Here we will consider the question about, as they say, globally. We will determine how the waterproofing of the walls outside (the video - at the link above) differs from the waterproofing of the walls from the inside (basement or other room below ground level).
Let's start by examining the issue in relation to the protection of external walls, i.e. with vertical waterproofing.
Vertical waterproofing
When talking about waterproofing walls outside refers to all external enclosing walls that are in contact with the ground, may constantly contact water in the soil and must be protected from lateral exposure to moisture, i.e. to do vertical waterproofing.
Thus, these can be foundation walls, enclosing walls of an underground parking, walls of a pool dug into the ground, walls of an open-cut tunnel, etc. etc. And in order to prevent water from entering these walls and seeping into the premises, the walls are treated from the outside. This is vertical waterproofing.
It should be understood that vertical waterproofing is always arranged outside.
What is a rhetorical question? We remember the black comedy "Big Jackpot" (this is a delicate translation of the English word Snatch), where the head of the London organized criminal group Kirpich often used to say to his bodyguard "It was a rhetorical question from Erol." In the sense that you should not strain your brains and answer such questions.
When vertical waterproofing device liquid rubber, the complexity of the walls does not matter: height, height differences, bends, corners, abutments, etc. If it is up to 5m in height, then even scaffolding is not required, and 4 people in one work shift (8 ... 12 hours) will perform vertical waterproofing on an area from 600 to 1000m 2. Moreover, it is of high quality and with a guarantee: it will be impossible to remove the membrane from the bitumen-polymer emulsion from the walls in an hour or two.
Separately, as an element of vertical waterproofing, it should be mentioned about the basement waterproofing ..
Rules for the construction of vertical waterproofing
When installing vertical waterproofing, you should remember and follow a few basic rules to ensure high-quality and durable protection of walls from moisture.
- Walls on which waterproofing is applied or installed must be strong. Holes and cracks must be sealed. Caverns and chips should be repaired and leveled. Stones protruding from the walls, pieces of reinforcement, etc. should be cut off or knocked down. The surface should be optimally smooth. Using liquid rubber walls do not have to be dry for vertical waterproofing. This is especially important if vertical waterproofing is required. fixed formwork from expanded polystyrene.
- Dust, dirt, laitance, crumbling screeds, oil stains, etc. must be removed.
- All wall formwork elements (if they are no longer required, otherwise do not proceed with vertical waterproofing) should be dismantled.
- At all junctions of vertical walls at horizontal surfaces ( foundation slab outside or the basement floor inside the building) fillets should be made, i.e. output the abutments in a radius, with a rounding from 40 to 60 mm.
Once again, we note that the waterproofing of the walls outside and inside is different. The correct solution is to carry out vertical waterproofing device, i.e. waterproofing walls outside... If this is not done or done poorly, then repair of the vertical waterproofing will soon be required.
And then the right decision would be - to repair, again, - outside. But for this it is necessary to excavate the building around the perimeter, which is fraught with a large volume earthworks (as side effect - violation of the landscape, the death of green spaces). In addition, apart from the fact that it will take people, time and money, it is not always possible to dig out a building.
Ok if it is a private house in the countryside. And if a high-rise building in the city, buried 8 meters? Other houses are piled up around, utilities, pipes are laid, roads are asphalted, etc. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the structure of the soil, groundwater, relief. The fact is that if you take out a lot of soil in one place, then the soil may "float away" or collapse tens of meters from the excavated area.
Therefore, it is often impossible or very expensive to make the correct repair of vertical waterproofing. And, as a consequence, they are trying to solve the problem at least somehow. This means the walls do not protect from water from the outside, but from the inside.
Waterproofing walls from the inside
So, waterproofing the walls from the inside, as a rule, is performed only later, when the house was commissioned and the basement was flooded in the fall or spring. Tearing off the foundation around the entire perimeter is long and expensive.
Waterproofing the walls from the inside does not provide a 100% guarantee of protection against flooding, and most importantly, from the destruction of concrete. It should be understood that even if you no longer see water in the basement, this does not mean that it has stopped "attacking" underground part building. Water still seeps into the walls, causing the concrete to leach out. The water inside the concrete expands when it freezes and destroys the walls. This occurs to the depth of freezing, if the thermal insulation of the waterproofing and the insulated wide blind area were not provided. About frosty heaving of soil and.
Nevertheless, let us emphasize once again that in some cases there is no other way out, because it is no longer possible to repair the waterproofing of the foundation from the outside (with dense urban development, communications have been laid, the territory has been ennobled, etc.). Therefore, there remains only an option - from the inside.
Vertical waterproofing walls from the inside Is a waterproofing of the basement walls. In this case, it is also imperative to lay the waterproofing on the basement floor. Then, along the walls and floor, create a rigid frame that can resist the pressure of water.
Pressure wall for vertical waterproofing
Suppose there is no such framework. Then, after a while, bubbles will appear on the walls of the basement or bulges will form on the floor. If they are pierced, water will flow from there. Why?
Because the water entering from the outside (there is no waterproofing outside or it is broken), "travels" in the concrete and goes into the basement, but encounters an obstacle in the form of liquid rubber waterproofing. This coating is strong enough and resistant to water, it cannot be torn.
But water erodes and destroys concrete in a certain area on which waterproofing is applied, as a result of which the area of \u200b\u200bcontact between water and waterproofing membrane increases. Both the pressure and the amount of water seeping through the wall increase. Water still cannot tear the coating, because the liquid rubber membrane is an elastic waterproofing material.
Summarize.
Talking about vertical waterproofing or waterproofing walls, imply protection from water of the walls of the foundation outside. But it should be understood that solid foundation, Is not only a foundation waterproofing device (both vertical and horizontal). In order to guarantee the dryness of underground walls and, accordingly, dryness in underground rooms, it is necessary to perform in conjunction with insulation and drainage, as well as to protect the vertical waterproofing.
Continuing this article about vertical waterproofing, it is recommended to read about foundation waterproofing on the www.site on the page http: //www..html.
So! A reputable design organization gave the future owner of a private house a complete set of drawings. The client, following the advice of his friends, found an organization capable of carrying out an examination of this project. Inaccuracies, errors, missing parts, units were identified, elements of foundations, walls, ceilings, roof structures were corrected ... Everything, the project can be transferred to the builders and start building your dream.
Construction services were offered by firms with a name, and not very noticeable, but with good recommendations, there were offers from the "wild" brigades. After much deliberation, preference was given to the handsome head of the construction organization, who showed several photographs of objects built by unknown person, recommendations of reputable customers. A respectable office, a pleasant manager, a contract that provides for all sorts of options ... Shook hands!
