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Clapboard decoration is a solution close to ideal. Except for a couple of negative points. The steam, which is now generated with expensive steam generators and ovens, dissipates quickly and the air temperature drops. And it is not so easy to choose and lay the lining correctly. But for a real Russian master, nothing is impossible!
Choosing the necessary materials
Both methods, after washing, must be dried and polished in clean dry sawdust. Home slippers, what could be more comfortable? So download this free slipper template and print it here. This is for my feet, which are massive in size. Therefore, to edit it, you can make them shorter by cutting out a little from the middle of the sole. If you are cutting an inch, then also cut an inch along the side length. But at the end of the day, these are slippers and they have an elasticated upper so they are very flexible when it comes to sizing.
The need to finish the bath with clapboard
A real Russian bathhouse, which became famous in Russia, is an ordinary steam room in a bare log house without any decoration. This technology contributed to the long-term preservation of steam: heat-intensive massive walls did an excellent job. The log house absorbs moisture well and just gives it away over time.
But this design has significant disadvantages today. Firstly, logs, which were previously considered the most affordable material, now cost a lot of money. So, to destroy the building in such a merciless way is simply a pity. Secondly, in order to completely heat a mass of wet wood, it will take at least 4–5 hours, which is also not very convenient.
You can also use the slippers or shoes that suit you to create your own pattern, using ours as a guide. Now you need to trace and cut out the shapes. Then, for the top of the slipper, you will need two pieces of lining and two pieces of outer fabric. Now take one of your outer pieces and fold it in half of the right sides and sew a straight edge. This is your heel. Place one piece blinking, then place the top handle on top of it, top right. Then take the upper and attach it with the right side to the sole using the joystick grip and blinking.
Today's technologies for arranging a bath are significantly different from the old Russian ones. Now it is much more convenient to decorate the walls with clapboard, laid on insulation and foil. The consumption of heat energy is reduced, the warm-up time is reduced, the building remains presentable for longer.
Features of the choice of lining for a bath
Before sheathing the bath with clapboard, you need to understand the types of material. Not only the appearance of the building, but even the health-improving effect of visiting it depends on how competent the choice will be. Moreover, the type of wood, and the class, and even its profile are important.
Installation of linden lining
Start by pinning the center of the heel, then at the center of the toe, then at the center of the sides, so everything else is nicely aligned. Continue contacting, the edges are aligned, all around. Sew a straight stitch to the edge, then trim the edges. When you turn it inside out, it looks like you made an outdoor shoe.
Now we repeat with the padding for the same leg. Fold the top in half and buckle the heel along the straight hem. Lay the liner right side up, then attach the top liner to it, on the right side. This time sew most of the way with a straight stitch, but leave the base of the heel open, and sew at the beginning and end.
Lining for a bath: the choice of wood
Most manufacturers building materials uses both deciduous and coniferous species to create lining. After all, for different types premises are relevant different kinds lining. For couples, deciduous wood material is more suitable. And the recreation rooms are best finished with coniferous wood.
Among conifers used:
Choosing a lining for cladding
Now make sure your outer shoe is inside out. And the lining has the right side: fit the lining in the shoe and the pin on the heel with open seams. Secure the shoe hole completely. Sew on the edge with a straight stitch to the end, then trim the edge.
Now take the elastic and go through the hole in the heel lining to cut through the entire channel we just sewn. Pull it out the other side through the hole in the heel. Try it, see how long you need. Sew it together with a zig-zag stitching: insert it back into the body and secure the hole between the start and end points of the casing.
- Larch... Durable material with low thermal conductivity. It has a pleasant appearance, it is capable of emitting an unobtrusive smell of wood when heated strongly.
- Cedar... One of the most beautiful and valuable breeds. Such wood looks expensive and has antiseptic qualities.
- Spruce... Soft and easily processed wood. Spruce lining looks neat and attractive. In terms of strength, it is inferior to material from larch and oak, but it has a right to exist due to other positive qualities.
- Pine... The most commonly used material for lining. Since such wood is saturated with resins that are released when heated, it is better to lay it in a relaxation room with a lower temperature. Otherwise - high quality, great view, reasonable price.
Now pop open the hole in the heel lining. Insert your shoe insert: And close the hole. Raise the shoe into place. Finished and it feels so good! It was very easy to follow your photos and instructions. If anyone has a template would you be so kind to email me please.
