With the advent of winter cold, the egg production of chickens falls. This is due to a decrease in daylight hours and a drop in temperature. Having carried out simple work on warming the chicken coop, you can support the layers, create comfortable conditions for them, and thus provide the family with eggs even in the cold season. Consider what conditions chickens need for wintering, how to properly insulate the chicken coop.
In winter, egg prices in stores rise steadily, as in order to maintain egg production, you have to spend money on lighting and maintaining heat in chicken coops. Although chickens are unpretentious, they can withstand a significant drop in temperature, they do not want to rush in such conditions.
Features of the life of chickens at different temperatures:
- Chickens can live comfortably at room temperatures as low as 15°.
- It is permissible to release chickens for walking at temperatures up to -10 ° for no more than 1-2 hours.
- Chickens rush without reducing productivity, with indicators of 23-25 °. If the temperature is lower, the number of eggs decreases. Below 15 °, the egg production of chickens drops markedly. Below 5 ° hens do not lay.
The cost of obtaining eggs in winter increases significantly, many consider keeping laying hens in winter to be of little use. In order to have domestic eggs in frosts, the chicken coop will have to be insulated for the winter.
Important: when preparing the chicken coop for winter, it will be necessary to insulate, disinfect the room, provide lighting and ventilation.
How to insulate the floor?
Cold air sinks down, so insulating the floor in the chicken coop is the most important task. A thick layer of heat-insulating material will provide chickens with a comfortable stay indoors. The cheapest and most effective way to make the floor warm is natural bedding. You should not feel sorry for the material - a thin layer will not cope with the task.
The layer should be 10-15 centimeters. Chickens will be happy, because they love to dig with their paws in the husk and earth.
moss peat
Perfectly absorbs moisture and litter marsh moss peat. The legs of chickens remain dry and healthy, fungal diseases and dermatitis develop less often. Peat absorbs the smell characteristic of chicken coops.
The use of peat protects against general unsanitary conditions indoors. After replacing the litter, the peat is preserved, it will still be an excellent fertilizer for the beds.
Straw
Straw serves as an excellent heat insulator for the floor. For chicken coops, it is combined with hay, which makes the layer soft, fragrant. Useful herbs will additionally protect chickens from infections. It is important to find clean fresh straw and dry grass, with no signs of decay and high humidity.
Shavings and sawdust
A pleasant material for chicken legs is wood shavings. They have a lot of useful properties:
- absorb moisture;
- aromatize the room;
- shavings of coniferous trees emit essential oils - they disinfect chicken coops, protect laying hens from diseases.
The shavings are combined with sawdust in a ratio of 3 to 1. The litter in the chicken coop is regularly stirred, and a new layer is added when caking.
We insulate the walls
If the owners dream of getting eggs all winter, it is necessary to insulate the walls. Most chicken coops are built of wood, the thickness of the walls is usually determined by the climate of the region. Log and plank walls need to be insulated. The building is thermally insulated from the street and the inside, using different types of materials.
The most effective way to keep the chicken coop warm is to build a crate of timber and lay insulating material inside. In modern conditions, these are usually synthetic fillers - mineral wool, foam plastics. You can use natural - straw, sawdust.
Hay and sawdust
Before laying in the walls, natural materials are thoroughly dried, mixed with slaked lime in the proportion of 1 part of calcium hydroxide to 25 parts of the insulator.
A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the walls inside the chicken coop, the seams are fastened together. Then the boards are laid tightly butt on top. Between the boards and the vapor barrier, the main material is poured - hay, sawdust, straw, dry foliage, coniferous needles. Tamp tightly.
mineral wool
To fix the mineral wool, a crate is installed with a distance between the bars less than the width of the material by 1-2 centimeters. A vapor barrier is placed on the wall, sheets of mineral wool are tightly butted, and they are attached to the wall. Another layer of vapor barrier is covered with mineral wool on top, it will retain moisture coming from the chicken coop.
Styrofoam
Excellent lightweight material with a fine mesh structure that retains heat due to air bubbles inside the polymer. Supplied in handy sized sheets. They are attached to the wall of the chicken coop with plastic "mushrooms" with wide caps that do not destroy the plastic material. For each sheet use 2 "mushrooms".
A vapor barrier is laid on both sides of the foam, the sheets can not be connected to each other.
polyurethane foam
Lightweight insulation material based on polyurethanes. Possesses low vapor permeability and high waterproofing properties. It is produced in the form of plates, building foam, which quickly hardens.
To insulate the chicken coop, you can use any option - the plates are attached to the walls, the gap between the wall and the plank crate is filled with mounting foam.
Reference: any kind of finishing material is placed on top of the insulation and battens - non-corrugated slate, drywall, lining. Finishing helps protect the insulation from chickens that love to peck at everything.
How to insulate windows and doors with your own hands?
Heat escapes from the chicken coop due to drafts, through ill-fitting doors and windows. In order not to freeze the chickens, before a cold snap, work is carried out to seal the cracks, restore the integrity of the door and window frames.
