If you plan to build a bath in the country, then you should think about how to assemble a metal stove for a bath with your own hands.
Of course, the quality of the bath largely depends on its design, but the stove also plays an important role, which will provide the required temperature in the internal space.
Homemade metal stoves in this case are optimal solution, which, moreover, can be fully implemented by hand.
Making it yourself, with the right approach, will not take much time, and in addition, it will reduce financial costs.
In terms of its characteristics and reliability, such a stove is in no way inferior to a brick one, and, if necessary, will provide the bath space with good heat.
In addition, for ease of use, homemade metal furnaces are additionally equipped with a special tank in which there will always be hot water.
For more details on how to make a metal oven with your own hands, see the video below.
A metal stove that you can make with your own hands has a number of advantages compared to the more familiar one made of brick.
Such a stove works on the principle of constant combustion, which means that the fire in the furnace must be maintained in a continuous mode.
In addition, it should be noted that the use of a stove made of metal allows you to warm up the interior of the bath for one hour.
This figure for a brick stove is about three hours. Also, the cooling of a metal furnace takes literally thirty minutes.
The installation of such a furnace in a bath must be carried out in strict observance of fire safety measures. This is mainly due to the fact that its metal walls get hot enough, which in some cases can cause a fire.
It is advisable to install a metal stove in baths, which have a relatively small space, since for a full and effective heating of a room with large internal volumes, it will be necessary to significantly increase the consumption of fuel used to heat it.
Structurally, the oven, made with metal sheets, can be made in a variety of versions. It can be done both with an open heater and with a closed one.
In addition, there are no restrictions on its configuration, as well as on the location.
For its manufacture, it is allowed to use improvised metal materials, but only with sufficient thickness.
As the main material for its construction, both steel sheet and old barrels with pipes are suitable. Free arrangement of its individual elements is also allowed.
Which furnace design will stop specifically should be determined based on several different factors.
First of all, one should take into account the size of the bath itself, and besides that, proceed from the availability of certain materials and work skills.
There are special drawings that detail the design features of absolutely all of its elements.
For more details on how to make a stove with your own hands from an improvised metal material, see the video below.
Preparation for work
Before you make a metal stove for a bath, you should, using the appropriate drawings, prepare the entire required material and tool.
Most simple construction should consist of several separate elements, including a water tank and a firebox.
For their manufacture, a steel sheet is required, the thickness of which must be at least eight millimeters.
In addition, you will definitely need a pipe of the appropriate diameter and thickness, as well as a metal rod and grate.
It is also necessary to have strong latches, with the help of which all technological doors will be closed. A chimney is required to remove all combustion products.
You should also have a tap on hand, which will subsequently be mounted on a water tank.
From a tool for making a furnace of this type, it is necessary to have a grinder, with the help of which metal of appropriate sizes will be cut.
Since all connections of the furnace elements must be made of steel, a welding machine should be purchased.
Also on preparatory stage the design features of some individual elements should be taken into account.
The chamber in which the fuel will be burned must necessarily have a door, as well as a small technological hole for supplying the necessary air.
In addition, it is necessary to provide for a small technological opening to remove accumulated ash.
You should also think about the arrangement of the space for stones and the location of the hot water tank.
Having at hand the appropriate drawings and all the material necessary for work, you can start assembling a furnace for a bath from metal sheets with your own hands.
Phased assembly
After the entire necessary tool and material, you can start working with your own hands. First you need to make a firebox and, accordingly, a heater.
For these purposes, you should use a large piece of pipe. A technological hole is made in it, which will be used as a blower, and attachments for the grate are arranged above it.
It should be noted that all fasteners and seams of the stove for the bath should be as tight as possible, since otherwise the combustion products will begin to flow into the interior of the steam room, which means that the room cannot be used for its intended purpose.
This piece must be positioned and firmly welded onto the top of the heater. A hot water tap should be installed at the bottom of this pipe.
After that, you should take care of the lid that will close this tank. It can be made from a suitable round billet of a certain diameter.
This workpiece is cut in the center into two equal parts. A technological hole for the chimney is made of the water part and is sealed by welding directly to the tank itself.
The second half of the pipe is equipped with loops and a handle and fixed on the tank. The water in the tank will be heated by smoke, which will rise up from the heater.
For more details on how to assemble a metal stove for a bath without assistance, see the video below.
Installation rules
The installation of a home-made stove, which will also be made of metal with your own hands, should be thought out even at the stage of construction of the bathhouse.
