The bathroom floor is cold even when the whole room is filled with steam: warm air always rises, and the floor covering is usually ceramic, which conducts heat well. How to make the bathroom?
Incorrect installation of the water floor () will lead to irrational heat loss in the entire heating system.
We can stop at this option if water heating the house is not provided at all (for example, the main source of heat is a Russian stove).
How to make a warm bathroom floor from heating in an urban setting? Impossible. The administration will not give permission for a tie-in into the heating riser, as this will lead to a violation of the functionality of the entire system of an apartment building. The insert cannot be carried out without permission, it is a matter of jurisdiction.
But the townspeople also have the option of installing a water floor for the bathroom, which is not prohibited by law: direct connection to a hot riser.
How to make a heated bathroom floor from hot water, we will consider below. There are disadvantages to this option: the floor will only heat up when hot water flows. And the water in the tap will be colder: it will have time to cool down partially, passing along the contour.
The best option for the city is an electric floor. Heating area is usually small. It is not necessary to keep the system on all the time. When calculated correctly, the power consumption will be quite economical.
A cheap option is a heating cable. Its disadvantages are electromagnetic radiation, the complexity of installation, the need to install a screed (existing).
The film floor will cost more, but it has no other disadvantages. Installing cable mats in the bathroom is problematic: the room is small and the geometry is complex. Pick up required amount mats are difficult, but they cannot be cut.
How to make a heated bathroom floor from electricity is described below. General requirement for film and cable: in accordance with electrical safety standards, the floor should be connected to a separate machine with a 25 amp RCD. And for the rest, you also need to follow the PUE.
Regardless of the type of floor, the first step is to draw up a diagram. The diagram shows the location of pipes / cables / sections of the film, the location of the thermostat, water collector. Based on the finished drawing, you can calculate the required cable or pipe length, the required number of film sections.
How to make a water-heated floor in a bathroom - an option for a private house: integrating the floor into a common heating circuit.
- Install the manifold cabinet (at a low height) or make a niche into which the manifold rail will be installed. Underfloor heating requires its own collector, independent of radiators.
- Install the comb, connect the supply and return pipes from the boiler to it. Install shut-off valves at the connections.
- Remove the floor covering, dismantle the old screed.
- Level the base with cement mortar, repair cracks and cavities.
- Cover the floor waterproofing film with access to the walls.
- Glue a damper tape at the joints of the floor with the walls. Its edge should be slightly higher than the future screed (which depends on).
- Pour rough screed. About seven centimeters should remain from it to the future topcoat.
- Dry the screed for three days, moistening it regularly with water.
- Lay the heat insulator: foil foam, PPS, polyurethane foam.
- If the insulation is not foil-coated, cover it with foil film. Glue the strip joints with metallized tape.
- Lay the reinforcement mesh.
- Lay the pipes according to the diagram. Fasten to the mesh with plastic clamps. The step between the turns is 15-25 centimeters.
- Connect the supply and return pipes to the manifold connections through the shut-off valves.
- Turn on the water, test the system for leaks.
- Cool the floor, pour in a clean screed. The total height with pipes is up to 7 cm.
- Dry the screed (about a day), lay the tiles ().
- The system can be turned on when the screed is fully seized (after about a month).
How to make a warm bathroom floor from hot water? Floor cake - as described above. A feature of this connection method is the connection of the supply and return pipes directly to the hot riser.
This makes some adjustments to the standard editing:
- The metal hot water riser must be replaced with a plastic one.
- It is recommended to lay the floor with a pipe of increased diameter (metal-plastic 2 cm) instead of the most commonly used section 1.6. Otherwise, with a small head, the system will work slowly and ineffectively.
- It is better to use a short pipe, up to 20 m. The laying step is 15 cm.
- It is recommended to reduce the thickness of the finishing screed to a maximum of 5 cm.
- It is advisable to make the layer of thermal insulation thick: if the PPP, then not less than one and a half centimeters with a density of 35 kilograms per cubic meter.