The situation is quite typical.
At the construction site, however, things are not developing so optimistically. It turned out that the builders, striving for maximum profit, use "specialists" of very dubious qualifications, the materials are far from the best, the foreman began to appear at the facility less and less often, and all this began to lead to defects, defects, often difficult to fix.
Let's try to dwell briefly on typical construction defects.
Excavation. Foundation
The cost of building a "zero cycle" can be more than a quarter of the cost of the entire house. Defects made during the production of these works can be eliminated as a couple in the future, or it becomes extremely expensive. A pit was dug, trenches for the future foundations of the house. Excess soil was not taken out of the construction site, its planning was not completed. Trenches and foundation pit are filled with water. The base for the foundations is broken. Additional costs are required.
We prepared and installed reinforcing cages for future foundations in the formwork, but forgot to put clamps to create a protective layer. Unprotected reinforcement quickly rusts, very soon the reinforced concrete foundations will turn into concrete - with all further possible deformations.
The foundations were concreted, and they began to waterproof. The surfaces of the walls of the basement or the basement in the sinks are not cleaned, they are coated with bituminous mastic or glued roll waterproofing is carried out on the same unprepared surface. If this work is not done according to the rules - be in the basement with water, the house cannot be deformed.
Thermal insulation is usually laid along the walls of the basement. Paved in one layer of 100 mm. The joints are not closed. The defense effect is weak. Correctly 2 layers of 50 mm each and with overlapping joints - then everything is as it should. A trifle, but important for the home.
Another variant. "Forgot" to insulate the basement walls. The need for insulation is due to the fact. that the heat loss through the underground part of the building is up to 20% of the total heat loss. Without thermal insulation of the basement walls, condensation, dampness, and mold are inevitable.
The pressure wall protects the insulation from wet soil and water. It must be plastered or the seams are trowelled and coated with 2 layers of bituminous mastic. This is often done casually. This means that the design is useless and the costs for it are not justified.
We proceed to backfilling of trenches. Where are our "frogs" for layer-by-layer soil compaction, why did clay soil go into the backfill, which is capable of squeezing out foundations in winter due to its heaving properties?
Backfilling should be carried out only with sandy or sandy-gravelly soil with its obligatory layer-by-layer compaction.
After filling the trenches, it is supposed to complete the entire overlap pie for the floors of the 1st floor. If this monolithic slab, should be provided sand preparation, waterproofing in concrete preparation, thermal insulation and the plate itself. It needs an eye and an eye.
Often they miss something. Poorly installed insulation, not designed or of the wrong thickness, and the floors in the house will never be comfortable. To protect the insulation from moisture, it must be insulated with a layer of vapor barrier material, which must be laid above the insulation, and not under it, because water vapor flows from warm rooms to cold ones. If the film is placed not on top of the insulation, but on the bottom - there will be trouble, the floors will be cold, as if there were no thermal insulation at all.
And further. Air vents are required to ensure ventilation of the underground and basements. If they are not fulfilled, the insulation of the floor will be wet and dampness, fungus, mold are inevitable.
The slab is laid. It is necessary to prepare for the blind area around the building, complete the vertical layout, remove all excess soil, and plan the remaining so that water cannot get under the foundations of the building. This work is often not performed during the entire construction. The result is water in the basement, costly additional work.
Acts should be drawn up for all works of the "zero" cycle hidden works, keep logs of earth, concrete, reinforcement works.
And this is just the beginning!
Walls of the future building, floors, installation of windows and doors. Preparing for future floors. Masonry partitions made of bricks 120 and 250 mm thick. Jumper device. Roof frame construction works. The device of the roof itself with all the elements and devices necessary for it. Implementation of a very important constructive “pie” of the roof itself with its obligatory ventilation system, without which the roof is not a roof and life under it will never be full.
And this is not a complete list of works for which you need an eye and an eye of a qualified certified specialist with extensive experience in construction sites for various purposes. Control over compliance with the project and Building Norms, the quality of materials, the required sequence of work, timely inspection of hidden work, prevention of marriage - this is an incomplete list of what the experts of ASK "Quality Advocate" LLC carry out at the facilities entrusted to them.
General requirements for waterproofing
Foundation waterproofing
When to do foundation waterproofing
Slab foundation waterproofing
Waterproofing strip foundation
Waterproofing of pillar and pile foundations
Base / plinth waterproofing
Basement waterproofing
What materials should not be used to waterproof the foundation and basement
General requirements for waterproofing.
We often do not attach due importance to waterproofing and after a while we observe the results of the destructive effect of water on the structure of the house.
Non-waterproof basement
It is much easier to prevent these consequences. To do this, it is important to protect such structures from moisture:
house walls
floors on the ground
nodes of adjoining door and window openings.
foundation
basement floor and walls
If you pay attention, almost all house structures are listed here, except, probably, internal partitions.
So, how to make the correct waterproofing of the foundation, basement and other structures? The waterproofing layer of any structure must be continuous and without breaks over the entire insulated surface. A waterproofing layer is installed on the side of the structure, on which the hydrostatic head acts, or there is a threat of capillary rise and water seepage.
Foundation waterproofing.
When do you need to waterproof your foundation?
Any foundation should be protected from two types of water: surface (precipitation) and groundwater (groundwater).
The blind area protects from penetration and negative impact on the foundation of surface water. And this is its main function. You can read more about the blind area in the article: Blind area. The device of the blind area at home. And if there is surface water in any area and blind area, thus, should be done always and by everyone, without exception, then groundwater and, accordingly, waterproofing from them is not always needed. To say that there is no groundwater in any area and there is no need to waterproof the foundation would be wrong. Indeed, in our area, underground waters are almost everywhere. The question is the depth of their occurrence relative to the basement level, as well as the level of seasonal uplift groundwater during the spring flood.
1. Waterproofing of the foundation must be done if the ground water level (GWL) is located at a depth of less than 1 meter from the bottom of the foundation. This value is indicated taking into account the spring rise of the groundwater level, since it often happens that the groundwater level located at the same depth in summer, in spring due to the melting of snows, rises 1 - 2 meters higher. With such an arrangement of the groundwater level, waterproofing will protect the foundation from capillary rise of groundwater and for this purpose, a coating waterproofing will be sufficient.
