Laying paving slabs on a concrete base: technology of how to lay concrete, glue for flagstone, video of laying. Technology for laying paving stones on concrete Laying paving slabs on a concrete surface

In cases where it is planned to use paving slabs to create and improve sidewalks in high-traffic areas or to equip areas for parking and passage of cars, laying should be done on a concrete base.

It is this technology that is designed for high loads and can be used not only on private land plots, but also within the city for the arrangement of pedestrian paths and improvement of the area around shops, including for the entrance and parking of cars.

So how to properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base and avoid mistakes? We'll figure out.

Advantages of this method before laying paving stones on sand are associated with higher strength of the structure:

• the concrete base is resistant to high loads and mechanical damage;
• with the same strength, a simple installation system compared to asphalt pavement - there is no need to install an asphalt roller.

But there are some downsides here:

• the technology is more complex than when laying on a bed of sand and crushed stone;
• when removing a damaged slab for repair, neighboring slabs can be damaged;
• If the technology is not followed, the concrete base may begin to paint after the first winter.

Find out on the pages of our website about. Let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this technique.

Do you know how to lay clinker tiles correctly? You will learn about the features of working with this type of paving slabs.

Consumables and tools

To make it easier to carry out work according to the technology, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• concrete mixer;
• sand;
• cement grade M500;
• crushed stone;
• 2 building levels 40–50 and 80–100 cm long;
• tamping (automatic or manual);
• pegs and durable cord for marking boundaries;
• Master OK;
• rubber mallet;
• irrigation hose with shower nozzle or watering can;
• rake;
• broom.

Quantity calculation

So that there is enough material for all the work and there is not much left over, you need to make markings on the site and measure the perimeter of future sidewalks and platforms, and also calculate their area. Based on these parameters, further calculations will be carried out.

Let's move on to the instructions on how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base and what needs to be done to the concrete before laying.

Preparatory work

The preparatory stage of work is no less important than laying the paving stones themselves. If the base is made with high quality, in accordance with the technology, the sidewalk or platform will be durable and will serve for a long time. The soil is prepared as follows:

1. On the area marked with pegs and a nylon cord, soil is removed to a depth of 25 cm, extending beyond the intended contour to the thickness of the border plus another 2–3 cm. The resulting pit is cleared of plant roots and stones. If the soil is loose, a excavation is made by removing the entire fertile layer, because it is difficult to compact.
2. The bottom is leveled with a rake, moistened with a hose or watering can and compacted to prevent further subsidence of the soil. Only then do they proceed to work on the production of the supporting layer.

On our website we will tell you which one is better to choose. You will learn about the varieties of products and their quality.

Step-by-step instruction

The quality of the load-bearing layer when laying slabs on concrete is very important due to the use of rigid fixation. If done poorly, the structure will quickly crack.

Preparing a concrete pad

To improve the quality of work on preparing a concrete base for paving slabs, you can use a three-dimensional geogrid - a honeycomb-shaped structure made of a synthetic material that is resistant to rotting and chemical influences.

When stretched, such a lattice forms a frame that is stable in the horizontal and vertical directions, reinforcing any bulk material placed in the cells. The service life of such a grating is up to half a century.

Installation of curbs

In the recess remaining after dismantling the formwork, you need to install curbs. To do this, hard concrete is made, placed in the ditch with a trowel, and curb stones are installed on it one by one.

A rubber mallet is used to drive them into the solution. The gaps between the stones are filled with liquid concrete.

The height of the curbs should be at least 20-30mm below the top of the paving stones so as not to interfere with water flow. After a day, when the solution has hardened, the space between the curb stone and the walls of the trench is filled with sand.

How to put it correctly

The dimensions of the plates are selected depending on the purpose: for a sidewalk, a thickness of 4–5 cm is sufficient, and if cars will drive onto the surface, then choose paving stones no thinner than 6 cm.

On a concrete base, the slabs are laid on a dry sand-cement mixture or on a cement-sand mortar.

Sealing seams

Between the paving stones, the seams are covered with dry fiber cement. and pour water on it. The operation is repeated until the mixture stops shrinking. After 2-3 days, when the surface is completely dry, remove construction debris, sweep away small debris and dust with a broom and, if necessary, wash the surface with strong water pressure from a hose.

Useful video

You will learn even more about the technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base from this video:

Important nuances: can mistakes be avoided?

The width of the paths and the size of the platforms must be provided so that a certain number of whole tiles are laid between the edges - Avoiding unnecessary pruning can result in significant savings.. When laying tiles diagonally, there will be more waste.

Paving stones should be cut using a grinder with a stone disc. To reduce dust, the tiles are cut and then chipped off. Before making a cut, you need to place the slab in its intended place, make a mark and then cut along the mark. This will avoid mistakes and reduce waste.

Surfaces lined with paving slabs should be made with a slight slope for better water drainage. To do this, it is enough that the surface difference is 5 mm per meter.

Tracks can be tilted to one side or make the middle a little higher so that the water flows to the edges. If normal drainage from the surface is not ensured, then stagnant water will gradually seep to the concrete base and, when freezing, tear the paving stones away from it.

If the tiles are made by vibration casting, it is better to attach them to concrete with a special glue, which, with a minimum layer thickness, provides excellent attachment to the base.

The solution should be mixed as close as possible to the pouring site, and concrete cannot be mixed at temperatures below 0°C.

Security measures

First of all, you should follow safety precautions, common to all construction work, supplementing them with the following points:

• when working with cement, you should wear a respirator, and when cutting tiles, you should also wear safety glasses with safety glasses;
• with concrete, in order to avoid corroding the skin of your hands, you need to work with rubber gloves;
• upon completion of work with concrete, all tools used should be washed immediately;
• The paving stones are not allowed to be cut or split when placed on the knee.

When laying paving slabs on a concrete base, you must strictly follow the technology for performing the work. In this case, the concrete will not crack in the first winter, and the tiles will not fall off the base; paths and platforms will last for many years without repair.

Today we will talk to you about the topic of laying paving slabs on a concrete base. The most common method is laying it on a compacted sand bed. But in places where there is high traffic (playgrounds) or load (car parks), paving slabs should be laid on a reliable and prepared concrete base.

Concrete screed is also used on unstable soils or clay soils.

Pros and cons of laying tiles on concrete

The installation principle is similar to laying tiles on a concrete screed; as a result of using this technology, you get a number of advantages.

The disadvantages include:

Concrete base installation technology

The entire technology for pouring a concrete base can be divided into two stages:

1. Preparatory stage. The process of reinforcing and pouring concrete.

And so we start with marking the site. Here you can turn on your imagination and draw on paper any shapes and configurations of recreation areas, parking spaces or paths on your land plot. After you have thought through everything and drawn it, we transfer this drawing to the site.

