Tying household pumping station. Selection and installation of a pumping station for a private house

It is not always possible to use centralized water supply, especially if the housing is somewhat remote from the city. But sometimes you have to connect special equipment, such as a pumping station for a house, the connection diagram of which depends on the operating conditions and parameters of the water source (well, well), and in conditions of insufficient water pressure from the central pipeline.

The most important, main components are the pumping unit itself and the storage tank itself. Depending on the version, the mechanism is controlled by an automation unit or a float element. As a result, it turns out that each of the operating nodes is found in different versions. For example, the storage exists in the form of a hydraulic accumulator and a tank. The pumping unit itself may or may not have an ejector. Moreover, the first of these options can be made with a built-in or external ejector.

Devices with a storage tank have a long list of disadvantages, among which the main ones are: large dimensions, and, accordingly, difficulties in installation, as well as the absence of forced action on water, which does not contribute to an increase in pressure in the system.

The most common today is the execution with a hydraulic accumulator. The principle of their operation is based on the features of the main unit, which is divided into two compartments inside the cavity. Both of them are responsible for different functions: pumping air or water.

The pressure level is monitored by a relay that turns off the device when it reaches a certain pressure level. If the value of this parameter drops to the minimum limit, the relay is activated and the device is put into operation. Despite its popularity, this type of equipment also has its drawbacks, in particular, not a very capacious tank.

with hydraulic accumulator

The main criteria for choosing a device

The installation of a pumping station in a private house is preceded by a careful selection of the most suitable model. Among all the functions, including the least important, you should first of all pay attention to the following:

• the suction depth of the device, which should correspond to the parameters of the well itself, because if these parameters match, as well as with sufficient power, you can get the highest level of productivity;
• water supply rate, it is also productivity;
• the power of the device, while you should not choose the model with the largest margin for this parameter, as this will lead to unnecessarily high energy costs;
• device control type: manual drive or automatic;
• the number of people who will use such a water supply system in the future;
• the volume of the tank, which will allow you to use the device for a long time without connecting to the mains.

If we talk about the performance of the device itself, then this parameter will never should not exceed the natural productivity of the water source(wells, wells). If these characteristics do not match, the liquid will be pumped with impurities.

A do-it-yourself pumping station for a summer residence is connected based on some information about the composition of the family. So, if the power of the device is not sufficient to provide the required rate of pumping water, then there will not be enough water in the system to provide a large number of people living in the house, which will lead to a decrease in pressure and uninterrupted operation of the device.

For example, in order for a family of 4 to be able to use a local water supply system, a device performance level of approximately 3 cubic meters is required. m / h, however, this figure may vary depending on the level of intensity of water use.

The principle of choosing a site for installation

The main disadvantage of pumping stations is the inability to use them in the cold season in unheated rooms or in open areas. It happens that users organize additional heating for devices standing on the surface of the earth, protected only by a primitive building. In this case, of course, there will be some effect from such actions, but in reality only excessive fuel consumption will result (if a liquid fuel heater is used, for example).

For more efficient and economical use of such units, before connecting a pumping station in a country house or in a private house, it is recommended to follow a number of rules:

• choosing a place for installing pumping equipment should take into account the possibility of supplying a centralized heating system, and the presence of energy sources is not desirable in the room;
• it is recommended to organize free access to the device, which will simplify maintenance in case of equipment breakdown;
• professionals advise install such equipment as close as possible to the water source(well, well).

As you can see, if you plan to purchase such equipment, the scheme for connecting a pumping station for a house and a summer residence from a well or should cover all possible features, up to the organization of a special room for these needs.

Choice of system: one-pipe or two-pipe?

In total, there are two options for connecting equipment of this kind, each of which implies the need to take into account several parameters: the installation depth of the equipment, the configuration of the water supply. So, there are single-pipe and two-pipe systems for connecting pumping equipment. In the first case, we are talking about shallow depths, while the second option is usually used to increase the depth of water suction by the pump from the well.

More specifically, some boundaries can be noted for both cases. For a single-pipe scheme, a threshold of up to 8 m depth is sufficient, for a two-pipe system - from 8 m or more. Moreover, the second option assumes use of pumping equipment with an external ejector.

How is the connection to the water source (well, well) implemented?

Usually, the location of the well is in close proximity to the dwelling, which greatly simplifies the extraction of water and its supply for the general needs of the family to the house. Accordingly, there is no need to dig an endless length of trenches for laying a pipeline, which is one of the main links in the chain of organizing local water supply using a pumping unit. Main works:

1. Preparation of trenches, which are made below the level of soil freezing and with a slight slope towards the water source to improve the efficiency of the equipment and supply water to the facility.
2. Preparation of a polyethylene pipe with a diameter of 32 mm from a well (well) for connection to pumping equipment. At this stage, a check valve and a mesh are mounted on its end part. Moreover, installing a pumping station in a country house with your own hands does not have to imply self-fastening of these elements, since it is quite possible to purchase a finished pipe with a check valve connected to it and a coarse filter (it is also a mesh).
3. Connection to the pump unit is carried out using a coupling, a metal corner with a thread.
4. Next, the pipe leading to the water supply is connected to the pumping equipment, according to the principle described above, using a combined coupling with an angle of 90 degrees and an "American".
5. Before the first start, water is preliminarily poured into the pump unit through a special hole.

