Is plowing the land really necessary, and in what ways is it done? Plowing with a walk-behind tractor: devices and rules of work Attaching and adjusting the plow.

29.08.202327.05.2017

It does not require a lot of fuel, takes up a minimum of space, is easy to operate and solves a number of important tasks, one of which is plowing.

Mini, medium or heavy?

In order for plowing with a plow (plowing) to be effective, it is necessary to choose the right equipment. When choosing, it is necessary to take into account, firstly, the area that will be processed with it, and, secondly, the tasks that it must perform.

There are three types of walk-behind tractors:

light (mini);
medium;
heavy.

Consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Mini or light walk-behind tractors

Used to work in small areas, they are also called motor cultivators. The engine power of these devices is up to 4.5 horsepower.

Among the advantages of motor cultivators are:

lightness (weight does not exceed 40 kg);
low price (from 6000 UAH);
the ability to process hard-to-reach places due to the small grip of the cutter.

However, light walk-behind tractors do not work for a long time, as they have an insufficiently powerful engine that quickly overheats and digs poorly into the ground due to insufficient weight.

Medium walk-behind tractors

Unlike light ones, they boast rear-wheel drive and are great for working on large areas (up to 0.5 ha). Weight varies from 45 to 65 kg, the cost of such equipment, on average, is 10,000–12,000 UAH. Engine power - 4.5–12 liters. With. Many models of medium walk-behind tractors can be equipped with additional equipment.

Main advantages:

the presence of a headlight and two gears;
the ability to attach a plow;
in comparison with a heavy one of this type, medium walk-behind tractors are more mobile, easier to turn.

Among the weak points of monoblocks of this class, a processing depth of up to 11 cm is distinguished, which is insufficient for many crops.

Heavy walk-behind tractors

Suitable for professional cultivation of land in areas larger than 0.5 hectares, as they have an engine power of 12 to 30 hp. With. and many extra features. The cost of heavy motoblocks is at least 12,000 UAH. Possibility of fastening, trailer or plow is one of key benefits motoblocks of this type. They break through easily and overcome the site many times faster than motor cultivators.

Heavy walk-behind tractors have additional options: the ability to adjust the pneumatic wheel and steering wheel (higher-lower), reverse. Notable shortcomings - bulkiness, and therefore it is necessary to make a lot of effort in order to turn the equipment; the need for reinforcement, because under high load, the cutter or handlebar may break.

Motoblock preparation

Having determined that medium and heavy types of this equipment are suitable for plowing the land with a walk-behind tractor using a mounted plow, we will figure out how to prepare the walk-behind tractor for operation.

Installation of ground holds

First, you need to install ground hooks with a diameter of at least 50 cm and a width of 18 cm. Having previously prepared the plug-in axles, place the equipment on a surface where it will stand level. Then, on the extended axles, instead of wheels with tires, install wheels with ground hooks. After installing the hooks, you can proceed to hanging the plow on the walk-behind tractor.

Did you know?Initially, farmers with their hands, later with sticks, and only in the 4th millennium BC a plow was invented, which until the middle of the last century symbolized the beginning of a new life and was the emblem of agriculture all over the world.

Attaching and adjusting the plow

Plows are attached to the walk-behind tractor couplers, different types of which have their own properties. Therefore, before installing a tiller on a walk-behind tractor, it is necessary to work on fastening it with a hitch. It must be fixed with one pivot, while maintaining play in the horizontal plane (5–6 °). By fixing the hitch with two pins or removing the play, you can get a rigid connection, which is a mistake.

Important!If the hitch does not have the possibility of backlash, then when the deepened plow moves forward and the resistance force from the soil acts on it, not only the plow with the hitch, but the entire walk-behind tractor will deviate to the side, which will greatly complicate the work.

Next you need attach the plow to the hitch without tightening the fixing nuts to the stop in order to start adjusting the ploughshare. This operation is best done with an assistant. When attached, you can proceed to setting up the plow on the walk-behind tractor. Adjusting the plow is more difficult than attaching it to the machine, but this process is very important, because if you mistune the plow, you will have to put more effort into plowing and it will not be of high quality. In order to adjust the baking powder on the walk-behind tractor, using stands, you need to balance the plowing implement with the plow. To do this, on identical wooden stands, the height of which depends on the desired plowing depth, we put soil hooks and the support leg of the walk-behind tractor. This must be done so that the walk-behind tractor does not outweigh the attachments in the direction.

