How to fold the fireplace correctly. Plaster over brickwork. Fireplace, backside against the wall.

Fire has always been in the service of man, and it still is. But in most devices, it is hidden from the human eye: it is located either in the bowels of heating boilers, or under the dishes on the kitchen stove. But the instinctive craving for open fire never disappeared in a person, and therefore there is a constant desire to build a fireplace in his home. Those people who know how to do this are master stove-makers, in the understanding of many people, have some kind of sacred knowledge that is inaccessible to a common man in the street, although in fact, the laws of physics and engineering are at the heart of arranging fireplaces. And, in principle, any person can comprehend this science - how to lay out a fireplace with his own hands. You just need a great desire and patience.

General information about fireplaces

The fireplace is essentially a stove, only its design is simplified. In most cases, it has an open firebox and its structure is less massive, so it accumulates heat much less than a stove. The chimney channel of the fireplace is straight and has no smoke circulation, the fuel burns faster than in the stove and a significant part of the heat escapes into the chimney. We can say that the fireplace has more decorative and aesthetic function than heating, but this does not diminish its merits in the least. An important advantage of a fireplace is the ability to very quickly heat a room with radiant heat from a burning flame. The large volume of oxygen that burns in the furnace contributes to the intake of fresh air, provided that the supply ventilation is properly organized. In rooms where a fireplace is periodically lit, it will always be dry and there will be no musty smell, even in the absence of the main heating system.

Open fireplace device

Before starting the arrangement of the fireplace, it will be useful to find out from which structural elements it consists, and their purpose. A cutaway diagram of the fireplace is shown in the figure.

• Toplivnik or a fireplace insert (3) - its main part, which is a niche made of refractory material - fireclay bricks. This is where fuel combustion takes place.
• Portal (5) - frames the firebox and serves as a decorative function.
• Under (2) - the lower part of the firebox is also made of refractory material.
• Grate (it is not visible in the diagram), serves to maintain fuel and supply air from below.
• Ash pan (1) is intended for collecting ash and is most often made in the form of a metal box.
• Pre-furnace site(12) limits the ingress of sparks from the firebox to the floor and is an element of the fireplace decor.
• The rear inclined part of the firebox (4) is also called mirror... Its task is to reflect heat from the firebox into the room. Mirror shapes smoke tooth (6), which is also called goose or smoke cornice.This important part of the fireplace prevents air mixing, soot formation and smoke penetration into the room.
• Hailo (7) or smoke box, collects combustion products from the firebox and transfers them through smoke mouth(9) and diversion (10) in chimney (11).
• Gate valve(8) or gateblocks the flow of cold air into the room from the street when the fireplace is not working, and also regulates the draft.

Fireplace fuel is usually not placed on pod and on a special fireplace grate so that there is access for fresh air from below.

Work on the construction of a fireplace should be divided into several successive stages.

Calculating the size of the fireplace

A fireplace is undoubtedly an interior item, but besides that, it must fulfill its main function - to heat the room and delight the owners with the opportunity to contemplate an open flame. But in determining the size of the fireplace, not only the imagination of the designer or the preferences of the owners should participate, but also a strict engineering calculation.

If you place too large a fireplace in a small room, then, firstly, when burning wood, it will burn a lot of oxygen, which will provoke strong drafts in the presence of forced ventilation, and, secondly, the amount of heat energy released will be excessive; in such a room it will be simply difficult to be with a burning fireplace.

The dimensions of the fireplace, the height and cross-section of the chimney are values \u200b\u200bobtained from engineering calculations. The technique of such calculations is rather complicated, but in a simplified form it can be presented as a set simple rules, by completing which you can build a fireplace that meets all the requirements of comfort and safety. Let's list these rules:

• The fireplace is installed in a room of a certain area, and heat energy is radiated from it through the area of \u200b\u200bthe combustion part, which is limited by the fireplace portal. The area of \u200b\u200bthe combustion part should be related to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room in a ratio of approximately 1:50. For example, you have a room with an area of \u200b\u200b20 m 2, in which you want to install a fireplace. The area of \u200b\u200bits combustion part should be 20 m 2/50 \u003d 0.4 m 2.
• After the area of \u200b\u200bthe portal is known, it is necessary to determine its dimensions: height and width. According to the rules, they should relate to each other in a 2: 3 ratio. According to the presented scheme, B / A \u003d 2/3. Choosing the height of the portal, you can find its width by the formula A \u003d 3 * B / 2. Let's give an example: let the height of the portal be 51 cm \u003d 0.51 m, then its width is B \u003d 3 * 0.51 / 2 \u003d 0.765 m \u003d 76.5 cm.Do not forget to check the conditions of the portal area: S \u003d A * B \u003d 0.51 * 0.765 \u003d 0.39 m 2, which is approximately equal to 0.4 m 2.
• The next important parameter is the depth of the firebox - C, which greatly affects the correct operation of the fireplace. According to the rules, it should be 2/3 of the height of the portal: C \u003d 2 * B / 3. Let's calculate the depth in our example C \u003d 2 * 0.51 / 3 \u003d 0.34 m \u003d 34 cm \u003d 340 mm. If this depth is increased, then the heat will freely fly out of the furnace into the chimney, and if it is reduced, then the combustion products will enter the room.
• The podium in front of the fireplace portal must protrude at a distance of at least 50 cm. This is done for fire safety purposes.
• On the sides of the portal, the protrusions should be at least 20-30 cm.
• The rear wall of the firebox should have a slope of 20-22 ° in relation to the vertical, and the slope should start from a third of the height.
• The side walls to reflect heat into the room should be located at an angle of 45-60 °.
• The chimney, when located near the ridge of the roof, must be at least 0.5 meters higher than it. In case of a different location of the chimney, it is necessary to follow the rules shown in the diagram.

• The total length of the chimney (from the grate to the pipe mouth) must not be less than 5 meters.
• If the total length of the chimney exceeds 10 meters, then the draft in the fireplace will be too great. Such a device will only "eat" firewood, but at the same time will not provide adequate heat transfer. In this case, various angular elements are provided that somewhat reduce traction.
• The cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe chimney must be less area fireplace furnace window by about 8 ÷ 15 times. The spread is shown too large, so it is recommended to calculate this parameter more accurately, especially since there is a special table for this.

The table below shows the dependence of the optimal ratio of the chimney area to the area of \u200b\u200bthe combustion window in percent.

Chimney height from the bottom of the fuel chamber (grate) to the mouth, m	Configuration of the cross-section of the inner channel of the chimney
	A circle	Square	Rectangle
5	11.2	12.4	13.2
6	10.5	11.6	12.3
7	10	11	11.7
8	9.5	10.5	11.2
9	9.1	10.1	10.6
10	8.7	9.7	10.2
11	8.9	9.4	9.8

It will be even easier to perform calculations if you use the calculator below.

Calculator for calculating the recommended cross-section of the chimney of a fireplace or stove with an open hearth

Specify the requested values \u200b\u200band click "CALCULATE THE DIMENSIONS OF THE CHIMNEY CHANNEL"

DIMENSIONS OF FIREPLACE HEATING WINDOW (or furnace with open hearth)

Width L, millimeters

Height h, millimeters

PLANNED CHIMNEY PARAMETERS

Height, meters (from the firebox to the head)

Channel section shape

For chimneys of round and square cross-section, the calculator will show the rhinestone the recommended size - diameter or side length, respectively (in millimeters). At the same time, do not forget to promptly, when entering data, indicate the section form in the appropriate field.

With a rectangle, it is somewhat more difficult, since there may be options with the length of the sides. Therefore, for these cases, the optimal sectional area (in square centimeters) will be indicated, which is then easy to bring to the linear parameters of the sides.

The final result is, of course, approximate, since almost always it is reduced to standard sizes brickwork or manufactured pipes for chimney ducts. Nevertheless, it will not give a serious mistake with the choice - there will always be an opportunity to stop at the option that is closest to the calculated value.

When building a fireplace yourself, it is best to choose a ready-made standard project for the available area of \u200b\u200bthe room. As a rule, in such developments, all the nuances are taken into account, and the proposed schemes themselves are designs already proven by practical work.

Choosing a location for the fireplace

The construction of a fireplace requires a lot of effort and investment of money, and so that all this does not go to waste, it must be properly placed in the room. To begin with, consider how a fireplace can generally be located:

• Fireplace built into the wall (A). such a structure is usually erected at the stage of building a house, or you will have to disassemble a section of the wall, which is very difficult. Such fireplaces have the advantage that they do not occupy the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room.
• A wall-mounted fireplace (B) will already require space for its placement.
• The corner fireplace (B) is very useful in square rooms.
• An island or free-standing fireplace (E) is very convenient to place in the geometric center of large rooms. His firebox may be open from one side, but there are modern fireplaces in which the firebox is open from two, three, and even fully open fireplaces.

Island fireplace - a modern and original solution

Now we will consider in what places the fireplace can be placed:

• It is better not to place a fireplace in rooms less than 12 m2.
• For any type of placement, the fireplace portal should be directed towards the center and there should be no obstacles along this path.
• The fireplace should not be placed on the path of air flow: between windows and doors, between two windows, etc.
• It is not necessary to place the fireplace on the path of people moving.
• Built-in, wall-mounted and corner fireplaces to the left and right of the fireplace must have a free wall space of at least 1 meter.
• The best place to place a fireplace is built-in or wall-mounted near the internal main walls of the room.

Materials for building a fireplace

The success of even a flawlessly folded fireplace will largely depend on the materials used in its construction. The main one is brick. When burning fuel in a fireplace, the temperature in its firebox can reach 900 ° C, which places high demands on the materials. Therefore, they use a special corpulent so-called oven brick, which can be of two types:

1. The red solid bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1000 ° C. In addition, it is very energy-intensive, it is able to receive, accumulate and distribute a large amount of thermal energy. The brick mark should be at least M200, the dimensions should not differ from the standard 250 * 120 * 65 mm by no more than 2 mm. When you hit a brick with a hammer, it should make a clear and sonorous sound.
2. Fireclay solid brick is used in places where the temperatures are highest and there is direct contact with fire. That is why the fireboxes of the fireplace are laid out with just such a brick. In its production, special dense chamotte clays are used, which make up about 70% of its composition. Fireclay bricks can withstand high temperatures for a long time, accumulate and transfer heat. The dimensions of fireclay bricks may differ from the standard ones, as can be seen from the table. Also produced fireclay bricks of a special shape for laying arches of fireplaces.

When choosing a brick, do not trust the assurances of the manufacturer and the seller that absolutely all bricks are of the same high quality. Each brick should be personally checked upon purchase. It will take a long time, but the result will be pleasing for many years. What you should pay attention to:

• You need to knock on the brick with a hammer. It should make a ringing sound, fireclay brick makes a more metallic sound.
• Actual dimensions should not differ from standard ones by more than 2 mm.
• Upon external examination, if films similar to mica were seen on the surface, this means that the temperature regime of brick firing was violated and should not be selected.
• The color of the brick, both red and fireclay, should be even over the entire surface. A good fireclay brick must have yellow-straw color and white indicates insufficient firing.
• When choosing, be sure to look at the split bricks from the same batch. Red brick should be free of foreign inclusions and darker areas. The internal structure of fireclay bricks should not be much darker than the external surface. With a strong blow with a hammer, the fireclay brick should split into large pieces.

