How to insulate a frame house with siding. What is the best material to insulate a house? Required tools and cladding material.

Wood - natural material... Houses made of it retain heat well, are harmless to health, and are quite durable. An important advantage is the ease of fastening on wooden surfaces of any finishing materials. And yet, given our climatic conditions, wooden walls, especially in old houses, need to be insulated. Warming wooden house outside with mineral wool under siding is a good option, recommended by experts. This measure will be justified if heating costs decrease and the service life of the log house increases. It is better to do the insulation from the side of the street to protect the walls not only from winds, rain, snow, but also from the scorching rays of the sun.

Practical vinyl siding is very popular for decorating a wooden house outside. Its undoubted advantages:

• affordable price for all segments of the population;
• does not lose its qualities for 50 years or more;
• quickly and easily covers walls of various configurations;
• just being renovated.

Houses clad in siding with mineral wool outside are literally transforming our villages and towns. But there are many specifics in the operation of wooden buildings.

It is important to know that due to the large temperature difference in cold weather outside and in a warm house, wood begins to absorb water vapor from the inside. Therefore, the wall must necessarily "breathe", that is, let the steam out. A decisive role for this function is played by the use of special films and the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the siding.

The houses where the owners live all year round, no vapor barrier is needed. This must be taken into account if siding is used for finishing external wooden walls insulated with mineral wool.

Types of mineral wool. Preparation for styling. Sheathing design

The main purpose of mineral wool is for sound and thermal insulation of walls, roofs, ceilings and other structures in buildings, structures, pipeline systems and other structures. Minvata can fight heat loss and create comfortable living conditions for people. When choosing mineral wool on your own, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

• composition - basalt (stone) wool is preferable to fiberglass;
• density - the higher this indicator, the better the thermal insulation;
• the dimensions of the slabs - directly affect the dimensions between the frame posts.

Glass wool

Basalt mineral wool

Slag

You should also carefully study the accompanying documents and find out for what specific purposes this insulation is used: to isolate sound, to prevent heat loss, to protect against the spread of fire. Manufacturers often write on the packaging about the place of application of this type of mineral wool: for the facade of a building, for interior walls, for the roof of the house and other works. There are three types of minvata:

• stone (basalt) is made from rocks;
• fiberglass - these are the finest threads of glass;
• slag is produced from waste slag.

All types of mineral wool are not flammable - this is its undoubted plus, especially in combination with a combustible wood.

Mineral wool insulation is best used in the form of standard rectangular plates, with an optimal thickness of 50 and 100 mm. The main guideline when choosing a thickness is the climate. It is convenient to place mineral wool slabs and fasten it on the outside with your own hands to the wall, if you correctly mark and fix the bars for attaching them to the facade of a wooden house. As a heater on wooden walls stone mineral wool is best suited for siding. This insulation has many unique properties:

• low thermal conductivity (0.035-0.045 W / m), which allows maintaining a comfortable microclimate in residential premises;
• incombustibility (able to withstand strong heating up to 700 degrees and open fire);
• good sound insulation;
• high heat resistance (from –180 degrees to +700 degrees Celsius);
• resistance to shrinkage and warpage in any conditions;
• durability;
• resistance to moisture (water absorption level is only 0.5%);
• good vapor permeability;
• environmental friendliness (does not emit harmful substances, therefore, mineral wool is absolutely harmless to human body; resistant to various chemicals; fungi and cargoes do not like it);
• ease of use (not prickly);
• does not require qualifications and is easy to fit with your own hands.

The process of laying mineral wool sheets with your own hands on the walls of a wooden house from the outside is quite simple, but you still need to adhere to the recommendations of the instructions and have experience construction works... Basic requirement: the boards must be laid evenly, without leaving gaps. To do this, you need to be able to cut them or supplement them with pieces of a certain configuration. Especially carefully you need to approach the marking of the lathing in order to prevent gaps at the joints of the plates and their adhesion to the bars. The outer surface must be prepared before insulating and fastening the siding. Downpipes, lamps, shutters and other elements are removed from it. It is thoroughly cleaned of any dirt.