The template link is at the end of the first sentence. Q: Is the seam allowance included in the curly parts or needs to be added. If enabled, what is the seam allowance? Finally, thank you for making this model available.
Popular among hardwoods:
- Oak... An expensive breed that has established itself as a durable and flexible material. A room sheathed with oak clapboard is less likely to be exposed to rot and mold. When the temperature rises, oak wood releases substances that kill pathogenic bacteria in significant quantities.
- Aspen... High performance material. Main advantages: ease of processing, presentable appearance, low thermal conductivity.
- Linden... Wood with a homogeneous structure and a pleasant smell. Linden lining is considered almost the most the best option for interior decoration baths. It retains its natural color even under extreme temperature fluctuations.
- Ash... It is characterized by less strength, but significantly better cut in terms of beauty. Moreover, ash material never cracks and has healing properties.
- Alder... Wood that is highly saturated with tannins. Thanks to them, the air in the bath will always be clean and fresh. In addition, unlike oak, alder is easy to process.
On a note! Successfully combining different types wood lining, it will be possible to create the most successful interior and a deep healing effect.
The template will actually run a little on the page. Your printer will most likely come to the page automatically. This white paper and videos show you how to secure your sauna foil, attach cedar sheathing to the interior of your studs, install your sauna heater, install sauna benches, hang your sauna door, and finish the trim and walkway. This article assumes that you have removed any plasterboard grating and are now covered with bare studs in the room and bare beams and permeable flooring on the ceiling.
Classes of lining for a bath
If it is easy and simple to decide on the type of wood, then it is somewhat more difficult to choose a lining of a suitable class. Having bought the cheapest material, it is easy to ruin the entire building, and too expensive does not always justify its cost. In order to avoid troubles due to the presence of chips, knots and other defects in the material, you should carefully read the following classification:
- Class "Premium", "Extra", "O"... Expensive, homogeneous wood without defects.
- Class "A"... Material with a homogeneous structure and the presence of 1 knot per 1.5 meters.
- Class "B"... Lining, allowing the presence of resin pockets, through cracks, more frequent knots.
- Class "C"... Very poor quality material. Not suitable for bath cladding, as it has a lot of defects.
Methods for mounting lining in the bath
Tile, cement and vinyl are suitable for impermeable floors. Plywood will work, but it's good to at least put some kind of tile under your sauna heater. Or water can accumulate anywhere. If you must go with plywood, be sure to apply it to the floors.
How to Build a Sauna: Connecting to Light
Conduct your room for lights, light switch, sauna heater cable duct and possibly outdoors. If you are preparing for a gas heater, then you are using a gas pipeline and you will have to consider the thickness of the pipe and how many other appliances are separating the gas pipeline. Contact your gas specialist.
Regardless of the type of lining installation, the boards are fastened to a frame made of wooden planks.
With regard to fastening methods, several different options can be distinguished:
- Horizontal... In this case, the frame bars are mounted vertically on the wall, and the strips themselves are perpendicular to them. That is, horizontally.
- Vertical... The method is the opposite of the previous one. The frame slats are installed horizontally, and the lining is attached to them in vertical rows.
- Diagonal... The frame consists of wooden planks, inclined to one side, and the lining, respectively, is mounted with a slope in the opposite direction.
On a note! The ideal mounting option for a bath is vertical or diagonal. In this case, the water from evaporation will not accumulate between the slats, but will drain freely. The speed of work and the final appearance of the room directly depend on how convenient the method of fastening the planks is.
How to build a sauna: insulation to reduce running costs
Fiberglass insulation is available in 16 "or 24" rolls. Insulation lowers your running costs by keeping the sauna in the sauna, so don't skip this step. And the sauna insulation will also provide a sound barrier, so you relax deeper for what it is, as well as good healthy sweat.
How to build a sauna: heat-reflecting foil
Attach the foil vapor barrier to all interior surfaces, i.e. wall and ceiling. Typically, we overlap the foil 3 inches, eliminating the need for foil tape.
There are 4 most common options:
- Through method... Most often used for shelves and seats. Since the self-tapping screw in this case is screwed directly into the bar, a hole remains on the surface, which significantly worsens the appearance of the coating.
- Clamp fastening... The most convenient and primitive. In this way, the easiest way is to make a high-quality aesthetic installation. Since the cleats are mounted to the frame bars, it is allowed to dismantle the lining without damaging the strips.
