How is wiring done in the house? Electrical wiring diagram in a private house - what is it and how to make it

But the first finishing, for example, in a newly built house, becomes an even more important task. Here you can no longer get by with simple cosmetics. Sooner or later, you will have to undertake the installation of electrical wiring either yourself or hire professional electricians, because electricity is necessary in the house. And even with a one-story house, the amount for this will be quite considerable.

But what if these funds are already planned to be spent on something else? This question can be answered like this. With a strong desire, extreme care and accuracy, as well as strict adherence to instructions and rules, you can install the electrical wiring yourself.

Let's try to figure out whether it is possible, without special education, to do the wiring in a house with your own hands, how difficult such work is and what rules must be followed in order to conduct electricity in a private house. How to conduct wiring, electrical wiring and complete electrification of the house - these are the questions that we will now try to sort out. So, step-by-step instructions on how to properly install electrical wiring in a private home.

Preparation for installation

Installing wiring first of all means one thing - not to rush and try not to miss a single detail, because this business does not tolerate fuss. Before you start work, it is worth sketching out diagrams of future electrical communications (this diagram may be useful in the future). To do this, first of all, it is necessary to determine the location of the input distribution board, all lamps, sockets, and also calculate the maximum power for each of them. Next, having made a schematic sketch on a sheet of paper (an example of a similar sketch is above), distribute the load along the lines - this will be the electrical wiring in the house. It should be taken into account that modern lighting devices consume a fairly small amount of electricity, and therefore it would be quite acceptable to plan the number of lighting lines at the rate of 1 group per 2 rooms, and this is done only for the convenience of subsequent maintenance and repair.

But with power groups, that is, lines that will go to sockets, calculations should be more accurate. After all, the size of the machines and the cross-section of cables suitable for the total power consumed by household appliances will depend on the detailed data of consumers.

Usually, when installing electrical wiring, the best option is to have each socket group in the room run on a separate line. In addition to reducing the load on wiring and circuit breakers, this provides greater convenience during subsequent repairs of sockets and cables, if the need arises.

Naturally, electrical appliances such as an electric stove or a boiler for heating water must run in separate lines.

Section selection

When doing work such as do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house, calculating the required cable plays a very important role. This means that only after calculating the total load in the rooms can we proceed to choosing a section. By the way, the wire diameter can also be calculated not only by power consumption, but also by current consumption. All necessary data can be found in the technical documentation for household electrical appliances. Such calculations are required before installing electricity in the house.

Do not forget that the cable cross-section is calculated based on the totality of all data, not excluding the distance from the distribution incoming cabinet to the consumer, as well as the type of installation - with an open method of installation, the wire cross-section is allowed to be smaller than with hidden wiring, for due to natural cooling.

It is also necessary to take into account the material from which the cable is made. All data on the selection and calculation of cable cross-section can be seen in the attached table.

An aluminum cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters will be optimal for lighting. mm, and a copper cross-section of 1.5 square meters is sufficient. mm. But this is only under normal lighting conditions. If high power halogen lamps are used for lighting, the calculation is also made according to the table.

It is important to understand that it will be more reliable if the diameter of the wire is slightly larger than required - this will eliminate the need for additional wiring when adding any additional household appliances and electrical equipment in the kitchen or other rooms.

Sockets, switches and lighting fixtures

Having decided on the cross-section and length of the cables, you need to select the necessary lighting fixtures, sockets and switches. This also needs to be done in advance, before going to the store. Sockets are selected depending on the type of household electrical appliance that will be plugged into it. After all, it’s no secret that the plug of a household appliance may be an old model, or it may be according to the European standard, that is, with thick pins. This must be taken into account when designing. It is also necessary to determine the degree of protection, that is, IP. To do this, determine the location of the outlet and the possibility of exposure to aggressive environments, that is, humidity, dust, dirt, etc. This also applies to the choice of switches and lighting devices.

Another important point. If there are small children in the house, then it makes sense to purchase sockets with protective curtains - they will not allow children to put foreign objects inside, which will protect children from electric shock.

You also need to decide where the switches will be installed and where dimmers will need to be installed. Depending on this, it will be possible to choose lighting devices. Do not forget that not all LED lamps are dimmable, and therefore it is better to immediately calculate the number of adjustable and non-adjustable lamps.

Installation

After purchasing all the necessary cables and equipment, you can proceed directly to installation. The first thing you need to do is draw the routes along which the cables will pass, after which, using a fence cutter or hammer drill, you need to make grooves, called grooves, into which the electrical wiring will be laid. Also, using a hammer drill and a special diamond or pobedit bit, recesses are made for sockets, switches and junction boxes.

Do not forget that distribution boxes are placed directly above each switch and socket. The grooves into which the wiring is laid are located strictly vertically or horizontally - in this case, in the future you will not have to guess where the wire is located if you have to drill something.

After the grooves are made, a cable is laid, which is fixed in the groove so that the channel can subsequently be plastered. In places where sockets, switches and distribution boxes are installed, it is necessary to leave at least 10–15 cm of wire reserve, which is necessary for connections.