During construction, a double frame is provided for the window. The opening itself is best done from the south or east side in order to increase the flow of light. When cold weather sets in, a sheet of dense polyethylene is attached to the frame, filling the gaps with foam rubber or felt.
The door frame is insulated around the perimeter with felt or dense fabric tape, the threshold is raised so that it does not blow on the floor. The door is upholstered on both sides with insulation - an old carpet, carpet, felt.
The main thing is not to overload the door so that it does not lead in the frame.
Ceiling and roof insulation
So that the warm air rising up does not leak through the ceiling and roof of the chicken coop, they are carefully sealed using hydro and vapor barriers. Use heat-insulating materials with a thickness of 5-15 centimeters.
The sequence of work for the roof:
- Waterproofing is laid under the roofing material. It is attached to the beams with a construction stapler, the joints are connected with adhesive tape.
- They lay insulation (mineral wool, foam plastic) so that the sheets do not fall out, pull the rope or twine between the rafters.
- Cover with a vapor barrier fabric, sealing the joints with adhesive tape.
- On top of the insulation protection, a decorative finish is laid - drywall, plywood.
The same materials are used to insulate the ceiling. To prevent the insulation from getting wet, put a vapor barrier film. If the attic is not used, cheap bulk materials can be used for insulation - sawdust, shavings. Most often put mineral wool or polystyrene. The cracks are sealed with polyurethane glue.
A ventilation gap is left on top of the thermal insulation and boards, plywood sheets are laid on which you can walk or lay food for chickens, inventory.
Heating systems
Even in an insulated chicken coop, hens cannot maintain the temperature necessary for the production of eggs with their warmth. In most regions, laying hens will please with an abundance of eggs only in heated rooms.
If the chicken coop is located near the house where the family lives permanently, it is most cost-effective and safe to connect it to the house heating system. It is advisable to build a chicken coop near the house so as not to pull and insulate pipes with water.
Consider which heating systems it is advisable to use in chicken coops, how experienced amateur poultry houses heat their laying hens.
Potbelly stove or brick oven
The simplest and most affordable option is a brick oven or potbelly stove. Heating requires a boiler or stove and a chimney. Advantages:
- simple installation;
- simple inexpensive fuel;
- easy care.
Significant disadvantages of this type of heating are almost open fire and, as a result, low fire safety. From an accidental spark, the chicken coop bedding can quickly flare up. In addition, the fuel has to be constantly thrown up, which is possible only for those who are at home most of the time and can keep track of the chickens.
Diesel oven
Diesel-fueled chicken coop stoves are safer, have a temperature control, which allows you to maintain heat at the right level. They are smokeless, do not poison the air with an unpleasant odor.
When choosing a diesel oven, a power calculation is required to ensure that the chicken coop is heated correctly. You must always have a supply of fuel. For many, diesel prices are too high to operate diesel stoves.
Installing and buying a stove for heating chickens also requires significant costs.
Radiator
Radiators are a safe and convenient way to heat your chicken coop. Electric radiators do not require the constant presence of the owners, they supply a constant flow of heat, its intensity can be set by the regulator.
If necessary, they put an additional device for heating chickens, the radiators are mobile, they can be moved to the right place.
The obvious disadvantage is high electricity bills, which many cannot afford. When installing radiators, it is necessary to take all the wires into special boxes, install reliable electrical outlets so that curious chickens do not damage the equipment and do not suffer themselves.
infrared lamps
Using electrical appliances to heat the chicken coop, the easiest way to reduce costs is with the help of infrared lamps. These devices do not heat the air, but directly the objects to which they are directed. Advantages of infrared lamps:
- ease of installation;
- complete security;
- low energy consumption;
- positively affect the health of chickens, protect against infections;
- a large selection of types - stationary and mobile, panel, film.
With the help of lamps, it is convenient to heat individual places, directing them, for example, only to chickens. Among the shortcomings, experienced poultry farmers note the high price, the need to have a constant supply, since the lamps often fail.
Many people keep chickens for the summer, but, getting used to the delicious eggs from their laying hens, decide to keep the bird in the winter. Insulation of the chicken coop helps to provide the chickens with a comfortable and safe existence in the cold season, and the owners to eat healthy and tasty eggs all year round.
How to insulate a chicken coop for the winter if this was not done during its construction? This process is simple, but it is better to foresee it in advance and carry it out along with the construction of the building.
In order for poultry to gain weight well and bring a sufficient number of eggs, it requires not only proper and timely feeding, but also the creation of optimal conditions. If this is not observed, then all the costs of buying young animals and feed will be in vain. In the case when it is planned not only summer, but also winter raising of chickens, the room for their residence must be insulated.