The frame on which the siding will be attached with your own hands must be made of even, antiseptic, wooden bars. Metal profiles are not desirable, as they collect condensate that freezes in winter. Usually, wood bars with a section of 50x50mm are used, which corresponds to the thickness of the mineral wool sheets. You need to prepare for laying mineral wool. It is especially important to take this into account when the work is done by hand. Insulation made of sheets has a decent weight, therefore, for reliable fixation, special glue and reinforcement with dowels are used. Resistance to mineral wool sheets is given by friction with bars, glue and dowels. A special film is applied over the insulation. It has specific properties: waterproof on the outside, but permeable to steam from the inside. It is attached to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.

First, a crate of insulation is made. The bars are arranged horizontally. Their thickness should be equal to the thickness of the mineral wool slabs. All bars are leveled. On top of this lathing, a counter-lattice for siding with a pitch of 40-50 cm is fastened with self-tapping screws. The bars are placed vertically in it. This design provides a ventilated gap between the insulation sheets and the siding, and also reliably fixes the mineral wool sheets.

Thermal insulation scheme for a wooden house for siding

Installation of siding panels

A special lock is provided in the siding panels, so their installation is simple even with your own hands. They easily form an attractive seamless surface in which neither the fastening method nor the self-tapping marks can be discerned. The panels are easily sawn with a hacksaw for metal. Siding has practical and valuable properties:

• it is easy for them to cover any surfaces: roofs, walls, pediments, plinths;
• it is quite durable and strong;
• it does not rot or rust;
• he is not afraid of moisture;
• he is not afraid of the sun's rays;
• he has a large selection of textures and colors.

To lay vinyl siding with your own hands, you need to purchase required amount additional materials:

• J - profiles;
• external and internal corners;
• finishing, starting and finishing strips;
• near window slats and ebbs for facing window and door openings;
• chamfers, spotlights, flexible profiles for facing gables and arched windows.

Do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house with siding from the outside should begin with the installation of the starting plate and outer corners. Facing of vertical surfaces is carried out from bottom to top. The panels are assembled correctly if the panel clicks loudly when the lock is locked. Don't forget about the temperature compensation gaps. Siding panels are very flexible, so they can be slightly bent for ease of installation. Small difficulties arise when sheathing with your own hands last panel under the cornice. Almost always, it is narrower in width (trimming is needed) and you need to wind the top edge into the finishing rail while simultaneously snapping the lock.

Installation locations for siding strips

Comments:

For insulation and exterior decoration houses most commonly used siding. This modern material has excellent insulating properties and is characterized by a long service life as well as high aesthetic characteristics.

To sheathe a house with siding with your own hands, you must follow a certain sequence of actions, which is described below.

Required tools and cladding material

Before insulating a house with siding, you need to prepare the following:

• grinder;
• saw;
• square;
• hard brush;
• roulette;
• a hammer;
• building level;
• scissors for metal;
• screwdriver;
• putty knife;
• wide brush;
• siding;
• construction hair dryer;
• thermal insulation material;
• moisture-proof composition for walls;
• primer;
• slats for creating lathing;
• overhead corners for siding;
• vapor barrier material;
• antiseptic composition for wood;
• silicone sealant;
• windproof film;
• self-tapping screws;
• galvanized nails.

In addition, you will need a ladder or scaffolding. They can be made from durable wooden boards by yourself or you can buy ready-made ones.

Siding house cladding process

Pie scheme of the wall under siding: 1- bearing wall; 2- lathing; 3- thermal insulation; 4-air gap; 5- membrane; 6- siding.

You should start finishing the house by dismantling all those elements that will interfere with the installation of the frame and the fastening of the material. These include: lamps, platbands, ebbs and so on. After that, inspect the facade of the house for cracks, they must be filled with silicone sealants.

First, clean the walls of the house from dirt and loose plaster with a spatula and a stiff brush. Then treat the walls with a moisture-proof compound using a wide brush. Dry the surface thoroughly with a construction hairdryer, and then apply a layer of primer to it. Leave it on for a few hours. After this time, go over the walls with a construction hairdryer, this will allow them to dry well.

