It is quite easy to sheathe a bathhouse inside with a clapboard with your own hands, there would be a desire and free time.
Someone might think - why sheathe it, because most baths are traditionally made of wood? What is the use of lining? And there is good.
In addition to giving beauty, the lining protects the walls of the bath from decay, when correct installation and good ventilation, naturally.
For independent work with this material, you need to know - what the lining is made of and how best to sheathe the bath with it.
Then you can get the expected result - a beautiful bath.
People who are close to construction, and even more so to carpentry, have probably heard about the frequent use of linden wood for a bath.
Why? Because this hardwood has a very porous wood structure.
Those who have worked with a linden tree, or at least have seen this tree, know that linden is very soft, but at the same time strong.
Although we note right away - you can sheathe the bath inside with any tree, but most often they use:
- Lipu. In the bath, it does not heat up as much as, for example, the same pine. The wood is pleasant to the touch and has a beautiful color and texture. Therefore, inside the bath, it can sheathe not only walls, but also shelves. Moreover, the shelves can even be completely made of it. But linden, with all its advantages, has one significant drawback - it is highly prone to rotting. Therefore, with a poorly arranged ventilation system in the bath, in conditions of high humidity, it quickly rots;
- Aspen. Aspen wood, in its properties, is similar to linden wood. There is no resin in it. But it is denser and more durable than linden, it resists rotting better. Few people know that in the old days, they tried to make the first crown of a log house from aspen. But aspen for these purposes must be properly dried, then it will acquire its unique properties;
- Pine. Despite the fact that pine is resinous and heats up strongly, eurolining from it is very common, due to its cheapness. You can use it, but it is better where there is no intense heat.
For example, you can sheathe a bath with clapboard like this: in a steam room - put linden on the shelf and benches, for the walls - take aspen, and everything else - sheathe with pine.
This option will be the most practical, although you can sheathe everything with one type of lining available to you.
Of course, decorating the bath with the help of lining with your own hands is not limited to using only these types of trees, you can take any.
You can sheathe the inside with your own hands and cedar, oak, walnut or mahogany, but the cost of these materials will be completely different.
Methods for mounting lining
Decorating a bath with clapboard can be done by hand in two types: with a vertical arrangement of the clapboard and horizontal.
Thanks to this, it does not rot, and its service life increases.
The statement is rather controversial. After all, when laying the lining horizontally with your own hands with a comb up, water will not accumulate there either.
And rotting generally depends on the correct ventilation device with your own hands inside the bath.
Therefore, there is a horizontal and even oblique arrangement of lining boards. True, with oblique plating, consumption increases.
Lathing and insulation
As a do-it-yourself crate, they use an ordinary wooden beam 5X5cm, as a rule, this is enough.
If the walls are even or have a slight curvature, then the bars are attached directly to the bath wall with nails or screws, and chips are placed in the right places for alignment.
If the walls have large drops, then it makes sense to use a drywall fixing system, only instead of profiles there will be a bar.
Thermal insulation materials can be used from the inside of the bath to further reduce thermal conductivity.
In this case, the best option would be basalt wool - a breathable and non-combustible material.
In this case, it is imperative to use a vapor barrier material, and this material is laid with your own hands on both sides of the insulation.
Foil is often used as the outer layer. It is fastened with a stapler to the crate with their own hands and sewn up with clapboard.
Work order
After purchasing the required amount of lining, it will be correct to bring it into the room with your own hands, which they plan to sheathe from the inside. If there is a package, then it is better to remove it.
So she should stay for a day or two. This is necessary in order for the humidity of the boards to match the humidity of the room. This will help to avoid deformation of the skin in the future.
The lathing is properly fastened with galvanized nails or screws, so that later they do not rust, and rusty spots do not appear on the surface of the lining.
In addition, if provided additional insulation baths, the walls are immediately covered with a layer of vapor barrier.
The material is placed with the rough side to the insulation! After that, they arrange the crate. If the horizontal arrangement of the lining is chosen, then the crate is beaten vertically and vice versa.
Any distance between the crate is taken, not less than a meter. In the case of using a heater - on its width.
The thermal insulation material is laid between the bars, it must sit tightly.
