Air in the heating system is the source of many problems. Due to air locks, the circulation of coolant in the radiators is disrupted, and as a result, their heating noticeably deteriorates. Cracking and clicking sounds appear in the pipes. To solve this problem, it is necessary to install automatic and manual air vents for the heating system.
Types of air vents and the principle of their operation
The most common types of air vents are:
- automatic;
- mechanical (manual, Mayevsky crane).
Their common goal is the same - to remove accumulated air from the heating system.
Auto
As the name of this device suggests, it works independently and does not require human intervention, as it automatically removes air from the network. The gas outlet valve is located on the top or side.
The automatic air vent consists of the following parts:
- frame;
- case cover;
- float;
- jet;
- holder;
- spool;
- spring;
- valve and body o-ring;
- cork.
Attention! The automatic air vent should only be installed in a vertical position. If it is placed differently, the device will begin to leak.
The connecting threaded part of such an air vent can be straight or L-shaped (angular). Devices of the latter type are often installed on radiators instead of the Mayevsky tap.
The operating principle of an automatic air vent is as follows: air enters the upper part of the body, lowering the float and displacing water from the device. As the float descends, it acts on the holder, which opens the valve that releases air to the outside. Once all the gas has come out, water fills the body and lifts the float back up. At the same time, the holder closes the valve with the air outlet hole so that the coolant does not leak out.
Automatic devices react strongly to the quality of the liquid in the heating system. To ensure that they last as long as possible without interruption, it is recommended to install cleaning filters.
Mechanical
The body of a manual release is usually made of brass, has a simple design and small size. The main part of the entire Mayevsky faucet is a needle-type shut-off valve. To engage it and expel air, you need to turn the screw counterclockwise one turn with a special key, screwdriver or hand, depending on the model of the device. The needle opens a hole and gases escape through it. At this point, a faint hissing sound will be heard. As soon as all the air has escaped, coolant begins to flow out through the hole. After this, you need to tighten the screw all the way.
Attention! If the heating system is forced, then the circulation pumps should be turned off before bleeding air.
The only drawback of mechanical devices is that all operations with them have to be carried out manually.
Installation
In single-pipe systems with natural circulation, the role of an air vent is played by an open-type expansion tank. If a closed membrane tank is installed, then an automatic air exhaust device must be built into the heating system.
Pipes in networks with forced circulation must have a rise from the main riser to the others. Automatic air vents are installed at the highest points of the network, since this is where gas is collected, as well as in places of probable accumulation (collectors).
The Mayevsky tap is installed on radiators on the top right or left side. The majority of all gases are removed from the heating network through automatic air vents, and only a small proportion through mechanical devices.
Attention! First, remove air from the system, and only then from the radiators.
To make it easier and faster to replace the automatic air vent, it is recommended to install it on a shut-off valve. When unscrewing the air vent device, it cuts off the coolant.
Solving automatic air vent problems
Due to poor-quality coolant in automatic devices, the needle becomes coked over time, or rather, salts settle on it. As a result, it cannot completely close the air outlet hole. The result is that the coolant begins to flow out through it. To solve this problem, you need to remove the air vent, open the cover and clean the needle and rocker mechanism of all impurities. Then reassemble and install in place.
Another most common failure is cracking of the rubber seal located in the housing cover. As soon as the ring breaks, coolant begins to flow out from under the cap. To fix this problem, you must either replace the O-ring or wind FUM tape onto the thread instead.
Price
The cost of a mechanical air vent starts from 40 rubles. For automatic devices, it depends on the manufacturer, the connection diameter and the material from which it is made. Air vents made of brass are considered the best option, since steel ones are susceptible to corrosion. The price of brass devices starts from 400 rubles.
Reasons why air gets into the system
Most often, air locks appear in the heating system after a long period of inactivity, repair or replacement of any parts. Also, due to too rapid filling of the network with coolant, air bubbles form, so it must be filled slowly. After the initial filling of liquid, air pockets always appear in the system. Since dissolved oxygen is present in the water, when heated, it begins to evaporate and rise to the highest places, slowing down the circulation of the coolant.
