of the castle is 0.4 m;

• wall thickness 0.25-0.3 m.

In order for the clay to become plastic, it is pre-soaked and left for a while to soak. The ideal option would be to harvest it in the fall. During the winter in the open air, it will pick up enough moisture, and it will be easy to work with it.

It should not crumble, but it should not flow out of the fingers either. Lay the clay with the help of adjustable formwork in small layers. You can start working with a new layer if it has dried to the consistency of plasticine.

The quality of clay will be much higher if 20% lime is added to it.

wall decoration

The walls can be made of brick, concrete, buta or asbestos cement sheets. The thickness of the concrete wall should be 5 cm, buta - 25 cm. To protect against capillary moisture, they are smeared with bituminous mastic, hot bitumen or pasted over with rolled materials (roofing felt, roofing material, etc.) before finishing.

A vertical formwork is prepared for pouring concrete. To create a waterproof film, the wall can additionally be plastered with a cement-sand mortar - ironed. The ratio of sand and cement in this case is 1:1. To prevent cracking, lime is added to the solution (about 1/10 of the cement).

Be sure to insulate the hatch or door leading to the cellar. They should fit as tightly as possible and not have gaps. They are made two-layer and edged with a bar or a metal corner filled with any heat-insulating material (for example, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene).

Ventilation

Since most vegetables should be stored in dry, ventilated areas, the cellar must be equipped with natural ventilation. To do this, perform the following work:

• exhaust and supply pipes are installed in the cellar:

Pros and cons of freestanding cellars

Separate buildings have significant disadvantages:

1. Such storage facilities should be equipped with a ground part - an entrance and a roof, which significantly increases the cost of their construction.
2. Inconvenience of use in winter: the passage to them will need to be cleared of snow. Plus, in severe frosts, in order not to catch a cold, it is often undesirable to open them.

But there are also positive aspects of having a cellar located outside the house. The temperature in the underground under the heated building is always much higher than in the cellar. Therefore, vegetables and fruits are stored in it only until the end of winter - by spring, potatoes, carrots and other vegetables begin to sprout, and fruits begin to flake. In a separate cellar, they are perfectly stored until the end of summer. Plus, if there is an underground in the house, rodents start up faster in it. If stocks are stored in a free-standing storage, the likelihood of them coming into the house is reduced.

If the land plot is small, and there is no place on it to build a free-standing cellar, you can use the advice of the author of this video and make a mini-cellar with your own hands:

Traditionally, it takes a lot of effort to insulate the cellar. So that in the winter cold the temperature in it does not fall below zero, the ceiling has to be carefully insulated; often a cellar is erected on top - an analogue of an attic in a house, a kind of buffer for heat.

Wait a minute! But after all, we already have an insulated ceiling, above which a positive temperature is maintained throughout the winter. It was decided: we are building a cellar under the house.

How to dig a pit in a space limited by four walls?

The problem has two solutions, and one of them will definitely not please the reader.

1. The cellar is torn off and concreted before the walls of the house are erected. With the help of heavy equipment, the work is completed within a couple of working days.
2. When it comes to building a cellar in a rebuilt and inhabited house, the only solution is to arm yourself with a pick, shovel and bucket. In one of the rooms, the floor is opened - and after many, many hours of hard and dirty work, a small pit is ready.

Please note: the pit should not weaken the soil under the strip foundation. Undermining at a distance of less than one meter from the walls of the house is likely to lead to subsidence and deformation of the structure. But earthworks near it do not threaten any type of pile foundation: the bulk of the house is transferred by piles to the underlying layers of soil.

Floor

The traditional solution for the cellar is a concrete floor.

It, of course, does not provide complete and absolute waterproofing; however, there are quite enough advantages against the background of an earthen floor:

• Methane and other gases released during the life of anaerobic bacteria in the soil do not enter the underground.
• Worms and insects also do not have access there, which in a very pleasant way affects the safety of the crop.
• Rats and mice cannot burrow through a concrete base.
• In high water and after heavy rains, the surface under your feet does not turn into a dirty mess.

How is this floor poured?

1. The surface of the bottom of the pit is leveled as much as possible.
2. A sand bed is formed with a thickness of 10-15 centimeters. The sand is compacted as much as possible with a rammer or, more simply, by watering with plenty of water.
3. A waterproofing material is spread over the backfill on the floor with access to the walls of the pit (dense polyethylene is most often used). The instruction is connected not only with the need, if possible, to isolate the room from groundwater: the film will not allow cement milk to go into the backfill when pouring the floor. Thanks to this, concrete will retain maximum strength.
4. A reinforcing mesh with a mesh of 10-15 cm is laid out on the waterproofing. The thickness of the wire is 5-6 millimeters. Reinforcement is laid out on factory or improvised wire supports: the mesh should be approximately in the middle of the screed layer.