1. When we have marked everything out and decided on the method of laying the borders. We dig a trench at different bottom levels. We clear the bottom of roots, debris and stones. In order to reduce the mixing of crushed stone with the ground to zero, you can use geotextiles; it also prevents the roots of grasses and plants from germinating. Then we fill it with crushed stone and tamp it down. As stated above, the minimum thickness is 10 cm. Then we make a 2 cm layer of sand (sand + cement). In order to prevent moisture from penetrating concrete elements from the ground, a layer of waterproofing is made. If we use roofing felt, then one layer is enough, and if we use plastic film, then we use two layers.

We will consider the case when we immediately install curbs and gutters of the stormwater system, they will play the role of formwork for the concrete base. After the sand and crushed stone base is ready, use cement mortar to level the curbs and lay the storm drainage trays.

Reinforcement of tracks with a small dynamic load is carried out in one layer. Reinforcement is made with reinforcing mesh or wire mesh.

For paths, the grid level should be located at a depth of 2-3 cm from the top edge of the concrete. To do this, you can use stands made of concrete or plastic.

If our concrete base is 15 cm thick, then first fill a 12 cm layer. Lay the reinforcement grid and fill the remaining 3 cm of concrete mortar.

Reinforcement of areas with large dynamic loads is carried out in 2 layers. The first layer is placed on stands 2-3 cm high, and the top layer on special devices (spiders, tables).

The grids are laid overlapping, at least one section. The top layer is also located at a depth of 2-3 cm, from the top edge of the concrete base.

These are simply boards laid along their entire length; after pouring, they are dismantled, and before laying paving slabs on concrete, these seams are filled with an elastic compound.

These joints compensate for the expansion and contraction of concrete during sudden temperature changes, which allows the concrete surface not to crack or swell.

A drainage system must be provided. As mentioned above, you can lower the curbs lower, or leave a small distance between the curb and the concrete surface.

Some specialists drill ready-made poured concrete at intervals of 20-30 cm across the entire surface and fill the holes with fine gravel.

You can also use scraps of plastic or asbestos pipes. They are cut in half and holes are made on the spherical circle.

When a concrete solution is poured, they are installed in such a way that the spherical part is in a layer of gravel cushion, and the cut part is flush with the upper level of the concrete base. Before laying the tiles, the pipe space is also covered with fine gravel.

The foundation for pouring is ready, the reinforcing elements are ready, the drainage system is also ready - you can start pouring the concrete solution.

For large volumes and convenient access, it is more profitable to order a ready-made solution, just be sure to prepare everything.

If this is not possible, then the concrete solution is prepared independently, and the composition of the concrete looks like this - crushed stone, sand and cement are mixed in a concrete mixer in a ratio of 3: 2: 1 + water. Pouring should be done continuously with a creamy consistency of concrete solution.

The top layer should not contain large fractions of gravel. After pouring, the entire surface of the concrete is covered with film for up to 1 week and watered periodically.

The seams between the tiles are filled with grout and spilled with water, this is done until the composition stops sagging. When using this method, you can walk on the surface during installation, and if one of the elements fails, it can be easily and quickly replaced.

Sand-cement mortar prepared in a ratio of 3 parts sifted sand and 1 part cement, everything is thoroughly mixed with water until a creamy solution is obtained.

The solution is spread on a concrete surface 2-3 cm thick. The tiles are laid and lightly tapped with a rubber mallet. You should check the horizontal level of the tiles as often as possible.

To do this, use a building level. This installation method is budget-friendly and unpretentious. It is used when arranging large areas. We also fill the seams with gritsovka or sand and do not forget to shed the seams until the mixture or sand completely shrinks.

Tile adhesive. Buy glue already packaged and dilute it in small portions before use, as it sets quickly enough. The adhesive should be used for outdoor use (streets).

It is for this reason that the tiles should be laid out carefully. The diluted adhesive solution is applied 0.5-1 cm thick. It is recommended to seal the seams with the same adhesive solution. Or sand and prancing.

And one of the most important questions is whether it is possible to lay paving slabs on an old concrete surface. First, you should inspect the surface; if it has a large number of defects (cracks, holes, chips), and is no longer so strong, then it is best to replace the concrete base.

And if the damage is not significant, then they should be filled with cement mortar, and the bumps and protrusions should be knocked down. But in general, after light reconstruction of the surface, the laying technology remains the same as when laying tiles on a concrete base.

In this case, it is more advisable to use glue as a connecting element.

Conclusion

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base is a reliable and proven technology for arranging sites with increased dynamic and static loads.

Yes, the cost increases sharply due to the formation of a concrete base, but the service life is much longer than that of sand-crushed stone bases, which will justify all your costs. We emphasize that only compliance with the entire technological cycle will provide you with long-term performance characteristics.

Paving slabs do not slip, allow water to pass through and look more aesthetically pleasing than other materials A path or sidewalk can become a convenient place for movement in a country house or in a private home. Don't think that it will be expensive or too difficult. The technology is accessible to anyone who has minimal knowledge of how to lay tiles. And the price depends on the chosen installation method.

Technology for laying paving slabs on a concrete base

A concrete base is often used if serious loads are planned on paving slabs. Under the weight, the material will not settle or deteriorate, as happens with the traditional method. If workers have installed a blind area, then a concrete screed with waterproofing properties will be required.

The durability of concrete-based sidewalks is significantly higher than with conventional installation.

The installation technology is accessible to everyone and the work can be done with your own hands. The main thing is to do drainage and drainage before the process itself. Concrete cannot allow water to pass through, and in the cold season or in the off-season this is quite dangerous.

Concrete-based tiles are not subject to deformation during operation

Stages of laying tiles on a concrete base:

• Calculation, marking and preparatory work;
• Installation of curb;
• Creation of a concrete base;
• Laying flagstones.

At the first stage, it is necessary to tighten the thread to indicate the laying level. It is necessary to arrange the correct level of sidewalk slope. Usually it is 1-3 degrees.

It is also worth taking care of soil excavation. The threshold should be about 40 cm. This is how the required soil depth is calculated, taking into account that the sidewalk is always slightly above ground level. You also need to take into account the descent for drainage.

Curbs are installed so that the path can maintain its shape. The pouring itself is quite heavy and multi-layered, so such formwork is simply necessary. One way or another, you will have to install the curb before or after pouring the concrete.

To install the edge of the sidewalk, you need to dig a trench that will be 30 cm below the bottom of the curb slab. 10-20 cm of the trench should be occupied by crushed stone, which is compacted well. Next, the solution is poured and the path fencing is installed. A day later you can begin your main work.

After excavating the soil, you need to level the ground and create the desired slope. After this, geotextiles should be laid. It is placed to prevent greenery from sprouting, which is already impossible due to the thick layer of concrete.

Next, it’s worth laying 15-20 cm of crushed stone and compacting everything. After this, you need to install the metal frame. This is done if high loads on the sidewalk are planned. After this, concrete grades M100 - M200 are poured.