In addition to noise and poor heating of radiators, the air in the heating system contributes to corrosion of pipes and pressure surges in the network. It is especially dangerous for wet-type circulation pumps, since during operation their sliding rings require constant lubrication with coolant.
In order for the entire network to last as long as possible, all radiators, boilers, collectors and other places where the passage of air is difficult should be equipped with air vents. If, after releasing the gases, the system still does not warm up properly, it is recommended to drain all the coolant to flush the pipes, since the cause of poor circulation may be excessive contamination.
An automatic air vent in heating systems is a device that helps get rid of excess air. As a rule, it is made of bronze or stainless steel.
What does the device consist of?
An automatic air vent consists of a housing with a connecting size that is no more than 15-16 mm. This device can be easily screwed onto a radiator at the required location in the overall room heating system. You can also screw in the air vent together with the shut-off valve.
The automatic shut-off valve is screwed directly onto the radiator into the heating system, and the air vent itself is mounted on top of it, which as a result should press a special plastic flag and open access to the entire heating system.
An automatic valve is needed so that you can easily dismantle or replace the air vent in the event of a breakdown. When the air vent is unscrewed, the flag rises up. An internal spring cuts off the area where the leak occurred. If you screw on a new air vent, the valve will open again and the entire system will work.
Let's take a look at the diagram and understand the operating principle of automatic air vents. The coolant is installed directly into the cavity in which the plastic float is located. Due to a special flag, it creates pressure on the spring-loaded rod. As a result, access to the external environment is opened.
According to this scheme, the air leaves the heating system. If water fills the entire cavity, the float will begin to press on the rod and close the hole, and at the same time the air access. This operating principle applies to absolutely all air vents.
Air vent malfunctions
Heating depends on the quality of all elements. If the coolant is of poor quality, the needle begins to coke. As a result, substances are formed on it, which dissociate in water into metal cations and anions of acid residues. Due to the salts, the needle does not close completely and begins to leak.
In this case, it is advisable to unscrew the cap and thoroughly clean the needle from dirt. Don't forget to remove dirt from the rocker mechanisms. After cleaning all elements of the air vent, as a rule, the leakage stops.
Another problem that often occurs with air vents is the destruction of the sealing rings under the cover. With such a breakdown, coolant leakage is noticeable. If you notice that the O-rings have become unusable, it is better to replace them or wrap FUM tape on the threads of the device.
If the O-rings have become unusable, you can wind FUM tape onto the threads of the device
Types of car air vents
All air vents are usually divided into several groups:
- Direct.
- Angular.
- Radiator.
The latter are convenient to use if your heating (the entire system) is not designed rationally, and you notice that air often accumulates in it.
Recently, the Mayevsky crane has become very popular, although these devices are not automatic. It is customary to install the Mayevsky tap directly on the radiator. This faucet is very convenient to bleed off excess air - just slightly open the screw with a screwdriver.
Do not forget that in order to effectively remove air, you need to make a certain slope when installing the radiator. It must be made in such a way that the part with the Mayevsky tap is slightly higher.
In conclusion, we note that without air vents it is difficult to ensure high-quality heating. Don't forget that installing these devices is a complex process. They must be mounted at the highest points in the heating system.
This is due to the fact that air accumulation and the formation of air jams are most likely there. Also, do not forget that the nipple must point straight up, otherwise the air vent float will not work correctly and the heating will “go away.”
Normally functioning heating in winter is a vital necessity. You can't survive in our climate without heating. But periodically, a previously normally working system begins to malfunction - the radiators do not heat up or do not heat up well, and extraneous noise (gurgling) appears. All these are signs that air has appeared in the heating system. The situation is far from rare, but it brings discomfort.
What are the dangers of air in the heating system?
Everyone has probably experienced more than once that the heating is turned on, but some radiator or a whole group does not heat up well or is completely cold. The reason for this is the air in the heating system. It usually accumulates at the highest point, displacing the coolant from this place. If a lot of it accumulates, the circulation of the coolant may stop altogether. Then they say that an air lock has formed in the heating system. In this case, professionals say that the system is airy.