The next step is using the adjustment bolts, tilt the plow bed in such a way that his heel is parallel to the ground. After that, you need to remove all the supports and adjust the carrier so that the handles are on the same level with the belt of the plowing worker. Thus, the hands do not get tired for a long time, working with the unit.

Final stage - stabilization of the level of the plowing plane. The angle between the sharp end of the plow and the ground can be adjusted by reversing the bolted connections or by using an adjusting screw. The second way is more convenient and practical. To do this, on a walk-behind tractor standing on a plane with an attached plow, it is necessary to unscrew the adjusting screw so that the blade of the attachment “lies” on the ground.
Then - unscrew the screw in the opposite direction so that the “rear” of the plow rises by 2.5 s. above ground, no more and no less. If this so-called angle of attack is too large or vice versa, the walk-behind tractor will not plow as it should.

Important!The choice of plow directly affects whether plowing the soil will be possible. When buying attachments, it is necessary to take into account the fact that its size is determined by the weight of the walk-behind tractor (for a unit weighing about 100 kg, a plow is suitable, the grip of which is 23 cm, the grip of the plow for machines weighing no more than 75 kg should be 18 cm).

Plowing the site

It is not difficult to figure out how to plow with a walk-behind tractor with a plow. To do this, you need to roll out the device to the place of plowing the land and along the first row, where loosening will take place, pull the cord on which you can navigate - the plow pulls to the right, and it is quite difficult to make the first row even without auxiliary means.

The handle of the equipment should be turned to the left in order to walk on a piece of land that has not yet been plowed. Before starting the main plowing, it is necessary to carry out a control plowing of the soil - a passage to the opposite end of the site at low speed.

This is necessary in order to check whether the ploughshare is adjusted correctly and whether the depth of the furrow is sufficient (it should be 15–20 cm). We place the right lug in the tilled furrow, turn on the first gear, tilt the device to the right and start moving. Having made the first control pass, we turn the device by 180 ° so that the right wheel of the walk-behind tractor is on the opposite side to the already plowed row, and move in the opposite direction. After the second pass, we estimate the depth of the furrow. If the depth is insufficient or the furrow is too deep, the plow must be readjusted again.

Having received a hectare, do not plow your land with a tractor. The view of the upturned earth, which then spreads like porridge from the rains and, drying up, becomes hard as concrete - a disgusting sight. Non-moldboard loosening methods are also bad: the walk-behind tractor turns the earth into dust, cuts worms in its path and wraps itself in weeds that are left on the beds as fertilizers. Try not to touch the ground. At all. One winter, as an experiment. In spring, the earth will become soft as fluff! You can easily stick your palm into it to full depth. The fact is that the water in the soil, freezing, breaks it into small grains. In spring, the ice melts and the water goes underground, and the space between the grains is filled with air. Not digging makes the earth soft, but frost! Note to the hostess: you can speed up the formation of humus by quickly freezing manure and other organic materials with dry ice or liquid nitrogen before applying them to the soil. This is especially useful in areas where winter is purely symbolic or in apartments. A shovel is needed only for digging potatoes and planting holes. Fears that without plowing and digging the garden will overgrow with perennial weeds will not come true! In a few years, you will notice that the garden is literally teeming with earthworms. But the joy will be short-lived: after the worms will come those who feed on worms - moles. They plow the garden up and down, hopelessly spoil all the plantings. Do not use chemical poison (harmful to plants and your health. Voles and hamsters winter freely on unplowed land and destroy up to a quarter of the entire crop and gnaw the foundations of houses (tested in a real settlement). In order to avoid rodents in the garden, you need to plant black root, several bushes are more than enough to make you forget about rodents forever.It does not hurt to plant black root next to fruit trees, because they also suffer from rodents and hares in winter.