Procedure: how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base

The procedure for laying paving slabs is similar to the usual installation of tiles in a bathroom or kitchen. Preparatory work does not require priming or thorough cleaning. All you have to do is choose the right installation method.

The process of laying tiles is simple, the main thing is to follow the technology

Options for installing paving slabs:

• On a wet base of sand and cement;
• On a dry base;
• For construction adhesive.

When working with the dry method, there is a large shrinkage of the material, so this method is used only by professionals. And the cost of construction glue is not affordable for everyone. That is why the best option is laying on a wet screed.

First, a cement-sand mortar is prepared. There is no need to add crushed stone to the composition. The mixture is a little stronger and thicker than with bedding.

First you need to do a fitting. You need to determine how the tiles will be placed and cut out problem areas. After this, you need to pour the solution in a layer of 2-3 cm. Next, you should lay the tiles.

Crosses are used to control the gap. It is important to monitor both the evenness of the surface and the desired slope.

After completing the work, you need to wait a couple of days for final drying. The resulting gap will need to be filled with sand using a broom. After 7 days, you can treat the cracks with a solution.

Using paving slab adhesive

If desired, you can use glue for paving slabs. The work itself is simple and can be done with your own hands. But the result is a strong and durable coating.

To work, you will need the mixture itself and the selected tile. Laying must be done on a concrete base. This will provide a durable surface on which vehicles can move.

Various sizes and colors allow you not to limit yourself in styling options

The sequence of installing tiles on construction adhesive:

1. Preparing the base. It is necessary to get rid of debris and moisten the work surface with water. If there is no curb, then you need to install a fence.
2. Laying tiles. It is necessary to lay the tiles, gradually applying glue. The layer of the mixture must be adjusted using a trowel. You can make the required slope by controlling the thickness of the layer. An individual tile should be immersed in the mixture a couple of millimeters.

A rubber hammer can help you lay paving stones correctly. Sometimes the adhesive method can be used to form the base. After preparing the soil, you just need to pour the mixture.

When applying glue, it is better to make a transverse slope. The longitudinal version will require more glue.

To make the base stronger using glue, you need to add cement, sand and gravel to the mixture. This will make the structure of the solution more durable. But such a foundation would be too expensive.

It is important to lay the tiles correctly, but besides this, there are also many nuances that relate to the installation of paving stones. First, you need to consider the risk of working with moving soil. Here it is worth compacting the soil with a vibrating saw. In addition, there are other nuances of the technology.

Damaged tiles can always be replaced without dismantling the entire covering

Practical tips and rules for performing work:

1. It is necessary to pay attention to soils with high humidity. During freezing, they will increase their volume, so the technology for laying the sidewalk is different.
2. Weather conditions must be taken into account during operation. Wind, rain, and hail directly affect the hardening of concrete.
3. The first treatment of seams should be done exclusively with sand. In this case, it is better to sift it.
4. For high-quality work, it is worth using additional tools: concrete mixers, vibrating saw. This way the crushed stone will be firmly compacted, and the concrete will have a uniform consistency.
5. If you plan to create paintings or unusual patterns, then you should try on the tiles and think about everything in advance.
6. If you do not have the skills to lay tiles, you should seek help from professionals.

The durability of the coating depends on the care of the tiles. To do this, it is worth cleaning periodically. If the paving stones are cracked or other defects appear, they can be repaired. You just need to replace the old tile covering with a new one.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base (video)

A concrete base for paving slabs is simply necessary. It strengthens the path and allows vehicles to move along it. At the same time, pouring concrete increases the service life of the flagstone. Laying work can be carried out using three methods. It all depends on the available funds and skills.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base provides the coating with the highest degree of strength. This method is most often used in areas of high load to ensure reliable adhesion of the paving stones and simplify leveling of the surface. In addition, it allows even beginners to independently improve the territory of their own home, because it is much easier to lay the material when there is a solid base underneath, rather than a moving sand-crushed stone mixture. If the technology is followed and the instructions are strictly followed, the coating laid on concrete will delight the eye with its beautiful appearance for decades.

Cases when laying paving slabs on concrete is necessary

A concrete-based tile covering is used to organize areas where special surface strength is required:

• car parking;
• storage areas for large equipment;
• areas around pharmacies, hospitals, shopping centers;
• sidewalks and paths;
• city ​​squares and parks;
• high-traffic areas: near theaters, markets, supermarkets.

Basic requirements for tile quality

Basic models of paving slabs must have performance characteristics strictly defined by GOST 17608-91 “Concrete paving slabs”:

• Frost resistance – at least 200 freezing and thawing cycles.
• Water absorption – no more than 5%.
• Abrasion – no more than 0.7 g/cm2.
• Strength – not less than 30 MPa.

If frost resistance directly depends on water absorption (the lower the second, the higher the first), then abrasion and strength are largely determined by the class of concrete and the thickness of the coating.

• Concrete-polymer tiles up to 30 mm thick are used to form sidewalks and pedestrian paths.
• Paving stones from 50 mm are used in places of significant local load; for example, a passenger car can move on such a surface.
• To make it possible to move heavy vehicles, for example, around a site near a large shopping center, tiles with a thickness of 80 mm or more, made of high-strength concrete, are selected.

By the way, if you lay paving stones on a concrete base, then their thickness can be less, even in the case of areas for large vehicles.

Where to buy tiles in the Stavropol Territory

You can buy paving slabs in Stavropol and Mikhailovsk at the “Roman Master”. The brand offers products that are not inferior in quality to foreign analogues. A variety of colors, shades and modifications will please even the most demanding customers. The paving stones are made using European equipment from first-class raw materials, which makes them especially strong, durable, resistant to abrasion, fading and destruction.

Local production, quality assurance, huge selection, fast delivery – these are the main advantages of building materials of the Roman Master brand.

We calculate the required quantity

Today, a calculator for calculating the amount of paving stones can be easily found on the Internet. It is enough to set the dimensions of the area, the sizes of the tiles and the gaps between them, and it will give the exact amount of material needed.

But there are some nuances that not all calculators take into account:

• masonry drawing;
• type and length of the border;
• non-standard shape of the site.

Advice: you should always order paving stones 5-10% more than the required quantity, taking into account trimming along the edge of the sidewalk and repairing the pavement in case of damage.

The components of the concrete base are calculated based on its thickness. The total coverage area in square meters is multiplied by the thickness of the concrete layer. The resulting figure is the number of cubic meters of material required.

We carry out preparatory work for laying the material

Preparation of the base for concrete pouring is carried out in several stages:

1. We break up the area. We fence off the covering area with pegs and twine. Be sure to take into account drainage areas.
2. We check the markings - the minimum height from the ground to the twine should be 0.4-0.5 meters (this is exactly the depth to which the soil freezes).
3. We dig a trench 25 cm and strengthen the edges with formwork to prevent further destruction.
4. We fill in the compactor (it can be compacted soil, clay or other material).
5. We make a “pillow” of 10-15 centimeters of sand.
6. Pour gravel or crushed stone, also 10-15 centimeters, carefully level and compact.