If you feel the need for additional fixation, then pull the polypropylene twine in several levels and fasten it with a stapler to the bars.
Then the insulation is covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The vapor barrier is placed with an overlap. After installing the boards, it is trimmed.
They begin to sheathe the bath inside from the corner. Then they move around the perimeter of the room.
If you plan to completely sheathe the room, then first of all, the ceiling is sewn up, then the walls, after them shelves and benches. The junction of the ceiling with the wall is covered with a plinth.
Setting the first, starting bar is very important. After all, the slightest deviation from the level, after finishing the entire wall, will be striking.
Vertical or horizontal planks are aligned using a regular building level or plumb line (vertical). If there is a laser level, then this the best way.
Attach the lining to nails, screws or clamps. The latter are preferable, but first things first.
The nails are striking obliquely, in the part of the groove that is closer to the wall. Screws in the same way if they are used instead of nails. However, this is not a very good way of fastening - the board may burst.
Another method of fastening is that the lining is nailed or screwed straight into the front, thickest area.
The nail or screw is sunk into the board and the place is covered with a special putty or pin.
Needless to say, such fastening methods are not very good.
If you need to replace a worn-out board, then disassembling the lining, there is a very high risk of breaking whole strips.
Fasteners with a cleaimer are much better, more convenient and practical. The kleimer is inserted into the groove and screwed to the crate.
Then a new bar is inserted and the process repeats.
In the case when it is necessary to disassemble the lining, the screws are unscrewed from the kleimers, the kleimer itself is removed, and the board, without any damage, is pulled out.
Finishing lining
You can sheathe the bath with clapboard and leave it as it is, or you can cover it with special means to protect it from moisture and give a beautiful shade to the clapboard.
Since this is a bathhouse, the set of tools for this is limited. After all, they are usually based on a solvent.
This means that when the temperature rises, harmful fumes will form inside the bath, and this, of course, will negatively affect health.
Therefore, special means are used on a harmless basis and with harmless components. In particular, beeswax is used.
It is converted into an emulsion, which makes it easy to apply to the material. Several layers of this emulsion are applied to the surface of the boards.
The wax is absorbed and provides protection against water penetration.
For better protection of the wood, the application of the wax emulsion is periodically repeated.
Euro lining is a modern finishing material that is popular in the process of bathing. General recommendations for the selection of Euro lining and the installation of material, according to building requirements, can be found in the article.
Features of bath cladding with eurolining
Note that the term "euro lining" does not mean that the material was manufactured at a European enterprise. Euro lining is boards that meet European quality standards. And the usual lining is a material that corresponds to domestic GOSTs.
In the first case, the requirements for the quality of raw materials are stricter. The wood for the lining is carefully selected, it is of the highest quality, and further surface treatment brings it to an ideal state.
This material is not in vain popular. In addition to naturalness and environmental friendliness, it has many more advantages: durability, excellent sound and heat insulation properties, aesthetic appearance, ease of installation.
The operational characteristics of the eurolining for the bath allow you to use its different types. This material is sheathed not only in the steam room, but also in auxiliary rooms. However, when purchasing euro lining for the washing department, dressing room and rest room, you must also take into account the specifics of these premises.
Selection of wood for bath cladding
Wooden Euro lining is of two types - from hardwood and conifers... The latter type is undesirable to use for covering the steam room due to the high content of resins, which, when heated, can burn the body.
Of deciduous wood, the following are especially popular:
- Linden... Has a pleasant odor, uniform color and low thermal conductivity, resistant to drying.
- Aspen... The smell is bitter, the wood is hard, durable and easy to handle.
- Alder... Due to the content of tannins, it is recommended for covering the steam room. It is hygroscopic and has a low thermal conductivity.
- Ash... It is characterized by a dense and elastic structure. Has a grayish texture.
- Birch tree... The texture of the material is bright. However, wood is not suitable for finishing rooms with high humidity. She can sheathe a dressing room or a rest room, having previously treated with antiseptics.
- Oak... Solid, dense and heavy wood. Of the shortcomings, one can single out, perhaps, the high cost.
Most commonly used:
- Larch... Very dense and water resistant wood. Practically does not rot. Disadvantages include difficult handling, prone to splitting and high thermal conductivity.
