Making torn stone tiles with your own hands. Artificial boulder made from old fabric

Artificial stones have been produced for a long time. The substance is a frozen mixture of certain materials. The same brick or mortar can also be classified as artificial. However, in this article we will talk about artificial stones, which have found application in home decoration and landscape design. In the article you will also learn the process of making such materials at home, as well as the technology for creating stones with your own hands.

Artificial stones - what is their advantage

Some people ask a completely reasonable question: why create artificial stones when nature has already created real masterpieces in the wild. There is a certain logic, but when comparing two types of stones - artificial and natural, you can see that natural material is very expensive. Not everyone is able to purchase such stones to decorate a house or adjacent area. In addition, the stone is very fragile, so there are big problems with cutting it. If left in its original form, it will place too much stress on the walls and ceilings due to its enormous weight.

Such problems will not arise if you try to make artificial stone with your own hands or purchase such material at a hardware store. Mechanical properties, quality, durability, appearance - in all these indicators, imitation is in no way inferior to its natural analogue. There are several other important advantages:

• The stone is available in various designs, including in the form of thin small tiles that have a high level of strength but do not put pressure on the walls;
• You can produce such materials directly on your own site, which eliminates the need to spend extra money on transporting finished products;
• A huge number of surface textures and color shades. To create stone, you can use various formworks and other forms so that the result looks beautiful and original;
• Depending on the manufacturing methods, artificial stone can be smooth and shiny, resulting in no need for grinding and polishing;
• The shape of the artificial stone can be absolutely any, it all depends on your imagination and imagination.

If you put natural and handicraft stones side by side, an ordinary person will not even be able to tell the difference. Thanks to modern technologies, it is possible to create stones at home, taking into account all the features of natural analogues, avoiding all their disadvantages, preserving only their positive qualities. The surface can be absolutely anything, for example, arbitrarily decorative, represent a cut of sawn mineral, and also imitate uneven edges in the form of chips.

Classification of artificial stones - their main varieties

The production of artificial stones is carried out in a variety of ways. Depending on this, as well as on the source materials on the basis of which the material is prepared, the following types of stones are distinguished:

• Ceramic stone. The base is ordinary clay, which undergoes heat treatment at high temperatures. It is quite difficult to obtain such a stone at home, since it requires specially trained personnel, a large amount of energy, as well as large areas for work;
• Gypsum stone. Excellent for creating at home using the casting method, due to the low cost of raw materials and the processing process itself. The only limitation is that gypsum stone can be used exclusively in interior spaces, since low temperatures have a destructive effect on the structure of the material;
• Concrete molded stone. This option is also suitable for home production. In addition, it has increased resistance characteristics to high and low temperatures. The disadvantage is the high cost - concrete forms fail quite quickly, which requires their regular replacement;
• Polyester stone. This type of artificial stone boasts remarkable decorative and mechanical qualities, in no way inferior to natural stones. However, you won’t be able to do it yourself, which is due to the complexity of the technological process. The binder is processed with polymers only at very high temperatures under absolute vacuum conditions;
• Acrylic stone. A very popular option along with gypsum stones, since you can make it yourself at minimal cost. Important advantages include the complete absence of pores, as well as a high level of chemical resistance, resulting in excellent sanitation and hygiene. The casting method allows you to create very durable and strong materials of any thickness at home, which are even suitable for use as stone wallpaper.

The main reason that forces you to make a solution and subsequently produce artificial stones at home is the low cost of the finished product. Even though the price of the product is significantly lower than natural stones, such financial costs are still unacceptable for many. If you have sufficient skills, knowledge, experience and tools, you can relatively inexpensively make exactly the kind of stone that is best suited for you for finishing walls and other surfaces of any area.

We make stones at home - what we need

The entire process of preparing stones includes several stages, each of which we will discuss in detail. Among the main stages, we should highlight the creation of models of stones, the preparation of a linear form, the mixing of the finished mixture with its subsequent molding, as well as the addition of pigments or dyes if necessary.

Naturally, creating high-quality artificial stone without the appropriate equipment is an impossible task. To implement our plans, you will need the following list of tools and devices:

1. 1. Vibration stand. This is the main equipment, the heart and brain of the entire process. Competent and correct work with the stand has a direct impact on the quality and strength characteristics of the final product. Due to its design features, homogeneity of the solution is achieved for its subsequent polymerization. This equipment can be purchased at the store, but you can also assemble the table manually if you want to save money.
2. 2. Models of casting molds. If you do not have ready-made products for molding, then you will not be able to do without models.
3. 3. Release agent. A special substance applied to the inner surface of the mold, as well as to the model itself during the manufacture of the mold. As the name suggests, the mixture provides separation of materials, preventing them from sticking to each other.
4. 4. Casting molds. It is in these forms that the solution will be present during its polymerization. There is no point in saving on molds, since cheap plastic products will cause unsightly stones, the shape of which will differ dramatically from your expectations. In addition, after just a few stages of pouring the solution, low-quality forms can simply break. Preference should be given to polyurethane products, as well as silicone molds, which boast reliability, durability and durability.
5. 5. Foundry mixtures. The composition from which an artificial stone will later be made, which we will discuss in more detail below.
6. 6. Coloring pigments. Required in cases where you want to give artificial stone a color that most accurately imitates natural minerals.
7. 7. Sand pillow. The need for this device is due to the protection of casting molds from damage and deformation that occurs during the manufacture of artificial stones.
8. 8. A heating device, for example, a hair dryer or a heat gun. Due to the strong and hot air jet, it is able to weld finished acrylic elements.

Models for creating stones - the correct technology for creating them

Various options can be used as models for creating casting molds. So, ordinary natural stones of appropriate sizes and shapes are suitable, but you can purchase several blanks in the store. However, regardless of the chosen option, the range of shapes and surface reliefs will be seriously limited. The way out of the situation is very simple - it’s ordinary clay, which is an almost endless material for creating unusual and unique models. Moreover, it’s material that you don’t have to pay for.

Unlike other natural substances that could be used for similar purposes, working with clay does not require any additional permits. Clay is initially suitable for creating models; there is no need to perform analyzes for fat content and the content of any impurities.

It is required to assemble a special grille consisting of strips of thin and smooth plastic. The height of the grate depends on several factors, including the source material from which the stone is made. So, for clay with stucco, you will need a grid with a height of up to 40 mm, for acrylic stones made of liquid clay the height will be no more than 3 mm, and for gypsum and concrete substances this figure is in the range from 6 to 12 mm.

In general, a flat panel is used, which is rolled with PVC film. We will subsequently place a grid on this shield, each of the cells of which will be filled with clay or any other solution. Experts advise placing grilles in places protected from direct sunlight. After all, the sun can damage the surface texture of finished products, since the rays lead to the appearance of numerous cracks and chips. If a low grid is selected, then the solution is poured into it almost to the top. This will provide a unique and natural texture after complete drying. For a high grid, the filling level of the composition is adjusted based on the required height or thickness of the finished product.

Finally, we note that the master can independently change the surface relief of stones, creating various unusual signs, runes or even hieroglyphs. In any case, drying of artificial stones should be carried out in a dry place, where, as already indicated, there is no direct sunlight. As practice shows, it may take up to five days depending on the level of humidity and temperature.

To speed up the drying process, you can use additional tools, for example, an infrared lamp with a power of up to 200 W. The lamp should be placed at a distance of about two meters. This matters because being too close can cause the same effect as the sun, causing the stone to become covered in a network of cracks. And a lamp that hangs too far away will not have any positive effect at all.

Creating homemade forms - how to do it correctly

When creating artificial stones with your own hands, it is recommended to use silicone molds, which you can also construct without any problems. We need a straight, flat surface covered with film. We lay out any number of models on this film and surround it with a side that is approximately 2 cm above the level of the outer surface of the model. In addition, we will need some additional substances, for example, grease or similar fatty lubricants, with which we will lubricate the model itself, as well as the inside of the fence.

The shield assembled in this way, which must be placed in a strictly horizontal order, will be used in the future as a bottom for the casting mold.

