Everyone has more than four switches in their home. They work properly, but often break down at the most inopportune moment, or you simply decide to renovate your home and replace them with new models, and then you have to replace them. If you decide to do everything yourself, then in this article you will find detailed wiring diagrams for single-key and two-key switches, various recommendations and tips on this issue.
Single-key switch connection diagram
First, let's look at the wiring diagram for a single-key switch, since it is simpler and more common. Remember that to assemble the lamp connection diagram, in addition to the switch and wires, we also need a junction box in which the wires will be connected. You can connect them in different ways, but here we will look at simple twists. The photo below shows all the necessary elements: junction box, lamp socket and switch (already disassembled)...
Now we lay all the necessary wires:
- Wire from the panel to the junction box.
- Wire from the junction box to the switch.
- Wire from the junction box to the lamp socket.
Next, we cut all the ends of the wires and strip the wires. In the junction box it is necessary to strip the conductors by 3-4 cm to create a reliable twist, and in the socket and switch they need to be stripped by 5-8 mm to connect to the contacts.
We connect the wires to the switch and the socket (terminal block) of the lamp. In a switch, polarity does not play a special role. In the socket, the phase conductor must be connected to the central contact, and the neutral conductor to the side. If the terminal block in the lamp is removed from the socket, then it already indicates where to connect the phase, neutral and ground. Observe these values.
We assemble the switch and put the lamp in place...
Now you need to twist the wires in the junction box and not mix anything up. Here you should have three twists:
- We twist the neutral conductor coming from the shield with the neutral conductor going to the lamp.
- We twist the phase conductor coming from the panel with the phase conductor going to the switch.
- We twist the other conductor coming from the switch (it will be phase when you press the switch button) with the phase conductor going to the lamp.
Now for better contact and long service life of the connection, it is necessary to solder all the twists. Then we insulate them with electrical tape or PVC pipes and carefully place them in a distribution box, preferably so that they do not come into contact with each other.
In the photo I did not solder or insulate the twists. Excuse me.
Close the box and turn on the light!
That's not all...
In most cases, it happens that from this junction box it is necessary to connect the next box, and from this one you need to organize light in another room. Below I will show you in detail how this can be done.
It is necessary to insert a wire into the existing junction box and lay it to the next box.
To connect the next junction box (with a loop), it is necessary to twist the phase conductor going to it with the phase conductor coming from the panel, and the neutral conductor of the outgoing wire must be twisted with the neutral conductor coming from the panel. In the photo below you can clearly see this. Wire #1 is the incoming wire from the panel, and wire #2 is the outgoing wire to the next junction box.
Connection diagram for two-button switch
Below I propose to analyze the connection diagram for a two-key switch. There is nothing complicated here and you can figure it out, the main thing is not to mix up the wires. Here it is already necessary to run 3-core wires to the switch and to the chandelier.
Before connecting wires to a 2-key switch, be sure to look at the contact markings. The designation “L” means that the phase conductor coming from the distribution box must be connected to this contact. The designations “1” and “2” mean that it is necessary to connect phase conductors to them that go to different groups of lamps in the chandelier or to different lamps No. 1 and No. 2.
On my switch, which is shown in the photo, all three contacts are on the top. Things may be different for you. This depends on the manufacturer and model of the switch. They are different, but the designations on them are usually the same.
Now we twist the wire. The main thing here is not to confuse anything. In the photo below I signed everything in detail and everything is clearly visible there. Read more carefully and connect your wires the same way. You should have four twists. I showed schematically how to connect the wire to a chandelier or to different lamps. If something is not clear, write in the comments, we will figure it out together. Also keep in mind that a phase will flow through the wire from the switch to the box through all the wires and therefore it will not be possible to observe the color marking here.
We solder all the twists, insulate them and carefully place them in the junction box.
We assemble the switch and try to turn on the light, thereby checking the correctness of the assembled switch connection diagram.
Let's smile:
A drunk electrician buried his forehead in a pole.
A bare wire dangles nearby.
Electrician: - Nope...
He grabs the wire with his hand and jerks from the electric shock:
- All! Understood! Understood!
Good day, dear guests of the Electrician's Notes website.