- Cedar... Plastic and soft material... It has an original structure, pleasant smell and is easy to process.
- Pine... Inexpensive and practically non-rotting wood. Differs in high thermal conductivity.
- Spruce... Good thermal insulation properties, but low moisture resistance.
Having picked up suitable material for finishing each room, do not forget about fasteners (clamps, nails). They must be galvanized to protect against corrosion.
Technology of finishing the bath with eurolining
The lining has a relatively deep groove-ridge connection. It also has an increased spike size. This technical solution is designed to provide effective ventilation and drainage to remove excess moisture. Therefore, this type of lining is a priority when choosing a wooden finishing material for a bath.
Preparation for cladding a bath with eurolining
Before starting the installation of the euro lining in the bath, you need to decide on the method of fastening. There are only two of them:
- Vertical... This arrangement allows you to visually enlarge the wall and provide a higher temperature. However, due to the influence of different temperatures at the top and bottom of the rail, the service life will be reduced. Because of these characteristics, it is recommended to sheathe a dry steam room in a sauna using this method.
- Horizontal... Placement assumes an even distribution of temperature over the rail. The vertical frame provides reliable ventilation. Some experts argue that this arrangement prevents the free flow of water and leads to early decay. This method is better suited for traditional Russian baths.
Before sheathing, the euro lining must be left indoors for several days to acclimatize.
Installation instructions for lathing for euro lining
The frame is built on the walls and ceiling. On this stage it is necessary to start laying wires in a metal hose or special corrugation. Only after summing up all the utilities do we proceed with the installation.
We carry it out in this order:
- We fix the suspensions on the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels 6 cm long. The distance between them should be no more than 0.4 meters. Otherwise, the structure will not be strong enough.
- We fix the timber on the suspensions with the help of self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long.If it is supposed to mount only the lining, then a rail with a cross section of 2 * 5 cm will be enough. additional elements you need to select a thicker timber.
- We check with the building level the evenness of the fixed elements of the crate.
- We process the frame with a fire retardant and antiseptic composition in several layers. We are waiting for complete drying.
- Laying insulating layers. The best option for insulation is mineral wool. For a tight joint with the crate, it must be cut into separate pieces, which will be a couple of centimeters wider than the recess. When installing, we squeeze them slightly.
- Best material for hydro and vapor barrier - aluminum foil. We fix it with a reflective surface inward.
- We fill the counter-lattice with strips 3-5 cm thick. It is necessary to provide a ventilation gap between the insulation and the casing.
Please note that the lathing must be filled in the opposite direction to the installation of the Euro lining. By combining them, you can make an original drawing on the wall from elements of finishing material. Also note that it is important to use strong and durable lumber for the installation of the structure. For this purpose, you can even use a slab or unplaned boards.
Features of fixing the euro lining in the bath
Do-it-yourself lining of a bath with eurolining begins from the ceiling. In order to fix the material correctly and quickly, we act in this order:
- We nail down the first detail on the ceiling opposite the door to the frame with a doboynik. For convenience, it is better to drill the grooves in advance.
- We install the rest of the elements close by placing them along the thorn-groove system.
- We fix the first segment on the wall from the corner using self-tapping screws. We deepen the caps of the screws into the base.
- We check every detail with a level.
- We put, if necessary, the cut pieces of Euro-lining in the slopes of the windows, resting them with one side against the strip of the window opening, and with the other against the lathing beam. The starting profile should be 1 cm thick or more.
- With a mixture of wood and PVA glue, we putty the grooves near the fasteners.
- We attach the platbands to the windows and doors.
- We process the lining with special protective compounds. It is undesirable to use chemical impregnations for the steam room. Therefore, we cover the lining here with a special oil to protect the wood from cracking. We saturate the lining in the washing room, dressing room and rest room with several layers of antiseptic and fire retardant.
It is advisable to leave a gap of 0.4-0.5 cm between the ends of the euro lining and the wall of the steam room, since the wood can deform due to high temperatures.
Please note that it is forbidden to sheathe the surface with wood near the stove. It is better to use non-combustible materials for this.
