Finishing the attic with plasterboard provides a flat surface for any type of decorative coating, allows you to lay insulation, soundproof and vapor barrier materials, gives you the opportunity to maneuver when laying communications.

Attic floor

• Water resistance - spaces under the roof often have high humidity, in such conditions it is better to use gypsum plasterboards reinforced with hybrid impregnation (GKLV - green);
• Fire resistance - non-combustible gypsum board with fiberglass filler (red marker) are suitable for protecting wooden roof rafters;
• Manufacturers produce a modified type of drywall with a combination of properties and qualities inherent in fire-resistant and water-repellent boards;
• Sound-absorbing characteristics are possessed by acoustic gypsum plasterboards.

Calculating the nominal load on the frame, take into account the weight of the gypsum board. A standard 12.5 mm plasterboard weighs approximately 10 kg. It is important to remember that specialized drywall analogs are of a larger mass.

The number of sheets required for cladding is calculated by dividing the area of \u200b\u200ball surfaces that are planned to be sheathed with material by the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet. It is advisable to make a small supply of drywall.

An example of an attic interior

Materials, fixtures and tools

Before sheathe the attic with plasterboard, perform a set of measures for the selection, acquisition and preparation of all supplies, devices and related tools for installation works:

• Composition for sealing joints - 3.5-4 liters of plasterboard will go for 10 m²;
• Putty knife;
• Reinforced material - GKL will take about 3 m for 10 m²;
• Perforated corner;
• Metal profiles - straight and angular;
• Suspensions;
• Hardware - self-tapping screws, screws, dowel-nails, rivets (it is better to use stainless steel grades so that rust spots do not form on the gypsum board);
• Pencil;
• Laser device or other analogue of a level - for marking and checking axes;
• Carbide drills;
• Universal wrench - frame assembly and sheet fastening;
• Roulette;
• Cutting tools for metal;
• Screwdriver different types and size;
• Crabs;
• Bulgarian - cutting the required sections of metal profiles;
• Saw on gypsum board;
• Drill with attachments.

Technological progress of work

Finishing the attic with plasterboard provides for the following stages:

• Preparation of the space of the attic type of premises for decoration - they empty the room, clean the bases, carry out work to eliminate leaks in the roof, check the reliability of the beams and rafters of the roofing system;
• Design and calculation work;
• Marking is carried out according to the drawings;
• Laying and routing of communication systems;
• Installation of plasterboard sheets;
• Corner protection;
• Preparation of surfaces for decorative finishing.

Facing plasterboard

Frame construction

The frame method is reliable, with its help they insulate attic floor dwellings. Installation of the frame is required:

• If the attic space is too large;
• If plasterboard sheets cannot be attached to the inner lining of the roof;
• If you are planning an interior project of a complex or non-standard configuration.

Attic surfaces have a complex-broken character of surfaces. Wall bases are perpendicular to the floor or inclined at different degrees. Installation of the frame in accordance with the level of the planes and accurate measurement of surfaces using a building level and a tape measure are the key to successful installation work on the construction of the frame. The better the frame is made, the longer the service life of the drywall.

Metal profiles are fixed according to the markings. Holes are drilled on the floor and ceiling, equal to the holes in the metal slats. The fastening is carried out directly by means of hardware and brackets with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m.

Suspended consoles or brackets are mounted along vertical axes. Then, along the vertical markings, vertical slats are attached to the guides along the perimeter and hangers.

Attic insulation

Algorithm for performing work on laying for cladding material insulation boards, air conditioning and communications systems:

• Fasteners for pipe hangers;
• Installation of main clamps;
• Laying of vapor barrier materials;
• Installation of holders (mushrooms) for insulation;
• Lighting wiring.

Attic floors are insulated:

• Mineral wool - rolled or tile;
• Styrofoam plates are a productive and popular material.

Stages of work

The insulation is laid loosely or fixed between the sections of the frame:

• On liquid nails;
• Adhesive composition;
• They are fixed with wooden slats or pieces of a profile - preferable for reliability and practicality.

In all cases, the laying is done so that there is a gap for air between the drywall and the insulation.