- Pipes are connected to the riser through ball valves, adjusting and balancing ().
Electric floors
How to make an electric heated bathroom floor from a cable? In general, the process is similar to the installation of water pipes: waterproofing - rough screed - insulation - foil - mesh - cable - testing the system for performance - finishing screed - covering.
The thermostat is mounted on the wall in an overhead way or placed in a gate no higher than a meter from the floor. With open wiring, the power cable from the switchboard to the thermostat is fed in a corrugated pipe, with closed installation, it is laid in a groove.
The thermal sensor with the wire extending from it is removed into the section of the corrugated pipe. The sensor is laid between the turns of the cable, the conductor in the corrugation is connected to the thermostat.
How to make a warm floor in the bathroom, if you settled on the film version:
- The floor cake is shaped as described above.
- The film sections are spread parallel to each other in accordance with the scheme.
- They are also connected in parallel.
- The screed can be omitted from above. In the absence of a screed, lay on top of the film additional layer waterproofing.
- Put a sheet of plywood.
- Lay porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles on glue ().
Conclusion
We have outlined the basic rules on how to make a warm floor in a bathroom with your own hands.
In the countryside, water floors are preferable, in the city, electric. Especially if the apartment is not on the ground floor.
Pipe leaks occur even with proper installation. And if you flood your neighbors, the cost of repairs may be comparable to the funds that you saved ().
Video: how to make a warm floor in a bathroom with your own hands.
To arrange a comfortable, beautiful and practical bathroom floor, it is necessary to find a balance between the technical capabilities of the construction of this section of the floor and the desired finish of the floor, which determines all its consumer qualities.
Here are the main problems that need to be addressed:
- Possibilities for waterproofing devices.
- The ability to apply the desired flooring.
- The ability to fulfill all necessary work the chosen option in the room where people live.
Required for multi-unit housing regulations. Even in an individual house, its arrangement is beneficial - this protective structure will ensure the safety of the underlying premises.
Two main types of floors
The easiest way is to arrange the bathroom floor on a monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete floor. This design allows you to arrange all the necessary layers of strong and rigid materials based on cement mortars. There is no need to limit yourself in the choice of waterproofing and facing layer - on this basis you can do anything you want.
Many other types of prefabricated and monolithic floors, both old and modern, have the same qualities. For example - structures on steel or reinforced concrete beams with filling different types, prefabricated structures of concrete and ceramic elements.
A little more complicated is the arrangement of the bathroom floor using wooden beams - this type of design is preserved in some old apartment buildings and detached houses. Due to the fact that modern wooden floors it is profitable to do in some cases and in houses of new construction, then the device of the floor for such a bathroom is important now.
Natural limitations for floors on timber beams and on some other types of floors are associated with the following features:
- need for a very reliable waterproofing wooden and steel beams;
- restrictions on the weight of floor structures associated with the bearing capacity of the floor;
- the risk of deformations associated with the characteristics of timber beams and timber decking.
Independent flooring in the bathroom. Floor structure
When planning a DIY floor for your own bathroom, a home craftsman must first of all assess the technical capabilities for the device of the desired surface finish. This is the basic floor construction (bottom to top):
- Floor structures are most often a reinforced concrete slab.
- Leveling screed.
- Waterproofing layer.
- Leveling screed.
- Flooring.
It is necessary to make sure that all the required layers are placed in the space above the floor structures to the level of the finished floor. This is important both for new buildings and for old ones, where bathroom floor repairs are being carried out. In almost all houses, builders have provided the necessary distance from the floor to the clean floor, so that for a floor of a conventional structure, all the necessary layers can be made, even taking into account that the floor in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than the clean floor in the living quarters.
Perhaps the volume from the slab to the clean floor will not be enough for a water heating device, the use of floor finishes from elements of significant thickness. In this case, the floor for your own bathroom can be made with certain deviations from conventional solutions in order to save space for the implementation of the plan. Here's what you can do to make your floor layers thinner:
- use the thinnest self-leveling screeds;
- use electric heating instead of a water heated floor;
- arrange coating waterproofing together lining.