The place where it will be located must necessarily have a finely cut reinforced concrete foundation.
Also, its installation requires that fire-prevention measures and rules are fully observed, since the bath is considered an object of increased danger.
Immediately before the installation itself, a special refractory brick should be laid in two rows on a pre-erected foundation. This is followed by installation according to all the rules of the oven itself.
The unit must be at least one meter away from wall surfaces.
If the structure is completely made of wood material, then the surface of the walls must be protected with a special refractory foil, under which there must also be a heater.
This will help prevent overheating and, consequently, possible fire on the wooden wall surface.
The installation of a metal stove in the bath also implies the installation of a chimney, which should be isolated as much as possible from the interior space.
It is best to use a special sandwich pipe as a material for the chimney.
In a pipe of this type, a layer of special heat-insulating material is laid in a special way between the inner and outer space of the casings.
In the case when the chimney under a metal stove is made not of brick, but of a metal sealed pipe, then in the place where it will be taken out of the inner space to the street, a special throughput technological channel should be equipped.
This hole is additionally insulated and sealed after the pipe is firmly anchored. Experts recommend that the finished furnace be additionally overlaid with refractory bricks.
This will make it possible not only to give the metal stove a more attractive appearance, but also to protect against accidental burns.
In this case, this heating unit can be placed at a distance of twenty centimeters from the wall surface.
In any case, for a small bathhouse, the best option is a metal stove.
It does not require serious cash costs, it is collected quickly enough and without outside help. In addition, there will be no difficulties during its subsequent operation.
- one of those options that the owners of their own baths and saunas resort to when, for some reason, a brick stove does not suit them.
The stove for a bath made of iron has advantages - it is smaller in size, it begins to give off heat faster and heat up the steam room, for many it will be easier to make it.
But there are also many drawbacks - it will have to be fenced off from the rest of the room so as not to touch the hot iron with the naked body, and still, in most cases, you will have to use brick lining to equip the furnace.
If we talk about the Finnish and Russian baths, they both have similarities and differences.
It must have a lock, which is closed by turning the handle.
In addition, it is desirable that the handle of the firebox be self-cooling - this can be done by attaching a spring to a standard handle, so it can be opened and closed with bare hands.
The ash chamber for a metal furnace is conveniently made in the form of a pull-out tray-box. It occupies the entire volume of the ash chamber, and during the firebox it is slightly open so that air flows through it into the firebox for burning wood.
After you have finished steaming, push all the remaining ash with a poker into the ash pan-pan through the grate, pull out the drawer and take the ash out.
The combustion chamber of a metal furnace must be lined. Lining is made with refractory bricks, on a special clay refractory mortar.
In order not to bother you with the intricacies of preparing this solution, I will say that it is easier to purchase it in the store as a dry building mixture and knead according to.
Typically, the lining is made by laying refractory bricks on the floor of the furnace, with the grate embedded in it, on the edge along the walls. In some cases, the upper part of the firebox is also lined.
Since it is difficult for a home craftsman who is not versed in stove business to lining the top of the furnace, it is possible to recommend closing the top of the furnace with a thick sheet of stainless steel boiler 12X18H10T, which was mentioned earlier. This sheet will not burn out very soon, and you can save money by making only one of the most important parts of this steel in your oven.
It is also possible to use a heat dissipating grate in the upper part of the firebox, which does not have direct contact with the covering sheet. It will burn out from the action of fire in the first place, and it can be easily replaced if necessary.
Of course, it is advisable to lining the top of the firebox, such work will have to be done in at least two rows of bricks to ensure adhesion in the row.
If the firebox is small, about 200 mm wide, then it can be simply blocked with one row of bricks across. Therefore, there is often a compartment under the firebox in an iron sauna stove make it narrow and high enough so that you can put or put more logs there with a small width of the chamber itself.
Smoke turns are designed to increase the area of \u200b\u200bcontact of the furnace surface with gases that leave the fuel during combustion and go into the flue. This increases the efficiency of the stove, as less heat will be escaped with the smoke.
It is optimal for a sauna stove to perform one or two smoke turns. If you use the passage of smoke through the stones for the stove, as described earlier, you can do without them altogether.
If chimneys are available, due to the small dimensions of the stove, it is most rational to place them horizontally above the combustion compartment so that the stove is larger in height and not in length. The dimensions of the stove are quite important for a not very large bath.
In some cases, smoke turns are made in the form of a hog passing through a bath, for example, under a couch. Although this is more typical for a Turkish bath, many will certainly like this design, where you can lie on a warm bed covered with mosaics.