A detailed diagram of the connection of the pumping station is shown in the photo.

Organization of connection to the water supply

When connecting the pumping station to the central water supply, connecting elements (fittings) are also used. A connecting element is attached to each of the holes (inlet and outlet), which ensures the tight fastening of the pipeline. The pipeline from the pumping station is connected to the water supply using a special tie-in or tee.

For better water purification it is recommended to install two filter elements: coarse and deep cleaning. And there are some nuances when installing such parts. Before connecting to the internal water supply, a deep filter is mounted, and a coarse filter element is mounted at the inlet of the pumping station. After fixing all the elements, the starting start of the equipment is carried out.

Thus, in total, not much work is required to be done at the stage of connecting the pumping station for the cottage and the house, however, it is the preparation that takes more time, for example, digging trenches for laying the pipeline.

For greater convenience, some tricks are often used to smooth the operation of such equipment, in particular, installing the pump on a concrete or brick base, on top of which there is a rubber mat. In this case, the equipment is fixed to the base with anchors. This will somewhat smooth out the effect of vibration during operation of the device.

For more information on how to install a pumping station in the country with your own hands, see the video.

Ideal location for a pumping station.

The question only at first glance seems simple. In order to find a place for a pumping station, I mean a complete pumping station, several difficult-to-combine conditions must be taken into account, namely:

1. The place should be warm all year round and preferably without additional energy sources.
2. The site should be easily accessible for routine inspections and repair of the station, if necessary.
3. It is advisable to place the pumping station closer to the source of water supply (well or well) for stable and reliable water suction.
4. It is advisable to place the pumping station closer to the water supply distribution manifold to reduce pressure losses due to pipeline resistance.
5. I would like not to hear the sound of a running pump when using water in the kitchen or in the bathroom. (I don’t know about others, it really annoys me, especially at night.)

I’ll make a reservation right away that I won’t consider the technical side of the issue: calculating the suction depth and pressure loss, measures to prevent freezing of water in the pumping station and pipelines, and ways to solve the problems that arise in this case, I will not consider in this article. This is a topic for a separate discussion. I would like to talk about the possible locations of the pumping station, their advantages and disadvantages in terms of ease of maintenance and operation.

Separate room in the house.

The ideal location for the pumping station, taking into account all the above conditions, is a boiler room located in the center of the house, with good sound and heat insulation. True, then the water source (well) should be located directly under the boiler room, and it is not recommended to leave the house in severe frosts or turn off the heating in the house for more than three days, otherwise everything will freeze.

Actually, a separate technical room in the house - a boiler room, wherever it is located, in any case, will be a good place to place a pumping station, regardless of the location of other elements of the system, if you permanently live in your house. The problems of soundproofing a room (if this is important to you) and thermal insulation of pipelines are easily solved, just do not forget about it.

Use of common areas in the house.

If there is no separate technical room, you can put a pumping station in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the toilet, in the corridor - in any heated room at home, you just have to put up with the buzzing of the pump during any manipulations with water. The source of water supply in this case should not be located too far from the house, well, or the problem of supplying water to the pump suction will have to be solved in some other way.

An undoubted advantage in this case will be that the pressure pipeline and all wiring around the house will always be warm. The disadvantage will also always be heard in a good half, if not in the whole house.

Installation of a pumping station in the underground (basement).

A good option is to put a pumping station in the underground or basement. If you do everything necessary in the pump and pipelines, insulate the basement and eliminate all possible drafts at least for the winter, and also provided that you have floors that are well insulating the sound of a running pump, you will get an almost ideal location for the pumping station. But, as in the case of the location of the station in the boiler room, the room in which it will stand must be taken care of in advance. And it’s better to think about it at the design stage of the house, because adapting the finished basement is both costly and time-consuming.

Using the heat of the earth.

Another good option for placing a pumping station is to put it on a special site inside the well or in a caisson specially made for this at the exit of the well. If the depth of the site or caisson is correctly calculated, then both the station and the pipes will not freeze in the most severe frosts. At the same time, the sound of a running pump almost does not reach the surface, and even more so is not heard in the house.

The lid of the caisson and the top of the well must be insulated to avoid the penetration of cold air. And the heat of the earth at a depth below the freezing level is quite enough for the comfortable operation of the pumping station.

The only problem in this case is the water pressure in the house, which depends on the length, diameter of the pressure pipe and pump power. But I would take it to the purely technical side of the issue.

But the maintenance of the pumping station in this arrangement will be difficult. We will have to come up with some kind of portable or stationary ladder, along which one could go down to the pump for its inspection or repair.

The location of the pumping station on the surface.