After completing the preparatory work, it is important to allow the “cushion” of sand and crushed stone to settle for 2-3 days. Then you can start pouring the concrete mixture.

Preparing a concrete pillow

After the layers of sand and crushed stone have settled for a couple of days, we fill the trench with concrete.

First, we install drainage from pieces of asbestos pipe. The holes will allow excess moisture to be removed in the future.

To ensure the strength of the base, reinforcing mesh is used. First, concrete (approximately 5 cm thick) is poured onto the “cushion” of crushed stone, then a mesh is laid, which is filled with another layer of concrete up to 10 cm.

After this, the concrete slab is poured. It is better to carry it out continuously for 3-4 hours until the entire trench is completely filled, otherwise there is a possibility of the formation of so-called cold seams, which subsequently lead to destruction of the base.

After laying, the concrete is bayoneted to remove air and compact the mixture. After three days, when the concrete base has completely hardened, you can proceed directly to laying the paving slabs.

Main features of masonry on concrete

Despite the fact that the concrete base ensures the durability of the tiled surface, there is one nuance, ignorance of which can cause significant harm to any paving stones. Excess moisture is the main enemy of the coating; when it gets between the tiles when freezing, it tears the material from the inside. Because of this, tiles can fly off in the first winter. Therefore, it is imperative to ensure reliable drainage and drainage of the site.

In addition, the process of laying paving slabs on a concrete base will become much easier if:

• Use moist, well-compacted sand (or cement mortar) as a base; it can also be used to fill tile joints.
• Be sure to install curbs - they provide special strength and greater stability to the coating.
• Purchase

Advantages and disadvantages

Paving paving slabs on concrete has a number of advantages:

• Sustainability. If masonry on sand can sag under the influence of atmospheric phenomena, then this does not threaten the concrete base, since the tiles fixed in this way cannot budge.
• Long service life. Due to the uniform distribution of the load, paving stones laid on concrete are reliably protected from premature destruction.
• Smooth surface. The coating is easily applied to a concrete base, allowing you to customize the most complex designs and various elements.

But this coating also has its drawbacks:

Moisture. Since concrete has a fairly strong and dense structure, water cannot penetrate through it into the ground, as happens in the case of paving with sand or crushed stone. If drainage systems are not properly installed, there is a risk of damage to the material - when freezing, the water turns the coating inside out.

Therefore, it is better to entrust laying tiles on a concrete base to professionals.

Consumables and tools

If you need to independently paving paving stones on a concrete base, you need to acquire the following materials and working tools:

• Cement.
• Sand.
• Crushed stone.
• Concrete mixer.
• Construction level (50 and 100 cm).
• Angle grinder (Bulgarian).
• Pusher (manual or automatic).
• Pegs for marking.
• Cord or twine.
• Hose.
• Mallet.
• Master OK.
• Rake.

With all these materials and accessories, the process of laying paving stones will become much easier.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Laying paving slabs on concrete is also carried out in several stages:

1. Prepare the surface: remove the top layer of soil and compact it well.
2. We install formwork for curbs. To do this, you will need a board 40 mm thick, reinforced with stakes every 10 centimeters.
3. We prepare the bottom layer of concrete: to protect against the germination of grass and weeds, we place a geogrid on the ground, then one layer of crushed stone. Compact and level.
4. We pour concrete. We place reinforcing mesh on the crushed stone, distribute the mixture over the entire surface in a layer of up to 15 cm. We make expansion joints and drainage systems.
5. We put up curbs. First, we fill the prepared trenches with crushed stone and concrete, then place the side stone in them.
6. Pour in a dry mixture for masonry made of cement and sand up to 10 cm thick. Carefully level it.
7. Laying the tiles. The paving stones are placed 1 piece at a time on the masonry layer, away from you. To ensure the best fit, each tile is tapped with a rubber hammer.

We fill the seams and rinse them with low pressure of water until the coating shrinks.

Preparing the adhesive composition

When choosing an adhesive for paving paving stones on concrete, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• Glue base: cement or polymer. Cement mixtures are ideal for external and internal work, and their scope of application is practically unlimited. Polymers contain water-soluble polymer resins. They are so strong that they allow you to fix paving slabs even on a vertical surface.
• Frost resistance. Mixtures for external use must withstand a wide range of temperatures and withstand up to 100 freeze-thaw cycles.

Elasticity. The higher the elasticity index, the better the shock-absorbing properties of the adhesive composition. This means that after hardening, it, together with the paving stones, creates a kind of shock-absorbing cushion, due to which the load is transferred to the concrete base.

Laying tiles

Let's take a closer look at laying the tiles themselves on a ready-made concrete base:

1. We remove the formwork.
2. Pour the sand-cement mixture.
3. Lay the tiles, leaving small gaps (approximately 5 mm). The gaps will prevent it from cracking during sudden temperature changes. Be sure to pay attention to ensuring that the distance between the tiles is the same, so the coating will have an aesthetically attractive appearance.
4. We start laying from the curb (especially if we are paving a sidewalk or path).
5. We level the surface of each tile with a mallet (a special rubber hammer). Check the line with a level.

Use a wide piece of board or a vibrating plate to press down on the surface of the coating so that the tiles fit more accurately.

Seal the tile seams

After the paving stones are laid, we seal the seams between the tiles. As a rule, they are filled with the same mixture from which the cushion was created. This “grout” prevents plants from appearing and also makes it difficult for excess moisture to get under the tiles. But with this method, it is necessary to leave thermal seams (special through gaps) in order to avoid deformation of the coating. The seams can also be filled with sand, but in this case special attention must be paid to draining water, because sand allows moisture to pass through quite well.

Precautions during work

When carrying out any construction activities, it is necessary to comply with the prescribed safety measures. Laying paving slabs on concrete in this sense is no exception. Therefore it is important:

• Use a respirator when working with cement.
• Cutting should only be done with special safety glasses.
• When working with concrete, be sure to wear rubber gloves.
• Thoroughly wash tools from mixtures immediately after finishing work.
• Only cut paving stones on hard surfaces.

If you strictly follow these rules, paving on concrete will not cause much trouble.

Let's sum it up

Paving paving stones on concrete requires certain skills and quite serious preparatory measures. But if all stages of installation are carefully completed, the concrete-based coating will last a long time, maintaining the aesthetic appearance of a private yard or city street for decades.

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Technology for laying paving slabs on a concrete base: several methods

When decorating blind areas and paving garden paths on obviously unstable soils (silty sand, fresh embankment), clay soils, laying paving slabs on a concrete base using a dry mixture, cement-sand mortar or tile adhesive is used.

In each of the presented options, the operating conditions are not the same, so the cladding technology changes.

In what cases are paving slabs laid on concrete?