Boar is made exclusively from. It should be remembered that to ensure good traction through the hog, a pipe of greater height must be installed.
Chimney. Quite an important part of the stove, although many do not attach importance to this. The stove pipe for an iron stove for a bath is usually also made of iron.
Here you can use a segment of the usual water pipe, since, if the oven is made correctly, nothing will burn out in the pipe, and it will be protected from high temperatures.
The chimney must have one very important thing - it must have good thermal insulation from the outside air. This is especially important at high pipe heights.
Otherwise, the air in the chimney will quickly cool during its passage, and will press downward, as a result, the draft will disappear, and when the fire is fired, the smoke will go out into the bath. For thermal insulation, you can use mineral wool wrap around the chimney.
It is best to wrap not only in the attic, but also the part that faces the street. Outside, the wrapped must be protected with fiberglass or other material, excluding rain and sleet from falling on the mineral wool.
It makes no sense to wrap part of the pipe inside the steam room. The air there is rather humid, and during the operation of the mineral wool it will damp and deteriorate.
You can use standard metal structures for the pipe, which are produced immediately with insulation and external insulation in the form of a layer of roofing sheet. Unfortunately, immediately putting this structure on the stove is unlikely to be a good solution, since there is a problem with humid air in the steam room, due to which the mineral wool can become damp.
Perhaps, if the manufacturer of the pipe allows it to be used inside the bath, there is a special mention of this in the instructions - put such a pipe directly on the stove and to the street.
According to fire safety rules, the distance from the chimney to the combustible parts, the overlap must be at least 25 cm. For the sauna stove, by the way, the same standard applies.
Typically, for a brick pipe, this space is filled with an otter and fluff. For a metal pipe, it is customary to put an asbestos gasket around the pipe, and then a metal sheet that fills the area between the pipe and wooden structures roofs and floors.
To increase the thrust, it is customary to supply the pipe with a deflector. This device is like a small "roof" over the pipe. The deflector also prevents rain and snow from entering the chimney.
Do-it-yourself iron stove for a bath (see photo with a pipe below), where the deflector is made different, in the form of a rectangular recess, or even with patterns made of tin. The simplest version of the deflector is to make a cutout in the pipe itself using a gas cutting or welding, leaving two legs, and weld a metal cover plate to them from above.
At the base of the chimney, there is usually such an important part as a valve. When the wood burns out in the stove, and only coals remain, the valve is closed. The coals smolder slowly, keeping warm as much as possible large quantity time, and not releasing it into the atmosphere through the pipe.
Boiler device. Water heating methods
Boiler in iron stove for a bath, they are usually arranged outside the oven.
Usually the boiler is also metal.
Most often it has a lid to pour cold water into it, and a small tap in order to take and use water from there.
Since, unlike a brick oven, the walls of an iron oven during operation have a significantly higher temperature, you can put the boiler just close to the oven, or fix it on the wall of the oven.
In this case, the water will heat up better if the boiler has one flat wall, which is as close to the wall of the furnace as possible.
Therefore, it is better to use a "cube" type structure welded from metal sheets, rather than a metal round barrel adjoining the stove with only a small surface.
It is better to take stainless steel as the material for the boiler. If there is none, you can use regular black. You can also use enamelled containers.
It is impossible to use aluminum or plastic for the boiler, as they can collapse from the temperature outside the stove, especially if there is no water in the boiler. The thickness of the boiler walls from stainless steel can be from 1.5 to 3 mm, from black - at least 3 mm. Galvanized steel can be used if you do not use the boiler for heating water for food purposes.
If you are unable to place the boiler inside the steam room due to its large dimensions, you can place it in the dressing room. When doing this, use an antique water heater.
When firing a stove, it is necessary, after the stones are heated, to take a few hot stones and put them in a bucket. Bring the bucket to a container with water, you can even to a wooden or plastic one, and pour these stones into the water. Hot stones will transfer heat to the water, and it will become warm.
How to properly heat the stove
If you heat a sauna stove, you need to take care of the quality of the firewood. It is best to use birch logs. They must be of such a size that they can easily fit several pieces into the combustion chamber.
It is better not to heat with spruce or pine wood. They form a lot of soot, and your chimney will quickly clog up. Also, do not heat the stove with aspen or alder wood. They also form a lot of soot, moreover, they do not flare up well.
For kindling, it is best to use crumpled newspaper and splinters. Place the newspaper in the gap between the logs from below, stick a few pieces of wood between it and the logs and light it with a match.
