The layout of old apartments usually did not do without niches. Looking at this, one useful and interesting thought comes to mind - a closet. Such a built-in wardrobe can be made by hand.

Such a space is most often located in the corridor, less often in the bedroom. Do not put any furniture there - neither a sofa, nor an armchair. But the shelves just beg, and still they would be closed with a door, or you can also use a sliding door. So the wardrobe and looms by itself. What is needed for this, and where is it better to start. We'll talk about this.

materials

The set of tools that you will need in the future will depend on the current choice. Drawings for the manufacture of a built-in wardrobe will also depend on the material chosen.

When it comes to materials, the first thing that comes to mind is wood. This is a great material for furniture, but not the best solution for a built-in wardrobe. This is because such a cabinet is mounted to a blank wall, most often. This raises the humidity level inside the cabinet, and when the door is opened, the moisture level inside and outside is mixed. All this negatively affects the wood.

It can be decided by her choice. You need to turn your attention to quality wood, with straight layers in which there will be no cracks and knots.

Still such a tree should be thoroughly impregnated with an emulsion or drying oil. Otherwise, the walls and shelves may swell, which will adversely affect the overall integrity of the structure.

Speaking about the materials for the built-in wardrobe, it is worth remembering the simple fiberboard. The material is familiar, fits perfectly, there are a lot of options for making designs from it. Do not take thin sheets, they quickly degrade.

I have not yet said about lining and plasterboard construction. In the case of the first option, there will still be a need for wood, which again will need to be further processed, otherwise moisture will not allow you to enjoy the cabinet for a long time.

In the second case, forget it. The material is quite heavy, but it does not differ in strength. Structures from it are unreliable, and vertically installed parts soon begin to lose their shape. It can work when decorating the interior, or exterior, of the cabinet, in particular, if there is a fireplace or stove nearby.

I did not mention consumables such as self-tapping screws, dowels, guides and the like. Here everything will depend more on your preferences when planning the cabinet.

Separately, I would like to say that you should not save much, especially on the back wall. If you are making a closet in place of a niche, then you can get by with the wall as the back of the closet.

If you plan to store things in it, it is better to take a few more sheets of base material and cover the back with them. At least in aesthetic terms, this will be a huge plus. In addition, after assembling the cabinet, you are unlikely to redo something in it in the coming years. Save wisely.

Blueprints

In order to more clearly and clearly understand how to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, you need to take care of the drawings. You can make them yourself, or you can search the Internet for ready-made options. The second way is more interesting because you can find a very similar version of how you want to see your closet, and then simply adjust it to fit your needs and capabilities.

In this regard, you can make the internal structure easier by removing some fittings, or you can change it. In general, everything will be based on the overall dimensions of the connector that is available to you for the cabinet.

During the calculations, take into account a small error that may occur during the installation stage. Leave room for guides under the doors if you decide to use the wardrobe option.

If you have problems with drawings and calculations, it’s better to use ready-made ones, or find a master who can do these for you. Having them at your disposal, the preparation and assembly processes will become much easier and more enjoyable. Instructions with a description for built-in wardrobes can be ordered at any workshop that works with furniture.

If you have not previously worked with the assembly of furniture, it is better not to rush with the facade, and in particular with complex structures for it. In this process, there are a lot of features on which you can easily miss the calculations. If the drawing is already there, then it is better to call the master who will help you install the front.

Installation

By this time, you should have all the components of the future cabinet ready. Depending on the size of the cabinet and the complexity of its internal design, there can be a lot of details. Check if everything is in place, and once again check the dimensions of the same parts.

Installing built-in wardrobes is not a very fast business, and therefore you should not rush. The peculiarity lies in the fact that in fact such a cabinet will not have its own frame. The main parts will be built into a niche, for example, after which the rest of the parts will be mounted on their basis.

The first is to install a false panel, after which attach the guides for the doors. After that, you can begin the installation of the inside of the cabinet. Since the walls, floor and top of the cabinet are already there, installation of the structure should not cause problems.

The final stage of the installation will be the doors. By installing them on the rails, you can disinfect the cabinet and clean it of debris. This completes the installation. Next, you need to add accessories, if any, and you can start using the cabinet.

Photo of built-in wardrobes with your own hands

There is not always enough money to buy a closet, which is necessary in every apartment. Another problem that people face is the lack of free space. You can solve problems by making a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. This option of space zoning is used in houses and apartments where there is free space along the wall, in a corner or a niche.

Built-in wardrobes have sliding doors, which significantly saves space in the apartment. In addition, such a piece of furniture fits perfectly into any interior, making the room more cozy and comfortable. Sliding wardrobes perfectly hide flaws, integrates with other shelves, lockers, hangers.