Paving paths, parking lots, front yard and recreation areas with paving slabs is necessary to improve the quality of the site.

In classical technology, cladding elements are mounted on sand or dry mixture (1/5 cement, sand, respectively).

However, in difficult cases, paving slabs are laid on concrete to ensure stable coating geometry:

• shrinkage-prone soils– these are soils with low design resistance (silty sand, peat, fresh unformed embankment);
• heaving soils– are capable of destroying the coating, since the swelling is uneven in certain areas, which is due to the scaly structure of the clay.

Less often, a home craftsman needs to decorate the used structural elements with tiles with his own hands - the floor of a garage, shed, blind area, screed in the front yard, existing paths. In this case, it takes too long to dismantle the concrete; it is a solid base, so the tiles are laid on top of it.

Laying tiles on a concrete blind area.

There are several paving methods; step-by-step instructions for each of them are provided below. However, the developer should take into account the following nuances:

• soil heaving– if a blind area or path made of concrete is being lined, which has been in use for several years and has not collapsed during this time, you can be sure that there is no clay under it, but if you plan to pour a new concrete screed for the above reasons, then there is an absolute guarantee that in the freezing layer there are no clay soils, the owner of the site does not have one;
• moisture– the concrete screed and curbs on the sides (at the blind area, the curb and foundation on the other side) are a rigid box; rain runoff, even if there is a storm drain on the side, partially penetrates the structure through the seams, saturates the concrete (possibly cracking when freezing) and saturates the solution or sand that swells in winter.

A rigid concrete trough can accumulate precipitation, preventing it from evaporating.

Important! To eliminate swelling, drainage along the outer perimeter of the blind area and insulation with extruded polystyrene foam at a depth of 40 cm are necessary.

The only way to get rid of moisture accumulation is to lay the elements with tile adhesive, which will fill the seams and prevent drainage from penetrating into the structure.

On the other hand, unlike clay, sand saturated with moisture increases in volume evenly when frozen:

• all tiles will rise to the same height in winter without causing trouble to the owner;
• In the spring, the water thaws and the tiles will return to their original state.

Therefore, this nuance is most often neglected, especially in combination with a linear storm drain, the gutters of which are installed along the outer perimeter of the blind area or on one side of the path between the curbs and tiles.

Rigid concrete base layer technology

In the paving option under consideration, the paving slabs are supposed to be placed inside a rigid “trough”, the bottom of which will be a concrete screed. The rules for concreting are similar for slab foundations with minor additions:

• the lower reinforced belt can be used in parking lots, the paths are reinforced only in the upper third so that the screed can withstand the forces of possible swelling;
• Concrete can only be laid on non-metallic materials in which heaving forces are reduced, therefore the topsoil layer is removed to a depth of 0.4 m;
• the height of the curbs and storm drainage trays is significantly greater than the thickness of the tiles, so it is necessary to calculate the depth of the trench depending on the thickness of the screed.

Pouring concrete screed before paving with tiles.

For example, with a concrete thickness of 5 cm, a base layer of 15 cm and a tile of 6 cm, the depth of the pit will be 26 cm. And the height of the curb is 20 cm, the height of the storm drain is 13 - 41 cm, you will need to plan the bottom of the trench at different levels.

In addition, for gravity removal of wastewater from the path, slopes of 2 - 4 degrees in the transverse and longitudinal direction are required.

In parking lots, slopes are usually created in one direction - towards the roadway or wastewater is collected from the side of the site and discharged into an underground container.

Slopes for paving slabs.

Important! Even when laying tiles on a dry mixture, it will be very difficult to create these slopes, and when using tile adhesive it is impossible.

If paving slabs need to be laid on an existing old base (slab or screed), you can go straight to step 3.

Marking and installation of borders

Materials for DIY paving of paths and parking lots must be purchased before this stage. The route of the path and the configuration of the parking lot and recreation area depend on the owner’s imagination. The marking technology looks like:

• the first cord is installed;
• a garden border, a storm drain tray, solid tiles along the width of the path, a second curb are placed on the dry ground close to it, a second cord is pulled;
• on radius/curvilinear sections of the path, markings can be created with paint or lime mortar directly on the ground.

After that, the fertile layer is removed from the inside of the zone outlined by the cord to a depth of 0.4 m.

The cord is installed along the outer perimeter of the curb.

Advice! If storm drainage trays with a height of 30–41 cm are used, a trench of greater depth is created in the places where they pass, taking into account adding at least 10 cm of crushed stone and laying these elements on a 2 cm layer of sand concrete or cement-sand mortar.

Scheme for calculating the depth of the trench.

If the slope of the site is more than 7 degrees, steps are designed inside the paths.

If large-format areas are being decorated (front yard, parking lot, recreation area), the area is first terraced with road curb stones, concrete retaining walls or gabions.

The width of the blind area or path.

Slopes are created in the soil, underlying layer (sand, crushed stone) or in the concrete itself when it is laid. Recommended angle:

• 1 - 2 degrees across the path towards the storm drain;
• 3 – 7 degrees along the path.

For large rectangular or square areas (for example, a parking lot), slopes are created from the center to the perimeter or in one direction.

At the same stage, stormwater inlets are installed under the roof drainage pipes or transverse storm drainage trays, which drain rainwater.

Mutual mixing of crushed stone/sand with soil can be prevented by laying geotextiles at the bottom of the trench.

This material prevents the germination of weed roots, so it is used in most cases.

The minimum thickness of a layer of non-metallic material for compaction with a vibrating plate is 10 cm.

To prevent the absorption of cement laitance during concreting, the crushed stone is leveled with sand and covered with rolled waterproofing (roofing felt or Bikrost) or two layers of polyethylene film.

Curbs and storm drainage trays are mounted on the mortar and leveled horizontally with a rubber mallet. After the solution hardens, they actually become permanent formwork for the concrete screed.

The cord is carried inside for installation of borders.

Reinforcement and laying of the mixture

If the developer is lining the blind area, it is recommended to insulate this structure with extruded polystyrene foam (thickness 5 - 10 mm), adjoining the horizontal layer to the vertical thermal insulation of the base/foundation. The laying depth is 40 cm or at the level of the sole of the MZLF. This method eliminates swelling, the blind area does not experience serious loads from pedestrian traffic, so it does not need to be reinforced.

It’s more difficult with paths and parking lots:

• parking lots are subject to loads from cars, they are reinforced with two meshes (reinforcement or wire); Reinforcement of the screed in the parking lot in two layers.
• paths can be reinforced with one mesh to protect the screed from destruction in case of possible swelling of the clay soils underneath in the freezing zone; Reinforcement in one layer.

It’s easier to buy wire mesh; you can knit reinforcement mesh yourself from “corrugated” rods with a diameter of 6 – 8 mm

Step-by-step instructions for reinforcement are as follows:

• the lower protective layer is provided by laying the mesh on plastic or concrete pads, the thickness of which should be calculated individually;
• the overlap of individual cards is at least one cell (10 x 10 cm or 20 x 20 cm).