Of course, you can put a pumping station at the top of the well or in a box (booth, house) at the exit of the well to the surface of the earth, but it seems to me that this is a purely summer, country option. The only plus of this location is the accessibility of the pumping station, and not only to the owners. It is difficult to operate a pump located on the surface all year round, to put it mildly. Although I know extreme people who in winter heated a booth with a pumping station with an oil heater so that it would not freeze. But what do you need an extra headache. It would be better then to put a pumping station in the house and put up with its buzzing than to warm up not only the pump, but also the pipes that go to the surface of the earth.

Summing up this article, I’ll say that, most likely, I won’t open America for anyone: the sooner you think about the water supply scheme at home in general, and the placement of the pumping station in this scheme, the better the result will be and the less headaches there will be later during the operation and maintenance of your equipment. Ideally, the station works and works. Once a year, they checked the pressure it created on the pressure gauge, checked the air pressure in the accumulator - that's all the maintenance. I would really like it to be the same for you.

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Reviews (97) on "Where to put the pumping station."

Thanks for the answer. I put one valve and a grid, while everything is working fine. Only here another problem appeared. There is no pressure in the house. On the pressure gauge, which is at the station, it shows a pressure of 2 atmospheres, and in the house it is only 0.3 and a weak water pressure. Could this problem be due to incorrect pressure in the accumulator? Or maybe the problem is in the pipe that runs in the house. I don't want to tear everything apart. While there were vibration pumps for pumping water into the house, the pressure reached two atmospheres.

1. Hello Alexander.
   As in electrics, for the “correct” installation of the system and for it to work normally, it is advisable to make at least an approximate one. I don't know all the conditions of your system, so try it yourself, it's not difficult.
   Well, the accumulator has nothing to do with it. It practically does not affect the pressure in the system, because it is connected in parallel with the pressure water supply. And its "wrong pressure" is reflected only in the frequency of switching on the pump.
   If, according to the results of the hydraulic calculation, it turns out that the pressure in the house should be normal, then you need to look for the cause of the increased resistance of the pipeline going from the pump to the house. What it could be, I do not presume to judge. It can be anything: from clogged filters to inaccurate installation of polypropylene connections. You need to look and search in the place ...

In Len. the region inherited a summer house, with an old well (non-standard) and a Soviet surface pump that only worked on / off for a watering hose.
Now I want to organize automatic water supply at home “semi-winter” (i.e., constantly in the summer, and in the winter, on holidays). Accordingly, I think this way: in the fall, I drained all the water, turned everything off, and dismantled the National Assembly. He arrived on December 25 - he heated the house, went out to +, installed the NS - launched the system.
Need a set of equipment for:

How then is it better to organize the arrangement of the well?
Caisson? Adapter? Where to insulate pipes, the well itself?
Source data below:

1. Well 20m, water table at the level of 2-3m, diameter (internal) of the well pipe non-standard-50mm., external -54. The debit of the well is sufficient (high), the water level does not jump. The top draw point is 3-5 meters from the ground. pressure is necessary 2-4 atm. The distance to the house is 3-5 meters. There are 5 points of analysis in the house (2 wash basins, a shower, a toilet bowl, a faucet for household needs)

2. Filtering. At water, the indicators of Iron (+3) -1.1 mg / liter (at a rate of 0.3) were exceeded by 3.5 times. Turbidity - 3.8 at a rate of 2. 2 times. Everything else is normal.
With my distances to the house (5-7 meters), is it possible not to put the NS and other equipment in the caisson itself? Because I'm afraid of flooding the caisson, the GWL is high.
3. Many sellers citing ref. well data, advises Grunfos mq-45 Scala2, their cost is under 25t.r. Does it make sense to pay for them? Or you can look for cheaper options in the region of 12-18 tr from Wilo, Alko, Dub.



1. Hello Peter.
   Under your conditions and those tasks, it is more logical to install the NS in the house, in some utility room or in the kitchen, closer to the well. At the same time, everything can be organized in such a way that it will not be necessary to dismantle the National Assembly during the winter downtime. It will be enough to put drainages (drain lines), and before a long absence, just open them so that all the water from the system drains itself. And upon arrival, we simply close the drains, turn on the NA, bleed the air and ... you can use it. Of course, if you really want the National Assembly to stand on the street, you can do it that way. Here, as they say, "the master is the master."
   Different implementation schemes are possible, but, in my opinion, it is better to do it simply and reliably, without making a caisson and without putting an adapter (it simply won’t fit into the well). And to use, as it seems to you, the disadvantage of the well is the small diameter of the casing pipe, making it an advantage.
   What I mean?
   It is necessary to cut the casing pipe of the well somewhere at a depth of about one and a half meters and put a half-bend (angle of 45 degrees). Further, from the half-outlet, lay the 32nd polypropylene pipe directly into the house, to the installation site of the pumping station. Naturally, along the trench and with a slope (for this, a semi-tap is needed). The junction of the casing pipe through adapters and a half-outlet with a PP pipe must be sealed with a 100% guarantee, this is important (!). After, all this can be buried without any insulation, it is not needed.
   Further, according to the scheme, an air vent is placed (a little later I will explain why it is needed), a check valve, a coarse filter. You can also “plug” a tee here for the possible installation of a heating cable, although its work, if needed, is in extreme cases on frosty nights during the “winter holidays” 🙂. All this is at the suction of the pump, i.e. then the pump. At the pressure of the pump, in front of the automation (if the automation is based on a conventional pressure switch), we put a drain valve with water drained into the sewer. If the automation is electronic with a built-in check valve, then the pressure line drainage will have to be installed after it, and the automation itself will be screwed onto a quick-release connection, such as an "American". And then she can “grunt” because of the water remaining in her. You also need to provide for the drainage of the pump itself, if it does not have a standard one. After automation - filters (which, by the way, will also have to be drained before a long absence). Everything ... further wiring around the house than you want.