How to sheathe a bath with eurolining - look at the video:
Step-by-step instructions will help you understand the technological processes of finishing and sheathe the bath with Euro lining yourself. Adhering to general recommendations, you will be able to choose the right material, taking into account the specifics of each individual bath room. In this case, the finishing of the steam room will last more than one year and will retain its aesthetic appearance.
Sheathe the bath inside with clapboard - this is the best option for interior decoration this type of room.
The lining is ideal for the needs of a timber bath: it retains heat well, does not let steam through and fits organically into the style of the room.
The most important plus of the lining is that you do not need to invite experts to sheathe the walls - you can do it yourself.
To cope with the work correctly with your own hands, a video will help you, which reflects all the stages of work.
Before proceeding with wall cladding, you need to decide from which tree you want to see the interior decoration.
It is best to use a lining profile made of hardwood, because coniferous trees will emit fumes that are harmful to human health.
For clapboard cladding, you can choose the following types of hardwood: linden, oak, alder or birch.
Linden is distinguished by its high quality of heat retention, resistance to dampness and ease of processing.
Oak lining will be the most durable, and alder lining will have a slightly bitter smell when preparing a bath.
Birch will cost you the cheapest, but it has a low resistance to moisture, so you can only use it if the room is dry enough.
If the bath is not planned to be too hot, then you can turn your attention to coniferous trees: cedar, spruce, pine or larch.
Cedar will emit the least resin, besides this material is very beautiful and resistant to decay processes.
Spruce lining will best keep warm, and larch lining will have maximum resistance to moisture.
After you have decided on the material, you can tackle the device of the sheathing on the walls.
Before that, you need to decide how you will cover the bath from a bar from the inside with clapboard - you can do it horizontally, vertically or diagonally.
If you wish, you can sheathe the bathhouse by combining horizontal and vertical sheathing. The choice of direction depends on how exactly you need to place the crate on the walls.
For steam rooms of a bath from a bar, only a vertical type of clapboard is suitable, because if the boards are laid horizontally, then water will accumulate in the grooves.
The lathing is laid perpendicular to the future lining, observing a step of 50-60 cm. When choosing boards for lathing, pay attention to their thickness - it should exceed the insulation layer of the lining.
If the walls have irregularities, then you need to close them up from the inside by placing plywood or wooden planks down.
If the unevenness of the walls is too strong, then you can use the suspensions of the profile systems made for drywall. They are fixed on the walls with dowels, observing a step of about 40 cm.
To make the lathing even, it is better to use a building level when working - it will help to make the arrangement of the battens exactly vertical or horizontal.
Making a crate with your own hands, you can save a lot by using unplanned boards or a croaker - after all, no one will see this material anyway.
It is much more important to do the job correctly so that the crate is strong and reliable.
Bath insulation and cladding
Before you think about how to sheathe the bath with clapboard, you need to do the insulation of the building so that the heat is stored inside the walls.
Basalt wool is best suited for insulating the walls of a bath from a bar - it is resistant to high temperatures and their changes, and also has a composition of inorganic material that does not emit any harmful substances.
There is nothing difficult in laying it with your own hands, the most important thing is to observe basic safety measures and not touch the material with your bare hands, because basalt wool can cause severe skin irritation.
The slabs of cotton wool should be placed in the voids between the battens of the battens so that there are no cracks and gaps. otherwise, heat will go out very quickly through them, and you will not be able to make the bath hot enough.
After laying the basalt wool, you need to place a vapor barrier layer on top of it - you can use glassine or thin polyethylene sewn together for it.
Before laying the material, make sure that it is completely solid, otherwise it will not be able to perform its functions and will quickly begin to let moisture through.
It is necessary to correctly lay the material for vapor barrier in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom, so that the sheets overlap.
When it is placed, you need to glue the sheets with tape for better fixation.
Internal vapor barrier is a very important stage, because it will not only protect the bath from heat loss, but also keep the wiring intact, which can become damp if vapor barrier is neglected.
Before sheathing the bath with clapboard, you need to keep the material indoors for some time so that the boards adapt to the microclimate of the bath. After a day or two after that, you can start trimming.
It is very easy to lay the lining with your own hands - it immediately goes to bed without gaps. You can lay the material different ways, there are four of them, each has its own pros and cons.
Methods for laying lining
You can lay the lining using a clapboard - a metal clip that is put on the lining spike, and then attached to the lathing with a nail or self-tapping screw.
This method is good because a damaged board can be quickly and easily replaced with a new one.
It is best to use galvanized kleimers protected from rust for covering the bath, the same is the case with screws and nails.
Stainless materials will protect the walls of your bath from brown stains that may appear from the use of unsuitable materials.
The easiest way is to sheathe the walls with clapboard by driving nails directly into the spikes. In this case, the lining is directly nailed to the crate with galvanized nails.
This method is suitable for all types of material, except in cases where the stud is too thin and fragile, because in this case, chips and cracks may appear at the attachment points.
You can sheathe the walls in another similar way - by obliquely driving a nail into a thorn.
However, in this case, there is a great risk of damaging the walls and ceiling, therefore, if you are not a professional, it is better not to do such bath cladding with your own hands.
The through fastening method is strong, durable and reliable, but it has a significant disadvantage - the places and material of the fastening will be very noticeable, which creates an unattractive appearance of the bath.
It will be possible to seal the holes with a wooden pin, but it will not last long due to strong temperature changes.
First of all, they begin to sheathe the ceiling, securing the first lining strip opposite the entrance.
It is best to use a nail tool for hammering in nails. the lining is thin enough, and it will be inconvenient to do it with a hammer.
After the lining is fixed to the ceiling, you can move on to the walls, leaving a distance of 3-4 cm for air circulation.
The same gap should be left when clapboarding walls (between the wall and the material).
In order for the air to circulate more freely under the material, small strips need to be fixed on the crate. They are mounted perpendicular to the location of the lining.
You can see in stages how the ceiling and walls are sheathed with clapboard, you can on the video - it will help you do this work yourself.
After the lining is installed, it needs to be processed.
For this, wax or a special impregnation with a varnish composition is suitable - it will help protect the lining from moisture and extend its service life, as well as increase the aesthetic properties of wood, because after processing, the picture of the tree will be better visible.
The bath has an amazing healing effect. In this case, the material that is used for its interior decoration plays an important role. Ideal in this regard is a lining made of wood in view of its naturalness, ability to "breathe" and have a beneficial effect on the human body.
Lining is considered a popular solution for decorating a bath, as it is made of high quality wood, well dried and treated in a special way. Suitable for interior cladding of the steam room wooden lining... But in the rest of the rooms - dressing room, sink, rest room - you can use other types of it. The boards are versatile because they are suitable for floor, ceiling and wall finishes. The surface is perfectly flat and smooth, does not allow extraneous sounds, perfectly tolerates heat, as well as high humidity if soaked protective compound... Various communications and surface irregularities are successfully hidden under the lining. In addition, such cladding looks attractive and is considered ideal solution for a bath "under a log". Features of the choice of lining for a bath:- Linden. Such material is a priority, and our ancestors appreciated its quality. The tree does not react to the effects of water and steam, does not change its structure and color.
- Aspen. It is considered a good analogue of linden, since such a lining is indifferent to moisture and heat, but has a more democratic price. However, it is worth remembering the disadvantage of this species: latent rot may spread inside the wood.
- Cedar. The material is expensive, but also very high quality. Thanks to the cedar finish, the air in the steam room is filled with resinous substances, without emitting resin onto the surface, and an aromatherapy effect is created. It also heats up less than others. Be careful: on this moment there are many fakes of cedar lining on the market!
- Pine. The material is cheap due to the ability of wood to release resinous substances under the influence of steam and heat. Therefore, it is practically not used for a steam room, but it is an excellent solution for a dressing room and rest rooms.
Remember that the lining for the interior decoration of the bath should not contain knots and other defects, because such a structure contributes to the rapid heating of the surface, which can cause a burn.
- stapler with staples;
- jigsaw;
- puncher;
- drill with attachments;
- suspensions;
- measuring tool - plumb line, building level, mounting plumb line;
- hammer;
- screws 6 cm, wood screws - 3.5 and 7.5 cm, nails 2 cm;
- triangle.
