Frame construction from a to z. How to build a dream house: DIY frame house

Frame construction has been rapidly gaining momentum in recent years. It has become especially popular among private developers. It is worth noting that in Canada this is a state program. In Russia - the solution of the housing problem on their own. Frame construction makes it possible to build a house in a short time with a minimum investment.

If we consider in detail - a frame house is:

• lower and upper trim, fastened with vertical posts, which form a frame for the subsequent installation of walls - both internal and external;
• a base made of timber for an attic space, consisting of load-bearing beams and floors;
• timber truss system, on which the roofing material is mounted - it should not be too heavy;
• depending on the region of construction, the appropriate insulation material is laid between the frame elements.

Important! the thickness of the insulator must correspond to the distance between the wall sheathing.

The frame is sheathed on both sides with moisture-resistant material.

You can build a frame house on your own, without having a special building education. To do this, you do not need a specialized tool, just study the technology and be patient, following all the steps in the construction strictly according to the instructions.

Canadian technology house - pros and cons

The frame structure has many positive aspects, for example:

1. Cost - if calculated per square meters, it is the lowest, which makes this technology popular all over the world.
2. Construction speed - a team of three people can build a house in just 1 month, provided that the foundation for the building has already been laid. The entire structure will be ready in 2 months - along with interior decoration.
3. Low heat capacity and thermal conductivity - modern heat insulators help create comfortable living conditions - both in summer and in winter. In addition, the frame structure allows you to save thermal energy - it is enough to heat only those rooms that are needed at the moment.
4. Aesthetics - already in the process of construction, it is possible to carry out all the necessary communications within the walls, “brick up” the electrical cable and wiring, and mount the ventilation system.
5. There is no need to build a recessed base, since the weight of the frame structure is small.
6. There is no need to give the building time to shrink. During the construction of the frame structure, dry materials are used that will not shrink later.
7. Environmental friendliness - only natural materials are used in the construction, which comply with sanitary standards and are safe for humans.
8. Simplicity of finishing inside the building - the wall is sheathed with modern slab materials that do not need plastering, which significantly reduces the time spent on finishing.
9. Resistance to temperature extremes - it is worth noting that the frame structure is a kind of thermos that retains heat. Such a structure can be heated periodically.
10. Seismic resistance - this design can withstand vibrations up to 9 points.
11. Construction can be carried out at any time. Even the foundation can be equipped with a pile-screw.
12. Simplicity of erection - for construction it is not necessary to use heavy equipment, a small construction team is enough.
13. Microclimate - building materials are natural, they "breathe", so a certain microclimate is created in the room.

But if you do not talk about the disadvantages of frame structures, the picture will be incomplete:

• quick flammability - in a few minutes the frame structure burns out completely, even the walls do not remain;
• danger of fungus and mold - in climatic zones where it rains frequently, dampness can appear in any structure. In a house built on a frame
• technology, this indicator is very high, therefore, even during construction, it is necessary to accurately calculate the “dew point”;
• low sound insulation is, of course, a significant drawback, but it can be eliminated by laying special soundproofing material in the walls;
• the difficulty of interior decoration is the inability to hang heavy objects on the walls if mortgages are not foreseen in advance.

But if you approach the construction with all responsibility, then you can eliminate the shortcomings, for example, observe safety precautions and treat the structure with various antiseptic impregnations.

Foundation for a frame house

In order for the foundation to be strong and serve for many years, you need to choose the right type of foundation. What to consider:

1. The type of soil on the site.
2. The height of the groundwater.
3. Building weight.
4. Seasonality of residence.
5. The region in which the house is planned to be built.
6. Wind and snow loads.

Most often, the following types of bases are equipped under the frame building:

• pile;
• pile-grillage;
• tape shallow.

In Russia, a pile-grillage foundation is most often equipped for frame structures. This is one of the types of prefabricated bases that do not require large financial investments. If you correctly calculate the load and build a structure, strictly adhering to the technology, then it will last a very long time.

Important! If you doubt the reliability of the design, apply the TISE technology. Piles have an extended heel, due to which the bearing capacity of the foundation increases significantly. In addition, the design will steadfastly resist the forces of heaving of the soil.

Piling wells can be drilled either manually or motorized. At the bottom of each hole, it is necessary to equip a sand cushion, for this:

1. The bottom of the well is well tamped, after spilling it with water;
2. Pour gravel-sand mixture - 15-20 cm;
3. Spill it with water and tamp;
4. Fill with concrete, about 15 cm.

The pillow is ready.

As formwork, you can use:

• The walls of the well, if the soil is dense and not prone to shedding. Just before pouring concrete, you need to equip the waterproofing.
• Roofing felt - a pipe of the desired diameter is twisted from it, which is fastened with metallized tape. The material is twisted in at least 4 rows.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are a simpler, but more expensive option.
• PVC pipes - can be purchased at any hardware store.

To strengthen the bearing capacity of the foundation, it is necessary to reinforce the piles, for this:

1. Prepare reinforcement with a section of 16 mm - for the main frame, with a diameter of 10 mm - for strapping.
2. Cut the base rods of the desired size, not forgetting that they should be 80 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to subsequently tie the grillage reinforcement.
3. Prepare items for tying.
4. Build a triangular structure from the main reinforcement, connecting it with strapping elements with a step of 40 cm.
5. Lower the finished structure into the shaft strictly vertically.

Everything is ready - you can pour concrete, grades not lower than M250.

Once the concrete has set, formwork can be installed for the grillage, which can be recessed, elevated or hanging. For the arrangement of the structure, ready-made plywood panels are used, they are built directly in place from a board, 40 mm thick.

Waterproofing is laid in the formwork, reinforcement is carried out. The longitudinal bars of the frame are connected to the outlets from the piles. In the tape, you need to equip holes for communications and the ventilation system - for this it is enough to install pipe sections.

You also need to prepare studs to secure the strapping beam. Elements should be installed with an indent from the corners of 30 cm, then the step is 1-2 meters. It must be remembered that it is the studs that will connect the base of the house to the foundation, so the more often they are installed, the stronger the structure.

Important! No matter how long the wall is, at least two studs are installed for it.

The next step is to pour the concrete. In order for the structure to gain the required strength and not crack, it should be covered with polyethylene or roofing felt. Further work will begin in a week, provided that the air temperature is not lower than +20 degrees. At lower temperatures, you will have to wait longer. The main condition is that concrete must gain at least 50% of its strength.

Bottom harness and floor

Wood tends to absorb moisture, and so that it does not take it from concrete, it is necessary to equip high-quality waterproofing. You can apply the same roofing material or bituminous mastic in two layers, which is more reliable, since the roofing material can become brittle over time. When insulating work, you need to take into account the location of groundwater - the closer they are, the more layers you need to equip.

The next step is the strapping, which is done in the following way:

1. For beds, prepare boards 150x50 mm in size, they must be dry and impregnated with wired compounds;
2. The boards are aligned along the outer edge of the base;
3. Drill holes for the studs, which should be larger in diameter, by about 2-3 mm;
4. Lay the first row of boards;
5. The second row of material is arranged in such a way that the joint of the boards of the first row falls in the middle of the board of the second;
6. Knock the boards together with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice! For strapping, you can use a beam 150x100, but its cost is much higher, and the boards assembled in this way have a large bearing capacity.