Vapor barrier products are sold in rolls. Therefore, the material is cut for ease of use, the pieces are overlapped, and fixed to the base using a specialized stapler.

The final layer of the entire structure is a moisture vapor barrier membrane.

Facing works

Attic spaces of irregular shape, may have defects in corners. The cladding begins with a solid sheet. The surfaces are sheathed from below, the side and front walls, then the roof slopes, openings and go to the corner joints, having previously completed the cut of the material.

Plasterboard sheets are installed in two ways:

• Vertically - with a step of 25-35 cm;
• Horizontally - with a step of 45-55 cm.

Install on metal carcass using a screwdriver. The hardware is fixed perpendicularly to the surface, embedding their heads into the material by a few millimeters.

Each new row of material is mounted in such a way that the seam lines do not continue the previous row. Gaps of 3-5 mm are made between the sheets.

With two-layer cladding, fastening is performed alternately. The first layer is fixed, then the second.

The decoration of windows, arches, doors is carried out along the perimeter of the opening.

The plasterboard ceiling is also mounted on a metal frame or tied to the load-bearing roof beams.

Simple and reliable

If it is difficult to install a solid board of drywall between the beveled ceiling base and the beam, the material is then cut into two pieces. To do this, an incision is made along the intended line, then broken by pressing along the notch line.

The partitions are placed perpendicular to the floor base, they are mounted with a profile step of 40-50 cm.

The holes for communications are made with a drill according to the markings; for this, a sheet of drywall is placed on a flat surface.

At the last stage of work, perform:

• Sealing seams and joints with putty;
• Fill gaps in openings and fixation points with sealant;
• Strengthens corners;
• Putting;
• All surfaces are primed.

Installation of plasterboard on rafter legs

This option is suitable for a small attic. For frameless cladding, plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 20 mm or more are required.

After making sure that the rafters are installed firmly and reliably, are not damaged by rodents, are not susceptible to mold and cracking, proceed to fixing the drywall sheets directly to the roof rafters.

On the wall surfaces, gypsum plasterboards are planted on a layer of glue. Self-tapping screws are also used for the ceiling. Height irregularities and differences are leveled with embedded slats.

Installation on a wooden frame

The moisture content of the wood used is allowed in the range from 15 to 40%. Wooden elements are pre-dried, treated with antiseptic preparations, fire retardants.

The parameters of the rails used are determined by the pitch of the rafters. With a step of 75-100 cm, elements with a section of 45x60 mm are used. The thickness of the gypsum boards used is also taken into account.

The lathing with wooden slats is made transversely to the rafters. Plasterboard plates are attached to them.

In contact with

Owners of large houses very often have such a room as an attic in their location. Its finish has certain nuances that can be solved very easily when working with drywall.

Finishing attic drywall will help you make an excellent repair yourself and get a beautiful and insulated room at the exit.

The attic is a rather non-standard room that has a sloping roof, as well as a lot of uneven corners. As a result, covering the attic floor requires prudence and prudence from a person. Of all the modern materials, it is drywall that is best suited for finishing this floor. With its help you can achieve:

• excellent appearance of the room;
• sheathe all uneven corners;
• sew up all elements of the attic floor with high quality;
• to mask all irregularities and defects of the floor;
• hide communications;
• create a variety of functional and decorative designs: niches, shelves, arches, etc.;
• align and insulate the room.

It is also worth noting that plasterboarding of the attic floor with plasterboard is quite feasible with your own hands. It will pass easily if certain rules are followed.

What calculations are needed

Finishing mansard the floor involves carrying out bulk work. Therefore, in order for the cladding to be of high quality, it is necessary to take into account certain nuances of this room:

• location. Since the attic is located on top floor, it makes sense to spend additional insulation premises;
• the presence of uneven corners;
• slope of the roof.

In order to take into account all the features of the attic floor, you need to draw up a drawing. It is composed as follows:

• measure the room;
• we apply the parameters of the attic on the paper;
• we indicate the attachment points of the frame, especially in the corners;
• we apply the places of passage of wires for additional lighting (if any).