   Pump.
   Yes, after reading the characteristics of Grundfos, I “licked my lips like a cat on sour cream” 🙂, a good scoundrel ... But the price, like all Grundfos, bites. No, any quality pump will work for you. As for Alko, I won’t say, but Wilo, Dub, Marina-Pedrollo-Speroni, Gardena, Calpeda and others are quite. Moreover, the characteristics of the pump are quite ordinary: 45-50 meters of pressure, and from 2.5-3.0 m3 / hour flow rate, when wiring around the house with the 20th pipe. That's enough.
   The type of automation also does not matter much. You can also cheap with a hydraulic accumulator.

   Schema work.
   Actually, this is a common scheme for "Abyssinian wells", which, in fact, is your well. Those. when using it for the first time after a downtime, you need to fill the pump (yes, it would be necessary to provide some kind of filling scheme, although it is possible) and wait until the pump has expelled all the air from the suction line and starts to give out water (the same air vent must be closed). Then you can use it normally. The check valve in front of the pump and the tightness of the line will not allow water to go back into the well.
   And before leaving, in addition to draining water from all possible places, including filters and siphons of washbasins, and opening all taps so that the water can drain, you will also need to open the same air vent. And then the water itself will go to its previous level in the well, finally sucking in warm air from the house. Naturally, if you use water for several days in winter, then “in order to avoid” it would be necessary to turn on the heating cable. That's why I mentioned it. Although frosts down to -5, the suction line will survive without it.

Good day! I read your article, very intelligibly, thank you. I am going to install a pumping station in the well the other day, I wanted to make a platform in the well as in your diagram, but for health reasons and some other factors I decided to make a suspended platform on cables for the National Assembly. In which case it can be easily removed from the well. So, I wanted to ask if such an idea has the right to life. And in case of a lack of pressure at the end point, can a pump be added to the circuit to increase pressure?



1. Hello Sergey.
   Yes, such an idea has the right to life, why not. There is also the option of installing the pump on a floating platform, why not put it on a suspended one. I foresee only one (so far) small nuance: when the pump is started, the entire platform will twitch and sway slightly. These movements will be transmitted to the suction pipe. And if the suction pipe is close to the bottom, it can lift the bottom turbidity and suck it in.
   To avoid this, you need to either somehow fix the platform, or raise the nozzle at least half a meter from the bottom.

   The second question is somewhat surprising: why? If you already have a pump, and you are afraid that it will not be enough, then it is understandable. If there is no pump, then it is better to buy one than to complicate the system in advance. Or, as an option, “fit” the system to the existing pump, if there is no system as such yet.
   And so, of course, it is possible and even necessary in some cases. But I would only use one pump. It's easier, safer, and ultimately cheaper.

I installed everything, it turned out fine, the pressure is excellent. There were problems with lowering, the cables got confused a little, but everything worked out. There was also a question about humidity, because it’s only 4 meters to the water, I’m afraid it won’t last long.

1. "Long" is a relative concept, Sergey. I have only one meter between the platform with the pump and the water, well, maybe one and a half. And all this is at a depth of eight and a half meters. Pumps have to be changed periodically once every three to five years. But not because of humidity, but because of the development of the impeller of the vortex pump, the pressure slowly “sits down”. Quicksand at the bottom of the well makes itself felt, in spite of any filters and tricks. So humidity is not the main problem.

Hello! I put a pumping station in the basement, but now it is spring and the air temperature has risen, condensation has begun to form on the pump, hydraulic accumulator and pipes that go from the pumping station in the house, even on the toilet barrel. I do not know what to do. Would pipe insulation help? That is, in the summer it will not serve as a heater, but will work the other way around and there will be no condensation? But what to do with the toilet bowl? Or is it better to install the station itself in a well? Will it be of any use if the well is also cold. Thank you.