By the way, if the wire goes from the distribution box to a single-key switch, then the cable should be two-wire, and if it goes to a two-key switch, then it should be three-wire. It’s probably worth looking at the methods of installing distribution boxes in a little more detail.

Electrical wiring

Surely everyone has noticed that the insulation colors of the cable cores are different colors. This is not done by the manufacturer for beauty or aesthetics. First of all, this is ease of installation and subsequent maintenance, as well as the electrical safety of the installer himself.

Wiring by color is carried out as follows:

• The yellow-green, light green or yellow wire is always ground. These are the colors that are generally accepted today.
• Blue, cyan or white with a blue stripe - always a neutral wire or neutral. It should not be confused with grounding. Of course, if these cores are bridged, the equipment will not fail, but if a residual current device (RCD) is installed in the input panel, it will be constantly switched off.
• All other colors are used as phase wires.

The wiring diagram must correspond to the color marking.

It is important to remember that in order to make the wiring in the distribution box to the switches correctly, it is the “phase” that must be interrupted, which means the neutral wire (and, if present, the ground wire) must be routed so that it goes directly to the lamp, and the phase went down to the switching device.

Both wires are sent from the box to the sockets, that is, both “phase” and “zero”.

Connections in junction boxes must be tight. For this, it is advisable to use special terminal blocks - Wago. If the twisting method is used, then it makes sense to solder such connections to obtain better contact and prevent heating of the wire.

Installation of the incoming power cabinet

Probably the most important step in installing electrical wiring in a private house is connecting the elements of the power panel, through which electricity will be supplied, protection against overloads and short circuits, as well as metering of electricity supplied to residential premises.

It should be noted that first the entire installation of the electrical cabinet and switching of the wiring going to the premises is carried out, and only after that the main power is supplied.

Modern switchboards are equipped with special DIN rails that facilitate the fastening of equipment such as automatic machines, RCDs and electric meters.
The power cabinet switching sequence is as follows:

The first step is to attach the input machine. Its rating must be higher than the total power of the distribution machines. Also, the wire going from it to the electricity meter, as well as from the electric meter to the distribution machines, must have a larger cross-section than the cable cores going to the distribution lines in residential premises.

It is also necessary to remember that the power line for voltage input from the pole to the house is made only by the service organization after the necessary approvals. Under no circumstances should you do this kind of work yourself. This means that wiring in a private house is a job performed by a home handyman, and supplying the power line to the input is the task of a specialist.

Installation of an electricity meter

The electric meter is installed after the introductory two-pole circuit breaker as follows.

The phase wire from the breaker comes to the first, and the neutral wire to the third contact. The second contact is the phase output to the distribution machines, and the fourth is the zero output, which is connected to the zero bus, which is usually provided in modern electrical panels. All blue or blue (depending on the cable manufacturer) lines going to the premises are also connected to it. This is where the advantage of color-coded cables comes into play.

When connecting an electricity meter, you can also be guided by the connection diagram, which is always present on the back of the protective contact cover.

The wire strands in the contact terminals of the meter, which has two clamping screws, are fixed as follows: first, the upper screw is tightened, then the lower one is pressed. Thus, the core is evenly and tightly located in the contact terminal, which will avoid heating.

Distribution machines

Purchased according to the number of socket and lighting groups, as well as their currents, the machines are mounted on a DIN rail. From above, among themselves, they are all connected by jumpers. Thus, when power is applied to one of them, the voltage is evenly distributed across all.

After this, you should, without mixing up the groups, connect the wires going to the premises to the distribution machines. In this case, it makes sense to sign each of the machines, which of the groups it connects to. This will eliminate unnecessary shutdowns when replacing, for example, a lamp or socket. After all, if a problem occurs in one of the sockets, you can turn off the machine that is responsible for this particular group. Then electrical appliances in other rooms will operate as normal, and in the room where repairs or replacement are needed, the lights will even be on. Therefore, it is worth carefully considering the electrical wiring project at home.

After all the work done, you need to once again stretch all the contacts on the machines, the electricity meter and, most importantly, on the zero bus, since if there is poor contact and heating of the wire, it is the “zero” that begins to burn first.

In addition, after 2-3 weeks of operation, these contacts will need to be checked again and, if necessary, extended.

Testing and commissioning

If you are not sure that all the wiring in the junction boxes is done correctly, it is, of course, better to contact a specialist. If you have such confidence, you can begin checking. Without installing light fixtures, sockets and switches, it is necessary (of course, after making sure that all the terminals from them do not bridge each other), turn on the lines of the power (outlet) group one by one. If there are no short circuits (the machines have not turned off), you need to check all the wires of the sockets using an indicator or multitester. If everything is in order, you can move on to the lighting groups.

After disconnecting the sockets, the room lighting circuit breakers are turned on, and then the voltage at the terminals on the switches is checked, where there should be an incoming phase and one or two outgoing wires without voltage. When normal, the lighting lines are turned off and the breaker wires are bridged. This will allow you to check the voltage at the cable terminals directly to the lighting devices after power is applied.

If testing does not reveal any complaints, you can safely cover up the scratches on the walls, close the distribution boxes and (naturally, turning off the power) begin interior decoration of the room. This completes the installation of electrical wiring in a private house.

