To date, there are a huge number of diagrams and drawings, on the basis of which it is possible to lay out a stove-bed. Even a beginner can cope with the task. Such structures will be discussed in today's article.
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Advantages of a stove with a stove bench
There are several advantages that this unit has:
- Small installation costs. Low cost of materials.
- The ability to use different fuels in addition to conventional firewood.
- With the help of a stove-bed, you can heat the room, cook food. The structure is also used as a bed.
- Big break between fireboxes. One firebox is enough for the whole day.
- It has a positive effect on human health.
Note! During the laying process, you must follow the rules, the implementation of which will significantly increase the safety of the entire structure.
Main types
Depending on the goals to be fulfilled, several furnaces are distinguished, which are equipped with a bench. They will be discussed further.
Swede oven
This model is equipped with a special shield that acts as a heater. It contains vertical and horizontal gas channels. Smoke is distributed through these pipes, which subsequently heats all elements of the furnace. Thanks to this circumstance, it is possible to evenly heat the room. During operation, efficiency increases, and fuel is consumed slowly.
Additional Information! The Swede is small. Therefore, the furnace mechanism can be installed in almost any room. Also pleased with the efficiency of work, which is achieved thanks to the chimney system.
Russian stove
This building is impressive. It needs a lot of space to install. A properly installed mechanism does an excellent job of keeping warm for several hours. This goal is achieved thanks to the cooking chamber, which is located deep in the stove. Some models are equipped with special smoke dampers. These elements perfectly protect the room from the spread of smoke.
Important! The Russian stove with a stove bench is equipped with additional elements for cooking. For this purpose, a wooden plate is installed on it.
Cast iron stove
A fireplace stove with a bench is regularly improved. These devices are long-burning mechanisms that do an excellent job of performing their functions. The air temperature level remains unchanged for five hours after the first laying.
The stove-fireplace for giving is equipped with a chamber in which fuel is burned. Thanks to hermetic doors, the process of smoldering firewood proceeds more efficiently. At the same time, carbon dioxide, which is formed during combustion, does not go outside. Flue gases are directed to the combustion chamber. As a result of the course of all processes, a large amount of heat is generated.
Note! A fireplace stove is more efficient than other types of stoves with a stove bench. Some models have a hob. With it, you can easily cook or heat food.
How to make a do-it-yourself oven
To make the oven yourself, you must follow certain masonry rules. They will be discussed further.
Structural elements
The composition of the furnace includes the following mandatory components:
- Couch.
- Confessor.
- Cooking plate.
- Ash storage compartment.
Foundation device
A Russian stove can weigh several tons. For such a weight, a reliable foundation is needed. Moreover, its area should be slightly larger than that of the furnace mechanism.
Additional Information! The stove for the house should not fit snugly against the wall. It is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 15 cm.
At this distance, you need to dig a hole. Subsequently, its bottom is covered with rubble and sand. Then they move on to the rammer. Half of the depth is filled with concrete.
The foundation dries for one month. During this time, it is not recommended to start further work.
After drying, you need to move on to waterproofing the foundation. Thanks to this stage, groundwater will not be able to penetrate inside the stove.
The order of laying the stove with a comfortable stove bench
In the process of laying the mechanism, red brick is often used. It has good durability and high wear resistance. Clay is also used.
To equip the mechanism with a bench, you must follow the above scheme.
Note! When laying a Russian brick oven with a bench, you will need a level. With this tool, you can achieve evenness of masonry both horizontally and vertically.
The manufacturing process of the device consists in following the step-by-step instructions:
- The first row of the oven is laid. The quality of further work depends on the correct laying.
- Installing the door blew.
- The next row is laid according to the previous principle.
- The laying of the furnace compartment begins. Channels are mounted, a blower damper, which should be blocked with a brick.
- Doors for cleaning chambers are being installed.
- The firebox door is installed.
- The arrangement of caps and the formation of the next row continues.
- A protective wall is laid out.
- The chimney is being installed. After that, the procedure for laying the furnace can be considered completed.
Important! Before self-construction of the furnace mechanism, it does not hurt to consult with experienced stove-makers. They will suggest the basic principles and methods that must be observed.
Nuances when installing a stove with a lounger
Most people decorate stoves. For this purpose, heat-resistant tiles are suitable. You can decorate the building with tiles. Thanks to this decoration, heat transfer is significantly increased.
Another option is to paint the mechanism with special paint. The doors of the product will need to be lubricated with sealant.
Before laying the stove bench, you must listen to the recommendations of people who already operate this unit. Among them are a few tips:
- The stove with a bench can be used in the summer to cook food. Also, it is necessary to install a special valve on it, thanks to which only the lounger will heat up. The rest of the structure will remain cold.
- In winter, it is better to remove the valve altogether. Thanks to this, it will be possible to achieve maximum heating of the room.
- Red or fireclay bricks, which were used during laying, increase the life of the structure. A brick oven heats up a room faster.
- It is necessary to clean the ash pan at least once a month.
Thus, a stove with a lounger is an excellent mechanism that, subject to the rules of operation, will last for many years.
Before starting to pour the foundation, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, marking work is carried out. Then a pit of a certain depth breaks out. Its bottom is carefully rammed. Sand, slightly moistened with water, is poured into the finished pit. The resulting layer is also well rammed.
After compaction, the thickness of the resulting sand cushion should reach 100–200 mm.
Then the sandy layer is covered with rubble. You should get a 150 mm layer. The created stone substrate is also carefully compacted.
We build formwork
In order to be able to start pouring the solution, the construction and installation of the formwork is underway. The side walls are made from any wooden slats. The resulting gaps are closed with a plastic film, which covers the formwork and is fastened with a stapler.
Such a film perfectly replaces ordinary roofing material. So that it does not move, it is nailed with staples. The formwork structure must be raised above the soil surface and reach the height of the foundation. It is allowed to install the formwork along the very edge of the pit. 
Pouring concrete mortar
After the formwork is installed, the foundation is poured with a rough mortar. It includes:
- coarse gravel;
- Cement;
- Sand.