In any case, when thinking about the floor in the bathroom, it is important to carefully measure the available spaces and calculate layer by layer all the structures that are planned to be made by hand. A written list of floor layers with an indication of their thickness will fully correspond to a professional design solution made by a specialist. 
The sequence of work on the floor in the bathroom
The floor for any bathroom starts with a leveling screed - it is necessary for reliable waterproofing. If the surface monolithic reinforced concrete the overlap is quite even, this screed can not be done, but waterproofing can be arranged directly on such a plate.
The glued waterproofing is carried out with roofing material glued on bituminous mastic. This technology has proven its reliability for over a hundred years. The corners must be carefully formed - without fractures and air bubbles, and the edges of the roofing material are brought onto the walls by 50-100mm. In the place of the threshold, you can lay a bar, over time it will be replaced by the threshold of the box, to which you need to glue the corresponding lapel of roofing material.
If the height of the clean floor relative to the overlap is large, you can reach this level with the help of sheet extruded polyurethane foam - EPS, it is easier than arranging a thick screed. EPPS sheets are laid on the waterproofing layer, and the next screed layer is made on top of them.
On top of the waterproofing, you can arrange plumbing and sewer pipes - they will be hidden by the next screed. The height of this subsequent screed is usually higher than the lower one - it can reach 40-50 mm and more. When performing the bathroom floor on your own, it is best to count on the fact that you will not be able to get the flat surface of the second thick screed with your own hands with high accuracy. It is much better to finish this screed with a layer of self-leveling cement based mortar. On such an even base, any finish is easy to do - it is important to accurately maintain only the surface level of this second screed.
After the end of the second screed, it is time to lay the floor covering, for which it must be selected in time.
Choosing a floor covering in a bathroom
The most common ceramic tile coating is durable, wear-resistant, beautiful, and practical to maintain and clean. Disadvantages include a feeling of coldness and a slight risk of slipping. Floor tiles are much stronger than wall tiles and have a less slippery matte surface. It is advantageous to arrange such a floor finish for a long time.
The floor in the bathroom can be made of natural stone - there are dozens of varieties of marble cut into thin tiles. This is a luxurious finish that requires informed design decisions. Marble and other types of stone are beautiful, durable, and durable, but, like ceramic tiles, they can feel cold to the touch and sometimes slippery.
Linoleum bathroom floor is a simple, inexpensive practical construction, ideal for use in a limited period of time. The choice of patterns is very wide, such a floor is non-slip and even seems warmer than tiles. The advantages of a special waterproof laminate are similar, which can also be used to make a bathroom floor. Laminate feels slightly colder to the touch than linoleum
A neat bathroom owner can even make a carpet for his bathroom. It is a very pleasant to the touch coating that only needs to be protected from splashing water and be prepared for frequent replacement due to accelerated failure from inevitable splashes.
The wooden plank floor in the bathroom embodies all the charm of an environmentally friendly natural coating, but is technically risky due to the risk of warping and other effects from high humidity.
It is best to make such a floor from mahogany - it does not rot, either from larch or oak, it is advantageous to lay it on the logs - so that the wood is ventilated from below.
Alternatively, it is possible to use boards, abundantly and on all sides treated with waterproof varnish.
Modern self-leveling floors for an individual bathroom are now available to everyone. The floor of this type is beautiful, very even, with a pattern "under a natural stone", Is easy to do with your own hands. The disadvantage - common to many other floors - is the sensation of a cold surface, as well as noticeable synthetic odors when used in business.
An interesting, beautiful and surprisingly warm to the touch floor for a home bathroom made of sheet cork. A recognizable appearance, softness and warmth will make a room with such a coating comfortable and cozy, and its sufficient durability and careful handling will ensure long-term operation.
