How to build a brick fence with your own hands.

We build a brick fence in the country with our own hands

Brick fences are strong and durable. It is this advantage of them that contributes to the popularity of this type of fencing. This design can withstand strong impacts. Several layers of bricks are sometimes used to strengthen it.

If the fence is made taking into account all technical requirements, it can last 50 years or more. Not every material can boast of such performance characteristics.

Pros and cons of fencing

The main advantages include the following:

• does not require maintenance;
• does not need painting;
• there is no need to clean it;
• fits well into the countryside;
• hides the site from the prying glances of passers-by;
• provides security.

However, the brick fence has its drawbacks. These include:

• the appearance of efflorescence (bloom whitewhich forms on the surface of the brick). This plaque is the result of crystallization of salts on the surface of the material and is difficult to remove;
• the need for careful selection of bricks. If a low-quality material is used, in bad weather conditions (rain, snow), it can begin to crumble after a few years. Installing an additional canopy over the fence can solve the problem, but this will lead to high costs;
• high price and laborious work on the construction of such a fence.

The structure can be built independently. This requires certain skills in the field of construction and knowledge of all stages of this kind works.

Varieties of brick for a fence

Before starting the construction of the enclosing structure, you need to decide on the type of material for it. Best fit brick used for cladding (for example, red clinker). Such material is somewhat more expensive, but it is not only durable and reliable, it also gives the fence a more aesthetic appearance.

When constructing a structure, you can use ceramic brick... It differs in that it has a rough surface. And the ability to choose from several shades will give the fence a unique look. As for the pillars, they are also often made of bricks. Moreover, you can use the same type as for the fence.

To save money, they sometimes use sand-lime brick... Outwardly, the design will noticeably lose to the fences made of the above material, but in terms of reliability it is in no way inferior to its more expensive "competitors". In addition, such a fence can subsequently be veneered.

Preparation for construction

The preparatory phase begins with drawing preparation and measurements... This will allow you to calculate the amount of costs, as well as the optimal pitch of the fence posts, which will bear the main load (along with the foundation). The distance between them is usually two to three meters.

The next step - cleaning the territory, on which the structure will be erected. The grass is harvested first. This can be done either with a side cutter or a lawn mower or trimmer. It is also necessary to clear the area of \u200b\u200bbushes, trees and debris (it is important to remember that when cutting trees, you must also remove the roots, otherwise they can interfere with construction).

Tool selection

Before you start building a brick fence, you need to prepare the appropriate tool:

• You will need a trough to mix the solution. A simpler option is to rent a concrete mixer.
• For transporting mixtures and materials, it is advisable to prepare several buckets and a wheelbarrow.
• When preparing the foundation, you cannot do without a shovel.
• In the process of laying bricks, a trowel is useful for leveling the mortar.
• At the stage of marking, a tape measure is used, as well as a square.
• To control the horizontal and vertical planes, you will need a plumb line or a building level.
• Using the rule, the front of the masonry is checked.
• Rows are marked using ordering.

The foundation for the fence

Then you can start building the foundation. Marking is done with pegs, on which a thin rope or fishing line is wound around the entire perimeter of the future structure. It is important to pay attention to the fact that the corners must be right. At the same stage, it is necessary to determine the location of the wicket and gate. The places where the pillars will be located are marked.

For a brick fence, a strip foundation is usually created, the depth of which should be at least 60 centimeters (ideally, the depth of the trench should be about 1 meter).

As for its width, this aspect depends on the type of masonry, as well as the estimated height of the entire structure (usually the fence is built in half a brick, and its height does not exceed two meters). Where pillars are supposed, additionally drive in metal pipes to strengthen the structure.

The foundation trench is covered with gravel (from time to time it must be watered to achieve shrinkage). The formwork is mounted along the entire length of the future structure. It is recommended to immediately prepare all materials for pouring, as it should be carried out on the same day (to avoid joints). To strengthen the base, you can use reinforcement; for this purpose, it is laid along the entire perimeter. The foundation dries within seven days, then it should be covered with a compound that will protect it from moisture absorption.

Erection of pillars

Supports for such a fence are of several types:

• one and a half, their thickness is one and a half bricks;
• double, their thickness is two bricks.

It should be noted that the pillars may have other sizes, but this will be the exception rather than the rule. When building them, it is important to build on what function they will perform (support for the span, gate or wicket).