A short preface.
Remember a few days ago I installed an apartment? So yesterday the owner of this apartment called me asking for help.
According to him, the “light” disappeared in the corridor. I also suggested to him over the phone to check the serviceability of the lighting lamp, but he told me that he had checked the lamp and it was working. Then I decided to visit him and see why there was no lighting in the corridor. But I told him that it was his, to which he convincingly assured me of the opposite.
Beginning of work
Here is a similar circuit, only instead of one light bulb, five are connected.
Attention!!! The switch should always break the phase, not the zero.
All this is necessary for our own sake. When replacing a lamp, it will be enough to turn off the switch, and there will be no voltage in the socket. Change it for yourself calmly. If you mix it up and switch the zero with a switch, then when you replace the lamp, it will remain energized in any case. And this is very dangerous. Read my articles about and (example).
Looking for a fault
Let's get back to the problem.
So, by unscrewing the light bulb from the socket (E27) and turning on the switch, we check with the help of whether the phase (orange color in the picture) is coming from the switch to the lamp or not. In our case, the phase does not reach the lamp. This indicates the following malfunctions. Either the switch itself is faulty, or there is a break from the switch to the lamp (see the switch connection diagram).
Having removed the key, we will see the screws securing the switch to the socket and the screws securing the wires to the switch. This is where we need to make sure there is a phase at the terminals.
To do this, we again use and measure the incoming and outgoing phases.
And here a “surprise” awaited us.
The phase came to the switch, but did not leave it. This indicates that the switch itself is faulty. Therefore it needs to be removed.
We turn off the voltage in the apartment using. By the way, this is a feature of this particular apartment. If you have several lines (groups) in your apartment, then accordingly turn off the machine of the line (group) where the work will be performed.
Then unscrew the screws securing the switch and carefully bend it. Please note that I have not yet unscrewed the screws securing the wires.
And what do we see?
And we see the following. One of the wires fell out of the switch terminal.
And we also see that it is completely absent. This was to be expected, because... quite old.
The reason for the falling wire is that the wire fastening screws are not tightened properly.
Completion of work
The fault has been corrected, the wire is inserted back into the terminal and the screws are tightened.
The switch is connected. All that remains is to insert it into and tighten the screws securing the switch.
Now you can check the work done. We turn on the voltage on the disconnected section of the circuit and check the operation of the single-key switch. Everything works fine.
P.S. Well, this is where we will finish the article, where I told you about the connection diagram for a single-key switch and how to troubleshoot electrical wiring.
During major renovations or construction of a facility, you need to think in advance about where the lighting fixtures and switches will be located. If you have already decided on their location, then it’s time to think about how to connect it all together and make it work correctly and properly for many years.
- Installation and connection of electrical installation devices, that is, and, is carried out only when the power supply is turned off.
- The electrical wire is laid only in a straight line, both horizontally and vertically.
- If the building is wooden, then it is laid on top of the wall. Direct contact of the electrical wire and the wall surface is not allowed. It is started either in, or mounted on special insulators that are made of non-conducting materials.
- In stone buildings, brick, panel, monolithic houses, electrical wiring is laid under the plaster.
An electrical wire consists of current-carrying cores and a sheath. There may be two or more wires in the electrical wire. Usually two and three-wire are used. One of the cores serves to create a continuous network. No voltage is supplied to it. It is called the empty or zero phase. The remaining cores are called working phases or cores. She or they supply electricity to electrical appliances.
Tools and materials for installation
What materials and tools will we need to install and connect the switch to the light bulb?
- Switch.
- Electrical wire. In our case, it does not matter which electrical wire will be used, copper or aluminum. But, if the entire electrical network of an apartment or house is made of copper wire, then you need to install copper wire. If it's made of aluminum, then it's aluminum.
- Distribution boxes. They are used for laying electrical connections. Don't be afraid to bet. When using boxes, the likelihood of breaking the integrity of connections is reduced, which means the risk of a short circuit is reduced.
- . We will need it to determine in the electrical wire, to check the presence of current in the network.
- Wire cutters. They will be needed to cut the wire.
- Pliers. With their help, stronger twists of wires are made.