Floors over timber beams
When considering how to make a bathroom floor using wooden beams, two technical problems need to be solved:
- Do not overload the beams, load bearing capacity which is inferior to many other types of floors
- Insulate the beams from moisture and, moreover, from direct soaking.
If the beams are powerful enough, then a thin reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 70, 60 and even 50 mm can be arranged along them, and on it you can make any floor with your own hands, as in a house with reinforced concrete floors.
Rather risky, but quite real with a neat, jewelry-accurate performance, a coating, which includes an intermediate flooring, for example, from OSB plates, especially for the device of roofing felt waterproofing. On it, you can arrange a plank covering on the logs and even cladding with ceramic tiles. The finished floor plane for such a bathroom is suitable for laying laminate, linoleum, carpet, cork.
The most reliable waterproofing layer on timber beams is a solid or welded solid stainless steel sheet. A home craftsman who manages to order or make with his own hands such a structure from a stainless steel sheet in the form of a pallet can be sure that the beams will neither get wet nor rot.
Correct and balanced decision of floor construction
For many DIYers, making and installing many structures with their own hands is easier than deciding what to cover the bathroom floor. For a successful and balanced decision, it is required to adhere to some specific and understandable logic of priorities. Here is an example of a methodologically sound priority for considering floor issues for your own bathroom:
- The composition and thickness of all floor layers for the designer bathroom are assigned based on the pre-planned type of floor finish.
- All existing prospective engineering communications and their influence on the implementation of the floor are checked.
- When all the technical problems have been solved, you can begin to refine the face layer. Perhaps thinking about the technical side of the matter will also clarify the design solution. Once there is confidence in the right choice the construction of the layers of such a floor and the material of the covering, you can get to work.
The accuracy and attentiveness of the master allows you to perform many works more carefully than experts do.
Looking ahead, I will say that one consultation was not enough, I had to devote a couple of evenings to specific educational work, with the results of which I will now introduce you.
Ideas make your head spin
As a matter of fact, the initial options for arranging heating implied both rational decisions and bold, but a little criminal variations of the classic freebie. The question - whether it is necessary or not, has disappeared by itself, since the concept of renovation includes all new items and technologies. But first things first.
Heat source
Hot water is the traditional source of heat in the bathroom. Moreover, if the water entering through taps and mixers is paid from the user's pocket, then circulating through the risers is conditionally free.
Naturally, the circuit from the heated towel rail acquired the shape of one of the first. But it was swept away for the following reasons:
- Hot water is not always such - for sure there are cases when cold water runs from the tap at first, but at night it may not be available at all. Accordingly, all this time your floors will not be heated, but on the contrary - will intensively cool down;
- For supply to the riser, you need to install shut-off valvesthat will be visible to any locksmith or inspector checking your water meters. Agree, no one wants to get a fine for unauthorized use of several thousand rubles.
Next on the agenda was the water loop, which would be a long pipeline. The logic of my acquaintances was simple - while water fills the bathtub, passing through a long pipe located under the floor, the heat from the hot water heats the floor.
And this option was rejected, since the bath filling time takes 15-20 minutes. In such a short period of time, the floor simply will not have time to heat up, and accordingly, the water in the bathroom will not please with its warmth. There is an overrun of hot water, which is not cheap in our time, the price of which is constantly growing, for the sake of the suspicious pleasure of a warm floor.
Captain Obvious says: do not forget that laying ten meters of plastic pipe will not be cheap. Plus, waterproofing and insulation, along with special tile adhesive, will also devastate your pocket a lot. And the efficiency of such a system will be very, very low.
A reasonable option
So, the most practical option is an electric heated bathroom floor. It is his work that can be easily and, most importantly, economically managed. Why?
Everything is very simple:
- The thermostat will turn on heating exactly during those hours that you take for water procedures;
- The rest of the time the system will be idle, thus saving your family budget;
- Laying is an order of magnitude easier than plastic pipes;
- The height of the screed layer under the tiles will not exceed 1.5-2.0 cm, which is important for rooms with low ceilings.