1. Hello Vladimir.
   Insulation of pipes and a hydraulic accumulator (HA) will help prevent condensation from appearing on them, due to their isolation from the surrounding air. At the same time, this means that the water in the pipes and the HA will heat up more slowly, and, accordingly, condensate will appear on non-insulated surfaces (on the toilet bowl).
   Transferring the pump and HA to the well will only help in the fact that there will be no condensate on them, because. The temperature of the air in the well is the same as the temperature of the water. But on all surfaces (on pipes, on the toilet bowl) that are warm, condensation is inevitable.
   You can only deal with this by using slightly heated water for the toilet bowl (it is difficult to insulate the walls of the toilet bowl and it does not look very aesthetically pleasing, although this can be done from the inside with foam plastic). This can be done in different ways, the simplest of which is to increase the volume of HA or use an intermediate tank, where the water will be heated by itself due to the heat of the surrounding air. Yes, condensation will form on these surfaces, but since The HA or container can be placed in a place where it will not be visible, and where drainage and ventilation can be provided to reduce the effect, then this is acceptable. But there will be no condensation on the toilet bowl.

1. Ramil, that's right. Just like any other location of the pumping station, in which it can work without loss of efficiency.

Autonomous water supply is a priority engineering structure in a private house, especially if there is no centralized water supply nearby. To ensure a constant supply of water to the house, you will need to install and connect a pumping station. Although this equipment is not cheap, you can still save a significant amount if you install and connect the station yourself.

When planning to assemble and connect the pumping station to the water supply in the house, the following points should be considered.

1. The unit must be located near a water source. This will ensure stable suction of liquid from the source and smooth operation of the station. If the equipment is placed far from the well (well), then it will not be able to pump water and will fail.
2. To install the equipment, you need to choose a dry, well-ventilated and warm place.
3. The device must not touch any objects or walls.
4. Access to the equipment for routine inspection and repair work should be free.

Important! When installing a station with a surface pump, the high noise level that it creates during operation should be taken into account.

Based on the foregoing, there may be several options for installing the unit.

In the house

For the correct operation of the station, the most ideal option is a heated room. Well, if a private house has boiler room with good sound insulation.

In extreme cases, water supply equipment can be installed in the hallway, bathroom, hallway or closet. But these rooms should be located as far as possible from the rest rooms (bedroom, living room). The device is placed in a cabinet or covered with a special casing that provides sound insulation.

In the basement

Most often, pumping equipment is installed in the basement of the house or in the basement. Sometimes the unit is installed under the floor, providing access to it through the hatch. In any case, the place where the device is installed must be with good sound and waterproofing. Also, it should be warm enough so that the temperature in it does not fall below 0 ° C in winter.

in the well

To place the station in the well, they install small platform. It is fixed below the freezing line of the soil.

In a caisson

In this case, in order to properly install the pump, a small room (caisson) is arranged around the water source, of sufficient width and depth (below the freezing line).

From above the caisson covered with a hatch through which the unit is serviced. The cover is well insulated for the winter.

Thanks to the pit, it becomes possible to provide autonomous water supply with a surface pump, even if the water level from the surface of the earth is at a depth of 9-11 meters.

In case of station assembly with submersible pump you should not worry about sound insulation, since the unit is located deep underground, and its operation is almost inaudible. All elements of the station are installed in any heated room, and the pump itself is installed in a well or well. This option for assembling a pumping station is well suited for a summer residence.

Pump station piping options

Under the piping of the pumping station, it is customary to mean the connection of pumping equipment to the piping system and other elements.

Connecting the station to the well

For the installation of a pumping station in a caisson or in a house, the same scheme is used. The beginning of the diagram is supply pipeline, which is laid underground, at a depth below the freezing level of the soil. At the end of the pipeline, a coarse filter is installed, consisting of a fine mesh. After the filter is set check valve, preventing the backflow of water when the pump is turned off. Below is a flow diagram (drawing) of a pumping station.

Important! This scheme for connecting a pumping station implies the location of the supply pipe inside the foundation of the house. It should be well insulated in this place.

The assembly diagram above can be improved (see figure below) if it is required to connect to the unit multiple water points.

Well connection

To connect a station with a surface pump to a well in which the dynamic water level is below 8 meters, it will be necessary to install it in a caisson about 2 m deep. If a submersible pump is used, a hydraulic accumulator and various electrical equipment, such as a voltage stabilizer, a automation, etc.

Automation of the process of taking water into the pressure tank is implemented via pressure switch, which turns the pump on and off at certain pressure indicators in the system. Also, to automate the operation of the pump, you can independently make a control unit. Below is a circuit diagram of such a unit.

The control unit works according to the following principle:

• relay K 1, turns the unit on and off;
• switch S 1, responsible for the mode of operation (water-drainage);
• the control of the water level in the storage tank is monitored by sensors F1 and F2;
• power is turned on by switch S 1, provided that the water level is below sensor F1 - in this case, the unit is turned on through contacts K 1;
• when the water reaches the sensor F1, the transistor VT 1 will open, after which the relay K 1 will turn on.

This circuit uses a low power transformer from a conventional broadcast receiver. The voltage supplied to the capacitor must be at least 24 V. Any diodes can be used, with a reverse voltage of more than 100 V and a current of 1 A.

The assembly of the station with a submersible borehole pump is carried out according to the scheme below.