Materials and place for building a chicken coop
In order for the chicken coop to function normally and not begin to collapse in the next year, first you need to choose a suitable place for its construction. This process does not require long and complex calculations - just the house must be installed on a hill or at least on a flat area of the yard, but not in a lowland. The reason is simple - in this place there is always high humidity due to the accumulation of water during the rains and the melting of snow, the morning fog is longer and thicker.
It is also recommended to build a chicken coop away from residential buildings in order to protect the owners as much as possible from rather unpleasant odors in the summer, when the windows in the house are often open.
- Wood is the most popular material for — environmentally friendly material, and this is necessary in order for the products obtained from poultry to be useful for humans. In addition, wood has its own natural warmth, unlike all other building materials. Therefore, most often bars and boards are bought for construction.
- But the floors in the chicken coop are often made of concrete, as they will last a longer period, and it will be easier for them to make regular sanitary care. In addition, in order to raise the walls above the ground, you need to arrange a shallow foundation - this will help protect the structure from deformations, distortions with the appearance of cracks, and this is also very important to maintain the desired temperature inside the room.
- In addition to boards for wall cladding, wooden blocks will be required for the construction of the frame and the patio for walking, as well as for the construction of the base under the roof.
- For the courtyard, you will also need a chain-link mesh, from which not only the fence is made, but also the so-called roof, which does not allow the bird to leave the borders certain territory for her. You can do it differently - instead of a grid, make a common roof over the chicken coop and over the courtyard. It's even better - the walking area will receive at least some protection from the rain.
- And, of course, you will need to purchase insulation - it can be polystyrene or mineral wool, as well as one of the modern materials. And for warming the concrete floor, it is best to use a fairly large fraction.
- If outbuildings with main walls are already located on the site, and next to one of them there is enough space for an extension, then you can significantly save on materials and work time. It can also be noted here that it is easier to insulate a capital finished wall than a newly erected one, because it no longer shrinks and does not deform.
- Another important point is the choice of roofing material, since the roof structure arranged under it will largely depend on the type of coating. In any case, the roof will also require insulation material.
Build Options
When calculating the area of \u200b\u200bthe chicken coop being built, you need to immediately decide where the heater will be located. If the insulation is located outside or inside the walls, then the usable area is calculated based on the accepted optimal ratio - 1 sq. meter for five birds. In the event that it is planned to fix it from the inside, the total area of \u200b\u200bthe building must be increased by the thickness of the insulation.
The foundation should be wider than the walls by 120 ÷ 150 mm, while the wall should be in the middle of the width of the foundation. A concrete reinforced foundation will not only help maintain the insulation of the building, but also protect it:
- From damage to the wooden elements of the structure, which may occur under the influence of moisture emanating from the ground. The concrete foundation will significantly extend the functionality of the building.
- From the possible penetration of various animals inside the chicken coop, which can easily dig under the wooden base of the structure - this can be a fox, rats and other predators. Given this possibility, the foundation can be raised above the ground by 250 ÷ 300 mm.
There are other options that help keep the bottom of the chicken coop from "visits" of unwanted guests. For example, you can raise its floor above the ground by 200 ÷ 250 mm by arranging a columnar foundation. Another way to protect can be metal sheets that sheathe the lower part of the building, sinking them into the ground by 300 ÷ 350 mm.
The process of building and insulating a poultry house
Starting the construction of a chicken coop, first mark the territory for the foundation or foundation of the building. The place is limited with the help of driven pegs and stretched twine. Inside this markup, the foundation for the chicken coop will be installed and the courtyard will be placed. You can also make a foundation for installing a patio fence by connecting it to the base of the chicken coop.
Foundation
- The construction of the foundation begins with the digging of a trench. Since the chicken coop is not a heavy building, a strip foundation or a column foundation is suitable for it. The second loses in the sense that the floor of the chicken coop will require more intensive insulation, since there will be free space under the house, and in cold weather the wind will walk there, cooling down the poultry room.
The width of the trench should be 100 ÷ 150 mm more than the intended width of the foundation, the depth should be approximately 400 ÷ 450 mm.
- At the bottom of the trench, a pillow of 70 ÷ 100 mm from sand and the same from gravel must be laid. The material is packed very carefully.
- Next, formwork is installed in the prepared trench. It should have the height to which it is planned to raise the walls of the chicken coop from the ground. In this case, the upper edge of the formwork can serve as a kind of beacon for leveling the mortar.
- A dense polyethylene film is laid and fixed on it with staples, which waterproofs the concrete structure from ground and atmospheric moisture.
- Then, a reinforcement structure is installed in the prepared trench. There is no need to be too zealous - two or three bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm are enough, since no large loads are expected.
- A concrete solution is being prepared (cement + sand in the usual ratio - 1: 3). You can also use crushed stone of a fine fraction. The solution is poured into the formwork, leveled and left to mature. In the early days, it is advisable to moisten it with water so that the surface does not crack when it hardens.