In addition to the lining itself, prepare a heat-insulating material - mineral wool, a bar 4 by 5 cm, waterproofing material and a vapor barrier, for which PVC film has proven itself well. Since wood is sensitive to fluctuations in humidity, it must be kept indoors and adapted to the microclimate for 1-2 days.
- Use blocks that are thicker than the insulation material.
- Fasten the crate in the direction perpendicular to the installation of the lining, adhering to a step of 50-60 cm.
- In areas with unevenness, place spacers made from the same wood under the battens.
- When attaching the frame to walls built of bricks, stones or concrete blocks, screws and plastic dowels are used. For a wooden surface, galvanized self-tapping screws are suitable.
- Protect your body, hands, eyes with appropriate products to prevent the ingress of cotton wool.
- Place insulation mats in the spaces formed by the battens. They are positioned from bottom to top, tightly pressing each upper mat to the lower one.
- Make sure that there are no gaps and crevices, as they form cold bridges through which heat will escape.
- If necessary, trim the upper mats with a knife.
- If a log house was used in the construction of the bath, then it should be borne in mind that it is capable of precipitating. Therefore, it is better to carry out lining with clapboard after that, namely, after 1.5-2 years, in order to exclude deformation of the material.
- Structural elements that are made of wood must be treated with a protective antiseptic.
- First, horizontal slats should be attached over the vapor barrier, onto which the material will be fixed. We install them in 60 cm increments, controlling the horizontal position using a level.
- Make sure that the lining has adapted to the microclimate set in the bath and has been kept there for at least 24 hours. We start work from the most difficult-to-reach corner.
- Position the first plank so that the tenon is at the corner of the wall and the groove is facing you, in a vertical direction. Remember that it is the reference point for all fixed boards in a given row.
- The bar is fixed to the horizontal rail with screws so that their heads are completely closed after the decorative corner is installed. The clamps must be inserted into the protruding edge of the groove. Nail them to the slats.
- Insert each next board all the way into the groove of the lining, which is already fixed. To protect it from damage, adjust it with a mallet and fasten it to the rails with clamps.
- It is possible that the last board will have to be cut to fit the width. They fix it in the same way as the first.
- Attach all other material and baseboards to the sheathing. In addition, it is necessary to close up all corners with decorative corners using finishing nails that have a copper coating. Thanks to the small cap, such fasteners are invisible to the eye.
- To provide ventilation in the space under the cladding and protect the material from water, a gap of 10 millimeters should remain between the bottom end of the lining and the floor.
- When covering the bath, remember that in the sink and steam room, the lining should be processed in a special way before installation. But it is absolutely impossible to paint and varnish this material. To protect it from mold, black spots and insect attacks, a colorless, water-based antifungal composition is used. Pre-lining is sanded sandpaperto remove all roughness, so the impregnation will lay down more evenly.
And finally: remember about fire safety, for this, leave a gap between the chimney and the combustible material, which should be at least 25 cm.
Russia has long been famous for its Russian steam baths. In the old days, they were built from thick logs, which first absorbed moisture, and then slowly and evenly gave off steam. The buildings themselves were massive, kept warm for a long time, because the thicker the frame, the better the steam.
Modern steam rooms are arranged differently. Weight wooden parts reduced to the thickness of the upholstery board, heat loss is reduced due to the foil and insulation laid along the ceiling and walls. It is easy to heat such a bath, the fuel consumption is low. But it also cools down quickly, you have to maintain a constantly high temperature. Steam does not accumulate naturally along the walls, so it is generated with a steam generator. And the process of supplying steam itself has to be constantly monitored.
Varieties of material
Very important when doing. High quality board regulates humidity, protects against condensation and the spread of fungus. In addition, the wood is natural natural material, moreover, environmentally friendly and safe.
The lining is made of deciduous and coniferous species, so it is important to choose the type of wood before starting work.
Oak
Thanks to the tannins contained in oak wood, mold and rot will not appear in a bath upholstered with an oak board. Phytoncides that oak board releases when high temperatures, rid the room of pathogenic microbes and bacteria, as well as foreign odors. The air in the bath, upholstered with oak clapboard, is always healthy and fresh.