If the wood is damp, you can try to put only two logs in the firebox, and put a newspaper and more splinters between them. When these two logs light up, add more firewood.
How to heat a bath correctly - you can watch the video:
The brick stove for a bath is a classic of the "genre". And the technology of its masonry has been improved for centuries. Let's talk about how to lay out a brick sauna stove with your own hands.
Advantages of bricks in the construction of a sauna stove
The modern market offers a huge number of options for arranging sauna stoves, but bricks are still the most popular. And there are a number of good reasons for this, such as:
- Simplicity of construction.
- Not required finishing work - plaster or cladding.
- The brick has exceptional heat resistance, proven by many years of use.
- Brick structures do not burn with steam and help to maintain an optimal level of humidity in the room.
- No harmful chemical compounds, complete safety for the environment.
- Brick kilns are highly durable and easy to operate.
The main elements of a brick oven for a bath
The basic elements of a brick oven have remained unchanged for many years, and the layout of each part has been verified by experience. Laying begins with the markup (drawing) of the future structure. Exists various schemes laying, but any drawing of a brick bath stove will contain the following parts:
- A blower (ash pan) or furnace casting, which may include chimney cleaning wells, a fireplace grate, views, a cast iron stove, a grate, a firebox and more.
- Firebox - fireclay brick is required for laying it.
- Chimney and stove, which are made of natural stone, red heat-resistant or refractory bricks.
- Capacity (tank) for water.
Devices and materials for the construction of a brick sauna stove
It's not so difficult to build a brick oven for a bath with your own hands, and for its construction you will need the following materials:
- Fireclay brick, red heat-resistant brick or natural stone.
- The binder solution requires fine sand and clay.
- Steel corner and tape, galvanized wire.
- Asbestos cord, waterproofing material (roofing material).
Please note that only high-quality material should be used for laying the stove structure. Red brick is taken from grade M with the designation from 75 to 150. The frost resistance of the brick must be at least 25 cycles, its shape must be correct, without chips. The quality of the material is checked by tapping: a good brick has a sonorous sound, and a bad firing will give a muffled sound.
Of the required tools, the following devices are useful in work: a large bucket (container) for mortar, for cutting bricks - a grinder with a metal circle, an electric drill with a mixer nozzle, a construction level, a plumb line, a trowel, a mallet made of wood, measuring devices (tape measure and marker).
Laying the foundation for a brick oven in a bath
The construction of a brick oven should begin with laying the foundation. To do this, we perform the following actions:
- We dig a foundation pit about 70 cm deep, below the level of soil freezing.
- We make the width of the pit at the bottom slightly larger than the main hole in order to prevent the structure from moving in the future (any soil always moves a little).
- We fill the hole with a 15 cm layer of sand, fill it with water.
- Then comes a layer of broken brick with a stone, which should reach 20 cm.
- Next, fill in the crushed stone, on which we install the formwork and reinforcement (a frame made of metal rods). The installation of the formwork and steel rods is carried out only after the sand has shrunk.
- Pour a layer of concrete on top so that the distance from it to the surface of the earth is 15 cm.
- We remove the formwork, apply several layers of tar on the sides, and fill the gaps with sand or gravel.
- We finish the work on the arrangement of the foundation with laying roofing material or other waterproofing material in several layers, the dimensions of which should be equal to the area of \u200b\u200bthe base.
Preparation of mortar for a brick sauna stove
The quality of a brick oven for a bath largely depends on the binder mixture with which the brick is laid. The classic mortar for masonry oven construction consists of clay and sand: part of the sand in the solution should be more than half of the total volume of clay or 3/2 part. In this case, the components of the solution are carefully selected and prepared for mixing.
In order for the brickwork to be durable, its own mandatory requirements apply to each element of the solution:
- Sand... Used fine-grained (grains up to 1-1.5 mm in size), river, but without silt impurities. Before mixing the mixture, the sand is passed through a sieve with holes of 1.5 mm.
- Clay... Before use, it is placed in a container, crushed and, stirring, is filled with water with a small top. After 24 hours, this mixture is passed through a sieve, crushing the lumps. Repeat the procedure if necessary. As a result, a mass of homogeneous pasty consistency should be obtained, to which sand is added. How greasy the clay is, determines the percentage of sand in the solution.