The number of bricks is determined from the data of a specific project. Each fireplace project should include a calculation of the materials used. In this case, one must be guided by the fact that even half or a third of the brick should be considered whole when purchasing. The total number of bricks of each type should be 10% more of the calculated one, since there will be an inevitable battle.

In order to lay out a fireplace with your own hands, you will also need special fireplace equipment, which can be purchased in hardware stores or in the markets. Its dimensions are matched to the existing fireplace project. This equipment includes grate , ash pan and gate valve for the desired section of the chimney.

Masonry solutions for fireplaces

The usual cement-based masonry mortars are absolutely not suitable for laying fireplaces. The fact is that when exposed to high temperatures, all solids tend to expand. The expansion of the brick and the cement-sand mortar are different, therefore, inevitable cracks will appear, the bond of the mortar with the base will be broken and, in the end, such masonry will inevitably collapse.

The basis of masonry mortars for stoves and fireplaces is clay and sand - those materials that are contained in bricks. The percentage ratio of the components is not a constant value, it depends on the quality and fat content of the clay, so each time the composition of the solution is selected empirically. Cement can also be included in the composition of solutions, but its amount is relatively small.

• The solution should have a uniform structure throughout the volume, normal plasticity, and not have lumps. Only such a solution will have good adhesion to the brick, it will not crack when dry and the shrinkage will be moderate.
• A solution that is too greasy is the most tempting to use, since it is easy to level and apply, it is easier for them to make a thin and beautiful seam. But in the future these temptations will "come out sideways" - there will be a very large shrinkage.
• Skinny clay and solutions based on it are low-plastic, practically do not have any shrinkage, and later the seams from such solutions crack and spill out.

For masonry mortar, only clean fine sand is used, sifted through a sieve of 1.5 * 1.5 mm. The amount of sand in the solution is determined empirically by making several samples with different volumetric sand content. Experienced stove-makers immediately accurately determine the quality of the solution, and inexperienced ones can use the test. For this, a ball with a diameter of 5 cm from the solution in its raw state is placed between the boards and compressed.

Checking the plasticity of the solution, b - normal plasticity

• If cracks begin to appear almost immediately, then the solution is of low plasticity.
• If cracks appear during compression by 1/3 of their thickness, then plasticity is normal.
• If cracks begin to appear ½ and further, then the plasticity of the solution is excessive.

Video: Testing the solution

Every experienced stove-maker has his own know-how and secret recipes for preparing solutions, with which they are reluctant to share. To be honest, there are not very many chances for beginners to prepare the right solution right away. The best solution would be to use ready-made mixtures specially designed for laying fireplaces. In this case, the quality of the solution is guaranteed, provided that the manufacturer's instructions are strictly followed. It should be noted that the mixtures for laying the firebox and the outer walls of fireplaces and stoves may differ.

Required tools and accessories

For laying a fireplace, you will need a certain set of tools, some of which are typical, while others are special. So what you need:

• Pickaxe (A) - it is needed to split bricks.
• Kiln hammer (B) - also designed to split bricks, but the pickaxe makes it more accurate. It is also convenient to use a hammer to straighten bricks.
• Building rule (B) - it is convenient for them to align concrete base foundation, as well as control the correctness of the masonry.
• Wooden spatula (D) - will help a lot when grinding and mixing the solution.
• Building level (D) - to check the horizontal and vertical planes.
• A wet brush (E) - needed to clean surfaces from sand and dirt before laying, remove mortar, wet surfaces.
• Pliers (G) - needed to work with metal wire used in fastening furnace equipment and reinforcing masonry.
• Lead or zinc scribe (Z) - it is needed for marking tiled tiles.
• Stukalce (I) - needed for splitting tiled tiles. It is a piece of pipe that is used to hit a knife instead of a hammer.
• Scribe rod (K) - made of metal, intended for marking.
• File rasp (L) - needed to remove sagging from a brick when adjusting it.
• Square (M) - helps to check the correctness of the displayed corners.
• The plumb line (H) is the best tool for checking verticals.
• Rubber mallet (O) - needed when masonry to tap the brick on the mortar pad.
• Chisel (P) - can be useful for dismantling old masonry.
• A set of trowels (trowels) different sizes (R) - necessary for laying and leveling the mortar, removing its excess, filling cavities in the masonry.
• Embroidery ( FROM) - it is necessary to seal the inter-brick joints and give them a finished aesthetic look.

In addition, you will need a container for mixing the solution, a container with water for soaking bricks, a shovel or a construction mixer. A grinding wheel may be required to grind bricks.

In order to give the brick the desired shape, chamfer, round the corners, professionals use a stone cutting machine. But all these operations can be performed using angle grinder machines (grinders) and a disc on a stone for dry cut... The techniques are shown in the video.

Video: Techniques for working with a grinder for stone processing

For laying the upper rows of the fireplace, you will need a building platform, called "goats" or a pair of smaller tragus, on which the flooring of boards is laid. You can stand on this flooring and also place it next to necessary tool and materials.

Fireplace foundation equipment

Brick fireplaces are massive structures weighing over a ton. Therefore, if the bearing capacity of the floor in the house is not capable of carrying such loads, then the fireplace definitely needs a foundation. Experts recommend making a foundation for a fireplace even at the stage of building a house and not connecting it with the foundation of a house, since they perform different tasks and carry different loads.

For the equipment of the foundation it is necessary:

• Mark out the location of the fireplace and the place for the foundation, taking into account that the opening in the floor should be 15-20 cm wider than the fireplace structure.
• Dismantle flooring and the floor structure itself. If the floor is a thin concrete screed, remove it with a hammer drill or jackhammer.
• Dig a pit 50-60 cm deep, thoroughly clean the bottom.
• A layer of coarse sand 10-15 cm thick is poured into the bottom of the pit, then this layer is poured with water and rammed.
• A layer of rubble 10 cm is filled in, which is also rammed.
• A formwork from edged boards is installed. The dimensions of the foundation should be 5 cm larger than the dimensions of the fireplace. The upper edge of the boards is leveled at 140-150 under the level of the finished floor.
• The first layer of concrete mix is \u200b\u200bprepared in the proportion of cement / sand / crushed stone \u003d 1/3/4 and poured with concrete in a layer of 15 cm.
• On the first concrete layer, it is advisable to lay a mesh frame made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm with a step of 10 cm.
• The second layer is poured with cement sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3 and is leveled from above to the ends of the boards by the rule.

• Complete maturation of concrete occurs within 28 days. Periodically, the top of the foundation should be watered and covered with plastic wrap. This will prevent the concrete from cracking.
• A continuous row of bricks is laid on top of the concrete on a cement-sand mortar according to the scheme presented below for the 1st row. It is covered in two layers with roll waterproofing: roofing felt, Technoelast, Uniflex or another. On top of the waterproofing layer, another row of bricks is laid out (2nd row according to the scheme), which should go approximately to the level of the clean floor. When laying out these rows, it is necessary to especially monitor the correspondence of all sizes and the horizontalness of the surface.

Brick masonry fireplace

The corner fireplace proposed for construction with your own hands has quite simple designwhich is very good for a first independent experience. It is designed for rooms with an area of \u200b\u200b12-13 m2 with adjoining to brick main walls. For this fireplace you need 415-420 pcs. solid refractory bricks. Fireclay bricks can be used for the furnace part.

The facade and vertical section of the fireplace are shown in the drawing.

Before you start preparing the masonry solution, you need to carefully study the detailed ordering diagrams, which must be. Even the highest-class stove-makers do not hesitate to use orders. What do you need to prepare for laying?

• It is better to draw or print the ordering diagram on a large sheet of paper where you can mark the rows.
• For each row, bricks are selected - each must lie in its place. Those stones that have smooth and beautiful edges should be used for exterior decoration.
• According to the scheme, all the bricks are cut to size with a grinder or stone-cutting machine and brought to the desired size on a grinding wheel or grinding disc. All seams must be the same - 5 mm. It is best to use wooden slats of this thickness, which are laid between the rows. Calibrated battens can be found in modeler stores.
• This is how all the rows of the future fireplace are sequentially formed, which must be laid out "dry" right up to the beginning of the chimney. In this case, it is necessary to control the vertical and horizontal lines of all rows.
• Particular attention should be paid to the formation of an inclined rear wall - a mirror, so that its surface turns out with a smooth transition, as well as a transition in the smoke chamber.
• After the entire structure to the chimney is assembled "dry", it is disassembled, but before that each fitted brick is numbered on the surface and on the diagram, for example: 17-4, which means the 17th row, 4th brick. The rows are folded separately from each other.

This operation takes a very long time, but it is worth it, since during laying, an inexperienced master can spend a very long time adjusting the bricks.

Laying begins with the preparation of the solution. A self-prepared solution must be prepared in advance, and the dry mixture is prepared immediately before use according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

• The first two rows of the fireplace were laid out during the foundation stage.
• Before laying a brick, it must be soaked for a few minutes in a container with water until bubbles stop coming out of it. Dry brick will "pull" water out of the solution, reducing its strength.
• To form a seam of 5 mm, it is necessary to apply the mortar on the brick with a trowel with a layer of greater thickness 7-8 mm, and then, tapping with a rubber mallet, form the desired seam. If this does not work out, then the brick is removed, a new batch of mortar is applied and laid again.
• First, you need to lay out the extreme bricks, achieve their correct position horizontally and vertically, and then the internal bricks are already laid out on them. Control of the seam thickness can be done with a piece of wooden lath, and the horizontal position is checked by the building level. If necessary, the position of the brick is corrected with a rubber hammer.
• Areas indicated in the order in gray, represent cavities between bricks. They can be filled with sand, bricks or mortar.
• The ligation of the seams of the brickwork is already taken into account in the ordering diagram.
• Excess mortar after laying the brick is removed with a trowel, and then can be wiped with a brush and wiped off with a rag. It is very difficult to remove dried mortar from the brick surface.
• After 3-4 rows of bricks have been laid out, you can form smooth and beautiful joints between the bricks with jointing. Excess mortar is removed with a brush and cloth.
• The sixth and seventh rows of masonry form a niche for the ash pan and stops for the grate. If necessary, grooves are made in the brick for laying the lattice.
• Every few rows, the verticality of the structure is checked using a plumb line.

• From the 14th row, the formation of the slope of the rear part of the firebox begins. This should be given special attention. If necessary, lay the row "dry", make an exact fit, and then lay the masonry on the mortar.
• The metal corner for the portal lintel should be laid through an asbestos gasket.
• After laying the 19th row, you should immediately form a pillow from a cement-sand mortar 1: 3 on the surface of the "tooth".
• From the 19th row, the formation of the inclined wall of the smoke collector begins, which requires care and accuracy.

Putting the fireplace into operation

The finished fireplace cannot be started immediately, you need to give it time to dry. Usually 12-14 days are enough for this. In this case, all valves must be open. After this time, it is not immediately necessary to give the fireplace a large load, but to do it gradually, with a small amount of firewood. This will allow any residual moisture to evaporate from the mortar.