Attic sheathing scheme

It should also be noted the dimensions of the plasterboard structures that are planned. Their parameters are applied to the paper: height, width and depth.
The drawing will help you calculate the exact amount of materials required for the job. In order for the materials to be exactly enough, 10% should be added to the final figure.

Materials and tools

Attic finishing drywall assumes that you have the following list of materials:

• plasterboard sheets:

Note! For the attic floor, use only moisture resistant sheets that will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

• metal or wood profiles;
• dowels and screws;
• insulation;
• putty;
• primer.

To carry out all the upcoming work, you will need the following tools:

• drill-screwdriver with a set of drills;
• puncher with goggles;
• building level;
• knife for cutting plasterboard boards;
• scissors for metal;
• tape measure with a pencil;
• a set of trowels;
• roller or brush.

With such a set of materials and tools, covering the attic with your own hands will pass "without a hitch."

Beginning of work

At the very beginning of the work, preparation should be carried out, which will allow you to quickly and efficiently complete the repair in the future. Preparatory stage includes the following procedures:

Warming

• clearing the floor from things and trash;
• purchase the required amount materials, as well as tools required for work;
• we carry out insulation of the room;
• on the ceiling and walls we apply the markings according to the previously drawn drawing.

Having done the above steps, you can simplify your work as much as possible during the installation of structures.

Warming the room

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to insulate the floor. The attic is a room under a roof, so it, especially in winter, can be much colder than the rest of the house. Therefore, before sheathing with plasterboard sheets, the attic is insulated.
You can use as insulation different materials:

Styrofoam, cotton wool, film

• styrofoam. It comes in different thicknesses: 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 mm. The thickness of the foam sheets should be chosen based on the temperature regime of the region of residence, the ventilation of the walls and roof. Their installation is very easy, so you will cope with insulation quickly. We seal the cracks between the plates with polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool. It is also very often used for warming attics. But it has certain disadvantages, among which carcinogenicity occupies an important place. Dust that forms during insulation is harmful to human health. Therefore, when working with mineral wool, you must adhere to safety measures. The thickness of the mineral wool can be from 20 to 200 mm;
• vapor-permeable film. It should be used when there is damage to the roof or walls. You need to fix it in such a way that the rough side of the film is facing you. This film just needs to be pulled between the rafters and fixed with a stapler. For a stronger hold, use thin wooden beams that are nailed along the rafters.

It should be noted that foam and mineral wool can also be used at the stage of installing the frame for gypsum plasterboards. In such a situation, they are inserted into the frame and then covered with sheets.
Note! During insulation, pay special attention to windows and doors, since it is here that drafts most often occur when there is poor-quality insulation with insulation.
In any situation, it is necessary that there are no gaps in the insulation. To seal the cracks remaining after insulation, you need to use foam (for insulation with foam) or the remnants of insulation (for insulation with mineral wool). After installing it, it is recommended to stretch a vapor-permeable film over the insulation (with the rough side inward for the movement of moisture towards the street). We fix the film with a stapler. Also, this film can be fixed with your own hands after the installation of the frame is completed, before fixing the drywall boards.

Installing the frame

On this stage a frame should be prepared for installing plasterboard boards. Sheets of material in the attic can be installed in the following ways:

Fastening to rafters

• to the rafters. It is used when the distance between adjacent rafters is 60–75 cm. It is considered the fastest and cheapest, but does not give perfect alignment of the sheathing, since the rafters themselves are uneven. Therefore, here it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of 25 mm;

• on wooden frame... In this case, to create the frame, you need to use specially processed wooden slats. It is allowed if the distance between the rafters is 60 cm. This method makes it possible to install insulation between the slats, which will improve the thermal insulation of the room. To level the surface, you can put lining under the slats;

Frameworks

Note! It is allowed to replace wooden slats with hat profiles. They must also be attached to the rafters. They can be used to achieve greater flexibility, but they eliminate the possibility of using an additional layer of thermal insulation.

• on a metal frame. Is considered the best option... Here the metal profiles are attached to ES hangers. With their help, you can easily level the surface. Usually the metal frame is installed on anchor bolts... We place the anchors so that the distance between the profiles does not exceed 50 cm.