2. If the groundwater level lies at a depth of more than 1 m from the bottom of the foundation, then waterproofing, in principle, can not be done. But I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the GWL tends to increase not only seasonally - in spring, but also over time (over the years) due to an increase in building density, due to the arrangement of drainages in neighboring areas, asphalting of adjacent territories, as well as when creating non-waterproof artificial reservoirs at a distance of even 1 km. Such changes are usually called long-term GWL fluctuations. Considering them, even with a low GWL, it is advisable to make at least the most inexpensive waterproofing of the foundation - coating, especially in the presence of a basement.
3. If the groundwater level is high - above the bottom of the foundation, then in addition to waterproofing, drainage must also be done to drain water from the foundation.
Groundwater level above the level of the bottom of the foundation
Why can't you do just waterproofing? When water is above the level of the foot of the foundation, it creates hydrostatic pressure on the foundation, which reduces the force of the foundation pressure against the foundation. Those. in simple words, the support force of the foundation decreases, as a result of which the foundation can shift and even overturn if left unloaded on such soils for example for the winter. Therefore, the foundation needs not only to be protected from excess moisture, but also to lower the GWL. And drainage makes it possible to lower the groundwater level and thereby reduce the hydrostatic pressure on the foundation, which waterproofing does not provide.
Lowering GWL
4. Sometimes, serious waterproofing of the foundation should be done regardless of the groundwater level. There is a need for this if the construction of a house is planned on waterproof or so-called waterproof soils (clay, loam) with layers of permeable soil. Because such soils do not allow surface water to easily leave permeable areas into the lower layers of the soil, and the water moves along the path of least resistance, namely, to the foundation. Therefore, it must be waterproofed.
Construction on waterproof soil
Soils with a filtration coefficient k<10 -6 cm / s. Filtration coefficient, k, cm / s (accepted characteristic of soil water permeability) has the following values \u200b\u200bfor different soils:
sands10 -2 -10 -4
sandy loam and loam10 -3 -10 -8
clay10 -7 -10 -10 .
5. Regardless of the groundwater level and the type of foundation, it is very important to pay attention to the composition of groundwater (GW), which is shown by engineering and geological surveys. In some areas, aggressive HSs are found. They negatively affect the bearing capacity of concrete, simply destroying it, which is commonly called concrete corrosion.
Concrete corrosion
Therefore, to protect such foundations, it is recommended to construct them from moisture-resistant concrete of grade W4 and higher (according to clause 2.9. SNiP 2.03.11-85). And all waterproofing materials used for such foundations must be resistant to aggressive environments. The most dangerous for concrete and mortars are pressurized aggressive groundwater.
Further we will analyze the types of waterproofing for different foundations. You can choose the right waterproofing if you know the type of foundation, and how "pressure head" groundwater is, so a few words about it. All groundwater is conventionally divided into suspended, non-pressure, low-pressure, and pressure.
Unconfined groundwater- are in direct contact with the atmosphere through the open pores of the permeable medium.
Pressure water separated from the atmosphere by relatively impermeable rocks, they have sufficient pressure to pour out on the surface of the earth.
Low-pressure water are in transitional conditions characteristic of both pressure and non-pressure waters.
Suspended waters- the first unconfined waters from the earth's surface are located above the main zone of unconfined waters and represent more or less isolated accumulations of water.
An example of the occurrence of aquifers
Figure shows the typical occurrence of aquifers represented by sedimentary rocks. (Rice Pressurized, non-pressurized aggressive waters). In the position when well 1 is laid, the water of horizon B is considered suspended, and the water of horizon C is free-flow. Well 2 passes through the suspended water of horizon A, unconfined water of horizon B, and confined water of horizons C and D. Well 3 penetrates confined waters in all horizons, except for horizon A.
Thus, in a small area with a simple geological structure within one aquifer, water can be suspended, free-flow and pressure
Wherever the groundwater level is located, the base of any foundation must be laid with a layer of permeable material, for example sand + crushed stone.
Crushed stone cushion from capillary rise of hot water
Such a cushion interrupts the capillary rise of groundwater.
Capillary rise of hot water
Below we will consider how to make waterproofing of the foundation of various types and the features inherent in each type.
Slab foundation waterproofing.
Slab foundation
It is recommended to waterproof the slab foundation with rolled roofing material. The waterproofing layer is placed on the foundation slab. If its surface is uneven, then a leveling screed is first made. Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing, a screed is made over it, and a floor covering is already placed on the screed.
Waterproofing strip foundation.
The strip foundation can be waterproofed in various ways.
1. Covering with bitumen mastic.
Coating with bituminous mastic
The most economical option. Suitable in such cases: protection of the foundation from possible capillary rise of groundwater level, protection of the foundation from possible penetration of surface water. The coating waterproofing does not protect against pressure water, since it cannot withstand a set of more than 2 meters. This waterproofing is most often and most easily damaged, and therefore most often it leaks, since it does not tolerate shear and tensile loads. Therefore, such waterproofing must be applied on a flat surface, which must be pre-dried, round the corners of the house, and also protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage. Such waterproofing is usually damaged when filling the pit with backfill soil, which often contains construction debris (stones, fragments of reinforcement, glass, etc. debris).
You can protect:
ePS insulation (considering that the foundation should be insulated to the level of soil freezing);
EPPS waterproofing protection
roll geotextile, can be needle-punched, it is cheaper than thermally bonded, the required density is at least 180 g / sq. m;
a pressure wall made of brick, this is sometimes done, but the option is quite laborious and expensive, therefore it is inferior to the two above-described options for protecting waterproofing;
if the pit is backfilled with soft soil without debris, for example, sand, then it is enough to protect the waterproofing only at the corners of the house, with geotextile strips 20 cm wide.
2. Waterproofing with roll material.
Waterproofing roll material
Roofing material is most often used from roll materials. This is a slightly more expensive option than a waterproofing seal, but more durable and durable. If the backfill soil does not contain debris, then such waterproofing may not be protected. The foundation surface must be flat. The foundation is processed with hot bitumen mastic, on which at least 2 layers of roofing material are glued with an overlap of 10-20 cm.
3. Sprayed waterproofing.
Sprayed waterproofing
Very easy and quick to apply with a special spray. Easily repeats all the unevenness of the foundation, does not need special surface preparation, except for cleaning from dust. More expensive material than conventional bitumen mastic. Requires mandatory reinforcement with thermally bonded geotextile material with a density of at least 130 g / sq. m, which simultaneously performs for this waterproofing and protective function. The material is quite expensive and it is economically profitable to use it for foundations of complex shapes (which are difficult to glue with roll material) or for a foundation laid very close to another building (that is, if such a foundation is very inconvenient to waterproof due to the lack of free access to it).