- Electrical tape and gray tape. Wire connections, bare ends must be insulated. They are wrapped with electrical tape, then put on the PSI connection. It is a cap and ensures a secure connection.
- Fastening element. When working on wooden surfaces, you will need clamps. With their help, the corrugation is attached to the wall. When installing the wire on a stone surface, you will need clips, clamps, screws, and dowels. But the most reliable fastening element is still considered to be a strip cut from an aluminum can with a nail in the middle.
- Socket box. It is a device made of steel or made of polymer materials, shaped like a glass. The socket box is designed for installing a switch or socket.
- Hammer. It will be needed to open the plaster, in other words, to punch holes and make holes. If the switch is installed in a new place or for the first time, then you will also need a cutter the size of the bottom of the socket box. With its help, a hole is made in the wall, into which a socket box is then placed.
Deciding on the type of switch we need
The design of the switch is a housing in which a block with current-carrying elements and an interrupting device are installed. The most commonly used device is a key interrupt device. There can be one or more keys in the switch. Mostly one and two key switches are used.
There are several types of switches:
- Key switches
- . They are exactly the same as keyboards.
- Sensory
- Pulse
- and impulse switches
There is no need to describe each device separately. Since their installation is not fundamentally different from the installation of a single-key switch. This is exactly what we need to connect the light bulb. Let's return once again to its design.
The block of such a switch is equipped with two contacts and one interruption key. The design may include a mechanism for securing the block in the socket box. It usually consists of two metal petals, the position of which is adjusted using screws. In the free position the petals are lowered, in the open position they rest against the walls of the socket box.
Explanation of the wiring diagram for easier understanding
Let us describe the connection diagram for a switch operating with one lighting device, in our case a light bulb. It must be said that the switch is always placed on the working core, phase. That is, it interrupts the supply of electricity to the light bulb. Leaving it under constant load is dangerous.
Wires from the general apartment electrical network, wires coming from the switch and wires coming from the light bulb socket are brought into the distribution box. One of the cartridge wires is connected to the neutral conductor of the general electrical network, the second to the conductor of the wire coming from the switch. The second wire of the switch wire is connected to the working phase of the general electrical network. Thus, the working core of the cartridge is connected to the working core of the electrical network through a switch. When the switch is turned on, the load is supplied to the light bulb, and when turned off it is interrupted.
Marking installation locations for electrical appliances
Before starting installation work, you need to mark where the switch will be located, the electrical wire on the wall, ceiling, where the light bulb will be installed. Perhaps it will not stand on the ceiling, but on one of the walls. The switch is placed near the door leading to the room, at a distance of approximately 30 cm. If the room is a passage, then near the doorway leading to the adjacent room, at a distance of approximately 25 - 30 cm. The switch can be installed at a height from the floor, starting from 30 cm and up to 1.6m.
If we mount an additional light bulb on the wall, then the switch is placed at the level of the sockets. After marking the location of the switch, draw a straight line up to the ceiling. In this place you will need to place a distribution box. Mark the center of the room on the ceiling. A block will be installed here on which the wire with the electric cartridge is installed. From it we draw a straight line to the wall with the switch.
We draw another line along the wall to the place where the junction box will be located. By the way, at the junction of the wires running along the wall and along the ceiling, you also need to install a distribution box. Then we measure the length of the wire, cut the segments and proceed to installation.
We install the switch yourself
Installation begins with installing the switch. If we mount it on a wooden surface, then first we place a die made of a non-electrically conductive material, for example, plastic or well-dried wood. Then the junction box is installed. Then we connect the wire to the switch, insert it into the corrugation and attach it to the wall.
We install a special block on the ceiling that has two current-receiving contacts. It is also installed on the die. In the future, a wire with a light bulb will be connected to this block. We insert a piece of wire intended for the ceiling into a corrugated section and lead it to the wall with a switch. We put it on the wall into a separate junction box. We take another piece of wire, enclose it in a corrugation and lead it to the main junction box. Naturally, we fasten all the sections to the wall and ceiling.