- Fastening by driving a nail directly into a thorn... Not suitable for every type of lining. The nail is driven in at a 90-degree angle into the spike that fits snugly against the crate. There is always a small risk of marriage, but it is insignificant compared to the next type.
- Oblique driving of a nail into the pot... The most difficult way that requires considerable skill and effort. It is used less often than others, because it often leads to marriage.
Instructions for decorating a bath with clapboard with your own hands
If the material was chosen correctly and the installation methods were studied properly, finishing the bath with clapboard will not be difficult. The fast-paced process is broken down into several primitive stages that even a beginner can do. First, preparatory work is carried out, then the crate is mounted, insulation and insulation are laid, at the end strips are attached and covered with protective equipment.
Also, don't substitute another foil product. The foil will never melt and is odorless. The vapor barrier protects your walls from vapor absorption. Some steam in a sauna is great for sweating, but it creates moisture that needs to be isolated from the rest of your home.
You want this steam to escape through the vent, some are absorbed by the cedar and eventually dry out. Of course, leaving your heater on longer will dry your sauna interior faster. For this reason, some sauna bathing suits retain their sauna heater.
Preparatory work before sheathing the bath with clapboard
Before finishing with clapboard, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces of the walls and ceilings. Deep depressions and bulges should certainly be leveled with plaster. It is equally important to treat all surfaces of the bath with an antifungal agent that saves the building from the appearance of pathogenic fungi. At this stage, it is also worthwhile to carry out all the necessary communications, which will later be hidden under the lining panels. The material itself is brought into the room 2 days before the start of installation, so that it matures and gets used to the climate.
On a note! Since the bath is a building with high humidity, any metal elements must be made of galvanized iron. Otherwise, there is a risk of rapid failure due to rust damage.
How to Build a Sauna: Cedar Panel
Start on one side of the ceiling and glue your cedar planks perpendicular to the joists. Move along the ceiling until you are covered. Cut a hole around the light box as needed. It is best if your light and switch are wet.
Then slide the clear cedar wood panels over the insulation and foil barrier. Fold your first row of wallboard tongue and groove onto your studs horizontally, tongue up, groove down. Start at the bottom and work your way up. Typically, you only need a tongue nail after it snuggles up against the previous row. Thus, the nail is hidden by the pair covering it. Vertical sheathing is possible, but vertical studs require either a plywood sheeting over the studs or horizontal vertical studs.
Installation of the frame under the lining in the bath
For the production of lathing, wooden bars of different sections are used, depending on the thickness of the insulation. The most commonly used option is a 20x50 bar. At the beginning of the process, the places for attaching metal suspensions are determined. As a rule, they are arranged in rows with an interval of 40 cm. The distance between the rows themselves should not be more than 50 cm. The hangers are mounted on dowels in pre-drilled holes.
The lathing bars are fixed on finished metal hangers, taking into account the future location of the lining. For vertical installation of the lining, the bars are installed horizontally, and vice versa. There should be a distance between the battens of the sheathing to facilitate normal air circulation.
Add your cedar planks in a row, checking the level on every fourth plank. Place the grooves over the tabs and continue up the wall. Along the way, you may need to cut electrical junction boxes for lights, switches, etc. this is the beauty of cedar, it is soft to work and easy to cut. Continue installing the panels until the insulated walls are closed. Remember that the last row that covers the ceiling doesn't have to be perfect. If you're a quarter of an inch, you're fine.
How to Build a Sauna: Centering the Sauna on the Wall
The trim details will cover any gaps.
How to Build a Sauna: Install Your Sauna Benches
It seems a little narrow to some, but the sauna idea is a small sauna door that keeps you warm. A rough opening here requires some spacers to seal our door. Get an assistant to keep your sauna and frame in place while you screw the frame. We like to use 5 '' galvanized deck screws to secure the sauna door. The same ones we use for the sauna bench.Insulation of lining in the bath
The lining of the bath inside with clapboard implies the mandatory presence of thermal insulation and vapor barrier. Insulation is tightly laid between the rows of the crate. For a bath, it is better to use foam glass - a material that copes well with soundproofing and heat-insulating functions in a humid environment. But the usual mineral wool is better left for rooms with more stable microclimatic conditions.