In addition to the methods described, you can perform waterproofing by applying 25-30 mm of cement mortar with a water pressure of up to 20 m.
Waterproofing with cement mortar
It is also possible to waterproof the foundation with various waterproofing materials of a penetrating action (a mixture of cement, quartz sand and active additives), which protects the foundation from excess moisture and some chemical compounds (depending on the brand of waterproofing), but this material is quite expensive.
Penetrating waterproofing
Foundation waterproofing for foundation pit with 90 ° walls.
Pit with a slope angle of the walls of 90 degrees.
Sometimes the foundation is erected close to the walls of the pit, this is the only possible option in the cramped conditions of construction. In this case, the pit is erected with walls at an angle of 90 °, pressure walls are erected close to the walls of the pit, waterproofing material is nailed to them (or first drainage, and then waterproofing, depending on the groundwater level). The formwork is installed at a distance from the pressure wall equal to the width of the future foundation. And in the resulting formwork (on the one hand, the pressure wall with waterproofing, on the other, the formwork is simply laid with the reinforcement connected in advance and the foundation is poured. The pressure wall with waterproofing in this case is called "lost formwork", since it is not removed, but remains in the ground If, in cramped conditions, a foundation is erected from blocks, then the blocks are placed at a short distance from the pressure wall and the resulting distance between the block foundation and the waterproofed pressure wall is filled with mortar.
Protection of walls against moisture capillary rise.
Capillary rise of moisture
Anti-capillary waterproofing in the walls is laid on a plinth, which usually ends at a level of 15-50 cm above ground level. The surface of the basement is pre-leveled, dried and covered with a layer of bitumen mastic. Then 2 layers of roofing material are laid. This waterproofing is called a continuous strip and must completely cross the entire thickness of the wall and the internal plaster.
Protection of walls from moisture capillary rise
Waterproofing of pillar and pile foundations.
Waterproofing of pile foundations is done on a grillage.
It is extremely difficult to waterproof piles and pillars, it will take a lot of time and effort in the case of pillars and almost impossible in the case of piles. Therefore, such pillars or piles are recommended to be made of moisture-resistant concrete of grade W4 and higher for non-aggressive hot water and from grade W6 and higher for aggressive ones.
The foundation of wooden piles must be treated with an anti-corrosion solution.
Wooden pile foundation
At the same time, it is important to remember that it is not advisable to take measures to lower the GWL, i.e. do any drainage, since wooden piles do not rot only when they are completely in the water. Otherwise, there is a great risk of reducing their service life.
Basement waterproofing.
Base / plinth waterproofing
The plinth from the outside up to the level of the continuous gasket (10 -50 cm from the ground level) must be waterproofed in order to protect the wall of the house from surface water. The fact is that the average height of the snow cover is usually 10-50 cm, and raindrops fighting off from the blind area most of all soak 10-50 cm from the ground level. That is why the plinth must be covered with a waterproof material, for example, water-repellent tiles.
Basement waterproofing.
For a house with a basement, a waterproof blind area is required, which will reduce the flow of surface water to the walls of the basement.
The basement floor is waterproofed using concrete preparation. Waterproofing from 2 layers of rolled bitumen material is very suitable for these purposes.
The basement walls are waterproofed according to the same principle as the strip foundation, which was described above. Also for waterproofing a basement, waterproofing from bentonite mats is very effective.
Bentonite mats
It is a modern compact analogue of the classic clay castle. The material is bentonite enclosed in textile material on both sides. Easy to install, while replacing 1 meter of clay (classic clay castle).
If the groundwater at the site is pressure-bearing and it is necessary to drain around the perimeter of the basement, it is very important to remember that drainage starts to work only from the moment the water from the drainage material (entering further into the drainage pipes at the base of the foundation) begins to be discharged, for example, into the storm sewer ... Up to this point, there may even be water in the pit, despite the fact that all the drainage materials have already been laid.
I want to draw your attention - do not regret the basement waterproofing and do it very carefully. And if you hire builders for this work, then carefully control this stage. Because this is the kind of work that is difficult to fix when leaks already appear. Indeed, to repair the waterproofing of the basement, you have to re-open the foundation pit. And by this time, there is often a blind area and the adjacent territories are partially inhabited. Therefore, basement waterproofing should be taken seriously.
If it so happened that for some reason the basement began to leak, then the best option would be to re-open the pit and replace the fully or partially damaged waterproofing. If there is no opportunity to open the pit, for example, due to the density of the building, then waterproofing can be done from the inside of the basement. But in this case, the walls will unfortunately continue to get wet, despite the fact that from the inside of the basement they will look dry.
What materials should not be used to waterproof the foundation and basement.
The foundation and basement cannot be waterproofed with roofing films (waterproofing, vapor barrier) and membranes, including windproof ones. These materials are too thin and are designed for loose laying with sagging (they cannot even be pulled). In addition, films and membranes will not withstand friction against the surface of the foundation due to constant seasonal movements of the soil, not to mention the fact that they are not designed for protection from pressurized groundwater. Therefore, their use for waterproofing foundations and basements is impractical.
It is not economically feasible to use UV-stabilized materials for these purposes, for example, UV-stabilized PVC membrane. Since UV-resistant materials are more expensive, this function will simply not be used underground.
Thawed water and groundwater are the reasons why the life of the foundation and the residential building as a whole is reduced several times. From time immemorial, this has been fought by any means. A lot of experience has been accumulated. But until now, the owners of private houses are concerned about such a question as basement waterproofing.
Waterproofing methods
First of all, it is necessary to decide on which side the waterproofing process will be carried out: from the inside or from the outside. The best option is outside.
Outdoor
Even at the stage of building the foundation, it is worth protecting it from moisture. There are several options here:
- Coating room.
- Plastering.
- Okalechnaya.
One of the best options: apply plaster mortar to the walls of the foundation, treat it with hot bitumen, and then raise the wall next to half a brick. In addition, blind areas with a width of 1.5 m are poured, storm sewers are installed.
If the water table is high enough, then drainage must be arranged.
Internal
Internal waterproofing of basements is carried out in the event that the external was performed poorly or the level of groundwater is so high that it creates a lot of pressure on the walls of the foundation. They, in turn, cannot withstand the pressure of water. Although precipitation also creates conditions for moisture penetration into the basement. There are three main types of basement insulation from the inside: 
- Anti-pressure.
- Free-flow.
- Anti-capillary.