Consider two ways to determine the quality of the mortar for laying the oven:
- A ball with a diameter of 5 cm is rolled out of a clay solution. Two wooden planks are taken: this ball is placed on one, and the second is pressed down. A bad mortar (skinny) is obtained if the ball crumbles under the pressure of the board before cracking occurs. The mortar is considered suitable for use if cracks have formed on 1/3 of the ball. If the cracks have filled half the diameter of the ball, then the grout is very "greasy" and sand must be added.
- The next method consists in rolling two of the same balls from the solution, but one of them is spread out to a cake with a diameter of 10 cm. Then they are left to dry for two or three days, after which the general condition is assessed. If the cake and the ball are covered with cracks, then the clay mixture is very greasy, and if the ball does not crumble when thrown from a meter height onto a wooden surface, then your mortar is good enough for laying a stove.
Important! In the market or in stores, you can find a ready-made clay mixture in order to fold a brick oven for a bath with your own hands. Typically, these solutions have good performance characteristics.
Brick bath stove masonry
A brick oven for a bath is first built without mortar, dry, according to the chosen scheme. There are many options for the ordering of the stoves, and the choice of the scheme depends on the individual preferences of the owner of the bath, the required thermal power, and the design of the bath room is also taken into account. The laying of each row begins with a corner brick, while the required bricks are selected in such a way that they adjoin each other as closely as possible, thereby reducing the thickness of the masonry joint.
Please note: if the base for the furnace is below floor level, then the brick is laid using a mixture of cement and sand (one to three). And if it is located opposite the floor level - in the process of laying the furnace, a sheet of metal is installed on the side where the firebox will go out.
After the rough one, you can proceed to the finishing laying of the stove. Each brick must be dipped in a container of water for 20 seconds in order for the liquid to fill the pores. Next, we perform the following actions:
- Using a trowel, we take the required amount of clay mixture, level the solution at the masonry site.
- Dip the already marked brick into a bucket of water and set it on the mortar, keeping an eye on the thickness of the seam - it should not exceed half a centimeter.
- Set the brick down by tapping it with a trowel, picking up the rest of the mixture on the sides of the masonry joint.
- Try to always take the same amount of solution. Apply the mixture to a new place under the brick, as well as to the edge of the brick already laid. This edge has the name - butt, the masonry seam there should not exceed 3 mm.
- The next brick is laid with a poke to the butt (they should be smeared with a clay mixture).
- Please note: the thickness of the seam is the better.
- We check the ordering scheme. After three or four rows, wipe the masonry with a wet rag.
Important! When laying the stove, the vertical seams should not coincide, they are overlapped by the brick of the next row exactly in the middle, or at least 1/4 of the brick. Also, the brick is not laid with the damaged side inside the oven. The hewn halves of the bricks are placed inside the masonry, but in no case inside the chimney or the furnace itself.
Arrangement of a brick sauna stove
The firebox is made of fireclay bricks, which are not tied up with ordinary bricks due to the significant difference in temperature expansion coefficients. Between refractory and fireclay bricks, they stand at least half a centimeter. The furnace lining is laid from fireclay bricks, placing it with the edge down and using a special bonding solution for fireclay. It should be borne in mind that when buying a combustion chamber, it is recommended to carefully check the serviceability of the fastening furnace door to the camera itself and its tightness.
Furnace casting is usually made of cast iron, the expansion coefficient of which is much higher than that of bricks. It is for this reason that cast iron components (firebox doors, grates, water tanks) must be installed with a gap. The grate is mounted without using a binder mixture at intervals of at least half a centimeter on all sides, so that it can be easily replaced in case of burnout.
After completing the masonry and installing the chimney, the brick oven for the bath must be dried. To do this, leave all doors and dampers open, not only in the oven, but also in the bathhouse itself, preferably for several days. After 3-4 days, the stove is heated with small chips several times in a row until condensation disappears on the door. Drying of the brick oven is over when moisture no longer forms on the damper - this means that it has come out, and the laying of the oven has been completed successfully.
And finally, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the technology of building a brick sauna stove by watching a thematic video:
We examined the basic questions about how to lay out a brick oven for a bath with our own hands. Good luck!
The modern construction market offers a wide variety of models of bath stoves: for liquid fuel, for wood, and for gas, and with many additional functions. True, manufacturers ask for such units a fabulous sum, and at the same time there are no guarantees that this stove will fit the requirements of a particular bath and will last a really long time. But what is created by those in whom the spirit of the Russian master lives is for centuries.