Masonry work is carried out evenly, in compliance with all the rules, as well as strapping, so that the structure is more durable. For this purpose, fittings can be used. Places between the pipe and brick must be laid with mortar and tamped well. To save concrete, you can use broken brick or stones. In the process of erecting pillars, it is necessary to constantly measure the verticality using a plumb line or level.

After the laying work is completed, the supports must stand for two weeks... After that, they can be treated with impregnation, which will prevent the appearance of white spots (if red brick was used as a material). In order to prevent moisture from entering the upper part of the structure later and not accumulating there, it is recommended to provide a special cap (made of metal, ceramics, concrete or wood).

Fence masonry

For masonry, a cement mortar (water, sand and cement) is used. When erecting spans, one row is usually made. However, if a tall structure is planned, it is better to do two rows... Multi-colored bricks can be used to create a unique design, but this must be planned in advance, at the stage of project preparation.

For DIY construction, follow these instructions:

1. In the process, you should constantly monitor the level. For this, it is recommended to use a tensioned twine (a pre-prepared board frame is also suitable for this purpose). The volume of solution between the rows must be the same. Excess is removed even before they dry.
2. Professional builders recommend using orders (they are mounted in the corners with nails). It is necessary to apply the mortar to the brick with a trowel. With the same tool, you need to remove the excess. And in order for the materials to have better adhesion, the brick is pre-soaked in water.
3. After laying, the seams are processed. For this, either an ordinary solution is used, or compounds that can be purchased at hardware stores. An important point is the waterproofing of the fence (the same principle applies as for the protection of poles).
4. The top of the fence is laid with roofing felt and fixed with nails. After that, liquid glass is added to the solution, while constantly stirring. As soon as the disappearance of moisture becomes noticeable, the resulting material is laid out on the surface of the roofing material in the form of a gable roof.
   If there is no desire to carry out these works, it is recommended to install special skates made of ceramics, metal or wood. The material of the ridge of the span should be in harmony with the material of the cap on the posts (this also applies to the color).
5. The final stage in the construction of the fence is the jointing (if desired). This technique is performed using special spatulas with various notches. The tool is passed along the joints in the brickwork to give them a more noble look. The result is quite interesting solutions.

Major mistakes during construction

When building this type of fence, there may be some shortcomings that can significantly affect the appearance and functionality. These include:

• Incorrect determination of the distance between the posts (usually too large a distance). The supporting elements of the fence are designed for certain loads. Even a small excess of them can lead to very negative consequences, up to destruction.
• Before starting the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to correctly determine the depth of the trench. IN general recommendations this parameter can reach from 50 centimeters to one meter. Nevertheless, in each case it is necessary to proceed from the depth of soil freezing. Another important point is the size of the foundation itself.
• A typical mistake is concreting pillars in clay soil. The result of such an oversight may be the bulging of some supporting elements in the spring. This happens because during the thaw period in winter the soil thaws unevenly and is unevenly saturated with water. With the onset of frost, soil that is unevenly saturated will react differently to frost. It is better to concreted on sandy soil, since it is good for moisture permeability and does not contribute to squeezing out the pillars.
• When laying, it is not recommended to use bricks signed at the factory with chalk. Such labels are not deleted. The material should be made using one technology and preferably one batch.
• You shouldn't masonry without a special template. Otherwise, there is a risk of incomplete filling of the joints or the ingress of mortar on the front of the brick. As a result, this element will have to be changed, since it is impossible to scrub its surfaces with strong acids - this can lead to loss of color.

How can you veneer a brick fence?

If, for example, silicate brick is used as the main material, its not quite specious appearance can be hidden behind the cladding. Natural stone, besser, crushed granite, sandstone and so on are used as the material. The very principle of work is as follows:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to attach a special mesh or welded mesh to the surface (in the second case, the thickness of the wire should not exceed one and a half millimeters).
2. After that, the wall is plastered ( this stage obligatory to avoid the appearance of voids between the brickwork and the facing material). In addition to plaster, a special coarse-grained filler is applied to the fence to roughen the surface (layer thickness not more than 30 millimeters).
3. After the plaster is dry, you can start the cladding. Before applying the stone to the surface, it must be rinsed so that there is no dirt, clay or sand on its surface (they can interfere with adhesion). The mortar is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 2 to 1. It is possible to add glue for outdoor use. The resulting mixture must be diluted with water.