To resume normal heating operation, the accumulated air must be removed. There are two options for this. The first is more often used in central heating systems. Taps are installed on the outer radiators in the branch. They are called descents. This is a regular valve. After filling the system with coolant, open it and keep it open until there is an even stream of water without air bubbles (then the water flows in jerks). If we talk about multi-storey buildings, then when the system is launched, the air vents on the risers must first be opened, and the remainder can already be discharged to the apartments.
In private systems or after replacing radiators in apartments, special air valves, rather than ordinary taps, are installed to bleed air. They are manual and automatic. They are placed in the upper free manifold on each radiator (preferably) and/or at the highest point of the system.
What else threatens the air in the heating system? It promotes faster destruction of heating system components. Although polymers are used more and more today, there are still plenty of metal parts. The presence of oxygen promotes the activation of oxidation (ferrous metal rusts).
Reasons for appearance
Air can appear in the heating system for various reasons. If this is a one-time problem, you can simply delete it and not search for the source. If deflation is required several times during the season, you will have to look for the reason. Here are the most common:
These are the most common places and ways in which air gets into radiators and batteries. It is necessary to kick him out of there from time to time, but when starting the heating in the fall, it is necessary.
Installing air release valves
To remove air from heating, air vents are installed on radiators - manual and automatic air valves. They are called differently: bleeder, air vent, bleeder or air valve, air vent, etc. The essence does not change from this.
Mayevsky air valve
This is a small device for manually bleeding air from heating radiators. It is installed in the upper free radiator manifold. There are different diameters for different collector sections.
Manual air vent - Mayevsky tap
It is a metal disk with a conical through hole. This hole is closed with a cone-shaped screw. By unscrewing the screw a few turns, we allow the air to escape from the radiator.
To facilitate air outlet, an additional hole was made perpendicular to the main channel. The air actually comes out through it. When deflating using a Mayevsky tap, point this hole upward. After this you can unscrew the screw. Unscrew it a few turns, but do not unscrew it too much. After the hissing stops, return the screw to its original position and move on to the next radiator.
When starting the system, it may be necessary to bypass all the air collectors several times until air stops escaping altogether. After this, the radiators should heat up evenly.
Automatic air release valve
These small devices are installed both on radiators and at other points in the system. They differ in that they allow you to bleed air in the heating system automatically. To understand the principle of operation, consider the structure of one of the automatic air valves.
The operating principle of the automatic release is as follows:
Various designs of automatic air valves operate on this principle. They can be straight or angular. They are placed at the highest points of the system and are present in the security group. They can be installed in identified problem areas - where the pipeline has an incorrect slope, which is why air accumulates there.
Instead of Mayevsky's manual taps, you can install an automatic drain for radiators. It is only slightly larger in size, but works automatically.
Cleaning from salts
The main problem with automatic valves for venting air from the heating system is that the air outlet hole is often overgrown with salt crystals. In this case, either the air does not come out or the valve begins to “cry”. In any case, you need to remove it and clean it.
So that this can be done without stopping the heating, automatic air valves are installed in pairs with non-return valves. The check valve is installed first, followed by the air valve. If necessary, the automatic air collector for the heating system is simply unscrewed, disassembled (unscrew the lid), cleaned and reassembled. After this, the device is again ready to bleed air from the heating system.
How to get rid of an air lock
Unfortunately, the air lock is not always in an easily accessible place. If there are design or installation errors, air can accumulate in the pipes. It is very difficult to get him out of there. First we determine the location of the plug. In the area of the plug, the pipes are cold and a babbling sound can be heard. If there are no obvious signs, they check the pipes by sound - tapping on the pipes. In a place where air accumulates, the sound will be louder and louder.
Any air lock found must be removed. If we are talking about the heating system of a private house, this is done by raising the temperature and/or pressure. Let's start with pressure. Open the nearest drain valve (in the direction of travel) and the make-up tap. Water begins to flow into the system, increasing the pressure. It forces the traffic jam to move forward. When air gets to the bleeder, it comes out. Stop feeding after all the air has escaped - the drain valve stops hissing.