For the proper organization and layout of the built-in wardrobe, you need to understand the dimensions, configurations, fittings, drawings.

Built-in wardrobes are divided into several types:

• They are made in the dead end of the corridor, hallway or any room of the apartment.
• They are built into the corners, combining a wardrobe with a dressing room.
• Created in a niche, one of the most popular options for built-in wardrobes.
• They are arranged along the entire wall, the so-called straight option. Looks great in a narrow and wide passerby, corridor and room. The straight design should have sliding doors so as not to interfere with the movement of the occupants.
• They are made in the form of a walkway between the bathrooms and bedrooms, two adjacent rooms. It looks good in apartments in which there is a small corridor in front of the room. Its functional purpose is minimal, so you can combine the closet with the bedroom, separating them with sliding doors. The bedroom will have its own dressing room, where you can move things, a table and put a large mirror there.

The basic forms for a built-in wardrobe in a wall or niche are the corner or straight version of this piece of furniture. When installing a wardrobe in a niche or wall, you need to take into account the important features of assembly and installation:

• The distance between the side walls, which are needed for the installation of doors. In particular, the rear wall may have bumps, chamfered corners, create them, which will create problems with the installation of the roller system.
• Ceiling height.
• A cabinet in a niche may not have side walls, and a built-in cabinet along the wall excludes the presence of a rear wall and one of the side partitions. This is a great way to save material.

Size calculation

To properly install the cabinet along the wall or place it in a niche, you need to correctly measure all the necessary parameters - width, height, depth of the compartment, shelves, cabinets, drawers. First of all, installing a built-in wardrobe requires determining the correct height. Usually this type of furniture is installed directly under the ceiling. So you can avoid the occurrence of dust, cobwebs and dirt, which must be constantly fought. it is necessary to measure at several points, since the ceiling has a curvature with an error of several millimeters.

A cabinet in the entire wall or in a niche can have different depths:

• If there are only one shelves, you should not make a very deep compartment. The depth can be 30 centimeters, but no more.
• If you plan to install hangers that will stand perpendicular to the doors, then this parameter should not exceed 60 centimeters.
• In one case or another, it is necessary to add another 10 centimeters, allotted for the width of the doors.

The following factors influence the width calculation:

• Edge thickness.
• Installation of internal hinges.
• Guide width.
• Potholes, bumps and sockets in the wall.

Installation of a built-in wardrobe in a niche requires adding or subtracting 5 centimeters from the width, which will allow you to accurately insert the compartment into the recess in the wall.

Making a drawing

To make a built-in wardrobe, you need to draw up a diagram and drawing. First you need to plan the interior space - shelves, hangers, bedside tables. If the shelves are made of chipboard, then their thickness will not exceed 16 mm (standard chipboard thickness).

The interior space in the drawing must be divided into two parts. Shelves and drawers will be located in one compartment, and in the second you can put bedside tables and place a bar for hangers.

The drawing should also take into account how often certain things will be used. On the lower tiers, it is necessary to install shelves and drawers in which clothes, accessories, shoes will be located, which residents constantly take out of the closet.

Dimensional drawing example

The width of the area allotted for the bar and hangers should be 1 meter. The bar is mounted on top, and boxes are placed below, which should have a height of up to 50 centimeters. If shelves are made, then a distance of 30 cm must be made between them.

Schemes of a cabinet built into a niche or equipped along a wall should also take into account the sliding door system. The drawing must correctly reflect the proportions of the ratio of height and width. It is easy to calculate the required parameters. One part of the width corresponds to four parts of the width of one sliding door leaf.

The width and thickness of the doors must have enough space for the installation of rollers, which require no more than 10 cm of space for installation. Doors are made of chipboard, the thickness of one sheet should be 1.6 centimeters.

Thus, all measurements taken earlier must be applied to the drawing, which will allow you to correctly and without problems assemble the structure, put it in place. It is worth spending a little time on drawing up a drawing, so that later, according to the project, you can carry out a phased assembly of the product with your own hands at home.

Applicable materials

An important preparatory moment before is the choice of material from which the built-in wardrobe will consist. It is best to use natural wood, which is durable in operation. But the price of wooden boards is high, which makes it difficult for every person who wants to assemble a wardrobe on their own to use them. In addition, one must also take into account the fact that in niches and near the wall there is always the highest level of humidity, due to which the surface of the wood can swell and begin to rot.

The following types of materials are excellent substitutes for natural solid wood:

• Plywood.

Plywood is made from veneer, sheets are then glued together under pressure. The number of layers in plywood can be different, but it must be a multiple. This material is quite durable, but also exposed to moisture. The cost of plywood is lower than that of wood, which is why it is used for the manufacture of cabinet furniture at home. Before assembling a wardrobe from plywood, the sheets must be treated with drying oil.