An important feature of this type of work is that the solution is applied not to the fence, but to the stone... The size of the joint between individual tiles should not exceed one and a half centimeters. After the work is over, the stones are washed with a special solution to remove dirt and covered with a compound that will protect them from the effects of climatic conditions.

What can you combine such a fence with?

A brick fence can be combined with almost any building material. For example, it could be tree... In this case, the pillars are made of bricks according to the method described above, and the span is made of wood.

At the same time, today quite often you can find a combination of a brick fence and corrugated board... Unlike wood, the metal profile is more durable, although it is somewhat inferior to it in aesthetic parameters. A more noble, but at the same time more expensive material is metal picket fence ... It also pairs quite well with bricks.

Finally, there are fences where brick is combined with forging... Unlike the previous options, this one is not suitable for everyone, since such fences completely open the entire internal space.

Since ancient times, the best way to enclose private estates has been to build a brick fence.

My home is my castle. And what modern fortress would do without a solid stone fence ?! A good brick fence is both external decoration and reliable protection from uninvited guests.

Brick is a traditional material, and has a number of positive properties and advantages over other types of fences, namely:

1. Reliability, which directly affects the safety and inaccessibility of the land.
2. The durability of the building. The average service life of such a fence is 50-60 years, provided that high-quality material and cement mortar are used.
3. Ease of operation. After the construction of brick fences is over, they do not need to be repaired, washed, painted, primed and treated with special compounds.
4. A wide range of architectural and decorative solutions. A brick fence will easily fit into any landscape of a land plot, regardless of what the soil will be.

The disadvantages of a brick fence include:

1. Labor intensity and high cost of construction (4-6% of the value of the house). This justifies the need to carry out foundation construction, reinforcement, protection and decorative trim natural materials (stone, granite, sandstone, marble, etc.).
2. Possible salt build-up on the outer surface of the brick clack. This can be avoided by using high-quality cement grade M-400/500 and demineralized water.

Preparation for construction

The technology for erecting a brick fence assumes the presence of the following tool:

Building pillars

A brick fence on a strip foundation with fine patterned masonry between the posts. 1.Strip foundation 2.Ground level 3.Rail pole 4.Masonry

To begin with, we erect a basement with a height of 0.3-0.5 m. The most acceptable material is rubble stone and brick. The width of the brick base depends on the width of the main fence. You can also put the formwork from edged boards or OSB and fill the base with concrete. After the basement device is finished, we waterproof the fence. For these purposes, take roofing material RCP and lay it in two layers on the upper surface of the base. You can take aquaizol and make waterproofing in 1 layer. This will prevent waterlogging of the brick fence during heavy rains and snowfalls.

We proceed to the construction of the pillars. We erect the pillars around the racks. The cross-section of the posts ranges from 300 to 500 mm, depending on the diameter of the posts.

A brick fence on a strip foundation with patterned masonry between the posts. 1. Strip foundation 2. Ground level 3. Iron pole 4. Brickwork.

We take a brick for the pillars, we select the color schemes ourselves. For reliability, the masonry can be tied with a masonry net. This is done every 4 rows. Also, when laying pillars of gates and wickets, it is necessary to make mortgages. The hinges of the wicket and gates, as well as the locking bar are subsequently welded to the mortgages. The mortgage is a 70x70 mm metal plate installed in the same area with the masonry. The mortgage is welded to the corner 50x50 mm, and the corner is welded to the metal rack inside the post. For the supply of electrics in the masonry, I lay sleeves made of plastic pipes... Then a cable is pulled through them to power lamps, an electric lock, CCTV cameras, mechanism motors, an intercom, etc. In the upper part of the pillar, a cap is made in the form of an overlap of brick rows 1 cm in each direction.

Laying of linen, covering and blind area

A brick fence on a strip foundation with solid masonry between the posts and with a forged pattern. 1. Strip foundation 2. Ground level 3. Iron pole 4. Brickwork.