The thickness of the pouring layer must exceed 150 mm. After pouring the first layer, reinforcement bars are inserted into it. Such a vertical structure will be a connecting piece when pouring another cement slurry.
Lightweight concrete mix
The inserted reinforcement is poured with another, lighter concrete. Its layer should reach the ground level. The resulting mixture is carefully equalized and wait a few hours.
When a slight hardening occurs, a steel reinforcing mesh is placed on the surface. It is also poured with concrete mixture, to the thickness of the formwork rails. The resulting screed is leveled and allowed to dry for 28 days.
waterproofing surface
After complete drying of the screed, the formwork is removed. The base is covered with a waterproofing layer consisting of glued layers of roofing material. Only after such preparation, you can start laying the walls of the stove.
3D arrangement Swedes with a couch
Necessary materials
Order "Swedes"
Below is a stove of a heating and cooking design, with a bench, with detailed ordering.
- The first two rows are laid out with mutual dressing of the seams;
- When bookmarking 3 rows, provide for the installation of a door for cleaning work. They also leave room for mounting a blower door. This row also overlaps the blower door at the same time;
- 4 row. The ash chamber is laid out;
- 5 row. Covers the blower door.
- 6 row blocks the gas ducts leading to the stove bench. Here the grate is mounted. The high temperature in the furnace causes the grate to expand. Therefore, a small gap is left on each side. It is covered with well-dried fine sand;
- The furnace door is installed in 7th row. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos sheet, at least 5 mm thick. In a similar way, the summer run valve is fastened;
- 8 row finishes laying out the couch. Ligation of seams must be performed in compliance with all technological rules.
- The installation of the door through which soot will be cleaned is done in 9th row;
- To obtain a funnel-shaped firebox, it is shrunk 10 row bricks;
- bricks 11 rows, serve to create grooves around the entire perimeter of the plate, taking into account the size of the gap. After that, a hob is installed on the surface of the clay-asbestos solution. Horizontalness is checked by the building level;
- 12 row serves to block the gas ducts passing through the combustion chamber.
- Then, observing the technology of dressing the seams, put 13–22 row;
The winter run valve is provided in 22 row; - 23–26 row serves for laying out the heating shield;
- For the installation of a common valve is used 27 row. It is fixed with a mixture of asbestos and clay. A special niche is carved in the bricks, where the frame will be inserted. The size of such a recess takes into account the future expansion of the metal;
- 28 row covers one gas duct. The second with dimensions of 12x18 cm remains open;
- 29 row laid out with 5 cm overlap.
- 30 row serves for laying out a smoke channel (12x19 cm);
- masonry 31 rows performed in 5 bricks. It turns out a smoke channel with dimensions - 13x26 cm. In order for the exhaust gases to exit smoothly, the bricks can be slightly chipped;
- The end of the construction of the furnace will be laying out the remaining rows.
Download project
You can download the order of the Swede stove with a stove bench.
When the oven is ready for use
The oven is considered to be well dried if the flue dampers do not have traces of moisture.
There is also another way to check the readiness of the oven. A pile of crumpled newspapers is put into the cleaning. It comes out after a couple of days. With a well-dried oven, newspapers will remain dry.
Until the design dries well, it can not be used. The first firebox will begin to destroy it.
I must say that even a well-dried oven cannot be heated strongly in the first days of operation.
The service life is significantly increased if it is heated every day.
The first firebox of a furnace that has not been heated for a long time, for example, in a country house, should be made light, of low intensity.
How to start the oven
It is strictly forbidden to operate a wet product. The oven must be completely dry. This process can take up to 4 weeks. First, cold drying is performed. In the remaining two weeks, the kiln is subjected to a “warm drying”.
At this time, the cleaning doors are filled with dry newspapers. When the paper does not dampen, we can talk about a well-dried oven.
Hot drying is also carried out. The furnace begins to heat up, gradually increasing the furnace material.
Photo of various stoves with benches
A bit of history
The Swede stove with a stove bench was invented by G. Reznik, who lives near Ryazan in the village of Noviki. The Dom magazine, in the 8th issue of 2010, spoke about its development. And for the first time published its order. As the basis of his design, the author used the "Dutch" scheme.
This article instantly caught the attention of professional stove builders and home craftsmen who were looking for a suitable design. Since not all regions and villages have the opportunity to bring gas into the house, and electricity is expensive, new heating and cooking developments have always been in demand.
Over the years, the design has proven itself well and has become very popular among the people. An excerpt from the same post:
The Russian stove is always associated with a special comfort in the house, with the ability to cook delicious dishes and pastries, relax on a warm stove bench. At the moment, quite a lot of models of such stoves have been developed, which are equipped not only with traditional functions, but also with additional ones, including a fireplace.
The Russian stove with a fireplace and a stove bench is one of the most popular, as its design includes, perhaps, everything you need. Such an oven is able to cook hot food, bake pies and bread, warm the house, create comfort and even help cure colds.
Of course, the fireplace will not be able to effectively heat the room, as it is rather intended to create a special mood or a relaxing environment. This is probably why fireplaces are becoming more and more popular, and many owners of private houses dream of having a heating stove equipped with this function.
Construction of a traditional Russian stove
Traditional Russian stoves, which used to be built everywhere, both in small huts and in rich chambers, differed only in their size and external decoration. So, in ordinary houses, the stove was “dressed” in clay plaster and covered with whitewash, and in spacious mansions it was decorated with tiles.
Such a structure was used as a warm bed, bread was baked in its crucible, food was smoked and dried, herbs, berries and mushrooms were dried, so the Russian stove was a vital necessity for every home.
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However, despite all the advantages, its design also has some drawbacks, one of which is poor heating of the bottom of the stove, so it was often sheathed with wood and used to store kitchen utensils.
In addition, earlier in the design of the Russian stove there was no hob, and all food was cooked using a crucible. However, later models were developed in which this function was also included, moreover, the cooking chamber with the stove was heated separately. In fact, it turned out that two stoves were combined in one design - they could be heated separately or in combination, which improved the quality of heating the house and expanded the possibilities for cooking.