But making a stove for a bath with your own hands is not so difficult - all that is needed is detailed instructions, step by step photos construction and recommendations experienced craftsmen... You will find all this in this article. The main thing is to approach business slowly and scrupulously observe safety precautions oven works.
Many modern masters homemade ovens for baths, which were made for many centuries and until recently, cause sincere bewilderment: they were built without any chimney, and carbon monoxide came out of the bath only through the door. That is why our ancestors used to say "wash in black". Although, apart from this drawback, the ancient sauna stove itself had a completely practical device, very resistant to fire. So, a domed hearth resembling a well was built from environmentally friendly clay bricks. In it, prepared stones were laid on metal rods, and a container with water, like a boiler, was placed on them. The fire under the cobblestones heated up the latter, and the boiling water falling on them filled the bathhouse with soft and enveloping steam.
Over time, Russian craftsmen got the hang of equipping some kind of chimney for such stoves, and the baths became much more aesthetic and functional. And even more - this attribute of steam rooms has become the semantic and organizing center of her interior design, and the improved concept of their manufacture has made bath procedures not so expensive and more enjoyable.
What should be the oven - requirements for the units
Modern do-it-yourself sauna stoves are practically in no way inferior to factory ones - they are no less aesthetic, they also provide economical fuel consumption, they also take up little space in the steam room and also do not require any complex maintenance.
The oven itself with your own hands in a bath can be made for firewood, and for liquid fuel, and for other sources of energy. The choice of its type depends on the characteristics of the bath itself, but in any case, it must meet certain requirements:
- Availability of sufficient thermal power and a wide range of its regulation. So, thermal power the same stove may be quite sufficient for a bar-shaped bath and insufficient for a frame one.
- The presence of a heat accumulator and a steam generator, so that you can change the modes of heat and moisture.
- Convection control means.
- Almost complete absence of surfaces, the temperature of which exceeds 150 ° C.
In addition to all of the above, according to the rules of furnace work, the sauna stove also has its own requirements for the size of the firebox, fire safety and other important parameters.
Design features of a modern factory furnace
"Hot" or "cold" design options
Depending on the temperature of the outer walls of the sauna stove, it is called "cold" or "hot". So, near the "hot" walls can heat up to 100 degrees, thanks to which the steam room is also warm. Such a bath is easy to melt in a short time, which is indispensable for those steam rooms in which there is no constant heating - these are baths that are used from time to time. And "cold" ovens are not suitable for them. But there are also disadvantages to such stoves: the steam room can be easily overheated, turning it into a real sauna - and not for every person such a regime is safe.
"Cold" ovens, which need to be heated for a long time, have their own advantages - it is impossible to burn yourself against their walls, because their maximum temperature reaches 50 degrees. But the heating of the premises of the bath itself occurs through special channels of the oven, which absorb the cold air of the floor, pass it through the fire and give it through the top already warm, soft and not scalding. That is why only with the help of "cold" ovens it is possible to effectively regulate the mode of humidity and temperature in the bath.
Some examples of stove designs
Brick version - a classic of stove art
A solid, but fairly simple brick construction of a sauna stove looks something like this: a firebox lined with refractory bricks, an ash pan below the firebox, a cast-iron or steel grate for stones, a chimney, a coil for hot water and doors.
The weight of a homemade brick sauna stove is solid, and therefore you will have to arrange a foundation under it in advance. Instead of mortar for laying bricks, you will need to use only clay and sand, because cement is not resistant to high temperature and is able to destroy a sauna stove in just a year. And for the strength of the entire structure, the masonry is done according to its own special scheme.
Metal stove and its features
Compared with brick kilns, cast iron and steel are more compact, have high heat transfer and excellent heating rate. Plus the fact that such sauna stoves are easy to manufacture at the factory, while brick can be laid out only directly on the spot.
It will not be difficult for anyone to weld good metal stoves for baths with their own hands: for this, steel sheets or a large pipe will be used, which will need to be cut. And by its design, such a furnace is not far from a brick one: the same units and blocks, the same elements, only a different design and a different performance. For example, a square bath stove is made of thick-sheet steel or cast iron, and a round one is made of thick-walled steel pipes.
But the very firebox of such a furnace today is made a little differently than a couple of decades ago: now there are two chambers in it, one of which is used for burning fuel, and the second is for afterburning what has not burned out, due to which much less is emitted harmful products combustion and the efficiency of the furnace itself increases by 20%.