If the facade of the house is made of wood, then it must be treated with a fire retardant primer.After all, siding is a combustible material, so it is so important to carry out the procedure for processing the walls of the home.

At the next stage, you will need to take a vapor barrier material and cover the entire surface of the walls of the house with it. It is better if the film is used as it. You need to fix it with nails. A windproof film is lined on top of the vapor barrier.

Heat-insulating material is fixed on it, but you should not use too loose, otherwise it will subsequently settle, which will lead to a violation of the integrity of the skin.

Now a frame is created from rails. The lathing is necessary here in order to align the walls of the house. It is required to do it in increments of 30-40 cm, starting from the foundation of the dwelling. It is best to fix it to the wall and connect the slats with the help of galvanized fasteners, then in the future, rusty smudges will not appear on the siding. In this case, the slats must be made of dry wood, which must be pre-treated with an antiseptic composition.

The most responsible and time consuming stage involves. Mount panels finishing material it is required to start from the bottom, having previously secured the starting rail, set in level. The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. They need to be screwed into the middle of the mounting holes. Then each part snaps into the groove of the previous one.

Please note that you will need to adjust some panels to fit your home, in particular those that will be mounted on the sides and in the last top row. To do this, use a saw and metal scissors.

When all the siding is secured, another important operation will be required - to close the panels from the sides and end to protect the home from water and crosswind. This requires the use of wide overhead siding corners. Their fixation is performed on self-tapping screws. Previously, you will need to make holes for them.

The main mistakes when decorating a house with siding

In order to perform the trim of the dwelling correctly and provide it with a long service life, you need to know what mistakes many novice craftsmen make during such work:

1. Fastening screws along the edges of the panels. This approach will lead to their deformation or breakage. It is necessary to indent at least 3-5 cm from the edges.
2. Fixing the starting guide to the level of the foundation. In most cases, the base of the house has different heights around the perimeter. Therefore, it is so important to set and fasten the starting rail at the level, having previously completed the marking.
3. No gaps between panels. They must be left behind. After all, siding will contract and expand under the influence of humidity and temperature changes. If you fix it closely, then it will warp in the future, and the decoration of the house will become unusable.

Heat loss through the walls of a building can range from 30 to 80%, depending on the material of the walls. When choosing a heater, you need to take this into account, and choose a heater with the lowest degree of thermal conductivity... The specific type of material will depend on two factors: climatic conditions and the material of the building walls.

Materials for insulation of external walls for siding

Types of heaters:

1. Mineral wool insulation. They are made from metallurgical waste, silicates and other rocks. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.042 W / m * K. Minvata has good fire-fighting properties. The main disadvantage is high water absorption coefficient (about 70%).
2. EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam). Low thermal conductivity (0.03 W / m * K); water absorption does not exceed 2%; ease of installation. These advantages and high density of the material (up to 40 kg / m3) provide it high thermal insulation properties. A significant drawback is the high degree of flammability.
3. Expanded polystyrene suitable for insulation of foundations and rooms with high humidity.
4. Styrofoam. It has low level thermal conductivity (0.035 W / m * K) and water absorption. The material contains many gas bubbles. The buyer can choose slabs of different thickness and density. The disadvantage of foam is that rodents love it.
5. Polyurethane foam. Received by mixing two substances - polyol and isocyanate. Low thermal conductivity, good noise insulation, high density, low water absorption. Resistant to mold, decay, rodents and insects do not start in it. Its disadvantages: destroyed by UV exposure; when attaching siding the integrity of the layer is violated, and this reduces the effectiveness of the material.

The first two types of insulation have better sound insulating properties than foam and polystyrene foam, but at the slightest wet lose their thermal insulation propertiesTherefore, it is better to mount mineral wool with special membranes. Polyfoam and EPSP during installation may require additional sound insulation.

When choosing between roll and slab materials the following should be taken into account: rolled mineral wool serves more efficiently on horizontal surfaces, does not fit well at the joints, and so that the dew point is not in the room, the material must be laid in two layers. Plate insulation does not have such disadvantages, therefore is more often used for wall insulation.