Connecting the station to the water supply system

Sometimes it becomes necessary to use a pumping station, even when a centralized water supply is connected to the house. A station with a storage tank is usually installed if low pressure in the water supply system. Also, this equipment will be indispensable if the water supply through the main is carried out at certain hours.

The pumping station is connected to the centralized water supply as follows:

• bring a pipe from the centralized line to the storage tank;
• connect the pump intake pipe to the tank;
• the outlet pipe from the pump should be connected to the house's plumbing system;
• lay and connect electrical wiring to the unit;
• test run the device, then adjust the equipment for the desired performance.

Rules for launching and configuring equipment

Before starting the pumping equipment for the first time, you must first prepare the accumulator, since the stability of the entire water supply system depends on the correct pressure in it. A high pressure in the tank will provoke frequent turning on and off of the unit, which will not have the best effect on its durability. If there is an underpressure in the air chamber of the tank, this will lead to excessive stretching of the rubber bulb with water, and it will fail.

The hydraulic tank is prepared as follows. Before pumping air into the tank, make sure that the pear inside it is empty. Next, check the pressure in the tank with a car pressure gauge. As a rule, new tanks are filled with air at the factory. Hydraulic tanks up to 25 liters should have a pressure in the range of 1.4-1.7 bar. In containers of 50-100 liters, the air pressure should be in the range from 1.7 to 1.9 bar.

First launch of the station

To correctly start the pumping station for the first time, perform the following steps in stages.

1. Unscrew the plug that closes the water hole located on the unit body. On some devices, instead of a cork, there may be a valve. It should be opened.
2. Next, fill the suction pipe and pump with water. Stop pouring liquid when it starts to flow out of the fill hole.
3. When the suction pipe is full, close the hole with a plug (close the valve)
4. Connect the station to the mains and turn it on.
5. To remove the remaining air from the equipment, slightly open the tap at the water intake point closest to the pump.
6. Let the unit run for 2-3 minutes. During this time, water should flow from the tap. If this does not happen, then turn off the pump and refill the water, and then start the pumping station.

Automation setting

After a successful launch, you need to check and configure the operation of automation. The new pressure switch has factory settings for upper and lower pressure thresholds, upon reaching which it turns on or off the pump. Sometimes it becomes necessary to change these values ​​by setting them to the desired on-off pressure.

Automation adjustment is as follows.

1. Turn off the unit and drain the water from the accumulator.
2. Remove the cover from the pressure switch.
3. Next, you should start the pump to start collecting water in the hydraulic tank.
4. When turning off the device, write down the pressure gauge readings - this will be the value upper shutdown threshold.
5. After that, open the tap at the farthest or highest point of the water intake. As water flows out of it, the pressure in the system will begin to decrease, and the relay will turn on the pump. The pressure gauge reading at this point will mean lower switching threshold. Record this value and find the difference between the upper and lower threshold.

Normally, the cut-in pressure should be 2.7 bar, and the cut-out pressure should be 1.3 bar. Accordingly, the pressure difference is 1.4 bar. If the resulting figure is 1.4 bar, then nothing needs to be changed. At low pressure the unit will often turn on, which will provoke premature wear of its components. When overestimated, the pump will work in a more gentle mode, but the difference in pressure will be obvious: it will be unstable.

Advice! To increase the pressure difference, tighten the nut on the small spring. To reduce the difference, the nut is released.

When checking the operation of the relay, pay attention to How much water flows out of a faucet. If the pressure is weak, then a pressure adjustment will be required. In this case, the pressure in the system should be higher. To raise it, turn off the device and slightly tighten the nut that presses the large pressure switch spring. To reduce the pressure, the nut must be loosened.

You can pump water into the house from a well or a well in different ways - for example, equip a water source with a deep or surface pump, or equip it with a manual column and carry water into the house in buckets, or you can assemble a full-fledged water supply by assigning the responsibility for transporting water to the house at the pumping station . In the latter case, you are guaranteed complete automation of the water supply system. About it, and to be more precise, about how the pumping station is installed in the country, and will be discussed in this article from the site site.

Proper installation of the pumping station photo

Do-it-yourself installation of a pumping station in the country: choose a place

In principle, it is not so difficult to decide on the place of installation of a pumping station for a summer residence - there are not many options, unless, of course, reinventing the wheel. In most cases, it is mounted either in a pit near a well or a well directly in, or a separate room is allocated for it. In any case, it is impossible to get rid of laying an underground water supply. The only option that allows you to do this is to punch a well in the basement of the house - you yourself understand that this will not work with the erected building, so we will leave this option alone and deal with the features, or rather with the advantages and disadvantages of the three previous places pump station installations.

You can see how the installation of the pumping station in the country with your own hands and the principle of its operation can be seen in this video clip.

As mentioned above, the only thing that neither one nor the other option, or rather the installation site of the pumping station in the country, eliminates, is earthworks. This is something you have to put up with if you don't want to deal with problems like freezing plumbing in the winter. By the way, this is another reason to refuse to install the station in a pit. No matter how you insulate it, but if it does not work all the time, it is guaranteed to freeze.