The Russian stove differs from other types of heating structures in the presence of a crucible and in the fact that it always has at least a small bench, usually located on top of such a building.
So, the traditional Russian stove, the design of which formed the basis of many modern models of heating appliances, has the following basic structure:
1 - Hailo is the space that connects the crucible chamber and the system of channels, which are heat exchangers.
2 - The damper is necessary to adjust the intensity of the output of heated air into the chimney. The “summer run” valve is also used to direct gases in the right direction, in the case when only the hob or crucible should work without the effect of heating the house.
3 - A chimney is a channel through which combustion products go into the atmosphere after passing through all the internal channels of the structure.
4 - Fluff is an expanded part of the pipe, located near the ceiling, before passing through the ceiling.
5 - View - a window with a door that completely covers the chimney. This hole also serves as a passage through which you can get to the damper that regulates the draft in the furnace. The damper is made of well-crafted metal and is a plate. In modern models, a special valve is most often used instead.
6 - Shield (brow) - this is the surface of the furnace above the entrance to the cooking chamber.
7 - The damper is a panel cut from steel sheet and has a non-heating handle. It serves as a door to enter the furnace.
8 - Shestok - a niche in front of the crucible, and if a cast-iron stove is installed on it, it is called a cooking chamber. Provided that the hob is installed in another part of the oven, the hearth serves to store cooked food in it, since in these conditions it remains hot for a longer time.
9 - Hot water box.
10 - Brick "pillars" delimiting the cleaning chambers and installed in the second row in the order of construction.
11 - A window (hole) is a small hole on the side or rear wall of the inner firebox of the furnace. It connects the combustion chamber with the side channels of the chimney.
12 - Firebox - a channel with grates installed in it, located at the rear of the Russian stove structure.
13 - Grids are cast-iron grates that are installed between the blower and the fuel chamber.
14 - The understove is the space that is located at the bottom of the stove and is used to dry firewood.
15 - Under (bream) - this is the bottom part of the crucible, which is arranged with a slight slope to the inlet, which will greatly facilitate the movement of dishes with cooked food. Usually, craftsmen make this surface perfectly smooth, which will also facilitate the movement of dishes.
16 - The cooking chamber in this version is called the crucible, but in addition, the same name has a limited space with a hob in front of the crucible entrance.
17 - The vault (sky) is the "ceiling" of the furnace, which is also lined up with an inclination towards the entrance, which contributes to the accumulation of hot air under the highest point of the ceiling, which warms up the couch.
18 - The ceiling (bed) is located in the Russian stove at the back of the chimney. In some models, it is even planned next to the main structure. Under the surface of the bench there are channels through which hot air circulates, so it will be warm during the furnace and for a long time - after its completion, if the necessary valve is closed in time.
Since the more modern design of the Russian stove will be considered further, it should be noted that it differs from the traditional version in the provided heating of the sub-furnace section. This factor allows you to heat the premises more efficiently and quickly. Such an improved stove model is able to heat a house with an area of 38 ÷ 45 m².
The updated designs also provide for the division of the stove into different departments, therefore, using the stove in the summer for cooking, you can heat only the cooking part, without heating the entire structure and without wasting excess fuel for this. Such effective changes became available due to the inclusion in the design of such an element as a "summer" valve.
Video: one of the options for upgrading a classic Russian stove
In order for any furnace design to give the desired return and effectively perform all the functions inherent in it, care must be taken to purchase high-quality materials and tools.
Furnace tools
Having chosen the approximate installation site and the model of the furnace that matches its size, you need to proceed with the selection of tools for laying bricks.
- A trowel (trowel) will be needed to take the mortar from the container and apply it to the bricks, as well as to clean the masonry from the excess mixture protruding from the seams.
- The pickaxe is intended for splitting bricks and hewing them, since masonry may require ⅓, ½, ⅔ or ¼ bricks.
- Jointing - this tool will be necessary if the furnace will not be closed with trim. With the help of jointing, you can make protruding or depressed seams, but most importantly, the appearance of the structure will be very neat.
- A mooring cord will be necessary to control the verticality of the wall and the evenness of the rows. But an easier way to keep track of this is by using a plumb line and building level.
- Ordering - this device is used to maintain the evenness and thickness of the seams.
- A plumb line is a simple device that is easy enough to control the verticality of a wall.
- The building level is an indispensable tool for checking masonry, both horizontally and vertically. It is, in principle, always necessary for any construction and repair work.
- The rule is useful when leveling the surface of the foundation when it is poured.
- A shovel, as well as a container of approximately 8 ÷ 10 liters, will be needed to mix the solution.
- Measuring bar - stove-makers use it so that all seams have the same thickness - then the masonry will turn out to be perfectly neat.
In addition to the availability of tools, you need to carefully consider the correct location for the installation of the structure. This is where the next work needs to start.
In order for the laying of the stove walls to look aesthetically pleasing, and the stove itself to be safe for the health and life of the residents of the house, you need to follow some recommendations from experienced craftsmen:
- If possible, the stove should be placed in such a way that it heats as many rooms in the house as possible. So, a stove bench, if it is located next to the stove by design, can be turned towards the bedroom, and the hob and crucible towards the kitchen. Of course, it is best to plan the installation of the furnace at the stage of building a house, since in this case you can save yourself the hassle of dismantling the walls and floor. However, it is possible to build the structure into an already finished building, but only in this case it will be more difficult to position the stove in the right way, so you need to choose a model suitable for a particular layout of the house.
- In the case of installing a stove in a wooden house, it is imperative to protect combustible surfaces from overheating. To do this, a gap must be provided between the heating structure and the walls, which will be closed by non-combustible material.
- If one of the sides of the stove runs along a wooden wall, then it will be necessary to fix non-combustible asbestos or special drywall boards on the wall. However, even despite such protection, the oven must in any case be installed at a distance of at least 200 ÷ 300 mm from the wooden wall. This space will also allow proper control over the integrity of the joints and brickwork.