The first is used if the groundwater level is above the basement floor. Second, if the amount of precipitation in the region is large enough. 
The third option is the so-called. It (the most modern) is used today more often than others under any operating conditions of the building.
Waterproofing materials
Waterproofing materials on the market are represented by a large assortment. All of them can be roughly divided into several categories. It all depends on the method of application and on the principle of action: coating, hydrophobic (injection), gluing (roll), penetrating. 
Next, consider how and how to make a basement waterproofing in a private house. We will pay special attention to the choice of materials, their exact purpose and the method of application to the nodes of the structures of the house.
Coating
This category mainly includes various types of mastics based on bitumen, cement or polymers. Some are applied cold, others hot. 
Bituminous mastic and cement mixtures are applied in a thick layer, polymer emulsions in a thin layer.
Mechanism of action
Many professionals prefer to work with cold mastics. They create a thick protective layer on the walls of the basement in a private house, which penetrates into all cracks in concrete or brickwork. A seamless film with a high elasticity index forms on the surface. 
Please note that special bituminous mastic is used for the joints (knots). The contact point is first embroidered, then filled with cement mortar, and after it dries, it is treated with mastic.
Application method
The technology for applying the mastic is quite simple. This will require either a brush or a roller. The material is applied according to the type of paint. The main thing is to evenly distribute the mastic over the entire surface to be treated. The stripes are applied overlapping each other. 
Some mastics are called liquid rubber. These include the "Elastomix" or "Elastopaz" brands.
Note that this is a good way to waterproof a basement, but it can only be used if the foundation is insulated externally. Liquid rubber itself cannot withstand the pressure of water, even with low pressure.
In the category of waterproofing materials, liquid glass occupies a certain place. Someone treats him with distrust, someone considers him an excellent waterproofing agent. 
In any case, the technology of its use has been known for a long time.
Application technique
Liquid glass is most often applied outside the foundation. In this case, it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2. Seams and knots of the structure are treated with special attention. The main requirement is a durable and even surface without grease and oil stains. Therefore, before applying liquid glass to the processed plane, the latter will have to be prepared. 
The material is applied with a brush, brush or roller. In fact, this is all the same basement by the type of painting. There is another option for using liquid glass. It is introduced into a cement plaster mortar, which is used to process the walls of the basement inside. Such mixtures create an excellent waterproofing layer.
Oleechnye
It can be used both outside and inside. Most often it is used outside. For this, the walls of the foundation are prepared: they are leveled to a difference of 2 mm, treated with a bitumen emulsion, then rolls (roofing material, roofing felts and others) are laid in overlapping strips. The seams are processed continuously, that is, two strips cannot be joined at the junction of two planes. 
Roll waterproofing is very sensitive to mechanical stress, therefore, experts advise installing a brick pressure wall to the foundation. This is done with roofing felt, and with waterproofing, and with other materials.
Penetrating
Penetrating waterproofing is a modern technology that is mainly used for interior finishing. Its main purpose is to make the concrete waterproof. 
Today it is the best waterproofing for basements that you can do yourself.
Composition and properties
In fact, this is a mixture that includes cement, quartz sand and active chemical additives. It is the latter that penetrate deep into the concrete structure, clogging the capillaries through which water penetrates into the room. Penetration depth up to 25 cm.
Mode of application
In order for the penetrating waterproofing to last for a long time after application, it is necessary to clean the concrete wall from efflorescence. This can be done by hand with an iron brush. But it is better to use a drill with an iron brush on it or rinse the surface with water under pressure. In any case, the surface to be treated must be moistened. And the deeper the moisture penetrates into the concrete, the deeper the chemically active additives will also penetrate, clogging the capillaries. 
Experts recommend applying 5 liters of water to 1 m² of surface. The best option is to apply water in several layers, absorbing the previous one. The solution itself is applied to the walls in two layers with a brush, spatula or roller. The second layer is applied perpendicular to the first one after the last one must dry. Then one more moistening of the treated surfaces is carried out with a small amount of water. 
But this option has one drawback - it can only be used for processing concrete structures. At the same time, the quality of concrete must be high with cracks no more than 0.4 mm deep.
Hydrophobic
Hydrophobic injection basement waterproofing is one of the best, but very complex technologies for protecting basements from water. For this, various gels based on polymers or acrylates are used. 
The essence of the principle of operation of this type of insulation lies in the fact that gels, in contact with water, begin to harden. Therefore, they are pumped into the places of penetration of groundwater from special containers or cans. For this, holes with a diameter of 12-20 mm are drilled in the concrete walls and floor. Some holes are through, others are blind. They are distributed alternately every 30-50 cm. It is difficult to carry out this type of waterproofing on your own. It is especially difficult to determine the location of moisture penetration. Therefore, this work cannot be done without specialists.
Waterproofing scheme
Do-it-yourself basement waterproofing usually includes several types of work. Everything will depend on the GWA.
If the level is high, then it is necessary first of all to build a drainage system, coat the outer walls of the foundation with bitumen mastic or stick roll waterproofing, raise the pressure wall. 
Then go inside the basement and treat all surfaces (floor and walls) with anti-capillary protection and liquid rubber.
Low water table
If the groundwater level is low, then good blind areas and storm drainage must be built without fail. External coating insulation or pasting (for example, roofing material) is made. 
From the inside, it is best to use an integrated approach using multiple materials.
Internal work progress
A multi-layer insulation device is a guarantee of protection of the room from moisture. You can find out how to correctly perform the whole range of works below.
Surface preparation
You need to start with preparation. For this, the floors and walls are leveled. You can pour a screed on the floor, plaster the walls. Then capillary waterproofing is applied to all surfaces using a brush or roller. 
Insulation layer 1-2 mm. We are waiting for everything to dry out. Then there is another layer of the same kind.
Laying material
The roll material can now be used. Its strips are laid in the form of a trough, that is, from the upper edge of the wall along the floor to the upper edge of the opposite wall. 
The best option is to lay in two layers, perpendicular to each other with an overlap. Roll material can be replaced with coating material.
Let's talk about waterproofing
In recent years, the building materials market has been flooded with all kinds of waterproofing, differing from each other in purpose, structure, technical characteristics, installation technology, quality and, of course, price. There are as many technologies as there are waterproofing materials themselves. For example, laying a roll of waterproofing on mastic, gluing them with tape or welding seams with special devices. There are also types of cement-based waterproofing, coating bitumen, resins, etc.