Instructions for installing a pumping station: sequence of work

To make it easier to understand how the pumping station is installed in the country, we will consider the entire progress of the work in the form of a certain sequence of actions.

1. Earthworks and pipeline laying. Everything is quite simple here - a trench is dug from the water source to the house (to the installation site of the pumping station) or from the pit to the house (to the internal water supply). Taking into account the average temperature in winter, it will have to be buried at least 1.2 m. Further, too, is not difficult. A pipe is laid in the trench, well insulated and buried - first it needs to be covered with clean soil, but there is no need to throw construction waste there. Ideally, the pipe should be placed in a sleeve (in another pipe of a larger diameter) - in this case, if it breaks, it will simply be enough to replace it with a new one. The most difficult moment is lowering the pipe into the well - things are somewhat simpler with the well. You simply punched a hole in the casing rings and lowered the pipe into the water, having previously equipped its end with a special filter element and a check valve, the arrow of which is directed from. The presence of a check valve is mandatory - it will keep water in the pipe and sediment and prevent it from returning back to the source. You can’t do this with a well - you need a special adapter here. In principle, it is also not difficult to install, although you will have to tinker with it. The second end of the pipeline at this stage of work is simply brought out to the installation site of the pumping station.

   

   Installation of a pumping station in a well photo

2. Installation of a pumping station. Everything is also elementary here - at this stage of work, you just have to fix the station to the floor through the holes in its base. To make less noise, it is better to lay thick rubber under the fasteners. There are no other nuances, except for reliable fastening.
3. Piping of the pumping station. By and large, this stage of work is by no means difficult, especially if you have at least elementary concepts in the plumbing craft. Of the main nuances, only a couple of points can be distinguished. First, it is a shutoff valve. Some may consider it unnecessary, but as soon as you face the filling of the system, everything will immediately fall into place. In the case of repair, after the dismantling of the pumping station, in the absence of a tap, the water from the pipe will slowly but surely go back to the source, and then after installing the already repaired station, you cannot avoid re-filling the system. And so they closed the faucet, installed, again, at the water inlet to the station, and that was the end of it - the water from the pipe would not go anywhere. It is desirable to install a crane with an American - a detachable connection will allow for repair work without resorting to cutting pipelines. The valve is mounted directly at the inlet to the pump. Secondly, an American will also be needed to connect the pipeline at the outlet of the water from the pumping station. By the way, the tap will not hurt here either - it will block the water in the wiring around the house, and after installing the repaired pumping station, it will go to the pump, and the system will not have to be filled at all. The installation of shut-off valves should be carried out with the help of tow - there is no way to do without sealing the threaded connections.

   

   Installing a check valve at a pumping station photo

And, of course, filling the system with water. For this purpose, you need to install a tee in front of the outlet tap and equip its branch with another small tap - it is through it that you will have to fill the system with water. Slowly, through the watering can, so that air can escape from the system. By the way, in order to effectively fill the system with water, it is better to lay all the pipelines going from the source to the pumping station under a slope - in this case, the poured water will run down better, and the air will be more efficiently removed from the system. After the pumping station is filled with water (you will determine this moment when the water being poured will no longer pass into the pipe), it can be put into operation and enjoy the result, or rather the presence of water in.

Do-it-yourself installation of a pumping station in the country house photo

At the end of the topic, a few words about how to choose a pumping station for a summer residence. There are only three factors to take into account here. Firstly, this is the purpose - there are domestic and industrial pumping stations. The latter are best left alone, they will not be needed for a summer residence due to the high cost - they are not intended for those volumes of water supply. Secondly, it is a source of water, the features and type of which do not need to be paid attention at all, and if someone says differently, then he is a person far from the device and principle of operation of the pumping station. Modern equipment of this type can pump water from anywhere, even from the main water conduit - they are also used to increase the pressure in the system. Thirdly, the optimal modes of operation are daily fluid intake, the presence of manual and automatic modes of operation. In all other respects, modern pumping stations are unpretentious units.

Basically, everything. As you can see, choosing and installing a pumping station in a country house with your own hands is a very simple matter. If you thoroughly understand the principle of her work, then every man with skillful hands can cope with this task.

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Water supply is the main benefit of civilization, necessary for a full-fledged comfortable living outside the city. Owners of country houses and cottages located far from the centralized water supply provide uninterrupted water supply to their homes by installing a pumping station. With a round-the-clock supply of water for hot and cold water supply to the needs of the family, for watering a personal plot, as well as a washing machine or dishwasher, a household pumping station can easily handle it.

Connection of a pumping station

Implement selection

When choosing a pump for installing a pumping station in a private house, you should consider several indicators:

Model performance: the needs of the family must be fully satisfied, without exceeding the debit of the hydraulic structure. The norm of daily water consumption for each person is about 250 liters.

The depth of the rise of water from the source. With a well depth of not more than 10 m, a single-pipe system is sufficient; for water supply from a depth of 10 to 50 m, a two-pipe pump station with an ejector is recommended.