You can fight rodents with humane mousetraps, boiling water, gas, hedgehogs and cats. Rodents are needed for the fact that they loosen the ground (first) and the second - for the fact that bumblebees live in their minks, and bumblebees are good pollinators. An excess of rodents is harmful to one, a lack to others. Bottom line: keep a reasonable balance of rodents, cats, hedgehogs, and bumblebees in your ecosystem. Perhaps the problem of bumblebees will be solved by a bee hive or wasp nests in wooden houses for wasps; it is not known which pollinators which plants pollinate and how qualitatively, who knows - share. Make houses for birds and wasps + plant more bushes. Birds are useful unambiguously - they eat pests. Make sure that there are no thrushes - they eat irga, chokeberry and other berries; perhaps the berry-eaters will be distracted by their excess (as in the old joke - plant so much that they choke :) in general, experiments should be carried out, maybe it will even come to falconry for thrushes and the anti-thrush division of tall-cats :) again the problem of ecosystem balance. Ideally, the balance should be maintained by its inhabitants themselves (according to the law of the jungle) without human intervention - so that a person does not waste his time on what nature should do. It is necessary to make Anastasia's clearing on our land - where all the animals and trees will do everything for a person and at his request.

Do an experience. Who does not believe - will check. Talk to weeds, explain to her where you can climb and where you can’t, give her a fiefdom. People say that herbs obey! The main thing is faith and love. Those who have already moved to the village or per hectare for permanent residence grow herbs "by order". And one more thing about faith: when planting something, believe that it will definitely sprout and be accepted. Seeds must be planted in the fall (what winter-hardiness) so that they get used to the weeds-neighbors, especially the first year of the development of the "virgin lands" - then the weeds will not drive out the cultural stranger, but will help him.

In unplowed land, the Colorado potato beetle winters worse. Such land does not require fertilizer, which your neighbors from the village are forced to pour annually in bags into their constantly losing soil. If you do not burn any weeds or leaves, then all this will be eaten by worms and there will be more than enough humus. Biohumus is one of the best and most expensive fertilizers. It is even better to add biomass from the surrounding mowing. Thus, you will save time on fertilization - as Anastasia said.

If the same real facts come from different continents, then this is worth thinking about. Spend in the spring in the country (or not a hectare) such an experiment:

Plant the first bed in the traditional way;

Plant the same number of seeds on the second bed as on the first, but do not dig deep into the ground - so that the seeds take root.

Next ... water the first bed vigorously, and do not water the second - just cut / mow from above those weeds that climb above the crop, so as not to obscure the crop. Then compare the quantity and taste of the harvest and remember the chapter "Taiga lunch". Those who read the books of V. Megre, plant half of the beds according to the Anastasia method (keep the seeds in your mouth) while others do not and also compare (there are facts that vegetables according to the Anastasia method are tastier). Do not waste your time on endless weeding - reality, weeds are friends.

Technologies with crop rotation and monocultural cultivation of plants for a family estate are not suitable in principle. It should be about organic farming using the principles of permaculture and mixed growing of plants. With the right selection of plants, the issue of insect pests, as well as many plant diseases, is practically removed - read books, now there is a lot of literature on this topic. If plants and animals fight against pests and weeds, you will save a lot of time.

According to one point of view, the seeds should be only their own. It is necessary to use non-purchased seeds, even from the best domestic breeders, namely your own seeds. When using your seeds, several important processes occur. First, there is a full guarantee that the seeds are normal. Secondly, plants will gradually restore their original natural set of genes. Unfortunately, today many "cultivated" plants have undergone changes not for the better. Thirdly, plants are gradually adapting to the given climatic conditions of the region, and even to the microclimatic conditions of this particular site and to its soil.

According to another point of view, it is necessary to buy new varieties and hybrids (seeds and seedlings). Old varieties and their seeds will die. Why? Because due to poor ecology, not only AIDS, a new flu and SARS appear, but also new diseases - plant micro-pests, they study old varieties and destroy them (phytophthora, cancer, etc.), new varieties and hybrids of diseases not up to the mark. Avoid genetically modified seeds and seedlings, they can cause allergies and diseases.

Two different points of view. What to do? Make 2 beds and see which is better. On one bed, old varieties and their seeds, and on the other, new varieties and hybrids. New varieties and hybrids can also be used to get your own seeds - do your own breeding.

Mandatory harvesting, which is used by summer residents and villagers, is erroneous. With monoculture, this really becomes a problem. But when mixed, it's gone. In addition, experiments show that with many plants it is possible to achieve their self-sowing, if part of the fruit is left for the seeds to ripen. That is, labor costs in the family estate can be further reduced due to this.