The only significant drawback of metal ovens is the large surface area that can burn. Although this minus is not difficult to fix - it is enough to overlay such a furnace with a beautiful refractory brick, or hang a steel screen on the body itself - a convector, which will distribute the streams of hot air throughout the bath and make it more uniform. On the other hand, cooling the furnace due to natural air circulation significantly increases its service life.
But it is not recommended to make a gas or electric stove on your own: even factory models are extremely fire hazardous and even capable of exploding.
The simplest homemade stove options
For those who have never dealt with stove business, you can try for the first couple of years to study the device of the stove for a bath of the simplest design and build one that will heat the bath, heat water and produce pleasant steam.
Also, you can make a stove from ordinary or rubble stone, or thoroughly fired brick. The wall thickness should be from 13 to 25 cm, and the stones should weigh 1-5 kg. As stones for the stove, you can take granite, quarry or peat, but not flint, which is scattered to pieces by heating. And in order for a do-it-yourself sauna heater to accumulate heat, you can add cast iron ingots to it so that they account for 20% of 80% of the stones.
Boilers and water tanks in home-made stoves can rest either on the walls of the masonry, or on special posts inside the firebox, or suspended from a rope. But the grates for the stoves are made of thick steel or they are already getting standard cast iron.
Metal is a malleable material. Unlike brick, it can be drilled, cut, forged, bent, etc.
The metal stove is not afraid of long downtime, does not damp. The design is one-piece, it can be rearranged and transported.
In addition, the metal has a high thermal conductivity. The heating device quickly gives off heat to the room in which it is located.
This also explains the higher efficiency, because brick analogs, until they warm up, lose most of the heat through the pipe. All this explains why a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove is considered the best solution.
What are the design options, how to build such a furnace yourself, whether you need to screen it, how to install it and how to paint it.
Casting a cast-iron frame at home will not work, so the material will be steel.
Several design options for steel sauna stoves have been developed:
- Welded sheet metal frame;
- From the pipe;
- From disks from car wheels.
Usually the material that is easiest to purchase is chosen.
If these are sheets, they must be at least 8 mm thick. If the pipe is about 50-60 cm in diameter.
You will also need:
- Grate (it can be ready product or fittings from which the grill is welded manually)
- Door for the firebox, for the blower (you can do it yourself).
- Latches on all doors.
- Crane.
- Chimney pipe, about 2 m high, 12 - 15 cm in diameter.
On final stage you will need a brick for the screen, stones for the stove and special paint.
Required tools
The toolkit depends on the technologies chosen, but most likely they will come in handy:
- Measuring tool.
- Bulgarian.
For finishing work, you will need a trowel, a plumb line and other tools for laying bricks. Spray gun for coloring.
Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath from a pipe vertical
The advantage of the model is the minimum number of seams. In addition to the pipe, you will need a little sheet metal for the partitions (thickness from 8 mm.).
Preparatory work
The concrete area is poured - the foundation. Its width should be slightly larger than the diameter of the future hull. The formwork is exposed, the bottom is leveled and compacted, a layer of rubble is poured, part of the concrete is poured. Then the reinforcement is laid and the second layer is poured. Total base thickness \u003d 20 cm.
Furnace making
The role of the bottom can play concrete base... The lower edge of the pipe is well leveled so that the structure does not stagger. At the bottom, a 7 x 20 cm blower door is installed.
An example of a metal bath stove
The firebox door is located above the blower. The dimensions of the hole are 25 x 30 cm. If the door opens into an adjacent room, a rectangular box of such a thickness is welded, which the walls in the bath will prompt. The total height of the firebox and blower \u003d 90 cm.
If you make a grate from a corner, placing it with the groove up, it will not burn out for a long time.
How a heater is made - drawing
Next comes the heater and it should be mentioned separately. There are two options:
- Flowing heater.
- Open.
Flowing provides an opportunity for stones to warm from flue gaseswhich, before getting into the pipe, wash them.
This option is adapted to the room empirically. It will be possible to supply steam only in a very well-heated oven, where the soot has burned out, and only after complete heating, when the valve is closed.
In an open stove, it is necessary to more accurately calculate the contact of the surface with stones, otherwise it may not be enough, and the heat will settle like scale on the insides of the unit. You can skip a pipe system through the heater, that is, make a heat exchanger, but this method complicates the creation stage.
Another option - an open heater is located above the firebox, and above the heater there is a water tank. But the water in such a tank will warm up longer, and the height of the structure will not be small - water intake at a high altitude is not always convenient.