The use of modern modified dry mixes today opens up wide opportunities for waterproofing work. Waterproofing polymer-mineral compositions are widely used for waterproofing concrete and plastered surfaces of underground and ground structures: foundations, basements, hydraulic structures. Moreover, in each specific case, the appropriate technology and composition with the required characteristics should be selected. According to the principle of action, waterproofing compounds based on dry mixtures can be divided into coating and penetrating waterproofing. The principle of action of penetrating waterproofing is based on the penetration of chemically active substances present in the composition into concrete and their interaction with cement minerals with the formation of water-insoluble crystals on the walls of pores and capillaries. The materials providing the formation of the crystallization barrier are produced by a very limited number of foreign companies and are represented mainly by products from Canada and the USA.
Lubricating waterproofing is a coating with a thickness of 3 - 4 mm, applied to an insulated building structure. This waterproofing, depending on its composition, can be rigid or elastic. Elastic is used for waterproofing structures operating in places of increased dynamic loads.
The construction market offers a large selection of waterproofing materials. Moreover, each of them has a certain area of \u200b\u200bapplication, which is determined by operational characteristics, technological features of the application and economic feasibility.
The technology for waterproofing foundations, toilets, basements, basements, swimming pools, hydraulic structures, etc., is carried out in building conditions using modified dry mixes for special purposes. Depending on the type of polymer binder, waterproofing is divided into rigid (one-component) and elastic (one- or two-component). A one-component composition is a dry mixture consisting of mineral binders, mineral fillers, modifying additives and a polymer binder in the form of a dispersion powder.
The two-component composition is a dry mixture consisting of mineral binders, mineral fillers, modifying additives and a polymer binder in the form of an aqueous polymer dispersion with a low film formation temperature. The choice of waterproofing composition in each case is determined by the project. The waterproofing composition must meet the requirements of the regulatory documents according to which it is produced. Waterproofing compounds are prepared centrally at the factory and at the construction site are brought to a finished state by adding water (or aqueous polymer dispersion). During transportation and storage, it should be excluded from getting into the composition of atmospheric precipitation and exposure to direct sunlight. The use of mixtures after the expiration of the shelf life is allowed only after checking them for compliance with the requirements of the regulatory document. Waterproofing work inside the premises should be performed at an ambient temperature and a working surface not lower than + 5C and an air humidity of not more than 70%. These conditions must also be maintained at least two days before the start of work and all the time until the facility is put into operation. External waterproofing works should be carried out at a temperature not lower than + 5C and not higher than + 30C. It is not allowed to carry out work: during rain or immediately after it, with a wind speed of which exceeds 10 m / s, in the presence of ice on the working surfaces, with direct exposure to the working surfaces of direct sunlight.
The production process of waterproofing works consists of the following stages:
surface preparation, preparation of compounds (primer, putty, plaster, waterproofing) for use, applying a waterproofing composition.
For each specific object, it is necessary to clarify the scheme of work production, their volume, labor costs, duration of work production, depending on the materials used and the need for material and technical resources.
Main functions
We will not talk about the advantages or disadvantages of this or that material, we will only say that when installing waterproofing for underground structures, strict adherence to the installation technology is not always a sufficient factor to ensure reliable protection from groundwater. Even small imperfections or inaccuracies in the installation of waterproofing over time develop into serious problems. For example, if, when plastering a basement with a waterproofing compound, the mixture was prepared in the wrong proportions or the layer was laid a little thinner, as a result microscopic capillary cracks form. This leads to the fact that water, under the influence of hydrostatic pressure, finds weak points and gradually destroys such waterproofing.
Difficulties can also arise with external roll waterproofing at the seams. Even if the work is done well, the influence of hydrostatic pressure can seriously disrupt any waterproofing. In addition, water creates an additional load on the underground part of the structure and affects its overall reliability. In some cases, exposure to water can lead to leaching of soil particles, a violation of the bearing capacity of the foundation and, as a result, to the destruction of the building foundation. When solving such problems, wall drainage can be indispensable. The main functions of drainage are collection and removal of groundwater. There are free-flowing drainage materials (gravel, sand), as well as various drainage mats. To ensure reliable protection of waterproofing and effective removal of hydrostatic pressure, the Enkadrain drainage mat can be distinguished.
Enkadrain is a volumetric roll-on composite material consisting of a drainage layer between a non-woven filter on one side and a waterproofing layer on the other. The drainage layer consists of tough and durable twisted polyamide threads, fastened together at the intersection points and forming an open volumetric structure. The filter is made of non-woven material 0.7 mm thick, and consisting of polyester fibers, and the hydro-vapor barrier layer is covered with PVC (polyvinyl chloride). Thanks to its design, Jenkadrain collects and removes all water that affects the underground part of the structure.
Water that penetrates through the filter into the inner structure of the mat loses its pressure and flows down, falling into the drainage pipe. External Enkadrain filters have a wonderful property - they don't get silted up. Clay soil particles pass through the filter and are washed out with water through the drainage layer. Coarse soil particles are captured by the filter and prevent further fine particles from entering the drainage layer. The structure of Enkadrain provides high drainage characteristics, and most importantly - durable operation of the material in difficult conditions. In addition, when using Enkadrain, there is no need to install expensive multi-layer waterproofing, since the drainage mat relieves the pressure of groundwater and protects the waterproofing surface from mechanical damage. The mats are supplied in rolls of 30-45 m, the width of the mat is 1 m, the thickness is 22 mm. Enkadrain has special filter outlets of 10 cm on each side, which protect the joint seams and prevent soil from entering the drainage layer from the end sides. The material is easy to cut and fit with various structural elements. One of the main advantages of the material is the convenience and ease of installation, which practically does not require special skills during installation. The material is shot to the wall or glued with mastic during the installation work. A drainage pipe is laid in the base of Enkadrain, after which backfilling with local soil is performed. Encadrain with a waterproofing layer can be used as a “lost” (non-removable) formwork, fixed to the sheet pile wall of the excavation. In this case, the waterproofing layer of the mat is in contact with the concrete mixture, preventing the penetration of freshly laid concrete into the drainage layer. By eliminating the need to use temporary external formwork, the volume of earthwork is significantly reduced.
Over the past 20 years, a large experience of using this material has been accumulated in the world. In Russia, Enkadrain is used relatively recently, but it has established itself from the best side and is becoming more and more popular every day. Currently, various types of Enkadrain have been developed taking into account the requirements for their drainage properties in various conditions.
Draining basements
Unfortunately, every year many owners of country houses are faced with such an unpleasant phenomenon as water in the basement. If the basement is flooded, it is always a disaster, but is it spontaneous or is it connected with the mistake of the designers and workers who built the building? Let's try to answer the age-old Russian question: Who is to blame?