A full-wall sliding wardrobe can be made from chipboard panels, which are made from pressed wood shavings with impurities of various resins. They contain various chemical compounds, so chipboard sheets should only be purchased from certified stores. But it should be borne in mind that chipboard does not hold the shape of the structure and fasteners well.

For several years, chipboard has been competing with the finely dispersed fraction (MDF), which is durable and is created in accordance with modern requirements for the manufacture of MDF. Sheets are made from wood dust, squeezed under a very high temperature. As a result, the material releases lignin material, which binds wood particles together. MDF perfectly holds both fasteners and accessories.

Fittings and tools

It is impossible to assemble a wardrobe at home without the necessary tools and accessories. The following parts must be purchased from a specialist shop:

• Two sets of monorail rails to be installed on top and bottom of the cabinet. Sliding doors will move along them.
• A set of rollers capable of holding doors.
• Stoppers.
• Door hinges.
• Pins for mounting.
• Screws, including short ones, the length of which should not exceed 1.6 cm.
• Terminals and adhesive tape (preferably double-sided).
• Brackets and caps for screws that have a hexagonal female thread.
• , which is used as protection against dust.
• Dowel.
• Edges.

You will also need shelves, doors, drawers and cabinets, which can be plastic, furniture panels and baskets.

To make a cabinet, you will need an electric drill, which is needed in order to make holes in the wall and MDF chipboard sheets. It will need drills of various diameters and functional purposes, since you need to drill ends, shelves, doors. You also need a reverse screwdriver with different nozzles, a screwdriver, an awl, a tape measure, a square, a vacuum cleaner, a hammer, pliers, a stationery knife, adhesive tape, a special building hair dryer, a vacuum cleaner (to remove dust).

Cabinet installation at home

One person will not be able to assemble the closet himself and build it into a niche or place it along the wall. You will need the help of another person who will supply small parts, cut off adhesive tape, change tools.

A sliding wardrobe in the entire wall or in a niche should be mounted in stages:

• First, assemble the main structure by drilling holes in the top panels, side and base. After that, the cabinet is assembled piece by piece.
• Secondly, reinforce the side walls with metal or plastic furniture corners.
• Thirdly, make recesses for the pins to be inserted and secured. Shelves are attached to the top.
• Fourth, assemble the sliding system. First you need to fix the guide rails. After that, it is necessary to fix the rollers, which are inserted into the upper guide, and then onto the lower one, for which you need to raise the door. And only then are the far and near sashes hung in turn.

The problem of lack of free space is familiar to everyone. A lot of things, all of which are important and necessary, from the point of view of the owners, are usually located in closets that take up a lot of space in small apartments.
Where to find a way out of this situation? The solution is simple - install a sliding wardrobe, and the look of your home will change completely. How to make, build and assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands? Do you want a built-in dressing room, hallway or bedroom? This article will help you make it yourself.

The problem of lack of free space is familiar to everyone. Where to find a way out of this situation? The solution is simple - install a sliding wardrobe, and the look of your home will change completely.

What are the good built-in wardrobes (in the hallway or bedroom)?

• most often installed in the niche of the room, thus saving precious centimeters of living space (this is very important, especially if the apartment is small);
• due to its design, accommodates a large number of things. It is much more spacious than the usual bulky cabinets;
• The main component of such a cabinet is sliding doors. Thanks to them, the wardrobe can stand very close to the sofa and at the same time there will never be discomfort when opening and closing the doors;
• has a great look. Depending on personal preferences, this type of furniture can be made truly unique: it is decorated with mirrors, drawings, etc.;
• often performs by zoning the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room;
• between it and the wall there is no empty space, usually an additional dust collector;
• safes, sockets and switches are often placed inside it, without spoiling the appearance of the walls of the apartment.

When deciding to have such a miracle at home, it is better to make a closet yourself, because not everyone will be able to afford its cost in the store (from 13,000 to 300,000 rubles).

What type of closet is better to choose?

Depending on the presence or absence of cabinet walls, this type of furniture has several types. The complete absence of side walls, top and bottom. They are completely replaced by the walls, floor and ceiling of the room (read how to properly plaster the ceiling). Shelves in such a cabinet are attached directly to the walls.

Consider features of this model:

• the cost of manufacturing such furniture is minimal, because you only need to purchase chipboard for shelves;
• have a large internal volume.

Among the shortcomings, it should be noted only that such a built-in wardrobe model is considered absolutely non-transportable. It will not be possible to transport her to any other apartment.