Then we connect a wire with an electric socket and a light bulb to the block on the ceiling. Typically, such pads are equipped with a screw connection. The end of the bare wire can be inserted into the terminal and then pressed down with a bolt. It can also be connected directly with a bolt, that is, the ends of the wires are wound around the bolt and pressed against it. Next we twist the ends of the wires in the first junction box. For a stronger twist, you can use pliers.
We carefully isolate the twists and cover them with glazes. Then we turn off the power supply and open the ends of the common electrical network. Turn on the electricity again. Using an electric indicator screwdriver, we find the zero phase of the common network. When you touch the working core, the screwdriver indicator lights up. When you touch zero, no. We mark the zero phase and turn off the electricity.
Connecting wires in a junction box
We bring all the ends into the junction box, that is, the wires of the general network, the wires of the switch and the wires of the light bulb. . One end of the wire from the light bulb is connected to the neutral wire of the general network, the second - to one of the ends of the switch wire. The remaining free end of the switch wire is connected to the working core of the common network.
We twist all connections tightly using pliers and insulate them with electrical tape. We put sizes on top of the connections. We connect the electricity. Turn it on and check it. If the light comes on, close the boxes and use them. If not, check the connections. We will talk about possible malfunctions below.
Features of installing wires under plaster
Installation of a switch in a stone building has some differences from installation in a wooden house. Electrical wiring in such buildings is laid under the plaster. If the switch is installed on a plastered wall, then it is grooved, that is, using a hammer drill, a channel is laid in the plaster for laying the wire and installing a socket box. The plaster is removed up to the stone wall. All other installation steps on a plastered wall are exactly the same as on an unplastered wall.
Electrical installation in concrete walls without plaster
If the installation is carried out on a bare, unplastered wall, then first, using a hammer drill equipped with a cutter, make a recess for installing a socket box. It is secured in this recess using dowels or alabaster. The wire is attached to the wall using clamps, clips, or using the homemade fasteners described above. There is no need to spare the fasteners. It should be placed at a distance of no more than 20 cm from each other. Distribution boxes are also attached to the wall using self-tapping screws and dowels.
Gutters in slabs - electrician's assistants
Floor slabs in stone houses have gutters inside. The electrical wire to the light bulb placed on the ceiling runs through one of these gutters. To do this, use a hammer drill to punch two holes. One is at the point where the wire enters the slab. The other is in the place where the block for mounting the socket and light bulb will be located. The block to which the electric socket with the light bulb will be attached is placed on the die.
If the die is wooden, then it is simply glued to the surface of the ceiling. If it is made of other materials, then it is either glued or fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. The housing is removed from the switch, connected to the wire and secured in the socket box. For this purpose, there is a fastening mechanism on the switch block. The bolts in the mechanism are tightened so that the switch stands firmly in the socket and does not swing.
Then twist all the connections and insulate them. Then they mark the zero core of the general network and turn off the electricity. Next, connect the switch and light bulb to the general network according to the diagram described above. The zero core of the working network is connected to the zero phase of the light bulb. The ends of the switch wire are connected to the working core of the general network and to the working core of the light bulb. Carefully isolate and turn on the electricity. Turn on the switch and check. It's lit, you can use it. No, we're checking the connections. After installation is completed, the surfaces are plastered.
Before starting plastering work, the switch is removed. It is installed finally after finishing the wall surface. During the procedure, the exposed ends are isolated. And the socket is closed with something.Installing a light bulb on the wall
Installing a switch for a light bulb mounted on the wall is not fundamentally different from the installation described above. If there is no distribution box installed on the wall and no wire laid, then you will have to pull it from the general distribution box. And the connection diagram is the same. We put the box into it, put wires from the general network, a switch and a wall device into it, connect the light bulb to the zero core of the general network, the switch from the working core of the light bulb and the general network. After installation is completed, the corrugation in which the wire is laid should be covered with a decorative box.
Possible faults
If after installation the light bulb does not light up, then it is possible that the wires are poorly twisted. You need to check the connections. To do this, there is no need to check each one. You need to start with the wires entering the switch. We take an indicator screwdriver and check whether electricity is supplied to the switch. Using a screwdriver, touch one by one to the ends of the wire entering the switch. If the indicator is not lit, then there is a problem with the connection to the public network.