When calculating maximum head both the height of the water rise and the length of all horizontal sections of the water supply are taken into account.

Control system: automatic or manual.

Pump type: surface (placed on the surface) or submersible (lowered into a well or well). Stations with a surface pump are very noisy, but easier to maintain and repair, a submersible pump is silent, but very difficult to repair.

Availability and volume of water storage. Storage tanks, having large dimensions, complicate the installation of a pumping station with their own hands. And without having a forced effect on the flow of water, they do not contribute to the stability of pressure in the pipes. To ensure constant pressure in the pipeline, the storage tank must be mounted at a height. The level of its filling is regulated by a float, in the event of a malfunction of which there is a risk of flooding the room. Using such a "water tower" is not very convenient.

Approximately 20 years ago it became popular "turretless" system, which combines the operation of a pump with a hydraulic accumulator and does not require the construction of complex high-rise structures to connect the pumping station to the well.

The principle of operation of the station with a hydraulic accumulator is based on the fact that the main unit is divided inside into two compartments that perform the functions of pumping both water and air into pipes. In addition to the pump and the hydraulic accumulator, in such a connection diagram of the pumping station there is a pressure switch, a drain valve and a pressure gauge.

accumulator for placement no additional space required, since its volume is 25-100 liters. The pressure is regulated automatically by means of an installed relay. When the required pressure level in the water supply system is reached, the operation of the device is suspended. Improper connection and adjustment of the starting relay can lead to disruption of the entire water supply system. It is recommended to set the lower pressure for turning on the pumping device at 1.5 bar. The upper cut-off pressure is standardly set by the manufacturer at 2.5-3 bar, sometimes it is increased by hand to 5 bar.

Determination of the installation location

Since the turret cannot be used on an open surface without heating during the cold season, it installation in the country is possible only in three places:

1. In a warm, dry basement. If its area allows placing a pumping unit, the selected room is insulated and soundproofed. Since the equipment vibrates strongly during operation, it should be installed on a separate, solid, well-reinforced platform that is not adjacent to the walls. Otherwise, during operation, water pipes or walls of the house may be damaged.
2. In a separate heated building, following the same rules as when installing in the basement of a house. In the absence of a separate room, it is permissible to place the pump in the bathroom or in the kitchen, while realizing that it will make a lot of noise during operation.
3. In a caisson. It must be located below the level of soil freezing, that is, at least 2 m. Additional insulation requires a caisson cover.

The selected place for organizing water supply should be as close as possible to a water source (well or well) and provide free access to equipment for inspection and repair. It is undesirable to have energy sources in the same room with pumping equipment. Without a separate room or basement, it is possible to use a warm (not lower than +5 degrees) and dry underground with a hatch for the equipment of the pumping station. Not to hear how the pumping station works will help thick rubber.

Wiring diagram

For uninterrupted water supply to the pipeline, it is necessary correctly combine the water source into a single scheme(well or well), pumping station and consumers. In any scheme, regardless of the chosen location for the installation of pumping equipment, there is a suction pipeline connecting the well or well with the pump, the station itself and the pipeline to consumers.

All work on the installation of a pumping station for a well or a caisson with your own hands conditionally divided into several stages.

• The trenches are laid below the freezing line of the soil under a slight slope to the water source.
• Polyethylene pipes with a diameter of 32 mm are mounted in a well or borehole for supplying water to pumping equipment and connected to the unit.
• Domestic water pipes are connected to a water supply station.
• The electrical wire is installed and the system is started.

At the end of the supply pipeline, lowered into the well or well, a strainer is installed to prevent various impurities (sand, clay, other small debris) from entering the water supply system. Next, a check valve is installed for the pump, which does not allow water to flow back under its own weight when the engine stops working. Then there is a pipe to the unit. From the pumping station, the pipeline is laid to the house.

The closer the source of water is to housing, the less work will be required on laying trenches and pipes. The caisson is usually equipped with reinforced concrete tanks or concrete rings according to the principle of the well device. For insulation and water resistance, the inner surface is glued onto bituminous mastic with extruded polystyrene foam. In dry areas, where the groundwater level is at least a meter below the caisson, it is possible to lay out a brick pit, filling the bottom with concrete.

A two-pipe connection scheme, more complex, but more often used, is carried out according to the following algorithm:

All connections are required seal very carefully using linen or sealing paste.

The filter must be cleaned regularly. A clogged device stops passing water to the pump, contributing to its breakdown.

For normal operation of the check valve and adjustment of the starting relay, a small amount of water is poured into the pump through the provided hole before the first start.

Available in specialized stores pipe with check valve for water for pump and strainer assembled.

If the centralized water supply network passes in close proximity to your country house, the pumping unit can be connected to it. To do this, at the point of separation of the pipeline, the water supply is divided into two parts. The city main pipe is connected to the storage tank, and from the tank, water flows through pipes to the pump. The housing pipeline is connected to the outlet of the installation.

When installing a pumping station yourself, you must take into account some important aspects: