Radish (Latin Raphanus sativus) - annual or biennial plants belonging to the group Sowing radish of the genus Radish of the Cabbage family, or Cruciferous. The name of the vegetable is radish from the Latin word radix, which means root. This is an early ripening garden crop, the leader among fast growing vegetables, it is very much in demand in the spring, since at this time only radish contains live vitamins that are so necessary for the body after winter.
In March, the last pumpkins and some typical winter vegetables such as cauliflower... You can also collect lettuce, parsley, turnips, arugula, spinach, kale, and herbs to dry. In March, as throughout the course of the year, you can devote to growing at home and harvesting shoots, starting with grain, seeds, dried, among which we find chickpeas, Greek hay, flax-seed, alfalfa, barley, mustard, lentils, millet and amaranth.
In March, you can collect. In March, depending on how you planted previously, you may be lucky enough to pick a salad from your ships, rocket, rosemary, parsley, cut salad, sage, and other evergreen herbs. It's time to prepare the pots for sowing new seedlings. Among the most suitable sown in pots in March are radishes, carrots, basil, zucchini, tomatoes, beans and green beans, but also small round eggplants, small peppers and hot peppers, cucumbers, potatoes and Jerusalem artichoke.
Vegetable radish - description
The radish plant is grown in many countries. It is a root vegetable with a diameter of 2.5 cm, covered with a thin skin of red, pink or white-pink color with a sharp taste due to the mustard oil contained in its pulp. The radish vegetable is a long day plant, for normal development it needs 13 hours of daylight. But the growing season is short, so you can grow a radish root crop throughout the season, planting it literally every week.
Works in the garden on the lunar calendar
Rural tradition is advisable to sow when the moon grows radishes, carrots, peas, parsley, lettuce, cutting lettuce, basil, watermelon, cucumbers, asparagus, cabbage, including cabbage, and zucchini. With the waxing moon, you can also transplant strawberries, potatoes, onions and lettuce. Use growing lunar daysto collect herbs and medicinal herbs to dry, and to collect carrots and radishes.
It is preferable to use lunar days to devote to sowing Jerusalem artichoke, radicchio, milk cuttings, beeta, celery, onions and indivi. It is also recommended to sow herbs and prune vines, apples and peri at this time. Onions, garlic, shallots and all bulbous vegetables should be picked when the moon is waning. They say that "September is warm and dry, it ripens in all fruits." Don't go knocking at the thought that you are about to pick up the last fruits of the hot season: winter is far away, and gardening can still satisfy us.
Planting radishes in open ground
When to plant radishes in the ground.
Radish seeds germinate at a temperature of 1-2 ºC, for normal development, the plant needs a temperature of 15-18 ºC, but no more, since too warm air with a lack of lighting (and at this time of the year the day is still short) only leads to the growth of tops, in while the root crop does not grow and coarsens. As soon as the soil thaws and warms up, the radish is planted in the ground. This usually occurs in mid-April, although in warm areas, early varieties of radishes are sown at the end of March.
While you are busy picking the best tomatoes among supermarket baskets, have you ever thought about nostalgia in your grandfather's garden? "Grinding" on the chin and wrists was guaranteed. If you also have a healthy passion for pallets and rakes, if you enjoy sniffing fingers that know about herbs, and if you pretend that zucchini know about zucchini, take a look at this rubric: it might serve you. Powered by your environment and your wallet.
For example, we could plant a radish during the rising moon. In the Land of the Levant, the Daikon type is cultivated, which can reach a weight of four kilograms and a length of one meter. Radish - annual plantso it can be sown even during the cold season as long as it can be frozen safely; He prefers a cool temperate climate and fear of drought.
Soil for radishes.
Growing radishes from seeds begins with soil preparation. The area where you plant radishes should be sunny at least in the first half of the day and closed from the wind. The optimal soil for radish is a loose, light soil of a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, the pH of which is in the range of 5.5-7.0 units. Too acidic soils must be limed before planting radishes.