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring, as already mentioned, means being careful and accurately following instructions and rules - home electrical wiring is complex. But the factor of self-confidence is also important. Therefore, if, before making the wiring, there are doubts about the ability to complete the entire installation, then it is better to immediately entrust this matter to specialists.

Do not think that after completing some of the electrical installation work, you will be able to pay a smaller amount. This option will not exist, and here's why. Not a single self-respecting professional will undertake to carry out electrical wiring in a house where the installation has already been started by others because, in fact, everything needs to be redone and rechecked.

The main thing is accuracy and close contact. Connection using WAGO terminal blocks.

Therefore, the amount for services of this kind may not only be equal to the cost of complete electrical installation, but even exceed it.

If, nevertheless, the work is done in a private house with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the tightness of the connections and compliance with the color markings, in order to avoid short circuits, damage to electrical equipment or electric shock.

Of course, doing electrical wiring in a house is a very complex and labor-intensive process, and it also takes a lot of time. But, nevertheless, with the right approach, it is quite doable on your own, which will save money, and most importantly, it will help you gain enormous and useful installation experience, which will never be superfluous.

An electrical wiring diagram is an accurate drawing containing a plan of all premises with a precise indication of electrical supply elements and distribution groups.

Comment. For convenience, all consumers should be divided into separate groups. Each group must be connected to a separate machine. This will help avoid a complete power outage in the house if repairs are needed in one of the rooms. Plus, if you make one group and connect it to one machine, you will need a very high power cable, since very large loads arise when several devices are simultaneously connected to the network.

Most often, consumers are divided into the following groups:

• Electricity supply for living rooms;
• Electricity supply to the kitchen and hallway;
• Room lighting;
• Electricity supply for electric stoves;

  The electric stove is placed in a separate group to prevent overloads in the electrical network.

• Electricity supply to the bathroom.

  The bathroom is separated into a separate group. Due to the high humidity in the toilet and bath, special requirements are placed on electrical wiring.

Now that the consumers are divided into groups, you should mark the main connection points of the consumers (air conditioner, dishwasher, water heater, etc.).

The next step is to determine where to install sockets, junction boxes, lamps and switches. We carefully connect all the electrical circuits and do not forget to mark the lengths of the wires.

Comment:

• Wires can pass horizontally and vertically, only at right angles!
• First of all, we make a draft version of the circuit, carefully check the connections, and only after that we create a final version.
• It is advisable to make a diagram of each group on a separate sheet.
• It is necessary to make a wiring plan in at least two copies, as it may be needed more than once. The best option would be an electronic diagram.

An accurate floor plan is created on the clean sheets. It is necessary to sign the dimensions. All electrical points should be marked with special symbols. Next, we connect them with lines that indicate wires.

For the best reading of the diagram, it is necessary to highlight the power cables, grounding and lighting wires in different colors. It is imperative to mark all distances from wires to walls, floors, ceilings, heating systems, as well as the linear dimensions of the rooms.

Comment. To increase safety, you need to install a residual current device on all distribution groups (separately)!

Required materials and tools

List of tools, materials and other supplies that may be needed:

• Screwdrivers.
• Wire stripper.
• Indicator screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Gloves.
• Drill.
• Hammer.
• Concrete bit (for drilling holes for sockets and switches of a certain diameter).
• Grinder with a disc for concrete.
• Hammer.
• Plastic dowels with self-tapping screws to secure the mounting box for the switch and socket.
• Mounting boxes.
• Pads for installing sockets and switches with external wiring.
• Wires (copper or aluminum).
• Electrical cable.
• Junction box.
• Residual current device.
• Counter.
• Machine.

Brief information

Today, only copper wires are used in homes, since aluminum wires cannot be used for hidden wiring.

There are two types of wires and cables: single-core and stranded. They differ in the number of cores isolated from each other. The cores of wires and cables can be single-wire or multi-wire. Wires are selected depending on the load.

Comment. Don't skimp on materials; cheap materials quickly break down!

Bottom wiring

• First, be sure to check the wiring diagram and calculations;
• The distance from the floor must be at least 10 cm;
• You cannot make bevels; all wires must be located at right angles;
• The wires must not cross under any circumstances;
• Wires must pass at a distance of at least 10 cm from window frames and doorways;
• The connections must be strong;
• It is strictly prohibited to have uninsulated, exposed wire sections, broken sockets and switches!!!
• should be entrusted to a specialist - an electrician.

Step-by-step guide to installing electrical wiring

General information on installation of external and hidden wiring

When installing electrical wiring in a house, the following condition must be met: a power cable must be connected to the common electrical panel. The electrical panel itself should contain groups of circuit breakers and a residual current device (it is better to entrust this type of work to an electrician.

Since working at high voltage is extremely dangerous, and there is also a chance of running into a fine). From the electrical panel, the wiring runs to residential and non-residential premises.

Reference. Initially, three phases, 0 and grounding are supplied to the machines. Next, phase, neutral and grounding are supplied to the sockets and switch. Three phases are needed to distribute the load.