In most cases, flooding is associated with so-called groundwater. They are divided into three main categories: soil water, vermicompost and groundwater.
The soils contain firmly and loosely bound capillary, as well as gravitational water, moving under the influence of gravity. Gravity water in the soil does not form an aquifer and cannot move horizontally. It is temporary and permanent. The first is formed in soils due to atmospheric precipitation, melted snow and irrigation water with a relatively deep bedding of groundwater. Permanent water is widespread in swampy and silty soils with a close occurrence of groundwater from the surface of the earth.
Man plays an important role in increasing the amount of soil water, creating waterproof or semi-permeable surfaces of roofs of buildings, platforms, paved paths. 90-95% of the precipitation flows from these surfaces, therefore, in order to avoid waterlogging of the soil of the site, a carefully thought-out vertical layout of the surface and a well-executed drainage system are needed.
Verkhovodka is formed on lenses and waterproof layers located close to the surface during the penetration of atmospheric precipitation, surface water and vapor condensation into the soil and ground. Its appearance is largely due to the terrain, saucer-shaped depressions, pits, pits, filled with construction soil. The Verkhovodka has a limited area of \u200b\u200bdistribution and is temporary in nature, disappearing during dry periods and reappearing during a significant amount of precipitation. Its layer thickness is usually 0.4 m, and sometimes it reaches 2.5 m. As a rule, it is found in sandy loamy soils.
In the suburbs of Moscow, upstream water is one of the main reasons for the seasonal rise in groundwater levels, flooding of foundations and flooding of building basements.
Groundwater is almost ubiquitous in nature. In most cases, they are free-flowing in nature and are directly related to atmospheric pressure. Under the influence of gravity, these waters are constantly moving from higher areas to gentle ones. When aquifers are crossed by ravines, river and stream valleys, gullies, groundwater comes to the surface in the form of springs. The main water parameters (depth of the level, temperature, content of dissolved salts and discharge) are subject to systematic fluctuations, daily, monthly, as well as within one or several years.
In order to prevent flooding of a building, during construction, first of all, it is necessary to determine its location, and then the structure. That is, you should decide whether the house will have a basement, how it will become (shallow or deep). If the foundations and basement of an already erected building are constantly heated, it is very important to identify the cause of this phenomenon as accurately as possible in order to take effective measures. Special hydrogeological surveys will help to understand what happened.
After conducting surveys (not only hydrogeological ones), designers and builders are taken to work. To protect the walls from capillary moisture, horizontal and vertical waterproofing is arranged. The subject of our consideration is the latter, which ensures sufficient dryness of the basement. The type of vertical insulation depends on the moisture content of the soil.
In dry soils, the outer surfaces of the basement walls are recommended to be leveled with cement mortar and covered twice with hot bitumen. Thus, it will be possible to protect the building under construction from the penetration of soil moisture. In an already built house, such a measure will also be effective, but the costs will increase, since it will be necessary to provide access to the surface of the outer walls.
Precautions
Dry soils (light sandy and sandy loam) should not become too waterlogged, otherwise not only vertical, but also horizontal movement of moisture is inevitable. In the spring, streams of water flow down from the roof, therefore, in order to avoid moistening the soil around the house, it is necessary to make a blind area and drainage (both from the roof and from the building itself). With the help of such measures, it will be possible to protect buildings from soil moisture.
Usually moist soils have a heavy texture, they are represented by loams and clays, which have a high moisture capacity and are very reluctant to part with their moisture. In this case, it is recommended to plaster the outer surfaces of the basement walls with a cement-lime mortar, and after drying, cover it twice with hot bitumen or glue it over with a roll carpet made of waterproofing materials. In very wet soils, ceresite, sealing mortars and concrete are added to the cement mortar, or special cements such as Hydro-C, Hydro-VS or similar are used. There are many waterproofing materials on the market today that are used to treat the surface of plaster to enhance waterproofing.
For the same purpose, gluing materials are used, made on the basis of polymerized bitumen, glued in a hot way. Their service life is 25 -35 years. The most widely used pasting materials are glass-insulated cold-glued. More reliable are glass-elastic and rubitex based on polymerized bitumen. They are hot glued and have a service life of 20-25 and 25-35 years, respectively. There are also new dry waterproofing mixtures for external and internal work. Including aquatron-6 with deep penetrating action. This mixture sets quickly and has (according to distributors) a service life of up to 100 years. To seal individual holes and cracks, use Aquatron-8, which sets within five seconds.
It is worth paying attention to the complex of waterproofing materials compatible with each other of the Italian company Index. For example, Osmoseal is designed for waterproofing basements and protecting walls from moisture. It is a dry mixture mixed with water. After application to the surface of concrete, plaster, etc. the composition is absorbed and forms insoluble crystals that clog the capillaries of building structures. To level the waterproofing surface, use repair mortars Resisto Tixo And Resisto Tixo Rapid 15, moisture-proof, non-shrinking cement-based mixtures, reinforced with synthetic fibers. Without formwork, a layer up to 40 mm thick is applied.
The water level can rise above the basement floor if flooding is caused by upper water or groundwater. To combat this phenomenon, drainage is arranged, which, when building a house, is not only advisable, but also quite economical. Drainage is also effective when the house has already been built (although then it will be more expensive).
In cottage construction, as a rule, horizontal tubular drainage of a perfect type is used, completely cutting through the aquifer and reaching the aquiclude, as well as an imperfect type, cutting through this horizon only partially.
In shape, drainage can be cut-off (intercepts the flow of groundwater from the upper side of the building and from the sides), as well as circular (borders the building on all sides). The latter option is preferable because it is more reliable.
According to the types of materials used, drainage is divided into plastic (HDPE, LDPE, PVC, etc.), made of ready-made corrugated and perforated drains with a geotextile filter (filling depth no more than 2-2.5 m), from thick-walled plastic pipes subjected to perforation and wrapped in a filter (laying depth 4 m or more), pottery, made of porous concrete, asbestos-cement pipes, etc.
By the nature of the location, there are two main types of drainage, wall and formation. The first is used if the waterproofing layer is shallow and the base is layered. The drainage is located on the outside of the foundation and deepens below its sole. The depth of the wall drainage in relation to the basement floor is 0.5-1 m. The bed drainage is designed for poorly permeable soils (clay and loamy), where linear drainage does not always give a positive result. The connection of the underground reservoir drainage with the wall drainage in buildings with strip foundations is carried out using connecting pipes, and with separate foundations through drainage layers.