From these fruits of the earth, you usually eat the root, pulp, crispy and pungent, due to essential oil; You can also use its leaves, if still fresh, by adding them to your salads. Beware of where you plant them, as combining with other vegetables can change its taste: for example, near watercress it tastes delicate, and cherry juice makes it even more pungent. It seems that during the time of Ancient Egypt, these vegetables were consumed raw along with delicious garlic cloves. A note to ladies and gentlemen: A radish mask is great for softening summer-tone stains!
It is good to sow radishes in the area intended for the future for growing tomatoes: you can sow radishes on it every week until May 20, collect a good harvest of root crops and at the same time prepare the soil on the site for growing tomatoes. Heavy and cold soils or poor sandy loam, if you want to grow radishes in them, you will have to dig up with humus at the rate of 2-3 kg per m². The soil for radishes is not fertilized with fresh manure.
Here's how you do it: you need to take a dozen radishes, cut them into pieces and leave them in a dish colander for half an hour, this operation is necessary to dehydrate them. Then blunt them and place the pulp on your face. After about half an hour, the pads can be rinsed with fresh water.
However, during the autumn moon, you could plant spinach. When you see the first leaves pluck from the ground, separate them, keeping the more developed ones. Later, when the seedlings have three leaflets, do a second thinning, leaving it every 6-8 centimeters. In autumn crops, harvesting takes place by taking 5-6 leaves outdoors and leaving the heart of the seedling until next spring. Be careful if you grab them when they are wet because they are very fragile.
You can plant radishes in the area where potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, beans were previously grown, and in the area where turnips, radishes, turnips, daikon, watercress, cabbage and horseradish grew good harvest do not grow radish. It is advisable to change the place for radishes every year, so that each time it has predecessors from a different family.
If cooked, unfortunately, loses most of these substances, then the advice, whenever possible, is to eat it raw; Of course, we are talking about small leaves and save. Since most of us know from the very early ageSpinach contains high amounts of iron but less black pepper, mint, rosemary, green radish, basil, rocket, and parsley. During their growth, be careful with the soil: it should be moderate, but constantly watered, as well as extirpated and stoned to remove weeds and ventilate; After a few weeks and two weeks before harvesting, move the soil near the collapsed collar to keep it protected from sunlight.
For spring sowing, the site is prepared in the fall: they dig up the soil to the depth of a shovel bayonet with compost or humus - then in the spring, just before sowing, the digging depth with the simultaneous application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers can be no more than 20 cm.
How to plant radishes in open ground.
Radish seeds are sown densely into grooves previously shed with water to a depth of 2 cm, observing the distance between the rows of 15-20 cm.The grooves are covered with loose soil, then the surface is compacted, but not watered, but the area is covered with a layer of peat or humus 2 cm thick. after five o'clock in the evening and until the morning, the bed is covered with a film before the seeds germinate. The germination time depends on the weather. In good, dry and sunny weather, the seeds can germinate as early as 3-4 days.
You will probably need a shovel to harvest fennel as they are firmly anchored to the ground thanks to a very deeply rooted radical. What you eat from this vegetable is a clump, a compact structure made up of all the fleshy, deciduous shells that are whitish, closely tied together around a tiny tapered stem. Do you know where the expression "to be infinite" comes from? This seems to stem from the habit of wineries back in the days of offering fennel clovers to those who came to buy their own wine.
At the development phase of the seedlings of the first leaf, they are thinned out, leaving a distance of 3-5 cm between the specimens.If you are a patient person, sow the seeds immediately at the specified distance so that you do not have to break through the seedlings later, because this procedure can damage the roots of the main seedlings, and they will develop worse, and as a result, their shooting may occur. When proper care growing radishes in open ground before harvest lasts 20-30 days.
However, no mention is made of wild fennel, otherwise called finocchina or fennel: it uses fresh or dried flowers, fruits or diacens, leaves or beards; In "pasta and sardine", a typical Sicilian dish, but especially Palermo, wild fennel leaves are one of the most important ingredients.
Finally, an alternative to "regular yogurt"! A culture that is not very popular in our country. it herbaceous plantwhich is grown as an annual, it can often be planted in the wilderness along roads, hills and mountains. It is a plant grown annually, and the vortex part is a root, usually red in color, although it does not actually fulfill this function. The varieties are different, they differ in root color, shape, size and ripening time. In the article we will give a detailed description of the cultivation of radishes, all the main aspects such as sowing, tillage and harvesting.
Planting radishes before winter.
We told you about the timing of spring sowing, and the planting of two-year-old winter radish is carried out at the end of autumn. Planting radishes in the fall is carried out after the start of frost - in mid or late November. For winter sowing not all varieties of radish are suitable, but varieties such as Yubileiny, Spartak, Mercado, Mayak, Carmen are able to germinate even at low temperatures. The preparation of the site for sowing is carried out at the end of summer: the soil is dug up and fertilized, adding half a bucket of humus or rotted compost to 1 m², 1 tablespoon of double superphosphate and potassium sulfate. After fertilization, the bed is covered with a film, pressing down its edges with stones or bricks so that the shelter is not blown away by the wind.
Before moving on to describing how to work on soil, it is good to understand what type of substrate is best for growing radishes. The most suitable soil for growing radishes is an average daily mixture and rich in organic matter. Avoid so-called asptic soils, which are too compact to allow proper root development. Avoid too weak organic and non-draining soils. When it comes to pH, there are no specific measures; neutral soils give the best results.
Order autumn sowing differs from the spring procedure in that in the fall the seeds are thrown into dry ground, and after covering the seeds, the garden bed is necessarily mulched with dry earth or peat, the surface is compacted and the area is covered with snow if it has already fallen. What is the advantage of winter sowing? The fact is that the harvest of the radish sown in the fall, you will receive next year two weeks earlier than the harvest of the radish sown next spring.
We now know the suitable soil, so we can move on to basic processing. They can be used depending on the size of the power plant or collectors. If you choose manual machining for small areas, you will use a shovel to remix the soil, including mature or fresh manure as needed.
The second treatment is refinement, it is a small mechanical stitching in order to eliminate any weeds and lubricate the plates, this process also allows the surface to be unified and new biological processes begin in the upper soil layer. Sowing radishes can start in January and February in a protected environment. It can be grown in a heated greenhouse, in a box or in a warm bed, given its very short biological cycle, it is almost never transplanted and then grown in final containers.
Radish care
How to grow radishes.
Outdoor care for radishes consists in watering, weeding and loosening the row spacings. If you put a layer of mulch on the garden bed after sowing, maintenance will not be tedious, but try to complete all maintenance procedures on time.
Watering the radish.
Radish is a moisture-loving culture, the optimum soil moisture for the normal development of its root crops should be about 80%, so you will have to water the site often, especially at first, otherwise the radish will be bitter. With insufficient watering, the plant shoots and roots do not develop. If watering is too frequent or heavy, the roots will crack. How to water a radish to achieve a good and high-quality harvest? If the spring is normal, with rains and thunderstorms, watering of radishes is carried out every day in the morning or after 17.00, but if the spring turns out to be dry, then the soil on the site will have to be moistened daily both in the morning and in the evening. It is especially necessary to strictly monitor the condition of the soil after the appearance of the first true leaf at the seedlings. Only on condition that the soil in the radish beds is always in a slightly damp state, you can grow juicy, tasty root crops.
If grown in containers, spread evenly over the spagles and then cover with a thin layer of soil. Then watered with a thin graft without sowing seeds. The containers should be kept at constant temperature and humidity until the plants have grown and, in many cases, especially for very early culturesuntil they are collected.
Planting radish in the field can be carried out 5-6 days after the last tillage. Sowing can be carried out in spaced rows of about 30 cm, seeds in an amount of 1-3 should be placed in a shallow bay made with the plantation. It is then covered with a thin layer of soil and watered.
Fertilizing radish.
On poor soils, you need to feed radishes twice during the growing season, for radishes growing on rich soils, one feeding is enough. Try not to overdo it with the nitrogen component, because in this case, the radish will spend all its vitality on growing tops, and the roots will be elongated and oversaturated with nitrates. How to fertilize radishes, what fertilizers can be applied to the soil without the risk of nourishing root crops with substances hazardous to human health? Here is a recipe for a balanced mixture of fertilizers that will help radishes form a healthy and juicy root crop: compost and humus, in the amount necessary for your soil, 10 g of potassium fertilizer and superphosphate, 10-15 g of nitrate, one and a half liters of ash. It is enough to apply only mineral fertilizers to the fertile soil.
Planting radishes in a box or directly at home requires subsequent monitoring and possible thinning if the seedlings are too thick, which allows the remaining plants to grow in better side... During growth, especially for ground radishes planted in the ground, manual dredging or a hoe must be used. Irrigation operations should always be carried out using water at room temperature, so as not to cause thermal changes in the roots, which could subsequently cause splitting and reduce the quality of crops.
Pests and diseases of radish
The main enemies of the radish are the cruciferous flea and the bear, the rest of the garden pests (aphids, wireworms, caterpillars) do not have time to greatly harm the radish due to its rapid growth. Cruciferous flea beetle is dangerous for radish precisely on early stage its development, since it is capable of destroying barely hatched defenseless seedlings in the entire area in a few days. When the seedlings get stronger, the flea is no longer afraid of them. How to process radish, so that the cruciferous flea doesn't bother him? To scare away the insect from young green leaves, the tops are sprayed with a solution of wood ash: 2 cups of fresh ash and 50 g of grated laundry soap dissolved in 10 l of water. You can just scatter the ash over the area. I must say that both of these methods are ineffective, and the most reliable protection from a flea - the construction of a shelter: metal arcuate supports are installed along the length of the entire bed, on which spunbond is thrown. Under this shelter, the radish breathes normally, the tops do not burn under the scorching rays of the sun, and most importantly, the harmful insect cruciferous flea, which destroys the crops of radish, does not penetrate under the spunbond. After the tops have grown, the shelter can be removed.
As already mentioned, radish has a very fast growing period, some varieties mature and are therefore ready to harvest in just twenty days. For selection, choose a good weather day, at least 4-5 days after the last deposition, so that the soil is moderately moist and allows easy retrieval of plants. To harvest the radish, proceed as follows: take the airy part of the plants a few inches from the collar and pull the plant out without tears, if the ground is loose enough, the root should come out smoothly.
Alternatively, if the soil is too compact, it is a good idea to use a shovel, placed about 20 cm from the plants, to lift the loaves to smooth out and loosen the blemishes, pull out the seedlings and arrange them for conservation. However, radishes are always consumed fresh as their shelf life is reduced.
Medvedka more often it harms early varieties of radish in the greenhouse, where it creeps up to warm in the spring. If you grow radishes in the open field, then this terrible enemy is unlikely to have time to cause great damage to your crop. And it's very hard to fight the bear.
What is the problem with radishes? Of the diseases, bacteriosis is dangerous for radish, manifested by premature yellowing of leaves, mucus and decay of root crops, keel, which is also determined primarily by yellow leaves, as well as by outgrowths and swellings on root crops, and a black leg, which affects plants even in the seedling stage, which is why their leaves turn yellow and curl and the stems turn black at the base. To avoid these problems, choose varieties that are resistant to diseases for growing, and observe the conditions of agricultural technology, and most importantly, remove diseased plants from the site in time. Keel can be fought by treating the soil around the plants with milk of lime (2 glasses of fluffy lime per 10 liters of water), the consumption is 1 liter of milk per plant. Instances affected by a black leg are treated 2-3 times with an interval of a week with infusion of onion peel (pour 20 g of peel with a liter of water and leave for a day).
In the past few years, fashion has taken on more and more legs, although this is more of a necessity and pastime than having a garden in your home, whether you have a garden or just a small terrace. But there are seasons like flowers and, above all, crescents and crescents. Our grandparents who cultivated so much told us and they still tell us to pay attention to these details because good growth The "fruit of the earth" can be highly influenced by the moment it is planted. So good, Moon, period, but also the amount of earth it has under its roots.
Radish processing.
Readers often ask questions about how to treat radishes from pests or how to treat radishes from diseases. It is undesirable to use pesticides in the fight against diseases and pests of rapidly ripening root crops if you are concerned about your health and the health of those who will eat this radish, therefore the best protection is compliance with all the rules of cultivation and care. If the recommendations described by us did not give a result, and it is necessary to take urgent radical measures, then you will have to process the radish from the black leg with a solution copper sulfate (1 tablespoon of the drug, 50 g of shavings of laundry soap per 10 liters of water), and treat bacteriosis by treating plants with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid. But we repeat: everything that you process the radish with, you will then eat.
Harvesting and storage of radishes
The radish does not ripen at the same time, therefore, when asked when to dig out the radish, we answer: you need to remove it selectively, as it ripens. Harvesting radishes is best done in the morning, overnight watering the garden plentifully. Having pulled out the roots, shake off the rest of the soil from them, cut off the tops not under the root crop itself, but at a distance of 2-3 cm from it, and do not cut off the roots at all. How much and how to store radishes? From long-term storage, even in the best conditions, radishes become bitter and flabby, so abandon plans to harvest this root vegetable, such as carrots or beets, especially since fresh juicy radishes can be grown at any time - not in the garden, so in greenhouse. The radish harvest removed by the described method is stored in plastic bags in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for about a week.
Types and varieties of radish
Radish varieties for open ground are divided according to the ripening period into ultra-early ripening, early-ripening, mid-ripening and late-ripening.
Ultra-early, or early ripening varieties of radish
ripen in 18-20 days. The most famous of them:
- – 18 days - the roots of this variety reach maturity during this period, they have juicy, tender pulp, cylindrical shape, deep pink color;
- – Firstborn - an ultra-early high-yielding hybrid that ripens in 16-18 days. Large, rounded dark red roots of this variety are resistant to shooting and cracking, their flesh is sweet and juicy.
Early maturing radish varieties
ripen in 20-30 days from the moment of germination, the best of which are:
- – Ilka - the yield of this variety is quite high, the roots are scarlet, rounded, weighing from 15 to 25 g, dense, juicy, the flesh is white and white-pink, the taste is medium-sharp, without bitterness. The variety is resistant to temperature drop, shooting, porosity or woody pulp;
- – French Breakfast - also a popular fruitful variety with long cylindrical dark red fruits, resistant to shooting, weighing up to 45 g with a rounded white tip. The pulp is juicy, without bitterness. Disadvantage: shoots out in extreme heat;
- – Sachs - this variety ripens in 23-27 days, the shape of the root crop is round, the color is bright red, the flesh is white, juicy, with a slightly pungent taste. The average weight of a root crop is 22 g. The variety is resistant to flowering, retains freshness for a long time;
- – White Fang - conical roots of this variety, original for radishes white ripen in 33-40 days, reaching a length of 12 cm and gaining weight up to 60 g. Juicy pulp, mild taste;
- – Heat Is a high-yielding variety that ripens in three weeks. Root crops are small, dark red, round, weighing up to 25 g. The flesh is white or white-pink, the taste is mild. The variety, despite the name, does not like heat, therefore, when grown in hot weather, it should be covered with a canopy.
Mid-season radish
ripens in 30-35 days. The best varieties this group are:
- – Vera - Stalk-resistant high-yielding variety with bright red roots of almost the same size, resistant to cracking;
- – Helios - a variety with yellow round root crops with a juicy pulp of a pleasant taste;
- – Quantum - a fruitful variety that ripens in 30 days with pinkish-raspberry roots of a delicate taste. During storage, it retains elasticity for a long time;
- – Zlata - ripens a maximum of 35 days after the emergence of seedlings. A yellow round root vegetable with dense, tender and juicy pulp reaches 18 g in weight;
- – Duro - one of the most popular and fruitful varieties with very large (up to 10 cm in diameter), round red roots weighing up to 40 g, which requires a more spacious planting in rows: the distance between specimens should be at least 10 cm.The variety is resistant to stalking, lingering and cracking of fruits, it is well stored.