For example, to reinforce a 15 cm thick screed on a path, 12 cm spacers will be required so that the mesh is located in its upper part.

For parking, spacers of a minimum thickness of 1.5 - 3 cm are used, the upper mesh is laid on tables, “spiders” or other special elements.

Expansion joints are created by wooden slats laid 4 - 6 m across the path.

They can be placed between the reinforcement or interrupt the mesh in expansion joints, using cards of the required size for each section of the screed.

The gap is created throughout the entire thickness of the concrete.

Installation of bars for expansion joints.

To obtain concrete screed slopes, different methods are used:

• for the blind area, you can draw two lines - on the base and the storm drain tray or curb, and follow them as a rule when pulling out the top layer;
• for the path, similar lines are created on the curbs on both sides;
• inside a rectangular parking lot it is easier to place plaster beacons, pieces of pipe, bars, galvanized profiles used in gypsum plasterboard systems.

Advice! Depending on the air temperature, paving can begin 3–15 days after pouring the screed so that the cement stone gains at least 70% strength.

Laying paving slabs on concrete

If there is a hard underlying layer, you can lay the tiles using glue, mortar and grout (a dry mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 5/1, respectively). However, when using the first two options, the installation rules differ from the cladding with porcelain stoneware and tiles.

If you place the elements on a trampoline, the labor costs and finishing budget are sharply reduced, but you will need a vibrating plate for thorough compaction, first of the dry mixture, then of the finished coating. When choosing a dry technology, the tiles are laid with your own hands in front of you, and the master moves along the already paved area.

In “wet” technologies, walking is possible every other day; the tiler applies mortar/glue to 1 – 1.5 m2, moving backwards.

Mortar mounting

The budget wet method is used for large paving areas. Classic cement-sand mortar is easy to use because it has a long lifespan. The technology has nuances:

• the recommended layer thickness is 2 – 3 cm, so that the cladding does not “float” and does not push through it completely when leveling;
• to increase productivity, the solution is applied to an area within the reach of the master’s hands and leveled with a notched trowel;
• then tiles are laid on the blind area, path or parking lot in accordance with the pattern.

Paving tiles with mortar.

The slopes and flatness of the surface are controlled by level and rule, respectively.

First, the space is filled with solid tiles; in unlined areas, the entire mortar is carefully selected with a trowel or spatula.

After the mixture has hardened, the scraps are cut out and installed at the place of use. The seams are covered with sand or grout and spilled with water.

Using tile adhesive

The next “wet” method is similar to the previous technology with minor differences:

• glue has a shorter lifespan and tile adjustments;
• it is kneaded in small quantities, focusing on the level of training of the master;
• the diluted solution is applied to a smaller surface (0.5 - 0.7 m2) in a layer of 0.5 - 1 cm.

Installation with tile adhesive.

The seams are processed either with the same glue or with a pliers, similar to the previous method.

Laying on dry mix

The step-by-step instructions for dry paving technology differ from the previous ones:

• prancing is mixed from seeded sand and Portland cement;
• the entire “trough” of the path or parking lot is filled with it (thickness 5 cm);
• the material is compacted with a vibrating plate;
• the tiles are laid using a rubber mallet;
• then pieces are cut out for difficult areas;
• the entire surface of the coating is compacted with a vibrating plate;
• the seams are filled with garter tape.

Prancing installation.

This method allows you to walk on the coating already during the laying process and ensures maximum repairability of the elements in the event of their accidental splitting when heavy objects fall.

Thus, the step-by-step instructions differ when using different compositions on which paving slabs are laid.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them.

Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be performed and you will receive proposals with prices from construction teams and companies by email.

You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Source: http://MasterskayaPola.ru/trotuarnaya-plitka/ukladka-na-betonnoe-osnovanie.html

Laying paving slabs on concrete: selection of material, installation instructions

To ensure a stable level of wear of the coating, experts advise laying paving slabs on a concrete pad. This does not require any special equipment. It is enough to know the intricacies of working with a concrete base.

Features of choosing paving stones

To carry out high-quality installation of the tile covering, you need to choose the right tile for the concrete base.

Material

Regardless of the raw materials used, paving slabs can be clay, stone, rubber, concrete, or wood.

Paving stones are chosen based on the purpose of its use.

Tiles made from natural materials: wood or stone are suitable for finishing paths in the garden.

For playgrounds, it is advisable to use soft rubber products to minimize the negative consequences of children falling.

It is better to pave parking areas and entrances with concrete tiles to ensure the durability of the coating.

Production technology

Modern facing slabs are made by vibration casting or vibration pressing.

Tiles produced by technology vibration casting, designed for paving paths designed for light loads. Advantages:

• large selection of colors;
• clearly applied drawing;
• ideal for finishing garden paths.

Main disadvantage- insufficiently precise geometry of individual tiles.

Products made using the method vibrocompression, have the following characteristics:

• simple forms;
• high strength;
• limited selection of colors.

This type of cladding is suitable for paving parking lots, sidewalks and roads.

Other selection criteria

Tiles are produced mainly in the shape of a hexagon and a right angle. Some companies produce “wave”, “herringbone”, “rocket”.

Rectangular paving stones are a universal solution.

With its help, it is easy to form patterns that imitate brickwork, “checkerboard”, “ladder”.

Size is the main factor when choosing paving stones for concrete.

The load will be distributed more efficiently with small dimensions of individual elements.

To pave straight paths, the size of the slabs does not play a special role. When finishing arc-shaped terraces, small tiles are used.

When purchasing facing material for a concrete base, you need to check the quality certificate and get acquainted with the main characteristics of the tiles:

• frost resistance. The indicators should be F100÷F200;
• compressive strength (50 MPa);
• washability during annual use (≤ 0.7 g/cm2);
• moisture absorption by weight (≤ 5%).

The tile must have a thickness:

• 4 cm for pedestrians;
• more than 6 cm for bicycle paths;
• 7-8 cm for road transport;
• 1 cm for heavy vehicles.

You can get an idea of ​​the quality of the tiles by the sound. To do this, you need to knock the paving stones on the paving stones. A dull sound indicates a violation of the manufacturing technology. Voiced - good strength and drying.

The surface of the products should be free of porosity, internal and external cracks, and chips.

In order for the paving slabs to lie evenly and securely on the concrete base, bumps, depressions and other irregularities are not allowed on it.

An uneven or too bright shade indicates non-compliance with paint application technology. Therefore, the products are not strong enough.

Paving of paths is carried out only in clear and dry weather. Before carrying out work, you should focus on the meteorological forecast.