Not all air locks give up so easily. For particularly stubborn ones, it is necessary to simultaneously raise the temperature and pressure. These parameters are brought to values close to maximum. You cannot exceed them - it is too dangerous. If the plug does not go away after this, you can try to open the drain valve (to drain the system) and the make-up valve at the same time. Maybe this way it will be possible to move the air lock or get rid of it altogether.
If a similar problem occurs constantly in one place, there is an error in the design or wiring. In order not to suffer every heating season, a valve is installed in the problem area to remove air. You can cut a tee into the main line and install an air vent at the free entrance. In this case, the problem will be solved simply.
Content
- Air in the heating system - why is it bad?
- Design and principle of operation of an automatic air vent
- Types and markings, popular models
- Installation in a heating system
The presence of air in the heating system is extremely undesirable. However, he gets there one way or another. This has a very detrimental effect on the quality of operation of the heating system as a whole and reduces the service life of its individual components. In order to remove accumulated air, an automatic air vent is needed.
In this article we will talk in detail about this device, the principle of its operation, marking features and popular models, as well as how to properly install it in the heating system.
Air in the heating system - why is it bad?
It would seem that the heating system is closed, completely filled with coolant, where does the air come from? There are several ways for it to appear inside, among them there are several main ones:
While filling with coolant
While you fill the heating system with water or other coolant, it mixes with air. It is almost impossible to avoid this, so you have to take it for granted.
Through poor connections
Poor installation of a heating system or other heating device, poor quality, defective or broken shut-off valves or other elements - all this leads to air penetration inside.
Chemical reactions
In addition to air, other gases can accumulate inside. For example, if you use a coolant with high acidity and aluminum radiators, hydrogen will be released as a result of a chemical reaction.
As you can see, there are many reasons for this phenomenon. But why is this so bad? The first thing this leads to is cavitation. It significantly accelerates the wear of equipment and leads to noise during its operation. The second reason is corrosion. It destroys the elements of the heating system and carries their particles with the coolant flow to other devices, clogging and interfering with their normal functioning. Thirdly, the presence of air reduces the actual heat transfer of heating devices and leads to disruption of the pumps. It can even cause a rupture of the boiler casing.
To eliminate all these problems, an automatic air vent is used. Let's figure out how it works in the heating system and what components it consists of.
Return to contentsDesign and principle of operation of an automatic air vent
The design of this small device is very simple. Inside the brass body there is a polypropylene float which is connected via a rocker arm to the spool. As the body fills with air, the float moves down and opens the exhaust valve. The freed space is filled with water and the rising float closes the spool. To prevent various debris, dust and dirt, from getting inside the spool, its outlet hole is closed with a plastic cap.
Photo 2: Design of an automatic float-type air vent There are models with a slightly different implementation of this process, but in general it is always the same: when the float is down, the valve is open and releases air; if it is raised, the spool closes and the device accumulates gas again. This cycle is repeated again and again automatically.
Return to contentsTypes and markings, popular models
There are several types of automatic air vents. All of them are divided into two large types: automatic and.
Depending on the diameter of the threaded connection, they are of two types: 1/2 and 3/4 inches. The first is better known by Russian markings as an automatic air vent valve Du 15, the second - Du 20.
According to the method of fastening, they are divided into classic straight and lateral. For air vents of the second type, the threaded connection is rotated 90 degrees. The air release valve may also be located on the top or side. Various modifications are produced by the manufacturer to facilitate installation in difficult places in the heating system or for mounting on the side of radiators.
Photo 3: Automatic air vent DN15 “Valtec” VT 502 with shut-off valve Two manufacturers are best known on the domestic market: Valtec and Danfoss. The Valtec company supplies the Russian market with an automatic air vent VT.502 with a mounting diameter of 1/2 (DN15). The model has proven itself well and is very popular among installers of autonomous heating systems in private homes. It has a brass body coated with a layer of nickel, which is designed for a maximum pressure of 10 bar and a temperature of 110 °C. The average price at which you can currently buy this model is 280 rubles.