Comment. For the bathroom and kitchen, the line should be drawn separately.

Each line is divided into two groups of wires, one goes to the sockets, the other goes to the sources.

House wiring diagram

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

You need to choose the correct cable cross-section size.

Comment. To select the desired section:

• Find out the maximum power in the electrical network;
• Calculate the power consumption of all electrical appliances that are or will be in the house.

Example: If the wiring in the room is made with 3x1.5 wire, then the maximum power of all devices used in this place should not exceed 4 kW.

Comment. It should be remembered that where the cable connects to each other, an additional 11-16 cm of length will be required!

We make grooves according to the diagram(slits) under the wires using a hammer and a grinder with a diamond blade:

1. We begin to run the wire from the machines to the sockets and switches. The depth of the groove is approximately 2-3 cm, width is 2-2.5 cm.
2. Using a hammer drill and a circular saw, we cut out holes for sockets and switches:
   • We cut the wires to the required lengths and make a cross-section;
   • We lay the wires in the grooves;

We prepare the construction mixture. Dilute the dry mixture with water until a homogeneous mass is obtained and apply it to the wall with a spatula; after drying, remove all irregularities using a foam grater.

An example of marking electrical wiring in an apartment

Installation of external wiring

Installation of external electrical wiring is carried out only if it is impossible to make hidden wiring.

The process of performing this type of work is practically no different from the previous one, except that the wires are not laid in grooves, but in a plastic cable channel.

Several mandatory rules when installing open wiring:

• The cable is laid only at right angles;
• The wires must not cross;
• The location of the cable from door jambs and window frames is at least 10 cm;

Installation of sockets and switches

Arrangement of elements:

• We place the switches to the left of the doorway at a height of 80-90 cm from the floor;
• Sockets should be located at a height of 30 cm from the floor;
• Wiring to sockets should be from below, to switches - from above.

Basic actions:

• We connect the wires where the input and output points of boxes, switches, and sockets are located. This can be done by crimping or welding.
• If outdoor installation is carried out, then you should usefrom materials that do not conduct current. They need to be secured using screws, glue and self-tapping screws.

  Comment. There is a rule for switches: they are installed in a phase wire break.

• We install installation boxes in the wall recesses and install sockets and switches in them.

  Comment. In order to make recesses, special attachments for different wall materials are used, which are installed on the hammer drill. They come in different sizes. You should select the ones that are suitable specifically for your C. Installation boxes (distribution boxes) are needed to branch the wire (one end will go to the outlet or switch, the other further).

• We securely fix the junction box.
• We install the sockets ourselves. We insert the wires into the terminals and secure them carefully.
• We insert the socket into the installation box and secure it with screws using the mounting plate. An overhead socket is installed on top of the wall.
• Further on the principle of installing sockets, we make switches.

Putting electrical wiring into operation

Electrical wiring should be put into operation gradually, that is, all distribution groups and all machines must be checked one by one. First one - turn it on, check it and move on to the next one.

Important! All elements of the electrical network must be in good working order; if one of the elements breaks down, it should be replaced immediately.

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a private house

Typical mistakes when performing this type of work

• Mixing high and low voltage wires in one installation box.
• Incorrect load calculations in the electrical network.

  Important! Incorrect connection of wires and incorrect calculations of the load in the network can lead to ignition of the wiring and fire.

• Hidden mounting boxes. They should be easily accessible when needed!
• Do not mix lighting and ordinary wires. They have different cross-sections! This may cause a fire!
• Small gap between wiring and wooden elements.

Safety regulations

• When do you start electrical wiring work?, it is necessary to turn off the power in the electrical circuit;
• Tools used during work must be with insulating coating on the handles (mark on the handles – 1000 V);
• Make sure the power is really off using special devices;
• Must be replaced: damaged plugs, cables and couplings;
• When working with electrical appliances, do not forget to remove the plugs from the sockets;
• Work with input voltage, grounding, distribution boxes, the meter and fuses should be entrusted to a specialist - an electrician;
• Be sure to attach a warning sign on the electrical panel box.

• When purchasing sockets and switches, check availability of documents for the goods;
• You can't skimp on small materials, such as sockets, switches, etc.
• Carefully calculate the electricity consumption of all appliances located in the apartment;
• Determine how many sockets can be made, follows using the ratio of 1 element per four linear meters of wall;
• To power powerful consumers, wires with a cross section of 6.0 mm2 are usually used. For example, for an electric stove.
• A good option would be to install circuit breakers for each wiring line;
• Installation of sockets in bathrooms is prohibited! Exception: elements are connected through a special isolation transformer;
• If there are several parallel wires, it is worth placing them at a distance of at least 3–5 mm;
• Grounding wires at the entry point must be connected by welding;
• When installing electrical wiring yourself, you should correctly calculate your strength (you may need to use the services of an electrician).

The article is intended for the average developer who is puzzled by age-old questions: where to start with this complex and incomprehensible electrician, how it will all happen, when you can start, where to look, who to invite...