• Partial or complete presence of walls. The total cost of such a cabinet will be slightly higher than that of the previously reviewed models. However, they have one significant advantage - the possibility of transportation and installation in another place (sometimes used as ordinary cabinets).

All types of built-in wardrobes can have doors or be without them. It depends on the personal preferences of each individual person.

Secrets of Choosing the Right Height and Width

Built-in wardrobe width depends on the size of the niche in which it will be located. When determining how many doors are required (their maximum width is 90 cm), special attention should be paid to the guides along which the wheels will move. Their size does not exceed 4 m or 5 m (depending on the manufacturer).

If the width of the recess in the wall is greater, then a chipboard partition will have to be installed between the guides. This should be done because the metal joints will quickly render the state of the door wheels unusable.

Visually, it will never be noticeable that the cabinet consists of several parts. Everyone will close the sliding doors.

The smallest width of such furniture should not be less than 100 cm. This is explained by the fact that too narrow doors do not have good stability. If you still cannot do without the small size of the wardrobe, you need to think about replacing the wheels in the guides with swing mechanisms.

The height of the built-in wardrobe depends on whether there is a stretch ceiling in the room or not. Depending on this condition, this type of furniture has some varieties.

Height depends on the height of the niche:

• if it is small (up to 200 cm), then the furniture cannot be made differently;
• in the case when the height of the room is within 280 cm, then the cabinet is made up to the ceiling, because the traditional size of chipboard sheets is 278 cm;
• if you need to make the cabinet high, then a mezzanine is placed on its upper part or the side walls of the entire structure are lengthened. The mezzanine has its own doors with individual guides.
• The maximum height must not exceed 4 m.

In addition, the height of the built-in wardrobe depends on whether or not there is a stretch ceiling in the room (read how to wash a stretch ceiling without streaks). Depending on this condition, this type of furniture has some varieties:

• if the cabinet has a top wooden cover not screwed to the ceiling and the distance between them is within a few centimeters, the product is made to the ceiling;
• in some cases, the furniture top rail can be mounted directly to the ceiling. This can be done if, before installing the stretch ceiling on a concrete base, fasten a wooden beam. The cabinet guide is already screwed directly to it with self-tapping screws. In this case, there will not be the slightest gap between the furniture and the ceiling;
• the furniture does not reach the ceiling, but the intermediate distance is closed with a decorative wooden or plastic plank;
• built-in wardrobe below the ceiling by 50 cm or more. In this case, the gap is not closed by a mezzanine.

Step-by-step guide: making a built-in wardrobe

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to take care of the state of the niche in which the future structure will be located. To do this, it is cleaned of old finishing materials and the surface is well leveled (find out about it).

If the wardrobe does not have walls at all, then the surface of the recess in the wall can be painted in any color or pasted over with new wallpaper.

In the event that the furniture is mounted with side, top, bottom and rear walls, the niche must be absolutely flat. You can check this with plumb lines and levels. It is also necessary to measure the diagonals of the recess: from the upper right corner to the lower left and vice versa.

They must be exactly the same. Cement mortar or plaster will help to correct all errors. This is done in order to avoid distortions of the closet.

After completion of all preparatory work, it is necessary to perform drawing of the future cabinet. In this case, be sure to take into account the number, size and location of the shelves. Only in this case it will be possible to make it really convenient for all family members.

Having determined the width of the built-in wardrobe, it is necessary to mark the places for fixing the guides along which the sliding doors will move.

Then materials are selected. It is necessary to consider what the doors will be made of. If they are of poor quality, there is a possibility that it will be difficult to open them. Preference should be given to laminated chipboard with a thickness of 0.8 cm or more.

Its average cost is 190 rubles. for 1 m2. When calculating the width of the required web, remember that one part must overlap the other by at least 50 mm.

You can also use glass doors, but their cost starts from 20,000 rubles. They are really strong because they are made of very strong, thick glass.

It is possible to prevent cracking of such a material by coating it with a special reinforcing film. It will not be possible to install rollers on this type of sliding doors without the help of a professional.

The assembly process can only be started when all visible parts of the chipboard have a beautiful edge.

Required Tools for assembly:

• drill;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• building corner;
• hex key;
• pencil.

Preparing the walls

Assemble the entire structure. If there are shelves, make sure that they do not extend beyond the cabinet.

• using a tape measure and a pencil, make a markup on which the cabinet will be assembled;
• put marks for shelves;
• on all planes, make holes through with a drill of 8 mm, at the ends - with a drill of 5 mm (depth should not exceed 0.6 cm);
• collect the whole structure. If there are shelves, make sure that they do not extend beyond the cabinet (this will interfere with the doors);
• insert stoppers for canvases into the lower guide;
• screw the upper and lower guides to the niche with self-tapping screws (parallel to each other);
• for the stability of the canvases, screw at least two rollers on top and bottom;
• insert the doors into the guides.