In any case, first, the lathing is carried out along the perimeter (use the guides of the "UD" profile), and then the transverse jumpers (rack-mount profile "CD") or beams are mounted. This will stabilize the structure and make it more rigid.
The distance between the rafters depends on the type of insulation. For foam, this distance increases by 2-3 mm, and for mineral wool - by 5-7 cm.
During installation, you need to constantly check the level in order to end up with an even structure. Wiring must be carried out into the finished frame.

Plasterboard finishing

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, according to any of the above methods, it should be sheathed with sheets. Drywall in the attic should be started from the ceiling, and only then moved to the walls and only at the very end - to the slopes.
If you do not need to design structures with a load, you should use thin sheets. If there are niches and shelves, we take thicker slabs.
Sheathing takes place as follows:

Plasterboard sheathing

• first we attach solid sheets;
• then on the sheets we make markings and cut with a knife;
• we apply it to the attachment point and, if necessary, trim it so that it fits perfectly. This should be done especially in corners and places of sufficient curvature of the room;
• we attach the cut sheets to the frame with self-tapping screws. Here it is worth paying special attention to the immersion of self-tapping screws. They should fit into the material by 1-1.5 mm.

Note! Put the sheets in turn to make your work much easier.
When the cladding is completed, we proceed to the final finishing of the structure.

Final finishing

For the final finishing of the attic, the following operations should be performed:

Serpyanka processing of joints

• we process the joints with a serpyanka;
• we putty the fastening points of screws and serpyanka;
• we rub all the irregularities with sandpaper;
• we prime the entire structure with a deep penetration solution;
• apply the final layer of putty. It is applied very thinly.

After that, you can apply the final finish. Due to the properties of drywall, it can be painted, pasted over with wallpaper, decorated with decorative stucco molding, stylized as fake diamond etc. Therefore, you should choose a finishing option only based on your own preferences.
Following the instructions above, you can easily sheathe the attic floor of the house with your own hands. The main requirement is strict adherence to the stages of work and the use of quality materials. As a result, the attic will become a uniquely beautiful and warm space in your home.

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Decorating the attic with plasterboard in 6 steps or how to avoid the mistakes of beginners

12 December, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobby: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

I prepared this article for home craftsmen who want not only to sheathe the attic with drywall, but to do it right. Next, I will talk in detail about how the attic is finished with drywall. We'll also look at common beginner mistakes so you can avoid them.

Finishing technology

Sheathing of the attic with drywall can be conditionally divided into six main stages:

Stage 1: preparation of materials

First of all, for finishing the attic, you need to prepare drywall, and of two types:

• wall - will be needed for sheathing vertical and inclined planes. Its thickness must be at least 12.5 mm;
• ceiling - used, respectively, for covering the ceiling and sloped walls. Its thickness can be 8 or 9.5 mm.

It is advisable to use moisture-resistant drywall in the attic floor, since the level of humidity is often high here.

Since the GKL sheets will be mounted on the frame, it is also necessary to prepare parts for its assembly:

In addition, you need to prepare materials to putty drywall in the attic. To do this, you will need:

• deep penetration primer;
• reinforcing tape;
• starting putty;
• finishing putty (needed if the drywall surface will subsequently be painted).

Use polymer compounds as a finishing filler. Their price is slightly higher than gypsum putties, but they are easy to work with. In addition, these coatings are not afraid of moisture.

Stage 2: preparation of the attic and execution of markings

The attic decoration has a number of its own nuances, which also relate to the preparation of the room for decoration. A common mistake newcomers is that they do not pay enough attention to this operation. This leads to a number of negative consequences, in particular, the durability of the truss structure may even be reduced.

Preparing the attic consists in doing the following with your own hands:

1. wooden elements of the roof must be treated with an antiseptic impregnation that protects the wood from all kinds of biological influences. Instructions for working with antiseptic compounds are usually found on their packaging.

1. then the roof must be insulated using mineral mats or other thermal insulation material ... On the pages of our portal, I have repeatedly talked about the technology of attic insulation, so I will not repeat myself;
2. to prevent the insulation from picking up moisture, be sure to cover it with a vapor barrier membrane.