Arrangement of electrical communications is the most important stage in the construction of a private house. It is absolutely obvious that you cannot begin installing electrical wiring without detailed design, and this statement applies not only to buildings under construction, but also to those undergoing reconstruction and major repairs. Not only the functionality of all energy-dependent devices and household appliances, but also the safety of people depends on the quality of planning and execution of electrical installation work. The owner, like no one else, is interested in thorough preparation, so it is not worth saving either time or money here.

The most optimal solution, of course, would be to order a project from a specialized organization, especially since well-developed documentation will help you calmly conduct a conversation with Rostechnadzor and business entities and put the facility into operation. The power supply project is the only document on which electrical installation can be carried out; its main purpose is to ensure the safety and efficiency of wiring already at the development stage. In fact, this is a whole package of documents containing the full amount of necessary information:

• wiring diagrams, conductor characteristics;
• installation methods and types of connection of all elements;
• indication of all equipment, consumer specifications;
• location and features of electrical installation products;
• load calculations...

Even if the owner of the home turns to professionals, he must provide the engineers with technical specifications, which means he must first understand many issues on his own. Now we will not try to make an “official” electrical project for a country house on our own, but we will try to outline all the main points, the systematization of which will help you:

• competently answer questions from designers;
• calculate the required power, redistribute limited energy resources;
• plan the order of electrical installation work and synchronize it with general construction work;
• predict your expenses;
• competently inspect hired specialists, or get to work yourself.

In general, our task is to completely eliminate the possibility of unpleasant surprises and keep everything under control in any situation.

Technical specifications - the starting point of design

Conventionally, the power supply of a country house is divided into three main parts: wiring in a residential building, organizing communications on the street, connecting outbuildings. Each of these areas should be considered separately and have its own electrical circuit and working drawings. To solve this problem, you need to set yourself (or the designers) a technical task. This is the original plan, which shows all the power consumers of the house and outbuildings, lighting devices, and simplified communication routes. As a rule, the preparation of technical specifications is the result of the joint work of the designer, the customer and the contractor performing electrical installation work.

Drawing up a technical specification and a project for it will allow:

• take into account all points of electrical outlets so that every household appliance or unit is powered;
• arrange sockets and switches in places convenient for use, and distribution boxes in places accessible for maintenance;
• calculate the total power consumption.

We need to first create separate drawings of each floor of the house and each room, which schematically shows all the partitions, door blocks with the direction of opening of the leaf, furniture elements, large stationary appliances (TVs, computer, electric fireplace, refrigerator, internal units of split systems, boiler, jacuzzi etc.). A prerequisite is the connection of consumers to the enclosing structures, so you should either complete the construction of internal partitions, or make an accurate and final marking of the layout directly at the site, and determine the level of the finished floor. Only after this can we take measurements and make complete floor plans, where we will mark all the terminals, each socket, switch, and lamp.

Special attention is paid to low-current networks - high-frequency TV, Internet, video surveillance, motion and presence sensors, stationary audio systems.

In some cases, local drawings are made for particularly stressed design and electrical components (specific walls, multi-level ceilings in individual rooms).

A very important point. To correctly draw up the technical specifications, it is necessary to have passports of all the main consumers; this is the only way to obtain reliable information about the dimensions of the products, methods of their connection, power, etc. For example, it is worth knowing in advance how many switching positions the chandelier in the living room will have (determines the number of wires conductor), or, for example, the specification of the hob (determines the cable cross-section, type and location of the terminal).

At this stage, it is necessary to take care not only of internal communications. We must not forget about: pumping stations; cleaning, air conditioning, ventilation systems; street lighting and outdoor sockets; anti-icing systems for gutters, steps; control and automation systems; backup/autonomous power supply.

When all consumers are known, the total load is calculated by simply summing the capacities. If the allocated energy resources are not enough, it is necessary to reconsider the equipment of the house and select more economical appliances. As a last resort, you can continue to develop the project and, based on it, request a larger limit from the electricity supplier.

Based on the technical specifications, you can make a list of necessary sockets, switches, and multi-gang frames. We recommend creating a general list by type of product, and several small lists to complete each room.

Let us note once again that the technical specifications cannot be drawn up while sitting at the table; more than half of this work is done by the homeowner “in the field” - with a tape measure in his hands, and the whole family behind his shoulder.

Making a schematic diagram of power supply

The schematic diagram is a very important and very complex part of the project, which is developed by specialists from electrical laboratories. This document is fundamental when planning and carrying out electrical installation work and when drawing up working drawings.

Our task is to create a simplified power supply diagram that will help us see the overall picture of the power supply at home. In fact, it can be a visual drawing, a drawing with symbols that will resemble a tree with a root in the form of a main distribution board and branches ending in individual sockets or lamps. The trunk is the highway, where the branches are separated - these will be additional panels or distribution (socket) boxes. Cables running directly from the switchboard to the device may be knocked out of the common outline. You can include circuit breakers and residual current devices in the circuit, then it will look something like this:

If the electrics of the house are very complex, then it makes sense to make a diagram of the power circuits and your own circuit for lighting, since they are always wired separately in the house.

If the cottage has three-phase power supply, then we make three different circuits. At the same time, in order to achieve power balance, based on the technical specifications (consumer power), the load should be evenly distributed on each of the phases - the devices and assemblies should be grouped proportionally.