The fireplace model described above is successfully used in more than one house and has proven its worth. Therefore, if you strictly follow all the recommendations, then even in the absence of skills in everything, it should work out the first time. Well, if there is no self-confidence, then you can invite a master stove-maker and work with him as an apprentice. The acquired skills in a complex but interesting business - laying fireplaces will be simply invaluable and will certainly come in handy in later life.

Video: Building a brick fireplace

Video: Fireplace laying

The brick wood burning fireplace is the perfect combination of functionality, aesthetics and comfort. Judge for yourself: it perfectly heats the house, decorates the interior and creates a unique atmosphere of comfort. Therefore, it is not surprising that many are wondering: how to make a brick fireplace on their own and without unnecessary expenses? Of course, building a home with your own hands is not an easy task. But this is not a reason to immediately abandon such a bold idea - if you follow proven technology, use quality materials and be meticulous in every step of the implementation of the conceived project, you will definitely reach your goal. And our detailed step-by-step instruction and photos will help you get closer to her even faster.

Fireplace project: calculations, diagrams and drawings

The construction of any fireplace begins with a detailed development of the project - it will help to get a general idea of \u200b\u200bthe future design.

Brick fireplace project

The first step is to choose the location of the fireplace. The best options are a load-bearing facade or interior wall, or an angle between two load-bearing walls... And the most inappropriate places are in the area of \u200b\u200bthe staircase and between the windows.

Important! The dimensions of the firebox opening and the dimensions of the room should correlate as 1:50, the width and height of the hole as 2: 3, and its height and depth as 1: 2 or 2: 3. The last indicator needs to be given special attention: an overly deep firebox can provoke a decrease in heat transfer, and too small - smoke in the room.

Keep in mind that the area of \u200b\u200bthe chimney opening depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace opening: in order to guarantee high-quality draft, the area of \u200b\u200bthe first one should be 8-15 times less than the area of \u200b\u200bthe second.

Once the dimensions are determined, proceed with the preparation of the drawings of the facade and section of the hearth. Drawings are necessary in order to obtain an accurate image of the appearance of the fireplace, which can be guided by during the subsequent installation.

And the last stage in project development is drawing up a masonry scheme, which is also called ordering. Here you need to number all the rows of the structure and separately designate each of its elements.

Working materials

The durability and functionality of your fireplace will directly depend on how high quality materials you choose. Therefore, take the process as seriously as possible.

A red fire brick is used for the construction of the fireplace

In the first place, of course, brick. A solid red brick is best for a home fireplace. Material requirements:

• ideal surface without melted areas;
• saturated color;
• corners without the slightest chips;
• homogeneous structure in the fracture.

Remember that defective bricks can cause significant heat loss, which will reduce the efficiency of the fireplace.

In addition to brick, you will need a whole series supplies and products. In particular:

• sand with a grain size of no more than 1.5 mm;
• cement;
• clay: brown, Cambrian or dark red;
• wooden boards;
• crushed stone 3-6 mm;
• roofing material;
• felt;
• grate;
• protective screen;
• smoke damper.

We pass directly to the construction of the hearth. This process consists of three stages: pouring the foundation, laying the main structure and installing the chimney.

Arrangement of the foundation for the fireplace

Stage 1: Installation of the foundation

The standard laying of the foundation for the fireplace is as follows:

1. Dig a pit 60 cm deep. Fill it with rubble and tamp it so that the base is strictly horizontal.
2. Build the plank formwork. Sheathe the structure with roofing felt.
3. Assemble the formwork and fill it with broken brick and rubble.
4. Prepare the grout: mix one part cement and three parts sand. Thoroughly fill the pit with the resulting solution.
5. Level the foundation surface. Its level should be at least 5-6 cm below the floor level.
6. Cover the foundation with regular film and let it brew well - for at least a week.

For the subsequent laying of bricks, you need a clay mortar. You can easily do it yourself. First, you need to soak the clay for two to three days and, after the expiration of the period, filter it through a fine metal mesh. Next, it must be mixed with sand and water. Ratio: 8 parts of sand, 1 part of water, 8 parts of lean or 4 parts of oily clay. It is quite simple to check the quality of the composition: if it keeps its shape, does not stick to hands and resembles thick sour cream in its consistency, then you are not mistaken in the proportions.

Stage 2: Laying the fireplace

First, fix two layers of roofing material on the foundation - they will be responsible for waterproofing. Then calibrate the bricks.

Fireplace laying

It is recommended to start laying from the corners. The first row of bricks for maximum stability is best placed on a cement mortar. To give the hearth an original look, lay the bottom row on the edge, but all the rest are traditionally flat and already on a clay solution. After each new row, check the ordering diagram compiled earlier.

Important! Before laying, each individual brick must be lowered into plain water for at least a minute so that air can escape from it. If you neglect this rule, bricks will draw moisture from the clay mortar, and this will provoke a low strength of the masonry.

Excess mortar when laying the outer rows can be removed with a trowel, and when laying the firebox and smoke collector - manually with a damp cloth, carefully checking the composition for the presence of small stones.

So that the bricks form the necessary monolithic structure, be sure to bandage the seams on half a brick in each row. The optimum seam thickness is up to 5 mm.

Council. To make the masonry of the curved vault as aesthetically pleasing as possible, use temporary formwork - it was circling.

Stage 3: Installation of the chimney

Arrangement of a chimney is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a fireplace, since it is the quality of this work that determines the level of the hearth's draft and, consequently, the likelihood of carbon monoxide entering the heated room. Thus, a good chimney is a guarantee of your safety.

Up to the roof, the chimney can be laid with clay mortar, and above it with cement. The inner walls of the structure must be treated with a liquid clay composition: take a rag, moisten it in the solution and wipe all the walls - this will get rid of cracks and get a smooth surface.

Brick fireplace with chimney

It is important to protect the structure from high temperatures in the overlap area. To do this, you can perform fluffing - a special expansion of the pipe. For maximum effect, it should be overlaid with felt, previously moistened with clay composition. And to protect the chimney from precipitation, over the roof you need to make an overflow - the so-called "otter".

If you want to facilitate the work of installing the chimney, use special pipes designed specifically for chimney shafts.

Finishing the fireplace

If the masonry is made with high quality, and the brick pleases with color and texture, it is absolutely not necessary to perform the finishing cladding - you can limit yourself only to careful processing of the joints with grout. But if you want to make your hearth even more perfect, pay attention to the most popular options for decorating it:

• decorative plaster;
• a rock;
• concrete imitating natural wood;
• tile;
• decorative brick;
• tiles.

Fireplace made of bricks on wood

The choice of material for facing directly depends on what you want to get as a result. For example, if you need a solid and sophisticated fireplace for a classic interior, choose expensive natural materials: travertine or marble - such facing will make your hearth not only attractive, but truly luxurious.

A simpler, but also stylish option - fireplace trim artificial stone or tiles with partially visible brickwork.

Of course, it is not necessary to stop at one facing - it can be supplemented with all kinds of decorative glass, wood, metal or cast iron sculptures.

We hope our instructions will help you make your dream - a wood-burning brick fireplace - a reality. Adhering to simple recommendations, you will definitely get a high-quality home that will delight you with warmth, beauty and comfort for more than one year.

DIY brick fireplace: video

Construction of a brick fireplace: photo

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Installation of fireplaces in country houses, cottages, cottages in last years is becoming more and more popular. In appearance, the fireplace looks like a deep niche in the wall, equipped with a chimney for removing carbon monoxide gases. The structure mainly serves decorative element interior capable of decorating even the most modest room with its stunning view and creating a feeling of special coziness and comfort.

The fireplace can provide additional warmth in winter. In order for the heat obtained from burning wood to heat the room, you need to design the fuel chamber not too deep, but wide enough. Mostly wall structures are being erected. The ideal place to install a fireplace is the corner of the room. The structure is never installed against a wall with windows or opposite windows.

Building materials for fireplaces

To build a real wood-burning fireplace, you need durable and most durable materials. These materials include sandstone, marble and brick. Imitation fireplace- a false fireplace can be built from lighter materials - drywall, polyurethane, wood. When building a traditional fireplace, preference is mainly given to refractory and red bricks. Standard brick shapes make planning and laying much easier.

The work uses whole brick, halves and quarters... The compiled order will help to correctly calculate the amount required material, which will significantly reduce financial costs. It should also be said that brick fireplaces with high-quality masonry you can practically not decorate. The material used always looks beautiful and can decorate any interior.

We build a fireplace ourselves

If you follow the instructions below, then in the near future your home will be decorated with a real miracle fireplace.

The order of work:

1. Sketching sketches of the future structure.
2. The choice of building materials.
3. Bricklaying fireplace.
4. Chimney installation.
5. Installation of metal elements.
6. Decorative finishing.

Sketching sketches of the future structure

Everything construction works start with designing, regardless of whether you are building a fireplace in an existing building or during the construction of a house. For drawing up a project, graph paper or sheets in a cage are best suited.

First of all, you need to calculate the depth of the firebox, the height of the smoke collector, the angle of the side walls of the furnace, the height of the constriction for the smoke to exit into the smoke collector. If you intend to install round pipe, then the dimensions of its section may be smaller than when installing a rectangular or square chimney. For a pipe 5 meters high, rectangular section should be equal to 66 sq. cm, square section - 62 sq. cm, and round - 56 sq. cm.

An example of calculating the size of a fireplace for a room with an area of \u200b\u200b20 sq. m

The width of the fireplace portal must necessarily be a multiple of ½ the length of the brick, and the height of the portal is a multiple of the height of the brick and 0.5 cm of the masonry, which is 7 cm.In our case, the width of the portal will be equal to three bricks or 77 cm, and the height is 7 rows of masonry or 49 cm.

• The height of the portal is 53.5 cm (seven rows of masonry).
• The width of the firebox is 79 cm (three bricks).
• The depth of the furnace is from 1.5 to 1.75 bricks.
• The pipe section is 14 cm by 27 cm.

Important! When drafting a fireplace, take into account the location of the beams and rafters for correct installation pipes.

Before proceeding with the procedures, remember that the first row is best laid on the edge,and the next rows are laid flat... The bottom of the firebox rises above the floor by at least three rows of masonry. We will present you with several ordering diagrams for fireplaces.

Scheme No. 1. Ordering a corner homemade fireplace

Scheme No. 2. Ordering a wall-mounted fireplace for a room of 20 sq. meters

Scheme No. 3. English fireplace

Selection of building materials

To build a fireplace you need construction material better quality.

• Brick. We need refractory (fireclay) brick. When buying bricks, carefully check each product separately. The color should be orange-red, all corners are intact, no chips or breaks, a clear sound sounds when tapped.
• Sand... The sand fraction should be no more than 1.5 mm. The material is carefully sieved through a fine sieve. For better masonry, the sand is washed.
• Clay. You need dark red or brown clay without impurities. If it is possible to get Cambrian clay, this will be the most the best option for laying a fireplace.

Important! The use of refractory bricks involves the use of a refractory clay mortar.