- After the foundation has completely dried and gained strength, a waterproofing material is laid on top of it. It will also keep wooden structural elements and insulation material from moisture penetration, which means it will prolong their functionality.
chicken coop floor
The space framed by the foundation, intended for the building of the poultry house itself, must be cleared of the topsoil. Instead, expanded clay is poured, which will be an excellent insulation for the floor. Then a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of this insulation, a concrete screed with a thickness of not less 20 mm. Concrete is leveled by the rule and left to dry and harden. It sometimes makes sense to make a light, almost imperceptible slope to one of the sides - this will facilitate cleaning in the chicken coop - the water will be drained to one place.
Each of the owners prefers to equip the courtyard in their own way. Some believe that the soil should not be covered with a concrete screed, since the bird should walk in natural conditions. The bird loves to dig the ground, looking for worms, small pebbles or plant seeds. It is believed that such conditions help chickens grow faster and make them more resilient.
Other owners believe that it is better to make the yard also concrete, for reasons that it is easier to clean and it will last a longer time. On such a floor, periodically change the bedding of shavings, dry grass or straw.
Straw - heat insulator for the floor Frame erection
The frame begins to be erected by laying a strapping of timber around the entire perimeter of the future chicken coop. The beam is taken approximately 100 × 150 mm in size. It is attached to the foundation with anchor bolts. Between themselves at the corners, the strapping bars are fastened for rigidity with metal corners.
It is necessary to consider what shape the roof will have. Usually, for outbuildings, a shed version of the roof is chosen. In order not to make additional add-ons later, it is better to immediately make the frame of the front wall higher than the rear one, and adjust the side walls under them, thereby forming the slope angle. The rigidity of the side walls will give a transverse beam.
Having solved the issue with the height of the house and the angle of the roof slope, you can proceed to the construction of the frame.
- To begin with, a vertical bar is raised in the corners, which is also screwed to the lower trim with massive corners that can hold this rack in a perfectly vertical position.
- Next, the corner vertical posts are connected on top strapping, also made of timber of the same section. Then, taking into account the width of the mats or a roll of insulation, markings are made, and intermediate battens are installed on it. They are also best attached to the harness using special metal corners.
- When making a frame, you need to remember that in the chicken coop room there should be not only a front door for a person, but also a small window for natural light, as well as a small bird door leading to a walking yard. Therefore, for these elements, it is necessary to additionally fix the bars, which will form the corresponding openings.
- Having made a frame with ten, you must immediately put rafters on them for the future roof. Between the rafters there should be a distance equal to the width of the insulation used.
roof decking
- A film is laid on the laid and fixed rafters, which keeps the insulation from getting wet and from condensate that collects under the roof due to temperature changes. Waterproofing is fixed with brackets using a construction stapler. Its role may well be performed by an ordinary dense polyethylene film (at least 200 microns thick). The strips are overlapped, not less than 200 mm, and they must be fastened together with waterproof tape to create an airtight canvas.
- On top of the film, a crate is made for roofing. The distance between the slats and their direction will depend on the type and length of the sheets of roofing material. If it is planned to use a soft roof for covering, then sheets of plywood will have to be fixed to the crate.
- After preparing the base, the roofing is laid, according to the appropriate technology.
When a full roof is installed over the building, you can do work for the final installation of walls and their thermal insulation.
chicken coop walls
Before starting the installation of plywood or boards on the frame from the ten, you need to decide whether the insulation will be laid on the outside or inside. It is more efficient to lay the insulation on the outside of the building, as it will immediately retain the cold and prevent it from penetrating into the thickness of the wall.
- If it is decided to lay the insulation on the outside, then the plywood is fixed to the frame from the inside of the chicken coop, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.
- From the outside, between the bars of the frame, an insulating material is installed. Most often, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used to insulate chicken coops. Applying the latter, it will be necessary to close the gaps remaining between the frame bars and the foam sheets with mounting foam, thereby blocking the “cold bridges”.
Optimal insulation for walls - mineral wool Mineral wool, on the other hand, has a certain elasticity, which allows it to tightly close all the cracks that have formed. Usually, the step of the crate in this case is made 40 ÷ 50 mm less than the width of the roll or mat - this will allow the insulation to fall into place with maximum density.
There are other materials, such as polyurethane foam. However, they will not succeed in insulating outbuildings on their own, since its spraying requires special equipment and a master who knows how to work with it. This process will be quite expensive, but insulation in this way will not take much time and will protect the walls as reliably as possible, since the foam material penetrates into more and more small cracks.
Sprayed polyurethane foam is a good method of insulating walls, but it can be too expensive for a chicken coop. - In the case when mineral wool, traditional for chicken coops, is laid for insulation, then it must be closed from above with a vapor barrier and windproof film. It is also fixed with staples to the frame bars.
- On top of the vapor barrier, wooden slats are stuffed onto the frame bars, they will create the necessary ventilation distance between the vapor barrier and the decorative sheathing.
- Most often, the walls are sheathed with well-fitted boards. However, if there is a desire for the chicken coop to fit into the overall design of the site, then it can also be lined with vinyl clapboard (siding).