We make working drawings

A working drawing is a document used by an on-site electrician to lay out cables. If the project is more focused on justifying the choice and coordination of certain technical solutions, then the working documents are intended for the implementation of this project. This is a hybrid of technical specification drawings and a circuit diagram. The working drawing is developed on the basis of the technical design and in strict compliance with the requirements of the PUE.

Here you need maximum detail for each room; sometimes they create their own working drawing for a specific wall. Separately, it is necessary to depict a working floor plan, which shows the highways and entries into specific rooms.

What should be indicated in the drawing:

1. Output points linked to walls, floors, ceilings; single and multi-point sockets; switches, lamps.
2. The lines indicate which lighting groups a specific switch key is responsible for.
3. Locations of distribution boxes and main points, group panels.
4. Wire routes.
5. Brand and cross-section of conductors.
6. Connecting a group to one phase or another.
7. Arrangement of low-current circuits.

Don’t forget to give the exact name to the room or unit for which the plan was made.

When making a working drawing, use color highlighting, mark groups and individual consumers with numbers, make notes and explanations. Network lines are drawn on the plan with thicker lines than for drawing building elements and stationary equipment. The number of conductors in one line is indicated by short inclined strokes-serifs directly on it. There is a generally accepted set of symbols, as well as established requirements for numbers and inscriptions used in electrical drawings. They are displayed in GOST 21.614-88.

Determining cable routing methods

Depending on the building design and types of finishing, it is necessary to decide on the methods of laying cables. For a private home, there are two main options:

• by gender
• along the ceiling

Wiring in the floor is possible if the screed has not yet been poured. The method has a number of advantages, including more economical cable consumption. Installation on the ceiling is possible if suspended structures are used. This wiring option allows for safe drilling of floors during future general construction work and makes it possible to carry out installation regardless of the type and condition of the floor. For wooden houses, open wiring is often used in channels or on insulators, including along walls.

To select the route for each line, you must:

• carry out a thorough inspection of the structure and technical condition of the building;
• plan ways to bypass/cross obstacles and technical communications;
• develop ways to move to different rooms/floors/outside.

Counting the power cable

Now that we have the exact location and specifics of electrical points, the communication routes have been determined, a decision has been made on the installation method, we have a schematic diagram and a working drawing on hand (which means we know where the distribution boxes will be and which consumers are powered by them) — we can accurately calculate the required quantity of each type of cable.

In a private house there must be grounding - therefore it is necessary to use a three-core wire with a soft copper conductor in double insulation. For sockets, wires with a core cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 are suitable, 1.5 squares are used for lighting, for powerful consumers (with connection to terminals) and for powering intermediate switchboards (storey panels, for individual buildings), cables of 4 mm 2 or even are often used by 6 mm 2. Note that the following consumers are traditionally connected directly to the switchboards, bypassing the boxes:

• engineering units and systems (pumping stations, air conditioners, heated floors, cleaning and anti-icing systems);
• powerful household appliances (oven, hob, boiler, washing machine, dishwasher, electric boilers and heaters).

Using a tape measure, measure the length of each conductor:

• from the shield to the junction box;
• from the switchboard to the consumer (with direct connection);
• from the box to the power consumer, to the switch, to the lighting device.

You should take into account the supply of wire for output from walls and junction boxes - from 15 to 25 cm, and the supply of wire near the electrical panel - up to 1 meter (if there is a large number of wires, some of them have to be run into the box from below, and some from above).

We make a list of all the wires for each room, give the name of the group or device in numbers, and designate them in accordance with the markings indicated in the working design. The work seems unnecessary and tedious, but it will still have to be done at the stage of preparing and laying cables.

Summing up the indicators, we get the need for cables and wires of various types. The same figures show how much protective corrugation, insulating pipes or cable ducts will need to be purchased.

Planning a distribution board

As we have already said, in a private house there can be several panels, this is the main input and distribution device, as well as simplified panels for floors and auxiliary buildings. Each of them is assembled according to approximately the same principle and contains a similar set of elements.

The number of installation products here can be very diverse, but you should always give preference to boxes with several spare “places”.

To ensure high-quality installation of shields, their design should be carefully considered. For this purpose, a special wiring diagram is created for each input-distribution device. The procedure is as follows:

1. We make a list of all incoming wires.
2. We indicate the load and maximum current for each of them.
3. We select a circuit breaker that corresponds to the characteristics of all items in the list.
4. We select residual current devices for several groups of consumers, but a fire protection RCD is installed on the entire system.
5. We make a working drawing.
6. We make a list of necessary protection devices and components.

Examples of electrical panel diagrams:

1—introductory machine; 2 - counter; 3 - zero bus; 4 - grounding bus; 5-9 - differential automatic machines; 10 - automatic lighting

1—introductory machine; 2 - counter; 3 - fire protection RCD; 4 - common zero bus; 5, 6, 12 — automatic devices for lighting; 7 - RCD for consumers 2, 3, 4; 8, 9, 10 — machines for consumers 2, 3, 4; 11 - additional zero bus; 13 — differential automatic; 14 - RCD for circuits 5, 6, 7; 15, 16, 17 — machines for consumers 5, 6, 7; 18 - additional zero bus; 19 - ground bus (conductors from lighting can also come here)

Attention! Switching of low-current networks cannot be done in power panels; separate boxes must be used for them.