To late-ripening radish varieties,
which take 36-45 days to ripen include:
- – Red giant - a productive variety with large cylindrical bright red fruits up to 14 cm long with a juicy white-pink flesh and a slightly pungent taste. Resistant to cruciferous flea beetles and bear, it is perfectly stored: in a container with sand it can be kept fresh for up to 4 months;
- – Ice icicle - a variety that is almost identical to the Red Giant, but only with white roots;
- – Champion - this high-yielding variety matures in 40 days. Its roots are crimson-red, large, elongated-rounded, weighing up to 20 g, the flesh is juicy, tender, but dense, pinkish-white in color, the taste is good. Root crops do not form voids, do not become flabby and soft for a long time;
- – Dungan - the roots of this cold-resistant variety have an elongated shape up to 15 cm long, reaching a mass of 45 to 80 g. The pulp is juicy, white, excellent taste;
- – Wurzburg-59 - a variety with large rounded raspberry roots with dense juicy pulp that retain their elasticity for a long time;
- – Rampoush - the ripening period of this variety is 35-45 days. Its roots are elongated, fusiform, the peel, like the pulp, is white. The taste is medium-sharp, without bitterness. The variety is resistant to shooting.
Late-ripening varieties are usually sown in the first decade of August.
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Each gardener in his work list has a crop, when growing, something is always wrong, something is wrong.
Among such crops, for many, radish is no exception.
The earliest ripening culture.
It seems that there is enough knowledge for growing radishes, but the harvest is still not happy - miserable tails will grow.
We decided to help correct the situation just for such gardeners.
We have collected all the most valuable information about the process of growing radish, checked it in our own garden, and now we are sharing our experience with great pleasure.
Preparing for planting radishes or what, where, when is required from the gardener?
Radish culture is cold-resistant. For cultivation, you can not allocate a separate area, but plant it in front of heat-loving plants.
First, before the time of planting the seedlings of the culture, the radish will have time to ripen.
And, secondly, you can use it as a lighthouse culture. For example, if you sow a radish on a plot of land where you plan to grow tomatoes in the future, you can even harvest several crops of radish, provided that you sow every week.
Thus, you and the land will be prepared for planting the next crop.
Seed preparation: how not to get lost in a huge selection? what to give preference to?
If this is not the first time you are sowing radish, then, of course, there are proven varieties that you prefer out of habit. But, if you are faced with the cultivation of this crop for the first time, or you decide to diversify your diet, the following information will be useful to you.
Almost always, and all cultivated crops have old proven varieties, and there are also newcomers, most often hybrids. Hybrids are characterized by high resistance to adverse factors, productivity, beautiful appearance, early maturity.
If you see F1 on the seed marking, it means that the seeds are hybrids in front of you.
If you do not know which seeds to give preference to: hybrids or varieties, then try both of them, at the end of such an experiment you will already know what you liked best.
First, you need to decide where and when you will sow radishes. With this in mind, please read the description carefully at the time of purchase.
Provided that you will grow radishes in greenhouses, you should choose varieties that are suitable for growing in greenhouses, and can also be grown year-round. Such varieties are not whimsical to lighting.
Do you want to get the earliest possible radish harvest? Then give preference to early maturing and ultra early maturing hybrids and varieties.
Often on the packaging of such seeds there is a designation: "16 days", "18 days". If the optimum temperature is 16-19 ° C, then the root crop will form within 18-22 days.
This is important to know! Early and ultra-early hybrids and varieties of root crops form very quickly. And after reaching 5 centimeters, they stop growing. This has long been genetically incorporated. Therefore, do not expect big fruits from such varieties. It is also important not to overexpose them in the beds, the roots will begin to grow stiff, become inedible, hollow.
If the sowing process is planned to be carried out with untreated seeds, then it is advisable to pre-calibrate and soak them before pecking.
Calibration can be carried out by sifting the seeds through a sieve with meshes of 2 millimeters, after which, leave the largest ones. It should be soaked for 1-3 days, so the germination period will be reduced and it will pass more amicably.
A little about the time when radishes usually ripen
A very important characteristic of the radish is its ripening period. Lovers of super early ripening varieties can be advised to pay attention to: "Early Red", "18 days", "Ultra early Red".
But, remember, if you read on the package that the ripening period is so many days, then this indicator is provided that the culture is grown at optimal temperatures (+15 - + 30 degrees).
If grown exclusively outdoors, then the temperature should be warm both day and night... Under other colder conditions, the cultivation of radish will be delayed.