We put the harness and lags

The binding is constructed as follows:

• Take boards 150x50 in size, which should be installed on the edge with alignment along the outer edge of the base along the perimeter of the building. Nail them with 200 mm nails to the bed, the fastening step is 40 cm.
• The logs are mounted from the same board, placed on the edge and fixed with 90 mm nails, drive two nails from both sides into the end of each board. Fasteners should be driven in obliquely.
• The first board is installed at a distance of 40 cm from the strapping, the subsequent elements are installed at the same distance, but it should be understood that the longer the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.

Important! If the logs are very long, then a transverse beam is equipped, on which jumpers are nailed so that the structure stands firmly.

Insulation and flooring

Once the lag structure is built, you can begin to equip the subfloor. It can be built from a board, 250 mm thick. To do this, slats 5x5 cm are stuffed on the logs along the lower edge, on which elements of the desired length are laid. Nail each piece of board with 4 nails, 2 on each edge.

The rough coating is ready, you can start warming. For this, foam is used - it is environmentally friendly, cheap and moisture resistant. The thickness of the insulation in this situation should be 15 cm. To do this, lay the first layer of 10 cm. All cracks and gaps must be foamed. The second row is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the material is 5 cm thick.

It is worth talking about foam, which has many advantages:

• easy;
• easy to install - cut with a hacksaw or utility knife;
• eco-friendly;
• inexpensive;
• has a long service life;
• a layer thickness of 15 cm is able to keep heat like an ordinary brick wall.

After that, you can lay the finishing floor, on which the floor covering will subsequently be mounted. The floor can be equipped with plywood 15 mm thick or OSB 12 mm thick, in 2 layers. It is worth noting that OSB is cheaper, so this material is preferred by many private developers.

Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, while between the sheets it is worth leaving a gap of 3 mm to compensate, since the material can change its volume from changes in humidity.
The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws, 35 mm long, along the seams with a step of 12 cm, along the perimeter of the sheet 25 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

wall construction

There are two ways to mount walls:

Frame-panel option:

1. Assemble the frame of the walls on the floor - you can do it all at once, you can do it in parts;
2. Sheathe the frame from the outside with OSB or GVL boards;
3. Raise the elements, set the level strictly vertically - fix.

This assembly principle is used by factories - panels are assembled in the workshops according to a specific project, which are then delivered to the construction site and mounted on a finished foundation with strapping. Also, frame-panel technology can be used in the construction of a house structure with your own hands.

Method - balloon:

1. A bar 100x100 or 150x150 along the perimeter is attached to the lower trim, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation, the step of each element should be no more than 120 mm - this is the width of the sheathing plate;
2. Install intermediate racks at a distance of 60 cm, that is, in the middle of the main ones, their thickness should not be less than 50 mm;
3. The upper trim is constructed from a bar or board, similar to the lower one;
4. Sheathe the frame of the walls from the outside - the pitch of the screws at the seams: 12-15 cm;
5. Lay the insulation, foam all the cracks and seams;
6. Sheathe the frame from the inside.

Which method to choose, the developer decides. But it directly depends on how many people work at the construction site. If it is possible to invite several people to help, at least occasionally, then assembly on the floor is much more reliable and easier.

Installation and section of racks

Corner rack elements - timber 150x150 mm or 100x100 mm. It is worth noting that it all depends on the load, for example, for a one-story building, 10 cm is enough, for a two-story building - 15 cm and above.

There are several ways to mount racks:

• on wooden dowels;
• cutting;
• on steel corners.

The method of installation on dowels is old and complicated:

1. You must first prepare dowels from dry wood of the desired diameter.
2. Then drill holes obliquely through the lower trim bar and the rack.
3. Drive the dowel into the prepared hole, and saw off the protruding ends.

It is worth mentioning right away that this method is reliable only if the material is dried well. In the case of raw wood, it dries out, the wooden spike will also dry out, and the rigidity of the fastening will be lost.

cutting made in the lower strapping, and you can choose only 50% of the depth of the timber.

The easiest way - steel corners, which are installed on both sides of the racks and screwed with self-tapping screws, 3-5 pieces on each side of the corner, depending on the load.

Also, when building according to Canadian technology, the beams for doors and windows must be double, since the load on these structures is very large and reinforcement is necessary.

Bevels or braces

These elements are necessary if the frame of the walls of the house is assembled on the spot. The slopes can be temporary - from the inside of the walls, if it is supposed to sheathe the frame with any slab material. These elements are needed in order to set the racks in a strictly vertical position and fix them until the sheathing is completed. After that, the cuttings are removed.

When using type-setting, for example, lining, it is necessary to install permanent braces. They are installed on each pair of racks of 4 pieces - 2 at the top and bottom. It is worth not neglecting this rule, since in the process of sheathing the racks can “float” and the geometry will be broken.

Advice! To reduce construction costs, you can apply the technology of prefabricated racks, which are assembled from two boards. To do this, they need to be knocked down with nails in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 20 cm. Of course, it will take more time to build, since each rack will have to be assembled separately, but the bearing capacity of these elements is many times higher.

Frame house corners

Arrangement of corners raises many questions. If you install the rack bar directly at the corner, then installation can be done without problems, but in this case it will be cold. For areas with a mild climate, this is not a problem. But in central Russia, winters are cold, and corner elements need additional insulation.

There are two options for solving the problem:

1. Install the racks at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner, then there will be a gap between the frame sheathing and the beam, which is insulated with an insulator.
2. Install 2 racks at the corners at a distance of 10-15 cm, depending on the thickness of the heat insulator.

In addition, it is possible to insulate the structure again when installing the facing material, then the house will not only be warm, but will also acquire an aesthetic appearance.

overlap

Beams are fixed to the upper harness in three ways:

1. On steel support brackets;
2. On steel corners;
3. With inset.

The installation step of the beam structure and the size of the elements directly depend on what is planned to be done from above. If it is planned to equip the attic floor, then in order for the floor not to sag, the cross section of the beams is taken to be maximum, and the step between them is reduced to 40 cm. 100x100.

If it is planned to build a second floor, then the beams are taken 150x150, a draft floor is mounted on them - it will be easier to work with the walls of the second floor. The assembly of the structure itself is carried out similarly to that used in the construction of the first floor, but with the difference that the wall frame structure will have to be dragged to the second floor.

Rafter system and roofing material

Often, when building a house using frame technology, two types of truss systems are used:

1. gable;
2. Attic.

The difference in their arrangement is small, it is enough to correctly calculate the material. But in the case of frame structures, there is a limitation on the weight of the roofing material - it must be light, otherwise the wooden beams may not withstand a heavy load.

Warming

To insulate the frame structure, you can use any of the known insulators that meet the characteristics and requirements for thermal insulation:

• Mineral wool - meets all the requirements, but it is worth remembering that this material is not moisture resistant and, when wet, can lose its insulating properties by 30-50%. To prevent such consequences, it is necessary to equip high-quality vapor barrier.
• Styrofoam is the most inexpensive and sought-after insulation that does not absorb moisture, does not sag, and keeps heat well.
• Basalt wool is a natural insulator that can be purchased both in rolls and in mats.
• Expanded polystyrene is almost the same polystyrene, but its fraction is much smaller. The material meets all sanitary standards, does not absorb moisture, keeps heat well. The only drawback is that direct sunlight destroys the material.