1. Finally, the floor is poured with concrete. You can walk on the surface after about 5-7 days; concrete gains full strength in a month.

Walls

Cellar walls are often built of brick or ceramic blocks; however, building a cellar under the house imposes some restrictions on our project. External masonry waterproofing and backfilling in our case will be quite problematic.

What remains?

The obvious solution is the construction of walls from monolithic reinforced concrete.

1. We mount the reinforcement grid. Corrugated reinforcement with a cross section of 12-14 millimeters is usually used; however, nothing prevents you from putting a finished reinforcing mesh in one or two layers or using any pipe trimmings, corners, etc.

Tip: annealed wire is used to assemble the reinforcing mesh. It is better not to use welded joints: during temperature changes, they are more likely to cause the monolith to crack.

1. We form a vertical formwork. Any improvised materials can be used for it - boards (including unedged and even slabs), plywood, OSB. With a lack of material for the formwork, it can be rearranged higher as the wall sections are poured.
2. We fill the space between the formwork and the closed waterproofing with the wall of the pit with concrete grade M200 and higher or self-made cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3 (for cement M400). The addition of 3 parts of crushed stone is acceptable. The formwork is poured in layers of 20-25 centimeters with the obligatory bayonet of each layer.

The walls are brought to the level of the lower surface of the load-bearing floor beams.

overlap

Despite the fact that there is a warm room above the cellar, the ceiling must still be reliably insulated.

Causes?

• Inside the cellar, there should always be a temperature of +1 - +12 degrees. Excessive heating due to heat exchange with living quarters is useless: after all, the cellar is built in the ground precisely so that it is cold in it.
• Heat loss during the heating season for a residential building also seems to be useless.

So, how to insulate a wooden floor?

1. From below, a board shield is hemmed to the beams. The boards are fastened with self-tapping screws or nails driven in at an angle of 45 degrees apart, in different directions, two nails into each board at the intersection with each beam.
2. A vapor barrier film is laid out over the hemmed shield, designed to prevent the moisture of the insulation.
3. Then the space between the beams is filled with the actual insulation. For our purposes, glass wool is perfect, the price of which is much lower than that of most competing solutions.
4. A waterproofing material is laid on the insulation. Roll waterproofing is laid out with an overlap of strips; seams are taped.
5. A bearing coating and a finishing floor are placed on top.

Dampness control

Vcherne cellar is ready. However, during operation, we will inevitably encounter dampness in it.

Where does excess moisture come from?

• High groundwater and rainwater will inevitably seep into. Any waterproofing is not absolute.

Dampness is the eternal problem of basements and cellars.

• During storage, vegetables evaporate quite a lot of moisture, which condenses on cold surfaces - walls and floors.
• Finally, temperature fluctuations in the cellar also cause excess moisture from warmer air to condense on cooler surfaces.

How to solve these problems?

Ventilation

It helps fight excess moisture in the air. What does the hood look like in the cellar under the house?

It consists of two pipes - supply and exhaust. They can be used as special ventilation pipes with a foam layer, which can effectively prevent the transmission of sounds; however, a much more popular option is a conventional PVC sewer pipe.

What should be the diameter?

• For a room up to 10 cubic meters, a pair of 50 mm pipes is enough.
• With a volume of up to 25 m3, pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are used.
• With a volume of up to 75 m3, ventilation with a cross section of 150 millimeters is mounted.

Captain Evidence recalls: cross-sectional area and, respectively. The effective capacity of a pipe is proportional to the square of its diameter. About 9 times more air will pass through a channel with a cross section of 150 mm than through a channel with a cross section of 50 mm.

The main purpose of the cellar is the storage of conservation, vegetables and fruits. But not every cellar can guarantee the shelf life of products. Therefore, the construction of your subfloor should be given special attention. The main thing is to decide for what purposes it is necessary.

In a cellar with a temperature of -7 degrees, various products can be stored for about one year. Therefore, many housewives appreciate and use such premises for long-term storage of vegetables and fruits. After all, its main advantage over the refrigerator is spaciousness.

Such construction is a serious step, therefore, in the work it is necessary to rely on the schemes and drawings of the cellars. To understand which option is most suitable, you can see the photo of the cellar. There are many options on the Internet. The picture will show the finished layout of the building, it remains only to match.