After the construction of the pillars, we carry out. For originality and decor, you can use special inserts and protrusions made from other bricks, sandstone or natural stone... For bandaging the masonry, we use a masonry mesh every 4 rows. We use reinforcement with a diameter of up to 4-6 mm for ligating posts and linens. Control of the straightness and verticality of the web is carried out according to the plumb line, level and long rule. After the construction of the canvas is completed, we cover the caps and the upper part of the canvas with a cover with a drip edge made of galvanized iron to prevent moisture penetration. A concrete cover can also be used, but it is less reliable.

To prevent water penetration under the foundation and reduce the heaving forces, a blind area is made with a width of 0.5 to 0.8 m. The thickness of the blind area is 80-100 mm. For this:

• carry out markings for the construction of a blind area;
• level the ground;
• do sand preparation no matter what type of soil you have on the site;
• fit and knit reinforcement (4-6 mm), cell 200-300 mm;
• poured with concrete.

Finally, I would also like to note that the construction of brick fences is quite an expensive pleasure and does not tolerate mistakes when performing construction work. Therefore, strictly follow the rules or entrust the construction of brick fences to professionals.

Erection brick fences should be carried out only by specialists, since even the slightest mistake can be very expensive - the fence will lose its presentable appearance, the durability and reliability of the entire structure will suffer.

The company's specialists are ready to carry out the construction of the following types of brick fences for you:

• deaf (solid) - are the most resistant to various mechanical damage;
• combined - combine several different materials - brick, polycarbonate or corrugated board.

Attention! Installation of a brick fence is carried out only!

Brick fences - the highest performance

Erection, construction of a brick fence is not a quick matter, but this small minus is fully justified by a number of advantages of brick fences:

• strength, reliability;
• aesthetic appearance;
• shock resistance;
• safety;
• durability;
• minimal maintenance.

The hallmark of the "VSEm ZABORY" company is the individual approach and the highest professionalism of the employees. We build brick fences that not only please with their appearance, but also become a real protection! Contact us!

Brick fence prices

Prices for related services when installing a brick fence

• Strip foundation, one rm size 40/20 - 2650 RUB /size 40/40 - 3600 RUB / size 50/30 - 3600 RUB
• Price for one brick pillar - 12500 RUB

• The price of installing a brick fence with your materials - 550 rub. / 1 p.m.
• The price of the strip foundation - 1700 RUB / 1 p.m.
• The price of the 1st brick pillar with your materials is RUB 8,800

• Measuring services - RUB 3000 / call. (When signing a contract and making a minimum advance payment, a specialist's visit is free)
• Dismantling the old fence - from 100 rubles. for 1 meter, depending on the complexity of the fence.
• Generator - 1500 rubles per day.
• Delivery of Materials to the construction site - RUB 3000

All prices are in rubles and include VAT. You can consult on the purchase and construction of a brick fence by phone or call a specialist to the place.

Perhaps, there is no other such type of fence, which would be compared with a brick in terms of strength, beauty and durability. Therefore, the desire of many owners is so great household plots to build a brick fence with your own hands. Let's consider in great detail the process of building such a fence, we will compare all its disadvantages and advantages.

• Reliable protection against penetration of unauthorized persons into the territory.
• Resistant to any external influences (wind, snow loads, precipitation, mechanical stress, etc.).
• Attractive appearance.
• Long lasting.
• Does not require special maintenance during its operation.
• It is prestigious, indirectly indicating the wealth of its owner.

The disadvantages are the following:

• A large amount of land work during the construction.
• Large consumption of material (brick), its high cost.
• A large expenditure of time and effort for the construction of such a fence, the complexity of the construction scheme itself.
• Difficulties with transportation and its relatively high cost.

As you can easily see from the above, you will have to choose between the expenditure of effort, time and money and the subsequent quality.

Basic principles of construction

A brick fence consists of two main parts - support pillars located at a certain estimated distance from each other and the walls (spans) between these pillars.
Pillars and walls are usually erected on a strip reinforced foundation, under which a trench is dug. Pits are dug under the secure fixation of the pillars. After the foundation is built, pillars are built first, and then walls.

What materials do you need

DIY brick fence - needs the following materials:
1. Brick (main building material)

You can use both ordinary ceramic and facing, figured, etc. If you use ordinary brick, then most likely you will have to spend money on plastering it after erecting the fence to get a more aesthetic appearance. The sizes of bricks can also be very different. Usually single bricks are used. When buying, it should also be remembered that approximately 5% of the brick will have to be bought in excess of the calculation due to a possible brick break.