The photo shows a visual diagram of the arrangement of electric heating in the bathroom.
What to choose from
Electric modern local heating systems are:
- heating cables of different lengths and powers;
- special mats based on fiberglass, resembling a mesh, on which the heating cable is fixed;
- infrared sectional elements.
To understand which system is more preferable and best suited for solving the task at hand, I have grouped the features of each of them:
| Heating cable | The appearance of the heating system resembles an ordinary electric wire laid in series without overlaps on the floor surface. But in terms of structure, the heating cable:
The operation of a heating cable differs from a simple electric cable in that during the passage of current it heats up (the process of converting electric current into thermal energy occurs). The small dimensions of the cable allow it to be laid in a screed with a thickness of 50 mm, and on top to lay ceramic tiles. This combination allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature for a long time with minimal energy consumption - it is enough to heat the floor once, and then maintain a comfortable temperature using a thermostat. |
| Heating mats | It's over modern systemfacilitating installation. Mats are made of fiberglass, resistant to moisture and temperature, and a special heating cable is fixed on top. Among the advantages over the usual heating cable I note that it is mounted directly in the layer of tile adhesive, i.e. cement strainer unnecessary, which reduces the overall thickness of the structure to 30 mm.
|
| Infrared (film) floors | I would also like to note this type of heating systems, noting that not all manufacturers recommend laying them under the tiles. The reason is the properties of the film, which prevents the glue from sticking to its surface, which threatens the displacement of the finish coating and damage to the heating film itself. Its advantages:
Disadvantages:
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What to prepare for
In general, having heeded my arguments, having weighed all the pros and cons, my friends opted for heating mats. But before going to the store with them, I explained some of the features of the upcoming installation work:
- Thermal insulation layer - its arrangement is mandatory for effective work. As a rule, for this it is better to use expanded polystyrene plates with a thickness of 20 mm;
- Strobes on the wall for installing the thermostat - they should be located at a safe distance from communications;
- For power supply, lay a separate electrical cable from the electrical panel with grounding, providing it with an RCD;
- The heating sections should not be under the furniture (in this case, we are talking about the washbasin cabinet). Otherwise, the constant exposure to heat and humid air will quickly render it unusable;
- Well, and most importantly, you can use the heating only 28 days after laying the tiles... Otherwise, without gaining strength, the screed will crack under the influence of heat, and you will have to re-lay the tiles in the bathroom.
In a word, my instruction was taken to work. And about how the installation work went, I will tell you as the repair progresses.
Completion
I hope that my story about how we selected a warm floor in the bathroom with our own hands will help the dear reader in a similar situation. In general, the best assistant in choosing is common sense: the features and disadvantages of most modern technologies you can almost always understand by carefully studying the available information.
As always, the video in this article will offer you additional materials for your attention. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!
August 14, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Bathroom renovation is a very laborious process, even though the room is quite small. The main reason for this is the presence of a large number of pipes and communications. Therefore, planning and repairs must be approached thoroughly. The bathroom floor requires special attention, especially if the project provides for heating. To make beautiful floors that meet all safety requirements and have a long service life, you need to carefully study all the advice and recommendations of specialists.
Layout and design: the device of the bathroom yourself
The size of a standard bathroom does not exceed four square meters, and sometimes even less. In such conditions, it is not easy to place a sink, toilet, bathtub or shower stall so that there is free space. Therefore, you first need to carefully consider the design and layout of the premises, draw up a list of materials used and an estimate of costs. Depending on what kind of finish will be, you need to select options for flooring.
The installation of the floor will take the greatest amount of time, because it will be carried out in several stages and each layer must be given time to dry. As a result, it will look like a puff pastry in section.
Floor arrangement stages:
- Roll stacking waterproofing materials on a concrete base.
- Pouring a concrete screed with a thickness of about 50 mm.
- Application of liquid waterproofing.
- Pouring the leveling screed.
- Laying the floor covering.
When installing a warm floor at the stage of pouring the leveling screed, the necessary communications are laid.