After preparing the room, you need to do the markup. Lack of detailed markup is also often a beginner's mistake. This will result in an uneven finish.

The marking process looks like this:

1. first of all, you need to decide on the location of the walls and ceiling. If the attic is large and high, the room can be made U-shaped, as shown in the diagram on the right.

If you want more space, you can make the so-called "broken walls", as shown in the diagram on the left;

1. then it is necessary to mark on the crate the location of the corners between vertical walls and inclined walls, as well as between inclined walls and horizontal flow. In fact, at this stage, the dimensions of the walls and ceiling are determined, on which the space of the room depends.

To do this, first mark the points on the opposite gables, then connect them with lines. For drawing lines, you can use a paint cord;

1. then the points on each pediment should be connected with lines. It is along them that the ceiling guides will be aligned.
   After applying them, make sure that the lines of the ceiling are not deviated from the horizontal and are on two gables in the same horizontal plane. To do this, you can pull the threads between them, and check their position with a level;
2. the junction lines of vertical and inclined walls should be transferred to the floor in the same vertical plane. To do this, using plumb lines, transfer several points to the floor, and then connect them with lines;
3. now mark the lines for the location of the PP profiles on the sloped walls and ceiling. To do this, mark the points on the gables in 60 cm increments, stepping back from the edge of the corners 10 cm, as shown in the diagram below;

1. then, using a paint cord, connect the points on opposite gables with lines. If the cord is not long enough, pull the rope between the points and mark it by hand;
2. on the obtained marking of the position of the PP profiles, the points of attachment of the suspensions should be indicated, taking into account the fact that the step between them should be 50 cm.

Stage 3: assembling the frame for the walls and ceiling

Now you can assemble the frame by marking. The instructions for doing this work look like this:

1. prepare guides according to the size of the lines on the gables, and then attach them using self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. In the process of attaching horizontal guides, be sure to check their position with a level;

1. then attach the vertical wall guides to the roof slopes. Use profiles designed for, as the posts will not be fastened with hangers;
2. now you need to fix the guides on the floor, aligning them with the markings;

1. then you should cut the racks along the height of the walls and then install them in 60 cm increments. The profiles must be fixed in the guides with self-tapping screws from above and below. In the process of attaching them, use a level;
2. now it is necessary to install the hangers for the ceiling profiles according to the marking using self-tapping screws;

In the photo - an example of installing a PP profile in a guide

1. after installing the hangers, prepare the ceiling profiles and insert them into the guides. If necessary, the profiles can be "built up" using a special extension cord;
2. now the profiles must be fixed in the hangers. The hardest part at this stage is aligning them. The fact is that the profiles bend under their own weight, especially if the span is long.

Beginners often don't pay enough attention to aligning profiles. As a result, the plasterboard finish of the attic floor is uneven, which is noticeable even with the naked eye.

Therefore, first fix the profiles that are extreme on the ceiling. To align them, pull along the twine, which should be at the same level with them. They will serve as beacons.

After installing the extreme profiles, pull the twines between them, i.e. place them across the rails, and set intermediate profiles along them;

1. install PP profiles for inclined walls in the same way;

1. then you need to attach the lintels to the profiles with a pitch of 50 mm, which will make the frame more rigid. You can make the jumpers yourself by cutting them off as shown in the diagram above. You can also use special crosses (crabs) for these purposes.

This completes the installation of the frame.

Stage 4: frame sheathing

So, with the most difficult stage of work, i.e. by assembling the frame on broken walls and ceiling, we figured it out. Now let's look at how to sheathe an attic with drywall. The essence of this operation is reduced to fastening the sheets with self-tapping screws.

Despite the fact that in general the process is quite simple, it contains a number of nuances:

• self-tapping screws must be installed at a distance of 250 millimeters from each other. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the self-tapping screw must be at least 10 millimeters;

• the caps of the screws must be deepened by about a millimeter, otherwise they will not allow the surface to be putty. At the same time, do not screw them in too deeply, because in this case, the caps will break through the cardboard and the sheet will no longer be fixed;

• the joints of the sheets should fall on the center of the profile. The presence of "hanging" seams will lead to cracking of the finish;
• cut the sheets so that the seams are located with the dressing, i.e. cruciform joints did not occur.