What is important in construction?

When building a cellar with your own hands, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• the use of wood materials requires pre-treatment with special means. This procedure protects the room from moisture;
• summer is the ideal time to install a cellar, as groundwater is at a low level;
• it is desirable to immediately equip the ventilation system;
• it is best to build two doors inside the vault. This will keep the correct temperature;
• for optimal temperature, it is recommended to provide thermal insulation;
• think about all the equipment in advance, so as not to delay construction work due to their absence.

Instructions on how to make a cellar

Place

It is necessary to choose a place for the future cellar. Dry elevated places are best suited, in the future you will not have to install waterproofing. In this case, there is no risk of moisture ingress. The choice of depth depends on the desire of the owner, by about 2-3 meters.

A certain distance between the base of the cellar and groundwater (50 cm) must be ensured, otherwise flooding may occur.

Material

The construction of the cellar should be taken responsibly, taking into account all the nuances, otherwise troubles are inevitable. Another main point is the choice of material for construction.

Natural stone, wood, red brick and others are suitable for such purposes. Timber cladding is required when building an earthen cellar. Metal structures are best avoided, as they are picky about climatic conditions.

Ventilation

Such an element is necessary in order to deal with moisture and gas accumulation. Most often, a pipe is used that connects the inside and surface of the cellar. But you can install two pipes that will perform the function of an exhaust.

Advantages

A do-it-yourself cellar under the house has many advantages:

• site savings;
• ease of use. Especially in winter, you can quickly go down and also quickly go up;
• waterproofing and underground drainage help to forget about dampness;

Characteristics of the ground cellar

When building a ground cellar, it is important to take into account the level of the soil. Such a room is built on the surface of the earth, in contrast to underground structures. The ground cellar takes up less space, is not flooded, functions all year round, has an impressive size and is very convenient to use.

However, such an extension requires hydraulic engineering work. The storage needs maintenance: periodic cleaning, disinfection.

There are three types of ground cellar: ground, semi-buried, buried. Such premises can be built with your own hands, using bricks, logs or concrete.

Features of the construction of a wine cellar

Wine drinks need special storage, because this affects their taste characteristics. Building a wine cellar is very popular.

In such a room, it is important to provide a thermal insulation system. Closed-porous materials are ideal for building a wine cellar. They are responsible for maintaining the temperature.

The front door must be well sealed. Abundant air penetration will negatively affect the quality of the wine. Any materials are suitable for the floor, as long as harmful chemical elements do not come from them.

Bottles with a drink are stored in a horizontal position and it is not recommended to move them. All necessary equipment should be of good quality using natural materials.

Construction must be carried out in compliance with all necessary instructions to avoid additional work and damage to the product.

DIY cellar photo

Cellar - a mandatory extension in the country or near a private house. In this room, the optimum temperature is maintained all year round for the preservation of vegetables, fruits, preservation and preparations. It is quite possible to build a cellar on your own. To do this, it is necessary to assess the condition of the soil, determine the optimal type of structure, select materials and adhere to the chosen technology.

Requirements for the arrangement of the cellar

The best place for harvested conservation and grown crops is the cellar. In this room, natural conditions and a temperature regime of about + 4 ° C are maintained. A favorable microclimate is necessary to preserve the presentation and taste characteristics of fruits and vegetables.

Some people confuse the concepts of cellar and basement. However, they are completely different structures. The basement is located in the basement of the building. The cellar is arranged separately - separately on the plot. The design becomes invisible, or vice versa, acts as a striking element of landscape design.

The practical use of a vegetable store is possible under certain conditions:

• the presence of low temperature - the cellar is built underground or settled in a basement in contact with the outer wall of the house;
• blackout - windows are excluded in the cellar design;
• constant filling with clean and fresh air due to natural and supply and exhaust ventilation;
• air humidity - about 80-90%.

Choosing the optimal design and materials

Depending on the depth of occurrence, the following types of cellars are distinguished.

Ground facility rises above the surface, the depth of the structure is no more than one meter. In fact, this is a small bin for vegetables. The storehouse can be erected anywhere, even in small lowlands.

The construction of a "garden" storage shed is the best solution for waterlogged areas and low-lying areas. A distinctive feature of the ground cellar is the absence of overlap. As a rule, a gable roof is made of boards. Due to this, the terms and the final cost of building a vegetable store are reduced. An additional plus is the ease of building such a cellar with your own hands.