Conclusion: the fears of skeptics that it is unrealistic to cultivate a hectare are wrong. You will save time on: plowing, weeding, planting, pest and disease control, etc. - any action of a summer resident can be at least minimized and abolished as a maximum by instructing the ecosystem. Kurdyumov's new book "Shaping Instead of Pruning" allows you to save time on pruning fruit trees. There is another way: I use a hectare area to plant a lot of seedlings and the harvest will be due to the number of trees, and not the quality of their care.

Plowing the land is one of the most important agricultural activities. When preparing the site for planting in the spring or after harvesting, the ground must be dug up or plowed. This process helps to fill the soil with oxygen, remove weeds, thanks to which the snow on arable land lasts longer. You can use a shovel to dig a garden. But this is a rather laborious work, especially if you have to cultivate large areas of land. At present, thanks to the development of technology, this task can be facilitated by using a walk-behind tractor.

Motoblock is a universal device. With its help, they perform basic agricultural work: they plow the land, plant root crops, weed shoots, spud potatoes, harvest, mow grass.

1 Preparing for work

Before starting work, the walk-behind tractor needs to be prepared. To do this, connect to it, install lugs, check all the nodes.

1.1 Grousers

Plowing the garden is possible only by applying lugs. Because the load on the walk-behind tractor when plowing the land increases several times. Using lugs, this task can be facilitated. For this you need:

remove the hubs and transport wheels on the walk-behind tractor;
install hubs intended for lugs on the drive axle. Such hubs are longer, so the track width will increase and the walk-behind tractor will become more stable when plowing. Connect the hubs to the shaft with studs and fix with cotter pins;
install lugs on the hubs. Note that the tread should taper forward.

The size of the lugs is important, because with a small diameter there will not be the necessary clearance between the gearbox and the ground, and with narrow wheels the walk-behind tractor will “drive” along the furrow. The optimal size of lugs is: diameter - 50-60 cm, rim width - up to 20 cm. The weight of a walk-behind tractor with wheels is more than 70 kg. With less weight, the walk-behind tractor will slip.

1.2 Plow

The main components for plowing the land are the plow and. They should be collected in one mechanism. After that, install on the walk-behind tractor. There are hitches of various modifications, but it is better to use a universal one, this will ensure a secure fixation of the plow to the towbar of the walk-behind tractor and allow you to fine-tune the plow. When connecting the plow to the hitch, the fastening nuts should not be tightened immediately so that the plow can be adjusted. The hitch with the plow and the mounting earring of the walk-behind tractor are connected with two pins.

The walk-behind tractor should first be installed on stands, the height of which depends on the desired plowing depth. Stands with a height of 15 cm are needed for a plowing depth of 15-18 cm, and for 20-23 cm - the height of the stand should be 20 cm. We lay stands on a flat surface, on them - a walk-behind tractor. In this case, the plow is installed so that it touches the ground with a field board along its entire length. Make sure the plow leg is perpendicular to the ground and parallel to the inside edge of the grouser.
Next, you need to adjust the angle of the plow heel, or field board. The distance between the share (plow nose) and the heel of the plow should not be more than 3 cm (the size of a matchbox). With an unadjusted field board, plowing will deteriorate, the plow will dig heavily into the soil, which will lead to overheating and engine shutdown.
In order to adjust the equipment according to the track width, it should be noted how the nose (ploughshare) of the plow is located. The right edge of the share and the inner edge of the right wheel must be in line. At the same time, the earth will be cut evenly and it will be easier to work.

After assembly and adjustment, you should check the correctness of the work done by making a control plowing. Between the crests of the previous and next furrow, the distance should be no more than 10 cm. Also, there should not be a pile of soil from one furrow to another. To do this, the right wheel of the walk-behind tractor must move in the middle of the blade of the previous furrow. A properly adjusted walk-behind tractor works without jerks, the plow does not dig deep into the ground with a plowshare.

1.3 Preparations

For experienced plowmen, preparatory activities can be skipped. But for those who plow for the first time, an orientation cord should be stretched along the initial row of the site. When plowing, the plow usually pulls to the right, and it is difficult to make a row even. In this case, a stretched cord will help as a guide. The second and subsequent rows can be plowed without additional devices, since the wheel of the walk-behind tractor will move along the furrow.

2 Plowing the site with a walk-behind tractor

There are two ways to plow a vegetable garden.