Photo 4: Automatic air vents 1/2 "Danfoss" series "Eagle" and "Wind" Danfoss takes second place. It produces automatic air vents in two series: “Eagle” and “Wind”. Despite the general technical characteristics, they differ only slightly in appearance. The models are made in brass cases and are designed for a maximum pressure of 10 bar and a temperature of 120 °C. In addition to the standard mounting thread DN15 (1/2), Danfoss also produces automatic air vents with fastening 3/8 (DN10). Prices for these devices are also within 300 rubles.
Air locks in pipes and radiators are a typical problem in heating systems. Everyone who lives in houses with a similar type of heating is familiar with such problems. If in an open system the air outlet is not limited by anything, then in a closed pipeline, in particular a centralized one, heating devices can be freed from gas using special devices - air vents
Characteristics of air vents
It is convenient to present the technical features of the device in the table.
These parameters must be selected taking into account the type of network. For individual heating, the choice is unlimited; for centralized systems, you need to find out the pressure and temperature of your home at the housing department.
The cost of an air vent device depends on the model, manufacturer, material, connection (1/2 inch - 10-15% more expensive). The budget option can be purchased for $5, the most expensive is $15.
It is worth spending time choosing a supplier: in one store, an automatic air vent for heating Danfoss DU 15 is offered for $7.63, in another the same model is offered for $11.5.
When purchasing branded appliances from well-known brands (Danfoss, Wind, Valtec), beware of counterfeits. The price range for a shut-off valve is from $1.1 to $1.8.
Prices for automatic air vents
Price catalog for automatic air vents
Most popular models
At the moment, air vents from Valtec and Danfoss are popular. Each device is characterized by certain qualities, advantages and application features.
| Device | Characteristics | Price |
| "Valtec" - VT.502 | Mounting diameter?, that is, DN 15. The model is used in private homes, that is, in autonomous systems. Nickel plated brass body. The device is designed for a pressure of 10 Bar and operation at 110 degrees. | 280-300 rubles |
| "Danfoss" | Made from high quality brass. The devices are designed to operate with a maximum pressure of 10 bar. They can withstand temperatures of 120 degrees. There are models DN 15 and DN 10. | 300-350 rubles |
| "Airvent" | Device category DN15. The air vent is designed to effectively remove accumulated gases from the pipeline, as well as from the air collectors that are equipped with the internal systems of heating systems of buildings and heat supply kits. | 484 rubles |
Types of air vents in the heating system
Based on the principle of operation, they distinguish between ball and needle automatic devices, and according to design - straight, angular and radiator. Despite the different areas of use, the operating principle of all air vents is the same.
Special float devices are very popular. This is an automatic air vent that provides side air release. The device operates at an operating pressure of 10 bar, with a maximum permissible temperature of 110 degrees. The device can work not only with water, but also with various glycol solutions in concentrations up to 25%, and the connection thread is 1/2.
All modern automatic air vents are divided into several types, differing in general design. There are three main types of such devices:
- Angular;
- Straight;
- Radiator.
Important! Regardless of certain external differences and various areas of application, the general principle of operation of such devices is the same.
Direct air vent
The most common is the first type with a straight pipe. It is indispensable at the highest points of the system, where, according to all the laws of physics, the maximum amount of gases accumulates, and manual air release in such places is often difficult.
Which is constantly under pressure, is ensured by the boiler safety group. It is usually located on the supply pipe that exits the heat generator. In addition to the pressure gauge and safety valve, this kit also includes an automatic air vent for heating, which bleeds air when the tank is filled with liquid. If the unit is installed correctly, it can be separated from the system at any time and released for maintenance using a gas vent. For boilers operating on solid fuels, a safety group is required.
You can also find an air release in. Its task is to create conditions for them to have an uninterrupted supply of water. The problem is that the pumping unit can only work with an incompressible medium. The penetration of air onto the pump impeller threatens to stop it completely. The active circulation of liquid is controlled by the gas vent.
Important! The lack of air vents in the heating can lead to the fact that air discharge will have to be done manually, which is quite difficult
Corner air vent
If the location is too inaccessible to install a simple valve (for example, the pipe is horizontal), use an angle version of the valve. Its pipe, rotated 90?, can be connected to the horizontal part. It is worth noting that the corner modification with external thread, except for the deployed pipe, is practically no different from its analogues, so these types are completely interchangeable.