It should also be mentioned that the size of the seeds directly affects the maturation of radish. The larger the seeds, the earlier the radish will grow.
Soil preparation: when to start? Anyway, should I start?
It is advisable to prepare the soil for sowing radishes in the fall. Before digging, add on 1 m2: about 50 grams of superphosphate, 15 grams of potash and salt and half a bucket of humus or decomposed compost.
If you did not prepare the soil in the fall, then the main thing is not to make a big mistake in the spring: never add fresh manure to the soil, from this the radish will be hollow inside. Top dressing is possible only with rotted organic matter.
Radishes are best grown on loose soil, on heavy soil, shooting is inevitable. If the soil is heavy, then you can add sand, compost, neutral peat to it.
Ideal pH acidity is 5.5-7.0. The soil is more acidic, it is advisable to forge it, or add ash, otherwise the fruits will be prone to keel disease (growths grow on the fruits).
Good precursors for radishes are beans, tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers.
If the bed is well prepared in advance, then the culture will not need further feeding. But, if you noticed that:
- The tops and root crops are poorly formed, and the leaves turn yellow, then it is necessary to feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizers. For example, it can be: infusion of dandelion with nettle, or infusion of ash (1 glass of ash per 10 liters of water).
- If the leaves look good, but the root crop does not set, then apply potash fertilizer.
How to organize the planting of radishes correctly?
Radish is a long day crop and is very cold hardy. Based on this, it is recommended to start sowing as early as possible. If the soil is protected, then you can start sowing already in the third decade of March.
If sowing is carried out under a film or in open ground, then from the second half of April, as soon as the soil allows. Alternatively, you can sow before winter.
Have radishes on the table all year round is possible only subject to the following sowing moments:
- After the first early sowing, the radishes can be sown on conveyor belts. whole yearthus getting fresh harvests continuously. To do this, you can sow the seeds immediately after the appearance of one or two true leaves in the radish of the previous sowing. This method of cultivation is possible for varieties resistant to flowering.
- If sowing is carried out in late May, or early June (you can sow after salad or onions on a feather), then it is desirable that the garden bed is well lit, but without the sun hitting it at noon. If you sow in permanent partial shade, then you will not grow radishes, but tops. It is advisable to close the garden bed, for the next 10 to 12 days, with a dark film (from 7 pm to 7-8 am). Thus, you will contribute to the development of not flowers, but root crops.
- When sowing in early July, it is also necessary to cover the bed with a film, and also make sure that the soil is sufficiently moistened.
- End of August - beginning of September: sowing can be carried out in greenhouses, they have already freed themselves from tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers by this time. Daylight hours are reduced, so there is no need for black film.
Radish germinates at a temperature of -1 ...- 2 ° C. The optimum temperature is + 15- + 18 ° С. If the temperatures are very high and there is also insufficient lighting, then the growth of tops will be inevitable, the root crop will coarsen. Seedlings can withstand frosts down to -4 ° C.
It should also be understood that if the seedlings can withstand a slight minus temperature, in other words, short-term frosts, this does not mean at all that the radish is growing at this time.
At cold temperatures, the growth of radish is inhibited - "sits and waits for the heat." Based on this factor, this crop is often grown in greenhouses, or under a film. Getting a predictable result in such conditions is more realistic.
Summer crops mature in about 20 days. Depending on the type of early maturity of the fruit, there is a different period of technical maturation. Most of them immediately shoot.
Another problem during summer cultivation is the cruciferous flea. The wetter the soil, the less likely these pests will appear. You can also keep seedlings under the lutralis.
Radish planting pattern: calculating the correct distance for a decent harvest
And yet, experience shows that a radish sown one seed at a time develops faster, and the likelihood that the plant will shoot an arrow is less than with the transplant option.
If you strictly adhere to the radish sowing scheme, then in the future the plant will develop correctly, the leaves will be able to take a horizontal position.
Sowing deeper is dangerous - the root crop may not start. The best option is sowing about 15 grams of seeds per 10 m2. Consider further for yourself: 1000 seeds weigh about 7-10 grams. Germination is maintained for five years.