2. Steel pipes Pipes of square or round cross-section with a diameter of about 60 mm for reinforcement of supporting brick pillars. The length of the pipes depends on the depth of their immersion in the ground and on the height of the posts. The usual height of the posts is about 2-3 m, excluding the height of the caps. Then the length of the pipes will be approximately 3-3.5 m.
Common grades used are M200-300 (grades B15-22.5). Required for construction monolithic foundation, as well as for pouring into the inside of the pillars. Concrete can be purchased ready-made, or you can prepare it yourself right at the construction site from cement, sand and crushed stone or gravel.
4. Materials for the construction of the formwork. Various boards, their parts and pieces, new or used. Required for the construction of the foundation. You can rent ready-made formwork if finances allow.

5. Fittings for the construction of the foundation reinforcement cage, knitting wire. Required for foundation reinforcement. Includes smooth reinforcement (for vertical and transverse reinforcement) with the usual diameter of about 6-8 mm, as well as ribbed, main reinforcement for longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The exact diameters depend on the calculation based on the dimensions of the projected fence.


6. Sand. It will be required for the manufacture of masonry mortar, as well as for construction sand pillow under the sole of the foundation. Fine quarry yellow sand is not suitable for all these purposes. River sand or any other coarse or medium-grained sand that does not contain clay is suitable.

7. Cement. It will be required for the manufacture of masonry mortar. Portland cement is commonly used. You can do without cement by purchasing a ready-made masonry mixture in the store in advance, although it will cost, of course, more expensive than making it yourself. This article assumes that the masonry mix will be purchased by the owner ready-made.
8. Crushed stone. It may be needed if a crushed stone bed is planned under the foundation of the fence.

What tools do you need

A DIY brick fence will require the following tools:

• Shovel - for digging a trench. In some cases, for example, if the length of the fence and the depth of the foundation are large, you can use an excavator.
• Hand drill - for drilling holes for the installation of support pillars. If there is no drill, then you can use an ordinary shovel, although it is not so easy to dig a relatively narrow hole with more or less vertical walls with a depth of 1 meter or more.
• Welding machine - required if the posts will be additionally welded to the reinforcement cage, and also if it is decided to connect the reinforcement rods by welding.
• Measuring instruments - construction plumb line, level, theodolite to control the evenness of the construction site, verticality and horizontal position of the support pillars and fence walls.
• Bricklaying tools - this includes a trowel (trowel), a hammer, a wooden lath and a tool for pointing seams.
• Waterproofing compounds or roofing material - required for waterproofing the foundation. Bitumen or bitumen mastics can be used instead.

Calculation (example) of the amount of building materials required for construction. Before starting the construction of the fence, you must first draw up a drawing of it, and then calculate required amount consumable... Below is an example of the calculation of all basic materials. Today, such calculations can be done directly on construction sites on the Internet using various online calculators... Nevertheless, to check the correctness of the calculation, it will not be superfluous to manually estimate the consumption.

Fence parameters

Plot: rectangular 20 x 30 \u003d 600 m (6 ares).
Gate: one piece, 3 m long.
Wicket: one piece 1 m long.
Fence spans: 2 m.
Fence spans masonry: 1 brick.
Post masonry: 2 bricks.
Bricks used for posts: 250x120x65 mm.
Span bricks used: 250x120x65 mm.
Bricks used for the plinth: 250x120x65 mm.
Seam thickness: 0.01 m.
Height of pillars excluding caps: 2.2 m.
Span length: 4 m.
Trench depth: 0.7 m.
Trench width: 0.5 m.
Foundation height from the ground: 0.1 m.
Sand cushion: 0.15 m.
Crushed stone pillow: 0.2 m.
The presence of the base: yes.
Base / plinth height: 0.3 m.
Base / plinth masonry: 2 bricks.
Support pipe diameter: 0.06 m.