Radiator automatic air vent
Sometimes an automatic angle valve is installed on radiators instead of a traditional one. It is only slightly larger than its counterpart, a little more expensive (about $2), but does not require daily human intervention. This choice is justified if gases accumulate in the battery regularly due to the chemical reaction of the aluminum alloy from which the section is made and hot water.
Although for such cases they produce a special automatic device with a diameter like a radiator plug (see photo). The device is designed specifically for aluminum and partially bimetallic radiators and has a suitable connection type.
For cast iron batteries and old-type systems, the Mayevsky tap and drain pipe are more suitable.
Corner and modern radiator air vents
In a variety of residential heating systems, situations may arise when it is necessary to urgently remove the resulting plugs from the most remote and inaccessible areas. in certain situations, it is difficult or impossible to install a valve with a simple design; the threaded pipe is positioned strictly horizontally. In such cases, a special corner is ideal. an element such as a pipe comes out from the bottom and then turns at a right angle, so it is ideal for connecting to horizontal sections.
Important! Angled air vents equipped with an external threaded connection are practically no different from standard models; only a rotated pipe is present. It is for this reason that angular ones can be used instead of straight lines.
Very often, to automatically bleed air pockets from heating systems, instead of a conventional tap, specialists install an angle valve. This is ideal especially if gases are always formed in the heating network and this happens in the radiator part itself. The basis for this is the usual chemical reaction of various substances that are found in some types of water, and aluminum batteries and at a fairly high temperature. All valves equipped with angular pipes should not be installed, since there is already a special automatic water drain.
Radiator devices were originally designed to be mounted for batteries, which have threaded connections specifically for this purpose. They are mounted instead of manual valves on bimetallic and aluminum radiators, that is, where there is some contact with water. Here, installing a radiator air vent is mandatory. In all other cases, such a device is installed strictly at will, which many people have, as it provides convenience during use.
Important! Standard radiators made of cast iron, which are connected to standard centralized heating systems. In these cases, it is better to equip the equipment with a conventional manual tap and it is necessary to combine all this with a drain pipe
Accessories for automatic air vents
For convenient maintenance, complete devices are also sold. The automatic air vent with valve is a threaded adapter with a spring-loaded reed valve. It is screwed in front of the gas outlet so that it can be serviced while the network is running. Models from VALTEK, DANFOSS and other reputable brands are equipped with such adapters.
This video will help you understand the features of each type of drainage system:
Where are air vents installed?
In a closed system, when installing a device for effective gas removal, certain rules must be observed:
- The pipes are laid so that the vectors of movement of water and air coincide, and the hot liquid is directed from the main riser to distant ones.
- The air collector must be mounted at the highest point, for example, when going around a doorway from above, since air is released from the liquid at low water speed.
- Devices for removing air should be placed in areas where gas accumulation is guaranteed: at turns of risers, in places where pipes change to another cross-sectional size, on all batteries, separators, and combs.
It is mandatory that air vents are mounted on aluminum radiators, which release hydrogen upon contact with the coolant. For partially bimetallic batteries, the problem is not so urgent, but they do contain aluminum, which means that gas will have to be removed, although not so often. There is no aluminum in 100% bimetallic models, but manufacturers strongly recommend using them together with devices for bleeding air.
With steel panel batteries, due to their special design, the air release valve is installed at the factory.
Modern air vents are not effective on traditional cast iron batteries and pipes. Bleeding gases in such structures is possible only with part of the coolant, so standard and ball valve options are used. A specialist’s opinion on where and how it is advisable to install air vents is in this video:
Prerequisites and consequences of the formation of air jams
In heating systems, untreated water saturated with air is most often used as a coolant. When heated, oxygen is released, and gradually accumulating microbubbles create a serious plug that blocks the free circulation of water.
If the liquid is supplied too quickly when filling the system, the gases do not have time to escape. The structure must be filled gradually: one floor of the branched system requires at least 1 hour to fill.
If there is a water leak in the system, or individual connections are not screwed tightly enough, air will enter the heating network. It can also penetrate during pipe repairs.