Since foam glass has universal properties, the vapor barrier layer does not need to be installed. For other types of insulation, this stage is mandatory. It is better to overlap the vapor barrier strips and secure them together with adhesive tape.
We make insulation and waterproofing
Of course, place the screws where it closes closed door... Insert 2 screws to hold the door in place and test it by opening and closing the door. Make sure your investigation is correct. Opening here means that the frame is flush with your outer wall so that your molding covers all gaps.
Once you get the hinged doorframe, check the box at the top and sides. You can fill any gaps with spacers and screw the rest of the door down. Once the door is hanging and plumb, you can put your handle on at a height that is comfortable for you.
Fixing the lining in the bath
The installation of the lining begins with cutting the planks of the required length. At the first plank, you need to cut off the spike, then carefully set it with a cut into the corner and fasten it. For easy and quick installation, you can use cleats by fixing them to the bar and fixing them to the crate. The new bar is installed with a spike in the groove of the previous one and slightly tapped with hammers for greater tightness. This algorithm is typical for all subsequent cladding.
At the final stage, the finished wall and ceiling covering is treated with wax or oil compounds to extend the service life of the lining. Protective layer it's worth updating from hour to hour. During the operation of the premises, it is not recommended to apply various solvents and abrasive substances to wood coatings. If over time one of the boards is damaged by any mechanical impact, it must be replaced immediately.
With our sauna doors, we also include self-closing bomber hinges with hinge pins and hinge pin. The hinge pins help ventilate the door so it closes on its own - making your sauna just heat up. The bomber hinge has holes that allow you to load the hinge more precisely.
Fiberglass coatings are made of plastic resins that have been treated with fine fiberglass filaments to increase strength and durability. Thanks to their non-porous, waterproof surface, these panels provide an alternative to low level serving traditional wood paneling or tiles in the bathroom. Due to the tough composition of fiberglass wall coverings, you will need a dedicated carbide tipped tool to cut through the panels and create clean, smooth edges.
For clarity, we suggest watching a video about decorating a bath with clapboard:
From this point on, the process can be considered complete. As you can see, the installation of the lining does not bode well for any difficult and lengthy stages. Of course, you will have to make an effort. But knowing how to sheathe a bathhouse with clapboard according to all the rules, you will be able to avoid the most stupid and ridiculous mistakes.
The selection of materials for interior decoration and the decoration of the bath and dressing room itself is a very important process that must be approached with all scrupulousness and responsibility. Your attention is invited step-by-step instruction on finishing the bath and dressing room with your own hands.
Wear safety glasses and a mask to protect your eyes and lungs while working. Transfer this measurement to a FRP sheet wall panels and mark the sheet you plan to cut on. Use a ruler to increase the mark across the entire surface of the sheet. This line helps ensure a level edge when cutting the panel.
Selection of wood species
Place the panel on the edge of a workbench or other flat surface. Position the panel so that the cutting line is located beyond the edge of the table. Cut the fiberglass panel using a circular saw with a carbide tipped blade, a metal cutting puzzle or a fine handle. When using a circular saw or jigsaw with a standard "cut" blade cut with back side panels; with a standard handle that cuts push or down, a stroke cut from the face of the panel.
Lining is a cladding panel. Whoever says anything, but the lining has been and remains for many years the best material in the decoration of the bath. With the help of the lining, two tasks are solved at once: insulation and wall decoration. Walls finished with clapboard always look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing. Among other things, the lining is incredible practical material... Thanks to the lining, the walls of the bath will "breathe", let the air through, thereby preventing the appearance of mold and mildew on the walls. The network has many photos and videos on decorating a bath with this particular material.
Choosing the necessary materials
For the bath and dressing room, wood material is used - lining. The most inexpensive wood material is pine lining, however, due to its resinousness, it will not work for a steam room. At a high temperature, pine lining will begin to emit resin and a pungent smell, because of this, there will be nothing to breathe in the steam room, plus you can burn yourself with streams of resin. Typically, hardwood is used for the steam room, and most often linden. Linden at high temperatures does not overheat, retains its light color, does not emit resin, has almost no perceptible odor, dries well and quickly, is durable. In addition, linden creates a special microclimate in the bath. The table below shows the materials for making the lining.