When installing paving stones on a concrete base, the following rules should be followed:

1. The top edge of the tile should be below the level of the lawn.
2. Paving should only be done on a finished base. It is advisable to install a crushed stone cushion under the concrete.
3. Lay out the cladding, maintaining 5 mm gaps between the elements.
4. Check the evenness of the masonry using two rules. The long rule is to control the correctness of the paved part, the short rule is the horizontality of the tiles in the neighborhood.
5. Lay solid slabs first, cut slabs later.
6. Mark the area with frequent stakes.
7. Prepare a mixture of cement and sand, maintaining a ratio of 1:3.

After finishing the lining, the path is allowed to “stand” for 3-5 days.

Laying methods

Laying paving slabs on concrete is carried out using a cement-sand mixture or liquid mortar.

The first technology involves mixing one part of cement with three parts of sifted sand.

The cladding is placed tightly on the “cushion” and the seams are sealed with a cement-sand mixture and watered. The actions are repeated several times.

Laying on a liquid solution guarantees reliable and durable paving. But if deformed, the coating cannot be restored.

Step-by-step instruction

To lay paving slabs on a concrete base, you need Prepare the necessary materials and tools:

• the cladding itself (it’s better to buy a little more);
• stone for border;
• crushed stone 10-20 fractions;
• sand, cement, water;
• twine, crosses for installing paving stones;
• trowel, rubber hammer;
• Drill with a mixing attachment or concrete mixer;
• shovel, brush;
• level, long and short rule.

To trim paving stones, you will need a grinder.

Marking and preparing the base

Before marking the site, it is necessary to develop a diagram on paper: think through the order of laying out the paving stones, calculate the dimensions, count the number of materials.

Further actions:

1. Transfer the markings to the territory using pegs and a cord. The thread will indicate the height of the slabs. The angle of inclination towards the drainage system should be 5°.
2. Measure the space between the ground level and the cord. If the height is less than 30 cm, remove the top layer of soil and make a trench.
3. Free the pit from rhizomes and vegetation. At the bottom, arrange a crushed stone cushion 10-15 cm thick, following the slope.

The result will be a trench with a bottom of different levels.

To mix the concrete solution, take 1 part cement and 3 parts sand.

It is necessary to strictly observe the proportions in order to prepare a good solution. It should have a liquid consistency, like sour cream.

Algorithm for pouring concrete

• pour the resulting mixture 2-5 cm thick onto a crushed stone cushion and level it;
• arrange borders around the perimeter;
• wait a day and pour the next layer of concrete;
• to strengthen the base, lay a reinforcing mesh on top;
• the pit is once again filled with sand-cement mortar.

When large areas or long paths are concreted, expansion joints of at least 5 cm are left every 3 meters.

Procedure for laying tiles

The paving stones are laid from the curb, moving from top to bottom towards the drain.

A mortar 3 cm thick is applied to the concrete base and the facing material is laid out.

To give the path uniqueness and effectiveness, the tiles are laid in various patterns:

• column;
• herringbone;
• brickwork.

To maintain an equal distance between the plates, use 4-5 mm plastic corners.

The location of the paved paving stones is trimmed with a rubber hammer. The horizontal position is checked using a level.

The tile joints are covered with a cement-sand mixture (dry), and the excess is swept away with a broom or broom.

The resulting coating is watered. If necessary, the gaps are refilled with sand and moistened.

The subtleties of laying paving stones on an old concrete base

Before paving tiles on old concrete, it is necessary to assess its condition. It must not have significant defects.

To lay paving stones on an old concrete base, perform the following steps:

• thoroughly clean the surface from dust and dirt;
• remove cracks and bumps, fill cavities;
• apply a primer to improve adhesion to the glue;
• the tiles are laid out on the site, the material is cut or trimmed if necessary;
• remove part of the old paving stones;
• special glue is applied to the concrete surface (in the form of a dry mixture);
• On the adhesive composition, maintaining small gaps (special crosses are used for this), the paving stones are mounted.

The work is carried out “step by step”, laying out the entire path with tiles.

Thus, paving slabs laid on a concrete base with strict adherence to technology will not sag even under strong mechanical stress.

If paving is done correctly, the paving stones will not budge. This is the key to a long service life of the coating in areas of heavy traffic.

Source: https://dvabrevna.ru/zemelniy-uchastok/ukladka-trotuarnoy-plitki-na-beton.html

How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base

So unusual at first, paving slabs have firmly entered our lives. Nowadays you won’t surprise anyone with an openwork pattern near a house or store; on the contrary, rare islands of asphalt along the main street are perceived as something alien and unusual.

The use of paving slabs, in addition to the obvious visual effect, also has practical reasons. Let's get acquainted with them, as well as with the installation technology.

Benefits of use

1. Relatively affordable price. High-quality coverage is not as easy to obtain as it seems, so the cost of reliable sidewalks will be quite significant.
2. Easy to install.

   If the asphalt pavement requires the use of special equipment and in general this method is labor-intensive and difficult to perform independently.

   A special feature of laying paving slabs is the ability to install them yourself in a relatively short time.

3. Huge assortment. Moreover, this diversity is constantly expanding due to the production of new types of tiles.
4. Stable and reliable support. There are special types that have a non-slip surface even in heavy rain and snow. Resistance to temperature changes and mechanical damage has long proven itself.
5. Durability of the coating. Manufacturers provide a warranty period for their products of at least 10, and in some cases up to 40 years of operation.
6. Ease of repair.

   If for some reason bald spots have formed in the path, integrity can be restored by selectively replacing the damaged tile with a new one.

7. No puddles or heavy icing, is considered an important factor.

   Excess moisture is simply absorbed between the seams.

8. Environmental friendliness. The manufacturing process itself does not involve the use of harmful and toxic substances.

   Compared to asphalt and other coatings, such a surface does not heat up too much in the sun and does not emit any foreign substances into the surrounding air.

9. Versatility of shapes.

   Using such tiles, you can cladding any configuration, not just a rectangle.

You may also be interested in old city tile installation options.

Laying methods

• With minimal knowledge and skills, as well as a lot of patience, you can lay paving slabs yourself. This will allow you to significantly save on the cost of such a project, and also guarantee a positive result and the acquisition of the necessary experience in such work (which can always come in handy).
• First you need to decide on a possible installation method, as well as prepare tools and materials.
• Typically, such a coating requires a cement or adhesive mortar. Both methods are good in their own way, but also have their weaknesses. If the advantage of cement mortar is cost, then installation with special glue will be much easier to perform.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base

How to properly lay tiles on a concrete base? The presence of a concrete base will significantly simplify the task of laying paving slabs.