Plowed up. Work begins from the center of the site. On the opposite side, the walk-behind tractor is turned around, the right wheel is put in the furrow and goes back. This results in a large comb. So they advance, plowing the whole garden. The advantages of this method are that if there is still a little snow in the garden, it falls into the furrows and does not melt longer, filling the ground with moisture.
Razval plowing. Start moving from the right edge of the site. At the end of the row, the apparatus is moved to the other edge and plowed again. And so they continue the whole plowing, row by row. With this method, the plow turns over the soil and fills it with fertilizer.

2.1 Starting the walk-behind tractor

Before starting work, turn on the clutch, select "neutral" on the gearbox, start the engine, which should warm up. The second is considered the optimal speed for cultivating soil of medium quality.

In the process of plowing, the number of revolutions may change. It is corrected when the plowing depth changes or when changing to a different type of soil.

2.2 Plowing the site

How to plow? To perform the main work, the equipment should be installed on the edges of the field. Place the steering wheel parallel to the ground.

Deepen the walk-behind tractor a little into the ground, pressing down. Move straight, holding the handles. You should not press hard on the steering wheel, just like pushing a working walk-behind tractor. The main task is to hold the steering wheel correctly so that the device does not sink deep into the soil or, on the contrary, does not rise up. Having made the first furrow, check its depth from the bottom to the crest, which should vary from 15 to 18 cm.

If the device has stopped moving, and the cutters are burrowing into the ground, then it should be taken by the handles and brought to a level position. Lateral deviations may occur, especially in cultivated furrows. On loose, cultivated land, make sure that the cutters do not sink deep, and on solid soil they make several approaches, making the first processing at low speeds.

At the end of the row, they turn around and continue plowing, or move from the edge to the center. At the end of the work, the mechanism is cleaned, the plow is detached from the walk-behind tractor and removed until the next time.

2.3 How to plow into the collapse with a Motor Sich walk-behind tractor? (video)

Depending on the size of the plot. They are divided into three types:

Motor cultivator or light walk-behind tractor. Weighs up to 50 kg. Power - 3-5 horsepower. Designed for cultivating land up to 6 acres using a cutter or cultivator.
Medium walk-behind tractor. Weight - up to 100 kg. Power - up to 12 horsepower. Plows a plot of up to 120 acres with the help of.
Heavy motoblock. Power - up to 30 horsepower. With it, you can process an area of up to 2 hectares. Works with a mounted plow.

The most important work of a gardener in spring or autumn is plowing a personal plot. Many on the farm already have it for these purposes, which greatly facilitates the work. Beginners may find it difficult to work with this technique. How to plow with a walk-behind tractor to carefully and correctly plow the garden. The answers to these questions will allow you to carry out the required work qualitatively.

Plowing the land in a dream yourself on a tractor or plow, seeing it plowed and sown is one of the safest signs. Especially if you dreamed of fertile soil. Dream Interpretations say that the dreamer is actively looking for business partners, marriage. The larger the plowed field, the greater the chance of success. Detailed answers to what arable land is dreaming of can be found from famous interpreters.

What does Miller's dream book promise?

A psychologist known for his predictions, considers why he dreams of plowing the land in two ways. His dream book claims that the soil plowed up with a plow or on a tractor means despair from a piled mountain of work. At the same time, he urges not to lose hope for gaining a well-deserved reward and profit for one's work.

Interpretation of a dream about a plowed field from a famous psychologist:

to follow the plow yourself - to large amounts of work, difficulties;
work on a tractor - there is a reason to start your own business;
to see plowmen - to the implementation of creative projects;
to sow arable land personally - to a generous reward, the achievement of goals.

Feel free to open your own business

If you happened to plow the land, see the arable land along which birds walk, plant plants in a dream - know that there will be no better omen for the implementation of your own project. Dream Interpretations recommend starting to embody even the most daring ideas. Long-standing expectations will come true if you dreamed that all the work on the sowing fell on you.

Unexpected joy, big profits, a fruitful year - exactly what dreams of plowing and harrowing virgin soil. The predictors are unanimous here: they call to cast aside doubts and engage in close attention to large projects.

Take care of your personal life

A cornfield plowed in a dream symbolizes fertility. If she dreamed of a girl - it's time to think about the birth of a child. Women's dream books speak of the readiness of young people to marry and engage in procreation. Plow the land, walk barefoot on it - to an established intimate life.