A more spacious ground cellar - outwardly, the building resembles a small house. Earth is poured on top of the floor, covering the floor with a thick layer. The front side with the door remains unprotected. Lawn grass is planted on top of the backfill, decorating the territory and keeping the soil from sprinkling with roots.

Semi-buried cellar- the most demanded type of construction. The design looks like a ground structure, but part of the room (about 1.5 m) is underground. The entrance door to the bins is located below the ground surface, so it is necessary to provide a system for the removal of melt / rainwater. The door structure is thoroughly insulated.

buried cellar well suited for compact areas. However, its construction is possible only with low groundwater or with the arrangement of thorough drainage and waterproofing. The entrance can be covered with a heat-insulating removable cover or made out in a special cellar - a small house with a hatch in the ceiling. The cellar can be used as a utility room for placing gardening tools, various household items or vegetables.

The walls of the cellar are built from different materials: stone, brick, concrete or asbestos-cement sheets. It is not advisable to build a building from metal, since it is difficult to achieve a suitable temperature regime.

When using earth as the main material for walls, the bin is sheathed with wood from the inside. Wooden slats must be dried well, sanded, treated with an antiseptic and dried again.

We make a cellar with our own hands: a video on the selection of materials

How to make a cellar with your own hands: recessed design

Assessment of terrain and soil conditions

The best location of the cellar is a hill, hillock or hill. Groundwater in such cases passes far from the surface of the earth. When placed on a hill, the ingress of rainwater is reduced. In addition, it will turn out to save on waterproofing materials.

Many people prefer to build a cellar next to a residential building in order to quickly reach and take the necessary products in the cold season, in the rain, etc.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to find out the type of soil and the possibility of constructing a buried / semi-buried vegetable store. To do this, you need to conduct a small test:

1. Put a piece of natural wool at the place where the bin was erected, and a raw egg on top.
2. Cover the "design" with a jar and leave for one night.
3. Evaluate the result of the experiment:
   • if the wool has dew drops, then groundwater is located nearby;
   • if the egg and wool are dry, then the occurrence of water is deep and you can safely get to work.

Before you build a cellar with your own hands, it is advisable to evaluate the type of soil:

1. Peat is the optimal type for embankment. This soil minimizes food spoilage, which is especially important when storing root crops.
2. Quicksand is a heaving soil that is not suitable for the construction of an "internal" cellar. Such soil contains loam, sand and sandy loam. To be able to build a vegetable store, you will have to replace the soil and add sand.
3. Sandy soil is well suited for arranging the foundation. This natural material is often added to reduce frizziness and reduce moisture content.

Materials and tools

To equip the cellar in the country with your own hands you will need:

• crushed stone and gravel;
• lath sand;
• clay mortar;
• rolls of roofing material;
• brick;
• cement;
• boards for arranging the floor frame;
• concrete grade 100;
• molten bitumen;
• reinforcement grid.

From the tools you should prepare:

• concrete mixer;
• manual rammer;
• shovels;
• screws, screwdriver, nails, hammers;
• welding machine;
• grinder;
• primer;
• brush;
• hacksaw.

Pit preparation

The construction of a buried storage begins with digging a foundation pit. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Clear the site of stones, sticks and vegetation.
2. Mark out and dig a hole. The traditional dimensions of the cellar are: length / width - 2.5 m, depth - 2.3 m. For digging a pit, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
3. Level the walls of the pit with a shovel, scraping off excess earth and giving them a flat surface.
4. The depth of the pit depends on the type of equipped cellar. When determining this value, it must be taken into account that the space will be partially occupied by a hatch or entrance, shelving, stairs. In view of this, the pit must be dug with a certain margin.
5. Tamp the bottom of the pit, pour sand and gravel into the pit. The thickness of the sand cushion - 20 cm, gravel - 10 cm.

Arrangement of the base of the floor

Floor screed is best done with clay mortar. To prepare it, you need to combine clay and quartz sand in a ratio of 90% / 10%. Dilute with water, bringing to a state of thick sour cream. Pour the gravel with the prepared solution to a thickness of 3-4 cm.

To improve the strength characteristics of the base and provide better insulation against groundwater penetration, it is recommended to additionally strengthen the bin with concrete. Procedure:

1. Prepare a mass of lath sand and concrete in a ratio of 5:1, respectively.
2. After drying, pour the clay base with a concrete solution 5 cm thick.
3. Level the surface and leave to dry completely.