- The brick for the oven must be of high quality - without cracks and chips, and also have smooth edges. Only under such conditions will the masonry be sealed and neat.
- It is desirable to precede the real masonry of the furnace by laying out each row "dry", that is, without the use of mortar. This will help to better understand the order, as well as to carry out a high-quality fit of bricks that need some kind of processing - cutting into fragments, edge trimming, etc.
- Vertical and horizontal seams during laying should have the same thickness - no more than 7 ÷ 9 mm.
- It is not necessary to coat the walls of the furnace with clay from the inside to make the structure more airtight, since soot will be easier to layer on this layer, which will lead to a decrease in the thermal conductivity of the walls.
- The easiest and most popular way to bandage the corners of the oven is to intertwine a poke and a spoon.
- So that the brick does not absorb moisture from the solution, it is recommended to soak it before laying, otherwise the entire masonry will dry unevenly, and when dried, cracks will appear in the seams that violate the tightness of the surface.
- The excess solution that has come out of the seams must be removed immediately, without waiting for it to dry - only then the masonry will turn out neat.
- The outer walls of the furnace are laid out in half a brick or in one brick, otherwise they will warm up for a long time, which means that more fuel will be required for heating. The internal partitions and walls of the channels are laid out in half a brick. Nevertheless, in any case, when carrying out work, it is necessary to follow the scheme-order already proven by the experience of the masters.
Russian stove with stove bench and fireplace
The whole process of building a furnace consists of several preparatory and main stages, each of which should be considered in more detail.
Preparation of materials for the construction of the furnace
Having chosen the desired model of the heating structure, it is necessary to purchase a certain amount of materials to work on it.
So, for a Russian stove with a fireplace and a stove bench, the order of which will be described below, it is necessary to prepare (excluding the foundation and chimney):
| Name of materials and elements | Size in mm or material features | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Hardened Red Brick | M-200 | 1750 pcs. |
| Chamotte fire-resistant brick | Sh-8 | 230 pcs. |
| Clay | oily | 200 kg |
| Sand | purified | 300 kg |
| Hob with 2 burners | 500×625 | 1 PC. |
| Grate | 250×350 | 1 PC. |
| Furnace door | 300×350 | 1 PC. |
| cleaning door | 140×140 | 16 pcs. |
| Blower door | 300×140 | 1 PC. |
| Smoke damper | 180×260 | 1 PC. |
| Gate valve "summer course" | 250×400 | 5 pieces |
| Damper for the crucible | 300×650 | 1 PC. |
| Decorative ventilation grille | 140×140 | 4 things. |
| steel corner | 5×50×60 | 1500 mm |
| steel strip | 5×60×60 | 1500 mm |
| Steel sheet | 5×50×50 | 1 PC. |
To equip the foundation, you will need sand, boards for installing formwork, crushed stone, cement and reinforcement having a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. The amount of materials will depend on the total thickness of the foundation slab being poured.
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Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace
First of all, it is necessary to consider the process of arranging a reliable foundation, since it is from the foundation that work on the installation of any massive brick heating structure always begins. If the foundation for the furnace is of poor quality, then the building runs the risk of being skewed when the structure shrinks, and it will be impossible to operate it due to the appearance of cracks that can form not only in the seams between the rows, but also in the bricks themselves.
The design of the Russian stove is very massive, so you need to carefully calculate the parameters of the foundation for it. In addition to the weight and dimensions of the furnace, when calculating the base, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil in which the pit will be arranged.
The dimensions of the sides of the rectangular foundation must exceed the base of the furnace by 100÷150 mm in each direction, and its depth can vary from 500 to 800 mm, depending on the characteristics of the soil.
The base for the furnace is never combined with the foundation of the house - it must have its own foundation pit, independent of the general foundation of the building.
The foundation consists of several layers, which are laid in strict sequence, according to the presented scheme.
The work on arranging the foundation is carried out as follows:
- At the first stage, a pit is dug in the ground of the same shape as the base of the furnace, but 100 ÷ 150 mm larger in each direction.
- A wooden formwork is installed in the pit, which should rise above the edges by about 150 mm. If sufficiently large gaps have formed between the formwork boards through which moisture can escape from the solution, then the wooden walls should be sheathed with plastic wrap with an overlap at the joints of 200 ÷ 250 mm. Roofing material is also very well suited for these purposes.
- Then, 150 ÷ 200 mm of sand mixture is poured onto the compacted bottom of the pit, which will become a kind of waterproofing layer for the foundation from below and protect it from moisture accumulation. The sand is wetted with water and carefully compacted.
- On top of the sand, a layer of gravel, broken brick or crushed stone, which has an average fraction, is filled up with the same thickness. This "cushion" must also be well packed.
- Further, a reinforcing cage is installed in the formwork, which must pass through the entire thickness of the base.
- After the installation of the reinforcing cage, a concrete solution is poured into the pit, which is made in proportions of 3: 1 from a sand-gravel mixture and cement. Filling is carried out to the top of the formwork, and then the solution is pierced in several places with a bayonet shovel or reinforcing bar. Such "bayoneting" contributes to the release of the concrete mass from air bubbles and its maximum compaction.
- The surface of the mortar is leveled with a rule, for which the formwork walls will serve as beacons, so the boards in its upper part must initially be set horizontally at the building level.
- The foundation must be reliable and durable, therefore, after pouring the mortar into the formwork and leveling it, the base for the oven must be allowed to mature well and gain brand strength. The laying of the furnace should not be started until the foundation has given natural shrinkage. The readiness of the base will depend on the temperature and humidity of the environment. But in any case, the freshly poured foundation should stand unloaded for at least one month from the day the mortar was poured.
- The frozen foundation, before laying the furnace, is covered with two or three layers of roofing material, which will prevent capillary penetration of moisture from the foundation to the brickwork.
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Mortar for oven masonry
In order for the masonry to be durable, a high-quality mortar is made for it. However, making it is not as easy as it seems at first glance. Each stove maker has his own criteria for its manufacture and determination of readiness, but, in any case, the resulting masonry mortar should turn out to be thin and elastic, and when dried, it should not crack and provide tightness to the seams.