Important! When choosing the size of the insulating material, it is worth remembering that the plates should be 2-4 cm larger than the gaps between the posts, so that when installing the insulator there are no unwanted cold bridges.

The choice of insulating material depends on the financial possibilities and the region of construction, but it is better not to save on insulation, since it depends on how much money you will spend on heating the room.

Finally

Using the tips and step-by-step instructions described above, anyone can assemble a frame structure on their own, without resorting to the help of professional builders. Houses based on Canadian technology are assembled in a short time and are inexpensive, which made them so popular with private developers.

Five years ago, with a budget of 600,000 rubles. and one assistant, I built a one-story house with a 100 m 2 attic for permanent residence. Now, given all the mistakes made during construction, I will tell you how to build a house yourself, having only 700,000 rubles.

Why "framework"?

Some time ago I had a dream of my own house on my own land. There was no land, no money at that time, only a great desire. Desire, as you know, gives rise to opportunities, and now I am the owner of my own land near the city and the amount of money is about 600,000 rubles. Having some experience in construction, I began to explore options. At a certain stage, I came across information about frame houses, that is, houses assembled from ready-made SIP panels - essentially sandwiches, where between two layers of oriented strand boards (OSB) there is an effective insulation - most often polystyrene foam. As it turned out, this is one of the cheapest construction options. True, in this case, a house with an area of ​​​​100 m 2 will cost about 1,500,000 rubles. - the amount is too big for me. But this is only if the seller will build such a house. And how much will I save if I buy ready-made SIP panels and assemble the house myself? As it turned out, not much. But what if, understanding what SIP panels are, refuse to use ready-made ones and make them yourself, as they are built, insulate them not with foam, but with something more environmentally friendly? It turned out that the cost of this option is much less! It remains only to convince the spouse that such a house is not only inexpensive, but also meets absolutely everything, even the most stringent requirements for homes for permanent residence. With my wife, I succeeded, though not on the first try. Now, having lived in such a house for 5 years, she periodically thanks me for the fact that at one time I was able to convince her of the “correctness” of this type of construction. Now I will try to convince you.

There are 4 characteristics that make a house not just a habitable building, but a place where you and your family will live, and where friends will visit. So:

1. The house must be warm. That's right, this is about frame houses, they are really very warm. So, for example, before connecting the gas, to heat the first floor of my house in frosts of -25 ° C, I used 3 electric heaters with a capacity of 1.5 kW each, at a temperature outside the window of -10 ° C - 2 heaters, if less, then generally periodically turned off all heating devices - the heat that is generated in the process of life was enough.

2. The house must be strong. Among all wooden houses, frame houses are structurally the most durable. They are almost a monolithic structure. Theoretically, such a house can be picked up by a crane by the roof, lifted and even shaken, but nothing will happen to it. Neither a sagging foundation, nor natural disasters, nothing will damage such a house. The best evidence of structural strength is that frame houses began to be built in Japan over 4,000 years ago and are still being built today, as they perfectly withstand typhoons and earthquakes, which are not uncommon in this region.

3. The house must be durable. We look at the previous paragraph, we add here the opportunity to process each wooden element used in construction with appropriate impregnations, and we will end up with a house in which you, your children will live, and there will still be grandchildren. In fairness, it should be noted that the only problematic element may be a heater. That is, if you buy ready-made SIP panels with expanded polystyrene filler, then in a dozen years it will crumble inside the frame. Thus, voids are formed in the upper part of the walls that do not have insulation. It is clear that this is easily corrected by filling them through the drilled holes with mounting foam, but still, the nuance is unpleasant. As part of my articles, I will tell you how to insulate a frame house in order to avoid such problems.

4. The house must be environmentally friendly. The most slippery question. Although if we treat building materials impartially, then, perhaps, only log houses are more environmentally friendly than frame houses, and even those made of red brick (and even that is doubtful - additives in the material for bricks and cement make such houses no longer so environmentally friendly, compared, for example, with houses 50 years old or more). In frame houses, the most problematic elements are OSB boards and insulation. Let's look at it in order. Modern production of OSB panels implies maximum environmental safety, that is, the content of harmful substances is minimal (for most indicators, it is on the verge of capture). Again, if you use ready-made SIP panels, which have OSB boards on both, internal and external, sides, then this may have some meaning. I will tell you how to build a house in which OSB panels are used only as an outer layer. You can talk a lot about insulation, the main thing is to understand that you can insulate with polystyrene foam, mineral plate or, for example, ecowool. Lots of options. Combining different materials, you can achieve completely different results, both in terms of thermal insulation and environmental indicators. I will tell you how I insulated my house, based on my tasks.

Now I want to dwell on the characteristics that are peculiar only to frame houses.

1. Easy upgrade. It means that the frame house can be easily completed with any number of additional rooms, with a corresponding change in the location of windows and doors. So today I plan to add another room to my finished house, in which there will be a fireplace and something like a winter garden. In addition, this room will have a separate exit to the garden. Of the completed reconstructions of the finished house, I can note the removal of one window and inserting it into another wall. I made this alteration after the completion of construction, although at that stage there was no fine finish yet. This operation took me about 2 hours.

2. And now the main thing that I already mentioned is the low cost of the house. A frame house is the most inexpensive house. Even if you buy ready-made SIP panels and use the labor of third-party workers, then in this case the finished house will cost you one and a half times cheaper than any other. But, if you have at least basic woodworking skills, a couple of months, and that’s exactly how long it takes to build a frame house yourself, a couple of assistants and an amount of money of about 700,000 rubles, then you are already a potential owner of a house for permanent residence with an area of ​​about 100 m2. I actually own this house.

So, if you have read up to this sentence, then, at a minimum, you are interested, and at the maximum, you are looking forward to the author moving from water to specifics.

Project selection

Preparing a project is a very serious matter. It is not enough just to draw the house you like, arrange windows, doors and partitions. This is where I started too. It is very good that some doubts were constantly present, either I or my wife did not like something. In the process of changes, all the nuances were taken into account, the project was redone, sometimes radically. At the next stage, the understanding came that the house cannot have arbitrary dimensions. First of all, not even because of technological requirements - such as the length of the floor lag cannot be more than 3.5 m, if it does not have intermediate supports that prevent it from playing underfoot. This is just as easy to get around by providing retaining pillars and beams and planning load-bearing partitions in the right places. The most important thing is the initial dimensions of building materials. So the skeleton of the frame is made of timber. The length of the building beam is 6 m. Thus, when planning a house with dimensions that are multiples of 6 m or integer parts of 6, that is, 2 m or 3 m, you can save a lot on the purchase of material, since in this case there is a minimum of waste. Further, the dimensions of the OSB boards are 2.44x1.22 m. I draw your attention to this - this is the OSB of the American standard. There is an OSB of the European standard - 2.5x1.25 m. You can use them, only I made all the calculations with the Americans, since there is less waste from them. So, when comparing the sizes of the bars and OSB sheets, and taking into account the result obtained, the puzzle project was compiled. In addition, it immediately became clear how to calculate the estimate. The result was a one-story house with an attic with a total area of ​​100 m 2.