The famous psychologist Freud draws a clear parallel between the plowed area and the genitals. He explains in detail why he dreams of digging, plowing, planting. According to his forecasts, changes in intimate life will not keep you waiting. And most importantly - they will all be only in a positive direction.

When to take care

Plowing the ground and falling under it in a dream is bad. A dream means the beginning of a disease. If you dreamed that you were stuck, or you couldn’t go beyond plowing in any way, be attentive to your well-being, rest more often and be in the fresh air.

Foreword

Today, there are many ways to plow a large field or a small area, for which various types of plows are used, and it is useful to know the features of each method.

Why plow the land?

To sow the field with cereals or seeds of various vegetable crops, or to plant potatoes, it is necessary to prepare the so-called "seed bed", that is, a layer of well-loosened soil. But, according to the requirements of modern agronomy, it is not enough just to crush the fertile soil, it is necessary to mix several layers of it to a depth sufficient for sowing. Moreover, so that a solid plow sole does not form below the loose subarable horizon, which will prevent the absorption of rainwater.

It is for moving and turning over various layers of soil, as well as breaking large clods, that various types of plows are used, providing for a variety of plowing methods. The choice of one or another method of cultivating the land depends on what weeds, diseases or pests can overcome the arable land (according to the situation, the option of reversing the layer is chosen), what depth of loosening is necessary. In particular, some methods serve to protect soil from wind erosion, snow retention, and accumulation of melt water.

Types of plows used

In large farms, as well as in the arsenal of enterprises engaged in agricultural activities, there are many different attachments, and among other things, as a rule, several types of plows. They differ primarily in design: share, rotary, disk, as well as combined and chisel (which do not have dumps and are designed for plowing without turning the earth layers).

As for the rest, share plows are the most widely used since ancient times, and are based on a share, for rotary plows, the working body is a rotating drum with blades or blades. The name of the disc plow speaks for itself, as well as the combined rotary share plow. Each of the above agricultural implements for reverse plowing of the land comes in different models, which are divided into semi-mounted, mounted and trailed according to the type of connection.

According to their purpose, plows are divided into a larger number of types: cultivated plowshare, semi-screw and screw (simple and with angled), cut, plows with a subsoiler and for rhombic plowing. All of the above equipment is based on a plowshare, the shape of which depends on the required method of wrapping the arable layer of soil, as well as often additional devices for various types of plowing.

So, for example, the usual cultural share plow body is a classic type, in the design of which there is only a stand, a blade and a lower share. The semi-screw is supplemented with a field board located behind the working surface of the plowshare, as well as an extension feather at the rear of the blade. The screw plow is equipped with a disc knife, this tool is located in front of the plow body and is designed for preliminary cutting of the soil.

The screw-type plow is supplemented with the device indicated in the name of the plow, located in the upper part of the blade, with a chisel on the front edge of the plowshare and a vertical shark-fin knife mounted above it. The plow for rhombic plowing of the soil has a vertical share in front of the blade. Also, the plowing tool is often supplemented with a ploughshare on a separate stand, in the lower part of which a cone-shaped loosening paw is horizontally attached to the bracket.

The cut-out plow is equipped with two shares, lower and upper, a shield is installed between them, as a continuation of the blade, the front edge of which serves to cut the soil. Plough knives themselves have several forms. The most common is trapezoidal, and the chisel type, toothed and plowshare equipped with a retractable chisel are also widely used.

Ways of plowing the land allotment

Perhaps the simplest and most common way of tillage with a plow is the plowing of virgin soil with a full rotation of the cut layer of earth, for which a screw share tool is used. This type of field preparation for sowing is used in order to completely eliminate weeds in the area, which, after tipping over the formation, is at the bottom of the furrow under a layer of soil.

The upward-facing roots can no longer pump moisture out of the soil and provide the stem with the substances necessary for growth, as a result of which the weed dies, eventually turning into humus. This method is only possible under the condition that the width of the reservoir is 2 times greater than the thickness. The method of plowing with the rise of the seam is very similar in technology; for its implementation, the same screw tool is required, but the result will be only if the seam width is less than the thickness. This type of soil turnover is performed to obtain the largest area of land open to the sun and wind.