Ceiling insulation
Having insulated and lined the walls of the chicken coop, you can move on to the ceiling of the room.
- If the house is being built in a cold region, it is recommended, in addition to the rafter system, to install floor beams and hem a wooden ceiling, on top of which insulation will be made.
- Carry out this process in the following way:
- On the frame with ten, next to the rafters, bars of floor beams are laid.
- On top of the beams, sheets of plywood or moisture-resistant drywall can be fixed.
- Further, mineral wool is laid between the floor beams.
- Then the insulation is tightened with a vapor barrier film.
- Boards, drywall or plywood are fixed on top of it. The choice of this material depends on the preferences of the poultry owner.
Additional house insulation
The concrete floor is reliable and durable, but even with an expanded clay cushion, it will not fully provide the microclimate necessary for the bird in the winter. Therefore, the premises additional insulation is required.
- If possible, an infrared film can be laid on the floor screed, which is then covered with a bulk cement composition. Such a floor can be turned on if necessary, or it can work throughout the winter period, maintaining the desired temperature in the room, which should not be lower than 10 degrees Celsius.
- Another, perhaps the most inexpensive and widespread a way to insulate a concrete coating is to install removable floors specially prepared for this particular room. These are boards tightly interconnected and fixed on logs. Such floors are convenient in that for the summer period they can be taken outside to be washed and treated with disinfectants.
- On top of the wooden flooring for the winter period, you need to additionally lay hay or straw, with a layer of 100 ÷ 150 mm - this will also insulate the floor surface.
- Many poultry farmers who breed chickens all year round install electric oil heaters or convectors in the chicken coop for the winter. For this, areas on the walls lined with heat-resistant materials are being prepared. Another option is to place infrared emitters under the stream.
Prices for popular models of infrared heaters
Infrared heaters
- In addition, if external wall insulation is not enough, they are additionally finished with insulation from the inside. However, do not forget that the area of \u200b\u200bthe chicken coop will decrease somewhat because of this. For fixing on the walls, both dense mineral wool and polystyrene or foam flex are suitable. Too thick insulation should not be taken, especially if the material will be fixed to plywood.
The best option would be a pre-arranged crate of slats having the thickness of the insulation. They are screwed on the walls in those places where plywood was fixed to the frame beams. A heater is installed between the rails, which is closed with a thin board or plywood.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Windows and doors
- The front door to the chicken coop should fit snugly into the door frame and be well insulated, otherwise it will become a conductor of cold into the room.
- Windows are made non-opening, as they are necessary not for ventilation, but for daylight to enter the chicken coop. It is necessary to save electricity, because birds definitely need daylight or electric light for at least 8 ÷ 10 hours a day.
- The small door for walking birds should also close tightly, but it cannot be completely caulked for the winter, since on not very cold days chickens are let out for a walk.
To get the desired result from poultry breeding, it is necessary to create the most comfortable conditions for keeping it. One of the main conditions is to maintain the optimum temperature in the premises where chickens live, both in summer and in winter cold. Timely measures for thermal insulation of walls, floors and roofs, which will protect the inhabitants of the chicken coop from very low and too low temperatures, can solve this problem. high temperatures.
TOP-7 best manufacturers of mineral wool
| Photo | Name | Rating | Price | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| #1 |
|
Ecoroll Mini | ⭐ 100 / 100 | |
| #2 |
|
Ursa Terra Pro | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |
| #3 |
|
Knauf Insulation TeploKnauf | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |
| #4 |
|
TechnoNIKOL Rocklight | ⭐ 97 / 100 | |
| #5 |
|
Rockwool Acoustic Butts | ⭐ 96 / 100 | |
| #6 |
|
Knauf Insulation TeploKnauf Aquastop | ⭐ 95 / 100 | |
| #7 |
|
Rockwool Rockfacade | ⭐ 94 / 100 1 - voice | |
Ecoroll Mini
The rating is opened by panel wool from a domestic manufacturer. Made on the basis of glass fibers with a density of six hundred grams per square meter of the panel. With such a density, the material is optimal for roof insulation or sandwich panels.
Material selection
The choice of means for warming depends on the climatic conditions of the region of residence, but an indispensable condition is the creation of a temperature regime that is kept at the level of 10-15 ° C. Among the frequently used natural ingredients that allow you to make a warm floor in a chicken coop with your own hands, includes dry grass and wood shavings, which, when arranging a chicken coop, act as an additional method of warming.
Properly selected and equipped underfloor heating for the chicken coop is the key to the health of poultry. In winter, it retains heat, protecting chickens from colds and pneumonia. In summer, it maintains the optimum temperature, providing comfort to the layers.