The next stage of work involves filling the shield with acidic silicone. As a rule, such substances have a characteristic unpleasant odor of vinegar. Silicone is squeezed directly from a can or tube onto a casting model. You should start from the middle of the side, filling the silicone in a spiral. If necessary, the silicone should be smeared with a flute brush to prevent bubbles. To maximize the effect, dip the brush in a specially diluted solution, preferably from a dishwashing detergent. Soap diluted in water will not help us, since the alkali it contains has a negative effect on silicone.

That's basically all. When the silicone solution completely fills the cells, use a metal spatula to carefully smooth the surface, not forgetting to wet the spatula in the same solution that we made for dipping the brush. Leave the mold in a dry place for several days.

This time, an infrared lamp will not help us, but if you want to speed up the drying process, you can achieve the effect using a fan, since ventilation significantly increases the drying speed of the silicone. Finally, we note that the finished product will serve in the manufacture of artificial stones for a very long time. So, if everything was done correctly, the resource will be more than a hundred castings.

Mixtures for stones - proportions and ratios of materials

In order for artificial stones made at home to meet your requirements and expectations in terms of beauty, quality and durability, it is necessary to mix the mixtures in the correct proportions. If we talk about concrete stones, then its base is a mixture of sand and cement. In this case, three shares of cement should be added to one share of sand. If polymer additives or mineral dyes are added, their weight should not exceed 6 percent of the weight of the finished product.

With stones for the production of which gypsum is used, the situation is somewhat different. The solution includes elements such as gypsum itself, as well as water with a volume of about 80 percent of the volume of gypsum. That is, the ratio is almost one to one. In addition to these components, you will need to add 0.3% citric acid. The mass of pigments remains the same - up to 6 percent of the mass of the entire mixture.

It should be noted that the gypsum solution can only be stored for 10 minutes, after which it loses its performance characteristics. In this regard, it is necessary to prepare small portions, otherwise most of the mixture will be hopelessly spoiled.

It is impossible not to talk about acrylic stones, which are very popular and in demand. The material is created from a hardener and acrylic resin, and the ratio is one to three, respectively. The hardener includes mineral pigments, as well as various fillers, including screenings, stone chips or regular gravel. It should be noted that to increase the strength of the stone, gravel or stone chips will need to be added as much as possible, but this will negatively affect the elasticity of the product.

The recipe for producing acrylic stone is very simple. To begin with, the filler is thoroughly washed in any detergent, then washed in clean water, calcined and put into clean water again. After this, all that remains is to introduce the dye into the filler, mix and add acrylic resin with thorough stirring until the mixture has a homogeneous consistency. The solution may be usable within 20 minutes of being created, so again you will need to prepare small portions of the mixture.

You can use a wide variety of pigments, which are divided into mineral, synthetic, powder, liquid and many others. The type of each specific pigment depends on the mixture and the starting materials used. For example, liquid fillers should be added only when mixing the solution, while powdered pigment is excellent for adding to a dry mixture. Some pigments are available in the form of a thick paste-like substance. By adding this dye with a syringe at the very end, you can achieve a spotted or striped color of the stone.

Finally, we note that the choice of material for artificial stone is also determined by the finishing requirements. For example, acrylic materials are best suited for interior decoration, and durable concrete stone, characterized by excellent moisture-resistant properties, will be an ideal option for external walls and ceilings.

Natural stones have always been the favorite material of most landscape designers and country property owners who want to give their garden area more exclusivity and style. However, natural granite, sandstone, slate or lemezite, which are most often used for cladding, are expensive and heavy.

Fortunately, today it is not necessary to buy expensive material, because almost anyone can make an artificial stone with their own hands, fortunately, there are many methods for making such decorative elements and they all begin with creating a form.

Matrix for artificial stone

Of course, a ready-made kit for creating decorative products can be found in the store, but since we are talking about making artificial stone with our own hands, we will not take the simple route and consider producing a form from scratch.

Healthy! You should not buy cheap plastic dies, as they will break after the first workpiece.

To do this, you will need formwork; a box made of plywood or an ordinary box is suitable for it. Its size should exceed the finished sample by 10-15 mm in width and 25-30 mm in height. If you plan to create small artificial stones with your own hands, then an ordinary juice box will suffice.

When the formwork is prepared, it’s time to move on to pouring it, so that in the future you will have a finished form. Most often, silicone or compound is used to create it.

Silicone

Silicone sealant is the most accessible and cheapest material for making molds, which has excellent technical characteristics. It is sold both in tubes and in buckets; all that remains is to decide on the dimensions of the products.

To make silicone molds for artificial stone with your own hands you will need:

• Apply any type of grease to the inner walls of the formwork (solid oil will also work).
• Place the original sample on the bottom of the box, the shape of which is most suitable for the future “creation”. It could be granite, wood, or any object at all.
• Lubricate the “source” with a greasy substance to make it easier to remove from the formwork.
• Prepare a soap solution (dishwashing detergent will also work) and soak the brushes that will be used to apply the silicone in it.
• Fill the formwork with material and level it with a spatula, which must also be pre-moistened in soap.
• Wait until the composition hardens.

Important! If you use ready-made gypsum stone as a starting sample, then before work you must cover it with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

The intensity of silicone polymerization depends on how much material was poured into the formwork. Typically, sealants harden at a rate of 2 mm per day, therefore, if you want to make artificial stone of large dimensions, then you should not rush to remove the matrix from the formwork.

After the mold has completely hardened, it can be removed from the box and thoroughly washed to remove grease.

Compound

When deciding how to make an artificial stone, some give preference to specialized compounds used to create casting matrices.

Polyurethane compounds consist of two components, so the finished products are more durable and have better physical properties. Professionals often use such compositions for casting plaster parts for sculptures.

To prepare a “template” of artificial stone at home from a compound:

• Treat the model and formwork twice with wax, previously dissolved in white spirit or a specialized separating compound. Each layer of the composition should dry well for 25-30 minutes.
• Mix the components of the compound (paste and hardener) in a ratio of 2:1. Be sure to follow the exact proportions, otherwise the mixture will be uneven and harden unevenly.
• Carefully pour the prepared mixture into the box with the sample so that there is about 7-10 mm of liquid above the highest point of the model.
• Get rid of any air bubbles that may have formed during the mixing process. To do this, shake the box a little, wait 5-10 minutes and remove any bubbles that pop up with a spatula.

Healthy! To ensure that the components of the liquid are well mixed, it is recommended to use an electric drill with a mixer attachment.

The hardening time of the compound is 24 hours, regardless of its volume, but it is better to wait two days so that all the properties of the material are fully activated. After this, the base of the future stone can be poured into the “bowl”.

What to make artificial stone from

The composition of an artificial element can include a wide variety of materials, and their choice depends on the type of finishing for which the decorative element is made.

Cement (exterior finish)

For the base, artificial stone is usually made from cement mortar, which may also contain sand, fine gravel, stone chips and other components that give the finished product relief and a more natural structure.

To get a stone from cement you will need to follow several steps:

• Prepare a homogeneous sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 1:3.
• Pour half of the cement mixture into the matrix and compact it. To do this, simply knock on the walls of the box and shake it for 1 minute.
• Lay a metal mesh over the hardening material, which will give the future product more strength.
• Fill the matrix with the second layer to the top and run it with a thin stick or nail (the resulting grooves will improve adhesion).

The finished stone can be removed after 12 hours, but after this it is recommended to leave it for two weeks in a dry place so that it hardens completely.

Healthy! After each fill, be sure to thoroughly rinse the matrix.

This is a fairly simple method that does not require the use of specialized and expensive equipment.

Plaster (interior finishing)

For the manufacture of materials when finishing the interior walls of a house, it is worth giving preference to mixtures based on gypsum or alabaster. These materials are suitable if you need artificial brick for interior decoration or other decorative elements that imitate natural rocky surfaces.

To make gypsum stone:

• Prepare a mixture of gypsum G5 - G7, citric acid with a volume of 0.3% by weight of gypsum and water (60-70% of the volume of the base). It is also recommended to add 10% sand, which will make the composition stronger.
• Lubricate the matrix with wax, pour liquid gypsum into it and level it with a spatula.
• Place the corrugated glass on the surface of the gypsum material for 20 minutes so that the mixture is better compacted.
• Remove the mold and leave the homemade product outdoors until completely dry.