The fastening process itself is carried out without any difficulties. The only thing is that it is advisable to mount the sheets on the ceiling with an assistant, since they are oversized and quite heavy.

Stage 5: finishing the gables

The decoration of the gables resembles the plasterboard cladding of ordinary walls. This operation is performed in the following sequence:

1. step back 4 cm from the pediment and mark points on opposite sides on the ceiling and beveled walls. Then connect these points with lines;
2. project the resulting line onto the floor in a vertical plane using plumb lines;

1. immediately fix the wall guides on the ceiling and on the floor, aligning them along the marked lines;
2. install vertical NP profiles between the guides on the ceiling and floor, fixing them with self-tapping screws on the walls;
3. now step back 10 cm from the walls, and mark the pediment in the form of vertical lines with a step of 60 cm;

1. mark the location of the suspensions on the vertical lines. The vertical step should be 500 mm;
2. then install the hangers according to the markings;

1. as the length of the uprights will vary, measure the length of the lines on the wall. According to the data obtained, cut the rack profiles;
2. now insert the prepared joint venture profiles into the guides and secure with self-tapping screws in the hangers. In the process of attaching the stands, check their position with a level.

Assemble the frame on the second pediment in the same way. Then sheathe the gables with plasterboard, taking into account the above rules for installing gypsum board.

Stage 6: finishing the drywall

We can say that our drywall attic is ready. The only thing now is to reinforce the joints and prepare the surface for finishing... This is done as follows:

1. work should begin with jointing - cut off the chamfers with a sharp mounting knife from all non-rounded edges. The chamfer width should be about 5 mm. If the chamfer turns out to be uneven, there is nothing wrong with that;

1. now the surface of the drywall must be treated with a deep penetration primer. Apply the liquid to the walls and ceiling with a paint cleaner.

Treat hard-to-reach areas and seams with a paint brush. After the surface has dried, repeat the procedure;

1. after the soil has dried, the seams must be reinforced. To do this, the selected joint should be filled with a starting putty, applying the composition across the joint with a narrow spatula. After filling the joint with putty, level the surface - run the spatula along the joint.

Immediately apply reinforcement tape to the putty and cover it with another layer of putty. Level the surface with a spatula.

In this way, it is necessary to reinforce all existing joints;

1. while the putty dries, you need to putty the caps of the screws. To do this, put the putty on a narrow putty knife and simply run the tool over the cap;
2. after drying, the putty should be slightly cleaned with a spatula or even sandpaper so that irregularities do not interfere with further puttying;
3. then the treated surfaces must be cleaned of dust and covered with primer with a brush;

1. now you can start filling the walls and ceiling. Use a wide trowel for this job. Try to apply the filler gently and evenly to get a smooth surface.
   At this stage, glue the perforated corners to the outer corners to align and protect from chipping;
2. after the putty has dried, it must be sanded with sandpaper or mesh with P100-120 abrasive. For convenience, use a special jointer on which a mesh or skin is pulled;

Grinding is carried out in a circular motion. In this way, try to get rid of all serious irregularities that are on the surface;

1. upon completion of grinding, the surface must be cleaned of dust and primed according to the scheme described above;
2. if you plan to paint the ceiling of the attic made of plasterboard, then it must be covered with a thin layer of finishing putty. With its help, it is necessary to get rid of small irregularities and traces of grinding;
3. the putty surface must be carefully sanded with sandpaper with fine abrasive... To check the quality of the sanding, bring a bright lamp to the surface. If flaws are found, sanding must be continued, then the surface must be once again cleaned of dust and primed.

To divide the attic space into several rooms, you can install plasterboard partitions. They are installed according to the same principle as vertical walls. The only thing is that the space of the partition should be filled with mineral wool to provide sound insulation.

That's all the information on how to sheathe an attic with putty.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that finishing the attic with plasterboard has its own specifics, the work is quite simple. Therefore, you can deal with it without the help of specialists.

I advise you to watch another video in this article to consolidate the material received. If you have any questions regarding the finishing of the attic with drywall, you can contact me in the comments.

December 12, 2016

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