First floor. 1 - living room-dining room-kitchen 50 sq. m; 2 - stairs to the second floor; 3 - bathroom 5 sq. m; 4 - entrance hall 6 sq. m; 5 - open veranda at the floor level of the first floor

Attic floor. 1 - bedroom 14 sq. m; 2 - hall 17.5 sq. m; 3 - bathroom 5 sq. m

On these diagrams, I gave only general dimensions, without specifics such as the dimensions of windows, doors, ceiling heights, etc. Further, where I will tell you how the frame is built, all the necessary dimensions will be given. In addition, I indicated the north-south direction for the convenience of marking the walls - north, south, etc. As can be seen from the diagrams, such dimensions of the house allow the use of beams of standard sizes of 6 m and pieces of 3 and 2 m that do not give residues. It should be clarified that the house has an open veranda (on the first floor diagram). The rise from the ground level is carried out along the stairs to it, and from there through the door we get into the house. Now I have expanded the veranda from 2 m indicated on the diagram to 2.5 m. As I said, this is not a problem in frame houses, if you wish, you can easily do it yourself.

In addition, the location of the stairs to the second floor is due to two considerations:

• lifting is carried out in the highest part of the roof - ridge, which gives airiness to the structure;
• under this staircase, she herself is on the right, in the same way another one goes to the basement, hidden behind the door.

The appendix near the stairs is a small office, by me, until the second floor is ready, used as a bedroom. It is quite clear that if you abandon the attic floor, then due to the stairs, the living area increases by 2.5 m. In principle, a little, but what prevents you from changing the project, abandoning the veranda in favor of a dwelling and thereby getting a house with an area of ​​72 m2. It seems to be not much either, but given that in the city I had a three-room apartment of 60 m 2 and this was somehow enough, then probably, in order to save money, such a step would be quite justified. For a while, one floor was enough for me. At the moment I am finishing the construction of the second one.

Separately, a few words on planning. Initially, it was planned to make two rooms with a kitchen on the ground floor. The kitchen is in the southwest corner and a separate room of approximately 11m2 is in the southeast corner. The rest of the room is the living room. Such a layout is absolutely necessary if only the first floor is left. However, the second floor, which will house the bedroom, allows you to get away from dividing the area into rooms, which, as practice has shown, is very, very good, especially for spending time together with friends, and the kitchen, dining room, living room and, at first, the bedroom, are quite coexist in a single room on the first floor.

Well, the project is approved, we start construction.

Foundation

How to make a foundation for a frame house? The answer is yes to anyone. It can be a tape shallow foundation, it can be a concrete block foundation (my version), or it can be a monolithic reinforced concrete slab under the whole house (although you have to say goodbye to the dream of a basement).

When I calculated my foundation, I wanted to take into account a few nuances:

1. Should be as cheap as possible.
2. Should be produced as soon as possible.
3. There should be a basement under the house.

For the price, I’ll say right away that ready-made foundation blocks were cheaper than concrete for pouring a similar foundation. If you pour from a mixture prepared by yourself, it will be cheaper, but the timing conflicts with the second requirement. I put the blocks in two rows, on a prepared sand and gravel cushion, which raised the house above the ground to a height of 1 m. Thus, a basement immediately turned out. To keep the basement from freezing, it subsequently had to be insulated. In any case, even taking into account the insulation, this option was the cheapest and met all the requirements I put forward.

By the way, remember, I spoke about the extension. I plan to make it from this side, that is, in the space between the windows. The project has already been thought out, there is little left to do.

A close-up of the base can be seen in the next photo. By the way, white paint is not as simple as it seems at first glance. This is exactly a heater, ultra-thin - 3 mm - applied like paint and in terms of thermal insulation properties comparable to 100 mm polystyrene foam insulation, and most importantly, it is applied as it should be for a heater from the outside and is weather-resistant.

No matter how you make the foundation, in the end you should get this picture:

The absence of a jumper under the veranda allows you to use this space for storing various garden utensils

Why are poles needed? Do not forget - the house is wooden, and the ceilings in it are wooden. The two ends of the sex logs rest on the harness lying on the base. So that with a log length of 6 m, the floors do not walk underfoot, it is necessary to equip retaining beams (horizontal bars running under the logs and located perpendicular to them), and they, at one time, should lie on vertical retaining pillars. It is these pillars that are shown in the figure. Thus, when you make the basis for the floor of the first and, if necessary, the second floor, you will get something like this:

First floor

Attic

I note right away that two retaining systems for the log of the second floor are necessary, based on strength considerations. Retaining pillars do not rest against the ground, but against the logs of the first floor, which makes the structure less durable. In the future, the vertical pillars in the middle of the room are easy to beat, as I did, for example.

What I draw your attention to again is that the standard length of the beam is 6 m. The vertical poles stand just under the junction of 6 m and 3 m of the beam-retaining beam. Feel the salt of the indicated sizes. But more about this later, and now we return to the foundation.

During the work on its arrangement, it is necessary to provide all the necessary openings for life support systems and make, if necessary, drainage. In addition, if you are planning a basement, then in order not to create problems for yourself, do it before the construction of the frame. This will require additional time and you will not meet the promised 2 months, but it will significantly reduce the labor and material costs of arranging the basement. I first built a house, and then I began to make a basement - this was, perhaps, the only serious mistake I made during construction. To date, the basement in my house is almost ready, but here's what it cost me...

Generally speaking, I will not describe in detail the work on the construction of the foundation. This was the only stage where I had to resort to the help of friends. Here, perhaps, it is better for you to use the experience of more knowledgeable people, as I did.

The house I built is not ready yet, though this does not prevent me from living in it for almost 5 years. The most important thing is the backbone, and the meat, that is, the corresponding interior, outbuildings, etc., will appear over time. The main thing is my home on my land, and this is exactly what I dreamed of.

With this, I would like to finish the first article. Next will be the most interesting - how much material will need to be bought, how much money will be required for this, and most importantly, how to build a house out of all this. All this I will tell in.

Evgeny Dubinin, rmnt.ru

In these houses, a wooden frame acts as a supporting base, which is assembled from beams, crossbars, racks and strapping. The frame takes the weight of the roof, floors and walls.

When building a frame house, special attention should be paid; when choosing lumber for the frame, the forest must be dry, geometrically even and free of fungi and pests.

In terms of labor costs and the consumption of building materials, frame houses are one of the most economical structures.

Another advantage of such a house is the possibility of building it yourself. All construction works (roofing, installation of door and window blocks, cutting of sheet materials, cutting beams and boards, laying a light foundation) do not require special professional building qualifications. Frame houses do not include heavy elements that require the use of lifting equipment for installation. How to build a frame house yourself will be discussed in this article.

Compared to houses made of beams and logs, frame houses have a number of operational advantages. Such houses are warmer, they do not have grooves between logs that require insulation. The frame house will not give precipitation. This facilitates construction and further operation. The frame house is affected to a much lesser extent by grinders, settling in massive beams and logs. When heated, such a house will warm up faster, it has less humidity. All these advantages attract developers to build a frame house.

Varieties of frame houses

Scheme of the pediment of a frame house.

Depending on the construction of the walls, there are 2 types of frame houses: frame-backfill and frame-panel. In frame-panel houses, the walls are separate and completely finished panels, which are made in advance and mounted on the construction site. Wall assembly is usually carried out somewhere in a warm place in autumn or winter.

Manufactured with high precision, on layout according to a template, with careful laying of windproof materials and insulation, neat inner and outer cladding, they allow you to quickly assemble a house with high quality construction. The size of the shields is chosen according to the length, which is equal to the height of the wall. The required width is selected depending on the size of the available sheathing material.