If there is no wardrobe in addition, it is inserted into the recess in the wall and leveled using a level. You can fasten the furniture to the walls using dowels and screws.

Installation of built-in wardrobe

For reliability, the structure is attached to the niche with dowels and screws.

• make markings on the wall (position of shelves);
• fasten metal corners with screws to the walls (this is the base for the shelves);
• fix the shelves on the corners;
• connect the lower, upper and side parts to each other;
• for reliability, the structure is attached to the niche with dowels and screws;
• install guides to the lid and bottom of the cabinet;
• fasten the rollers on the doors and insert them into the guides.

Sometimes after door installation, a small gap is formed between her and the wall. A hexagon will help fix this. They need to tighten the bolt that fixes the lower rollers.

How to understand if the wardrobe is assembled correctly?

The following indicators will help determine this:

• Complete absence of gaps between the doors and the wall.
• Door leaves move freely along the guides.
• All drawers (if any) open freely.
• The fabrics have an overlap.
• The gap between the bar for hanging things on it (if any) and the back wall of the cabinet (or niche) must be at least 23 cm.

Having made a drawing and diagram of the cabinet, ordering materials, you can, of course, entrust the assembly work to a professional. However, keep in mind that the cost of his services will cost about 3500-9000 rubles.

That is why, having invited an assistant home, the entire structure, the frame for the built-in wardrobe, you can mount it yourself. The main thing at the same time, already at the initial stages, is to withstand all the verticals and horizontals, which will ensure the correct position of the entire built-in wardrobe and the excellent operation of its doors.

Video instruction

This time I will talk about the process of closing a room niche with a pair of solid compartment doors. The main problem of this project was the unevenness of one wall - the vertical difference was as much as six cm. The wall itself was leveled, but littered outwards. That is why an additional element had to be introduced into the design. The left wall of the niche, by the way, turned out to be “on top” - there were no complaints about it.

As a coupe system, I settled on the traditional Gratis system for me. The choice fell on her, firstly, because of the price, and, secondly, because of the width of the vertical profiles. The niche is quite large and narrow profiles would simply not look in it, and, thirdly, it was on sale))).

I will not overload the article with the calculation of the system, for this there is a file from the official website of the company.

See here:

We order cutting parts, as well as purchase a set for doors. So, we should have 2 pieces of chipboard 10 mm thick, sawn "to size" on our hands.

As well as a set of compartments - profiles, rollers, brush-schlegel and spring stoppers. The company delivers in this packaged form. It's nice though. Most stores sell the profile by the footage without any packaging.

The cut profile itself looks like this. It has a C-shape. We will mount it with a bulge on the front side.

Admire? Now we go directly to work. Based on the calculations done earlier (see the file with formulas), we cut the profile handles. It is advisable to do this with a miter saw, although with the help of a simple hacksaw you can achieve good results - the main thing is not to rush.

In order for all the handles to be the same size, it is advisable to screw the limiter to the workbench - this will allow you to mark only the first one, we saw the rest in the same way, resting the far end at close range.

Feed the trimming disc slowly and carefully - so the cut will be cleaner.

With the handles finished, it remains to cut the horizontal elements: the upper and lower tracks and the horizons of the doors themselves.

The dimensions of the horizons are also taken from the calculations and cut from the stop.

You get exactly the same details. Fast and simple. Still, trimming helps a lot in this matter - even the simplest one.

Let's move on to marking the holes in the profile handles. From above, we need to step back from the edge of 8 mm, and from below 8 and 43 mm. To simplify the markup, I use such a jig - a simple plate with holes drilled on it.

Now we need to drill these holes. It is very convenient to use a drilling machine or a stand for a drill, but you can do without additional stray. First, drill through with a 5.5 mm drill

Then, for the thickness of one (outer plate), we drill holes for the screw heads with a 9.5 mm drill.

It should look like this from the bottom (the top is about the same, but without one hole). In order to avoid unnecessary jambs, I would advise you to fold the handles in pairs before marking, as they will stand on the doors.

Let's move on to assembly. We take the chipboard panel, put it on the edge and pull the upper horizon from the corner. An equal distance of approximately 5 mm should remain from the edges.

1. Since the canvas enters the groove very tightly, we help it with not strong blows of a rubber mallet.
2. We repeat the same with the lower horizon.
3. The mallet should be tapped even more carefully, as long overhangs can be deformed.
4. Holding the canvas, we take the profile-handle and lay it on the edge.
5. Align its position to the lower edge of the lower horizon (the upper one is not visible, there may be a slight offset - this is not critical).