However, with a high level of soil sodding, part of the vegetation cover remains almost on the surface, between the ridges formed from the inverted layers. And the voids remaining below violate the mode of movement of moisture and air in the soil. To avoid the listed shortcomings of the plowing method under consideration, the plow tool is equipped with a scraper, which cuts off the trihedral part of the formation and dumps it into the furrow.

Cultural plowing of the land is carried out by a plow with the corresponding name, the surface of the blade of which has a pronounced cylindrical bend, and a skimmer is necessarily installed in front. This method of soil treatment is used on old-arable fields, where the inverted horizon is not divided into layers, but crumbles into small fractions. The skimmer cuts a small prism in the ground, which, together with the layer, is turned over by the plow blade and falls to the bottom of the furrow, after which the crumbling layer falls asleep on top of it. Thus, the sod is completely isolated in the thickness of the soil and gradually forms a layer of humus.

Similarly, two-tier plowing is carried out, for which it is necessary that the width of the skimmer be equal to the capture zone of the main plow. Then the auxiliary tool will cut off a small layer of soil, and the following plowshare will turn over the lower horizon. As a result, the sod will still be in the depths of the soil, increasing the fruitful layer, and the layer cut by the plow, crumbling into clods, forms a flat, loose surface on top. This method is very convenient in areas allocated for planting beets or cotton.

Very often, spring plowing of hard soil is carried out in several passes, in which case the tractor has to be driven along a strip of already loosened soil. To increase the efficiency of furrow formation, special plows with two shares, horizontal and vertical, are used. Such an implement forms layers, which in their cross section resemble a rhombus in shape, and provides a wide furrow, sufficient for the passage of the right rear wheel of the tractor. Actually, this is how the method of tillage is called - rhombic plowing.

Particular attention should be paid to the fertile horizon on which is very thin.

The following types of plowing are used to avoid soil depletion and to increase the thickness of the cultivated layer: a plow with a cut-out body, as well as an ordinary share, but with a subsoiler. The first method allows loosening the podzolic layer without lifting it from the depth of the furrow, but only partially mixing it with the sod, which gradually increases the thickness of the fertile horizon. The use of a subsoiler generally excludes the mixing of layers and is carried out for loosening podzolic soil, in which, after processing, soil-forming processes begin, leading to its cultivation.

Land cultivation without topsoil wrapping

Today, there are more and more opponents of the full turnover of the fertile soil layer, since plowing is always a violation of natural processes in the soil. In particular, microorganisms that contribute to soil formation without human intervention are killed in large quantities. In order to avoid the invasion of the cultivated horizon of the soil into the biosphere, more and more often, when processing agricultural plots, they switch to agriculture without plowing.

This method of cultivating fields involves only loosening to the required depth without the formation and wrapping of soil layers. In traditional plowing, plowshares with moldboards are used, which turn rather large layers of soil up to full or partial turnover, and at the same time close up the sod to the bottom of the furrow. Further, harrowing is necessary to grind the earth, which, due to precipitation, significantly settles and compacts. Tillage without tillage, on the contrary, makes the soil looser, which provides better access to moisture without disturbing the soil ecosystem.

A tool that is suitable for such work is a chisel plow with shares without mouldboards. After it, the passage with disc cultivators is mandatory. It should be taken into account that subsurface plowing is far from being applicable everywhere, in particular, it is not desirable to use cultivation of fields by cultivators on lands subject to wind erosion due to the destruction of stubble.

Another option for tillage without turning the layers is with the help of flat cutters. Such a tool carries out deep loosening, which gives a positive result, both on and in the steppe regions with high wind erosion of the soil, where it is very important to keep the stubble intact. Flat cutters only slightly affect the top layer of the earth, thus preserving plant residues that protect the soil from weathering, and also retain moisture in it. Thanks to this approach, the resistance of the soil to erosion increases over time, and the fertile layer becomes thicker.

And, finally, it is useful to mention the zero-tillage method, or, in other words, No-Till, that is, the soil is not only not plowed, but is not loosened at all. More precisely, a one-time pre-treatment with cultivators is carried out to level the surface of the site. Further, the field is covered with mulch, for example, straw chopped to a certain size or chopped corn stalks. A thick layer of such a coating prevents the growth of weeds that do not receive sunlight and die.

Planting crops on such a field is carried out with the help of special seeders that immerse the grains to a certain depth. The disadvantage of this method is the need for a large number of herbicides.