Tightness also depends on the type of material: the walls of polymer pipes without an anti-diffusion layer are permeable to oxygen. Some metals (such as aluminum) react to release gases from the coolant.
The accumulation of gas microbubbles can also be caused by errors during heating installation. To a greater extent, this relates to the absence of pipe slopes, which prevent air stagnation in certain places, from where the air does not enter the automatic air vent for heating. In such problem areas, it is necessary to install additional air exhaust devices.
Micro air bubbles reduce the efficiency of the system:
- Reduced heat transfer from radiators: the upper part, filled with air, remains cold.
- Internal corrosion: Oxygen in the air destroys the inner lining of the equipment.
- Circulation disturbance: the movement of the coolant may be partially or completely stopped.
- Rapid pump wear: the blades and bearings of the circulation pump experience regular overload, which leads to premature failure of the device.
- Additional noise: radiators, pump, pipes constantly hiss.
An effective way to eliminate all of these problems is to install a manual or automatic air vent - a device for bleeding air from the network.
Aluminum, present in modern battery alloys, acts as a catalyst for the decomposition of water. Gas bubbles accumulate in places where there are congestions for free circulation and create traffic jams.
Air blocks can often be observed at the top of heating radiators. In such places, the metal remains cold upon contact. Therefore, a manual air vent is installed in heating devices - a Mayevsky tap, familiar to more than one generation of Russians since 1930. Another name for the rare model is a radiator needle air valve.
Today, for modern batteries, various types of automatic valves have been developed to remove gases that do not require regular monitoring. You can see such a model disassembled in this video clip:
Automatic gas vent device
The device is made in the form of a hollow body with a pipe, which is located in the lower part of the body. The cylinder contains a polymer float connected by a rod to a needle-type valve.
Operating principle of the device based on the application of gravity of a floating float. When it is in the upper position, the valve is closed; if it is lowered, the tap opens. The plastic float is connected to a spring spool. When gas bubbles enter the device, the float lowers, and at a certain moment the spool releases the hole for the gas to escape. After its removal, the housing is filled with coolant again, the float returns to its original position, and the spool moves, closing the hole. The mechanism is in standby mode. You can see the details of the air vent device in the photo.
- The locking cap prevents water leakage in case of an accident and protects the hole from contamination. In new models, you can find the option of forced closing of the valve, which allows you to remove air manually.
- A check valve with a built-in auto-lock makes it possible to service the gas trap without draining the water.
- A float device is also useful when releasing a system or a separate area. Since lowering the water level in the chamber will automatically open the valve slightly, this will allow air to enter to speed up emptying.
- The reliability of the gas outlet depends on hydrostatic pressure, which means that the operating pressure standards must be observed in the heating network.
The operating principle of the air vent can be seen in this video:
Design shortcomings include the requirement for cleanliness of the coolant. Dirty water gradually clogs the hole, which breaks the tightness of the outlet valve. To eliminate the leak, the mechanism is disassembled and cleaned.
Another weak point in such models is a leak in the threaded area between the device body and the top cover. The problem occurs after the seal ruptures. The gasket ring must be replaced or the threads must be wound with fum tape.
Features of installing an air vent
Corner models are usually installed on radiators; alternative options are also produced, especially for modern heating devices. If? the collector does not match the connecting one? valves, use adapters. If the gas vent model does not provide a shut-off valve, it is advisable to purchase it additionally.
Modern automatic air vents are installed in a vertical position. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the air fitting is directed upwards. Installation is carried out in the highest parts of pipelines, boilers, heating devices, collectors and in areas where there is a large accumulation of air.
The installation process itself is carried out using a special open-end wrench, which is applied to the hexagon of the housing itself. It is under the flask.
Important! Installation using a lever wrench is not permitted. This can lead to significant damage and malfunction of the entire device as a whole.
In modern systems, a gas vent with an air valve is one of the important components that ensures normal liquid circulation. The design of the device is simple, like everything ingenious, therefore, with proper maintenance, it is quite reliable if you choose a high-quality model from a trusted manufacturer.