Once again we twist the wires connecting the operating phases of the switch and the general network, having first turned off the power. Let's check again. If current is supplied, but the light bulb still does not light, then the fault is either in the switch or in the rest of the electrical circuit.
If the switch is working properly, the indicator should light up when you touch both of its contacts. If the indicator lights up on only one of the contacts, then the switch is faulty. It's better to replace it immediately. A defective item will not last long. If the switch is working properly, we check each connection until we find the fault.
Detailed explanation in video format
Many homeowners have to replace or install light switches. Most often used single-key switch connection diagram- one of the simplest schemes for turning on lamps or lamps. This article describes step by step how such a scheme is assembled.
Before starting any work related to electricity, the first thing you need to do is de-energize the electrical wiring - turn off the input circuit breaker, and also take measures to ensure that no one accidentally turns it on.
This is especially important if the electrical panel is located on a landing in a multi-story building or on the street.
For installation and switch connections you will need:
- - the switch itself;
- - distribution box;
- - connecting wires;
- - insulating PVC tape.
Connection diagram for a switch in a distribution box
Connecting a wire directly to a light fixture or switch is quite simple - it doesn't require any explanation.
This article will discuss how to connect wires from a lamp, electrical panel and switch in one junction box.
Once again we would like to remind you that all work on connecting wires in the distribution box, connecting switches and lamps should begin only after the mains voltage has been removed.
By following this simple rule, when the switch breaks exactly the phase and not the zero, you will ensure your safety and also make it safe to operate electrical equipment in your apartment.
If the switch disconnects from the load not the phase, but the neutral wire, then the wiring will always remain energized, which is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous.
For example, you need to replace a light bulb that has burned out in a chandelier. If the switch turns off the neutral wire and not the phase, if you accidentally touch the current-carrying parts of the chandelier or the base of the light bulb, you may get an electric shock, since these parts are under phase voltage.
You can determine the phase wire in the distribution wiring using an indicator screwdriver.
Again, for safety reasons, the phase wire (usually red) must be connected to the lamp socket in such a way that the light bulb is connected to the phase by the central contact of the base.
This reduces the likelihood that a person will touch the phase wire.
Switch connection diagram consists of one or more light bulbs connected in parallel, a single-gang switch, a distribution box and a 220-volt power source.
Specialized stores offer a wide range of wires for electrical wiring, so for phase and zero it is better to take wires of different colors, for example, red and blue.
So, a two-wire cable runs from the distribution board to the distribution box. It is very convenient if it is two-colored, for example, the phase wire is red and the neutral wire is blue.
In addition, a cable from the lamp and a cable from the switch are suitable for the junction box. The phase wire from the distribution board (red) is connected to the red wire going to the switch.
The second (blue) wire from switch is connected to the red wire, which is connected to the load (lamp, chandelier). As a result, we made the phase that goes to the lamp commutated.
The neutral wire (blue) from the electrical panel is connected to the neutral wire, which goes to the load (light bulb).
The result is that the neutral wire from the junction box goes directly to the light bulb, and the phase is connected to the light bulb through a switch.
The scheme works as follows. When you press the switch key, the circuit is closed, and the phase from the electrical panel is supplied to the lamp, its light bulb begins to shine. By pressing the key again, the electrical circuit is broken and the light bulb turns off.
After all connections, the twisting points are thoroughly insulated and neatly laid. It is best to connect the wires in the junction box by twisting and soldering.
Connection diagram for socket and switch in one junction box
Very often, a distribution box is installed in each room of the apartment, where all the switches, lamps and sockets of this room are connected.
In this case, due to the large number of wires going to the junction box, it is quite difficult to figure out what needs to be connected where.
How to connect a socket and switch to a distribution box?
Let's consider the option when a socket and a lamp are simultaneously connected to one distribution box.
So, two wires come from the distribution board to the box - red (phase) and zero (blue).
The procedure for connecting the switch and lamp is exactly the same as discussed above.
The socket is connected parallel to the supply wires: the socket phase is connected to the supply phase (both wires are red), and the zero from the socket is connected to the neutral supply wire (both wires are blue).
The connected wires must be well crimped and soldered, after which they are securely insulated and neatly placed in the box.