• Portland cement. An excellent option would be to choose the 300 brand.
• Crushed stone... This material with a fraction of up to 6 mm is needed for the manufacture of a concrete foundation.
• Smoke damper
• Reinforcing bars... They will need at least 20 pieces. 70 cm long and 1 cm in diameter.
• Grate
• Fireplace screen

Brick masonry fireplace

Fireplace erection works start with laying the foundation... A separate foundation is laid under the fireplace. We make the dimensions of the basement area 6 cm larger than the fireplace base.

Foundation

Important! The level of the finished foundation should be 6 cm below the field level.

Fireplace laying

Three days before starting work on the laying of the fireplace, you need soak the clay adding water in small portions so that the solution is not too thick. The quality of the masonry depends on the quality of the prepared solution. The finished clay pulp is poured into washed dried sand and thoroughly mixed to a thick jelly. Small sticks up to 15 mm thick are rolled from the finished mixture. With an excellent solution, the sticks will not disintegrate and stick to your hands.

Make thorough calibration of bricks... Lay waterproofing on the finished foundation, it can be roofing material covered in two layers.

Everything is ready for work and you can start the main stage of work.

Important! If you prefer red brick, it must be soaked in water before starting work in order to maintain the strength of the masonry. Refractory bricks are immersed in water for a couple of minutes before laying, allowing air bubbles to escape.

For laying the first row, add to the solution up to 30% of the bulk portland cement. The drawn up order is kept next to them in order to periodically check the accuracy of the work. After laying the row and making a check to maintain the geometry of the planned structure, you need put a mark in the project. The laying of a fireplace structure is a painstaking work, and such control will greatly simplify the task at hand.

A trowel or trowel is used to lay continuous rows. Toplivnik and the smoke box is best laid by hand... The seam thickness should not be more than 5 mm. Spread the mortar in the middle of the brick in such an amount that it does not go beyond the edges of the brick.

The laying of the firebox, smoke box and ducts is carried out with great care. Excess solution must be removed. It is very important to remember that these elements of the fireplace inside do not lend themselves to plaster.

For a beautiful high-quality masonry of a curved vault, you need to install a circle - a temporary formwork. Having laid the first brick in the middle of the vault, continue laying in both directions.

Chimney installation

Laying out the chimney is necessary, as often as possible check its verticality.The better the chimney installation work is done, the better the draft will be in the fireplace and the less likely carbon monoxide will escape into the room. The inner walls of the chimney need wipe with a cloth soaked in liquid clayto create a perfect crack-free surface. For laying the chimney on the roof, use a solution of cement and sand.

It will be much easier to carry out work related to the installation of a chimney if used in a smoke shaft special pipes. These can be chimneys made of ceramic pipes, modular stainless steel, thin-walled structures made of acid-resistant and heat-resistant steel.

Installation of metal elements

During the installation of the fireplace structure, metal fittings are placed in the seams leaving gaps of up to 8 mm. It is undesirable to lay a lot of metal elements in brickwork, but you cannot do without them at all. A fireplace insert and a view must be included.

The frames of the firebox and valves are not attached with anything, they adhere perfectly to the prepared solution.The valve is installed at a height of 2 meters.

Decorative finishing

With the ideal choice of bricks and high-quality masonry, there is no need to make additional facing of the fireplace. It is enough, using a white solution, to make a neat grouting.

If, nevertheless, you have a desire to start finishing the fireplace, use special smooth or patterned tilesable to adhere perfectly to the hot surface of the fireplace.

Today, you can purchase portals from manufacturers of fireplaces made from natural materials of various qualities. It could be travertine, marble, stone. Ready-made portals will be able to adequately decorate the fireplace you have folded and give it even greater uniqueness and beauty.

An excellent addition to the fireplace will be a special fireplace set made of non-ferrous or cast iron forged metal... The sets always include tongs, a hook, a whisk and a scoop. A beautiful and practical screen can protect the carpet spread by the fireplace from accidentally falling coal.

Let's sum up

After completing the laying of the fireplace, it is necessary to give some time to dry the solution.It is better to wait a few days, and then put crumpled newspapers into the chimney to check the draft and set it on fire. When the fireplace is ready for use, the newspapers will burn well. Now you can try to heat it with wood.

The basic rule when laying a fireplace yourself is not to rush and carefully follow all the recommendations.

Brick fireplace construction video

The fireplace was the first specially designed heating device known to mankind. In the industrial era, it acquired a more decorative and prestigious value, but today, interest in fireplaces, which are not only beautiful, but also warm, is reviving. As the main heating device, the fireplace has no particular prospects, but as an additional or alternative it can significantly save on utility costs, and a neat home master of an average hand can make it with his own hands.

On modern species a slowly burning eco-friendly (pellets, biofuel), a properly made fireplace can show efficiency no worse than or. However, the cost of a brick fireplace in terms of material consumption is two to three times, and the money is three times to four times less than for the same heat output.

This article will provide descriptions, diagrams and drawings of several homemade fireplaces and designs industrial production... But a significant amount of material is devoted to what other sources often mention, if at all, then in passing. Conventionally, this information can be called the basics of fireplace science.

It would seem, why be distracted? But, performing even a very good product in steps according to the instructions, we will get it again, and hardly better than the one made by the author. And nobody has canceled or will cancel the decorative function of the fireplace, and technically it is not so simple as it looks. To build a beautiful, cozy and useful fireplace for yourself, you first need to figure out what it actually is, how it works, what it is good for and what it is not for.

Types of fireplaces: aesthetics

The fireplace, as before, not only warms the room, but also gives it a special comfort. They build it in the shower of the house - in the living room. A technically efficient, but unprepossessing and / or out of place fireplace makes the house look bad. Therefore, before starting to make it, let's see what the face of the fireplace itself might look like. The choice is not that wide, since the fireplace should not only look, but also warm. And do not smoke, smoke or create a danger of fumes. Choosing the right style, you can take on the construction.

Classic

The most common type of fireplace is English classic. Its appearance is shown in Fig. We will talk about its structure and technical features further, but one thing can be said about aesthetics: it will go anywhere, even in an art deco or fusion interior. Classics are therefore classics because everywhere they go. Everything that can somehow not stick together was eliminated in the process of centuries of evolution.

Dutch

A Dutch fireplace is, in essence, a fireplace stove. And not because it is faced with tiles, they may not be, as on the right pos. fig. below. But the presence of smoke flows is obligatory: the Dutch were forced to save on fuel in the Middle Ages. Therefore, a Dutch fireplace, in fact, is not a fireplace at all.

A Dutch fireplace is laid out like a stove, only with an enlarged mouth of the firebox and a deaf hearth without a blower. The firebox doors are either not there at all, or they are openwork, cast or forged, freely letting in air. This follows from the peculiarities of the fireplace operation, as described in the next technical section.

To build from scratch, a Dutch fireplace is difficult: both the masonry is not easy, and the finish needs high quality. But, if it is necessary to make a fireplace from the stove, then the great-grandmother's Dutch woman in the wall or in the corner is a godsend. It is enough just to open the firebox wide open, close the blower - there you have a fireplace.

The second, already a little costly, but excellent in all qualities, option is to expand the crucible to fit a modern factory-made fireplace insert. We will return to them later, but for now we note: a branded firebox can give a second life to a dilapidated Dutch woman. Instead of its scrapping and subsequent overhaul - cosmetic repairs and a fireplace in the house. There is probably no need to compare.

Rustic

Rustic in Latin means rustic, rural. Best of all, its meaning is conveyed by the Russian "devil!" However, rustic fireplaces look very good in country, colonial, rococo and even bourgeois interiors, see fig. Rustics are built from wild stone.

A special type of rustic fireplace is a Provence style fireplace, right pos. in fig. Provence style is, in essence, French country, only lighter and more sensual. Therefore, a light stone, warmer and softer, goes to Provence fireplaces: yellowish limestone, sandstone, slate (not combustible!) Once Provence fireplaces did not last long because of this, but with a modern factory firebox, the stone actually turns into a cladding, heat loads are almost does not receive and the fireplace has served for many years.

Rustic fireplaces are expensive in the first place. Natural stone cut to size is a building material of an elite class, regardless of its grade. Secondly, only a very experienced stove-maker can build a "rustic". The structure is heavy, requires a good foundation, and natural stone masonry is difficult to work with. Knowledge alone is not enough here; considerable experience is also needed.

Note: wild stone and natural stone are not the same thing. Wild - the way it was taken out - boulders, pebbles, chipped boulders. And the same stone, which has been processed on stone cutting equipment and meets certain size standards, will already be natural.

In the wall or near?

Classic and rustic fireplaces can be built in the following designs:

• Built-in (closed) - the throat of the firebox is flush with the wall; the portal (see below) is made right along the wall.
• Semi-open (see the figure on the right) - they are close to the wall or partially recessed into it.
• Open - there is free space between them and the walls on all sides.
• In the openings, two rooms are heated at once.

Built-in fireplaces require a special building design and are foreseen in its plan at the design stage. Open ones take up a lot of living space. Therefore, city fireplaces, with some exceptions (about which below), are most often performed half-open.

Alpine

Alpine or Swiss fireplaces have come into fashion relatively recently. These, again, are not really fireplaces, but simple open hearths from Swiss chalets, on the left in Fig. The modern interest in them is most likely associated with their democracy: the fire is visible from all sides, and you can sit around it in a circle.

English and Dutch fireplaces, on the contrary, are authoritarian: only the patriarch was supposed to bask in the evening by the fire with a pipe. An inattentive son / granddaughter reaching for the fire risked getting a hefty kick or slap without any explanation.

A Swiss fireplace can be laid out without much difficulty by yourself, but only in non-residential premises... In permanently inhabited premises, their independent construction is prohibited by fire legislation - an open fire, after all. In city apartments up to business class inclusive, "Swiss" cannot be done at all, but in elite apartments it is possible only with the special permission of the fire inspection and the presence of a fire certificate for the product.

For individual country houses there are no exceptions rules. A fire in a house with people in a village or in a cottage community is even more dangerous than in a high-rise building: the Ministry of Emergencies will not arrive quickly. But it is quite possible to build an alpine fireplace in the country without asking anyone and without risking any fines. Country houses, by law, are non-residential premises.

Modern

Modern design styles have not been spared, it would seem, such archaic fireplaces. The reason is almost everything modern styles the designs with external coldness and laconism are filled with hidden energy. And the fireplace is a receptacle of the visible energy of fire, therefore its framing does not have to be sophisticated and pretentious.

Modern

Modern is known as an all-accepting style. Designers, decorators, applied artists among themselves (in public, they are sophisticated aesthetes) say: "Yes, push whatever you want into modern." But modern is by no means a disorderly dump. It requires a very developed taste and has many meanings.

One of them is important in the fireplace business: a modern fireplace that fully meets the criteria of style and does not violate its aesthetics at all can be made of light modern materials WITHOUT FOUNDATION, middle and right positions. in fig. A fireplace without a foundation - what is it like? At least for savings on construction work.

Mini

The minimalist style no longer likes anything hanging. It is purely down to earth and spread over surfaces. In mini interiors, even built-in lamps are recommended.