We are planning the installation of electrical wiring

The main task of this stage is to coordinate the arrangement of power supply with other construction work. The second point is to logically organize the activities of the installer; optimize the processes of supplying materials, using special tools and devices; properly prepare the workplace.

Electrical installation work begins at the stage of rough general construction operations, usually in parallel with them. For example, cable routing along the floor is carried out before installing screeds, but on walls that are being plastered, it would be more rational to finish the rough finish, cut the grooves, then run the wires and fix the socket boxes. When covering walls and ceilings using frames, the cables are routed before installation of the cladding and remain in the cavity, and then holes are cut for the installation boxes and the ends are pulled out. Open wiring is done over finishing trims. The mechanisms of electrical installation products are installed after the main painting and cladding work; frames of sockets and switches, lighting fixtures are installed after finishing.

Electrical installation work is the least mechanized in construction, but some aspects can be optimized. For example, you can order a factory-made complete input distribution device, carry out a series of preparatory works in advance (marking, cutting and marking cables, pulling conductors into a protective corrugation, making grooves, installing line fastening elements in place, installing installation boxes, stripping and crimping ends). Many of these jobs can be done by less qualified personnel.

In capital construction, measured pieces of wires from one box are switched on a special preparation line, and then they are pulled to the installation boxes (nodal method). The second option is “beam”, when an electrical installation product is connected to a prepared wire (cut, stripped and crimped) on a stand, and then the cable is pulled to the junction box. In low-rise individual construction, due to the relatively small volume of work, these operations are not subject to industrialization, however, all of them must be carried out in accordance with current regulatory documents, such as PUE or SNiP 3.05.06-85 “Electrical devices”.

In a private house, manipulations to organize input will be mandatory. The developer raises a lot of questions regarding the arrangement of grounding. We list the stages of installation of the “interior” in chronological order (some operations can be performed simultaneously); for auxiliary buildings and street consumers, the order of their implementation does not change:

1. Marking the locations of installation products and routes of lines.
2. Cutting grooves and niches for installation and distribution boxes, preparing channels.
3. Making passages to various rooms.
4. Installation of boxes, socket boxes, boxes for ASU.
5. Preparing cables for installation.
6. Layout and fixation of power wires along their routes, marking of conductors.
7. Installation of lighting circuits.
8. Wiring of low-current networks.
9. Preparation and switching of conductors in junction boxes.
10. Assembly of distribution boards, switching.
11. Checking the system's functionality.
12. Installation of electrical installation mechanisms.
13. Second check, commissioning.
14. Installation of facades for sockets and switches.
15. Installation and connection of lighting devices, household appliances.
16. Connection of various power units, autonomous power supply devices and automatic transfer switches.
17. Connecting low-current consumers (antennas, fire and security sensors, routers and modems, audio system elements).

This is how we saw the planning of work on the design and installation of electrical networks for a country house. Of course, we were not able to cover all the nuances, but we hope that you were able to glean some useful information. In subsequent publications we will continue the “electric” theme.

If you decide to build your own house or simply make a major renovation, then you cannot do without installing or replacing electrical wiring. Drawing up a functional and practical power supply diagram is the initial stage of work. In order to make the installation process easier and faster, a schematic diagram of the electrical wiring is drawn up.

Why make a power supply diagram?

1. A detailed plan diagram allows you to calculate the amount of consumables;
2. Using a schematic diagram, you can clearly know where exactly and what consumer will be located (sockets, electric meter, input panel, etc.).

Electrical wiring diagram (power supply) in a private house

The figure below shows that an overhead power line (power line) is used to supply a 220-380 Volt network. From the installed pole, power lines are connected directly to the electrical panel: phase and zero (PEN).

Figure 1. Single-phase input plan

Electrical services have recently required the installation of electric meters directly on the street at the input electrical panel, where the RCD and automatic circuit breaker are also located.

Next, the electrical wiring is connected to the internal electrical panel of the mansion, from where the power supply to the mansion continues. There are several groups into which the main consumers of electricity can be divided:

1. Power (refrigerator, dishwasher, boiler, boiler, etc.);
2. Lighting (chandeliers, sconces, sapphires and others);
3. Household premises (utility rooms, basements, garages, etc.).

Each group must have its own circuit breaker and RCD.

Figure 2. Single-phase power line - location diagram.

1. input protective circuit breaker;

2. electric meter;

4. single-pole type circuit breaker;

5. bus zero;

Figure 3. Electrical wiring of the cottage - plan diagram

Figure 4. Electrical supply to your own home - schematic diagram

If you have a two-tier or large cottage, then it is best to use separate groups of consumers, be it rooms, floors or separate parts of the mansion.

Electrical wiring of a country house is a three-phase circuit.

If you use three-phase input to the house (L1, L2, L3), then the use of a protective neutral wire PEN will be necessary.