Despite the fact that this is a fairly simple way to create, for example, an artificial stone like a brick, it is worth noting the properties of gypsum. The fact is that this material hardens very quickly, so you should not prepare the mixture “for future use.” Although citric acid has properties that slow down this process, check several times that you have prepared everything you need for work and you will not have to leave.

In addition, there is modern technology for manufacturing artificial stone from polymer materials. Such products are suitable for both external cladding and interior decoration.

Acrylic

Decorating the facades and interior of a house with acrylic elements has a certain advantage - decorative products can be made in a matter of hours. But to obtain the desired consistency of the synthetic material, you will need the following components:

• acrylic resin (25%);
• filler or composite material (70%)
• hardener (2-5%).

After this, perform several “manipulations”:

• Mix all ingredients until smooth.
• Use a lubricant on the mold as acrylic is very sticky.
• Pour the mixture into the matrix.
• Leave the product to dry at a temperature of +25 degrees for 2 hours.
• Remove the finished stone.

Healthy! Acrylic is best suited for creating artificial marble with your own hands and other “noble” types.

After this, all that remains is to paint the artificial stones and decide where they will be placed.

Painting decorative stone

There are two ways to get colored stone. You can apply paint to a finished product, but in this case it will look less natural and will quickly fade.

It is best to add a coloring pigment during the process of pouring the material into the matrix. Moreover, this should not be a standard color that is used for walls, but an iron oxide inorganic dye.

Healthy! The best dyes that mix well with the solution are produced by a German companyHermannTerHell.

Before painting the future artificial stone, lubricate the matrix with pigment. Thanks to this, the color of the product will be heterogeneous and, accordingly, more realistic. It is also necessary to add coloring matter to the mixture during its preparation. Usually the pigment dosage is selected in the store, but if you do not have the opportunity to consult, then use:

• 2-6% by weight of the solution if you are using gypsum.
• 2-3% for cement.

In order not to “miss” with the desired shade, it is best to make a test pebble and only then do the main batch.

In custody

Making artificial marble, bricks and other decorative products does not take much time and does not require special preparation. By following the recommendations given in the article, everyone will be able to create unique elements that will decorate their garden plot and home.

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The construction business today is growing rapidly. The production of artificial stone at home is a profitable investment for those who want to open their own enterprise. Thanks to the latest technologies, it is not difficult to make decorative stone using an artisanal method today. The scope of its application is quite wide:

• landscape design;
• external cladding of buildings;
• interior decoration of premises;
• restoration of historical buildings.

Properties of artificial facing stone

Artificial stone is more profitable than its natural counterpart. It is stronger, cheaper and comes in a variety of colors.

Types of artificial stones

They can be used to design an interior of any stylistic direction. It has specific advantages over natural stone:

• It is environmentally friendly and hygienic, as it does not have scratches or microcracks on the surface, which contribute to the proliferation of harmful bacteria.
• Artificial stone is much lighter.
• Has high sound insulation.
• It is unpretentious: easy to install, easy to install.
• Retains all its positive qualities for a long time.

Decorative facing stone does not lose its properties under the influence of temperature changes, excess moisture in the atmosphere, or chemicals. It does not change color under the influence of ultraviolet rays. It also has high thermal conductivity - a quality that is very valuable when finishing interior surfaces of a room.

Classification of decorative stone

Depending on the production technology and the raw materials used, artificial stones come in several types. Some of them can only be produced in industrial enterprises. In artisanal conditions, decorative stone is produced from gypsum, cast acrylic and concrete (reinforced or molded) stone.

Artificial stone for external cladding, in particular reinforced concrete, is made from the following materials:

• sand;
• cement;
• fillers;
• colored mineral pigments;
• hardening accelerators;
• special plasticizers.

Concrete stone is used to make decorative cobblestones and boulders, which do not differ in appearance from natural ones, as well as for cladding the outside of buildings.

Artificial acrylic stone is made on the basis of acrylic resin with the addition of a composite material, hardener, and colored pigment. It is used for interior decoration in residential and public spaces. The disadvantage of this material is that it can be easily scratched.

But it is compensated by the ability to restore the glossy surface with simple polishing.

The composition of gypsum cast stone includes:

• gypsum;
• white cement;
• pozzolanic additions;
• oxide pigments.

Such additives make gypsum less brittle. It is used only for interior decoration, as it is not resistant to low temperatures.

Decorative gypsum tiles are environmentally friendly, practical to use, maintain natural humidity in the room, are also suitable for long-term use and are inexpensive.

DIY artificial stone

Organization of the workroom

Before starting the production of decorative stone, you should properly plan the upcoming work and think through options for marketing the products.

The production of gypsum tiles at home and other facing stones in small quantities can be done in a small room - a personal garage or barn. If you want to organize an enterprise on a larger scale, you need to select a building of a larger size and taking into account certain requirements.

• Renting premises. It is more profitable to rent a work space on the outskirts of the city - it is easier to find a spacious and inexpensive building here. In addition, you will not have to deliver products from the center to customers.
• Water. The manufacture of artificial building material requires significant use of water. Therefore, you should rent a room near water wells or a water treatment plant. In such conditions, process water will be much cheaper when purchased, and its delivery to the place of stone production will cost minimally.
• Heating. Heating is not required for the warehouse space. If the finished product warehouse is located outside, it is necessary to make a rain shelter over it. The temperature of the main room reserved for the production of decorative stone must be positive so that the water necessary for work does not freeze. In a place specially designated for drying the stone, you must constantly maintain 30 degrees of heat and dry air. Rooms for auxiliary workers are also heated. We must not forget about ventilation in the room.
• Wiring. An important point is proper electrical wiring. When producing stone, a lot of electricity is consumed. Therefore, electrical wires must be in perfect condition and of the required size so that equipment breakdown or fire does not occur in this enterprise.

Faulty electrical wiring can lead to irreversible consequences

The production of stone in large quantities requires the recruitment of working personnel - at least two people: a technologist and an auxiliary worker.

Before starting a business, it should be registered with the relevant authorities.

Equipment and work tools

To make artificial stone at home, you need equipment and various tools, which are purchased depending on the scale of production. A small volume of decorative stone can be made using a vat, a drill-mixer, a trowel and self-made molds. For example, you can make your own plaster tiles.

Special equipment for the production of artificial stone on a large scale includes:

• Vibrating table It is used to compact the material by removing air bubbles from it.
• Vibrator - for moving the vibrating table.
• Vibrating conveyor for moving bulk materials.
• Concrete mixer and mortar mixer for mixing water and dry material until smooth.
• Elastic silicone or stone molds. A varied assortment is obtained by using various forms in production.

Silicone mold for making artificial stone

But you also need tools and other work equipment:

• work tables;
• drill with a special attachment for mixing;
• boxes for finished stone;
• scales;
• racks with pallets;
• drying chambers;
• forklift for transporting goods;
• container for coloring pigment;
• pallets;
• vibrating sieve

Technological process

The technology for producing artificial stone is divided into two types.

The first is vibrocompression. This method is characterized by low cost of goods and fully mechanized production. This technology is suitable for the production of a large number of products.

The second method is vibration casting. Its advantages are inexpensive equipment, high-quality surfaces, a large selection of products, and the rich color of artificial stone. Vibratory casting technology is appropriate for the production of medium quantities of products.

The technological process includes several sequential actions:

• Creation of a master model. To get started, three pieces are enough.
• Preparation of forms. There should be at least ten of them if you need to get different textures, since each of the forms is used only once a day.
• Prepare a mixture of the required components by mixing them in a mortar mixer until smooth.
• Pouring the resulting mixture into molds.
• Compact the solution on a vibrating table for at least two minutes. Thus, air is expelled from the solution.
• For several hours (8-10) at a temperature of 30 degrees, the solution in the molds is in the dryer until it hardens. Then it is transferred to a room with normal temperature and humidity for two days.
• The molds with the frozen mixture are transferred to a special work table and the products are separated from them. Then high-quality finished products are selected, placed on pallets and sent to the warehouse.
• At the end of the work, the molds are washed with acid to remove any remaining solution.