Frame-fill houses have walls that are assembled at the construction site from start to finish. On the racks of the frame, the inner lining is carried out with the laying of a vapor barrier layer (glassine, plastic wrap can be used). The inner space of the wall is filled with heat-insulating material.

In such structures, loose heaters are usually used: perlite sand, peat, sawdust. During the build-up of the outer skin, a heater is laid. Loose insulation to avoid precipitation and voids is tightly rammed.

The type of walls that are chosen for the house determines the design of the frame. Wall panels by themselves cannot bear the load. Frame-fill houses require the creation of a more durable frame.

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How to build a frame house?

Before proceeding with the construction of a frame house, a project is drawn up. According to the project, all necessary materials are calculated. The technology of creating a frame house includes several stages.

Scheme of a country frame house.

Tools and materials needed to create a frame house:

1. Small and large hammer.
2. Electric planer.
3. Chisels of various sizes.
4. Large and medium nail puller.
5. Drill with a set of drills.
6. Circular Saw.
7. Electric jigsaw.
8. Building level and plumb.
9. Marker and pencil.
10. Roulette.
11. Flat and Phillips screwdriver.
12. Tassels of various sizes.
13. Scaffolding.
14. Ladder.
15. Roofing material for waterproofing.
16. Asbestos pipes.
17. Reinforcement of various sections.
18. Concrete for pouring the foundation.
19. Boards of various sections and plates.
20. Styrofoam or mineral wool for insulation.
21. Lining or siding for exterior decoration.
22. Gypsum board for interior decoration.
23. Protective film.
24. Roof covering.
25. Communication materials: pipes, wires, etc.
26. Nails, metal staples, bolts.
27. Antiseptic coating.

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Building a foundation

Schematic of the wall structure.

Building a quality home requires a good foundation. To extend its durability, you must not forget to equip the waterproofing.

Since the weight of the frame house is small, most often a foundation of asbestos pipes is created under it. Along the perimeter of the future building, the location of the support points is marked. It is necessary to monitor the uniformity of the racks.

In the marked places, pits with a diameter of 200 mm and a depth of 1 m are pulled out. The pipe is inserted into the pit, its verticality is verified, and then the soil is carefully rammed.

After that, reinforcement is laid and the rack is poured with concrete. The same procedure is carried out with each column. After pouring, you need to give the pillars a few days so that they can get stronger properly.

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With the laying of the lower trim on the foundation, work begins on creating a frame house. It can be made from round wood cut into 2 edges. It would be even better to use a beam with a section of 120x120 mm (it is more convenient to work with it). If there is no suitable timber and logs, the lower and upper trims (and other frame elements) can be made from 40x120 mm boards.

The scheme of the lower strapping.

Wood for the lower strapping, which works in the most unfavorable conditions, is treated with an antiseptic. This will protect the wood from decay, and therefore extend the life of the structure. The simplest processing method is impregnation with a 10% aqueous solution of iron or copper sulphate. This impregnation does not clog pores - the wood will be able to breathe. Novice builders often make the mistake of impregnating the logs and lower beams with used machine oil and painting over with oil paint. This leads to rotting of the wood and the formation of house fungus. This is due to the fact that the oil closes the pores and does not allow moisture to evaporate.

If the lower trim is laid on a continuous strip foundation, then it is necessary to lay a dry, strong board 50 mm thick impregnated with hot bitumen between the beam and it. If a columnar foundation is being erected, then a segment of the same board is laid between the pillar and the beam, wrapped with 2 layers of roofing material.

Between themselves, the beams are connected at the corners of the half-tree. At least at 4 points, the strapping must be fastened to the foundation using embedded metal anchors. It is necessary to strictly control the horizontal level using the building level.

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Covering the first floor

Having installed the lower harness on the foundation, you can start laying the logs along which the floors will be laid. Usually logs are made from a board 100-120 mm wide and 40-50 mm thick. With a wall module of 1.2 m, they are installed in increments of 0.6 m. You need to install the logs on the edge. They should rely on posts made of scrap steel or asbestos-cement pipes. After installation, under the logs you need to put bars, previously wrapped with roofing material.

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Installation of vertical racks

Scheme of fastening corner racks.

Vertical racks are installed at a distance of 0.6 m from each other. Thus, every 3 racks create a module of 1.2 m. The module is often selected depending on the width of the available windows.

According to the value of this indicator, the strapping is broken down. Corner drains make them more powerful. As a material, hewn logs, a bar or two boards connected with nails are used.

Intermediate racks are made of boards 40-50 mm thick. Above the door block, above and below the window block, horizontal crossbars are placed from the same boards. The window sill is necessarily supported by a short stand. Beams and logs are fastened with staples, and the racks are sewn to the strapping with nails 120 mm long.

The width of the racks is chosen depending on the insulation used. For example, using 100 mm thick mineral wool slabs, you will need 100 mm wide racks. It makes no sense to increase this size too much, since air voids do not improve thermal insulation, but can lead to slipping and sedimentation of the insulation. The use of bulk insulation eliminates such restrictions. The width of the racks is selected according to the dimensions of the available lumber (usually no more than 150 mm).

If the inner and outer wall cladding is done with boards, then it is necessary to make diagonal connections along the racks between the upper and lower trim. They will protect the house from wind loads, skew and uneven foundation settlement. In order for the boards not to interfere with filling with insulation, it is necessary to cut them perpendicular to the plane of the racks. If sheet material (asbestos-cement sheet, chipboard, plywood) is used as sheathing, then it is not necessary to install wind ties. To give the house the necessary rigidity, sheathing sheets are nailed to the frame. After the racks are set, you can mount the top trim on them. It is made using the same materials and using the same techniques as the bottom one. With the help of nails and staples, it is fastened to the racks.

When you decide to build your house, you must choose the technology of its construction. This choice depends on many factors. First of all, everyone thinks about the cost of future construction. So, the financial costs for the construction of a brick or log house will be $530-870 per 1 m². But the price of a frame wooden house is $350-625 per 1 m². Moreover, the process of building frame houses takes only about 3 months.

If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, then it is important to decide what it will be - frame-frame or frame-panel.

Tools and materials

• perforated metal brackets;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• pins;
• hammer;
• cement;
• sand;
• shovel;
• shields;
• beams;
• bars;
• lags;
• boards;
• OSB or DSP boards;
• ruberoid.

Features of the construction of frame houses

At the heart of the frame of the house are the lower and upper trims and vertical wall racks. After the construction of the foundation, the house is supplied with external and internal cladding, between which a heater, a vapor and water insulator are mounted. The final stage of construction is the exterior and interior decoration.

If we talk about the features of the panel and frame-frame construction, they are almost the same, since in both cases there is a frame. However, there are still some differences.

The erection of the shield frame of the house is carried out from ready-made shields, which were obtained in the factory. Such buildings are installed mainly on a tape-type base. The construction of the shield frame of the house cannot be carried out without the use of special equipment, which is used to deliver the material to the building site, after which a crane must be used, which is needed to install the shields and the roof of the house.

Before mounting the shields, it is necessary to install a base under them, which are separate trusses made of wood and having upper and lower trims.

Logs act as the upper strapping of the trusses that underlie the shields of the house, and the floor will be built along them.