It is possible to insulate the floor in a chicken coop using concrete, wood or soil, and electric heating is also a good option.
ground cover
The most economical and simple option is the arrangement of an earthen cover, which is compacted soil or gravel. However, it has several disadvantages:
Clay coating when arranging an earthen floor in a chicken coop gives it durability and practicality, its layer should be from 10 cm or more.
concrete pavement
Concrete floor provides reliable protection against predators and rodents, is resistant to moisture and chemicals, its service life is up to 25 years, it is easy to clean, but it retains heat poorly. Eliminate this drawback with the help of additional bedding made of natural material and drainage mesh.
wooden flooring
Warm wood flooring is suitable for keeping adult broilers and chickens, because. natural material retains heat well and practically does not need additional insulation. Mesh cages are installed on the boards or mesh perches are equipped. The minimum thickness of the boards that are laid so that the flooring does not freeze through is 20 mm.
Important conditions for the equipment of a wooden floor are sanded boards and the absence of protruding nails.
Among the disadvantages are flammability and susceptibility to fungi and pests that destroy the wood structure. To maintain it, processing is required, often lime is used for this. To simplify the cleaning of a wooden floor allows the arrangement of the flooring at an angle.
To prevent rotting processes, the wooden floor for the chicken coop is treated with water-repellent agents.
Floor Equipment Technology
Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a chicken coop usually begins with pouring the foundation, which many people prefer to be columnar, it raises the flooring above the soil surface. Such a foundation increases the life of the flooring. The foundation is not necessary when it is made of concrete, as well as when arranging a ground cover in structures built on beams.
For a small chicken coop, soil flooring is suitable, for a larger one, made of wood. Plastic decks and nets emit toxic phenols and mold, so PVC is not suitable for decking.
The foundation pillars should be laid with lags so that they lie parallel, the space between them is filled with insulation. The optimal distance between the lags is no more than 0.6 m, which avoids deflection of the beams. To prevent heat from leaving, use a heat-insulating layer. Planks are laid on top.
Often, in a subsidiary plot or on a small farm, it becomes necessary to insulate rooms, buildings where animals and birds are kept. Usually these structures are not capital, made of plank boards, plywood.
The purpose of insulation is to maintain a positive temperature throughout the winter without heating or with its minimum power - up to 2 kW for a building of about 30 square meters, and also to make the insulation extremely cheap. But that doesn't mean bad. Savings occur on the finish, the "brand" of materials, the design of the fastening, and also because it is done by hand.
Simple slots - large heat leaks
It is necessary to insulate the chicken coop, barn, barn in a complex way. Most of the heat escapes with the exchange of air. No amount of heating can resist a draft...
First of all, you need to put a second glass on the sealant, if there is a window. Effective window insulation - for the winter, over a glass of 15 mm, install a plastic film on the sealant over the slats - a double-glazed window for a chicken coop. At a minimum, it is necessary to close the cracks in the windows, frames.
But there should be no non-adjustable gaps under the doors, windows - this is the basis of the insulation of any building.
How to insulate a chicken coop?
Where it is required to insulate a chicken coop, a poultry house or a barn, natural heaters are often “underfoot” in large quantities - straw, hay and wood shavings (small sawdust is not suitable). 
So that any living creatures do not start in them, they need to be prepared. You will need lime (fluffy, crumbly) and this is the main cost - one volume of lime per 10 volumes of material. And also - boric acid and copper sulfate - excellent anti-rotting agents.
In order for the material to be used in shields, it must be strengthened by adding 1 part of cement to 10 parts of the material. A solution is made with the addition of antiseptics and mixed with the required amount of chips, hay, straw. It is laid in shields, on overlapping in a wet state, drying gains strength. 
It is desirable to prepare hay and straw with a length of 20-30 mm, which is sometimes problematic and time-consuming. But it is the finely cut material that is easy to use and has the best heat-saving properties.
An alternative to all this is the use of foam, a very cheap insulation, especially if purchased in bulk. Sometimes it is cheaper, and most importantly faster and easier to install.
But lining with foam plastic will lead to a violation of vapor exchange in wood, structures may begin to rot and rot over time.
However, more often this is not critical for a chicken coop, besides, vapor barriers have to be used with other heaters, which also negatively affects the wood. Therefore, foam insulation of a barn, poultry house, chicken coop, as a very cheap insulation, can be recommended as a way out of the situation.
We insulate the ceiling in the chicken coop or barn
First of all, we insulate the attic floor. You will have to use a vapor barrier, you can use an ordinary dense plastic film. Without it, the insulation will get wet faster than dry. We cover with overlaps, over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe overlap with a twist on the walls. 
If nothing will be stored in the attic, then it is enough to cover it with processed (but without cement) hay-straw with a layer 20–25 cm thick. But if you plan to walk regularly, then it is better to make flooring on a crate at least 20 cm high, taking into account the ventilation. gap (insulation thickness 17 cm).
Polyfoam dense from 25 kg/m cube. with a minimum thickness of 12 cm, it can be laid without a crate in two layers with dressing of the seams in layers, and on top of it throw boards, plywood, on which it will be possible to walk.