Acid for cleaning solution residues

The production of gypsum tiles has some differences from the production of other types of artificial stone:

• casting molds - small in size and weight;
• a vibrating table is not used for production;
• the process of painting the finished stone is quite simple and inexpensive;
• ready-made gypsum mixture has a low price.

Producing decorative stone is quite simple and profitable. A competent approach to the enterprise and excellent product quality will make your income high and stable.

Video: Making stone from gypsum at home

You can make artificial stone at home with your own hands. The popularity of this material is due to its attractive appearance and variety of textures. Decorative stone is successfully used for cladding external and internal surfaces, and it looks equally good on large areas and on individual surfaces. Artificial stone is good for decorating arches, doorways, corners in hallways, balconies, fireplaces and stoves.

At the moment, for many, the production of artificial stone has become not only a hobby, but also a profitable business. This stone makes it possible to create various architectural forms and at the same time it is safe for humans. The structure of gypsum as a finely ground material allows you to create various textures and reliefs. In addition, this material has good sound and heat insulation properties, it is not flammable and fire resistant. Gypsum is a “breathable” material and it regulates the level of humidity in the room. Such unique features of this material make it possible to create a favorable microclimate in the house. Another advantage of gypsum-based stone is its lightness, which makes it possible to veneer light and thin partitions and walls with this material.

Walls lined with artificial stone are easy to clean and do not absorb dust and dirt, which allows this material to be used in rooms with high health and sanitary requirements.

The only limitation for the use of artificial stone made from gypsum is the finishing of external surfaces, since gypsum is not resistant to frost and can collapse.

The production of artificial stone from gypsum does not require large expenditures of money and effort, and therefore pays off in the shortest possible time. Home production of gypsum stone is profitable and promising, provided that certain technical requirements are met and high-quality raw materials are used. Now it is not profitable to use natural gypsum alone, since such products are not highly reliable and durable. It is better to use compositions using modified gypsum, which, while maintaining all the positive qualities of natural gypsum, have greater strength.

Making artificial stone with your own hands

Natural decorative stone is very expensive, so artificial stone made from gypsum or cement with the addition of various coloring pigments and polymer materials is often used. Such a stone can be made at home, and it is quite simple to do.

To make it, you will need a plastic container for mixing the solution, plaster (preferably white), molds and a tray for them, a drill with an attachment, a table and film to protect it, corrugated glass for covering the molds, and water-based dyes.

Before you start making artificial stone at home, you need to prepare your workplace. These works do not require a large space, and a couple of square meters will be enough for one person. A work table is required, and it is also desirable that there are racks and shelves nearby on which forms, finished products, coloring pigments, plaster and containers for water and bulk materials can be placed.

Particular attention should be paid to the forms for making stone. They can be made from plastic, silicone, metal and even wood, but harder materials are not entirely suitable, since plaster is able to reproduce the smallest curves of the relief, and plastic or wooden forms will not be able to convey such texture. The best option is silicone molds - flexible and soft.

After equipping the workplace, you can begin preparing materials for work. Typically, a mixture of mineral gypsum and anhydrite is used as the starting material. This material becomes the basis of the gypsum “test” - a composition obtained by mixing the powder with clean water.

First, water is poured into a plastic container and white gypsum is added to it, continuously stirring the solution. Even if in your opinion the solution is thick, you should not dilute it with water, since tiles made from too liquid gypsum are fragile and take a very long time to dry. There should be exactly enough of this “dough” to fill the molds at one time, since the mixture prepared for a long time will not be able to stand and will begin to harden. The gypsum mixture is prepared in two steps. The ratio of gypsum and water must be selected independently, and to increase the strength of the artificial stone, you can add about 10% sand or other similar filler.

Silicone or plastic molds are coated with a special release agent, which makes it easy to remove the stone after drying. You can prepare this composition yourself by mixing wax in turpentine in a ratio of 3:7. The composition is prepared in a water bath, and once ready, applied in a thin layer with a brush and rubbed with a cloth over the surface of the mold.

After this, the forms are coated with a thin layer of liquid plaster using a flat brush. This avoids the formation of shells on the stone.

The molds are placed on a pallet so that after pouring the plaster, it is convenient to shake it to remove air bubbles.

Coloring pigments are mixed with a certain amount of gypsum in separate containers and different shades are poured into molds, imitating the heterogeneous color of natural stone.

Then the bulk of the gypsum is poured. They level it over the surface of the mold, cover the mold with corrugated glass and gently shake the containers with plaster to evenly distribute the mass, making smooth circular movements. This process takes about two minutes.

After the glass can be freely separated from the mold (usually the plaster hardens for 15-20 minutes), the product can be carefully removed and dried in air. Silicone molds are quite flexible. Therefore, artificial stone can be removed from them without any problems. Heat treatment of artificial stone is not carried out. Because this worsens the performance characteristics of gypsum products.

Do-it-yourself artificial stone. Video

Production of decorative stone

Wild stone - do it yourself

Cladding the base of a house, façade and interior walls with stone is becoming increasingly popular. And this is not at all surprising, since such a design not only protects surfaces from mechanical damage and contamination, but also becomes spectacular. But the problem is that natural stone has considerable mass and creates significant additional loads on wall structures. In addition, working with it is quite difficult, and the cost of such finishing often becomes a reason to abandon this approach.

There is a way out - to use artificial stone for such purposes. It is lighter in weight and easy to process, so it is not so difficult to work with, fixing it to surfaces. Artificial stone is an excellent substitute for natural stone, and it can be used not only for wall decoration, but also for cladding flower beds and fountains, as well as for laying out garden paths.

It is also important that this finishing material has a very affordable price. But in order to achieve even more significant savings, many owners with a creative streak are asking the fair question of how to make artificial stone with their own hands at home. This possibility exists, and making this material is not so difficult if you prepare everything that is required to prepare the solution, as well as to create forms with the desired relief of the future “stone”.

What is artificial stone?

Before we begin to describe the manufacturing technologies of this finishing material, you should understand what it is and what it consists of.

Artificial stone can be made from various materials, which are selected depending on which wall will be decorated with it - façade or interior.

Thus, for interior decoration, stone is often made from gypsum, and for exterior decoration, it is made from cement mortar with various additives. The list of such additives includes materials that give the finished stone a relief pattern - this can be fine gravel, sand, stone chips and other components. In addition, to give the artificial stone the desired shades, dry or diluted coloring pigments are prepared. If several of them will be used, it is important to select them in such a way that they are harmoniously combined with each other.

In order for the finishing stone to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary to prepare a good form for it. By making the appropriate purchase or doing it yourself once, you can produce the required amount of stone that will be used to transform your house or garden.

You should not buy a cheap plastic mold, as it may break after the first batch of stones made. The best option would be a matrix made of silicone, as it will last a long time and help produce as much finishing material as needed.

Making molds for artificial stone

In specialized stores you can find ready-made kits for making this finishing material, which simplifies the work even more, but for any owner it is quite possible to make the forms yourself.

The condition for successful work is a high-quality matrix mold

For example, a certain design of a particular surface is planned, but the stone that is optimally suited for this style is too expensive, or it was not possible to select the desired shade option at all. In this case, you can purchase one or several tiles of store-bought artificial stone, and make the necessary shapes based on the purchased samples.

In addition, a real stone with a textured pattern you like, which cannot be found in stores, can be taken as the basis for the template.

Prices for artificial stone Monte

artificial stone Monte

It is not necessary to use stone or tile as a “source” for making a matrix. Often, for this purpose, wood with a beautiful textured pattern is taken, which is first deepened.

Forms can be single or complex. The former are much easier to do than the latter, since they do not require oversized formwork and the use of large amounts of silicone. However, it should immediately be noted that in the future it will become easier and faster to produce the artificial stone itself with a complex version of the matrix, because the output will be several finished products at once.