There is another option for mounting the base for shield walls; a mortgage crown made of timber can act as its role. In this case, the floor logs are not connected to the mortgage crown and walls.

The shields are fastened to each other according to the tenon-groove connection principle, metal plates can be used as an analogy for this type of fastener, for this, after the installation process, the shields will have to be strengthened with an upper harness made of timber.

A wooden frame-type house, as a rule, has a roof made of rafters. They are mounted on the building or mounted on truss trusses.

The frame of a house made of panels has many advantages, including the ease of erecting walls, saving time on construction, the stability and strength of walls due to strapping, and the possibility of building at any time of the year. In addition, such houses do not shrink, which implies the possibility of finishing immediately after construction.

The technology for the construction of frame-frame buildings involves the arrangement of the frame on a mortgage crown made of logs, the last of which are mounted on the foundation. Do-it-yourself frame of the house is made of logs or beams, but the frame racks are mated with each other by the beams of the upper and lower trim, as well as horizontally located jumpers. The structure acquires rigidity due to the jibs mounted between the racks of the frame.

Installation of roof trusses is carried out on the side walls, and lathing is laid on the surface of the rafters. The construction of such a wooden house can also be done at any time, and special equipment is not required for the work.

Figure 1. Ways to connect the bars at the corners.

If you want to build a frame house with your own hands, but still do not know whether to turn your choice towards panel or frame technology, then it is worth considering that the price of a frame-frame building is 15-20% lower than the price of a panel house. Frame-frame houses, although they do not have restrictions in the choice of forms of architectural design, unlike panel houses. However, the time costs will be more by 40-50%.

When sheathing the frame of the house, you can use boards of the 2nd grade, it will cost much less. For comparison: the cost of the material of the 1st grade is $175 per 1 m 3, the 2nd - $115-135 $ per 1 m 3. It is permissible to use OSB or DSP boards.

By building a frame house with your own hands, you free yourself from arranging boxes and niches for locating communications, since the ability to hide communications within the walls of the house acts as a design feature of the building, however, this can make it difficult to access them. Laying the electrical network in the walls should be given special attention, since the walls do not have fire safety.

The frame of the house has an insignificant weight, which is 35% less than the weight of a log house, which is very impressive, since log houses are distinguished by their lightness. Because of this, the construction of a frame house with your own hands can be carried out not only on a lightweight foundation, but also on weakly bearing soils, including sandy and marshy soils.

The sequence of building a frame house

A week after laying the foundation, you can begin to assemble the frame of the house. Often, in the process of pouring the grillage, studs are laid into it to fix the beam of the lower trim. If the wood intended for the frame has not been dried, then it needs to be mounted and sheathed with OSB as soon as possible. Timber before construction should be treated with an antiseptic.

The roofing material will be used for arranging waterproofing on the foundation and lag supports. Nails and screws will be used as fasteners.

The installation of the beam underlying the lower trim involves laying it on the grillage, on which the roofing material is laid. The beam must be laid on a horizontally aligned grillage. Irregularities can be eliminated with a solution.

You can join the bars of the lower trim by sampling at the corners. Although there are a lot of sampling options, it is recommended to use 1 out of 2, both can be seen in Fig. 1.

In the corners, the bars can be connected with an anchor that fixes them to the foundation. The beams can be joined with nails, the minimum length of which should be 150 mm, 4 nails per corner should be used.

In those places where the bars are connected, a hole should be drilled with a diameter of 20 mm, a wooden dowel made of dried oak should be driven into it, it should be left 8-10 cm above the surface to fix the corner posts of the frame system.

In the absence of studs laid in the foundation, the beam can be fixed to the base with anchor bolts, the diameter of which is 16 mm. It should be driven into the base by 100 mm.

Next, you can proceed to fixing the beam of the lower harness with the help of anchors. Holes intended for anchors should be drilled in the concrete of the grillage. After that, in the strapping boards, it is necessary to form holes in the places intended for anchors. The beam must be fixed to the base by means of nuts, which are equipped with wide washers.

As soon as the bars of the lower strapping were strengthened between themselves and to the base, it is permissible to start working with the vertical racks of the frame. At this stage of building a house with your own hands, corner posts should be mounted. If the bottom rail in the corners was reinforced with anchors or nails, the corner post should be fixed with metal corners, for which it is preferable to use reinforced corners.

If dowels were used, then vertically located outlets should remain, and corner posts will have to be put on them. Why in the lower end of the rack it is necessary to make a hole with a diameter of 20 mm, its depth should be 1 cm more than the length of the protruding part of the dowel. Corner posts should be put on the dowel and strengthened with jibs.

The rest of the racks that make up the frame of the house can be attached to the harness by cutting or using galvanized metal corners, the thickness of which should be 2 mm. If you are building a house with your own hands, then you can prefer the method of attaching the racks with corners, which should be done using galvanized self-tapping screws designed for woodworking.

When reinforcing the racks by cutting, it is necessary to apply markings on the beam of the lower trim and equip the grooves according to the dimensions of the rack, their depth should be equal to the limit of 30-50% of the height of the beam, which makes up the bottom harness. Regardless of which method of fixing non-corner posts it was decided to use, they must be unfastened with jibs. It is permissible to install 2 jibs on a rack or 1 long one on several racks at the same time.

If the frame of the house does not have a pre-created layout for the walls, it must be taken into account that the step between the racks at the locations of the openings may be different. That is why now it is just possible to make a layout with dimensions.

The frame of the house at the corners in the process of attaching the bars of the upper trim should be joined by cutting down. To the vertical posts, the timber that makes up the upper trim should be fixed by the same method that was chosen for fixing the posts to the lower trim. Fastening should be done with wood screws.

If fastening is done by cutting, then before putting the bars on vertical racks, it is necessary to form grooves for the racks in them, it is important to ensure that the grooves are located strictly vertically with respect to the grooves in the lower trim.

After the grooves are ready, it is permissible to install the timber in place, on the vertical racks, and then fix it to the frame, you need to do this for each vertical rack, using 2 nails, which should be driven into the rack by 10 cm.

When building a house with your own hands, the wooden frame must gain rigidity and stability, for this you should use diagonal ties, which are called mowing. Each rack in the house must be fixed with 4 jibs, 2 of which must be placed from below, 2 others - respectively from above. But from the temporary jibs that were installed earlier, you should get rid of.

If the staves have a smaller section compared to the main posts, it is preferable to fix them closer to the inner skin of the frame system, this will allow a heat insulator to be placed between the jib and the outer skin.

The technology in which a do-it-yourself frame house is built, at the next stage, involves the fastening of shelf beams, where you can use one of the existing fixation options. So, the installation can be done using perforated metal brackets for the beam, in addition, it is possible to fix it using metal corners. Another method is to fasten by punching.

It is possible to support the beams by cutting on the beams that make up the upper harness by arranging grooves at the end of the beams, the width of which is equal to the width of the beam. The depth of the groove should be 30-50% of the height of the beam. The edges of the beams should be fixed to the top trim using 2 nails, recessing them into the rack by 10 cm.

For small and short parts that will form the basis of the frame of the building, the remains of long elements should be used. Those that turned out to be bent or deformed at the time of production are also suitable. Some materials can be reused.