Payment

Let 0.25 * 2 \u003d A (double the length of a single brick),
0.25 * 0.25 \u003d B (area occupied by two single bricks),
0.01 * 4 \u003d C (quadruple the height of the masonry joint),
0.065 * 4 \u003d D (quadruple the height of a single brick),
0.065 * 0.01 \u003d E (thickness of the masonry end seam),
0.065 + 0.01 \u003d F (brick height including masonry joint).
Then we have the following.
The total length of the fence will be 2 * 20 + 30 * 2 - 1 - 3 \u003d 96 m.
Number of sections: 96 / (4 + 0.01 + A) \u003d 21.3 pcs.
Number of posts: 22 pcs.
Number of pipes for reinforcement of pillars: 22 pcs.
The amount of sand for filling: 96 * 0.15 * 0.5 \u003d 7.2 cubic meters. m.
The amount of rubble for filling: 96 * 0.2 * 0.5 \u003d 9.6 cubic meters m.
Length metal supports for reinforcement of pillars: 2.2 * 3/2 \u003d 3.3 m.
The depth of the pits for the installation of pillars: 3.3 - 2.2 \u003d 1.1 m.
The amount of concrete for the foundation: (0.7 - 0.15 - 0.2 + 0.1) * 0.5 * 96 \u003d 21.6 cubic meters. m;
The amount of concrete under the supports: (0.01 - 0.12 - 0.12 + A) * 2 \u003d 0.54; 0.06 * 2 * 3.14 / 4 \u003d 0.094; 0.54 - 0.094 \u003d 0.446; 2.2 - 0.1 \u003d 2.1; 0.446 * 2.1 * 22 \u003d 20.6 cubic meters. m;
Total amount of concrete: 21.6 + 20.6 \u003d 42.2 cubic meters. m.
Bricks for the base (in total): 96 * (D + C) * 394 * (A + 0.01) \u003d 5787 pcs.
Span bricks (total): (0.065 * B) + (0.01 * B) \u003d 0.0040625 + 0.000625 \u003d 0.0046875; 96 - 22 * \u200b\u200b0.51 \u003d 84.78; 84.78 * 0.25 * (2 - 0.3) \u003d 36.0315; 2 * 36.0315 / 0.0046875 \u003d 15373 pcs.
Pillar bricks (total): (2.2 - 0.1) / F * 6 * 22 \u003d 3696 pcs.
Total bricks total: (15373 + 3696 + 5787) * 0.05 + (15373 + 3696 + 5787) \u003d 26099 pcs.
Base mortar: (C + D) * 96 * (0.01 + A) * 0.24 \u003d 3.53 cbm m.
Span masonry mortar: 0.01 * B + 0.25 * E \u003d 0.000625 + 0.0001625 \u003d 0.0007875; 15373/2 * 0.0007875 \u003d 6.053 cc m.
Masonry mortar for pillars: (0.12 * 6 * E) + (0.51 * 0.51 - B) * 0.01 \u003d 0.000468 + (0.2601 - 0.0625) * 0.01 \u003d 0 , 002444; (2.2 - 0.1) / F * 22 * \u200b\u200b0.002444 \u003d 1.51 cc m.
Total masonry mortar: 6.053 + 1.51 + 3.53 \u003d 11.1 cu. m.

Preliminary, excavation and construction works

All foreign objects and things should be removed in advance from the territory of the future development so that they do not interfere during the work. The territory is cleared of debris and leveled. Evenness can be controlled with a level, theodolite and similar instruments. Stakes are installed in two rows along the perimeter of the site. The distance between the rows should be equal to the width of the future trench for the foundation. A rope is pulled through the stakes.

Further, with the help of pegs, places are marked for the installation of support pillars. Now you should dig a trench and pits under the pillars along the marked area. The holes can be dug both by hand with a shovel and with the help of an ordinary hand drill. You can use an excavator to dig a trench, especially if the fence is quite long. The depth of the pits is approximately 1 m, and the trenches are at least 0.5-0.6 m and depends on the height of the posts and spans, the type of masonry, the grade of bricks, the type of soil and other factors.

Further, on the bottom of the pits and trenches, a small layer (0.1-0.15 m) of moist coarse-grained or medium-grained sand is laid as a sand cushion under the foundation and carefully compacted. You can lay a small layer of rubble or gravel on top of the sand layer to avoid stagnation and drain water from under the soles of the future foundation.

Formwork construction

Next, shuttering boards are knocked down from the boards and then they are placed along both vertical walls of the trench along its entire length. Shields are always knocked down from the side that will be directed to the wall of the trench. It is important that the front side of the shuttering boards (the one that will be directed towards the inside of the trench) is flat. Large gaps in the formwork panels are inadmissible. They should be sealed with slats in advance. The height of the formwork should slightly exceed the upper limit of the future foundation. The shields installed in the trench are knocked down with transverse boards and propped up from the outside to fix them in a strictly vertical position along the trench before pouring concrete. So we will get a high-quality brick fence with our own hands.