The listed types of drainage are often used to pump moisture from drainage wells with pumps if the terrain does not allow water to be discharged by gravity into a ravine, river valley or stream.
It must be remembered that drainage, as a rule, does not protect the underground parts of the building from dampness and humidification by capillary moisture. Therefore, it is advisable to use it in combination with wall waterproofing. In the construction of residential buildings, various types of waterproofing are widespread: rigid (cement-sand and metal), paint, asphalt, rubber (plastic), pasting, combined, impregnating and injection.
Rigid insulation includes dense, water-resistant concrete; waterproofing cement-sand plasters, performed manually or using compressed air (shotcrete); metal insulation.
The coating waterproofing is applied to the surface, painted with a primer, in two steps when leveling with a cement mortar (cold primer on a slow-volatile solvent) and before the actual coating (cold primer on a fast-volatile solvent). Is the insulation applied in at least two layers (each 1.5-2 mm thick) by mechanical spraying or by hand? brushes. For coating, hot mastics are used, prepared from bitumen and filler, or pure bitumen. The softening point of the binder should be 20-25C higher than the maximum possible temperature of the insulated surface or environment, but not lower than 40C.
The glued waterproofing is performed on a leveled, clean and dry base. The cement base is coated with a cold primer. The evenness of the base before coating with a primer is checked with a three-meter rail; only insignificant gaps of up to 5 mm are allowed, but not more than one per running meter. Small depressions (up to 10 mm) are leveled by gluing roll waterproofing material onto hot mastic. Moreover, each previous panel overlaps by at least 100 mm in longitudinal joints and 150 mm in transverse ones. The joints are staggered. On vertical, inclined and vaulted surfaces, roll materials are glued from bottom to top.
On a note
The waterproofing should be even, without dents or air pockets. Non-glued places are detected by tapping; they are cut, dried and glued if necessary. Then patches are made of the same material, overlapping the cuts by at least 100 mm. To protect against external influences, glued waterproofing is often supplemented with a pressure wall made of brick (0.5 bricks) or concrete slabs, the gap between them is poured with a hydrophobic cement mortar.
Is asphalt insulation a plastic coating? asphalt and bitumen-based asphalt concrete. Rubber (plastic insulation) belongs to the same category. It is made of large sheets of special durable rubber, which is attached with a rail to the walls of the foundation from the outside. Composite insulation is a combination of waterproof coating and drainage. With impregnation insulation, concrete and reinforced concrete elements of foundations are impregnated with bitumen. Injection insulation is created by injecting liquid materials into the pores and cracks of soil, concrete or masonry.
In addition, waterproofing is divided into external and internal (along the inner surface of the basement walls). The disadvantage of the latter is the need to withstand the constant pressure of water from the outside, which often leads to flaking of insulation, the formation of voids and water penetration into the basement. To increase the reliability of this type of insulation, an internal pressure wall will help, the operation of which is based on the same principles. True, with internal waterproofing, water permeates the foundation material.
If the basement is flooded with water or groundwater, it is important to determine the water level in relation to the floor surface of the room or the ground. Slight flooding includes cases when the groundwater level has a pressure (elevation above the basement floor level) of about 0.1-0.15 m. Then the floor waterproofing is made of two layers of roll material on a leveled surface.
To protect the vertical walls of the basements, waterproofing is glued to the leveled outer surfaces and secured with a pressure wall. The gap between the insulation and the wall is filled with a liquid cement mortar, preferably based on special hydraulic engineering cements. As the pressure of groundwater increases, the number of layers of roll waterproofing increases. The pressure can be reduced by arranging a drainage system. It should also be taken into account that when insulating adjacent structures, their insulated surfaces must be made in the form of a chamfer at an angle of 45C or rounded off with a radius of at least 10-15 cm.
It should be noted that all the measures described above will be effective only with the diligent work of the builders. Unfortunately, this does not always happen, so the quality must be controlled.
There are other ways to deal with the flooding problem. The easiest way is to abandon the basement altogether. In this case, all basement services are placed not in the house itself, but in detached buildings. Another option is to make a high fill foundation of drainage material (sand), and then the basement will be above the water table. If you arrange a high basement, then the auxiliary services will be located not in the basement, but on the basement floor.
As you can see, flooding can be combated. But this struggle will be the more successful, the more accurately it is possible to determine the cause of the flooding (if the house has already been built, it is also necessary to find out what methods of waterproofing were used). All these issues need to be resolved with the help of a hydrogeologist, architect and civil engineer even before the construction of buildings. And as an objective criterion, all other things being equal, one should take the sum of the so-called reduced costs, which consist of construction costs (capital) and operating costs (current).
So, before starting construction, study the site, primarily its relief, geology and hydrogeology. And only then decide which house to build - with or without a basement. It should be remembered that the characteristics obtained during surveys (especially hydrogeological ones) are constantly changing, which means that one should focus on the worst conditions.
betonrapid is a fast setting cement for emergency repair of leaks even in conditions of constant water inflow. It is used in cases where the lack of adequate waterproofing of the foundation or the existence of hydrostatic pressure of the aquifer leads to the infiltration of groundwater through cracks and cracks. Setting time 30-60 seconds. An hour after blocking the leak, the surface is covered with a waterproofing solution.
RESISTO TIXO is a non-shrinking mortar reinforced with synthetic fibers with improved binding properties. It is used for repairing concrete surfaces damaged due to a violation of waterproofing, as well as for leveling and forming a layer of great thickness on vertical surfaces without the use of formwork.
OSMOSEAL is an osmotic waterproofing cement. Allows you to solve the problem of waterproofing from the inside, without carrying out work to restore the external waterproofing. Interacting with concrete components, it forms solid insoluble crystals, osmotically closing the capillary network of the treated surface. When waterproofing objects subject to vibrations and dynamic loads, OSMOLASTIC elastic waterproofing coating is used.
EXPAN BENTONITICO is a water-expanding bentonite rubber cord. Used to seal structural and? Cold? seams in concrete. On contact with water, the cord expands, creating a self-filling waterproof barrier. Has increased elasticity.
KALMATRON is a protective cementitious composition of penetrating action. Provides waterproofing of concrete, bricks and other capillary-porous materials. As a result of a series of successive reactions, hardly soluble compounds are formed, sealing pores and microcracks to a depth of 150 mm with a continuous front
The editors are grateful to the Zagorodny Dom company, whose materials were used in the publication.