In any case, for the formwork you will have to find a ready-made or self-made plywood box or cardboard box. This element should have dimensions 10÷15 mm wider and 25÷30 mm higher than the original sample, according to which the mold will be made. If the stone must have very small dimensions, then even an ordinary juice box, cut off from one of the wide sides, will be suitable for formwork. It has enough rigidity to withstand silicone pouring.

You can do it differently by connecting several juice boxes together, maintaining a distance of 10 ÷ 12 mm between them. But at the same time, this gap must be hermetically closed, as it will become walls between future forms.

Next, you can proceed to preparing the initial sample and embedding material. It can be used as silicone sealant, polyurethane, or a compound specially designed for such purposes, consisting of two components.

Silicone mold

Silicone sealant is sold in tubes or buckets, and you need to purchase the amount of material that is needed to make the mold.

• When the formwork is ready, any greasy lubricant is applied to its inner walls - it can even be ordinary grease.
• Next, the initial element is placed on the bottom of the formwork - it can be natural stone, tiles with smooth surfaces, a ready-made version of artificial stone, a board or other object from which the form will be made.
• Then, the object placed in the formwork is also lubricated with a greasy substance - this must be done so that the silicone can be easily removed after it hardens.

An important point should be noted here - if a ready-made artificial stone made of gypsum is used as the initial sample, then it is first coated with two to three layers of varnish or drying oil, each of which must be well dried.

• The next step is to prepare a soap solution, which is necessary to wet the brush and spatula used when laying out and distributing the silicone inside the formwork.

• If silicone is purchased in a tube, then it is completely squeezed out into the formwork, and then, dipping a brush in a soapy solution, it is distributed inside the box. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the silicone fits tightly, without the formation of air pockets, to the stone sample, which is laid on the bottom of the formwork. To do this, the laid out composition is not simply smoothed with a brush, but compacted.

Sequence of manufacturing a silicone matrix - continued

• Having filled the formwork to the required level, the surface of the silicone is leveled with a spatula, which is also wetted in a soap solution.
• After the work is completed, the formwork with silicone is left to polymerize.

There is no need to rush to remove the mold - the longer it sits untouched, the better the quality of the matrix, the more cycles of artificial stone production it will withstand. Polymerization proceeds from the outer surfaces deep into the silicone, and as a guide, its speed can be taken as 2 mm of thickness per day. So the process of complete hardening of the forms can take from several days or even several weeks, depending on the depth and thickness of the fill. Therefore, if you decide to start making artificial stone at a certain time, for example, in the summer months, then you should take care of preparing matrices for this in advance.

Upon expiration of the estimated period, the formwork is removed from the structure. The resulting form is carefully removed and washed from grease, and only after that it will be ready for further use.

The table presented shows the main technical characteristics of silicone sealant that must be taken into account when making a matrix for artificial stone from it:

	Normal values	Results shown during testing
Time of formation of the surface film after squeezing the sealant out of the tube (minutes), no more.	30	5÷25
Viability of the composition (hours), no more.	8	6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less	0.1	0.4÷0.6
Elongation at break (%), not less.	300	400÷600
Flow resistance (mm), no more.	2	0÷1
Water absorption by mass (%) no more.	1	0.35÷0.45
Density (kg/m³), no more.	1200	1100÷1200
Durability, conventional years, no less.	20	20

Compound matrices

Specialized stores also sell special compounds intended for the manufacture of injection molds. The characteristics of one of these compositions from the domestic manufacturer Tekhnologiya-Plast LLC, under the name Silagerm 5035, can be considered in more detail.

This polyurethane compound, consisting of two components, is intended specifically for making molds. Moreover, when using such specialized compositions, matrices are obtained with excellent physical characteristics and a long service life.

Silagerm 5035 can be used not only in the production of molds for artificial stone, but also for the production of matrices intended for casting sculptures or architectural details from gypsum and other building materials.

Molding polyurethane compound “Silagerm 5035” is available in beige color and has different hardness parameters - 40 and 30 units. according to Shor's table.

The main physical and technical characteristics of Silagerm 5035 are given in the table:

Main indicators of the material	Shore hardness 30±3	Shore hardness 40±3
Time of formation of the surface film after mixing the components (minutes), no more	40÷50	40÷50
Viability (minutes), no more	60÷120	60÷120
Conditional tensile strength (MPa), not less	3.0÷4.5	3.5÷5.0
Elongation at break (%), not less	450÷600	400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more	1	0.8
Viscosity (centipoise, cP).	3000÷3500	3000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1.03±0.02	1.07±0.02

The time for complete hardening of the finished mixture is only 24 hours.

In order for the mold to last as long as possible, before filling it with a solution of gypsum or cement, it is recommended to lubricate its internal surface with a special release agent “Tiprom 90”.

The Silagerm 5035 compound is sold in 1.5 and 7.5 kg buckets.

Manufacturing a matrix using a special compound “Poly 74-29”»

« Poly 74-29"- this compound from a German manufacturer is available in several versions, which are determined by a digital marking code. The last digits of this designation indicate such a parameter as the hardness of the material after the form hardens.

The special German-made compound “Poly 74-29” has earned excellent reviews from matrix manufacturers.

Below in the table for interested readers there will be step-by-step instructions for making a matrix from this compound