Electrical wiring of any room, be it a huge country house or a small outbuilding (basement, garage, country house), includes three main elements - a switch, a socket and a light bulb. While they remain relevant always and everywhere. During repairs, construction or redevelopment, you will definitely encounter them. Therefore, basic knowledge of electrical engineering will not be superfluous - what is the connection diagram for a switch and socket, how does it work and what materials and tools will be required for its installation?
Below are detailed step-by-step instructions, with the guidance of which even a not very experienced electrician will be able to install sockets and switches with his own hands.
What is needed to switch the circuit?
Electrical wiring can be open or hidden. In this article we will consider the connection of sockets and switches made according to the second option, when all electrical switching is hidden under a layer of plaster. Hidden design is the most common type of electrical wiring; open wiring is usually used as a temporary option.
Preparing the walls
Before connecting a socket and switch in the room, you need to prepare holes in the wall for their installation and grooves in which the wires will be laid. There should be three holes in total - for the junction box and for the connected switching devices.
It’s better to draw an approximate drawing on a piece of paper in advance, where exactly you plan to connect the switch and socket, and what route the wires will take to these places.
The hole for the distribution box is made, as a rule, under the ceiling, 10-15 cm lower. Holes for switching devices are made at the site of their planned installation. It is better to install the socket at a distance of 30 cm from the clean floor, where household appliances will be connected to it. It is advisable to install the switch at the entrance to the room at the level of an adult’s lowered hand - about 90 cm from the clean floor. These works are performed with an electric drill with a special bit for brick or concrete, a hammer drill with a Pobedit drill, an impact drill or an angle grinder.
When installing gates, consider several important rules:
- They can only be horizontal or vertical; no tilting is allowed.
- The entire path of the groove from the distribution box to the installation sites of the socket and switch must pass with a minimum number of turns.
- Vertical grooves cannot be brought closer to window and door openings less than 10 cm, and to gas pipes - less than 40 cm.
To install the grooves, you can use a hammer and chisel, a hammer drill, a grinder or a special tool - a wall cutter.
When all the holes and grooves are ready, thoroughly clean them of dust using a vacuum cleaner.
Installation elements and tools
To perform the electrical part of the work you will need the following materials and tools:
- distribution (socket) box, in which all wires are connected;
- two plastic or polypropylene mounting boxes (socket boxes), they are needed in order to securely fasten the switching devices in the wall openings;
- indoor socket;
- indoor switch with one key;
- lighting fixture;
- set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
- knife or stripper for removing insulation from conductors;
- pliers with insulated handles;
- clamps or insulating tape;
- indicator screwdriver.
To switch the entire electrical circuit, you will also need a two-core wire. Nowadays, electrical goods stores offer a huge assortment of wires and cables, so immediately buy one so that each core has its own colored insulation, for example, red and blue. This will make it easier to switch the circuit; you won’t have to look for phase and zero with instruments, you’ll just need to connect wires of the same color.
In order to fix the wires laid in the grooves, you will also need alabaster and a spatula.
Connection diagram
The electrical circuit represents a parallel connection to the power source of a lighting fixture with a light bulb, a switch and a socket.
Preparatory work
Before starting any electrical work, secure your work area. Turn off the opening machine for the apartment. It’s good if it is already at the entrance to the apartment, that is, you will be sure that by turning it off, no one will be able to turn the machine back on. If the automatic device is located on the landing in a common panel, turn off the automatic device in your apartment and hang a “Do not turn on!” sign. or put someone in control. You can't joke with electricity!
After turning off the machine, you need to once again make sure that there is no voltage, now using an indicator screwdriver. First, check its working condition in an area that is known to be energized, for example, at the entrance to the machine. The indicator lights up after touching the phase, which means it is in good condition. Now touch the indicator screwdriver to the cores of the power wire, which is brought into the apartment from the machine; there should be no glow. This means that the tension has been relieved and work can begin.
Lay the wires in the grooves made, leading them to the wall holes. At the same time, leave the ends of 10-15 cm for cutting the cores, do not regret it, it is better to make a slightly larger reserve than to suffer later when connecting and connecting. Install a distribution box and socket boxes in the holes; use plaster or alabaster to securely fix them.