For fireplaces, minimalism has its pluses and minuses. Minus - an open or semi-open fireplace does not fit into the interior of the mini. If the walls are thin and the fireplace cannot be drowned in them, you have to enclose it with some kind of box, imitating "built-in", as in the left pos. fig.

But the plus of mini-fireplaces is more significant: the minimum frame in combination with a modern firebox allows you to make a mobile mini-fireplace, on the right in fig. Indeed, a branded 12 kW firebox weighs about 100 kg (see below), and a purely decorative one on biofuel - up to 20 kg. Framed - about 30 kg. It is by no means a bogatyr who can carry it within the premises.

High tech

The basis of the hi-tech style, as you know, is smooth colored or metallic, often shiny surfaces, smooth or smoothly curved. From the point of view of a fireplace, this means that it can be made both with a ready-made factory firebox (the first and third positions on the left in the figure), or with any of the classic designs, but made of modern materials, the second and last positions. However, it is undesirable to make a high-tech mini-fireplace (third position from the left) mobile. In theory, elements of a high-tech interior can be displaced from their places no more than transistor valves in a computer chip.

Bionic style

Bionic style is, roughly speaking, back to nature using high technology. Bionic interiors are not very common. The reason is their extreme high cost. We need natural materials, an experienced, bionic-specializing (and appropriately paid) designer, and super-elite craftsmen who can bring the fruit of his quest to life. Following the example in Fig. you can imagine how much the fireplace alone will cost in a bionic interior.

Street

Outdoor fireplaces are also a trend of modernity. Frankly speaking, there is no special meaning in them: what a whim it is to sit by the fire in the open air in bad weather? And the fireplace will not get wet and cold all the time for the future, so the materials for it are especially resistant and, accordingly, expensive.

However, for a picnic with barbecue in the country or, especially, in a suburban entertainment establishment, a street fireplace still makes some sense. Therefore, let's figure out briefly what and how to build it, so as not to redo it in a year or two.

The most obvious solution is a collapsible outdoor barbecue oven, the first on the left in the top row in Fig. You cannot do this yourself without production space with the necessary equipment, but prices for branded ones are acceptable. They weigh a little, you can carry them together. They disassemble and hide for the winter.

In the middle, in the top row, there is the same BBQ fireplace, but made of dense wild stone: granite, gabbro, diabase, etc. It will withstand any bad weather for an indefinitely long time, does not require accelerating furnaces after the autumn-winter slush, because moisture absorption of the material is negligible.

However, the cost is prohibitive. The material is also, as they say, flowers. But work is already juicy berries. Are there many stove-makers who will undertake to bring a solid vault out of the "savage"? And whoever takes it and really knows how, he will have to sort through tons of stone in order to select pieces for keys and wings. And the wings themselves also need to be folded out of nothing. And you can't do without adjusting the pieces, but adjust the granite so that the outside view does not deteriorate - it's not for you to hang up the bricks with a butt, the diamond wheel in the grinder will not have to be changed alone.

But the upper right at the top of the metal option for DIYers is just right. The design is clear from the drawing, one person drags it back and forth without difficulty. Already with the firewood laid in the opening of the shell for drying, the look is quite natural. And if you lay out the upper cheek with flat stones on a cement-sand mortar with polymer additives, you will get a real "Swiss". True, two of you will have to wear one.

Finally (bottom left in the figure), an ordinary brazier will also go for a Swiss fireplace in the open air. By the way, it is more capable of cooking kebabs on it than on the previous version.

If you certainly want a fireplace, both in the wild, and homemade, and brick, then it must be erected in the gazebo, on the bottom right in Fig. Celestial moisture and a device with a flame inside made of a porous hygroscopic material on a clay solution are incompatible things. After winter, from the accelerating firebox it can simply fall apart. An example of a stove-fireplace-barbecue suitable for a gazebo will be given below.

Fireplace types: appliances

The Swiss fireplace has no scientific and technical features. This is a simple hearth, a bonfire at the deepening of a pedestal made of non-combustible material. But here is also very ancient, English classical - the device is already quite interesting.

Note: there are known images and models of classical fireplaces, which archaeologists attribute to the pre-Roman Celts and Picts. That already at the time of William the Conqueror was a hoary antiquity.

Rustic and Provencal fireplaces are the same classic ones, only decorated in a different way. Dutch in principle of operation and device is no different from the Dutch oven. Modern fireplaces with improvements will be considered, but let's start, as usual, with the classics.

Classic and Rumford

Diagrams of the device of a classic English-type fireplace are shown in Fig. on right. A classic fireplace differs from a simple hearth under a smoke collector in only two details: an infrared (thermal) reflector; reflective surface, and a smoke tooth. But these two details give a lot.

The highlight of the fireplace is the smoke tooth. It limits throughput chimney due to the formation of a slow vortex under it flue gas... If you flood an English fireplace with damp wood, then, until they ignite, a smoke ball in the furnace is clearly visible, which does not go into the chimney and does not spread out.

Thus, the air in the firebox made several revolutions, in contact with the burning fuel, until it gradually went into the chimney. This achieved the following:

1. The gradual release of oxygen by air made it possible to organize an energetically efficient slow combustion of even very energetic fuels - pine wood, anthracite - without the danger of carbon monoxide formation.
2. The oxygen of the air was used more fully, which, with high-quality fuel, excluded the formation of waste at any position of the view.
3. The air became very hot and immediately gave off heat to the body of the fireplace, which, in turn, radiated it into the room.
4. The time constant of the vortex in the furnace is 2-7 minutes, which made the combustion process self-regulating.
5. As a result, with the same fuel loading, it is possible to fearlessly adjust the heating intensity in a manner that is extremely dangerous in furnaces: by partially sliding the view.

Let's give an explanation. The formation of carbon monoxide CO is an endothermic process, i.e. energetically disadvantageous. Figuratively speaking, when there is a lack of oxygen, burning fuel tends to pull more energy carrier - oxygen - to itself before being partially oxidized, as a result of which CO is formed.

In the fireplace, access to outside air is basically free; there are no doors on the mouth of the firebox. But the vortex in the furnace created by it prevents the fuel from getting enough oxygen. If the oxidizer becomes too small, the combustion dies out, the vortex weakens, the flow of outside air increases, the fuel flares up, the vortex intensifies again, and rotates until all the oxygen from it is consumed, and then the process will repeat again and again.

However, it is impossible to organize such combustion in a chamber that is deaf from above. The fact is that the volume of flue gases in the vortex continuously increases as it develops, as due to thermal expansionand due to the formation of products of thermochemical reactions. If you close the view tightly, the vortex will come out (the fireplace will smoke, like the stove), the whole process will go off the mode, and the fireplace will burn just like a fire.

Note: as a result, the view of an English fireplace is made with an idle hole, as in the throttle valve of an automobile carburetor. Its area is approximately 10% of the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe chimney. This opening does not reduce the efficiency of the fireplace, see below.

Further, the hot whirlwind heats the body of the fireplace well, and it heats the room just as well. Only the surplus of already cooled flue gases are emitted into the chimney, which additionally give their heat to the fireplace in the chimney. The efficiency of an English fireplace for such a simple device is unusually high: up to 46% for Cornish coal and over 50% for pellets.

Note: from the above it is clear that it is impossible to make a smoke tooth in the form of a simple brick protrusion. Here aerodynamics are already working, the tooth must be profiled. Varieties of English fireplaces differ from each other mainly in the shape of the tooth.

True, in a modern city apartment such indicators cannot be achieved: measurements were carried out in old English castles, for fireplaces with a smoke hood 4.5-5.5 m high and a total chimney height of 12-17 m.But all the same, even with ceilings of normal height the fireplace will heat no worse than the Dutch woman, and it is technically easier to build it. Alas, only technically, see below.

The described principle of operation gives a consequence that is important for practice: the heat of flue gases after the smoke tooth, in the smoke hood is waste, it can be used as you like: make air vents and additionally heat the air, build a hot water register into the hood, etc. This is not the case in stoves with smoke circulation - the internal energy balance must be strictly observed and the energy circulation paths must not be disturbed, otherwise the stove will go out of mode, smoke, and its efficiency will drop sharply.

In the fireplace, the heat generation zone (HRT) is concentrated in the space from the hearth to the smoke tooth. There is nothing below to take, but above - take at least everything, no one will notice. It is in this that an English fireplace differs from stoves, and not in what heats with radiation, as they often write. The stove also radiates heat. In the fireplace, HRT is also combined with the zone of the technological process (ZTP), combustion, but also in the same.

Under the fireplace insert

Initially, in English fireplaces, the fireboxes were made really deaf, laid out of stone with a slight outward slope. Without tilting, the fireplace itself will never enter the internal circulation of gases during kindling. The direction of rotation of the vortex in such fireplaces was opposite to that shown in Fig. higher.

They worked as they should, but they could be dangerous: large burning pieces often rolled out. That is absolutely useless in the castle with the stone floor of the banquet hall: there are also carpets, furniture, magnificent robes of a great "succumbing" company.

Therefore, already in the Middle Ages, they began to make fireplace inserts with grates and a very low blower designed only for kindling. When the fuel flared up and the flame began to draw into the chimney, the blower was closed. A sudden jolt of excess energy excited a vortex, and - order!

Nowadays, for the sake of saving on metal fittings and simplifying the work, underneath is often made deaf stone, moreover, horizontal or even with a small slope inward. The reason is the kindling with high-energy flammable liquids and, especially, ignition gels. They by themselves provide an excess of energy necessary for the formation of a vortex, and then - everything is the old-fashioned way.

Curious

Filmmakers / TV men, filming something about old England, right up to Sherlock Holmes, will certainly look for a castle or at least an old cottage with a "real" fireplace, in which there is a stone fireplace under the firebox. And the owners of such households make good money on renting them out for shooting. Meanwhile, already at the time of the dissolute Hugo, who by his mad sinfulness gave birth to the dog of the Baskervilles, fireplaces with a grate and a low "starting" blower were in common use.

Rumford fireplace

A diagram of the Rumford fireplace (in the former transcription - Rumford, Rumford) is shown in Fig. on right. The working process in the Rumford fireplace is exactly the same as in the classic one, but the delay of flue gases instead of a smoke tooth is provided by a throat with a hyperbolic profile, the so-called. Rumford neck. By the way, it is widely used in technology in general, not only in fireplaces.

The efficiency of the Rumford fireplace on the same fuel is exactly the same as that of the classic one. But, as you can see from the picture, its design is much simpler, cheaper and lighter. A Rumford fireplace can also be built in a block high-rise building: the required depth of the firebox is one and a half times less than that of the classic one, and a foam concrete or vermiculite slab will go to the foundation.

Only one "but" - the profile of the throat must be maintained accurately enough; tolerance from hyperbola - plus / minus 5% along the normal at this point. It is the ignorance of this circumstance that explains most of the failures of those who tried to build it self-made.

About reflectors

Many craftsmen, knowing that the fireplace heats mainly IR from the firebox, build in a metal reflector or even an expensive mirror made of heat-resistant glass with titanium-niobium amalgam. An example of a design of this kind and its dimensions (by the way, the typical dimensions of a classic fireplace for a modern living room) are shown in Fig. It is recommended to clean the reflector to a mirror finish before each firebox.