Construction and waterproofing of walls

The technology for erecting brick walls is as follows:

1. To equip the foundation for masonry with a width of 1 brick, a height of about 15 cm.
2. Leave the foundation to dry.
3. Masonry is carried out from the corner of the wall where the doorway is provided.
4. Bricks are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
5. When laying a brick, it is necessary to tap on it with a trowel handle - this will help get rid of excess mortar and improve the adhesion of materials.
6. After the construction of each row, its evenness must be checked with a building level.
7. The working solution is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 4:1, respectively.
8. In parallel with the laying, the cracks and the space between the brick and the earthen wall are filled with clay mortar. This technology provides additional waterproofing of the vegetable store.
9. After the erection of all walls, leave the construction for 1 week until the mortar hardens.

Brick walls need waterproofing. For this purpose, hydrostekloizol, roll insulators or bituminous mastic are usually used. The sequence of performing insulation work:

1. Treat all surfaces with a water-repellent compound.
2. Attach sheets of roofing material to the walls - fixing the material is carried out by means of heated bituminous mastic. To ensure high-quality insulation, 2-3 layers are required.
3. Walls plastered with cement.

Floor construction

The arrangement of the floor is a responsible event. The supporting structures must withstand heavy loads. Often the overlap is made from a monolithic block made of concrete and a reinforcing cage. It is important that the roof of the cellar exceeds the size of the room in area, since the walls will act as load-bearing supports.

Work execution algorithm:

1. Install supports on which the wooden formwork will subsequently be based.
2. The formwork must be carefully sealed before pouring so that the mortar does not leak out through the cracks.
3. After preparing the formwork, make a concrete slab frame from reinforcement. The spacing of the reinforcing bars is about 25 cm, the height of the frame is up to 30 cm.
4. With a large cellar area, it is recommended to perform double reinforcement of the slab.
5. The reinforcement mesh should protrude beyond the cellar wall by 5-10 cm from different sides.
6. The resulting frame is evenly poured with concrete mortar.

After pouring the slab, you need to wait 3-4 weeks. The overlay will completely harden and take its final form.

Ventilation system and electricity supply

Good air exchange is an important condition for the safety of products in the cellar. The lack of normal ventilation will lead to rotting of vegetables, and too fast circulation of air currents will lead to drying out of root crops.

In the technical room, it is preferable to create natural ventilation - it is less expensive, and its proper organization will provide sufficient air exchange. For implementation, you will need to equip the supply and exhaust duct. The exhaust element is located at the top near the ceiling, and the inlet is located on the opposite wall at a distance of half a meter from the floor.

The procedure for creating natural ventilation in the cellar with your own hands:

1. Choose an air duct based on 1 sq. m of bin area - 26 sq. see pipes.
2. The pipe is installed from the corner of the room, and its lower end should be located under the ceiling. The air duct passes through the entire room, the roof, rising half a meter above the rafter system.
3. So that condensate does not collect in the pipeline, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the exhaust pipe according to the sandwich principle. One pipe is installed in another, and the space between them is filled with mineral wool.
4. The open end of the air pipe is located at a distance of 50 cm from the lower floor level. The exhaust duct runs through the ceiling, ending 80 cm above the base.
5. Cover the outer opening of the pipe with a mesh.
6. It is advisable to put valves on the pipes that regulate the air flow.

The cellar is electrified with a double or triple insulated copper cable.

Cellar interior design

At the end of the installation work, you can begin to improve the cellar. There are several design options:

• make the walls with shelving with spacious shelves;
• hang metal shelves;
• set up shelving.

Important! All wood structures must be coated with an insect repellent and protective impregnation against moisture.

Do-it-yourself ground cellar: step by step instructions

In the country, you can equip a simple cellar with your own hands with a high level of groundwater. Inside the bin is able to maintain an air temperature of 2-3 ° C. Let's analyze an example of building a vegetable store by the type of storage shed, which has dimensions:

• height in the center of the structure - 2 m;
• width - 3.3 m, length - 3 m;
• passage width - 0.6 m.

Sequence of work:

1. Coat the logs resting on the soil with hot bituminous mastic.
2. The ceiling is made of boards, and the elements of the crate are made of hewn slab, obapol, clay straw, pine trimmings from the sawmill.
3. Roof overhangs should rest on the ground. Such an installation provides additional thermal insulation in the form of snowdrifts in the cold season. As a result, a structure is formed, like a tent.
4. On the one hand, the storage shed is sewn up with two rows of boards, between which a heater is laid. At the other end there is an insulated door.
5. Dig a drainage trench from the outer part of the lobaz along the entire perimeter, preventing the ingress of natural waters.
6. Make a hood near the ridge - a wooden box with an adjusting plate.

Do-it-yourself cellar construction: video