Electric installation work
Place a two-wire cable from the mains supply (phase and neutral) into the junction box. Three wires must be laid from the box: one to the switch, the second to the lamp, the third to the outlet.
For a wire whose cores have different insulation colors, red indicates phase, blue indicates zero.
The switch has an input and output contact; a phase conductor is connected to the input. Connect the second core to the output contact of the switch.
A two-wire wire must also be laid to the lamp. The lamp socket has two contacts. The central spring contact (phase) is used to directly supply voltage to the light bulb. The side contact in the socket is zero, the lamp will come into contact with it after screwing in with its base.
Another two-wire wire is laid from the junction box to the outlet. This switching device has a contact part consisting of two terminals to which phase and zero are connected.
The connection diagram for the switch, lamp and socket in the distribution box is as follows:
- Connect the neutral conductor from the supply wire with the neutral conductors going to the lamp and socket.
- Connect the phase conductor from the supply wire with the phase conductors going to the switch and socket.
- Connect the remaining core from the output contact of the switch to the phase core of the lamp.
All connections must be made as firmly as possible to ensure reliable contact. This can be done the old fashioned way - by twisting, which it is also advisable to solder on top. There are also more modern devices: special blocks (in which the wire is clamped under a screw) or PPE (connecting insulating clamps).
For more information about connecting wires in a junction box, watch this video:
Checking the circuit and completing the work
Move all the twists in different directions so that they do not touch each other and check the operation of the assembled circuit. Turn on the input circuit breaker for the apartment, thereby supplying voltage from the power source to the newly mounted distribution box. The switch is in the “off” position, the lamp does not light, which means everything is correct, the phase is open. Now press the switch key to the “on” position, the electrical circuit is closed and voltage is supplied through it from the power source to the lamp, the light bulb lights up. There will be constant voltage at the outlet; you can check its operation by connecting any electrical appliance. Plug the hair dryer, radio or electric kettle into the outlet and check its operation.
Now turn off the input circuit breaker again and securely insulate the twisted areas with electrical tape; you can also put PVC pipes on top. Carefully place all the connected wires in the box so that it can then be closed with a lid.
All that remains is to securely place the switch and socket in the socket boxes, secure them, and put protective covers on top. The distribution box is also covered with a lid; during any repair work, never hide it under wallpaper or plaster. Remember, the distribution box should always be accessible, no matter how much it spoils the overall appearance of your room.
Very important! Before connecting the switch, make sure that you are connecting exactly the phase conductor to its input contact, and do not confuse it with the neutral conductor. The switching device should only operate on phase break. Otherwise, voltage will always be present in the lamp socket, even when the switch is in the off position. And this creates the danger of getting under voltage when simply replacing a burnt out light bulb.
Also keep in mind that if the lighting fixture and socket are structurally grounded, then their electrical circuit will require a three-core wire. The same wire of three cores should also come to the junction box from the power source. Typically, the grounding conductor is indicated in green or yellow; in the same way, in the box you will need to connect three protective grounding conductors into one twist - from the power source, socket and lamp.
Other scheme options
In a similar way, you can connect a socket, a two-key switch and two groups of lighting fixtures from one power source. In this case, the distribution box will receive two wires from two output contacts of the switch and two phase conductors from the lamps. The same as in the example described above, only there will be one more twist in the box.
If you need to install a three-key switch and three groups of lamps, then three wires from the three output contacts of the switch and three phase conductors from the lighting devices will arrive in the distribution box. There will be 5 twists in total in the box:
- Zero supply network with zero wires of the socket and lamp.
- Power supply phase with phase conductors of socket and switch.
- And three twists of phase wires extending from each switch key and group of lamps.
In the case of protective grounding, another twist will be added. Sometimes it can be quite problematic to arrange twisted wires in a junction box. Now on the electrical goods market you can select options specifically designed to accommodate a large number of wires and cables.
This is how you can easily connect a socket and a switch from one junction box. The main thing is to try to understand this very simple scheme. And then all further electrical circuits will be clear to you. As a result, you will get quite a decent cost savings on calling a professional electrician.