Pouring the concrete base, progress of work

1. At the site of the future path, the top layer of soil is removed “to the point”, i.e. by 20–25 cm.
2. Leveling and compacting the surface and removing stones and plant stems. You can put a layer of geosynthetic material (geotextile) that will restrain the growth of plants.
3. Waterproofing material will also not hurt; the most budget option is a couple of layers of roofing felt.
4. A layer of crushed stone or gravel will provide the necessary “cushion” for the base. Carefully level the surface with a rake. The layer height is up to 15 cm, everything is compacted.
5. The reinforcing mesh is laid on top of crushed stone (gravel).
6. Using a building level and pegs, the boundaries of the path are marked and a cord is pulled to determine the height of the fill.
7. The edges of the area for pouring are limited by wooden formwork - boards 2–2.5 cm thick.
8. Pour the prepared concrete-cement mixture 5–7 cm thick with breaks for hardening. This way we will get a really rigid and durable base.
9. When pouring, adjust a slight (up to 1 degree) slope from the center to the edges to drain rainwater from the finished path.
10. For large areas, so-called expansion joints should be left every two to three meters. To do this, the small gap between the concrete slabs is filled with an elastic material that can change volume under the influence of temperature.

Source: https://2Gazon.ru/dekor/trotuarnaya-plitka/kak-polozhit-na-betonnoe-osnovanie.html

How to properly lay tiles on a concrete base?

For areas with high pedestrian traffic, car parks, and for sidewalks with places for cars to pass, it is better to lay paving slabs on concrete.

The technology is designed for high loads. Concrete has a high load-bearing capacity, that is, it does not lose its functional qualities in the long term.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base is the key to a stable, time-tested coating.

With the help of tiles, paths, streets and squares are lined on the street, in a personal plot, and the blind area around a house or building is covered.

It provides a convenient and practical tile covering for the movement of people and cars, as well as a well-groomed appearance of the landscaped area.

Despite the higher cost of a concrete base, the prospect of preserving the paving stones in proper form for many years determines the customer’s choice.

Diagram of a concrete base for laying paving slabs

Before deciding whether to use it as a base for paving slabs, you need to understand what advantages the material provides compared to laying it on sand and crushed stone.

Characteristics of concrete:

• strength;
• density;
• plastic;
• waterproof;
• fire resistance.

Durability that increases over time

The material has the ability to resist loads without collapsing, which determines its high load-bearing capacity.

This characteristic of concrete depends on many conditions: the activity of cement, the quality of the constituent elements - sand, crushed stone, gravel, water.

Conditions also influence:

• kneading;
• transportation;
• styling;
• hardening;
• age of concrete.

Density

The basis of the indicator is the ratio of solid matter in the material and pores that are formed as a result of the penetration of air or water into the mixture.

For example, a concrete density of 0.9 means that the mixture is 90% solid and 10% voids. The denser the mixture, the better.

In this indicator, the crushed stone base is significantly inferior, since its density is lower.

Plastic

The concrete mixture is more mobile compared to the crushed stone-sand mixture. This factor determines the ability of concrete to fill the most inaccessible places during installation, the bends of structures, avoiding voids and cavities.

Water permeability

This is the ability of a material to pass water. In concrete it is small and can be reduced even further by adding modern technological additives and fillers.

Additive to concrete to improve water resistance

Water resistance depends on different conditions:

• age of the material;
• density;
• structures.

In this regard, the advantages of a crushed stone base can compete with a concrete base in the sense that moisture from crushed stone penetrates well into the soil.

Moisture from the concrete will transfer into the tiles, which can lead to their rupture in winter.

On the other hand, the tiles are laid on a cement-sand mixture, which protects it from moisture.

Fire resistance

Refers to the ability of a material to resist destruction under the influence of fire or high temperature. Concrete retains its properties at temperatures up to 250°.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base

Concrete foundation pouring technology

Tiles laid on a concrete base will last for decades if the technology for preparing and pouring the base has been followed.

The technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base takes place in several stages.

Initially, the fertile layer of soil is removed from the marked area. It is enough to remove 15–20 cm of the earthen layer to prevent plants from breaking through the tiles.

This is followed by the installation of a sand base. A layer of sand is spread on the ground.

Its height is calculated depending on the height of the path, tiles, layer of cement-sand mixture and layer of concrete.

By adding the height of the materials taking into account the height of the structure above the ground, the height of the sand layer is determined. Curbs are installed on the layer of sand, which act as formwork.

The next step is to lay the reinforced mesh.

Mesh for concrete reinforcement

A mesh of reinforcement is knitted in cells of standard sizes 150*150 or 200*200, placed on a sand base, and raised 2–3 cm from the sand level.

This is done so that the reinforcement after pouring is at the bottom of the concrete.

It is in the lower part of the base that the reinforcement will work in tension, that is, create the effect of a monolithic slab.

If a void forms in some part of the material, the reinforced concrete will act as a floor, protecting the structure from failure and subsidence. This can happen where paths intersect with recently laid utility lines:

• power and low-current electrical cables;
• storm drainage;
• water pipes;
• domestic sewerage;
• wells;
• storm water inlets.

Final stage

Vibrating screed for laying concrete

On large areas or long sidewalks, monolithic concrete should be laid out in squares of 6 * 6 m in order to create temperature and expansion joints. To do this, before pouring, formwork is made from boards 25 mm thick. Material is poured into the created squares.

After 2–3 hours, when the material has not completely set, the boards are removed. After 7 days, concrete acquires 30% of its strength from the declared grade. After 28 days this value will be 70%.

Laying paving stones on a concrete base can be done the next day. To remove water by gravity from the surface of the path, it is necessary to provide for its slope by 2-4 degrees to the side.

The tiles are laid on a dry cement-sand mixture. The average cement consumption for preparing a dry mixture is 50 kg per 10 square meters. m, sand 400 kg.

Laying tiles on new and old concrete

Carrying out this stage requires adherence to certain principles, since laying paving slabs on a concrete base correctly is no less important than preparing the base for it.

After the cement-sand mixture is poured onto the set concrete, the laying of paving slabs on the mortar begins. A solution of cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:1 is laid on it.

To do this, take dry masonry, river or sifted sand, add the same volume of cement, mix and fill the seams between the coating using a broom.

Sweep the tiles until all the cement-sand mixture is swept from it into the seams.

If this is not done, then after the first rain the cement will be absorbed into it, turning it from colored to gray. The seams are swept in dry weather.

The flagstone is laid using a level in accordance with the drawing.

In a situation where the customer wants to update old paths by laying them with a new modern coating on old concrete, it may turn out that the base is in unusable condition. A logical question arises: is it possible to lay paving slabs on old concrete?

A properly installed trough and good concrete will create a high-quality base for paving over many years.

If the concrete does not have serious damage, failures or defects, then laying concrete paving slabs can be carried out according to the rules described above.

Before paving, the old base is cleared of debris and dust, cracks, cracks and chips are sealed with cement.

After drying, level the surface.

In addition to the cement-sand mixture, tiles can be installed on an old concrete base using liquid tile adhesive.

Liquid tile adhesive

Conclusion

If the old concrete base has significant damage, then it is better to remove it and create a new one, otherwise the new coating will fall off after a few seasons. This is relevant for places with high traffic of people, and even more so the roadway.