Drawing of a metal stove-heater
The disadvantage of this scheme is that the stones come into contact with the cold wall of the water tank and are cooled against it. Therefore, we will modify the half with stones, making it in the form of a balcony. There will be less stones in such a balcony, and they will not fit snugly against the wall.
If the latter option is chosen, a blind partition is made above the firebox, in the center of which a hole is cut out for installing a chimney. In the lower part of the half where the water will be, a tap is welded. Half is cut down - a heater. In its place, a balcony is decorated with metal strips. Here there is an opportunity to give the product an original look.
Do you want to organize a dry sauna? will help to realize this idea. How such an oven works and how to safely operate it, read on.
We will consider the methods of installing a water and electric floor in a bath.
Furnace body made of wheel disks
The appeal of this material is its availability and strength. Furnaces made of thick-walled discs do not burn out very soon (high quality steel is used). For a sauna stove, discs from trucks (ZIL, KamAZ, tractor, etc.) are more suitable.
The hardest thing on initial stage Is to cut the inner part out of each disc. Of course, this can be done with a grinder, but it is more convenient to use a gas cutter.
There are models of combined heating appliances, in which the firebox and blower are laid out of bricks, and the upper part of the firebox, the stove and the tank are metal. But we will consider the option of a furnace completely assembled from discs.
Rim oven
You will need:
- 3 discs.
- Ash pan and firebox doors.
- Sheet metal.
- Chimney.
- Armature.
Tank for water. It can be made, like an oven, from discs, or you can use sheet metal or any suitable container. The temperatures are not extreme here, so the requirements for the thickness and quality of the metal are lower.
Manufacturing of water tanks, furnaces and heaters
Three discs are used for the ash pan, firebox and heater. They are freed from the middle and welded together. An ash pan is arranged in the lower part. A hole is cut out, in the future a door will be welded here.
A hole is made above the ash pan for the furnace door. Now baffle with grate... A metal pancake is cut out in diameter, and a cutout is made in the center, which is welded with reinforcement rods. After the baffle is welded into place, it is time to install the doors and latches.
Now the heater. It will sit on top of the discs welded together. The firebox is closed with another sheet of metal, in which a hole for the pipe is cut (correlated with the hole in the tank, made slightly offset to one side).
Water tank and chimney
A small branch pipe is welded onto which the water tank is put on. A small space is left between the upper edge of the stove and the bottom of the tank (the stove is open, you can add or subtract stones, add heat).
To strengthen the structure, props - jumpers are installed in this gap. The chimney will rise slightly above the tank, but so that it remains possible to transport the unit, place it in the bath in its proper place.
The tank can be made removable from stainless steel. And dock the chimney with an asbestos cord.
Installation of a metal stove in a bath and fire safety
A good do-it-yourself installation option, when the furnace door and the blower go into the dressing room.
Firstly, it is more convenient to heat it, secondly, the dressing room will also get heat, and thirdly, if the stove smokes in bad weather, the gas will not enter the steam room.
Before the firebox, it is necessary to install protection for the floor - a small sheet of metal.
Shielding brickwork not only improves the properties of the oven, but also increases the safety of its use.
Where the pipe passes through the roof and ceiling, it is lined with bricks. To do this, a metal platform is welded in the upper part of the pipe, on which the masonry will be erected.
Furnace painting
A tin structure with traces of welding, it looks bad even in a garage, not like in a bath. In addition, unpainted surfaces are more susceptible to corrosion. How to paint a metal sauna stove? Plain paints with a 160 ° C fire rating are not suitable.
You need to find:
- Organosilicate enamel (up to 350 ° C).
- Organosilicon enamel (up to 800 ° C).
A kilogram of more heat-resistant paint usually costs more, besides the second enamel is heavier and more consumed.
The room must be warm and dry during painting. The surface is degreased. It is advisable to use a spray gun, not a brush or roller.
You need to apply 2 layers. The second, after the first is completely dry. In no case should the drying be accelerated artificially (with a hairdryer, or underflooding). Complete drying is achieved after 7 days.
Experimentally, the craftsmen came to the conclusion that it is better to paint the furnace itself with organosilicon paint, and the screen with organosilicate paint.
Conclusion
In order for the stove to produce enough steam and not lower the oven temperature, it must be carefully calculated by specialists.Modern factory metal ovens are perfectly calibrated.
If you make a furnace according to the dimensions and drawings of the finished unit, success is guaranteed.
If this is not possible, and everything is done by hand and by eye, it will be possible to slightly adjust the number of stones and the heating time along the course of the experimental furnaces. Light steam!
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