Today in specialized stores you can buy ready-made heat-resistant. It already includes all the necessary ingredients that will ensure the desired quality of the solution. So if there is no experience in preparing the traditional version of the mixture, then it is best to use a ready-made solution.
Well, if you want to prepare a clay solution yourself, you need to know a few signs of its readiness, the correct consistency and proportions.
The difficulty in preparing a clay solution lies, first of all, in the selection of the “correct” clay. This building material can be lean and oily, and for masonry work you need to find oily clay, which will give the resulting mixture elasticity. This quality of the solution will not allow it to crack when it dries.
An important factor is the proportions of the components of the solution, the selection of which requires a certain time and special preparation of the ingredients.
So, the acquired clay should be well cleaned of debris and plant roots. Then it is soaked, for about a day, in water. After the clay swells, it is rubbed through a metal "chain-link" mesh with 5 mm cells. Such a process will bring the clay mass to uniformity, ridding it of small pebbles, which will greatly facilitate masonry.
In order to achieve the optimal proportions of the components of the solution, the purified clay is mixed with sand, using materials in different parts. For trial batches, you do not need a lot of material - just make a small amount of the mixture that will fit in a matchbox.
Then, from the mass, made in two or three different proportions, cakes are made, which are left to dry for three days.
After this time, the dried mortar cakes are checked for strength and cracking. The best option would be one that will not “dust”, that is, crumble freely in the hands, and where the least cracks appear, and they themselves have a minimum clearance. It is these proportions that should be used to prepare the total mass of the masonry mortar.
For laying a furnace, for which fireclay bricks are usually used, a dry fireclay mixture is often added to the clay mortar instead of sand, in proportions of 3-4 parts of clay, one part of the powder.
After kneading and infusing the finished solution, it is also checked for the correct consistency:
- If the present mixture, when raked to the side with a trowel, “breaks”, forming cracks, then the solution requires the addition of water.
- If, when raking the clay mass to the side, the trace from the trowel immediately floats away, then this indicates that the solution is very liquid. In this case, the mixture can be left for several days to evaporate excess liquid, periodically stirring the mass.
- And, finally, if, when the mass is raked to the side, the solution does not “break” and keeps the shape of the trace left from the trowel, then this indicates that the consistency of the solution is optimal.
Prices for heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves
heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves
Ordering the laying of a Russian stove with a fireplace and a stove bench
The materials indicated in the table above are intended for this model of the Russian stove, the complex of which includes a fireplace, a stove bench, and a cooking chamber.
The dimensions of the structure, the order of which is presented in the table, are 2005 × 2005 mm and a height of 2750 mm.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | First row. On a flat waterproofed foundation, it is laid in a solid plane - 128 red bricks in the configuration shown in the figure. It is very important to fold the first row perfectly evenly, since the harmony and reliability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. |
 | Second row. On this row, the basis of the cleaning channels, the fireplace, as well as the blower chamber are being formed. This configuration will set the correct location for the further construction of vertical flue ducts, so the masonry must fully comply with the given pattern. This series will require 76 red bricks, and some of them will have to be divided into several parts or cut obliquely. |
 | Continuation of the second row. In addition to bricks, in the second row, 14 doors are installed on the cleaning channels, as well as the door of the blower chamber. |
 | Third row. For laying the third row, 76 red bricks will be required. It almost completely repeats the pattern of the masonry of the second row, with the difference that the seams are covered with whole bricks - in dressing. |
 | Fourth row. His drawing also repeats the third row (n = but also in the dressing), but at this stage the front part of the fireplace insert is formed. To do this, the front 11 bricks are mounted on spoons, and it is desirable that this be a fire-resistant material. Thus, the front of the fireplace insert will be higher than its main plane, which will later be lined with heat-resistant plates or fireclay bricks. Therefore, for laying this row, you need to prepare 84 red bricks. If fireclay bricks are used in combination with red, then 73 fireclay bricks will be required, and fireclay bricks - 11 pieces. |
 | Fifth row. At this stage, the formation of channels continues, and a grate is laid on the blower chamber, and the walls of the fireplace rise. For this series, you need to have 61 red bricks. |
 | Sixth row. At this stage of the masonry, the door of the combustion chamber is mounted, which is pre-wrapped with asbestos rope - such a measure will create the required thermal gap for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. In addition, decorative grilles are installed on both sides of the fireplace chamber at the bottom of the ventilation ducts, allowing air to circulate and create the necessary draft. The walls of the furnace furnace, as well as the fireplace, are recommended to be laid out with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Therefore, for this series, 17 fireclay and 43 red bricks will be required. Moreover, the brick, which is laid on the sides of the grate, is cut obliquely, at an angle of approximately 30˚. |
 | Seventh and eighth rows. These rows are laid out in the same way (but tied up), and for each of them you need to prepare 17 fireclay and 48 red bricks. |
 | Ninth row. At this stage, the lower horizontal channels under the base of the crucible overlap, and vertical ones begin to form. The back wall of the fireplace is laid with bricks cut obliquely, which will hang over the bottom wall by about 50 mm. Such a cut is necessary to direct the smoke from the furnace to the chimney opening in the "ceiling" of the fireplace chamber. For a row, you need to prepare 19 fireclay and 68 red bricks. |
 | Tenth row. Here, on the front of the furnace, a metal corner is installed, on which a cast-iron hob is laid. Whether it will have burners - each master decides for himself. The overlapped space will have a size of 500×625 mm. The brick laid on the back wall of the fireplace is also cut off so that it continues the slope given by the previous row. For a row, 18 fireclay and 63 red bricks are needed. |
 | 11th row. The furnace chamber is being formed - it is also desirable to lay it out with fireclay bricks. A predetermined slope is maintained on the back wall of the fireplace insert - it is laid out with hewn bricks. A row will require 30 fireclay and 32 red bricks. |