Linden
Soft and pliable linden wood is the best suited for the production of lining for a bath. It resists high humidity and high temperatures, has healing properties and fills the steam room with the pleasant aroma of fresh wood. Linden lining perfectly retains its original color after several years of operation in a hot steam room.
Aspen
Aspen easy to work with, has low thermal conductivity, water resistance, does not dry out and cracking. The choice of an aspen board for lining a bath allows you to extend its operation by long years... The only drawback of wood is the loss of natural color under the influence of temperature.
Alder
Alder wood, rich in tannins, protects the bath from the development of mold fungi, and provides air purification inside the room. When operating in a high-temperature mode, lining made of wood of this tree species releases substances that help stop the inflammatory processes of the body.
Advice!
From conifers, cedar, larch, pine and spruce are preferable for finishing the bath.
Cedar
Beautiful cedar wood is very durable and strong. Cedar lining will be used for a long time in the steam room and washing room. A pleasant smell, high antiseptic characteristics, ease of processing contribute to the widespread use of cedar cladding in the construction of baths and saunas.
Larch
The strength of larch is comparable to that of oak, and it is also difficult to work with. Lining made of this wood species is moisture resistant. It has low thermal conductivity and is not subject to decay. Has healing properties - with the help of its aroma depression is treated, calms down nervous system generally.
Pine
Pine lining can most often be found on sale, beautiful wood with a pleasant smell, but its use is limited to rooms in which the temperature does not exceed 20 C. This is due to the abundant resinification that occurs in wood at high temperatures. It is not recommended to use a pine board in the steam room. Similar recommendations for ate.
Classification
Highly decorative lining of the "Premium" class meets the requirements the most. The color and structure of such a board is uniform, there are practically no wood defects. The price of premium class material is high.
Class "A" lining is a little cheaper, but it already contains minor defects. It is better not to use material of classes "B" and "C" for facing the bath.
For adaptation, the lining is brought into the room 2-3 days before the start of work. Wooden bars are stuffed along the walls - this is a lathing for wall cladding. It is preferable to perform thermal insulation from foam glass. Seams are securely glued along the entire length with a special insulating tape.
On top of the foam glass, you can lay a layer of vapor barrier from any insulating films. In the absence of special materials, a simple thick black plastic wrap can be used.
Mounting methods
Now everything is prepared for installing the lining on the crate. It is necessary to cut wooden blanks of a certain length, while determining which of the three existing methods will place the planks on the wall.
There are three options in total:
- Horizontal, - it is characteristic to fix the frame vertically on the wall, cladding boards are laid strictly perpendicular to it;
- Vertical, - the bars are fixed horizontally, the facing panels are mounted vertically;
- Diagonal - the frame beam is packed diagonally, and in the finishing coating the lining strips are mounted perpendicular to the diagonal bars.
Installation principles
In practice, you can combine these methods, while improving the design of the finish.
It should be noted right away that only vertical and diagonal methods are used to cover the bath, while it is possible to avoid stagnation of moisture between the slats.
Fastening the sheathing to the frame is carried out by the following methods:
- Fastening using a cleaimer;
- By the method of oblique driving in a nail;
- By the method of direct driving in a nail;
- Through fastening of the lining.
On a note!
To prevent rust streaks on wood panels, you need to purchase galvanized steel metal fasteners.
Applying a zinc layer will enhance the water-repellent and anti-corrosion properties of fasteners.
- Wall cladding starts from the corner of the room.
- A spike is cut off at the first mounting strip, then it is installed in place. The board is fastened with a cleaimer.
- It is driven into the groove of the strip, with simultaneous fixation on the structure of the lathing. Cleamers must be installed on all battens of the battens.
- When installing the second and subsequent panels, the spike is inserted into the groove of the previous board and hammered to achieve a tighter connection. Each time it is necessary to fix the position of the lining by installing a cleaimer.
Note!
They try not to use the methods of direct and oblique nail driving in when decorating walls because of the holes from the nail heads, which spoil the appearance of the finished wall.
Summary
After finishing work on facing the bath, it is required to apply on the boards protective layer... Usually they are treated with wax. It is strictly forbidden to process the lining with solvents and abrasive powders. The protective coating needs to be renewed periodically.
Instructions on how to decorate a bathhouse with clapboard inside is on the video in this article.