All these complications, generally speaking, do not hurt. But nothing in the fireplace will improve either. The thing is that black-looking soot and soot (fine amorphous carbon) reflects infrared rays very well. In much the same way as unglazed earthenware is visible light.

Therefore, physicists do not make models of an absolutely black body out of soot, which often causes bewilderment among high school students and students. What a complete absorption here, if in IR it almost shines! So "bothering" with reflectors when building a fireplace is a waste of time. It will be smoked - it will shine by the heat by itself.

Versatile in the corner

An English type fireplace can be not only frontal. Generally it is believed that the fireplace in the corner should be built in Dutch, but this is just a prejudice. A corner fireplace, which works quite in English, is easy to fold, knowing how to work with fireclay bricks, see the masonry diagram in Fig. on right. The structure is quite massive and is suitable only for private households. But it can also be used as a barbecue, and it is easy to equip hot smoking in a smoke hood.

Video: the process of building a corner fireplace

With a water heater

As it is already clear, it is not difficult to build a water-heating register into an English fireplace. You just need to remember that you won't take much heat. A fireplace with a thermal power of 20 kW per tooth produces hardly 4-5 with an extremely intense firebox. Enough for DHW with a storage tank, but not for central heating.

The heat exchanger itself, because the temperature behind the tooth is low, it is better to make from 2-4 rows of thin-walled metal tubes, 3 tubes in a row, staggered. And it's easier to work - no need to disassemble the hood, just drill holes in it - and the heat transfer will be good.

Modern with fireboxes

When they say "a fireplace with a firebox", it often causes bewilderment: a fireplace without a firebox, how is it? Some kind of electronic 3D fire simulation?

There are some, although it is immediately obvious that it is a fake. But in this case, we will talk about a fireplace with a special factory-made firebox. An example is a domestically produced “Optima” firebox, see fig.

Fireplace insert "Optima"

In such inserts, the classic fireplace heat cycle is simulated and optimized on computers. The products themselves are made from modern materials; special alloys, organosilicon and composites are widely used.

Therefore, a modern fireplace insert is not heavy, compact, and almost does not give off heat where it is not needed, it can even be built into furniture, see fig. on right. The chimney is made of ordinary thin-walled metal-corrugated metal, and the door of the firebox is made of heat-resistant glass freely transmitting IR. The decoration of the fireplace "with a firebox" can be any, according to the taste of the customer and the skill of the master. In addition, the "fire-place" fireplace gives considerable additional opportunities.

More about water heaters

Fireplace inserts are also available with a built-in hot water circuit. Thanks to precise computer calculations, a fireplace with a water circuit in a special firebox is already a full-fledged heating device that continuously supplies hot water not only to the kitchen with a bathroom, but also to the central heating. A diagram of its device and connection is shown in Fig. It is clear that they do not do this on their own.

Air heating

The framing of the firebox of a modern fireplace can be, as already mentioned, anything. This allows you to make a fireplace with air heating, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. The pedestal of the firebox does not have to be made of stone, it can be at least from the same drywall. But, alas, this does not add joy to a home-builder. Why - it will be seen from what follows.

About bio fireplaces

Before moving on from things that are interesting to any techie, in matters, frankly, rather dreary, you should linger a little on bio fireplaces. They have actually already been mentioned: without exception, all mobile minicines run on biofuel. And the furnaces around which they are "stuck together" are also special, specifically designed for biofuel.

Biofuels are produced by the bacterial decomposition of human and animal waste. It sounds disgusting, the fuel itself is extremely clean: it is based on ethanol, and any conceivable combustion mode produces only carbon dioxide and water in the exhaust.

Biofuels should not be confused with absolutely environmentally friendly, and long-known, gas hydrates, "dry alcohol". Gas-hydrated dry fuel is highly energetic, it gives a lot of heat. And ethanol is also known to everyone (and to many - to the pain of the soul, headache and throughout the body) ethyl alcohol. In biofuels, it is in a bound state, so it is not suitable for ingestion. And for the price - it is easier to redeem in cognac.

Alcohol, as you know, always burns out completely, but gives very little heat. Whoever tried to boil at least a 200 ml teapot (glass) on an alcohol lamp knows that ethanol as a heat generator is none. But as a fuel component for decorative mini-fireplaces, it is ideal: it does not spill, because is part of a semi-solid or jelly-like mass. There is biofuel that looks like firewood. But outside a special firebox, they immediately go out, so you can not be afraid and knock the fireplace onto the carpet.

This is not an advertisement for biofuels, but the necessary information to understand the circumstances that are very important for self-builders, especially urban ones. Namely: for a fireplace with biofuel, no permits, registrations, approvals are required. If only the firebox was branded certified, and a fireplace with it can be built even in wooden house... And invite firefighters to the first launch, without fear.

Fireplaces: something awful

Not a fire, not a frenzy, not a tangle of poisonous snakes in a chimney, not a collapse down to a neighbor along with an overlap. Worse: paperwork. And without a permit for a fireplace, if it is not biofuel, there is no way to do it - everyone understands what an open fire is in a living room. Firefighters certainly understand, and especially in the professional-sanctioned context.

The trouble is that there are no legislative acts regulating the design of fireplaces in the Russian Federation. SNiP 2.04.05-91 regulates the device of heating and cooking stoves, but it also clearly prohibits the installation of heating devices with an open firebox in residential premises. In Moscow, fireplaces seem to be allowed by the Moscow City Building Norms (MGSN) Residential Buildings 3.01-96, but only on the last floors (or on the penultimate if the apartment is two-story), and the apartment must have only one owner. The technical logic is not easily seen here, but the administrative and financial Luzhkov era is as clear as day: those who can afford to “roll back” can afford a fireplace.

So what can be done? Let's turn the saying inside out: in every barrel of ointment, if you strain it properly, there is a spoonful of honey. In this case - apartments with a smoke channel, which is separate from ventilation, which is included in the project. These are pre-revolutionary houses, Stalinks, brick Khrushchevs with gas water heaters and titans, modern open-plan apartments in monolithic houses. In them, even according to MGSN 3.01-96, heating devices on a flame can be installed on any floor.

Hence the following twist:

• We begin an allegedly complex redevelopment with the transfer of heating devices (do not write in the application - central heating registers!). The procedure is extremely dreary, its description is a separate topic.
• Under the guise of getting firefighters permission for a fiery heater. The "trick" is that by default, according to SNiP, it will be understood as a stove, if you do not "mess around" and do not specify it yourself. On paper, in words in a familiar way, you can and should.
• We are building a fireplace.
• Suddenly what - here is a permission for redevelopment with the reconstruction of heating; here is a fiery heater. Here it is, the flame, look! Oven? What kind of oven is it? There is nothing in this paper about the oven! Oh, is it implied? Well, if the court accepts your meaning as a fact or a document - please!

However, such a sweet moment will likely never come. Firefighters know their business, and where "it does not shine", they will not go there. But you have to worry about the papers:

1. We order a redevelopment project, "self-blown" will not work. Advice: if the thought flashed to connect the balcony to the room, build a capital partition, combine / divide the bathroom, combine the kitchen with the living room - it is better to start up everything in one package and work with the fireplace, half the money and nerves will be spent;
2. We take in the DEZ, HOA, in short, in the organization operating the house, an opinion on its technical condition (technical opinion on the condition of the structures of the house, refueling complex). It should be noted in the refueling complex that the chimney is in good order, and when it was revised; better - no earlier than six months;
3. We go to a company licensed by the Ministry of Emergency Situations, which develops fire safety recommendations. In Moscow, St. Petersburg, the capitals of the federal districts and in many large cities, these are branches of the VNIIPO Ministry of Emergency Situations (VNII Fire Protection);
4. There we listen carefully, nod our heads, take notes, but the main thing is to get their visa for the project. Without it, further is meaningless. They will demand to finalize or alter the project altogether - not a word in spite of, we do as they said;
5. We go to the firemen, we get permission. They won't give it just like that, but with a VNIIPO visa the issue is "solved" (in VNIIPO, by the way, too), and without it - "wood grouse";
6. We go through all the ordeals of documentary registration of complex redevelopment, and - finally! - we are building!

I must say that if all this sadomasochistic-paper pleasure will cost no more than $ 2500 in the provinces and up to $ 4000 in the Mother See, then you are incredibly lucky. And it will take no less than six months for the paperwork. So think about it, and not whether to order a fireplace in a special company? They have a track, it can be cheaper and faster overall.

Note: a seemingly simple fireplace for air heating from a factory firebox and drywall should definitely be ordered by the pros. Indeed, for all the material for it, including the last self-tapping screw, you need fire certificates, otherwise it is better not to approach VNIIPO. Nevertheless, to order this is the best option: materials and work are incomparable with masonry at a price, and you need to buy a firebox this way and that. Pros know exactly where to buy what, so that the firefighters "pass".

Private suburban homeowners are more fortunate: a good part of the paper hassle comes from coordination with the owners, building designers and urban architecture. If the house is your own, the architectural environment is a neighbor's cow on the pasture, then these stages disappear. And VNIIPO and firemen are not so picky about it: your house, you suddenly have something to burn.

Finally, then: construction!

So now we can already fold the fireplace. Let's take, for example, two classic types of construction: home and suburban. All the rest are technically either the same or simpler. How exactly is mentioned above. Or more difficult and inaccessible to the DIYer. And the documentary registration (again, except for biofireplaces, which do not require it at all) is the same everywhere.

Foundation

For all fireplaces, except for Rumford and some modern ones, a solid concrete reinforced foundation is required, flush with the flooring. Of course, the project should also include a calculation of the total strength: the overlap should hold the weight of the foundation and the fireplace with the margin necessary according to SNiP. By the way, in brick Khrushchev this condition is most often not met.

When designing, it is in no way possible to transfer the weight load from the fireplace to the walls. Even if the fireplace will be located in the wall opening and, for example, heat both the living room and the bedroom. To violate this condition - cracks in the chimney will inevitably go, and with them the most raz-English fireplace will burn out.

The dimensions of the foundation are with an offset of 100-110 mm in all directions. An iron sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or more is laid on the foundation. On an iron pad - waterproofing from two layers of roofing material. Modern high-performance waterproofers are not suitable for hot bedding. On the floor in front of the mouth of the furnace - also a fireproof sheet according to the requirements of the software (removal one meter forward and half a meter on the sides, galvanized on asbestos).

Note: fireplaces with a branded certified firebox do not need a fire-resistant blind area at all.

Work season

Stoves and fireplaces are erected in the off-season (spring, autumn) at a temperature of 15-25 degrees and moderate humidity. It is generally impossible to build them in early spring, late autumn or winter. In the summer, in the very heat, it is permissible for an experienced stove-maker. On dry land, you need to humidify the air in the room with open wide containers of water.

Brick

In the vast majority of cases, an ordinary red ceramic will go to the fireplace, because combustion in the furnace is not intense and the thermal loads on the structure are low. The front, beautiful and smooth brick, is suitable only for external facing: its high decorative qualities are achieved due to poor firing, and, accordingly, poor heat resistance. In addition, polymer additives are introduced into the mass for facing bricks, the contact of which with fire is unacceptable for many obvious reasons.