 | The 12th row in the figure repeats the previous one (in dressing) with one retreat - the rear fireplace wall is pushed forward by half a brick. |
 | On the 12th row, a circle made of wood or plywood is installed at the bottom of the furnace, that is, a semicircular frame-template for laying out the arched ceiling of the chamber. Chamotte bricks are placed in order by poking tightly to each other, and the seams between the beds of adjacent rows are filled with clay mortar. If necessary, the brick is pressed on both sides of the spoon adjacent to the frame. Ventilation holes are left on both sides in the upper part of the arch in four places. The circle is not pulled out of the structure - it is simply burned in the furnace at the very first heating of the furnace. For a row, you will need 38 fireclay and 57 red bricks. |
 | 13th row. At this stage, the cooking chamber is being laid, and metal corners are laid out on the side walls of the fireplace insert, which will become the basis for covering it with brickwork. It is necessary to prepare 16 fireclay and 57 red bricks for laying. |
 | 14th row. For a row, 8 fireclay and 70 red bricks are used. At this stage, bricks overlapping the front part of the fireplace insert are laid on metal corners or strips on a spoon. |
 | 15th row. In the drawing of this row, the arched ceiling of the furnace is missing - this is done in order to better see the masonry structure. From the back of the crucible, a ventilation window of the "summer move" is left. In the drawing, it can be seen on the back wall of the furnace (two bricks of the bottom row, painted pink). The brick on the back wall of the fireplace in this row is pressed from the top side at an angle of about 30˚. A row will require 13 fireclay and 40 red bricks. |
 | 16th row. Here the brickwork in front of the fireplace is carried out on the bed. The brick laid on the back wall is cramped and continues the direction of the previous row. For masonry, 21 fireclay and 50 red bricks are required. |
 | The 17th row is laid according to the scheme, and it will require 10 fireclay and 34 red bricks. |
 | On the 17th row, exactly above those already installed from below, the upper decorative grilles are mounted on the ventilation ducts. |
 | 18th row - on the chimney channel of the summer course, located behind the crucible, a valve is installed sideways. For laying a row, 9 fireclay and 55 red bricks will be required. |
 | 19th row - a support is being prepared to cover the cooking chamber. To do this, a corner or metal strips are installed along the outer edge of the walls. For a row you need 58 red bricks. |
 | On the 20th row, almost the entire surface of the furnace is covered, with the exception of the chimney openings for the fireplace, crucible and cooking chamber. 98 red bricks are used for work. |
 | 21st row. The furnace is covered with a second almost solid row, and it will require 104 red bricks. |
 | 22nd row. The third overlap of the surface, leaving holes for the chimney. For this row, 104 bricks are being prepared. |
 | The 23rd row consists of 30 bricks framing the chimney openings, on which three valves are installed. |
 | After the end of the 23rd row of masonry, the furnace takes on the form shown in the figure. All chambers have already been formed in it, doors, valves, a stove and decorative ventilation grilles have been installed. |
 | For the 24th row, 30 red bricks will be required, which will fix the valves installed earlier. |
 | The 25th row is laid out according to this pattern of 25 bricks. |
 | The 26th row has the same configuration, similar to the previous row, but a cleaning door is installed on the formed horizontal channel. For masonry, 24 bricks are required. |
 | The 27th and 28th rows have almost the same design (taking into account the dressing of the masonry), and for each of them you need to prepare 25 red bricks. |
 | The 29th and 30th rows are identical, and they overlap the horizontal channel. For each of the rows, 34 bricks are required. |
 | The 31st row is framing for two chimney channels. It will need 19 bricks. |
 | On the 32nd row, which consists of 14 bricks, another cleaning door is installed. |
 | The 33rd row will also require 14 bricks and has an identical configuration to the 32nd row. |
 | The 34th, 35th and 36th rows are laid out of 14 bricks each and have approximately the same design, taking into account the dressing. |
 | 37th row - the horizontal channel is blocked, and two valves are installed on the chimney openings. This row will require 17 bricks. |
 | The 38th row consists of 19 bricks and overlaps the valves installed earlier. |
 | The 39th and 40th rows are the beginning of the laying of the pipe. Each of the rows consists of 10 bricks. |
 | A cast-iron or steel damper is manufactured and installed on the finished furnace, corresponding to the size of the crucible inlet. |
 | In this figure, you can well consider and evaluate the dimensions of the couch located on top of the structure. Its length is 1920 mm. |
 | And in this illustration you can see the overall result of the work. Both furnaces are clearly visible here - stoves and fireplaces, as well as the entrance to the cooking chamber. |
It should be noted that although the laying of stoves has long been considered a craft, in fact it can be quite attributed to a kind of art, since each stove-maker uses his own tricks and secrets in his work. Therefore, if a novice master lays out his very first oven, then it is advisable to carry out this process under the supervision of an experienced specialist. This will help to avoid mistakes that beginners often “sin” with.
a stove with a stove bench is an unsurpassed classic, which was installed in almost every house, hut hundreds of years ago. Today, such brick structures can be found both in private cottages and in country houses.
The units have a lot of advantages, in addition to the sunbed. They can be equipped with an oven, hob and work on wood. The couch itself is not only a place to relax, but also an opportunity to achieve maximum heating efficiency. The structure itself, equipped with this element, heats the house better and more evenly, and after the firebox it cools down longer, continuing to give off heat. Also, the advantages include a fairly simple principle of the structure of primitive structures. And the order drawn up by a professional, the drawings allow you to build a brick structure with your own hands. In order to learn more about the design features of such models, we recommend watching the video in this article.
Choosing an order
A stove with a stove bench is, first of all, a correct, correctly chosen scheme, ordering. It depends on her how effective, useful and safe such a heater will be installed in the house.
A large spacious lounger warms up well and gives off part of the heat to the room
A large open hearth partially performs a heating function and is intended for cooking
It is interesting to know: such a brick structure, working on wood, can have both small dimensions, a stove bench and a combustion chamber, and a more complex structure. The second variety involves the construction of a do-it-yourself stove, additionally equipped with an oven, a hob.