So, the boards that were used for temporary fastening can be cut into permanent jibs. As a temporary spacer, formwork elements of the base of the house are suitable. Such reuse of materials should be planned in advance, then they will have to be purchased in much smaller quantities than originally planned.

Improper storage of lumber can lead to deterioration, which is detrimental to the economy, so they should be carefully protected from getting wet and dirty.

It should be remembered that the burning of lumber that has been treated with an antiseptic does not apply to savings. In particular, the burning of such materials should not be carried out in a bathhouse, as this is dangerous to health.

You can not only build a wooden frame house on your own, but also do it without the additional help of professionals, such technologies allow you to build the building process without skills in this area, because it is easier to build brick houses.

Do-it-yourself house frame will be easier to assemble if you purchase ready-made factory-made panels, and not wood for frame technology. However, it will be possible to save more in the latter case. After the end of the operational period, it is recommended that such houses not be repaired, but demolished and rebuilt, it will come out cheaper, and the foundation will no longer have to be mounted, since it will not collapse under such an easy building.

It is rapidly gaining popularity among individual developers. If in Canada it is a government program. In Russia, this means solving housing problems on your own, and in the shortest possible time with the lowest possible costs.

It is possible to build a frame with your own hands, even in the absence of special construction education, skills, and experience. To do this, you will have to make an effort, understand the technology, and also acquire the simplest skills for performing construction work. As a result, you can build a frame house with your own hands , and get at an affordable price an individual house for your special requests, needs, needs.

We give a detailed description of technological operations. Using technology, you can do it yourself (step-by-step instructions, 6x6 m 2 - the dimensions of the house that we took as a basis) with high quality.

Frame house: step by step instructions

We list the main steps that you need to follow in order to build a new frame house with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions will give you the right idea about construction.

Scheme of the frame wall.

1. Design - planning, thinking through the design of the house, the layout of the walls and rooms, doors and windows, plumbing fixtures, plumbing, sewerage, electrical wiring, heating. In the design process, a diagram of a frame house is drawn , which indicate the location of engineering networks and plumbing, heating devices. Working through the schemes of frame houses with your own hands , utility rooms, it is important to consider how the house will be heated - choose a heating system, a scheme for laying its elements. According to the finished scheme, step-by-step construction will be carried out.
2. Ground work is the preparation of a pit for the foundation and the actual construction of the foundation.
3. Assembling the frame of the walls and roof.
4. Construction of walls and subfloor.
5. External doors, windows and walls.
6. Interior decoration and internal doors.

And now let's go directly to the question, with our own hands, what to consider for high-quality construction and the correct execution of work.

DIY frame house

Preparatory work is necessary for any construction, especially if you decide to build a frame house, you will simply need step-by-step instructions. If you thought over the project of the house on your own, then you took into account the peculiarities of the location of the building on the site. If you bought a ready-made project and decided to implement it on the spot, then you will need to "attach" the building to your terrain. How to build a frame house, the instruction will be useful in the earliest stages of construction.

Do-it-yourself frame house step by step photo.

Site preparation

What you need to do on the site where I build a frame house with my own hands:

• Clean it from old buildings, if any, on the site, from construction debris and from stumps, snags.
• Provide the possibility of transporting building materials, clear the road for the car and a place for a U-turn.

Canopy for storing boards.

• Consider places for storing building materials; if the terrain is uneven, they should be located on elevations.
• Perhaps the site needs to be leveled, for this you need to call construction equipment.
• For some areas where frame construction is underway, the instruction will be relevant on how to build a fence to prevent the theft of materials.

Plot marking

Marking is understood as the designation of the location of the future structure on the ground. The scheme of the frame house is transferred to the area with the help of pegs and ropes. Pegs are driven into the ground and a rope is pulled between them, indicating the location of future outer walls.

Marking the site for construction.

Carefully measure all angles, observe degrees (clearly marked 90 °) and the length of the walls. Deviations of at least a few degrees are not allowed. They lead to the curvature of the structure and improper distribution of loads. As a result, it can reduce the strength of the entire structure and reduce its reliability.

Instructions for the foundation

The phased construction of a frame house with your own hands begins with the foundation. This is the basis of the house, a large, even and durable “stand”, on which the entire frame structure rests. It can be poured from concrete or assembled from ready-made concrete blocks.

Strip foundation for the frame.

Frame construction is called "light". The walls of the skeleton put much less pressure on the surface of the earth than capital structures made of bricks or monoliths made of concrete. The frame is also lighter than a log wooden house. Therefore, your building will need a small, shallow foundation.

On a note

When deciding with your own hands, you invariably face the issue of choosing designs and materials. For frame structures, shallow strip foundations or slabs are constructed. In some cases, foundations are made deep for frame builders.

This happens when the soil is unsteady, mobile, loose and the building is planned on the shore of the reservoir. In such a case, which will rely on deep and immovable layers of soil.

Strip foundation

It is a stone tape, a path buried in the ground by 100-400 mm. Above the ground, the foundation rises by 100-300 mm. Thus, the total height of the strip foundation for a frame house is 200-700 mm.

Strip foundation formwork with reinforcing mesh

On a note

You can make the foundation deeper and higher - but this is up to you, if you want to spend more building materials and get a more massive structure of the base of the house.

The foundation tape is poured into trenches prepared in advance. Concrete for pouring can be kneaded independently. Before pouring, a layer of sand is poured into the trenches and thereby a so-called sand cushion is made (thickness up to 100 mm) and metal reinforcement is laid.

slab foundation

The slab foundation is also called floating. The frame house will rise and fall with it, with seasonal expansions of the soil. Therefore, the plate must be strong enough.

The slab foundation is poured from concrete and reinforcement, while the reinforcement is tied with wire. The reinforcing mesh provides the frame house slab with the necessary strength.

The foundation is filled with a monolithic slab

The slab base can be minimally deepened into the ground by 100-200 mm, or concrete can be poured onto a gravel pad without deepening. The total height of the slab should be 200-300 mm.

For the foundation slab, it is important to ensure resistance to the rise of ground moisture. Therefore, when mixing concrete, a water-resistant additive is added to it. This will ensure the water resistance of the concrete slab and the dry floor inside the future premises. And also extend the durability of the foundation and the entire structure.

Pile screw foundation

To obtain a pile-screw foundation, you can use asbestos pipes or metal finished piles. For asbestos pipes, pits are prepared in which the pipe is installed and concrete is poured into it. Pre-reinforce, i.e. put metal fittings inside the pipe. Metal piles are screwed into the ground without excavating the soil, without digging a hole.

In order to make it easier and clearer, how to mount a pile-screw foundation and a frame house with your own hands – step by step photo.

Set of piles for screw foundation
Screwing piles for the foundation manually
Connection of screw piles of the foundation to each other
Pile screw foundation

Beam strapping

Horizontal beams are laid on top of the finished piles. This design is called a grillage. When you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, the step-by-step sequence begins with the installation of a grillage, which is also the lower trim of the frame with vertical fastening of racks on them.

For the lower trim, a wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm is chosen. This is the load-bearing element of the building, which must have sufficient strength and hold the walls, roof, trim and internal household appliances on itself.

To connect the corners of the strapping, choose one of the methods proposed in the picture - in half a tree or in a half paw.