Reinforcement cage construction for the foundation and installation of pillars.

Reinforcement cage is made of smooth and ribbed reinforcement by tying the intersections of longitudinal, transverse and vertical rods with knitting wire. Instead of knitting, welding can be used - it is faster and more convenient, but less effective due to the lower strength of the reinforced cage obtained in the future (weak bending work under the action of vertical forces).

Longitudinal rods are arranged in two or three rows in each horizontal plane. The number of planes is two or three, depending on the height of the foundation and on the design load on it. The distance between the nodes should be approximately 200 mm. Next, the made reinforcement cage is immersed inside the trench. Pillars are installed in the pits. Check their verticality in all directions: the pillars must have a strictly perpendicular orientation relative to the plane of the earth's surface. To fix the pillars in the desired position before pouring concrete, it will be good to temporarily support them with stones, sticks and other available materials... Another possible option is to tie or weld them to the reinforcement cage.

Pouring with concrete

Now the concrete mixture should be poured into the trench and pits. Concrete can be used both purchased and prepared with your own hands. It is important to pour all the concrete in one go to get good strength for the entire foundation. It is known that concrete gains strength gradually, reaching 40% of its maximum strength on the 7th day.

During all these days, the monolith should be protected from possible precipitation by wrapping it in a waterproof film. The resulting foundation must be waterproofed by any modern means, for example, penetrating waterproofing, bitumen, etc.

Laying of spans, pillars and basement

Brickwork begins with the construction of a basement, and if it is not provided for by the project, then, as a rule, from the pillars. The basement is made on the basis of a foundation tape of 1.5, 2 or 2.5 bricks. The main purpose of the fence base is a beautiful appearance. The height of the plinth is usually about 300 mm, i.e. 4 rows of single bricks, taking into account the masonry joints. Masonry for posts is usually used in 1.5 or 2 bricks. The idea of \u200b\u200blaying pillars is as follows. Above the plinth, in marked places, pillars of brick are laid out with a height determined by calculation.


Metal posts are lined with bricks on all sides. It turns out the following construction: a metal pillar inside and brickworkforming the outer sides of the pillars. After the masonry is completed, concrete is poured into the brick pillars, and on top of the pillar is covered with a special (usually metal) cap that prevents precipitation from entering the pillar. Caps can be made by yourself, or you can buy ready-made caps of any colors and configurations. The spans are usually laid in 0.5, 1 or 1.5 bricks. The span is built directly on the plinth or on the foundation if there is no plinth. The height of the masonry fence of 1.5 ordinary bricks is usually limited to 2.2 m, therefore, for higher spans, the masonry should be made in 2 bricks. The height of the posts usually exceeds the height of the spans by about 10%. From above, if desired, the span, as well as the pillars, can be protected from precipitation by a cap.

General principles of masonry

The pre-wetted bricks are laid on the masonry mortar, previously applied with a trowel to the masonry base. It also removes excess mortar formed when laying bricks.

DIY brick fence - correct masonry

The horizontal and vertical position of the bricks is checked using a building level, which must be constantly applied to the bricks that have just been laid on the mortar. If any brick deviates from the vertical, lies unevenly, then its position is corrected by tapping on it with a hammer with a plastic or rubber tip. To correct the position of several adjacent bricks, a rail is usually used, on which it is tapped with such a hammer.

When building a span, it is most convenient to control the horizontality of the rows of bricks by stretching a rope (cord) between adjacent pillars at heights approximately every 5 vertical rows of bricks. All masonry is done with the obligatory dressing of the seams. If facing bricks are used, if additional finishing of the brick fence is not expected, then it is advisable to do the jointing during masonry. The embroidery always looks beautiful. Colored jointing, which is made by adding dyes to the masonry mortar, looks even more beautiful.

As you can see, a brick fence with your own hands is a rather complicated, painstaking and expensive process. Nevertheless, you can do all the work yourself without involving construction crews, but you need a very serious, careful attitude to business at all stages of construction and then you will get a fence that will serve you for many, many years.

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