Stoves with a bench and a hob can also be used for comfortable rest, drying berries, mushrooms, clothes, shoes.
In addition, brick stoves with a bench provide more efficient, uniform heating of the premises. The best are heating units, which are based on combustion chambers equipped with a long burning function. Also, long-burning fireboxes belong to the category of the most efficient, economical, in terms of the consumption of firewood and other types of solid fuels.
Features of ovens with a stove bench
A stove with a stove bench and a hob, the ordering of which is done by hand, can work in one of two modes. Depending on the season, a wood-fired brick installation can operate in summer or winter mode.
- In summer, the fireplace is equipped with a special valve, due to which only the stove bench, hob and oven heat up. The unit itself does not warm up, which allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the house;
- In the winter season, when the room requires particularly intensive heating, the special valve is completely removed, which contributes to the heating of the furnace, with all related elements.
Part of the heating structure with a stove bench is assembled from a simple brick, which is quite profitable and economical
In order for the stove with a stove bench to last as long as possible, it is best to use fireclay bricks for assembly.
In order to prepare the stove for baking, it is also necessary to open two of the three shutters, and after the fuel has completely burned out, they close again. Also, the fuel compartment must be cleaned of the resulting combustion products (ash, soot). The dough is placed in the oven, the third flap also moves.
In order to build a brick oven with your own hands, you will need:
- Ordering, drawings;
- About 2500 fireclay bricks;
- 900 kilograms of clay mortar;
- 1900 kg of sand from the quarry;
- 250-290 kilograms of mortar.
Construction principle:
- The first few rows must be well tied up to give the massive structure additional strength and stability;
- On the third and fourth, the door is installed;
- On the fifth and sixth rows, we install the grate;
- From the 7th to the 9th row, we begin to form the walls of the furnace hole;
- On the 11th and 12th rows, a cast iron hob is installed;
- From the thirteenth to the fourteenth we mount and arrange caps, we reinforce the structure with corners, 100x100 in size;
- From rows 15 to 18, we continue to form the combustion chamber, build ceilings;
- At 19 we mount dampers;
- From 20 to 23 we perform standard masonry;
- On the 24th row we install dampers;
- The 25th row is characterized by the construction of a smoke circulation;
- 26-28 rows are stacked as standard;
- On the twenty-ninth, a steel sheet is fixed;
- From 30 to 32 we perform standard masonry;
- From 33 to 36 we build a chimney system;
- On the 37th row we lay a steel sheet, which will serve as an overlap;
- 38 row completes this order.
A small Swede for a summer residence, equipped with a trestle bed
A stove with a stove bench can be designed with your own hands according to the Swede principle. For this, the appropriate drawings, ordering, video are selected. Such a unit is also complemented by a hob and oven.
Swedish brick stoves are complemented by many stove benches. They are installed between two rooms (bedroom and kitchen), able to evenly heat rooms with a total area of up to 30 square meters.
The unit assembled with your own hands from brick works in summer and winter mode. To work in the summer, it is necessary to open two existing dampers at once. In the winter season, only one opens, due to which the entire furnace begins to warm up, and the heated air masses begin to pass through a long chimney system.
It is interesting to know: the base of such an aggregate is small, its size is 1148x765 millimeters, with the dimensions of the trestle bed 1785x638 millimeters.
The lining of the Russian stove with a lounger is made by one of the most expensive materials - tiles.
All traditional Russian stoves installed decades ago were additionally plastered
For the construction we need:
- Red brick 900 units;
- fireclay bricks 200 units;
- Blower, door for the furnace compartment, cleaning doors, grate, hob, steel corners (purchased separately or made to order).
Swede with a couch: ordering
To assemble such a Swede stove with a stove bench with your own hands, maybe not even a professional with minimal skills and experience in this area:
- First of all, we need to build a separate foundation, since the structure has a large mass, despite the average dimensions;
- Next, we begin to lay out the part in which the firebox is located;
- The hob is laid on 11-12 rows;
- The 18th row is reinforced with metal corners.
You can familiarize yourself with this order in more detail on the presented photos, as well as using these explanations:
- Main retractable smoke channel;
- Sliding mechanism used in the summer;
- Fireproof ceiling separator;
- Cooking cast iron surface;
- grate;
- Door for the furnace compartment;
- Blower sash;
- cleaning sash;
- Corners and strips made of steel;
- Cooking compartment;
- Pechurki;
- Chamber deaf compartment;
- Bell mechanism;
- Winter chimney horizontal system;
- Vertical chimney system for the hob;
- Ventilation compartment;
- An inlet into which heated gases rush (used in winter mode);
- The place where gases enter the chimney system;
- Inlet type hole;
- bypass;
- Temperature gaps.
Heating and cooking stoves with sunbed
The most convenient to use are the designs, the bed in which is located at the level of a standard bed. This option is convenient to use for both adults and children.
For added convenience, a stove with a stove bench is installed with your own hands between such rooms as the kitchen (hob, oven) and the bedroom. Thus, the heating will be more intense, faster and more even.
The main point that should be taken into account when building a brick stove for a house or a summer residence is the obligatory construction of an additional foundation that is not tied to the foundation of the house itself. This element is necessary, since the total weight of the brick device is very large.
A massive unit installed on an additional foundation and lined with fireclay tiles
A small hearth with a place to rest, the surface is lined with plaster and stone
Due to the structure correctly folded with your own hands, the sunbed does not overheat and you can lay blankets and blankets on it
It is safest to equip one of the hearths with hermetically sealed doors
In order to increase the power and heat dissipation of the device, the surface is tiled
The principle of building an additional foundation:
- The stove with a bench is installed on a reinforced concrete frame. The plate should be larger than the heating unit itself and protrude slightly on all sides;
- As a basis, a pit breaks out, up to 100 centimeters deep. Keep in mind that between both foundations you will need to leave a little free space (about five centimeters);
- First, we fill a layer of sand (about 100 millimeters) on the bottom of the pit, we compact it with water. Next, we lay and ram the gravel;
- We supplement and strengthen the foundation with a reinforcing frame, which is based on vertical racks and horizontal reinforcement (two levels);
- We fix the frame with wire. We fill the foundation with concrete so that it ends slightly below the level of the floor covering.