Figure 5. Location and connection of three-phase power supply of the mansion - diagram.

1 – three-phase protective circuit breaker at the input;

2 – electricity meter;

3 – RCD-selective;

4 – neutral wire;

5 – automatic single-pole switch;

6 – RCD for a separate group;

7 – grounding bus.

DIY apartment wiring diagram

The difference from the above-described scheme will be in the number of consumers, and also the input begins from the electrical panel on the floor via the existing cable line, as opposed to an overhead line, as for a house. At the same time, it is important to comply

To introduce electrical wiring into an apartment, a floor panel is needed, and it must also additionally have devices such as a meter and, accordingly, an input machine. In ordinary cases, each apartment has two power supply lines separate from each other. To protect each of the existing lines, they must be equipped with a protective fuse or automatic burst switch. Thanks to this, if a short circuit occurs on one of the existing lines, the apartment will not be de-energized and will be able to use electricity from the second line.

There are two types of electrical wiring you can use in your apartment: open or closed.

1. Open wiring involves the use of NYM or ShVVP wires;
2. Closed-type electrical wiring involves the use of cable or wire of almost any type.
3. Closed-type electrical wiring is divided into: removable and non-replaceable. The first is mounted directly inside pipes made of plastic. The second is installed under a layer of plaster.

In addition to the electrical panel on the floor (staircase), it is necessary to install a distribution panel in the apartment. Thus, you get a division of all premises into separate sectors of all consumers.

All electrical installation work begins with the circuit diagram. If you have a clear and well-thought-out diagram at hand, therefore, wiring electrical communications at home will be quite simple. In this article, we will discuss the question of how the electrical wiring diagram in a private home is drawn up, its potential purpose and advantageous factors.

A schematic representation of the locations of electrical consumers and wiring is necessary in order to first of all stock up on all the necessary materials for work. If you have a diagram, then you can quickly calculate the cross-section of the conductors, their length and the number of other elements (sockets, distributors, switches).

For work on introducing electrical supply into a house, it is necessary to attract special labor, and the installation diagram of electrical wiring in a private house must indicate how the cables were inserted. This will come in handy later.

In modern conditions and thanks to the development of various technologies, it is possible to conduct electricity into the house in two optimal ways:

• using underground laying of cables in a special insulating material;
• and by air, if the distance from the house to the support allows this. Otherwise, an additional pole is installed.

Speaking about the air input option, it should be emphasized that conductors come to the main transformer of the house:

• phase (L);
• combined protective and working zero (PEN).

Important! Thus, home improvement is provided with single-phase power.

According to new standards, they began to practice installing metering devices on the outside of the house, so in addition, a panel and a subsequent machine must be placed in the room itself. In such cases, it is also advisable to install an RCD to protect residents from electrical injuries.

A cable comes out from the input metering device and goes to the internal panel, and cables are directly routed from it throughout the house. For complete reliability of home electrification, the network should be divided into several subsystems: for individual rooms, for the kitchen or dining room and rooms with high humidity (bathroom, bathroom).

Please note that the number of machines in the electrical panel must correspond to the number of groups into which you divided the power supply. For large houses, it is necessary to divide the systems into each separate floor (if necessary, combine with a garage and outbuildings).

What to pay attention to when drawing up a diagram?

In fact, there is no basic algorithm for drawing up diagrams; all you need to do is meet your own needs and not invent anything. Consider the recommendations below when drawing up a diagram for electricity in the house.

1. When creating a circuit taking into account powerful consumers and household appliances, such as a washing machine, oven, refrigerator, it is necessary to take into account the installation of grounding. It is important to depict it on a diagram for clarity of execution of the work. Here it is advisable to use three-core conductors.
2. It is best to implement the prepared circuit with a cable structure with a cross-section of at least 2.5 square meters. mm. These sizes are ideal for installing sockets and lamps. Conductors with a cross section of 1.5 square meters are often used for lighting. mm.
3. Try not to overload the sockets; it is important that the total power of connected consumers to one source does not exceed 4.5 kW. Therefore, you need to make each socket separately for the intended device.

This is what a three-phase electrical wiring diagram looks like in a private house.

And this is a single-phase circuit, which is used no less often, despite the large number of electrical equipment in each home.

We follow the diagram and install the electrical wiring

In order to correctly transfer the created scheme into reality, it is important to follow this simple algorithm:

• First of all, we make precise markings of the walls. Using a mounting pencil, draw out the places where the wires will be located. Remember, they go strictly in a horizontal position with a vertical lowering or lifting to sockets or switches;

Important! You cannot install cables diagonally in order to save material.

• sockets and switches are located at a certain distance from the floor. Of course, no one uses the old version anymore, which means they should be installed at a height of 25-30 cm from the floor, and switches 80-90 cm.
• make grooves for the cable and socket boxes. Place these devices so that they are easy to use. Special fasteners are inserted into the finished grooves, but instead of them, plaster can be used, which will securely fix the wires in the channels, after which a layer of plaster is applied.

If the grooves provide for twisting of conductors, it must be done efficiently and requires additional insulation. To do this, you can use non-conductive tape or liquid insulation.

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