When using foam, it is desirable to seal all the cracks with crumbs on polyurethane glue.
How to insulate the walls of a barn, barn ...
Plank walls need to be converted into shields. From the inside there should be a dense layer that prevents steam, from the outside - more vapor-permeable. If there is no dense layer of material from the inside, then it is advisable to apply a vapor barrier from the inside in front of the straw insulation, as well as on the roof.
The order of work is to install from the outside (or from the inside, which is better?) Vertical bars 12 cm thick with a step of 600 mm and pour organic insulation with cement between them in series with stuffing the missing lining from the bottom up. Cover the outer cladding with something water-repellent, for example, even oil-workout.
A feature of the use of foam on the walls is the absence of a vapor barrier and careful sealing of cracks. Dense foam can be glued to the walls, and on top of it some kind of protection from ultraviolet radiation and water can be glued - the same thin plywood that can be painted on top. The recommended foam thickness is 10 cm.
Thermal insulation of floors and ground
Usually in a chicken coop, a barn, a barn, the floors are made on compacted soil with some kind of backfill. Their insulation often comes down to adding natural (without processing) straw, hay, shavings for livestock. You just need to remember to turn the contaminated layer over, change it in time. 
The soil in winter is a natural heater for an outbuilding, a shed, a garage. A positive temperature can be maintained due to the heat of the earth. For this to happen, it is important to insulate the soil along the perimeter of the barn or poultry house to a width equal to the freezing depth in the area.
It is best to dig extruded polystyrene foam from 8 cm thick end-to-end to the foundation. But this is not cheap. Another option is all the same hay-straw 15-20 cm thick, covered from precipitation with shields, slate with a slope, and from earth steam - roofing material. Or simply - hay with a thickness of 50 cm, covered with boards - piled up. Even when wet, such a layer will give the desired effect ....
As you can see, it is really not expensive to insulate a chicken coop or a barn. Such insulation, as a rule, is done by hand, but the laboriousness is not small, and the quality will depend on the thoroughness of execution ....
Egg production of laying hens declines sharply in winter. This is due to a decrease in air temperature and a decrease in daylight hours.
Warming and heating the chicken coop will help to keep egg production at the same level and protect birds from colds.
Since you can insulate the chicken coop for the winter with your own hands in different ways, each poultry farmer chooses the most optimal one.
What temperature should be in the chicken coop in winter
Keeping the temperature inside the building at the same level throughout the winter will allow laying hens to lay well all year round.
Suitable temperature parameters:
- With the advent of spring, the egg production of laying hens increases by 40%. To create a spring microclimate in the chicken coop, the temperature is maintained at +18 ° C.
- The temperature in the poultry house must not fall below +10 °C, because with a cold snap the bird tries to warm up and begins to consume a lot of food. And most of the nutrients go to its heating.
- The most optimal temperature level is +12…+15 °C.
Are chickens afraid of frost and can they winter in a greenhouse
Important! With minus indicators, the productivity of chickens will drop sharply, but at the same time they will not die and will be able to survive.
If the birds have been acclimatized to the environment, then the lowest temperature they can tolerate is -7 °C.
At the same time, the chicken coop should be well ventilated and not have drafts. Some summer residents use a greenhouse as a home for chickens. This is the most suitable place for birds, where they will get enough light and be able to dig in the ground all day.
Floor insulation
Thanks to this, unpleasant odors do not occur in the room, which makes the material an ideal insulation. Birds do not suffer from dermatitis and various skin diseases, since their paws always remain dry.
In the spring, the litter is removed and the beds are fertilized with it.
Straw as insulation for a chicken coop
The use of straw is one of the most popular options for floor insulation. , because it has the ability to accumulate heat and retain it for a long time.
The material is laid with a thickness of more than 20 cm. During operation, the straw becomes caked, and its layer becomes smaller. Because of this, the temperature in the room decreases.
To prevent this, 10 cm of straw are regularly added on top. To give the bedding softness, dry grass is laid on top of the straw. The laid material must be of high quality, without mold. Otherwise, the mold will spread throughout the flooring and expose the birds to serious diseases.
Chips and sawdust for heating the chicken coop
Tree shavings are good chicken coop bedding. It is poured in a thin layer on the main flooring to give softness.
Coniferous tree sawdust is considered the best because it contains essential oils. The floor surface is covered with coniferous sawdust and small chips in a ratio of 1: 3. The litter tends to cake, so it is regularly loosened.
We insulate the walls
It is better to build a dwelling for chickens from natural wood. If the climate in the region is mild, then the building is made of boards. In more severe conditions, logs and a log house are used.
Depending on the building materials from which the house is made, they choose the method of work and heat-insulating material. It can be mineral wool, moss, penoplex and much more.