After the foundation is completely dry, roofing material is laid on the surface, preferably in two layers. After that, the first row of bricks is laid dry, and the second with mortar.
This video will help you to get acquainted in more detail and in detail with the process of assembling a stove with a stove bench with your own hands:
In Rus', the stove was the main item in the house; it was used not only for heating and cooking, but also for sleeping. Today, people spoiled by civilization voluntarily return to their roots - a stove with a stove bench can be found in hunting huts, in country houses, and in capital buildings for permanent residence. This design is not only convenient, but also more efficient - it retains heat much longer after heating.
Ordinal schemes of stoves with benches
Modern stove-makers have studied the secrets of distant ancestors and made useful changes to the classic schemes that increase efficiency and help save fuel. There are plenty to choose from: simple stoves with a stove bench, heating and cooking devices, combined models with a stove bench and a fireplace. The lounger can be used not only for relaxation, it is great for drying mushrooms and berries, it can also serve as a dryer for shoes and clothes.
Russian stove with a stove bench - an undying classic
Stove with a fireplace - maximum comfort
A fireplace stove with a stove bench fits best into the interior of modern houses, filling the room not only with warmth, but also with a magnificent spectacle of a living flame. Due to the increased heating area, the heat efficiency of the fireplace is significantly increased. Increasingly, preference is given to closed long-burning furnaces - this increases the safety of furnace equipment, facilitates operation and helps to save fuel.
Modern stove-fireplace with trestle bed
An improved stove with a fireplace and a bench works in summer and winter modes. The regulation of the movement of gases is carried out using valves. In summer mode, valves 7, 6 and 9 are opened, while hot gases exit into the chimney, and the furnace array does not heat up.
General scheme of a stove with a fireplace and a stove bench
In winter, the stove is fully warmed up with the 7 valve open. To warm up the stove bench and the cooking chamber, dampers 7 and 9 are opened. The fireplace operates with the 5 valve open. To prepare the firebox for baking, first open the 7th and 9th dampers, after the fuel burns out, close them, clean the firebox from the ash, put the bread in the oven and close the 11th damper.
To build a fireplace stove with a stove bench with your own hands, you need to purchase 3000 pieces of fireclay bricks, about 1000 kg of clay, 2000 kg of quarry sand and 300 kg of mortar.
The first rows are laid in a dressing
3 and 4 rows, door installation
Masonry rules 9 and 10 rows
The next stage of masonry, installation of dampers
Steel sheet fixing
Swede with trestle bed - an option for a small house
The heating and cooking stove "Shvedka" is popular with fans of stove heating due to its compactness and ease of masonry. Modern masters have supplemented the favorite model of country residents with a comfortable bed. This functional design is recommended to be installed between the kitchen-dining room and the bedroom. It easily copes with heating a room of 25 square meters.
In summer mode, during the furnace firing, both smoke dampers are opened, and in winter the second one is closed (marked in the “2” diagram), due to which hot gases rush along a long chimney, heating the base of the hearth and a place to rest. Base size: 114.8 * 76.5 cm, trestle bed dimensions: 178.5 * 63.8 cm. A stove-maker with basic skills in laying furnace equipment will be able to build this stove bench with his own hands using the order below.
For the construction of this structure, 900 pieces of red brick and 200 pieces of fireclay are required. You will also need doors (blowing, furnace, cleaning), a grate, a hob, a steel corner.
Explanations for the scheme:
- 1 - main smoke damper;
- 2 - valve for summer use;
- 3 - ceiling fire cutting;
- 4 - cooking stove made of cast iron;
- 6 - furnace door;
- 7 - blower door;
- 8 - cleaning doors;
- 9 - steel corners and strips;
- 10 - niche for cooking;
- 11 - stoves;
- 12 - blind chamber;
- 13 - caps;
- 14 - horizontal chimneys for winter;
- 15 - vertical chimneys of the cooking mode;
- 16 - ventilation hole;
- 17 - input of heated gases into vertical chimneys for winter mode;
- 18 - gas inlet to the chimney;
- 19 - inlet;
- 20 - bypass;
- 21 - temperature gaps.
Type and scheme of masonry Swedes with a stove bench
Furnace construction scheme
The order of work from 6 to 11 row
Heating and cooking stove with a place to lie
This heating stove with a stove bench, stove and oven is ideal for a country house or a small country home with permanent residence. In the proposed model, the height of the trestle bed is slightly higher than the height of a standard bed, so it will not be difficult even for a child to climb onto it. If desired, the structure can be installed between two adjacent rooms - one side to the bedroom or rest room, and the part where the hob is located, to the kitchen.
Scheme of the oven with oven, stove and stove bench
The procedure for laying a heating and cooking stove with a bench
Masonry 7-12 rows
The mass of the stove bench is from 3 to 8 tons, so before building it, you should take care of a solid and reliable foundation. This should be a reinforced concrete slab with a larger area than the base of the oven. The foundation is poured so that there is a gap of at least 5 cm between it and the foundation of the house. The depth of the pit should be 80-95 cm.
The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm thick and the sand cushion is rammed with water. This is followed by a layer of rubble, which also requires tamping. The reinforcing frame is made of vertical posts and two levels of horizontal reinforcement. The armature is fixed with wire. Concrete is poured so that the level of the foundation is slightly lower than the level of the finished floor covering.
After the slab hardens, two layers of roofing material are laid (for waterproofing) and two rows of bricks are laid - the first dry, and the second with mortar. On the prepared base, you can build a stove with a stove bench with your own hands, according to the chosen scheme.
The construction of a capital brick hearth is a complex process that requires extensive knowledge and compliance with a number of important rules. Lack of experience in the furnace business is the first reason to contact a specialist. Professional stove makers will quickly cope with difficult work, guaranteeing the quality, durability and safety of the structure.
Video: Swede oven with stove bench