Illustration
	To work in this case, the master prepared the following tools and materials - these are product templates from which the mold will be removed, plastic sandwich panels for assembling formwork 15÷20 mm thick, double-sided tape, technical petroleum jelly, a brush 12÷15 mm wide, stationery knife, soft cloth, plasticine and ruler-level. It should be noted here that any other material that has high strength and a smooth surface can be used for formwork. Vaseline can also be replaced by any other similar lubricant that is inert to polyurethane.
	Any material with the texture pattern, shape and thickness you like can be taken as initial samples for making the matrix. In this case, natural stones of different sizes and shapes were chosen as a model. Their artificial analogue can subsequently be used for both interior and exterior decoration.
	The first step is to make formwork, which should have the size of the future matrix. The bottom of the formwork is laid on a flat surface of the work table. In this case, it is a cut fragment from a PVC sandwich panel.
	Selected samples are laid out on the surface of the bottom part of the future box-shaped structure. The stones must be located at a distance of no less than 10 and no more than 20 mm from each other, since this distance will be the thickness of the walls between the individual sectors of the same matrix. In addition, it is necessary to immediately take into account the thickness of the walls that will be installed around the perimeter of the bottom of the formwork. Stones should also be removed from the walls at a distance of 10÷15 mm.
	Next, the location of the stones is marked on the bottom surface with a marker. This is done so that after removing them and applying glue, return them to their original place and maintain the already specified distance between them, and therefore the thickness of the future walls.
	Then the stones are temporarily removed, since they need to be fixed to the bottom surface using glue-sealant or double-sided construction tape. The second option is much easier to implement than the first. If this method of fixation is used, then it is best to stick the tape onto the surface of the bottom of the formwork.
	If glue is used, it should be applied to the central side of the lower surface of the stone in a relatively thin layer, as it should in no case protrude over the edges.
	After gluing the samples, gaps of varying thickness will inevitably remain between the surface of the base and the stone. They must be carefully sealed. This sealing will prevent liquid polyurethane compound from getting under the stones.
	These gaps can be sealed with plasticine, which is rolled out into a thin strip.
	Then the resulting plasticine rope is laid around the perimeter of the junction of the stone with the base. First, the plastic mass is distributed with your fingers, and then finally smoothed with a stack. Instead of this material, a sealant can be used, which is applied in a thin strip, also at the joint, and then spread with a finger moistened with a thick soap solution. However, in this case you will have to wait until the silicone sealant sets well.
	However, whatever material is used for this process, it should not extend beyond the shape of the stone.
	It is recommended to cover the surface of the glued initial samples with technical petroleum jelly, wax dissolved in white spirit, or use a special release wax lubricant for this purpose. If this is not done, or this process is carried out poorly, then in untreated areas, the polyurethane will definitely stick to the stone, which means the matrix form can be hopelessly damaged. Such coating should cover all areas of the stone, down to the smallest details of the relief, that is, it should be carried out with special diligence.
	When the stones are securely fixed and processed accordingly, formwork walls are installed around them, which must be raised from the bottom to two heights of the stone. The walls of the formwork can be tightened with clamps (as in the option under consideration) or twisted at the corners with self-tapping screws - it all depends on the material they are made of and the availability of the necessary fastening tools and devices.
	In addition to clamps, a special belt is used to tighten the formwork structure. It will additionally connect the bottom of the formwork with the walls.
	The finished formwork box must be well insulated from the inside, covering the joints between the bottom and walls, as well as the gaps at the corners. This process can also be carried out using plasticine, rolling it into strips and distributing it in the desired areas.
	Further, it is recommended to treat the entire internal space of the formwork and the stones themselves, fixed on its bottom part, with one of the release agents (anti-adhesive). In this case, the composition “Pol-Ease2300” was used.
	After all the formwork inside has been processed, it needs to be thoroughly dried, and only then can the compound be poured into it. The release agent will ensure effective separation of the original images and formwork walls from the molding polyurethane and will ensure easy removal of the finished matrix. The same compositions are used in the manufacture of artificial stones, only in this case, it is applied to the matrix before pouring the concrete or gypsum mixture into it.
	The prepared formwork box should be checked for horizontal installation. The entire resulting structure must stand perfectly level, otherwise the compound will flow to one side, and the shape will be uneven, and this, in turn, means that the stones will have a skewed lower surface, which will complicate their subsequent installation on the wall when finishing.
	Next, the composition for pouring into the formwork is prepared. In this case, the compound of the German manufacturer “Poly 74-29” is used. This composition is suitable for the manufacture of matrix molds that will be used for pouring cement or gypsum mortars into them. Different colors are given to the material for making matrices by adding a color pigment to it. Complete polymerization of this product occurs after 16-24 hours, and its “lifetime” after mixing is only 30 minutes at an average temperature of +25 degrees. Therefore, when using this compound, you will have to act very quickly, and mix it immediately before pouring. The compound is two-component. The working composition is prepared in 1:1 proportions and thoroughly mixed until smooth.
	The ingredients can be mixed using a spatula or a mixer attachment installed in an electric drill - the tool is selected depending on the amount of mass to be kneaded. Using a mixer for preparation, turn on the electric drill at low speed so that the resulting mixture does not become too porous due to a large number of air bubbles. If the components of the compound are not completely used, then their remains in standard containers should be tightly closed with lids.
	Next, the resulting mass is very carefully poured into the prepared form. Another option is to apply it layer by layer using a spatula, but the latter method is more complicated, since for it the proportions of the components must be calculated separately. If the compound will be poured into a small mold, it is recommended to knead it manually, kneading it until the mass is completely homogeneous. The finished composition is slowly poured into the formwork so as not to “catch” air bubbles so that the thickness of the fill above the highest point of the original sample is from 7 to 10 mm.
	After the mixture is poured into the box, you must try to rid it of any remaining air bubbles. To do this, you need to carefully move the box back and forth, shaking it slightly, and repeat this several times. Then you need to let the formwork with the filled solution sit for 5-10 minutes, and then carefully remove any air bubbles from the surface of the mass using a spatula.
	The mold is left for a day until the compound has completely hardened. It is not recommended to remove it from models before, since all the declared qualities are still gained within 72 hours. Therefore, after removing the matrix from the original sample, it must be kept for another two days without operation. So there’s no need to rush. After this time, the matrix form will be suitable for filling with a solution with temperatures up to +80÷120 degrees. Before removing the formwork elements from the matrix, it is recommended to spray “Pol-Ease2300” on its entire internal surface, as well as the bottom of the finished frozen form - this will make it easier to separate the walls from the polyurethane.
	A day later, first the tightening belt is removed from the box-shaped formwork structure, and then the clamps.
	Then they pass along the outer edges of the frozen form with a spatula, that is, they try to separate the polyurethane from the surfaces of the walls. After such an operation, the walls should easily separate from the matrix.
	The last stage of work, for the sake of which all the processes described above were carried out, is the removal of the finished form from the original stone samples.
	To do this, carefully pick up the edge of the matrix and then slowly remove it completely. As you can see, with high-quality preliminary preparation of formwork and stone samples, no traces of the polyurethane compound remain on them.
	Now, having treated the mold with the selected anti-adhesive, you can begin making artificial stone from the material that is most convenient for you, taking into account, of course, the purpose of the prepared finish.

Video: example of making a mold for artificial stone from a silicone-polyurethane compound

Manufacturing of artificial stone

As mentioned above, it can be made from different materials, but in this section the production of two options will be considered, one of which is used for interior decoration, and the second for decorating the facade.

Artificial stone based on gypsum

Artificial gypsum stone is most often used for finishing interior walls, but with proper processing and impregnation, it is also suitable for some facade surfaces.

It should be said that gypsum is more popular for creating artificial stone than cement. It is easier to give this material the desired shade; after hardening, it is slightly lighter than products made from a cement composition, and has better adhesion to wall surfaces.

To make gypsum artificial stone, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Matrix form made of elastic material.
• Electric drill with mixer attachment.
• A container for mixing ingredients - this can be an ordinary plastic bucket.
• Tray for drying tiles.
• Brushes.
• Spatulas.
• White plaster.
• Washed river sand.
• Citric acid and PVA glue.
• Composition of wax and turpentine.
• Water at room temperature.
• Dry coloring pigment of the desired shade.

To carry out the work, it is necessary to prepare a small work area equipped with a workbench, the surface of which is leveled horizontally using a level, otherwise you may end up with tiles of different thicknesses.

If a large amount of finishing material is produced at once, then racks will be needed for final drying of the products, which should take place over several days.

Prices for artificial stone White Hills

artificial stone White Hills

And, of course, you need free space where the solution will be mixed.

When preparing gypsum molding mixture, a number of important nuances should be taken into account:

• Gypsum is added to the water, and not vice versa, otherwise the mass will turn out heterogeneous, with lumps and inclusions.
• It is important to remember that gypsum sets very quickly, literally within 5-7 minutes. Therefore, if there is a need to extend its hardening time, citric acid is added to the solution at the rate of 0.6-0.8 g of crystalline composition per 1 kg of gypsum. By adding this ingredient to the mass, you can extend the liquid state of the gypsum solution for up to one and a half hours. Citric acid is diluted in warm water, then, when mixed, added to the solution.
• If the solution will be poured into a single mold, then the mass must be prepared in small quantities.
• Sand is added to the solution to strengthen the finished product. The size of its fraction (from 0.01 to 1 mm) will depend on which model of artificial stone is chosen.
• The mixture after mixing should have the consistency of thick but flowing sour cream.
• The composition is assembled in different proportions, but usually 100 grams of sand are added to 1 kg of gypsum.
• PVA glue is added to the mixture as a plasticizer. By the way, just like citric acid, it can somewhat extend the setting time of the mixture.
• Gypsum and water are taken in proportions of 1.5:1, and this liter also includes the water in which citric acid is diluted.
• The required amount of water is poured into a clean bucket. Further, if a dry coloring pigment is added to the solution, then it is immediately added to the water and mixed well.
• The next step is to pour a measured amount of gypsum into the water and mix the solution again with a mixer.
• Then sand is added to the solution and mixed again.

Before mixing the molding solution, it is necessary to prepare the matrix. If it is made of silicone or plastic, then it must be coated with a special composition consisting of turpentine and wax (or a special release agent). If the mold is made of polyurethane, then it does not require special preparation, although lubricant will still not be superfluous.

“Skala” is one of the popular types of artificial stone, used both for cladding facade walls and plinths, and for interior decoration. A similar imitation is applied to the entire surface or only individual sections of the walls. This artificial stone is well suited for many interior styles, so this type of cladding almost never goes out of fashion.

Find out several options on how to do it from a new article on our portal.