The environmental friendliness of the material plays an important role. Basalt insulation, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam wins here.

What kind of insulation to choose for the facade?

Owners of wooden, squared and log houses appreciate unique properties of wood, its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity. When insulating a house with its siding, it is important not to lose these advantages and not increase the disadvantages (fire hazard, high degree of water absorption, insects).

From this point of view, PPU is perfect for a wooden house. The material has good vapor barrier, is applied in a thin layer and does not weigh down the walls of the building. Fire safety, resistance to temperature extremes. The microclimate inside the wooden house will be preserved.

Mineral wool and fiberglass are also popular for wooden structures because of their fire-fighting properties.

Brick houses

Extruded polystyrene foam and basalt insulation are recommended for brick houses due to ease of installation and soundproofing properties.

Foamed polyethylene with the addition of fire retardants, extinguishing additives is used to insulate brick houses. Lack of the need to involve installers.

Despite the indicated disadvantages of foam, it is actively used in the insulation of brick houses for siding. The reason is simple - ease of installation, relative cheapness of material and environmental safety. For families with children and allergy sufferers, this is a great option.

Houses made of aerated concrete and foam blocks

When choosing a heater for aerated concrete, it must be borne in mind that blocks of this material are distinguished by high vapor permeability. The wrong choice of thermal insulation can only worsen the indoor climate and shorten the life of the home.

The vapor-proof material will disrupt gas exchange between the room and the environment.

The condensate will collect at the border of the wall-insulation and will moisten the wall. Aerated concrete will be covered with mold and will start to rot.

Mineral wool insulation, like aerated concrete, has a high vapor permeability. Such a "duet" will have a positive effect on the microclimate at home. Due to the ease of installation and relatively low cost, mineral wool is often used for insulating houses from aerated concrete.

Polyurethane foam is also gaining in popularity. For houses made of aerated concrete, this is the ideal option. The most effective way to use the spray method - this way you avoid cold seams.

Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene have poor vapor permeability, therefore, it is necessary to use them to insulate houses from gas blocks in extreme cases.

Frame houses

With external insulation frame houses most often they use mineral wool (see photo). Experience shows that the price-quality ratio is the most acceptable. But the material is needed isolate from moisture and dew points. This is done using a vapor barrier and membrane film.

Despite the negative attitude of specialists towards polystyrene, homeowners very often use this material for insulation. Cheapness and the absence of the need for additional moisture, noise, and vapor barrier play a decisive role.

Warming of frame polyurethane foam by spraying also has many advantages. For frame houses, as well as for brick, foam concrete, this is an excellent option.

How much does it cost to sheathe a house with siding?

The final cost of insulation and siding of the facade depends on the price of materials and the cost of work. The cheapest insulation is foam. The price of siding depends on the manufacturer, the material from which it is made.

We will calculate the approximate cost based on average prices and panel sizes. Imagine that you want to sheathe a house with a facade area of \u200b\u200b63 sq.m. You will need the following materials:

• vinyl siding (3.85 x 0.231 m). 150 rubles × 80 pcs. \u003d 12 thousand rubles;
• waterproofing film (50 m.) - from 1600 rubles;
• mineral wool at a price of 1500 rubles / cubic meter m in total you need 9.45 cubic meters. m. 1500 × 9.45 \u003d 15 120 rubles;
• consumables (screws, slats, corners, etc.) - up to 15 thousand rubles;

The total cost of finishing will be RUB 43 720

When using the services of professionals, expect an average of RUB 1,500 per sq. m. Of course, depending on the qualifications of workers, the price in the price list can vary significantly.

Do-it-yourself cladding and insulation of the facade using the example of mineral wool

Consider the order of wall insulation with mineral wool and metal siding:

1. Preparing the walls. We clean the facade from cement smudges, metal pins, communications, drain pipes and other things. We seal up cracks and chips with cement mortar and apply an antifungal coating to those areas where there is mold.
2. Installation of horizontal battens. The step of the horizontal crate is determined by the width thermal insulation boards with a deduction of 2 cm (to ensure the required density when laying insulation). Use bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 50 mm.
3. Laying insulation boards. We put plates between the beams. They will hold due to the reduced pitch of the sheathing. One edge folds over the bar, and the other folds in for a good fit.
4. Waterproofing layer. Diffuse membrane with waterproofing properties we attach to the bars with construction clips.
5. Vertical lathing. This part of the lathing is fastened on a level. If there are irregularities, special pads can be made. It uses boards 25 mm thick.