Half tree connection options
Connection in half-tree and in half-paw

They differ in the thickness of the wood cut for the corner connection. Half-tree - exactly half the thickness of the beam is cut, half-paw - the beam is cut at an angle to each other. From above, the connection is strengthened with a metal bracket or plate. After that, the strapping angle is fixed to the foundation with a metal anchor. After the installation is completed, the timber is treated with an antiseptic.

Instructions for the subfloor

To build a frame house, the instruction will describe in detail the entire construction process. First of all, the floor of a frame house with your own hands consists of a rough layer and a finishing coat. The subfloor is made of concrete or wood. Finishing coating of wood, laminate, linoleum and other finishing materials.

Concrete subfloor

The concrete floor is poured over the ground. It is a multi-layer structure, in which there is a layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, reinforcing mesh.

Draft concrete floor - concrete screed

The bottom layer is sand 10 mm. On top - expanded clay insulation, sawdust with clay - the so-called adobe, foam. Further concrete with a waterproofing additive.

Wooden subfloor

If a tree is used to build a subfloor, then an empty space is formed under it.

Draft floor between lags

Wooden logs are laid on top of the bottom strapping and are used as a base, to which subfloor boards are nailed from below. Insulation is laid on the subfloor boards. Then the flooring is spread on the logs: laminate, linoleum, OSB, parquet.

Frame house installation

How to build a frame house with your own hands? The step-by-step construction scheme begins with the construction of the frame - one of the most important construction operations. It is important to choose the right beams and boards (size and section) and connect them correctly. What features arise when the installation of a frame house begins: racks, beams, jibs and crossbars? You can easily start building a frame house with your own hands, the video will step by step show all the main points of installing a house.

• The locations of the racks and joints of wooden elements are measured with a tape measure and marked with a pencil.
• Carefully check the verticality of the racks, the horizon of the upper trim and the angle of the connection. The angles between posts and beams should be 90°.
• For joining frame elements, the most reliable options are used - metal staples and nails.
• Installation of a frame house is carried out from elements assembled in advance on the ground - wall templates, trusses. They are lifted, installed, temporarily supported by oblique beams and then fixed with connecting elements.

Installation of walls in a frame house

Step-by-step construction of a frame house, the wall frame assembly technology is as follows:

1. Install the bottom trim.
2. The frame of each wall is assembled separately (lower, upper and vertical elements) - the so-called wall template. After the assembled template is completely lifted and installed on the lower harness.
3. A second upper trim is laid on top of the wall templates, on which the rafters for the roof are then placed.

On a note

It will take three people to lift the 6 m long wall template. The three of us to raise such a template is quite realistic. Longer walls are assembled from several templates and their joints are connected with special threaded connections.

The assembly of a frame house, photos and videos demonstrate the progress of construction operations - the assembly of the template and its installation in the place of the future wall.

jib

In some schemes for mounting a frame house, not only vertical and horizontal frame elements are used, but also inclined ones - the so-called jibs. They enhance the strength of the frame structure. They are made from boards 150-50 mm or 100-50 mm.

The correct location of the jibs

Rigel

Rigil is a horizontal board, which is attached next to the top trim board. The crossbar is attached to the template during the assembly process on the ground. For crossbars, wooden boards with a thickness of 50 mm or more are used.

Crossbar in the entire wall of a frame house

A crossbar is also called a horizontal support between sloping roof trusses. In general, a crossbar is any beam that works in compression.

corners

The corners of the frame bear the maximum load. Therefore, they are assembled from two or three support boards.

Options for fixing the corners of the frame wall

Internal walls

The frame of the inner walls is assembled from wall templates in the same way as the outer walls. Internal piers do not carry a large load, and therefore may be of a smaller section.

The main requirement for interior walls is sound insulation. Therefore, their thickness should ensure the installation of soundproofing material during the subsequent arrangement of walls and their insulation.

Windows and doors

After assembling the frame, windows and doors are installed in the openings provided for by the scheme. This work is easier to order from the manufacturer - along with installation in a window opening. As for the doors, their box can be successfully assembled independently from wooden boards 25-30 mm thick.

Instructions for proper insulation

The frame house is being built step by step, and now it is necessary to deal with the insulation of the house. High-quality insulation provides the ability to maintain a comfortable temperature in the winter, and also determines your future costs for paying for winter heating. Therefore, it is better to overdo it and insulate the frame house with your own hands well than to save money and insufficiently insulate the walls of the building. What is used for insulation:

• Mineral wool in the form of pressed mats- the best option for warming the frame structure. It allows air to pass through, provides air exchange, limits heat loss due to the fact that it does not conduct heat from the house to the street, does not cake and does not lose its properties over time. During installation, it shrinks a little and then straightens out, which ensures the absence of assembly seams, slots, through which heat losses also usually occur.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

• Styrofoam- rigid polyurethane foam boards. They have one advantage over mineral wool mats - they are cheaper in price. In all other respects they are inferior to cotton insulation. They do not shrink during installation and leave small gaps that must be blown out with foam. They do not let air through and do not provide air exchange. They require the construction of exhaust ventilation, with permanent residence in a residential building.

Since thermal insulation with mineral wool mats has clear advantages, let's turn to this technology.

• Mineral wool- Moisture-wicking material. Therefore, when installed inside the wall, it is closed from the outside with a special film. This film must be made of a membrane that will not stop air exchange. That is, the structure of the membrane must pass wet steam only on one side, i.e. do not let moisture in from the atmospheric air and let it out from the inside.

On a note

The use of polyethylene instead of a membrane negates the effort of building a "breathable" house wall. With the same success, you can insulate the wall with airtight foam.

• An external finishing material can also block the removal of moisture. Therefore, an air gap is provided between the membrane and the outer plates - a void or a layer of air with a thickness of 50 mm. Through it, that humid air that has accumulated in the frame wall will come out. For the construction of such a gap, a wooden crate is used - wooden planks 50x50 mm wide. They are mounted along the supports on top of the insulation. After that, the panels of the outer wall are attached to the crate.

step by step finishing

After mounting the walls, proceed to the interior wall decoration. The basis for finishing are panels of wall material, which were installed during the installation of the wall from the inside of the frame. The following materials are used as internal walls:

• Drywall GKL - is a natural material, environmentally friendly, with an absolutely flat surface that does not need to be plastered and leveled in any way. It is necessary to close up with putty only the joints between adjacent drywall slabs.

Wall decoration with plasterboard.

• Gypsum-fiber boards GVL - a variant of a plasterboard wall with higher strength indicators.
• OSB - wood-based material, chips connected with synthetic glue. It has a lower degree of environmental safety. In addition, it has a rough surface, requires plastering and puttying.

So, the sequence of operations when performing wall decoration is as follows:

• 1. Installation of an internal wall (GKL or OSB wall panels).
  2. Seal joints between panels. If it is drywall, then puttying and gluing the joints with paper tape. If OSB - then plastering the surface of the wood board.
  3. Primer for the appropriate wall finish. For wallpapering - primer with glue. For painting - primer for paint.
  4. Direct execution of wall decoration - wallpapering, painting, decorative plastering of the walls of the room.

If wall panels (MDF, cork) are used as wall decoration, then they turn to another finishing technology. They do not make a draft wall, but immediately mount the interior finishing material.

Finally, we offer you an interesting training video about building a frame house with your own hands (a video with a phased demonstration of technological operations).

It is important that the result is of high quality. If I build a frame house with my own hands, then I do everything reliably and correctly.