If the matrix form is made independently or purchased, then, having prepared the work table, you can proceed to the process of creating an artificial stone.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	This silicone mold for making artificial stone “Rock” consists of five large and five small compartments. The convenience of such a matrix is ​​that you can make the required number of large or small stones separately, or make ten tiles of different sizes at once.
	To make a mixture for pouring into such a matrix, you will need some building materials. It is advisable that the recommended proportions be followed exactly, otherwise the products may turn out fragile, crumble and absorb moisture excessively. So, the solution will require five kilograms of GVVS-16 gypsum, which must be weighed, since the hardening time and plasticity of the solution will depend on the exact amount of this material.
	In addition to gypsum, you will need coarse dry sand - one and a half kilograms, as well as clean water - two liters. These ingredients also need to be measured accurately, because their quantity also affects the quality of the finishing material to a certain extent. To make the stone more picturesque, the water should be colored by adding 30 grams of black and 45 grams of yellow special coloring powder.
	Separately, you need to prepare 400 ml of water, into which a pinch of citric acid is poured, and then the solution is mixed. Citric acid must be completely dissolved, otherwise its grains may also negatively affect the solution.
	While the acid is diluted in water, using a mixer attachment installed in an electric drill, the water with the color added to it is mixed, since it must also dissolve and give a certain color scheme to the “stone” being created.
	The next step is to pour sand into the plaster, and then thoroughly mix this dry mixture, also using a mixer, with the drill set at low speed.
	The next step is to add water mixed with citric acid to the bucket with the tinted solution. The result is 2.4 liters of liquid on which the molding solution will be mixed. Then the colored water needs to be mixed well again.
	Next, the solution is poured into a bucket with a gypsum-sand mixture and thoroughly mixed to ensure a homogeneous state. This process should last at least 5÷7 minutes.
	As a result, the mass ready for pouring into the matrix should be quite liquid and look approximately as shown in the illustration.
	Now we need to do a little work on the silicone matrix. In order for the stone to have several shades, that is, to be picturesque and as close as possible to natural colors, the shape also needs to be slightly tinted.
	For tinting, dry pigmenting powder is used, which is applied with a soft brush to individual areas of the form, selectively. It is necessary to take into account that in order to maintain the authenticity of the imitation, the coloring composition is applied not only to the bottom of the mold, but also to the edges of the relief. To make the finishing material more picturesque, you can use several different shades, but they must be in harmony with each other.
	You should not paint over too large areas of the form, as the finished stone will lose its natural effect. The main color should remain the color that was given to the molding solution. After the dry pigment has been applied to the form, the excess must be shaken off. To do this, the matrix is ​​turned over and shaken off - this procedure will help not only get rid of excess powder, but also distribute it evenly over areas of the mold.
	Next, the form is installed on a flat work table, on which it is recommended to lay a sheet of plywood, the same size as the silicone matrix. The solution is poured into the mold, first in small portions, and it is laid out in each compartment separately. This amount of mass will be better distributed along the bottom of the mold, filling all the deepest places of the relief.
	Then, the form along with the plywood stand is lifted by one edge and shaken several times. With this vibration effect, the solution spreads in the compartments of the mold, tightly filling all the folds of the relief.
	When the first batch of mass has settled, the rest of the solution is laid out on top of it. Most often, the remainder of the solution already has a thicker consistency, so it turns out that the gypsum-sand mass protrudes from above the edges of the matrix, that is, “with a slide.”
	Since the solution contains gypsum, it will begin to thicken very soon, so everything needs to be done fairly quickly. Having laid out the rest of the solution, it should be settled again, no longer lifting the form, but moving it sharply with the help of plywood placed under it, grabbing the sides of this stand.
	Then, using a spatula, you need to quickly remove the solution protruding above the walls of the mold and distribute it evenly across all compartments.
	Distribution is carried out until each of the departments is completely filled with gypsum-sand mass. During the distribution process, the mold should be shaken periodically.
	The surface of the solution is compared with the edges of the matrix also using a spatula. This process will not be difficult to carry out if a spatula is used for it, having a width greater than the distance between the walls of the compartments.
	When finishing leveling, use a spatula to thoroughly clean the upper part of the walls and partitions between the individual compartments, the so-called paths, from the mortar. This must be done carefully so that after the solution has hardened, it is easy to remove the mold from the finished products. After filling the matrix, it is recommended to immediately clean and wash all the tools from any remaining solution, otherwise, if it hardens, it will be quite difficult to return the working surfaces of the spatulas to normal condition.
	After 20÷25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the future products, you can check the solidification of the solution. The check is done by hand, and the heat emanating from the hardening tile should be clearly felt. The fact is that when gypsum is mixed with water and the solution sets, a certain chemical exothermic reaction occurs, accompanied by the release of thermal energy.
	The next step is to take another sheet of plywood, also cut to the size of the mold - it covers the matrix on top of the poured blocks. Then the bottom backing, the silicone mold and the top plywood sheet are grabbed at once. Then the entire structure is turned over so that the bottom of the mold is on top.
	The plywood that originally served as the backing is removed. Well, then, grabbing the matrix from the corner, it is carefully removed from the molded products. The finished “stones” remain on the plywood sheet.
	After the matrix form is removed, it must be inspected - it must be clean, without any residual solution. As a rule, coloring pigment remains in the folds of the relief, but if a batch of finishing stone is made, usually the same areas are tinted before each pour, so this is not critical.
	The next step is sorting the finished products. If suddenly a tile is discovered that has certain flaws, they are put aside for now. Perhaps it will be useful for cladding on peripheral, least noticeable areas of finishing.
	At the end of the work, the finished “stones” can be laid out in different configurations, achieving a uniform distribution of tinted areas over the entire surface. In this way, it will be easier to form a certain pattern from them than to carry out this procedure on the wall, already during the cladding process.

Additionally, the color can be applied to ready-made “stones”. In this case, painting is done using brushes of different widths, and it is not necessary to paint even, neat strokes, since the more chaotic they are, the more picturesque and natural the color of the stone imitation will turn out.

At the final stage, the painted “stones” can be coated with a special matte varnish for external work. You should not use varnish with a glossy effect, as such a finish will look unnatural. If the facing tiles will be used in a dry room, then covering them with a protective varnish is an optional condition.

A finishing material made from a gypsum-sand mixture is quite popular and is widely used for decorating interiors and facades. Such tiles are not used for laying paths, as well as fountains and fireplaces. For the design of these elements, artificial stone made from cement-based mass is more suitable. More on this in the next section of the publication.

Video: example of casting artificial stone on a gypsum basis

Artificial stone made from cement-based mortar

A cement-based composition opens up wider possibilities, since artificial stone made from it can be used in any area of ​​design of a suburban area, including for laying out garden paths or constructing an alpine slide.

To make an artificial stone from concrete, the tools you will need are the same as for gypsum mortar, and the following materials need to be prepared:

• Gray cement M200÷M400 or Portland cement.
• River washed sand.
• PVA glue as a plasticizer, but you can do without it.
• Coloring pigments.

The workplace, just as in the first case, must be equipped with a level table with a horizontal surface. Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the production of finishing materials.

It should be noted that artificial stone from cement mortar can be made in different ways. For example, if the stones imitate cobblestones on an alpine hill or in a flower garden, then they will do without a silicone mold at all. Further, both manufacturing methods will be discussed in the publication, but the composition for both options is made approximately the same.

The molding solution is made up of sand and cement in proportions 3:1. The components are mixed dry, and then water is added to the mixture in small portions, and the composition is mixed again using a mixer. This continues until the solution reaches the desired consistency and homogeneity. If you want to make the solution more plastic, PVA glue is added to it. You need to take about 50 grams per liter of cement-sand mixture.

During the mixing process, a coloring pigment is added to the mixture if it is intended to change the color of the cement or introduce any tint inclusions into it. The amount of pigment can only be determined experimentally, that is, adding it little by little and mixing, achieving the desired shade of the entire solution or its layers.

The first option is artificial stone for paving paths or for finishing walls

To begin with, we will consider the process of making stone for decorating garden paths. However, material for finishing walls is also made in the same way; it’s just that for paths they usually make blocks with a flat surface or with a shallow relief in depth.