It is interesting! Until recently, it was believed that those varieties in which root crops are transplanted with a round transfer calmly. In the presence of dense seedlings, it was often recommended to plant them. What was not said about varieties with long roots.
In these varieties, during transplantation, the root takes the main part, which is damaged. The result is a gnarled, twisted, deformed root crop. It is up to you to grow radishes from seedlings or immediately stick to the correct sowing scheme, but before making a decision, weigh the pros and cons of both methods.
Digging deeper, and the result is lower: planting depth
At any time of the year, the grooves should be shed abundantly before sowing radish seeds. The depth should not exceed 1 centimeter. After that, the grooves should be covered with loose earth.
If the sowing process is organized with an arrangement, then it will be very laborious. It can be accelerated and thus simplified by using a tape during planting. You can make it yourself, or you can buy it.
Proper care of radishes is the key to a generous harvest
Radish care is minimal - daily watering, especially in dry hot weather. If you try to grow radishes without moisture, then rest assured you won't succeed. It is enough to keep the radish without moisture for several days, and this will lead to improper development.
A sure sign that the radish grew with a lack of moisture is the hardness and bitterness of the root crop, the root crop is coarse and hollow, and the plant shoots quickly. Special picky radish for regular watering after the appearance of a real leaf, since it is at this time that the root crop begins to form.
Radish does not grow without moisture. But, you should not overdo it with watering, since waterlogging can lead to cracking of the root crop. It is advisable to adjust the watering frequency to the air temperature; if the weather is hot, water should be watered daily.
Radish culture is light-loving... But, if planting is done in early spring, then you can safely sow in partial shade of trees, until the leaves bloom.
Some gardeners also include loosening the soil and removing weeds as maintenance work. But, we would not advise you to do this, so as not to damage the root crop, which is formed almost on the surface.
And if you carried out the planting in the ground without weeds, then while the radish grows (25-30 days) with weeds, the sowing bed will not have time to overgrow.
It is advisable to sow radishes on fertilized soil. If you delve deeper into the school curriculum, you can recall that almost all root crops "prefer" potash fertilizers.
Radish is no exception. Top dressing, if necessary, should be organized from the same series. It is necessary to dilute urea with the calculation of 10 grams per bucket of water.
Pests, all the most effective methods of dealing
Pests are frequent guests of vegetable gardens. They also visit radishes, and these can be: cruciferous fleas, naked slugs, wireworms, scoops, garden earwigs, field bugs, midges.
By the way, the flea does not "perforate" wet leaves, it waits for them to dry out. It is especially rampant in dry, hot weather. The main thing is to save young shoots from the cruciferous flea. Then, when the foliage grows up, and there are moderately many flea beetles, then you can not worry - she will not have time to sit down.
Most effective methods pest control are considered folk remedies... You can save your radish culture from many pests by pre-treating the garden with tobacco dust or ash, or garlic infusion. You can also choose a good neighbor for your radish, he will then take care of decent protection.
Harvesting and proper storage
The crop is harvested selectively, at first already formed root crops are collected, and the rest remain to grow to technical ripeness. Root crops should be harvested when they reach medium size. Most often this is done in 2-3 approaches at intervals of 4-5 days.
Radish is poorly stored. Unless you store it in the refrigerator or in the cellar. To do this, it is advisable to put the roots in a plastic bag so that they do not shrink.
Cutting the tops is a prerequisite for good preservation. Uncut radish can only be stored for a few days.
Only some late-ripening varieties of root crops can lie in the cellar long time (up to four months) without losing quality.
If the roots are not harvested, then the radish in the ground can live up to two years. This also speaks of the frost resistance of this culture. But they do not harvest root crops, but rather, on the contrary, they also plant those gardeners who want to get seeds on their own.
Radish is pollinated most often crosswise, but there are cases of self-pollination. The flowers are collected in neat inflorescences, and the color depends entirely on the variety: white, pink, red, lilac, purple, lilac. The petals, like all crucifers, are criss-cross.
Considering the fact that every second gardener, who has even the smallest piece of land, tries to grow radishes, we deeply hope that all our above tips will definitely come in handy for you, and the radish harvest will delight you. And this ripeness record holder will open the season of abundance of the freshest vegetables.
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