Siding installation:

1. When inserting the siding into a special lock, do it smoothly, without pulling it, until it clicks. If there was no click, then the element is not fixed.
2. After fixing the profiles, fix the panels from the middle to the edges. Vinyl siding can be fastened with nails, screws, but always with galvanized hardware to avoid rusty streaks.
3. The fasteners must enter the panels strictly vertically, with a 1 mm gap between the surface and the head.
4. When the temperature changes, the panels will "walk", so there should be 5 - 8 mm gaps at the joints.

Durability and the efficiency of the insulation service and cladding completely depends on the selected material and competently carried out installation. Coziness and warmth to your home!

For many years, siding has remained the most common and convenient facing material. Its installation can be entrusted to professionals, or you can carry out insulation with your own hands.

The tool you need:

To work, you need to prepare a minimum set of tools, including:

• Hacksaw for metal.
• A hammer.
• Bulgarian.
• Roulette.
• Screwdriver.
• Level.
• Pliers.
• Galvanized nails, self-tapping screws and a press washer of medium length.

The main stages of house cladding with siding:

• Preparation... Before proceeding with the installation of the cladding, scaffolding is erected around the building. They are needed in order to be able to work at height. When constructing scaffolding, only new lumber should be used. Your safety will depend on their quality and reliability. Next, we move on to preparing surfaces. Before insulating the house from the outside with siding, we remove all the elements that may impede the installation of the frame (ebb, platbands, window sills, lamps, etc.). We putty cracks and crevices with silicone sealants, remove dust and crumbling plaster, and then prime the surface with a moisture-proof compound. Moisture-proof and antiseptic treatment is best done in the warm season. After applying the mixtures, the surface is dried. If timber scrap is to be faced, the facade should be additionally treated with a fire retardant primer.

• We mount the crate... For these purposes, wooden blocks or dry wood slats are perfect, you can also use a metal profile. We install the lathing with a step of 30-50 cm. The lathing step depends on the wind load and climatic characteristics of your region, the thickness and weight of the selected insulation material. It is recommended to use a metal crate if the house is to be faced with aerated block or brick. Compared to wood metal carcass more durable, characterized by a high degree of rigidity. With the help of suspensions, we make indents from the walls. We mount the profiles using anodized or galvanized fasteners. This will eliminate the risk of rusty stains on the siding in the future.
• Laying the vapor barrier... Insulated siding begins with the installation of a vapor barrier. With the help of special "fungi" or nails, we fix the vapor barrier film over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls of the house. This measure is necessary in order to create a barrier to the outside of warm air. The selected material should have sufficient tensile strength and tensile strength, be characterized by low vapor permeability, which will prevent the ingress of vapors into the created structure.
• Installation of thermal insulation... The insulation should have a thickness of at least the thickness of the beams, between which it is planned to lay it (about 35 cm). Mount thermal insulation material made on mastic or glue. On top, place a hydro-windproof membrane and secure it with a construction stapler. Do not forget about the arrangement of the ventilation gap. For these purposes, we attach 2 cm thick beams over the frame.

• Fastening siding... The installation of the cladding should begin with fastening the starter rail. To do this, draw the installation line, drive in nails on opposite edges of the wall and pull the thread between them. Using a level, we check the horizontal tension and draw a line. This will be the top level of the starting bar. The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. Each subsequent panel snaps into a special groove of the previous strip. Given the ability of siding to expand at elevated temperatures, during winter installation, we leave a gap of 5-10 mm between the panels. This measure will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material. We leave a gap between the end edge of the panel and J-profiles, corners and other accessories.

Important! Siding panels cannot be installed back to back. This can lead to deformation of the material. Also, you cannot fasten screws near the edge of the panel, as this can provoke its breakage.