Let's move on to fixing the handle profile. The screws that are always packed with the wheels will help us in this process. The screws should be turned with long imbus keys.

Roughly aligning the profile cutout with the chipboard insert, we twist the first self-tapping screw with the groove of the lower horizon. The screw, tightening, gently tightens the corner of the insert into the groove.

Photo see below

Then, starting from this place, directing the insert into the groove with one hand, we tap on the profile with a mallet in the direction of the free end. You will have to knock harder, so it is advisable to do this through a flat area - in order to avoid dents on the profile. For a more dense nailing of the chipboard into the profile, it is better to walk several times.

Then tighten the top screw.

1. But it should not be wrapped all the way to the end. Not reaching 3-4 mm but the end, we stop.
2. We insert the “flyer” of the upper roller under its hat and tighten the self-tapping screw to the end.

• We return to the lower edge of the door, capturing the lower roller and the screw securing it along the way. The roller starts up in the groove of the lower horizon.
• It must be pressed against the profile handle and wound in depth to the end, that is, the spring pushing it outward must be clamped.
• We throw a screw through the bottom hole, get into the threaded hole in the roller and bait it. You don't need to turn it all the way around.
• Then carefully turn the door with the fixed profile down. It should be placed on a soft substrate (cardboard or fiberboard) so as not to scratch the coating.

All manipulations to fix the second handle and rollers are repeated. The second door is assembled in the same way. They are folded together and wrapped in stretch film for shipping.

Spring stoppers are wound into the grooves of the lower tracks. Holes for fixing screws are drilled and countersinked in the tracks themselves.

We proceed to the second stage of assembly - the creation of a structure that compensates for the unevenness of the wall. Since the installation of sliding doors without installing the filling of the room meant maximum budget, I decided to put the entire cutting into one sheet for the manufacture of this design. For this reason, one part turned out to be composite. In order to connect it together, as well as attach it to the side posts, I decided to attach several plates from the inside of 16 mm scraps of the same width from the inside.

Photo

We align the parts relative to each other, in order to avoid displacement, we rest them on the “matrix” from an even cut. We fix all this to the workbench with clamps.

We place a 16 mm overlay on top, also align it, clamp it with a clamp and fix it with several self-tapping screws.

We fix the same overlay a little higher (to fix the side walls - it is not very convenient to screw self-tapping screws into the edge of 10 mm chipboard.

Now, with the help of the Cheron jig for drilling into the end, we seat confirmed screeds both in the end and in the face of the workpieces. Stops help a lot.

We wrap the euro screws in the holes obtained, assembling the U-shaped box.

At this preparatory stage is completed and the entire structure is transported to the site. The photo shows the niche itself, which is to be closed.

We put the compensating box in place, align it in level and cut the ceiling plinth on both sides with a sharp knife.

Then, with the same knife, carefully separate it from the wall and ceiling. It turns out a niche just the size of the box.

Once again, attach the box to the wall. This time the plinth does not interfere with us. Level it up again. A laser level is very convenient for this.

We climb onto a stool and begin to transfer the wall profile to the workpiece. A pencil and a wide washer will help us with this.

The following photo shows the marking process in a larger scale. The washer rolls along the wall, repeating all its irregularities, a pencil is inserted into its hole, which transfers these irregularities to the workpiece with an indentation in the width of the washer.

We proceed to the removal of excess material. Considering that the gap is very large, I had to do several approaches. At first, it was sawn with an electric jigsaw very roughly with a file with a large tooth.

The box is once again applied to the wall. It can be seen that the gap has become smaller, but still remains.

The cut line is immediately visible - it is clearly visible that fine-tuning is required.

The second run was also a jigsaw, but with a metal file.

The final adjustment is carried out with a narrow washer. You can simply draw a pencil along the wall - you get a minimum indent.

• The final removal of the material is no longer carried out with a jigsaw, which leaves chips, but with a belt grinder. We grind the excess to the marking line.
• Put the box back in place. There is practically no gap. Skolov too.
• We apply the door, look at the gaps and distortions. We do not find.

The box is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws. Right through its sidewall, first with a drill, and then into the resulting hole with a puncher, we drill the wall.

We hammer dowel plugs into the holes.

Then we put the box back, once again check the correspondence of the vertical and tighten the screws. Hats are closed with caps.

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How to make a closet in a niche with your own hands in 5 steps and without helpers

Looking at the built-in furniture, it seems to most owners that self-assembly of such beauty is impossible. However, when the home master receives sensible instructions, he changes his mind. Let's take a step-by-step look at how to make a cabinet in a niche with our own hands, and in order to quickly understand the technology, we will break the whole process into 5 steps.