• The prepared form is filled with the prepared solution, which must be shaken periodically, moving back and forth, so that the mixture completely fills the entire relief. When the matrix is ​​filled, a medium-width or wide spatula is passed along its surface, collecting excess solution and cleaning the upper sides of the partitions between the individual matrices, if the filling is carried out in a common mold. In this case, the walls will serve as a kind of beacons for leveling the poured solution.
• If artificial stones of large size are made, that is, a single deep matrix is ​​poured, then only half of its depth is initially filled with solution. Then a reinforcing mesh or rods is placed on top of the poured mixture, and only then the mold is filled with the mixture to the top, and the mass is leveled along the top edge.
• When the cement mixture has set but still retains its plasticity, a lattice-shaped hatch is applied to its surface using a nail. It is necessary for better adhesion of artificial stone to the surface of the walls during cladding.

Production of single large-format “stones”

• The initial hardening of the solution takes from 12 hours to a day. Then the resulting “stones” are removed from the mold and left on racks for the final maturation of the concrete and strength gain for at least two weeks.

• If the next portion of the solution is to be poured into the matrix, then before doing so it must be washed with a soap solution.
• After the stone is completely ready, it is cleaned of dust and dried small fragments, and, if necessary, covered with one or more paints of the selected shades. The created “stone” can be colored during the process of pouring the solution into the matrix, as shown in the table above, or after it hardens. However, it should be noted that the second coloring option will be much more difficult, since it is necessary to maintain harmonious shades on all stones produced in a given batch.
  Final processing may include coating the surface with a durable weather-resistant varnish.

The second option is artificial cobblestones

Making imitation stones with beautiful shapes is becoming a kind of hobby for many. This is especially true for those owners who want to have a corner on their site that is close to natural conditions, which they want to decorate in a special way. This direction in landscape design received a specific name - “Art concrete”.

In appearance - no different from a natural boulder

Artificial stones made with high quality using this technique are almost impossible to distinguish from natural boulders. The advantage of this manufacturing method is that you don’t have to look for the exact option for a sample that you would like to see on your site, but you can take it and make it yourself. Moreover, making such a “stone” is quite simple.

For work, in addition to the cement mortar already discussed, you will need the following materials:

• Styrofoam. It can be of any thickness, but it is better that it be 100÷150 mm, since it will be much easier to cut out the desired shapes from such material.
• Reinforcing fiberglass mesh.
• A plastic bag or foam sponge to add relief or, conversely, to smooth surfaces.
• Adhesive for foam plastic. For this, cement-based tile adhesive, polymer adhesive, or even polyurethane foam can be used.
• Sandpaper with coarse and medium abrasive grain.
• Acrylic paints and durable atmospheric varnish for decorating the resulting “stone”.

Having prepared everything you need, you can start working.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to prepare foam panels of the required size. Then they are glued together to a thickness equal to the height of the stone planned. This design is left until completely dry. Next, the intended shape of the future “stone” is cut out from the resulting foam block blank using a construction knife. It can be anything, but in order not to come up with it on the fly, it is best to make a sketch of the planned decorative element in advance.
	Having cut out the desired shape, it is wrapped in reinforcing fiberglass mesh, trying to exactly repeat all the bends and irregularities of the future “stone”. The mesh can be temporarily fixed with the same polymer glue for foam plastic. Protruding parts of the relief can additionally be depicted by placing lumps or knots of dense fabric under the fiberglass mesh.
	The next step is to prepare the cement mortar. It must be said that instead of it, it is quite possible to use cement-based tile adhesive, intended for outdoor use or “for complex substrates.” This construction mixture is sold dry and mixed according to the instructions given on the packaging. The glue is more plastic than ordinary cement mortar, but its cost will, of course, be somewhat higher. To give plasticity to a regular cement-sand mixture, you can add PVA glue to it.
	Using a spatula or trowel, the solution is carefully applied to the foam mold on top of the reinforcing mesh. This is done with chaotic strokes - this will make it easier to give the surface the relief of natural stone. If you plan to make a “smooth cobblestone,” then the applied solution is moistened and smoothed with a rubber-gloved hand, or a thick polyethylene bag is placed on top of it, leveled and carefully pressed against the damp concreted surface.
	When the entire base of the future artificial stone is covered with a solution approximately 15–20 mm thick, it must be left for 20–30 minutes for initial setting.
	The next operation is carried out if you do not plan to make the surface of the “stone” smooth, but want to give it a “natural” relief texture. This can be done using a foam sponge or the same plastic bag, which is crumpled and in this form applied to the wet solution, leaving a relief on it.
	After the cement (tile adhesive) has set, the “stone” is turned over and its bottom is also sealed with mortar. When the mixture in this area has slightly set, you should not wait for it to dry completely - the “stone” is placed on the bottom and slightly pressed against a flat surface (for this you can use, for example, a sheet of plywood). Next, before leaving the resulting “stone” to completely harden and gain strength, it should be treated with coarse sandpaper. This operation is carried out three days after applying the solution to the reinforced form.
	In order to completely complete the process of manufacturing artificial stone, it takes a lot of time, since the solution applied to the surface must dry well and gain the required strength. Therefore, for complete readiness, you will need to wait at least 10-12 days, and if the cement mortar is applied in two or three thinner layers, you will have to pause in work for each of them to dry, and this will take even more time.
	When the solution gains the necessary strength, the “stone” will need to be decorated, that is, the selected shade will need to be applied to it. Before proceeding to painting, the workpiece is thoroughly cleaned - dust and small dried pieces of solution are removed, and then washed with water.
	The next step, after the washed surface has dried, is to paint it. The paint can be purchased in an aerosol can or you can use an acrylic composition, sold in regular packages, which is applied with a brush. The paint must be applied in at least two layers to completely cover all the recesses of the relief pattern.
	To give the surface a natural look, it is necessary to “reveal” the relief pattern, to make it visually more noticeable and convex. This is done using medium-grit sandpaper. After such processing of the protruding unevenness of the “stone” relief, they are somewhat lightened, and the recesses remain darker, toned, which creates the necessary smooth contrast transition.
	After this treatment, the “stone” is washed again with water and dried.
	In order to protect the color of the “stone” from ultraviolet rays, so that this decorative accessory does not lose its original appearance, its surface must be coated with matte varnish for external use. It is recommended to update this protective layer annually, then the artificial stone will decorate the garden plot for many years.
	Depending on the size and shape of the “stone” made, it can be used to disguise various elements that “fall out” from the general style of the landscape design of the site, but which cannot be done without (for example, hatches for drainage or water wells). Therefore, before choosing the shape of the future “boulder”, you should decide in advance on its installation location.

A few words about laying artificial wall stone

In order for the manufacturing process to be fully meaningful, it is necessary to make a number of comments about the features of laying artificial stone on the walls.

• it is necessary to mount it on an adhesive made on the basis of the same material from which the finishing material itself is made. In this case, perfect adhesion of the decorative cladding to the wall surface will be guaranteed.
• The masonry can be seamless or have perfectly even seams.

In order to maintain the required seam size throughout the entire masonry, special silicone or plastic calibrator strips are used to lay rows of finishing material. These elements are removed as the solution sets and is completely removed from the seams. After the glue has completely dried, the seam gaps are filled with special grouts.

The seamless masonry method is used when it is planned to imitate a monolithic wall covering with stone.

Seams, of course, with this approach still exist, but they are made as invisible as possible. To obtain such a masonry, it is necessary that the “stones” fit each other perfectly, both in size and in the evenness of the edges.

Separately, we should highlight the masonry, which has different sizes and shapes. In this case, the seams may have different thicknesses and be at different heights in relation to each other. This masonry option can be called the most difficult, since during the manufacturing process you will have to carefully consider the “joining” of finishing elements both in color and shape.

In conclusion, it should be said that the manufacture and independent laying of artificial stone will certainly be interesting and exciting for creative people who are able to independently develop and implement their own projects for the design of individual objects of a country plot or the surfaces of the walls of a house, both outside and inside. Even if you have absolutely no experience in such work, but have a great desire to try your own strength in this field, you should not deny yourself this pleasure. Moreover, these days in construction stores it is easy to find any materials necessary for work.