| Material | Description |
|---|---|
| Conifers | Conifers are characterized by high moisture resistance, however, it is better not to use such lining for finishing the steam room itself: the emitted resins can cause certain problems. It is believed that coniferous resins are good for humans. When inhaled, work is stimulated of cardio-vascular system, but in combination with high temperatures, such a combination will be extremely dangerous. In view of this, it is better to leave the needles for decorating the rest room - it fits perfectly here. As for specific breeds: - Pine. Has a high density, it stands out with an attractive golden hue and interesting ornaments; - cedar is an expensive option with a pronounced coniferous smell. It features a long service life, excellent texture and antiseptic properties; - spruce. Well suited for interior decoration of the bath. It has a neutral odor and an attractive appearance; - larch. Fills the air with substances beneficial to human health. The material is characterized by the highest resistance to moisture and the same density. |
| Hardwood | Most often, deciduous wood is used for the inner lining of the bath. Such lining is characterized by higher thermal insulation properties, which is an additional plus, and also helps to improve ventilation in the room and create the most healthy microclimate. For the manufacture of lining, wood of several species is used: - oak. Expensive, durable and durable. Among other advantages, the material is characterized by an expressive structure and, in general, has an attractive appearance; - Linden. This lining has a beautiful light honey tint that does not change over years service; - alder. Hygroscopic and beautiful material with antimicrobial properties; - ash. Quite dense wood, resistant to deformation and having an expressive pattern. |
The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with big amount knots heats up faster, can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.
| Class or grade | Description |
|---|---|
| Extra | Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even. |
| A or 1 | The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy bitch for 1 running meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ of the panel, blind - less than 9.5 cm long (the exit of cracks is directed to the end of the panel), which appeared during drying - no more than the width of the panel. Can be tarred and resin pockets 2 pcs. by 1 lm |
| B or 2 | There are many knots, of which there can be no more than 2 falling out. by 1 lm There can be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs. Per 1 lm) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for staining. |
| C or 3 | The quality is poor. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstering technical rooms or rough work. |
What absolutely cannot be used to decorate the steam room?
It is impossible to decorate the bath from the inside with linoleum, wood boards, chipboard, fiberboard, mineral wool, because they absorb moisture, are fire hazardous and their manufacturers often sin using harmful and toxic substances, the effect of which can increase significantly with a significant increase in humidity and temperature, which, in in turn, can negatively affect the sensations, comfort and health of the bath visitors.
However, all of the above materials are applicable for finishing the dressing room, since the temperature and humidity there are no longer so high.
We insulate the walls and ceiling in the bath
To make the steam room airtight, thermal insulation in it is performed using mineral insulation and aluminum foil. Foil is used to protect insulation from moisture and high temperature... The edges of the foil are secured with special tape. The film is definitely not suitable for these purposes, as it can deform or even melt.
The ceiling is made of boards 20-30 mm thick. The boards are fixed to the beams with nails. For ventilation, it is advisable to round the edges of the boards and leave small gaps.
Preparing walls for decoration
The technique of finishing the bath with clapboard is simple and, if desired, anyone can master it. The first step is to bring the lining into the bath, so that the material undergoes mandatory adaptation to the microclimate of the room. Then they begin to level the walls. After alignment, a crate is made.
You can, of course, without it, but the risk of getting wavy walls at the same time grows at times. For in order to fasten the lining to the walls without lathing, they must and must be perfectly flat.
Sheathe the walls
After all preparatory work proceed, in fact, to the wall cladding. Nails, as fasteners, in this case will not work here, because they are susceptible to corrosion and can then leave ugly stains and rusty streaks on the walls. The lining is cut to the height of the bath walls and attached to the crate or directly to the wall with special brackets or finish nails.
Steam room floor decoration
The very first thing to do when finishing the floor is to raise its level by 15-20 cm. This action is necessary for better heat conservation and protection from drafts. The floor in the bath is made of boards or ceramic tiles... Again, regular nails are not used here.
Video - how to sheathe a bathhouse inside with a clapboard with your own hands
Arrangement of a dressing room
The walls of the dressing room can be sheathed with clapboard or pine boards. In the dressing room the temperature will be lower than in the bathhouse itself, and thanks to this, pine wood will fill the air of the dressing room with phytoncides and a wonderful pleasant aroma of needles. The dressing room can have both a washing area and a relaxation area. In the washing area, the walls are finished with either tile or panels of fir, pine, spruce, cedar, and they usually put on the floor tile with non-slip surface.