Warming is carried out from the outside of the building and from the inside. The outer side of the wall is plastered. If, after drying, cracks appear on the walls, they are covered with clay mortar with sand.
mineral wool
When using mineral wool, it is necessary to prepare a crate of bars in advance. Laying the bars is done vertically. The distance between them is left 10 mm less than the width of the insulation.
After installation, the battens make heat and vapor barrier using foil. This must be done, since mineral wool tends to absorb moisture. Then, mineral wool is laid in the crate and fastened to the wall.
Penoplex
Penoplex is made on the basis of polystyrene and is produced in the form of dense plates measuring 120 × 60 cm. The structure of the material is fine-meshed. When joining parts, no gaps are formed, since each element is equipped with a solid L-shaped edge.
The material has high heat-shielding properties and does not emit harmful substances and unpleasant odors. Penoplex is used both in regions with harsh climatic conditions and in hot ones, since the material can withstand temperatures from -50 to +75 ° C.
The service life of the heater is about 50 years. The material is toxic when burning and is used only with plaster, which are its disadvantages.
Other Ways to Insulate Chicken Coop Walls
Styrofoam is another heat-insulating material with which the walls in the barn are insulated. It is a lightweight material consisting of expanded polystyrene granules.
The density and strength of the material for each manufacturer is different. Fire retardant, included in some types of foam, has anti-flammable properties.
Therefore, it is better to insulate walls with a material that includes this component:
- Insulation is glued to the wall from the inside or outside of the room. The surface of the wall must be absolutely flat.
- The material is carefully fixed and plastered.
- The thickness of the sheet for the facade should be 5-6 cm.
Polyfoam has good thermal insulation properties, long service life, does not need additional waterproofing, and is inexpensive.
Despite all its advantages, it is a fragile material that does not breathe well. When ignited, it releases harmful substances.
Insulation of windows and doors
Most of the heat is vented out of the chicken coop through cracks in window and door openings. Therefore, all holes are sealed with foam rubber, cloth, cotton wool and other improvised materials.
To reduce heat loss, one small window is installed in the room, from which there will be enough lighting. The window is located on the south side or east.
Warming:
- Window. The window structure is equipped with two frames. In the summer, the frame is removed, and a mesh is installed instead, thanks to which the room is well ventilated. In winter, the window is covered with transparent polyethylene foam and trimmed around with felt material or other insulation.
- doors. The door is removed from the hinges and insulated from the outside and inside. The inside of the door is upholstered with dense material, for upholstery on the outside, film, foam rubber and felt are used. Such insulation will qualitatively protect the poultry house from drafts.
We insulate the ceiling and roof
If a farmer breeds chickens all year round, then the building is erected with an attic. This allows you to store bedding, food and much more.
But the drafts walking through the attic erode the heat from the house. To keep warm, the roof must be insulated. Insulation and execution technique are chosen depending on the structure of the roof. As a rule, the upper part of the building is insulated with mineral wool or foam.
Step-by-step description of the roof and attic insulation process
Before insulating the house, the bad parts of the wood coverings must be removed.
If the boards have areas damaged by rot or mold, these areas are replaced with new parts. Before installation, new boards are treated with an antiseptic.
Step by step description:
A heating system installed inside the poultry house will allow the farmer to collect a large number of fresh eggs every day. For internal heating, batteries, infrared lamps, various types of stoves and potbelly stoves are used.
Furnace options: potbelly stove, brick, diesel
An oven installed indoors can become a source of fire. Therefore, when installing such a heating system, a protective coating is created that will increase fire safety and protect birds from burns.
In order for the temperature in the chicken coop to always be at the right level, constant human control is required. The life of the potbelly stove is short, because over time it becomes rusty.
Diesel heater is the most cost-effective and safest appliance. Smoke containing harmful substances is not emitted into the room. The power of the device is selected depending on the size of the room.
Radiator with thermostat
The thermostatic radiator makes it easy to maintain the temperature in the chicken coop at the required level. To prevent birds from getting hurt on an electric battery, it is necessary to make insulation.
The disadvantage of such heating is high electricity bills. This is especially felt if you use a device with high power.
Infrared lamps for heating the chicken coop
Installing infrared lamps will help to reduce energy costs by several times. The efficiency of the device reaches 98%. The heat coming from infrared lamps is evenly distributed throughout the room.
The lamps are easy to use and easy to install with your own hands. They are mounted on a wall or ceiling.
Comparative characteristics of heating installations
The pros and cons of heating systems are presented in the table:
| Heater type | Advantages | Flaws |
| Diesel oven |
|
|
| Potbelly stove and brick oven |
|
|
| Radiator with thermostat |
|
|
| Infrared IR lamp |
|
|
Important! All heating elements of the heating device must be insulated with non-combustible material.
This is the first thing to do after choosing a heater. The electrical wires are sewn into a metal pipe with a diameter of 0.3 cm.
Conclusion
The number of chickens will always be healthy and egg-laying if you properly equip the chicken coop and create comfortable conditions for keeping birds.
You can insulate the house for the winter with your own hands from available materials.