The brick should be of high quality mass and burned thoroughly, but not excessively. Bricks - "loaves", swollen, noticeably warped, with deep cracks on the surface, are mercilessly discarded. Also - "iron ore" brick, burnt, with a dark core. Both the one and the other will soon crack from alternating thermal loads.

Subtype, i.e. bricks processed into a non-standard size / shape (untreated - full-bodied) for a fireplace are best done with a backbone, and not with a grinder with a circle. It's not about dust, it's about vibration. From it in a properly annealed brick, microcracks can go, which then turn into obvious ones.

Solution

- clay-sandy medium fat content. The proportion of sand to clay is 3: 1. Clay - purchased building clay. Sand - also purchased, river sand, washed and calcined. Cheap quarry sand is not good.

The solution is kneaded in water until sour cream or pancake dough is thick and checked for fat content: it should drain from the trowel dipped in it, remaining on the spatula with an even layer of 1.5-3 mm. Too fatty sticks in lumps, sand and water (a little!) Are added to it again to the desired consistency. Too skinny drains, exposing, in places or completely, the metal of the instrument. It is brought to the required fat content by adding clay and water.

The clay solution dries for a long time. Therefore, you need to prepare it slowly - not cement, and even more so not alabaster, will not grab. You can prepare for the future for all the work at once, this will save time. At night, a tub or trough with a solution is covered with a damp burlap, and in the morning before work, it is shoveled several times.

Masonry

The first row is always laid out on dry waterproofing, giving a solution only to the seams between the bricks. The thickness of the joints is 3-4 mm, the minimum allowable for masonry on clay. Seams between ordinary bricks and fireclay bricks, as well as between any bricks and metal liners - 6-13 mm. 13 mm joint is the maximum allowable for clay mortar. It is sometimes used in the laying of the body, if it is necessary to make a take-out, a canopy or give a fluff (widening).

The masonry is continuously verified by a plumb line and a cord, especially for amateurs. The whole structure is narrow, tall, heavy, and its center of gravity is quite high. Forgivable for brick fence or the walls of the barn are skewed or uneven, the fireplace may cause it to collapse.

Drying

Dry the finished structure for at least 20 days at room temperature. The windows must be wide open, but direct sunlight should not be allowed on the product. It is best to arrange temporary awnings over the windows for the drying period, at least from old sheets on sticks. As a last resort, tighten the windows with gauze.

Commissioning

After drying, make an accelerating furnace with a half portion of fuel. It is better to take it slowly burning - blacksmith coal, coal-"seed". If drying was carried out in optimal conditions, then three days after acceleration, you can start heating. Otherwise, the volume of fuel filling is increased in 2-3 steps from 3/4 of the norm to full.

DIY classics

Here in fig. - ordering of the English type fireplace. The design has been simplified and modified so that less experienced bricklayers could fold it. The bottom line is that the firebox is flowing. Do not close the blower during the firebox! But the grate is small and is located at the very rear wall of the firebox, so the "English" vortex is created in part due to convection suction into the firebox from below. This made it possible to lay out the smoke tooth without any teretico-technological difficulties, with a simple ledge. True, the efficiency on pellets is slightly more than 40%

Video: the process of laying a fireplace

BBQ a-la English

This arbor (remember the promised?) Fireplace is a combined device. A single-burner stove is attached to a completely English fireplace on the side, see fig. A strict pedant from fireplaces, perhaps, will snort, but it is convenient in a country house.

Which to choose?

So what is the best fireplace? Custom order with full funds - depending on the interior. With their incomplete income or credit "surplus" - plasterboard with a branded firebox and air circuit, if the apartment has heat meters, it will save a lot of "communal" in winter.

If you take up the fireplace yourself, then the best option is a biofuel mini. All expenses - for the furnace; finishing for the price in comparison with it is not felt. Well, if you want a solid, prestigious classics - then English. Its powerful aesthetics and glorious virtues will pay off the financial and paper nightmare to some extent.

Video: project of a small fireplace for a country house

Discussion of the topic "Fireplace"

How and what to make a fireplace with your own hands

Today, fireplaces serve not only and not so much as a decoration, but also with the correct installation and selection, they are also a good source of heat.

Fireplaces with an open hearth have been installed in private houses for a long time. Previously, they were the main source of heat in the premises, and sometimes served for cooking. Today, when in order to comply with fire safety conditions, the choice is given to a fireplace with a closed firebox, they have become a good addition directly to heating system houses.

OPEN FURNACE FIREPLACE

They opt for a fireplace with an open firebox if they want to use it not constantly, because as a heat source it is not sufficient for rooms and premises above the average area: only 20 percent of the energy of firewood combustion is converted into heat, and the rest of it flies into the chimney. Because of this, in this type of fireplaces, it takes twice as much wood for heating than in their counterparts with closed fireboxes. A lot of air is needed to maintain the combustion process in open fireboxes. Therefore, it is necessary that there is good ventilation in the room where the fireplace is located. Air supply from below, through the grate, provides better conditions for burning wood.

Operation of these fireplaces does not require any drawing of air from other rooms. An open firebox makes high demands on fire safety. It is not recommended to leave coals in it overnight, and it is better to extinguish the fire before leaving the house. The floor near the fireplace with an open firebox must be laid out with something non-combustible - tiles, tin, decorative stone. Forget about carpets and skins. For peace of mind, you can, of course, install a fine mesh screen, but it will not save you from small sparks.

FIREPLACE WITH A CLOSED FURNACE

Such fireplaces are chosen if they count on it that it will serve as an additional supplier of heat to the rooms. Circuits with a closed firebox will consume the energy of fuel combustion better and more efficiently, their coefficient can reach 75 percent. The furnaces in them are made of materials that accumulate heat well, they are resistant to any temperature and practically do not rust. Fire resistant glass doors can withstand temperatures of +800 ° C. There are many ways to mount fireplace doors - both horizontally and vertically.
The heat output of the furnace is chosen based on the following calculation: 1 kW for 4 squares of the room. The cubic capacity of the room where you want to build a fireplace cannot be less than 40-45 m3.

For an hour, at least 10 m3 of air must enter the furnace for each calculated kilowatt of power. That is, a fireplace of 5 kW per hour will consume about 50 m3 of air, which is recommended to be supplied from the outside through an air duct. Based on fire prevention recommendations, thermal insulation made of mineral wool with aluminum foil is installed near the firebox.

A gap is left between the outer insulation and the surface of the fireplace for free circulation of air. The portal and the outer casing directly above the firebox are made of fire-resistant materials - granite, marble, brick, or plasterboard. The scheme of fireplaces with a closed firebox allows you to use the heat of combustion for heating other rooms. The heat conductor can be either water or air.

WE DESIGN A FIREPLACE BEFORE BUILDING A HOUSE OR COTTAGE

In order to correctly make a fireplace, you need to think about the place where it will be installed when drawing up a house project. The fireplace needs to have its own chimney located directly above the firebox. The cross section of the chimney should be 1/10 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace, and the height measured from the junction with the combustion channel should be at least 5 m. The chimney should be equipped with a damper that separates the firebox from the chimney (more about chimneys here - Do-it-yourself chimney), and a hole for later removal of soot that will accumulate during use. The gate damper is usually a traditional retractable design or is mounted on piano hinges. The advantage of hinges is that an open damper will not spoil the design of a room with an installed fireplace.

Fireplaces of the usual average size usually weigh 500 kilograms, based on this, you need to design a good base for it. If you do not plan to install a fireplace in a built house, it is recommended to consult with an architect. It may happen that additional strengthening of the supporting structures will be needed.

HEATED BY AIR

The air in modern fireplaces is heated by passing between the outer surface of the firebox and its body. Through pipeline channels installed in walls or ceilings, it is bred to the rooms of the house. For the installation of channels, steel or aluminum pipes are often taken.In simple air heating schemes, air is supplied by the gravitational method - under the influence of the difference in the densities of warm and cold flows, but this way you can only heat several rooms at a distance not exceeding 3m from the axis of the chimney channel. But the advantage of such a system is that it does not depend on electricity.

If you want to heat many rooms with the help of air heating and the length of the pipes exceeds three meters, then it is recommended to use a scheme with forced circulation air. It consists of a pump that supplies air under the firebox or directly above it. So you can warm up to 600 cubic meters of air per hour. Remember also that air exchange during the installation of such a circuit is in a closed cycle. The air warms up, bypasses the premises and goes back to the firebox, based on this, the air channels of this heating design do not lead to toilets and kitchens. It is recommended to build a fireplace with air heating even at the stage of building a house, because in an already built dwelling you will have to punch holes in the walls for laying air ducts, which is very tedious and costly.

FIREPLACE - WATER COAT

The built-in firebox with a water cloak in appearance, as a rule, does not differ much from ordinary ones, but it has a structural feature: its body is made in 2 layers, between which the heated water circulates. It goes through pipes to the heating radiators. If an additional coil heat exchanger is made at the top of the fireplace, then there will be an additional opportunity to heat water for domestic purposes. Its circulation will be provided by special pumps.

You can control the operation of fireplaces with a water cloak manually, increasing or decreasing the flow of air into the firebox - this will regulate the intensity of firewood burning. The pump is usually equipped with a thermostat. When the water heats up to the desired temperature, which is provided in advance by the thermostat, the pump automatically turns on and pumps
into the water supply or heating system.
Fireplaces with a water jacket can only work with an open heating circuit, so that an increase in the water temperature does not lead to an increase in pressure in the system.

Basic Rules.

The fireplace insert is installed on a special solid brick or stone platform.
Then the portal is installed and the air outlet system is connected.
The system is then covered with sheets.
Air outlets are located throughout all rooms in the house, including the attic.
The unit of the air exchange system is mounted in a technical room.
One of the most important functions of a fireplace is to create comfort and a special intimate atmosphere. For the sake of these advantages, you can sacrifice its shortcomings. And they are, and you need to know about them if you decide to acquire such a tempting heating device.

The fact is that the fireplace is a kind of stove with a simplified design: it has an open firebox with a large opening and a straight smoke duct without smoke chimneys (which, by the way, can, by the way, draw out almost all the heat from the room together with hot smoke). The fireplace transfers heat by radiation, therefore it heats up while it is burning, and its efficiency does not exceed 10 - 15%. Thus, as the main heater it is not practical.

However, the fireplace also has a number of advantages. It radiates heat immediately after kindling, which is important for garden houses during short visits in the autumn-winter period. The large air flow passing through the firebox contributes to good ventilation of the room, prevents dampness and mustiness, which is especially required for rooms facing north, almost not seeing the sun.

Fireplace laying - where to start building?

Now we will figure out how to make a fireplace. To begin with, it is worth determining the area and volume of the room in which you plan to build a fireplace. We will take a veranda or a room as an example. country house, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 10, 15 and 20 m., the room is 3.3-3.5 m high. The volume of the room is 35, 50.70 cubic meters. The combustion hole relative to these volumes is equal to 1: 50-1: 70, that is, it will be approximately 0.2; 0.3; 0.4 m² Based on this, the portal of the firebox will be of the following dimensions:

0,2 square meters - 36x45cm
0.3 square meters - 44x67cm
0.4 square meters - 52x77cm.