Planning as the key to success

The beauty of built-in furniture is that it doesn’t matter what kind of structure you are going to mount here. Will the cabinet occupy a niche completely, partially, or a corner layout is planned, in any case, the sequence of actions is similar.

• Material selection- This is the first thing you need to decide. If the floor is concrete, then there is not much difference, you can take what you like, and for wooden floors you need to choose light panels. Plus, recently such a characteristic as environmental cleanliness has come to the fore;
• Niche preparation- not for every owner this item is relevant, but still you need to know some subtleties;
• Cabinet layout- there are enough beautiful schemes with sizes on the network, but you need to rely on the practical benefits and expediency of arranging a particular section;

• doors- as practice shows, sliding doors in wardrobes are the most important node, moreover, they take at least half of the budget;
• Cutting material and installation- if all the previous points were completed with high quality, then it will take a maximum of 2 - 3 days to assemble the cabinet.

From a practical point of view, embedding furniture in a niche is the easiest, because you already have a ready-made box, all that remains is to fill it in and mount the facade.

Step number 1: the subtleties of choosing a material

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Tree. Natural wood for a built-in wardrobe is not suitable. Different humidity inside and outside will lead to the fact that the board will begin to crack, in addition, the structure turns out to be massive and heavy. The assembly of such furniture is available only to professionals and the price is fantastic. But the supporting frame is best assembled from wooden bars. It is easier to work with them than with a metal profile.
	Drywall. In a niche, it is real to assemble drywall shelves. But the gypsum boards themselves are fragile, plus they still need to be puttied and painted. I'm not talking about how much time and effort it will take to assemble and sheath the frame. Drywall is good for partitions and small shelves; this material is not suitable for a serious closet.
	chipboard. Laminated chipboard for the manufacture of budget furniture has been used for a long time. But about 10 - 15 years ago, information appeared that formaldehyde was used in the production of chipboard, which means that furniture is harmful. True, manufacturers claim that the laminated finish blocks formaldehyde fumes, and judging by the fact that furniture continues to be produced, this is true.
	Fiberboard, MDF and HDF. These are all fibreboard, only fiberboard comes in low solid density, MDF in medium density and HDF in high density. In the same sequence are the prices for these plates. Since the cabinet is built-in, the density does not play a big role for us, the main thing is that the plate thickness is at least 16 mm. In general, this direction is considered the best for a sliding wardrobe.
	Plywood. It is excellent for making furniture, it is strong, reliable and durable, but thick laminated plywood is an order of magnitude more expensive than the same MDF or chipboard, so it is rarely taken.
	Furniture board. This is natural wood. Shields are glued together from strips of inexpensive wood species, after which they are faced with veneer or thin plywood. The material suits us, the boards are cheaper than solid wood, but more expensive than MDF
	Tempered glass. At the moment, the most popular material for arranging facades. The only disadvantage of tempered glass is its high price. Keep in mind that it is undesirable to take ordinary glass from the nearest glass cutter, firstly, it can crack from vibration, and secondly, if such glass breaks, it can seriously injure you.

Step #2: Prepare a Niche

If the niche is covered with wallpaper, and they hold tight, then you can leave everything as it is and work on. It is advisable to remove the old wallpaper, spray the wall with water and scrape the wallpaper with a spatula, for wallpaper that is too tight there are washes.

1. Paste over the niche with new wallpaper. It is best to take non-woven or fiberglass wallpaper for painting, they are durable and will stand in the closet for an arbitrarily long time. This method is good if you have trimmed such wallpaper from the last repair, it is not profitable to buy a single large roll;
2. If you don’t feel like messing with wallpaper, then cover a clean wall with PVA glue diluted with water, and when the primer dries, paint with acrylic enamel. Instead of acrylic, you can take something cheaper, for example, oil paint, but it will stink and dry for a long time.

Step #3: layout, diagrams and dimensions

In a competent layout, there are simple laws, based on which you can easily distribute sections and zones in your closet:

• Small and frequently used items are placed at eye level, that is, underwear, shirts, blouses, socks, stockings, etc.;
• Valuable small things and things that require careful storage are distributed in drawers;
• Bed linen is sent to the upper shelves or to a separate section, but in no case to the lower one;
• Sections of outerwear and shirts with suits are placed separately;
• The bottom is reserved for shoes and household items, such as a vacuum cleaner, ironing board, etc.

To determine the dimensions of the sections, there are also laws:

• The height of open shelves for things starts from 300 mm, it is desirable to make a width of at least 500 mm;
• According to furniture standards, the height of the outerwear section is 1600 mm, but this is not a dogma, you can do less;
• The minimum height of the drawers is 100 mm, the width is the same as that of the shelves.