Installation of accessories:

• Drainage systems... Sheathing the house with siding with insulation must necessarily provide for the installation of a drainage system. Moreover, this element can be installed even before the launch pad is attached. Drainages are installed around the perimeter of the house. The rigid construction of these elements simplifies the installation of the starter profile.
• Starting racks... After the drainage and starting rails are installed, we proceed to the installation of the panels. Snap the siding panel into the starting rail.

All subsequent elements are also put into the lock until they click. On blind wall structures, panels are installed up to the roof, those walls where there are windows, to the bottom of the window opening.

• Connecting and near-window strips... If the length of the panel is not enough for the entire wall, we join it with a connecting strip. An option is also possible in which the panels are joined with an overlap of 2.5-3 cm, while the joint is spaced apart. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe window opening, a section of the required length should be cut and installed using a near-window strip in the desired place.

• Corners... External corners are set from the sides and end of the house. During installation, make sure that the panels go into the corners by at least 10 mm, but do not rest against its walls.
• Finishing rails... Under the roof arch and where the walls begin to taper, we put finishing rails. The panels do not need to be attached to the finishing rail.
• Soffits... This element is necessary for filing the roof overhangs from below. The soffits are perforated, which allows natural circulation. Installation of these elements is carried out by analogy with the installation of panels, while the edges of the strip are tucked into the J-profile.

Warming and cladding a house with siding not only allows you to significantly save on heating costs, but also reliably protects the walls of the house from the negative effects of precipitation, extending its service life.

The climatic and weather conditions of our country predetermine the heating of all buildings and buildings in the cold season. It is quite understandable that every homeowner does everything to minimize costs during the heating season. Let's figure out how to insulate the wall of a house under siding in accordance with modern requirements and regulations.

House insulation technology under siding

Any construction project of a house or a country cottage intended for permanent residence, has a corresponding section with calculations, mineral wool or other facing material.

How to choose the right insulation

In order to insulate a house clad with siding with your own hands, we recommend using:

• Mineral wool is a material with a coarse-fiber structure. It is made from alloys of carbon materials. The main properties of mineral wool:
• high rates of thermal insulation;
• environmental Safety;
• incombustibility;
• durability.

Expanded polystyrene plates are a foam material.

Accordingly, it has the following features:

• burn (when polystyrene foam burns, a deadly suffocating gas is released);
• collapse;
• is a habitat for rodents.

Polyfoam is a plastic cellular foam material that has the following characteristics:

• low density;
• high heat-insulating and sound-insulating properties;
• not subject to decay and moisture.

Before you insulate the house and sheathe it with siding, you should decide on the choice of material, based on its quality indicators and your financial capabilities.

Remember that the right one!

It is worth considering: mineral wool is somewhat more expensive than expanded polystyrene plates and polystyrene foam.

It is important to remember: the primary task - how to insulate the house and sheathe it with siding - involves the competent installation of insulation and siding.

What additional materials to use

It is possible to sheathe the house with siding and insulate it only if the following materials are available:

• Metal or wooden profile for mounting the battens.
• One of the types of insulation: basalt based, fiberglass based.
• The membrane is diffusion.
• One of the types of siding: a) vinyl; b) metal; c) basement.
• Fasteners.

The main stages of the technology of house insulation under siding

The house can be insulated and sheathed with siding on your own after the materials are selected (based on the calculated data, financial capabilities and individual preferences) and all the necessary tools are available.

The instructions available to each manufacturer of insulation will help you do everything correctly.

So, you have already decided how to insulate the house for siding and will carry out external insulation of the walls of the house. Now you can start arranging the lathing.

Arrangement of lathing and insulation

The main stages of the installation of the lathing:

• Stuff the vertical crate, keeping a step of no more than 30 cm (see photo).

Attention: the wooden profile must be thoroughly dried - this will exclude its deformation and deformation of the siding panels.

• We fasten the profile with the help of special dowel nails.

Attention: all work on leveling the plane for installing siding is best done using a building level. The quality of the lathing and siding of the house depends on this.