When arranging a bathroom in a private house, a rough base is first poured, which in apartments is present in the form of a concrete floor.
Tips from the master: how to make your bathroom floor beautiful and safe
Bathroom flooring has special requirements: it must be non-slip, waterproof, aesthetically pleasing and durable. In addition, the material should be easy to clean from dirt and limescale.
What types of coatings are used for bath rooms:
- Tile. It is resistant to abrasion, easy to clean, and has a wide range of colors and models. For the floor, a special rough tile with anti-slip properties is produced. The disadvantages of this coating include cold, but in combination with the "warm floor" system, this drawback becomes insignificant. Also, on areas where a person becomes barefoot, you can lay an aquamat or a special rug.
- Laminate or parquet. This material is warm and pleasant to the touch, has an aesthetic appearance. For bathrooms, it is produced from special wood with increased water-repellent properties and antiseptic treatment against mold. But with improper installation or a good flood, the material will become unusable.
- Linoleum. An inexpensive material with a large selection of colors, which is easy to clean and clean from dirt. For the bathroom, you should choose non-slip linoleum with a rough surface. Fungus and mold will not form on it if the seams are carefully sealed.
- Self-leveling floor. It is a modern material that is currently most often used in bathroom furnishings, as it is characterized by high waterproofing properties... It is often installed with a "warm floor" system. You can choose any drawing for it, even in 3d format. But the cost of self-leveling floors is quite high, and beginners do not manage to master the laying technology the first time.
- Bung. It is a natural, very warm and absolutely non-slippery material. It does not absorb moisture and foreign odors, does not grow moldy and does not rot. The disadvantages are that the choice of colors is limited.
If the "warm floor" technology was used during installation, then you can start using it only a week later after all layers have completely dried.
We solve the question: how to fill the floor in the bathroom
For pouring the floor, a traditional cement-sand or a special self-leveling mixture can be used, which includes polymers and other fillers to make the floor perfectly smooth without effort. The master himself chooses which material will be most convenient for him to work with.
Step-by-step instruction:
- First, preparation for work is performed: the height of the future screed is marked using a laser or ordinary water level.
- Beacons are installed along the perimeter at a distance of one meter from each other.
- A solution is prepared in compliance with the proportions indicated in the instructions. You can use both a concrete mixer and a special drill attachment or a construction mixer.
- The space is filled with a solution along the beacons. If traditional cement-sand mixture, then it should be leveled with a rule so that the floors are flooded evenly.
- The self-leveling mixture should be walked with a needle roller to remove air.
After the screed is completely dry, you can cover it with linoleum, laminate or tiles.
The screed is poured only at positive temperatures (optimally at + 25 ° C) and humidity no more than 70 - 80%. At the same time, there should be no drafts in the room.
It should be borne in mind that the bathroom floor should be at the lowest level in the apartment in order to avoid flooding, for example, when a pipe breaks. You can also raise the threshold slightly so that water does not overflow.
How to equip a bathroom floor in a private house with your own hands
In a private house, the bathroom floor has its own characteristics. The floor covering can be laid on both concrete and wooden base... In any case, you should follow several rules that are provided for private houses.
- In private houses without a basement, the bathroom floors should be insulated as much as possible or equipped with a "warm floor" system.
- A ladder can be made in the floor, connected to the sewer, through which accidentally spilled water will be removed. The floor, in this case, should be sloped.
- If the coating will be laid on a wooden base, then all rotten boards and beams should be replaced.
- So that, laid on a wooden floor, the tile does not bend under the weight of a person, it must be additionally strengthened.
- It is recommended to cover all wooden structural elements with an antiseptic to prevent mold from forming.
In a private house, when installing floors in the bathroom, you need to pay special attention to waterproofing.
Floor decoration in the bathroom (video)
Bathroom floors can take a long time to lay, but if done right they will last. long timewithout requiring repair. Beginners should consider all possible options for arranging bathroom floors, and then choose which method is best for them.