Between the depth of the firebox and the height of the fireplace portal, the ratio is maintained: 1: 2-2: 3, during construction, these dimensions must be observed, because they are quite important. Because if you make the furnace more deep than it should be, then the heat transfer will significantly decrease, and if you make it a shallower depth, it will cause smoke. In our example, the depth will be:

for 0.2 square meter: 18-24 cm;
for 0.3 square meters: 22-30 cm;
for 0.4 square meters: 26-35 cm.

The chimney holes of fireplaces depend on the combustion area, that is, the size of the chimney (hole) should be 8-15 times smaller, and will be:

0.02 square meters;
0.03 square meters;
0.04 square meters.

Accordingly, if you make a brick chimney, then its dimensions will be: 14x14 and 14x27.

But if you prefer a round chimney, then the diameter of the chimney should be in the diameter range from 8 to 14 centimeters. Then you need to calculate the length of the chimney, in our example it should be 4-5 m long.
Fireplace insert

how does the structure of a fireplace insert look? In order to have a better heat reflectance of your fireplace, it is recommended to make its walls from the inside at an angle. That is, we turn both side walls outward, and the back wall must be slightly tilted forward. It is worth starting at one third of the height.

We arrange a smoke chamber over the fireplace insert, but between the firebox and the smoke chamber we will release a cornice - "Pass". The pass is an important part of the fireplace, because it prevents soot from flying out with sparks, and also protects against smoke entering the building (room).

And so, it was agreed above that we will build a brick fireplace with our own hands. That is, it follows that it is necessary to bring the dimensions to the brick masonry module. And so the brick has dimensions: 6.5x12x25 centimeters, and the seam during laying, about half a centimeter.

In order to determine the overall dimensions of the fireplace, you need to choose its position in the plan of your room. The best option for the location of the fireplace is end walls or interior walls in the corner (but the location of the fireplace in the corner, this is another type of fireplace that we do not consider in the article). It is not recommended to place a fireplace against a wall that looks at a wall with windows, because if the windows are not fully compacted, then by building a fireplace in front of them, you will create drafts.

If you heat the fireplace for a long time, then the back walls of the chimney of the fireplaces get quite hot, which can lead to a fire if your house is built of wood. Therefore, in this case, you also need to take into account fire prevention measures.

Next, we will make drawings of the masonry of fireplaces, for this we take as an example a room of 15 square drawing of a fireplace masonry and an ordering of meters. We lay out the back wall in ½ brick, that is, 12 centimeters. And the side stacks in one whole brick - 25 centimeters. The sectional drawing shows the main dimensions of the fireplace in the area (at the level) of the firebox. After these dimensions have been determined, we need layer-by-layer drawings of the entire masonry of the fireplace - ordering.

Since all orders, taking into account the pipe, are already ready, you can now calculate the amount of materials required:

Bricks must be counted by the piece, while all incomplete products must be counted as whole bricks. Brick must be used solid, stove;
The sand should be free of any dust and debris, the size should be 0.2-1.5 millimeters. That is, if the sand contains dust with debris, they must be removed. To do this, sand is placed in water and insisted, changing the water until it becomes light;
Clay for laying out fireplaces is blue (Cambrian). But if there is no such clay in your area, you can use oven clays (if you have experience in their use);
Cement - ordinary Portland cement is quite suitable, the brand of which is 300-400.
Crushed stone for the manufacture of concrete and pouring the foundation for the fireplace, fractions with a diameter of 2 to 6 cm;
Smoke damper;
Reinforcing rods, about 20 pieces, the diameter of which should be 8-10, and the length is 700 millimeters.

We carry out work

As you know, it is necessary to start the construction of a fireplace from the foundation, that is, first, we will determine the size of the foundation for our fireplace. In this case, the foundation of the fireplace should be separate from the foundation of the house - they should not be connected. Next, you need to sketch a plan for the fireplace, do it at the level of the basement, then combine it with the plan at the level of the firebox, as well as the pipes. The foundation should be the same width as the front basement row, while adding 4-6 centimeters.
Fill the foundation

First, we dig a hole, the size of which in terms of plan is 10-15 centimeters larger than the size of the foundation for the fireplace itself, the depth of this pit should be about 60 cm. The foundation can be made both brick and foam concrete. In this case, you just need to calculate which one will be cheaper and check the availability of the necessary material.

Now you can proceed to the foundation, for example, let's take a concrete foundation, because it is more complicated. You need to knock down a box (formwork) of the required height (wooden boards will do) without a bottom. We process the inner walls of the box with resin or upholstery with roofing material for waterproofing. We put the formwork on the base and fill the pre-laid stones with crushed stone with a solution, the composition of which is:

1 part of cement;

· 3 parts of sand.

Mix the dry cement and sand well, then add water and stir until the mixture becomes a homogeneous consistency similar to thick sour cream. Next, fill in and wait until it is ready.

We carefully level the top of the foundation, smooth out all the irregularities, check with a level, and cover it with polyethylene on top. Now you need to wait 7 days and then you can move on to the laying. If you want a foundation, you must take into account that it should be lower from the clean floor, by about 6-7 centimeters.

Heat storage fireplaces

Fireplaces and stoves with chamotte firebox and talc-magnesite outer shell have a number of advantages. Firstly, the ability to efficiently accumulate heat due to the use of materials with a high heat capacity, as well as the connection of smoke channels to the furnace.

This allows fireplaces and stoves to heat the room for 12-24 hours (depending on their weight) with two sets of firewood on the coldest days.

Secondly, reducing the risk of flue gas penetration into living rooms thanks to the internal structure of fireclay plates, reliably glued to each other ceramic mortar, in combination with additional protection in the form of an outer shell of stone slabs, also connected with special glue.

Thirdly, the lower price in comparison with a number of other popular heat storage devices.

Construction and laying of fireplaces

So it's time to lay out the fireplace, but before you start, you need to spread 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing material) on the foundation. Then we calibrate the bricks, that is, select only those bricks that we need. In advance, about 2-3 days, it is necessary to soak the clay, gradually adding water and stirring as the solution thickens.

Clay mortar for building a fireplace, check for quality after mixing it. To do this, take this clay pulp and pour dry sand into it, mix it and when this mixture for laying fireplaces becomes like a thick jelly. Then sausages with a diameter of 10-15 mm are rolled with this consistency. Then they look, if the sausage does not stick to the hands and does not disintegrate, then this solution can be used.

The first row, which lays down with an edge, is best laid out on a mortar with the addition of cement. During masonry, you need to be very careful and constantly check the geometry (the geometric dimensions of the fireplace), this must be done using a square, so you can measure the diagonals with a twine (all diagonals must be equal to each other). We also carefully look at the corners - they should be vertical (we do this with a plumb line) and the horizontalness of each row (this is done with a level).

It should be noted that laying and ordering corner fireplace requires more attention and concentration.

Before laying a brick, it must be immersed in water for a couple of minutes, or rather until all the bubbles come out. If this is not done, then the brick will take away the moisture from the solution and this will lead to the fragility of the masonry.

Lay out continuous rows, best using a tool: trowel or trowel. When laying the firebox, as well as the smoke collector, it is recommended to do the work with your hands, because at the same time you will be able to feel and exclude random stones from the solution.

We check all the laid out rows with the orders, while it is worth marking all the rows with a chalk or pencil. The outer walls are not connected with the lining of the firebox, because there are different temperature regimes here and because of this, the masonry may be disturbed.

The walls of the firebox, channels and smoke collector are wiped from the inside, removing the protruding solution. More an important factor is that you cannot plaster from the inside.

The curved surface of the vault and smoke collector should be laid out making a gradual overlap of bricks, it should be up to 6 cm.The portal openings are covered with brick lintels, which, respectively, should be of different types:

wedge-shaped;
vaulted;
arched.

The lintels are installed using a special formwork - circled. They begin this work by laying the heels, we determine their configuration by the already selected circle. When laying fireplaces, it is better to lay out all the bricks from the beginning, and then transfer them using mortar.

It is necessary to focus well on checking the verticality of the chimney during its laying out. When we lay out the chimney on the roof, be sure to switch to a cement-sand mixture, the composition of which was indicated above.

It should be remembered that in the place where the stone pipe passes through the roof, you need to take care of fire safety. When laying the pipe, in order to close up the roofing carpet, an "otter" (overflow) is installed, and in order to ensure the fire protection of the floor, a barrier is installed.

How to build a fireplace in the country yourself

Often gardeners and summer cottage owners want to make a fireplace in own home... In many regions, the summer cottage season begins in April and lasts until October. But many people want to spend as much time as possible in the fresh air, which is feasible by installing a fireplace. You can sharpen it yourself.

Instructions

1 There is always a wall in the house that you can remove from furniture and install a fireplace. It is best to choose a wall opposite the window. The fireplace insert is made of concrete, the chimney is made of brick or stone. For laying the site in front of the fireplace, you need to choose a flagstone or concrete slab.

2 You can install a fireplace anywhere in the garden. Lay the fire zone in such a structure out of stone. The umbrella and the pipe can be made of tin.

3 The simplest fireplace stove is easy to make from slag concrete slabs. To do this, take slag concrete hollow slabs and lay them on top of each other. Pull tight with wire. Reinforce the grate on top of the oven, leaving openings for air at the bottom. For cooking purposes, place another wire rack halfway through the oven. In the first case, make a chimney at the top, in the second - in the middle of the stove. Be sure to leave a fuel hole under the chimney grilles. By adjusting the bottom hole - blowing, set the fire strength.

4 Choose refractory bricks, colors can be any. It is best to check the firing quality at the time of purchase. Hit the brick - a metallic sound should be heard. If you break a brick, it will fly into large pieces and can also be chipped easily.

5 Dig a pit no more than 65 cm high, line the bottom of the structure with rubble, and then pour cement there, make sure that the cement is thoroughly mixed in water with sand (in a ratio of 1: 1: 3). 7 cm below floor level should be the top of the finished one. Then start laying the bricks. Take roofing material and cover the foundation with two layers of material. Then dilute the cement with water and lay the first brick row with it, remove its excess with a damp cloth. Wipe down the chimney and firebox walls. Use the staggered brick method to install the fireplace vaults and smoke box. Attach a piece of roofing iron to a piece of brick and cover the pipe opening with it.

6 Install a metal grate in front to prevent coal from falling out, as well as a wire mesh so that sparks do not fly out of the fireplace during the fire. As a facing material, you can use ceramic tiles, brick, slate or marble. There are also fireplace cladding kits on sale.

7 Install a vertical flue. If this is not possible, the maximum slope should not exceed 60 degrees. Protect the structure from adjacent wooden pieces of furniture to avoid fire. To do this, take asbestos, make gaskets out of it with a thickness of at least 25 cm, place them near the fireplace.

Required tools

To mount the fireplace you need

Metal and wire grates;

Wire;

Chimney;

Slag concrete;

Roofing material;

Roofing iron;

Facing material.