Step number 4: front door block

Here we need to decide on the width of the leaves on the doors and the type of sliding mechanism.

Sash calculation

The recommended maximum for the width of the door leaf is 700 mm, it is not desirable to do more, less is possible. The thing is that the larger the area of ​​​​the sash, the heavier it is, respectively, the higher the load on the support rail. Plus, wide sashes cover a serious area and it is inconvenient to use the closet.

We have at least 2 sashes, each one follows its own guides, but it is impossible to make them clearly end-to-end according to the size of the opening, the normal overlap is 30–50 mm. Here it is also necessary to take into account that the leaf consists of a door leaf and metal profiles framing this leaf, the thickness of different profile models is 20–50 mm.

The calculation scheme is approximately as follows:

• Measure the frontal distance between the extreme points;
• Divide this distance by the number of leaves;
• Now, to the resulting width of each sash, add 2–2.5 cm to the overlap;
• Further, if the thickness of the framing door profiles and the sealing tape is subtracted from the total width of the sash, then you will get the net width of the leaf;
• When calculating the height of the sash, we focus on the passport data of the mechanism. There, in order to get the net height of the canvas, you need to subtract from the total height of the niche, the dimensions of the roller mechanism from above and below, plus subtract the thickness of the guides and the door profile.

Types of rail mechanisms

The most popular now are mechanisms with a lower support roller. In other words, a pair of rollers are installed at the bottom of the door leaf, which ride along the grooves in the guide profile. There are also grooves on top and rollers located on the upper edge of the canvas moving along them, hold the doors in a vertical position.

This model works well on a concrete base, it is not advisable to install this mechanism on wooden floors. Sooner or later, under the weight of the cabinet, the floor will sag and problems with the doors will begin, plus garbage is constantly collected in the lower grooves.

Designs with upper suspension of the valves have 2 varieties. Cheaper, but less reliable is the top rail with two hooks under the door. This rail is rigidly attached to the ceiling and shutters with rollers are hung on it.

Installation of fittings does not cause difficulties and sashes are hung quickly. The problem is that it is worth pressing such a door a little and it flies out of the rails. In general, these mechanisms are not suitable for families with small children.

The monorail is recognized as the most reliable system in this niche. Here in each block there are 2 paired rollers and this whole system moves inside a metal profile pipe. The monorail can even withstand the weight of heavy wooden doors, but there are also disadvantages in it.

• Difficult installation - first, the rollers are inserted into the profile, then the profile is attached to the ceiling, and then the doors are suspended from the roller blocks. It is very problematic to do this alone and without experience;
• Prices for a monorail are 2-3 times higher than those of competitors;
• The guide profile needs to be covered with something;
• Roller blocks after installation must be adjusted.

Step number 5: cutting material and assembly

From experience, it is better to make home-made sliding wardrobes either from chipboard, or from laminated or veneered MDF, there is the best price-quality ratio.

A few words about cutting

Cutting slabs at home, even if you have a good tool, I do not advise. The fact is that you cannot laminate the ends of the house with high quality (checked). In furniture companies, the service of cutting and finishing ends is not expensive.

By the way, transporting large laminated boards is a troublesome business, so it’s better to order both material and cutting in a furniture workshop. They take goods in bulk, so the price difference will be acceptable.

Assembling the structure

It is better to start assembling from the inside of the cabinet. You have a diagram, the plates are cut to size, then you buy furniture corners and twist the entire structure on self-tapping screws or confirmants.

To the back and side walls of the niche, the "cage" of the shelves is attached at several points to the dowel-nails, there is nowhere for it to go in the niche, so you should not mount it too hard. First, vertical racks are installed, then shelves, drawers, etc. are gradually hung on them from the bottom up. Can be assembled in blocks.

After assembling the filling of the cabinet, you can proceed to the most important procedure - this is the installation of the lower and upper rails. They are set strictly horizontally, according to the level, even the slightest distortion is not allowed here, otherwise the doors will move by themselves. Do not rely on the adjustment of the rollers, it will not work.

If the floors are very curved and you do not want to level them with a screed, then you can install a wooden beam with a thickness of 50 mm or more and fix a support guide rail on it. Set the level with pads. From above, you also adjust with the help of wedges. Then all this "beauty" will have to be covered with decorative overlays.

Now it remains to assemble the door leaves, insert them into the guides and adjust the rollers to the ideal. Some systems use locking stops on the door. It makes no sense to list all types of stoppers, so when purchasing accessories, just check this question with the seller.

Conclusion

The above technology is universal, in this case we talked about furniture built into a niche, but you can also mount a free-standing or corner wardrobe in the same way. In the video in this article, there are several more mounting options. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.